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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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I just went through this. I'd been waiting on decent 480s to arrive but they've been getting delayed reepatedly. Unless you want one of the standard ones, they're only trickling in.
I thought the 1060 was overpriced with the 1070s so close to that price. You can get it like 40$ off or so by purchasing it at jet.com too.
CountAntonius
Member
I haven't. Whats the best way to check that?
petran79
Banned
For CPU use Process Explorer. It also displays any applications that may be redundant, yet could consume resources.
For GPU use GPU-Z, it displays temperature and power consumption.
Play a game in windowed mode. Watch if during pointer lags there is anything affecting both or if it is just the game.
Mister_Bubbles
Member
Is there anything particular I need to take into account when installing Windows 10 onto this m.2 ssd for the first boot? Samsung 850 Evo 250 Gb m.2 SSD
( Asus Z170-A motherboard)
Someone at work just mentioned to me that he'd heard m2 drives require "some bios fiddling" to get working. Anyone had any issues?
( Asus Z170-A motherboard)
Someone at work just mentioned to me that he'd heard m2 drives require "some bios fiddling" to get working. Anyone had any issues?
Dr.Horrible
Member
I think I have the same ssd in my new build and I had no issues whatsoever. I installed it via USB and was up and running without a hitch.
Edit - forgot mine is the 500gb, but the point still stands
No different to any other hard drive, but they sometimes disable SATA ports in you motherboard so double check where your other drives are plugged in so they're recognised too.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Try another cable if possible, it might be a HDCP handshake issue.
Mister_Bubbles
Member
Cool, thanks guys. Going back in for round 2 of the build tonight so will let you know how it goes!
Strafebogey
Member
Coming along nicely.
BRocknRolla
Member
Posting this to the new page since I only had one response question and no additional follow up:
Looking for advice on audio crackling. Occasionally, when I start my PC, the sound is has an overwhelming crackle. Whenever video is being played, there will be an awful crackle in the speakers, and often his will also be associated with really bad performance, like a stuttering video or low frame rate. (This can happen in a game, or it can happen just watching a video on Chrome.) If I plug in headphones, the audio crackle totally disappears.
Restarting the computer often fixes it, but sometimes it takes multiple restarts. Also, it probably only happens every 5th or 6th time I turn the computer on.
I'm on Windows 10 and just using whatever the standard sound drivers would be.
I know it isn't the TV as I've had it happen on multiple TVs, not the HDMI cord as I've had it happen with multiple HDMI cords, nor the GPU as I've now had it happen with two different GPUs.
Any ideas for what to do would be greatly appreciated. I've googled for literally hours on this topic, and can't find a solution.
Looking for advice on audio crackling. Occasionally, when I start my PC, the sound is has an overwhelming crackle. Whenever video is being played, there will be an awful crackle in the speakers, and often his will also be associated with really bad performance, like a stuttering video or low frame rate. (This can happen in a game, or it can happen just watching a video on Chrome.) If I plug in headphones, the audio crackle totally disappears.
Restarting the computer often fixes it, but sometimes it takes multiple restarts. Also, it probably only happens every 5th or 6th time I turn the computer on.
I'm on Windows 10 and just using whatever the standard sound drivers would be.
I know it isn't the TV as I've had it happen on multiple TVs, not the HDMI cord as I've had it happen with multiple HDMI cords, nor the GPU as I've now had it happen with two different GPUs.
Any ideas for what to do would be greatly appreciated. I've googled for literally hours on this topic, and can't find a solution.
Switch to another sound card hardware, onboard, video card, or just buy a usb sound adaptor (<$5).
BRocknRolla
Member
Is it driver issues (Based on your recommendation. I know you can't know for sure)? Is that why something like this would theoretically work? I'm certainly open to doing something with the sound hardware, but I want to understand what's likely causing the issue.
demosthenes
Member
I'm looking to get a new desk for my office in the house I'll be moving into in 2 weeks (first house, yay!).
Any suggestions. Right now I'm leaning towards going to an Ikea like an hour away and doing one of their build it desks where you buy the top, legs, etc. I'm looking for a large desk that offers a lot of space that isn't a solid piece of wood you see on at a lot of places like furniture stores or office depot. I'd prefer to get something off of like Amazon b/c Ikea shipping is insane. But I usually don't find a lot of large low profile desks.
