Do you all think a 500x psu is enough for a GTX 1080? I have a 970 in my current PC and am looking to upgrade. Wondering if I should replace the psu as well but I don't really wanna spend the money.
So I wanted to ask those experienced with PC hardware. I want to get a gaming rig for my living room. I already have a nice little HTPC for Kodi use. It's an ITX setup with an i3 and 4GB of RAM and that's really about it. I've fiddled around with running PCSX2 and it seems like it just barely managed to run PS2 at default res. I want to get something better. It's easy to look at Haz's Builds and want the Enthusiast build, but as time goes on, I just don't think I can scrounge up the $1000-1500 for a build like that. There more I think about it, the more I think it might be overkill.
I don't have much experience with picking out good gaming PC hardware. So I'm asking you PC GAF, which of Haz's Builds would be right for me?
To reiterate what I'm looking for
-Primary for media streaming with Kodi (something that can handle my 1080p Blu-ray Rips flawlessly, my current HTPC does this great, but I notice a little bit of stutter here and there mostly in slow camera pans)
-Emulation (Something that could easily handle the likes of GameCube, Wii and PS2, I know from the various Emulation threads I've seen people with builds that allow them to have 8x Internal Res with resolutions way over 1080p, considering this is a HTPC hooked to a 1080p TV, I don't think I need that high of quality)
-Steam Gaming (I know a lot of people go to PC gaming because the graphics quality can be much higher than consoles, I just want something comparable to current consoles)
I'd appreciate any advice and recommendations
I need a budget PC ($600-700ish) and I think I'm just going to settle with an AMD RX 470 gpu since they are more available than the 480s that have become out of my price range.
Any suggestions for CPUs and motherboard if I go this route?
These are two possible builds for my friends PC, the current one they got quoted for, and one I put together. Is it worth the slight price bump?
Original Build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£210.00 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£106.95 @ BT Shop)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£76.28 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£59.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£41.99 @ Novatech)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card (£450.14 @ More Computers)
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox 5 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (£56.88 @ More Computers)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£79.99)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£79.98 @ Novatech)
Total: £1162.19
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-17 16:38 BST+0100
New Build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£293.88 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£31.49 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£127.43 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£74.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£72.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£56.28 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (£429.99 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox 5 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (£56.88 @ More Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£86.99 @ Novatech)
Total: £1230.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-17 16:38 BST+0100
I'm in the market for a water-cooled system and would love recommendations. I have a fairly high-end system (i7 6700k/Titan X) and want to keep it cool for more overclocking and also noise reduction.
I've hear that EK is one of the better options, and would like to know if there are other suggestions for a higher-end water cool system. I am looking for something that is not difficult to install and has a very low chance of leaking/required maintenance.
I wrote a series of questions awhile back here: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=213540153&postcount=7058
A quick recap of that, Strategy/RPG gamer, target games are Civ 6 and Witcher 3, either getting a 1440 21:9 144hz or a 4k 16:9 60hz monitor (can't deiced which) to replace old TN 1080 monitors.
In the meantime I have been considering a local builder in my province. They have a system similar to below for $2353, $300 extra
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($408.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($149.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($87.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Kingston HyperX Fury 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($95.80 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($616.32 @ shopRBC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($139.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($101.98 @ DirectCanada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.95 @ Vuugo)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($113.98 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $2022.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-17 12:02 EDT-0400
And there build here: https://otvtech.ca/catalogue?page=shop.browse&category_id=983
$300 extra is a bit too much extra but the big deal for me is that it would be water cooled, something I don't feel comfortable doing on my own. This would be my 1st build by myself. I would be willing to pay $200 for a store to do it, so in my mind the extra $100 is for a water cooled CPU. Is the extra money worth it?
I use a paintbrush, but I've tried canned air and found it to be pretty useless. I ended up taking my PC into a local shop and they blew the whole thing out with their powered air compressor in 2 seconds for free. It had never been so clean. Might be worth asking around.
So, I'm starting to part out my next 5-year build (I basically go big every five years and roll with that PC for the duration unless parts go bad) and I'm going with an i7-6700k processor. For the first time ever, I'm thinking about overclocking it a bit (probably up to 4.5 GHz) just to get the most out of my investment. That said, I'm unsure which cooler to buy. I've used a Hyper 212 for my current i5-2500k (no overclocked), but I don't know if that would provide enough cooling for the new chip. Does anyone have any recommendations? I don't have a preference as to air vs. water cooling incase that impacts anyone's recommendations.
If it matters at all, I initially bought a Noctua UH-12S, but I don't know if that will have enough oomph, so I am thinking about returning it and getting something more robust if you all don't think that would cut the mustard. Thanks in advance!
Go this route. The cooler is "all in one" and is as easy as installing a heatsink style cooler, this one should be more than enough for you. I also increased the RAM to 3000mhz, added the 850 EVO 250gb SSD and increased your PSU to 650W.
For a $60 heck yeah its worth it.
