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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Mikeybycrikey

Neo Member
Figure it's time to retire my 2500k@4.6. Is there any reason not to buy an i7 6700k today to replace it? Usage is for vr/flat gaming. Will be paired to a 390. Just making sure there's no "CPU pascal" equivalent lurking around the corner. Cheers.
 

Joco

Member
Well nothing turned up on a full scan run in Kaspersky. Downloaded C++ redistributable 2015 since I was getting that error with Heaven. Does the restart after usually take a while? I've been stuck on the "Getting Windows ready, Don't turn off your computer" for a good 20 minutes now.
 
Well nothing turned up on a full scan run in Kaspersky. Downloaded C++ redistributable 2015 since I was getting that error with Heaven. Does the restart after usually take a while? I've been stuck on the "Getting Windows ready, Don't turn off your computer" for a good 20 minutes now.

Must've been downloading some serious updates in the background. Does anyone know whether any Windows 10 updates are VCRedist-dependent?
 

ISee

Member
Figure it's time to retire my 2500k@4.6. Is there any reason not to buy an i7 6700k today to replace it? Usage is for vr/flat gaming. Will be paired to a 390. Just making sure there's no "CPU pascal" equivalent lurking around the corner. Cheers.

No real need to wait for Kabylake as the improvements over skylake do not seem to be groundbreaking (+5% performance, nativ usb 3.1 instead of a thrid party chip, better iGPU).
But you could at least wait till tomorrow, maybe we'll learn some new stuff about AMDs Zen CPUs after their press conference because so far we know nothing of significance.

Well nothing turned up on a full scan run in Kaspersky. Downloaded C++ redistributable 2015 since I was getting that error with Heaven. Does the restart after usually take a while? I've been stuck on the "Getting Windows ready, Don't turn off your computer" for a good 20 minutes now.

That's long but it could happen. I'd let it run a bit longer, just in case.

Must've been downloading some serious updates in the background. Does anyone know whether any Windows 10 updates are VCRedist-dependent?

Sure why not. I remember a specific and automated windows 10 update for Microsoft Visual 2012 causing some trouble a couple of months ago.
 

Joco

Member
Well after the long wait it finally restarted but was still getting the missing .dll message. Read somewhere that installing the 2010 redistributable might work, and thankfully it did! So Heaven's up and running and least. Not sure yet if this will have solved those bsods (and I'm not holding my breath), but at least it's a start.
 

ISee

Member
Well after the long wait it finally restarted but was still getting the missing .dll message. Read somewhere that installing the 2010 redistributable might work, and thankfully it did! So Heaven's up and running and least. Not sure yet if this will have solved those bsods (and I'm not holding my breath), but at least it's a start.

Cool! Keep us informed.
 

AlanOC91

Member
Alright GAF, so I have some questions.

Upgrading over my 8350 clocked at 4.7ghz (with a 980ti) and I hope I made the right decision. I've done a lot of Website work for a college here so I got paid a nice bit extra this month and decided to splurge.

c6q8Guy.png


Some things I'm wondering.

1. Do I need to reinstall Windows 10? I actually haven't reinstalled my OS in about... 4 years? If not more. When I got an SSD I just used samsung magician to migrate it.

2. If I do need to reinstall Windows 10. Does it just activate? This is the free upgrade over Windows 7 and I'm not sure how that will work for me.

3. Any general tips of easily moving things to a new OS?

4. I have steam on my regular Windows drive but nearly 90% of my games on my other hard drives. Should this be ok?

Thanks guys!

I hope the upgrade will have been worth it.
 

Vuze

Member
Quick question. My EVGA SuperNova 650 G2 only came with (6+2)+6pin VGA power cables. I contacted EVGA and they told me it would power the 1080 FTW (2x8pin) just fine... but I sorta don't trust the support guy since he didn't know which cables came with my PSU in the first place :s

So, anyone been powering a 2x8pin card with a 8+6pin cable? I can't imagine how it would work without performance loss but then again I don't know much about electricity...

No idea why the 650 GS ships with (6+2)+(6+2) cables and mine doesn't? They are basically identical except for a 5$ premium mine has... PSUs man
On a closer look, the G2 apparently provides more power on all rails... which makes the cable decision even less understandable to me.

