I'm new to (sort of) following the cycle of card releases ... I'm interested to see the benchmarks for the 480 on the 1440p monitors. If they're relatively close to 60 then I'd be a fool not to go for that card, but that seems unlikely.
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I'm new to (sort of) following the cycle of card releases ... I'm interested to see the benchmarks for the 480 on the 1440p monitors. If they're relatively close to 60 then I'd be a fool not to go for that card, but that seems unlikely.
It isn't true, just a silly rumour.
triplestation
Member
ISee
Member
Depends on your GPU.
Cramoss
Member
Currently using a 280X but planning to get RX 480 or 1070 at most (kinda doubt it tho). I game on 1080p.
roadrunn3r
Member
Nope you are fine.
The 480 is most certainly a 1080p card. Sure some older/lighter games might work well at 1440p but that's not what the card is made for.
hey everyone. i posted in i think the last thread that my video card's been having issues lately with the driver crashing fairly often while i'm in-game and sometimes while surfing the internet. it's an MSI GTX 970 and it's OC'd a bit but nothing crazy. no abnormal temps or load or anything like that, it just crashes every now and then. i've tried playing with default clock speeds, i've updated my drivers and everything and still crashes. should i just RMA it at this point? does MSI have decent customer service?
roadrunn3r
Member
Is it a system hard crash or just a game crash? I would try a different GPU on that system if you can. (maybe borrow one from a friend or something) before trying to RMA it. Try a memtest also just to be safe.
Need some help guys. Just ordered all my parts for my new build (starting completely fresh spent 2500). I have this four year old pc that I'm giving to a buddy of mine for a nice discount (400). Do you guys have any tips on how I should prep the old computer for sale? Reformatting the hardrive to remove all my information the only thing I have to do or are there other things I need or should do? Giving it to him as is and he knows that he will have to buy Windows if I do reformat the hard drive
opticalmace
Member
Are you going to reuse the windows license for yourself?
Other than wiping the drive (perhaps consider using a specialty program to empty it out if you have anything sensitive on it), I would probably clean/tidy up the interior some. What are the specs?
anexanhume
Member
Do a courtesy air spray on the inside of the chassis.
Yeah the wife already moved all of her pics and stuff off the comp to our laptop. The interior is cleaned , just did it this morning looks great actually . Got a sapphire 7970 card in it with a 15 3770k . It's for his lil brother as he has a sli Titan setup for himself already . the Windows key I used for this old comp was a free student one which I don't have access to anymore . I bought myself Windows 10 already with this new build .
I plan to build soon and could use some advice on the fan setup.
I'll be using a Enthoo Primo case with a Asus x99-Deluxe II MB, and a Phanteks PH-TC14PE for my CPU cooler. As for fan placement, I'm planning to do 3x top intake, 2x bottom intake, 2x front intake, and 1x top rear exhaust. The front and bottom both have filters. Thoughts?
Secondly, I'm uncertain as to the best way to control the fans. The case comes with a PWM hub, that can supposedly handle up to 11 fans. The MB also comes with a fan extension card with 3 headers. Then of course the headers on the MB itself. I've heard mixed reports on the Phanteks PWM hub. Can anyone give first-hand advice on it? Is it safe to use that many fans on the PWM hub without risk of blowing out your header? I'll be using 8 case fans (3 pin), and 2 (4 pin) on the CPU cooler. How would you set it up?
Thanks.
I'll be using a Enthoo Primo case with a Asus x99-Deluxe II MB, and a Phanteks PH-TC14PE for my CPU cooler. As for fan placement, I'm planning to do 3x top intake, 2x bottom intake, 2x front intake, and 1x top rear exhaust. The front and bottom both have filters. Thoughts?
Secondly, I'm uncertain as to the best way to control the fans. The case comes with a PWM hub, that can supposedly handle up to 11 fans. The MB also comes with a fan extension card with 3 headers. Then of course the headers on the MB itself. I've heard mixed reports on the Phanteks PWM hub. Can anyone give first-hand advice on it? Is it safe to use that many fans on the PWM hub without risk of blowing out your header? I'll be using 8 case fans (3 pin), and 2 (4 pin) on the CPU cooler. How would you set it up?