Can anyone recommend a 4K monitor for gaming. A couple different price points would be nice.
What specs should I be looking for in a monitor now? The one I'm using now is a Dell P2411Hb. Would like something similar.
Want to get a Nvidia 10 series graphics card and a 4K monitor. Not sure what the best route to go is. Thought the 1070s would have been priced alil lower than $400 so I'll probably be getting a 1060. Probably will do buying close to Christmas.
Thank you, that looks great! The water cooler good simple to install too. Now I could go for a NVIDIA 1080 card now. Would you suggest EVGA or someone else? I usually go EVGA for the warranty but it looks like its not as beyond industry standard as it use to be.
Also, do you think that system could run Witcher 3 on 4k very high with no AA? I'm thinking of getting either the Acer Predator XB271HK (the 4k one) or the Acer Predator X34 (the 21:9), can't choose.
This should do you well:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($198.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T2 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($11.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($104.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($43.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card ($239.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $963.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-17 11:57 EDT-0400
Now if you want to go ITX you'll need a different mobo. But it's going to be about the same price.
EDIT: Here's an ITX build for $900 without an HDD.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($198.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Shadow Rock Slim 67.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler ($59.07 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($129.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($43.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card ($239.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $906.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-17 12:17 EDT-0400
Thanks, that looks like it WILL suit me just fine. I'll probably look for a different case though since both cases seem to be made with the idea of not having an optical drive (yeah I probably wouldn't need it that much, but I'd rather have than not in that rare instance I need it)
Get a usb one, then you can have it when you need it but keep the case slick.
So I did my first overclocking ever. I overclocked my 5820k from 3,3 ghz (base) to 3,8 Ghz with 1.1 volt. Is that any good, should it be more or less volts?
I have the Noctua NH-D15 CPU cooler.
How long should I stress test with AIDA64?
60 degrees c is absolutely fine.
So I'm looking to build a new PC around the time when the 1080Ti is released. I'm thinking later this year or earlier next year. The thing is, it's going to be quite an expensive build as it will be my first new build in 8 years!
What could I realistically purchase today or within the next few months that won't feel outdated or rather won't be superseded for a while when it comes to the bulk of the PC purchase?
The 1080 and SSD. Though a 1080ti doesn't exist.
I know, which is why I'm waiting until it's released, whenever that is before I start building a new PC. I just wanted to know what I could get away with buying now and hold on to it until the 1080Ti comes out. That way I can spread out the costs.
I bought the Antec NINE HUNDRED BK Case in 2012 and just recently bought a 1080 to upgrade my setup.. Just realized that this case might be a little cramped and too small. Anyone have recommendations for a new case?
What would you recommend for the really fine dust that doesn't move even with a blast of compressed air?I'd recommend against using a paint brush. It could create static electricity.
Air compressors work great but you must MAKE SURE THERE IS NO INLINE OILER or you will be blowing lubricating oil all over your computer.
What would you recommend for the really fine dust that doesn't move even with a blast of compressed air?
What would you recommend for the really fine dust that doesn't move even with a blast of compressed air?
I'd recommend against using a paint brush. It could create static electricity.
Air compressors work great but you must MAKE SURE THERE IS NO INLINE OILER or you will be blowing lubricating oil all over your computer.
Did a test for over 20 min. Is this good? Also had Doom maxed out running in the background btw.
Been using a Hoover (vacuum) and an artist paint brush for over 5 years. Never broken anything.
How hard is it to just do a cpu + motherboard transplant without reinstalling Windows?
If you're talking at high settings, the Titan X Pascal is really the only card there at the moment and even that's only just there. Next big release I.e the 1080ti if such a card even exists is where you'd expect it gets there with a bit of a buffer.Are there any cards that can do 4K at 60? I'm guessing they will be very expensive cars. When do you think affordable cars will be able to output 4K at 60?
These days it should be simple, but it could cause performance issues.
I have 3 monitors hooked up to my GTX 960. I have my TV connected via DisplayPort, my main PC monitor hooked up via HDMI and another monitor hooked up via DVI.
My physical setup is.. TV - Main PC - 2nd Monitor. The main PC monitor is my Windows login and desktop.
When my PC boots up and I need to get into my BIOS, the BIOS will load on my TV. So, I would always need to turn on my TV, do the adjustments and then turn off. What can I change to tell my PC to show the BIOS on my main PC monitor so I dont need to always turn my TV on to work with the BIOS?
Thanks
I have 3 monitors hooked up to my GTX 960. I have my TV connected via DisplayPort, my main PC monitor hooked up via HDMI and another monitor hooked up via DVI.
My physical setup is.. TV - Main PC - 2nd Monitor. The main PC monitor is my Windows login and desktop.
When my PC boots up and I need to get into my BIOS, the BIOS will load on my TV. So, I would always need to turn on my TV, do the adjustments and then turn off. What can I change to tell my PC to show the BIOS on my main PC monitor so I dont need to always turn my TV on to work with the BIOS?
Thanks