E: I'll just get two single 8pin cables for clean looks. Should be a good way to distribute load and look cleaner than installing the two 8+6 cables I have.
 

GlamFM

Banned
Alright guys!


Anybody want to help me?

Still need a monitor.

27"

Since I have a 1080 I assume 4k would be a good choice?

I´m running low on USB ports.

A Display with two USB port would be nice.

Something around 300€.


please?
 
Alright, PCGAF, now you've done it! I've been bitten by the building bug again thanks to you, so I've gone ahead and ordered the parts for my new build!

Case: Fractal Define R5
MB: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI
CPU: i5 6600K
Cooler: Cooler Master Nepton 140XL
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x8Gb DDR4-3000Mhz

Gonna scavenge the PSU (Corsair CS750M 80+ Gold), SSD (Samsung 500Gb 850 EVO), HDDs and GTX 980 from my current build, then sell the 980 and get a 1070 once they hit the 400€ mark.

Also going to refurbish my current build into a fast, silent workstation for my folks. It's already got an i7 875K cooled by a Corsair H55, 16Gb DDR3-1600, all inside a Cooler Master CM690-II gonna add:

Samsung 750 EVO 120Gb SSD
Asus GeForce 610 2Gb Silent (fanless)
Be Quiet Straight Power 10 80+ Gold 400 W PSU

Everything should be here by tomorrow, gonna put my upcoming week off of work to good use! Will post updates and pics/benchmarks of the final build if anyone's interested :)

Alright guys!


Anybody want to help me?

Still need a monitor.

27"

Since I have a 1080 I assume 4k would be a good choice?

I´m running low on USB ports.

A Display with two USB port would be nice.

Something around 300€.


please?

IIYAMA GB2888UHSU-B1 G-MASTER Gold Phoenix - 429€. Good luck finding anything cheaper :/
 
Because they're Broadwell-e and not Skylake.

Some things I'm wondering.

1. Do I need to reinstall Windows 10? I actually haven't reinstalled my OS in about... 4 years? If not more. When I got an SSD I just used samsung magician to migrate it.

2. If I do need to reinstall Windows 10. Does it just activate? This is the free upgrade over Windows 7 and I'm not sure how that will work for me.

3. Any general tips of easily moving things to a new OS?

4. I have steam on my regular Windows drive but nearly 90% of my games on my other hard drives. Should this be ok?

Thanks guys!

I hope the upgrade will have been worth it.

1. Yes, absolutely.

2. It depends. Was your Windows 7 licence a commercial one or an OEM? If the former you can probably install 10 directly and activate it with your 7 key (I think). If the latter you may be able to deactivate the licence on your current computer and activate it on the new one.

3. Backup your documents and stuff (including appdata) and move them to the new locations, that'll transfer over most of your game saves that are not synced with Steamcloud.

Get a batch program installer such as Ninite to save yourself a lot of time.

Sync your browsers to that all your plugins, passwords and cookies will be automatically ported over.

4. As long as you tell your new Steam install where your SteamLibrary folders are on the other hard drives there should be no problem. You'll have to reinstall the games but since the data is already there it should be quick.


E: apologies for the (almost-)double-post, I hit Submit instead of copy-pasting to my previous post.

E2: Don't know if anyone's seen the AMD RX 480 unveiling from last night, but if 2 8Gb 480s in CF fall somewhere between a 1070 and a 1080 for under 500€ I may just have a change of plans on my hands.
 

GlamFM

Banned
Alright, PCGAF, now you've done it! I've been bitten by the building bug again thanks to you, so I've gone ahead and ordered the parts for my new build!



Also going to refurbish my current build into a fast, silent workstation for my folks. It's already got an i7 875K cooled by a Corsair H55, 16Gb DDR3-1600, all inside a Cooler Master CM690-II gonna add:

Samsung 750 EVO 120Gb SSD
Asus GeForce 610 2Gb Silent (fanless)
Be Quiet Straight Power 10 80+ Gold 400 W PSU

Everything should be here by tomorrow, gonna put my upcoming week off of work to good use! Will post updates and pics/benchmarks of the final build if anyone's interested :)



IIYAMA GB2888UHSU-B1 G-MASTER Gold Phoenix - 429€. Good luck finding anything cheaper :/

Thanks. Now I´m questioning if I even need 4K of if I should focus on 144hz?
 

