chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I'd recommend a nice 470 over the reference 480. Or spend $20 or so more for a better 480.
Edit: I see you agree and changed it lol
Edit: I see you agree and changed it lol
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
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Yeah I saw the light! I got the reference 480 when it dropped and it's a great card. But for the performance vs price the 470 seems to have it beat.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
So when changing modular power supplies is it prudent to swap out the cables too? I'm moving from a Silverstone to a Corsair and was wondering if like, the pinouts are different or anything? It should would be nice not to have to rewire everything.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I think different companies/PSUs have different connectors. If you went with a different PSU from the same company they may be compatible.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
As far as I can see the 8pin cpu and pcie cables are identical. I'm gonna swap them I guess.
GetDigitized
Member
Okay so I'm still debating on whether to sell my 390x, it wasnt great to run in the summer & I don't game on pc enough (only pc exclusives, mmos(I subscribe for like 2months a year to ffxv) or xbox/pc games), but my pc is on for like 6-9 hours when I'm in my room/awake. So, I wanted your opinion, should I sidegrade to the 1060 6gb or 480 8gb for the lower temps, noise, electricity consumption (I don't know much about this, I assume the newer cards draw less on idle) & renewed warranty or stay with my 390x. I'll sell my 390x for now the price of the other 2 cards(i got it cheap so I'm not technically making a profit on it). I game at 1080p on a dual monitor setup, I don't think freesync is worth it at 60hz, but I haven't experienced it so that may just be ignorance speaking. Enlighten me! Thanks!
demosthenes
Member
This never got answered, anyone?
How long does it usually take to arrive?
Also is it better to have 4 rams of 8gb for 32gb or 2 rams of 16 for 32gb? Is there any benefit to either?
What does it mean when a mb says Dual DDR4 3733 (oc) support? That all ram slots can hit that speed if i buy capable ram?
Nostremitus
Member
This isn't really a mobile thread, I'm not sure how many people here are tablet experts. PC's have different processors, operating systems, and well, pretty much everything is different compared to an Android device.
I don't think it would be an issue considering phones typically don't have problems with what you plan to use the tablet for. That said, I don't know anything about the tablets you listed, either.
Maybe try this thread?
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=962212&page=6
Kudo
Member
You said monitor doesn't have the be counted for the total so it goes little over, but I tried to keep it in budget:
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/6fr8QV
First things to upgrade if your budget allows it i5 to i7, Seagate to WD Black (Seagate is not known for long life and backupping takes time) and GTX 1060 to what you may need, 1060 should be enough for FullHD gaming.
Also I'd like to note that the monitor is 16:10 (1920x1200) which is nice for productivity, but if gaming is your main use for the machine then switch it to little cheaper Dell U2414H.
Iorv3th
Member
Samsung tab is running touchwiz ui. You would have to root it to get rid of that. Shield comes with stock android and has more updates.
Shield is a lot better tablet for 30$ especially if you ever did 'want more' out of it.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
This cooler is on par with the 212 and cheaper/no rebate.
Bumping to a 1070 would be a much bigger upgrade than 6600K->6700K for most of the uses he mentioned. Especially for VR.
Kudo
Member
Good idea to switch to that then.
i7 would be nice for development use (depending how CPU intensive his tools are), but GTX 1070 is definitely bigger upgrade.
Probably could get cheaper mobo and switch to GTX 1070, I chose Z170-A as that has good reputation and don't want to recommend something that could be bad, but if someone knows good budget Skylake motherboard.
nightmare-slain
Banned
A GTX 1060 sounds like what you're looking for. My old card was an R9 290 and I have a GTX 1070 now. What a difference! I've had my 1070 for about 3 months now and was actually just checking my electricity usage yesterday and compared to the same 3 last year I have used a good amount less. The 290 had a TDP of 300W and the 1070 has 150W. Also, my new PC has an overclocked i7 in it so even with that I'm still saving a good chunk of money with my 1070.
The 1060 uses less than a 1070 of course (120W) but the 390X also uses less than a 290 (275W). I saved 150W and you'd save 155W by changing GPU. In comparison i think an RX 480 is rated at 150W.
My 290 was running incredibly hot. If a game stayed under 80C then I'd be happy but before I built my new PC it could reach temps of 95C! Fans were running constantly and very loud as you could imagine. My 1070 has never went over 70C and fans never go over 50% in benchmark stress testing. In game it usually sits at 60-65C with 30-44% fan speed. If the card is under 60C then the fans don't spin at all. The gpu is very quiet. I can do some gaming without the fans kicking in at all. Sometimes they will spin up for a bit to keep temps in check then cut off. The fans aren't audible until about 60-70% even if they are spinning up and down but of course that'll depend on your sensitivity to noise and your case. If they do need to run constantly then it's still really quiet.