Thanks.
My friend has an old Cooler Master 212 that he got for an LGA 1151 socket CPU. He got a new CPU that's LGA 2011 V3 and a new motherboard and the bracket for the heat sink doesn't seem to fit. The bracket doesn't screw down far enough which allows the heat sink to shift in a circular motion.
Has anyone ever had this issue or something like it. Could it be that the old parts are stripped or damaged in some way and that's why the bracket doesn't fit properly, or are there possibly new parts to the cooler and he should get a new one?
Has anyone ever had this issue or something like it. Could it be that the old parts are stripped or damaged in some way and that's why the bracket doesn't fit properly, or are there possibly new parts to the cooler and he should get a new one?
TheExecutive
Member
Ok so finally got my PC up and functioning again and am looking to upgrade my rig... The 1070 is just too delicious to pass up. However I have a question about my CPU.
My motherboard is a P8Z68-V. I have a i5 2600k. I have a cooler master attached to it and it has been a good CPU. Do I need to upgrade? Using it for just gaming. I believe the socket is a 1155 on the motherboard and would rather not upgrade that either. So should I upgrade and if so to what?
Thanks in advance!
My motherboard is a P8Z68-V. I have a i5 2600k. I have a cooler master attached to it and it has been a good CPU. Do I need to upgrade? Using it for just gaming. I believe the socket is a 1155 on the motherboard and would rather not upgrade that either. So should I upgrade and if so to what?
Thanks in advance!
it seems to just be a game crash, but it's on everything i play it seems. and the system freezes up for maybe 1-2 seconds before the game crashes and shows the driver crash message. i'd try another GPU but i don't have any others unfortunately
You're already at the second highest cpu for the socket. It might be worth going to a 3770k for the pcie 3.0 but the haven't been any benches testing how the cards perform on the older sockets yet.
I say you'll still be fine with it for another year or two. Especially if you're over clocked. What gpu do you have now?
TheExecutive
Member
Have you tried using the default driver for that GPU? Try that first. If that doesn't work update the driver to where it was then remove the OC. Try again. If that doesn't work then... hmm.
TheExecutive
Member
Thanks for the reply. I have a 570. My Rig has been out of commission for a while because of a bad disk and didn't feel like getting a new one. Then upgraded to Windows 10 and had all kinds of issues until I turned off hardware acceleration in my office 2016 suite... Which still puzzles me.
I knew when I bought that motherboard that I should have bought a different one but it's been good to me for 4 years.
roadrunn3r
Member
It looks like a software/driver issue to me. I could be wrong and the card could be defective but it doesn't hurt to try:
- roll back to an old stable driver (like 362 for nvidia for example)
- launch a command prompt and do a "sfc /scannow" to check for corrupted system files.
- run a memtest
- remove the graphics card and connect your monitor to the integrated Intel (check if the system is still unstable which proves the graphics card is not the issue)
Nothing wrong with your motherboard. You bought the best there was when you bought it.
TheExecutive
Member
Not bad ideas for overall system issues but if it is just happening when playing games it's a tough sell for anything other than the software or hardware on the GPU. I would still try removing any OC that is on the card after rolling back to a stable version.
Wondering if it crashes during a benchmark test if it doesn't it very well could be the OC.
TheExecutive
Member
What are the new socket configurations out there?
roadrunn3r
Member
He said it's happening also when he's surfing the internet. I had a similar issue once after a series of blackouts which messed my ssd and caused similar system instability to what he is describing. SFC detected corrupted files which once I repaired, solved it completely.
TheExecutive
Member
Ahh missed that. Yeah gotta do a mem test and file test then.
2011/12 - Socket 1155. Sandy Bridge (2xxx) and Ivy Bridge (3xxx) Chipsets 6 and 7. Overclockable ones were P67, Z68, Z77.
2013/14 - Socket 1150. Haswell (4xxx), Devils Canyon (4x9x) and Broadwell (5xxx). Chipsets 8 and 9. Overclockable ones were Z87, Z97.