MThanded

I Was There! Official L Receiver 2/12/2016
Build went well. Took me about 2 hours and 30 minutes. Worked perfectly when hooking it up the first time. Was surprised because its been nearly at least 12 years since I built a PC.

The nzxt manta case was easy to work in and seems to have great build quality. It's still goofy that the case is so big but can only fit and ITX board. I did see a mod online where someone crammed a micro-atx board in there. So if I get the itch I can always go ahead and put the case under the knife in the future.

Still waiting on a video card. Planned to get a 1070 but maybe I should get one of these new Radeon's. In the meantime a friend will be letting me borrow one of his extra cards.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
not sure if I'm stuck. I removed my GPU when I sold it, but I can't seem to get back into the PC - I connected HDMI to the motherboard but the monitor says no signal. It is possible I disabled the onboard graphics when I plugged in the discrete GPU. Should it have reverted to enabled when I removed the GPU, or am I screwed?
 
not sure if I'm stuck. I removed my GPU when I sold it, but I can't seem to get back into the PC - I connected HDMI to the motherboard but the monitor says no signal. It is possible I disabled the onboard graphics when I plugged in the discrete GPU. Should it have reverted to enabled when I removed the GPU, or am I screwed?

A Clear Cmos would solve that issue I guess.
 

Cronen

Member
Question for you GAF. I'm still new to using a PC as a primary gaming machine, so please be kind!

I got a GTX 970 for Christmas and it's fantastic. Running the vast majority of my games at ultra at 1080p/60fps is a dream! (I also have a i5-3570 @ 3.4Ghz and 16GB RAM).

Last week I bought myself a new monitor, a 25 inch Asus monitor that is 1440p. It's beautiful!

I have now run in to a slight dilemma though. Whereas before I could run games like The Witcher 3 on ultra at 1080p/60fps, running the game at 1440p/60 means having to reduce settings down to medium-ish.

The other option I have is running the game at 1080p, but I have found that doing this at full screen makes things look a little...washed out? Running in a window works, and looks fine, but I would prefer having games at full screen!

Keeping the framerate as high as possible is important to me, but I also want to have the game look as good as possible! Is there a general consensus on what would be better - lower resolution with higher settings, or higher resolution with lower settings? Or is there a general middle ground?

Lastly, I chose not to install nVidia GeForce, but I hear that it can optimise/recommend settings for you? How accurate have you guys found this? Is it something worth looking in to using?

Thanks again!
 

drotahorror

Member
There are 8 ports. 2 x USB2.0, 4 x USB3.0, 2 x USB3.1

I can't really find any other motherboard with more than 8 USB ports.

EDIT: A couple of Gigabyte motherboards have 10-11 ports. But it seems that 8 is the norm.

EDIT2: Oh, you wrote -A. That one has 6 ports.

There are only 4 normal USB plugs for me to plug normal USB components into. They're a mix of 2.0 and 3.1 etc I'm not going to use correct terms for all the separate ones.


That one in yellow is likely a normal usb too, but on mine it looks like the IO shield may have some legs or something sticking out a bit or something I can't get anything into it.



So yea with the one I circled yellow in my other pic, I just can't get anything into it, something isn't right with that port, I'll take a picture of it when my camera charges. 5 ports either way, I've never heard of or used USB type C connectors so that's sort of useless to me as counting as #6 (for the time being).

So 5 usable for normal USB connectors. (4 since one of my ports seems blocked??)

I'm sorry for how big this post is and all the pictures :/

And sorry for not getting a great picture it's hard and I just fractured a rib today so getting down and taking a good pic is rough right now.



^^^^Anyone able to understand why I can't use that top right USB port? It's the one I circled earlier if you've been reading this post. All of my other ports are fine afaik.


Dang, I wish I didn't just read a bunch of newegg reviews. I'll just pretend I had goodluck, lots of reviews are shitting on the IO shield and USB ports.

Now I'm really leery of getting more Asus products ha (mainly because of customer support, looks like it's a complete nightmare).
 