TL;DR: get a 1060. Way cooler/quieter and uses less power.
My most recent psu (different brand) had the same connectors. I'd not bother swapping unless it's easy to do.
I need some help troubleshooting my PC. I just got a 1060, based my choice on this thread, and ever since my PC would randomly start restarting.
The only issue I had during the install is that the card didnt fit as snugly as I maybe would have hoped. This can be just in my head though.
Is there anything I can check? Temps, anything at all?
EDIT : Im running a completely fresh install of Win 10 on an SSD if that's pertinant
The only issue I had during the install is that the card didnt fit as snugly as I maybe would have hoped. This can be just in my head though.
Is there anything I can check? Temps, anything at all?
EDIT : Im running a completely fresh install of Win 10 on an SSD if that's pertinant
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
A quick google search indicates pinouts on the PSU side can be different even if the plugs fit, and that can (obviously) fuck your hardware and probably isn't going to be covered under warranty (basically negligence/misuse).
Since a lot of companies outsource their PSUs some of them will be cross compatible, but you should definitely check the pinouts if you are going to try to use different brand cables. Not just plug in and hope it works instead of frying your components.
Did the side toward the front of the case click into place? There is a clip on the end of the PCIe slot that holds the card in. If it's clipped in there and screwed in on the other side, the installation should be fine.
You can use GPUz, HW Info, or HW Monitor to check temps, but it's a safe bet that isn't the problem if you are having problems outside of games.
The PCIe power cable is plugged in securely?
The PCIe power cable is in securely. The clip thing is very weird on my motherboard, feels like it doesnt do anything at all. Also - my case doesnt have screws on the other side, just there weird plastics things that you push down and act as screws. I pushed them as far down as they would go and the card felt reasonably well inserted.
I just reseated everything I could in a short amount of time (eg not the CPU) and had about 1 hour of solid uptime. Then went to install Chrome and it froze and restarted itself again.
Samsung MAgician says my SSD, the boot drive, is in good condition.
EDIT : It just restarted again, it was up for maybe 10 minutes. No drama, just screen goes black and it quietly restarts.
Thinking about replacing my R9 Nano for a Gigabyte GeForce 1070 miniITX OC:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125893
The only thing that's keeping me is that I'm still recovering from my budget burn for my rig. I'm hoping there would be a price drop sooner down the line. As it stands, its the only upgrade option for a HTPC build like mine (it can't do fullsized due to the 3"HDD taking up some of the GPU compartment space).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125893
The only thing that's keeping me is that I'm still recovering from my budget burn for my rig. I'm hoping there would be a price drop sooner down the line. As it stands, its the only upgrade option for a HTPC build like mine (it can't do fullsized due to the 3"HDD taking up some of the GPU compartment space).
Wolf Akela
Member
So I bought a cheap Samsung monitor with all the intent of just having a nice big monitor, but surprisingly it supports freesync. I assume it's really not gonna work on my laptop with GT 840M?
edit: freesync, not vsync
edit: freesync, not vsync
All monitors support vsync, don't mistake it for gsync.
What's the case?
This has a number of possible causes:
High temps - Check with hwmonitor
Bad PSU
Bad RAM - Test with memtest/prime95
Bad CPU - I saw this once at Intel where a PC just rebooted for no known reason, idle or under load.
Try to swap out any components with spares to rule things out.
Silverstone Raven RVZ02, and no, it can't fit a full width card atm due to having used some of the GPU compartment space for the 3.5" 4TB HDD (normally it can house such cards, but only if nothing else is in that compartment. Sadly this is the only and official place to put such a class size of HDD, limiting me to miniITX GPUs).
Wolf Akela
Member
Oops I meant Freesync. So does it work or no?
Are you using the optical bay?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1466816/silverstone-raven-rvz01-rvz02-ml07-ml08-ftz01-owners-club/4230#post_24446634
Nvidias cards won't work with freesync.
Good to know! Thanks for that
I changed the extension cord, of all things, and knock on wood, its good for now. Thanks for your input
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Anyone? Halp :]
Check out the Thermaltake Core V1: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002373
It's pretty cheap, adequate cooling, can fit most of your existing parts.
Hi guys!