This is pretty :3
Any suggestions. Right now I'm leaning towards going to an Ikea like an hour away and doing one of their build it desks where you buy the top, legs, etc. I'm looking for a large desk that offers a lot of space that isn't a solid piece of wood you see on at a lot of places like furniture stores or office depot. I'd prefer to get something off of like Amazon b/c Ikea shipping is insane. But I usually don't find a lot of large low profile desks.
This is pretty :3
HowardRoark
Member
Cross post from G-Sync thread:
Quick question: those of you that have an Acer Predator XB270HU/XB271HU, do you run the monitor in "overclocked" mode to get 165Hz max? I've been overclocking CPUs for a long time now, and I know with higher-than-stock voltages there is a potential longevity tradeoff (although minor in most cases). Does this monitor setting overvolt the built-in processor(s) of the display? Is there a longevity concern? I'm not sure my eyes can really tell the difference between 144Hz and 165Hz, so if there is, I'll just keep it disabled.
Quick question: those of you that have an Acer Predator XB270HU/XB271HU, do you run the monitor in "overclocked" mode to get 165Hz max? I've been overclocking CPUs for a long time now, and I know with higher-than-stock voltages there is a potential longevity tradeoff (although minor in most cases). Does this monitor setting overvolt the built-in processor(s) of the display? Is there a longevity concern? I'm not sure my eyes can really tell the difference between 144Hz and 165Hz, so if there is, I'll just keep it disabled.
grap3fruitman
Banned
Didn't fit, lol. Returned our second case. Third time's the charm. My brother's pretty comfortable building PCs now that we did it so much - pros and cons.
PC's finally finished and runs beautifully. The Vive and Tilt Brush are super fun. That feel when you find out Rust doesn't support SLI. ���� It's my brother's favorite game and the reason for the upgrade. Are there workarounds?
Final specs: Corsair 760T case, AX860 watt PSU, 32gb DDR4 Ram, 3 ring water cooler, 2x GTX 1070s, Core i7 6800k, Asus X99-A II mobo, Samsung 1tb ssd, Asus PG278Q monitor
We're having issues with the Ram; it's stock at 2133mhz, but should be 3000mhz and the bios has a profile with the exact timings and OCs the Ram accordingly. However, the computer occasionally fails to boot up and gives a "failed to OC" error. Thoughts?
(Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3000 (PC4-24000) C15 for DDR4 Systems, Red LED (CMU32GX4M2C3000C15R))
It's maybe software/driver, maybe software+hardware. It's just not something worth banging your head against the wall for, if $5 isn't too much for you. Besides, isolating the problem is the first step to solve the problem if you want to pursuit it.
I asked the same question when I got mine. Some say it's worth it and others don't. I ended up turning the OC mode off and just sticking with 144hz. It may just be a placebo effect but things seemed to look "better" and run smoother with it turned off.
EricGRIT09
Neo Member
Nope, don't need to do anything. Just plug it all back in.
No need to format.
Nope. No change needed at all, the only thing generally connected to a motherboard from a case is the fans.
BRocknRolla
Member
Agreed. At the end of the day, I just want the problem to go away, but I can't help but fear it's indicative of a larger problem (It probably isn't). Perhaps I'll get myself an inexpensive soundcard to see if that fixes the issue. Thanks for the suggestion!
Baron von Loathsome
Member
Hello, my laptop just crapped out on me, and while I'm gonna try to get it fixed, its likely that I'm gonna have to invest in a new computer. Under better circumstances, I'd be looking to build one, but I'm gonna need a computer ASAP, and I'm not gonna gave the time to build it. I'm not sure that there any local stores that build custom PCs around me (unless Best Buy does), and either way, I may have to resort to getting a prebuilt rig.
Can you guys provide any help in this scenario?
Can you guys provide any help in this scenario?
Terbinator
Member
Well, just ordered myself an Intel 600p NVMe drive - £160 for 512GB. A bit sloer than the Samsung drives for almost £100 cheaper isn't to be sniffed at.
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/512...d-3d-tlc-nand-read-1775mb-s-write-560mb-s-128
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/512...d-3d-tlc-nand-read-1775mb-s-write-560mb-s-128
HowardRoark
Member
That's what I've been doing too, thanks for the response!
Bloodember
Member
It only takes a few hours to build a computer. Take the time and build one.