Thanks. Now I´m questioning if I even need 4K of if I should focus on 144hz?

That's the question I've been asking myself. What's your preference between higher res and higher fps? Difficult one to answer. Would you be satisfied with 1440p@144Hz?

And even then, even a 1080 is probably not gonna give you 144fps at 2K for that long.
 
I've decided to buy a new PSU because I'm mostly sure I'm having PSU problems. I'm currently on some kind of Corsair 650w thing and for a long time I've had some low key problems in very intensive games like The Witcher 3. Lately I've had spontaneous restarts of my PC (as though there was a power loss temporarily) in both Doom and now Company of Heroes 2.

Although I think that is a PSU issue, I'm not totally sure. Either way in the future I'm planning to upgrade my PC to one with overclocking in mind, and I might as well start building now even if the problem turns out to be something else. I also thought I might replace the case as well.

Questions:

1) I was tentatively thinking of the Corsair Carbide 540 Air, however I did a quick google and apparently some people had problems with some fan installations and larger coolers. I would also have to import it with a minimum of $50 shipping, so I'm also eyeing this local Fractal R5. Is that a good enough case if I later want to put a new cooler on the CPU and such?

2) I don't know what PSU to go for. I was eyeing an 850w EVGA gold, which isn't super cheap but would leave me with a lot of potential for a beefy CPU. My current rig is a 980ti + 4670 (stock on both counts) so the 650w should be fine in theory, but I may jump to Pascal Titan + either an OC'd 6700k (or Kaby Lake equivalent) or perhaps a Broadwell / Haswell E hex core thing. Would 750W be enough for that, or would the 850 be safest?
 
1) I was tentatively thinking of the Corsair Carbide 540 Air, however I did a quick google and apparently some people had problems with some fan installations and larger coolers. I would also have to import it with a minimum of $50 shipping, so I'm also eyeing this local Fractal R5. Is that a good enough case if I later want to put a new cooler on the CPU and such?

I just bought the Define R5 for a build, and had to resort to a 140mm CPU cooler because it doesn't seem to accomodate 240/280mm coolers too well. Here's a video that illustrates this quite well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06LDs7G4l8

All that is if you're considering liquid cooling, of course.

I know its a little premature, but I am excited.. I know little about all this, but do AMD cards play nice with intel cpus? I have a i3 6100, and the new AMD 480 might be my next card if everything works out.

No problems whatsoever in my experience. I believe the vast majority of AMD graphics card owners run them on Intel CPUs.
 

thenexus6

Member
I know its a little premature, but I am excited.. I know little about all this, but do AMD cards play nice with intel cpus? I have a i3 6100, and the new AMD 480 might be my next card if everything works out.
 

karasu

Member
I'm looking to get into pic gaming. How are machines like the Maingear Drift for graphics and such?
 
I just bought the Define R5 for a build, and had to resort to a 140mm CPU cooler because it doesn't seem to accomodate 240/280mm coolers too well. Here's a video that illustrates this quite well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06LDs7G4l8

All that is if you're considering liquid cooling, of course.



No problems whatsoever in my experience. I believe the vast majority of AMD graphics card owners run them on Intel CPUs.

Can't watch a video currently. To clarify you mean a 120mm cooler like this would be fine?

I can live without the beefiest cooling solutions, although I will eventually start customizing it at some level for some OC headroom.
 

ISee

Member
Thanks. Now I´m questioning if I even need 4K of if I should focus on 144hz?


If its not too urgent I'd wait for new 1440p models with High Dynamic Range support, because your 1080 is still too slow for 4k/60. But that's just my personal preference and what I'm waiting for atm because a 1080/1080Ti + 1440p + HDR could be the perfect match.

Question for you GAF. I'm still new to using a PC as a primary gaming machine, so please be kind!

I got a GTX 970 for Christmas and it's fantastic. Running the vast majority of my games at ultra at 1080p/60fps is a dream! (I also have a i5-3570 @ 3.4Ghz and 16GB RAM).

Last week I bought myself a new monitor, a 25 inch Asus monitor that is 1440p. It's beautiful!