2015/16 and Current - Socket 1151. Skylake (6xxx). Upcoming is Kaby Lake. It may not be compatible with current things. Remains to be seen. Saw the switch from DDR3 to DDR4. Overclockable chipset is the Z170.
There is also the Socket 2011 and 2011V3 that are Enthusiast class processors. They are i7s and Xeons only.
If you were to upgrade now, you'd want a 6600K or a 6700K with a Z170 motherboard and some decent speed DDR4.
That said, I'm sure your 2600K will be fine for a bit yet. The new stuff is only about 25% faster all told.
blitzkrieg184
Neo Member
So I just ordered my parts for my first build (other than a GPU, Going to wait for a RX 480) and I'm super excited to get that going but also nervous at the same time. But I'm having some difficulties understanding the process behind booting and installing a windows 10 OS. Does someone know of a good step by step guide that I can use? Also what else would I need to install before my PC will be ready to use? Drivers (whatever those are)? Also does anyone know where to buy a cheap windows 10 install in Canada? On USB please! Greatly appreciated! 
LostMyNarbles
Member
Can anyone recommend with a product link an LGA 1155 motherboard? I'm trying to look for a suitable replacement to my brother's broken motherboard, but I can't find anything. I think he has a Z series motherboard and it is paired with an i5-2500k and a GTX 570. The only MB's I can find are H61's and from what I can gather they are low-end which is probably why they are so cheap.
I don't know what to get because I cannot find any Z ones online besides refurbished ones which still cost a lot and it feels stupid to be paying $140+ for an older motherboard at this time.
I don't know what to get because I cannot find any Z ones online besides refurbished ones which still cost a lot and it feels stupid to be paying $140+ for an older motherboard at this time.
That's two generations ago. You aren't going to find anything.
LostMyNarbles
Member
Yeah I feared that, but I don't know if he wants to be spending $300+ for a Skylake combo. Guess there might not be any other option.
Don't forget new ram...
ISee
Member
Definitely worth upgrading then.
Inkvoterad
Member
So i'm planning to get a new CPU and i've been looking at Intel Core i5 6600K 3,5GHz. My current GPU is a 290 and feels fine since i'm aiming for 1080p outside of older games and the like. My cpu however is a shitty amd one from like 2012 and has to be the noisiest fucking thing ever. But i'm finally able to switch it out, so no more bottlenecks (thank god).
But yeah, the Intel Core i5 6600K seems pretty stable for it's price from what i've seen. Apparently there's a slightly cheaper version that has almost identical benchmarks? Haven't seen it in any of the stores i can buy from though.
But yeah, just wondering if anyone else got that CPU and if it was a good buy.
But yeah, the Intel Core i5 6600K seems pretty stable for it's price from what i've seen. Apparently there's a slightly cheaper version that has almost identical benchmarks? Haven't seen it in any of the stores i can buy from though.
But yeah, just wondering if anyone else got that CPU and if it was a good buy.
You're going to have to scour eBay. Even my local Micro Center only ever had one or two LGA 1155 motherboards in stock and the Z77 one they had was always a refurb. Now I don't even think they stock them anymore.
I just finished setting up my new rig using that fantastic M.2 NVE connection and 5 second boot...
...That was until for some reason I lost the 5 second boot and it became 10-20seconds instead, and for some reason I could'nt determin what was causing it. For starters, the BIOS seems to read the drive fine, as the "black screen" only lasts for about a second and a half, but its the "Signing In" screen that has gotten a terrible amount of loadtime increasin from what seemed to be a split second to a whole 10 seconds.
I tried doing some diagnostics on it but so far, none of the startup drivers seem to be heavily influencing it. My big culprit that I perhaps could trace it to is the SecuROM that came with one of the games when I first activated it (Dark Void)., but I don't recall bootup times to be affected by its installation, at least initially...
I'm not sure if this is the right place to get tech support regarding this issue but I've tried other forums and sites as well to no avail regarding my dillema.
Edit: I'm using Windows 10 Pro in UEIF mode btw.