ReadMe.txt
I put together a list of PC parts to buy, was hoping someone could confirm that they are indeed a good match for each other. The only problem is, I live in Japan where PC gaming isn't really a thing, so I have to import certain items from Amazon US (and not all things are shipped to Japan). So all in all, I can't be too picky, especially since part of my budget is going to the import fee (but all in all, it'll be cheaper/better than buying locally). Anyway, because of my country/situation, there is no point for me to mention any budget since it won't matter, as I'm buying parts locally as well.
Usage
Gonna mainly play games (MMOs, MMORPGs, need dem purdy graphics), and might try some streaming, but it doesn't have to be in top quality). Not gonna play SUPER HEAVY games, but I need a somewhat future-proof PC that lets me enjoy games without constantly being stuck on the Low/Medium graphics & terrible framerates. I might overclock, but I don't see a need for it yet.
Anyway, I've gotta start buying stuff today, so I'm thankful for any reply!
This is what I have on my list so far:
GPU
ASUS 1070 STRIX 8GB (Importing from Amazon US.)
PSU
EVGA 750 GQ, 80+ GOLD 750W (Importing from Amazon US.)
It's funny this is a Japanese brand, but costs over $300 in Japan. Oh, the irony of me importing Japanese hardware back to its motherland.
RAM
Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 2400 (Importing from Amazon US.)
The ones I originally wanted don't ship to Japan, so this is what I found. Seems good enough. Basically we don't have any decent RAM here.
Motherboard
ASUS Z170-A
Processor
Intel Core i5 6600K
CPU Cooler
Hyper 212 EVO 750W
SSD
Samsung EVO 850 500GB
Monitor
Will most likely buy the BenQ 24inch locally.
Keyboard + mouse
Will buy locally, but decide later.
Thermal Paste
Assuming the cooler doesn't come with one, I'll just one from AmazonJP.
PC Tower
Buying a mid-tower locally, but haven't decided one yet. I guess any mid-tower will be fine?
There are some things I won't be getting right away. I'll buy a HDD soon.
And I don't know if I care to buy an optical drive just yet. I definitely don't need a soundcard.
I'm tired. Did I forget something?
ReadMe.txt
I put together a list of PC parts to buy, was hoping someone could confirm that they are indeed a good match for each other. The only problem is, I live in Japan where PC gaming isn't really a thing, so I have to import certain items from Amazon US (and not all things are shipped to Japan). So all in all, I can't be too picky, especially since part of my budget is going to the import fee (but all in all, it'll be cheaper/better than buying locally). Anyway, because of my country/situation, there is no point for me to mention any budget since it won't matter, as I'm buying parts locally as well.
Usage
Gonna mainly play games (MMOs, MMORPGs, need dem purdy graphics), and might try some streaming, but it doesn't have to be in top quality). Not gonna play SUPER HEAVY games, but I need a somewhat future-proof PC that lets me enjoy games without constantly being stuck on the Low/Medium graphics & terrible framerates. I might overclock, but I don't see a need for it yet.
Anyway, I've gotta start buying stuff today, so I'm thankful for any reply!
This is what I have on my list so far:
GPU
ASUS 1070 STRIX 8GB (Importing from Amazon US.)
PSU
EVGA 750 GQ, 80+ GOLD 750W (Importing from Amazon US.)
It's funny this is a Japanese brand, but costs over $300 in Japan. Oh, the irony of me importing Japanese hardware back to its motherland.
RAM
Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 2400 (Importing from Amazon US.)
The ones I originally wanted don't ship to Japan, so this is what I found. Seems good enough. Basically we don't have any decent RAM here.
Motherboard
ASUS Z170-A
Processor
Intel Core i5 6600K
CPU Cooler
Hyper 212 EVO 750W
SSD
Samsung EVO 850 500GB
Monitor
Will most likely buy the BenQ 24inch locally.
Keyboard + mouse
Will buy locally, but decide later.
Thermal Paste
Assuming the cooler doesn't come with one, I'll just one from AmazonJP.
PC Tower
Buying a mid-tower locally, but haven't decided one yet. I guess any mid-tower will be fine?
There are some things I won't be getting right away. I'll buy a HDD soon.
And I don't know if I care to buy an optical drive just yet. I definitely don't need a soundcard.
I'm tired. Did I forget something?
You could save money on the power supply: you don't need more than 550-650W if you plan on using a single GPU. If you can, find a lower wattage but same series from EVGA.
While it's a popular option, you could look for alternatives to the Cooler Master 212 EVO, something quieter would be good. You can see this comparison for some good alternative air coolers and pick one you like that you can find locally: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfvzeXSVom0
(While it's not a comprehensive comparison, you can try drawing your own conclusions from the video)
Yeah, I know I don't need 750W, but the 650W is like $5 cheaper (and the same series don't seem to have 550W in stock). So might as well, you know? Buying PSU locally won't work. We don't have them. I mean, they're from resellers only, and priced up to $1000. I could get a BRONZE at best, for $100. lol
As for the cooler, Japan is very limited on certain PC hardware. It's either 212 EVO or HASWELL.