I have now run in to a slight dilemma though. Whereas before I could run games like The Witcher 3 on ultra at 1080p/60fps, running the game at 1440p/60 means having to reduce settings down to medium-ish.

The other option I have is running the game at 1080p, but I have found that doing this at full screen makes things look a little...washed out? Running in a window works, and looks fine, but I would prefer having games at full screen!

Keeping the framerate as high as possible is important to me, but I also want to have the game look as good as possible! Is there a general consensus on what would be better - lower resolution with higher settings, or higher resolution with lower settings? Or is there a general middle ground?

Lastly, I chose not to install nVidia GeForce, but I hear that it can optimise/recommend settings for you? How accurate have you guys found this? Is it something worth looking in to using?

Thanks again!

The Geforce Experience preset thing only gives you some value if you don't want to bother with in game graphical settings on your own.

Running the game @1080p on a 1440p monitor will indeed produce a blurry image because of the up-scaling that needs to be done and there is no general rule when it comes to this. Some people prefer graphical fidelity and are even willing to go down to 30 fps because of it, some prefer frame rate over everything else and don't care about image quality. I for example prefer to stick to my native resolution and then play around with the graphical settings till I get 60fps. That said I still don't care if the game drops ~5 fps in some special situations for a couple of seconds and other people prefer locked 60 all the time. But that's the beauty of PC gaming, you can make your own decisions based on your own preference and there is no rule or correct way to play something. Do whatever works best for you.

I'm looking to get into pic gaming. How are machines like the Maingear Drift for graphics and such?

Depends on the configuration, but their technical specifications are very vague and stuff like Intel Skylake 4 Core Processor and a Single Graphics Card tells nothing at all. This could be something like an i5 6500 paired with a gtx 950 but also an i7 6700k paired with a gtx 980Ti.
 

drotahorror

Member
I'm looking to get into pic gaming. How are machines like the Maingear Drift for graphics and such?

Never heard of them til now but they're insanely overpriced. They're just small(ish) form factor pre-built PC's. They use decent parts, SteamOS (no windows), and they're customizable so of course they can be good for graphics and such. If you want to spend 1.5-2x+ what it would cost normally they're good I guess.
 
Can't watch a video currently. To clarify you mean a 120mm cooler like this would be fine?

I can live without the beefiest cooling solutions, although I will eventually start customizing it at some level for some OC headroom.

Absolutely. But you can probably get an even better OC out of a 140mm cooler like the Cooler Master Nepton 140XL (will get back to you guys on that, since that's what's gonna be in my new build). The only downside is that you need to check whether your case can take a 140mm fan in the back. Most enthusiast cases do, it seems.

I'm looking to get into pic gaming. How are machines like the Maingear Drift for graphics and such?

Where do you live? There are quite a few websites which will let you configure a PC out of parts they have in stock (and will often check for compatibility between the parts you choose) and then build it for you for about 50 bucks extra. Much better and cheaper way to get a good PC than going for a pre-built one.

E: I just configured a PC on their site to get the closest possible setup to the computer I'm building. Save yourself $800-$1000 and have it built from individual parts, seriously.

E2: I've even read that some GAFers in this thread can build your computer for you if you order the parts.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Mini ITX build practicality question - fitting a noctua U12S and I've put the backplate on for now (noctua your packaging and instructions are amazing). Considering the limited space in a mini ITX case, what's the best plan of attack? Mount the motherboard and cables first, then pop the heat sink on, or mount the heat sink outside with more space, then figure out the cabling?

Also, my old motherboard only had a 4-pin power connector, but this one seems to want an 8-pin. Can I run it ok with the 4-pin already routed or should I use an 8-pin? I hope I have the cable if so. It's for use with a 6700k which I will want to overclock.
 
CPU: i7 5820k

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15

MOBO: MSI X99A SLI PLUS

Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB

Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB

GPU: Custom 1070 which supposedly draws 150 watts

im not sure what wattage i should choose for my PSU, was thinking of getting a 80+ Gold EVGA 750W but maybe this would be overkill?
 

Intru

Member
CPU: i7 5820k

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15

MOBO: MSI X99A SLI PLUS

Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB

Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB

GPU: Custom 1070 which supposedly draws 150 watts

im not sure what wattage i should choose for my PSU, was thinking of getting a 80+ Gold EVGA 750W but maybe this would be overkill?