My ASUS PG279Q (27" G-Sync) has a 165hz overclocked mode as well. I don't recommend it because it's a lot of power for almost nothing:
http://www.pcper.com/news/Graphics-...raw-Increased-Refresh-Rates-using-ASUS-PG279Q
I think that Dell is a very good choice for prebuilt desktops (and laptops for that matter).
Very curious about M.2. I couldn't find one locally here and went with a SSD for my new build, but I plan to buy two and run them in RAID (let's hope they drop their prices in Black Friday). The quadruple rise of speed is just ridiculous.
One thing I've been doing lately is putting some games on a ramdisk to see if it's worth it to get a M.2 for gaming. Haven't seen a game that benefited from it yet, although I haven't really tried a lot of games just yet.
Some images of my thermal paste application with arctic cooling mx4. The paste on the heatsink is taking off the current cooler to fit a new one. I had to twist the heatsink to get it to come off due to the suction - hence the odd pattern. Probably a tiny bit too much in this new application.
wot. i cant ever take that excuse seriously. you cant find an hour or two in your week where you arent doing anything? if you need a pc ASAP, then you wont find a pc faster than going into best buy and taking one home on the spot. where do you live? there might be a pc specialty store in your area that will order parts for you or even have parts on the shelf that you can pick out. more than likely theyll be able to assemble it for you for a small fee.
Logged in, still at $ 265, maybe they do some ip check or something since I'm not in the states.
Anyways thank you I followed the advise and got a rx 470 (an ASUS one at $199 on amazon) since the 480 and 1060 were too hard to find at a good price, I'll upgrade it later once things settle down and maybe some new better cards show up, I don't think I'll regret my purchase.
lostsupper
Banned
Needs more voltage to VCCIO and SA. Read up on overclocking for your board, CPU, and RAM.
lostsupper
Banned
Try Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut with the new cooler. The consistency is different from normal pastes and is designed to be spread. You can get a much more precise application with it.
To be honest, 1-2*c, I cant be bothered with it any more. I have a large tube of MX4 so don't feel spending another £10 on paste is worth it.
Pagusas
Elden Member
I know we always see the blob method used, but each and everytime I do new HSF installed, the credit card method/thin layer always produces better temps and during removal looks like the contact was far more even and correct.
Too many variables in my experience to make any real judgement. Wouldn't say my method was the best, not at all, but it works well enough. Its the only method I have used, but even from doing a remount, its hard to tell much difference.
I think this method is least hassle that's for sure. If you use a low pressure cooler like an waterblock, then spreading can be better. I was mounting a Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme, so pressure is not a problem.
Okay so I clean installed windows 10 on an SSD a while ago (I just plugged it into a random slot on the mobo), and I just unplugged the previous HDD I had plugged into my computer prior to the fresh install. If I wanted to plug it back in, will my computer boot from the HDD because it is still plugged into the higher slot on the mobo or will it automatically go to my SSD now?
If it will boot to my HDD, do I just need to put my SSD into slot one and it will work fine? Or do I need to boot, go into bios, and set the boot order? Just kind of want to get an idea of what I have to do before I plug anything in or mess with bios. Haven't really done this kind of stuff before.
If it will boot to my HDD, do I just need to put my SSD into slot one and it will work fine? Or do I need to boot, go into bios, and set the boot order? Just kind of want to get an idea of what I have to do before I plug anything in or mess with bios. Haven't really done this kind of stuff before.
Skyfireblaze
Member
The slot-connection doesn't matter on modern boards as far as booting goes, just connect the HDD and make sure your UEFI is set to boot from the SSD or the Windows Boot Loader on the SSD.
DeathGlobe
Member
Does the Intel Boxed Core I7-6700K come with some thermal paste already on it ? I already have a cooler just wondering if I needed paste
ajfoucault
Member
What would be the best motherboard brand to base my desktop PC build off of?
MSI, Gigabyte and Asus I assume
V1LÆM
Gold Member
nope. intel cpu's have the thermal paste pre applied on the stock coolers but the 6600/6700K don't come with coolers. you will need your own thermal paste.
i've had no problems with gigabyte/msi.
Bloodember
Member
Gigabyte, Asus, Asrock or MSI. They all make great boards.
DeathGlobe
Member
HarryDemeanor
Member
It comes with a small tube of thermal paste.
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