...That was until for some reason I lost the 5 second boot and it became 10-20seconds instead, and for some reason I could'nt determin what was causing it. For starters, the BIOS seems to read the drive fine, as the "black screen" only lasts for about a second and a half, but its the "Signing In" screen that has gotten a terrible amount of loadtime increasin from what seemed to be a split second to a whole 10 seconds.
I tried doing some diagnostics on it but so far, none of the startup drivers seem to be heavily influencing it. My big culprit that I perhaps could trace it to is the SecuROM that came with one of the games when I first activated it (Dark Void)., but I don't recall bootup times to be affected by its installation, at least initially...
I'm not sure if this is the right place to get tech support regarding this issue but I've tried other forums and sites as well to no avail regarding my dillema.
Edit: I'm using Windows 10 Pro in UEIF mode btw.
So my simple motherboard swap won't be quite so simple. Had hoped I would be able to just drop it in, but little things like the sata ports being in a different location means I have to unbundle the spaghetti of cables tucked away. Don't know if I'll get away with a few adjustments or I'll have to pull the PSU out and start over (mini ITX so not much room)
Can someone tell me if my PSU should have an 8 pin ATX power connector on it? My previous motherboard only used 4 so I only have a 4 pin cable route into the case
Can someone tell me if my PSU should have an 8 pin ATX power connector on it? My previous motherboard only used 4 so I only have a 4 pin cable route into the case
Model number would help.
Corsair gs600. Manual says
I'm hoping 'detatch' means 'split' and there is the other half of that cable tucked away somewhere.
Did you add the HDD later on? With each HDD, it greatly increase Windows startup time.
My wife's built Intel Core I3-4160 with a Samsung 830 SSD has a 5 sec bootup. It's 3-4x faster than my Intel 5930K@4.5GHz with a M.2 Samsung SM951, but the 3 HDDs holds it back. Disconnect the HDD and you will see the 5 sec boot again.
Are larger fans always preferred to smaller ones? Replacing my h60 with a noctua U12S so I need a rear case fan. I could use the stock bitfenix 120mm fan which I have lying around, or I could buy a 120/140mm noctua for lower noise and/or better exhaust performance. It will be my only exhaust fan - I have a spectre 230mm front fan as intake and the GPU will draw air in for the side panel. Top panel is empty but air can escape as it has a mesh top panel
Thanks so much! Appreciate it! That Ninite program looks amazing! Defo gonna use that.
My Win 7 was bought on release from Amazon so you reckon my Win 7 key would just work on a fresh Win 10 install?
Hmm so I really shouldn't need to reinstall windows on a new motherboard installation? That would be awesome but I keep reading that apparently you have to do it. Although some are saying it only matters if going from IDE to ACHI.
I have a h100i watercooler on my current CPU so I'm going to use that one!
Whoa additional HDDs prolong boot time!? Even if the OS is on an SSD? That explains why my friends OS boots faster than mine..
I have 3 HDDs hanging off my system for game storage. That's rather annoying. I used to have 4 but one was replaced with another SSD.
Thanks so much! Appreciate it! That Ninite program looks amazing! Defo gonna use that.
My Win 7 was bought on release from Amazon so you reckon my Win 7 key would just work on a fresh Win 10 install?
Hmm so I really shouldn't need to reinstall windows on a new motherboard installation? That would be awesome but I keep reading that apparently you have to do it. Although some are saying it only matters if going from IDE to ACHI.
I have a h100i watercooler on my current CPU so I'm going to use that one!
IDE to AHCI can be fixed with a registry edit.
W10 handles new hardware pretty well. So shouldn't need a reinstall.
I'm on ACHI already anyway but by the sounds of it I should be good.
Phew! Less work for me!
I have a small bit of a work environment set up on PC. The thoughts of reinstalling all of it.... ugh.
I'll back it all up just incase though. Cheers!
No. The HDD and SSD was there from the very beginning. I also didn't have this issue until much later when I installed...something.
I just ran under Safe Mode and noticed how the incredible lightning quick boot returned! But is this a driver issue, or is Windows loading a service thats causing all these delays? I couldn't get a boot log up.
SecuROM is driver based iirc.
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