Going overkill on the PSU isn't really a bad thing unless you're paying a bunch of extra $$ for it.

An overclocked 5820k uses a lot of power (almost 350 Watts at full load according to this source for the whole system + a 5820k clocked to 4.3GHz source I used).

You probably only need 550-600Watt to be on the safe side of things, but personally I would go with 750 for future upgrades.
 
I was looking at the SSD compatibility list for the GA-Z170X-UD5 TH motherboard...it only lists the 250GB Samsung 850 EVO

Does that mean the 500GB wouldn't work?
 
Going overkill on the PSU isn't really a bad thing unless you're paying a bunch of extra $$ for it.

An overclocked 5820k uses a lot of power (almost 350 Watts at full load according to this source for the whole system + a 5820k clocked to 4.3GHz source I used).

You probably only need 550-600Watt to be on the safe side of things, but personally I would go with 750 for future upgrades.

hmm..

im not sure what to think because i heard somewhere that PSUs that are overkill for a system may draw excessive power

it would be good to know that this isnt true
 
I was looking at the SSD compatibility list for the GA-Z170X-UD5 TH motherboard...it only lists the 250GB Samsung 850 EVO

Does that mean the 500GB wouldn't work?

Pretty much every SSD should work. It probably means that the 250gb evo is the only SSD they bothered to test.
 
So I was playing Witcher 3, and suddenly the game frooze and it sounded like a sound effect just stuttered forever. Then the screen became completely red, just a solid color, for a good ten seconds and then the computer shut off.

No error message or anything.

Should I be worried?
 
Maybe I'll ask here. Let me know if this isn't acceptable and I'll edit it!

I haven't sold a PC in a long time, but I have a computer just hanging out. It's an Alienware Aurora with an i7 920 OC'd to 3.9GHz. GTX 970, 10GB DDR3. No hard drive no accessories? What kind of price, was thinking like $300? Want to give it to someone who can use it. It can play pretty much everything. I threw a lot at it when testing it. I feel like $300 is a great price?
 

TheMink

Member
Have a couple questions, my friend needs a half sized GPU for a little gaming rig he's bulding and he is brand new to PC gaming and I'm not much more of a valuable resource. Are prices expected to drop very soon for some of the currently available cards?

Second, for myself I was thinking about getting a 1080 to upgrade my 970 but I plan on waiting. Is there a good amount of time to wait to potentially get it cheaper? Or is there sort of a complex where waiting too long ends up really just being an inefficient purchase?

Sorry for the convoluted question.
 
So I was playing Witcher 3, and suddenly the game frooze and it sounded like a sound effect just stuttered forever. Then the screen became completely red, just a solid color, for a good ten seconds and then the computer shut off.

No error message or anything.

Should I be worried?
Maybe. Are you overclocking? Play again and keep an eye on your cpu and gpu temperatures. Also maybe run memtest86 to rule out a memory issue.

It may also be a gpu driver issue, if you've recently updated them.
 
Maybe. Are you overclocking? Play again and keep an eye on your cpu and gpu temperatures. Also maybe run memtest86 to rule out a memory issue.

It may also be a gpu driver issue, if you've recently updated them.

I tried overclocking earlier in this thread, but it grew beyond my comprehension of BIOS stuff, so I changed everything back to default.

Running latest AMD drivers for the 7970 card, but I'll keep an eye out on temperatures.

Does any programs allow me to look at temperatures/data before the crash, or would I loose everything in such a hard crash situation?
 

Vuze

Member
So I was playing Witcher 3, and suddenly the game frooze and it sounded like a sound effect just stuttered forever. Then the screen became completely red, just a solid color, for a good ten seconds and then the computer shut off.

No error message or anything.

Should I be worried?
Additionally to what opticalmace said, this might also be a PSU issue.

(Yes, I realize I sound obsessed over PSUs to all thread regulars but... I had similar hardfreezes and other BSODs until I bought and installed a new quality PSU lol)
 

OkayRene

Member
I'm seeing a lot of talk about the new Pascal cards and power phases. Do power phases impact overclockability?
 
Additionally to what opticalmace said, this might also be a PSU issue.

(Yes, I realize I sound obsessed over PSUs to all thread regulars but... I had similar hardfreezes and other BSODs until I bought and installed a new quality PSU lol)

First issue I had with Witcher 3 after 60 hours of gameplay, so it might be that the PSU suddenly became faulty. My unit is:

OCZ ModXStream Pro 600w Silent SLI Ready ATX2 Modular Power Supply


And I don't know whether that is good or bad, it was on the recommended build list here on Gaf a few years ago, but it could probably die at some point?



In terms of CPU/GPU temperatures, the CPU was around 54 celcious and the GPU around 64 C after fifteen minutes of gameplay, and I guess that is within acceptable range?
 

Vuze

Member
First issue I had with Witcher 3 after 60 hours of gameplay, so it might be that the PSU suddenly became faulty. My unit is:

OCZ ModXStream Pro 600w Silent SLI Ready ATX2 Modular Power Supply


And I don't know whether that is good or bad, it was on the recommended build list here on Gaf a few years ago, but it could probably die at some point?



In terms of CPU/GPU temperatures, the CPU was around 54 celcious and the GPU around 64 C after fifteen minutes of gameplay, and I guess that is within acceptable range?
Yeah, temps are fine. Just keep an eye out for further hard freezes, could've been a one time thing.
 

JonCha

Member
Seems like that for those building a new PC that the new AMD cards aren't worth it despite their price, mainly because the 1070 seems to outclass it heavily and has greater longevity (I have a 2560x1440 monitor). That low price from AMD is really, really nice though.
 

Rufus

Member
Seems like that for those building a new PC that the new AMD cards aren't worth it despite their price, mainly because the 1070 seems to outclass it heavily and has greater longevity (I have a 2560x1440 monitor). That low price from AMD is really, really nice though.

Excellent for 1080poors like me. ¦3
 

AssassiN

got the wrong hit
Alright GAF, so I have some questions.

Upgrading over my 8350 clocked at 4.7ghz (with a 980ti) and I hope I made the right decision. I've done a lot of Website work for a college here so I got paid a nice bit extra this month and decided to splurge.

c6q8Guy.png


Some things I'm wondering.

1. Do I need to reinstall Windows 10? I actually haven't reinstalled my OS in about... 4 years? If not more. When I got an SSD I just used samsung magician to migrate it.

2. If I do need to reinstall Windows 10. Does it just activate? This is the free upgrade over Windows 7 and I'm not sure how that will work for me.

3. Any general tips of easily moving things to a new OS?

4. I have steam on my regular Windows drive but nearly 90% of my games on my other hard drives. Should this be ok?

Thanks guys!

I hope the upgrade will have been worth it.

1 - No you don't, Windows should detect things and be fine (at least it did for me 2 weeks ago). It'll deactivate, but you can just re activate it by entering your CD Key (if you took advantage of the free upgrade offer then enter the key of the windows you upgraded from).

2 - See 1

4 - Yes.

Just one thing i've noticed, have you ordered a Heatsink - the CPU's don't come with them anymore and i made the same mistake!
 

dukie85

Member
Seems like that for those building a new PC that the new AMD cards aren't worth it despite their price, mainly because the 1070 seems to outclass it heavily and has greater longevity (I have a 2560x1440 monitor). That low price from AMD is really, really nice though.

You seem to think everybody wants/can afford those cards. I'm perfectly fine with a 480 at this point.
 

JonCha

Member
You seem to think everybody wants/can afford those cards. I'm perfectly fine with a 480 at this point.

Maybe I was a little heavy handed. I think the point still stands though: that if you can afford the Nvidia cards and want the best performance then they're the way to go.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
1 - No you don't, Windows should detect things and be fine (at least it did for me 2 weeks ago). It'll deactivate, but you can just re activate it by entering your CD Key (if you took advantage of the free upgrade offer then enter the key of the windows you upgraded from).

2 - See 1

4 - Yes.

Just one thing i've noticed, have you ordered a Heatsink - the CPU's don't come with them anymore and i made the same mistake!


I don't know if I have my windows key - was preinstalled on my PC as I bought prebuilt (am now upgrading motherboard/CPU/Ram
 
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