Out of nowhere last night my PC no longer outputs video.
Of any kind.
From any port on the graphics card.
I tried resetting it, powercycling it, swapping the HDMI cable, using a Displayport instead of HDMI, and plugging it into a different TV.
The computer turns on, mobo lights up, and fans on everything spin up it just won't output video (even the bios screen). The only other oddity is the light on the front of the power button has quit turning on.
It happened somewhat late at night so I gave up and went to bed.The next step is obviously to remove the graphics card and see if I can get anything from the MOBO's video out.
While on one hand I'm hoping it's the GPU. Because if it's the mobo or CPU I have no way of testing further. On the other hand the GPU is the most expensive component on my build...
You guys have any suggestions? Anything I may have missed that could fix this?
Of any kind.
From any port on the graphics card.
I tried resetting it, powercycling it, swapping the HDMI cable, using a Displayport instead of HDMI, and plugging it into a different TV.
The computer turns on, mobo lights up, and fans on everything spin up it just won't output video (even the bios screen). The only other oddity is the light on the front of the power button has quit turning on.
It happened somewhat late at night so I gave up and went to bed.The next step is obviously to remove the graphics card and see if I can get anything from the MOBO's video out.
While on one hand I'm hoping it's the GPU. Because if it's the mobo or CPU I have no way of testing further. On the other hand the GPU is the most expensive component on my build...
You guys have any suggestions? Anything I may have missed that could fix this?
Ryzaki009
Member
This is gonna be a stupid question but it's something I haven't noticed. My cpu core keeps fluctuating wildly even at idle. It'll go from 798Mhz to 2000mhz then jump down to 1k something then go back down to 798 for a bit chill for like...five seconds then hope to 3999mhz. Is that normal?
Because I swear it used to be able to calm down and stay calm until I opened something.
Because I swear it used to be able to calm down and stay calm until I opened something.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Hm... could be coincidence, but if the front light has gone that might suggest something in the motherboard, since obviously that's where the LED connects.
With the GPU, do you have another PCIe slot that can you can put the GPU into?
Sadly my mobo only has one.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Hm... and do you have an intel cpu, or AMD? Because I just realised you could see if integrated graphics kick in without the GPU present.
Yup I have an intel iGPU once I get home today I'm going to try removing the GPU to see if I get anything.
I changed the extension cord, of all things, and knock on wood, its good for now. Thanks for your input
OK, slight issue still :
The thing works EXCEPT when I try to boot up with 2 monitors. My second monitor is crap and use DVI.
Does this still point to the video card then?
The parts look good to me. If you can get something like a Cryorig H7 to replace the 212 EVO and if it won't cost you that much to do so, I'd say go for it. Cryorig H7 is easier to install. But the 212 EVO is still fine! The coolers come with thermal paste, so buying a separate one won't be necessary.
For the case, any mid-tower will do, but be careful with the length of the GPU! I have the Strix 1080 which is the same size as the 1070 and it's a large card. Just double check the case you buy has enough clearance for it. Manufacturer website will typically tell you GPU clearance, as well as CPU cooler clearance. I had to remove a hard drive cage when switching from an MSI to the Asus because the cage got in the way of the Asus card. Otherwise, cases are purely aesthetic, you can buy one you like the look of and has enough space for your cooler and card. Check out cases from Corsair, NZXT, and Fractal Design as a starting point. We'll be here if you need more help.
Good luck!
Little trouble shooting question here.
So when my PC boots up its fine like 50/50 with what is displayed on the monitor. Sometimes i get green screen flickering whenever something graphical pops up some times I don't. If the PC is fine i leave it be, if it flickers I unplug the Display port and replug it and it seems fine.
If the computer is fine and a I restart or windows restarts to update it may restart and have the flickering and again i will have to unplug and replug in the display port.
I have ordered a new display port cord and its coming today so I am going to test that, but, is there any other hardware I should be worried about? Like is this possibly a monitor issue (XB270HU) or a graphics card display port issue (Zotac amp extreme 1080).
Edit: when i unplug the display port, I always unplug from the back of the monitor, if that helps.
So when my PC boots up its fine like 50/50 with what is displayed on the monitor. Sometimes i get green screen flickering whenever something graphical pops up some times I don't. If the PC is fine i leave it be, if it flickers I unplug the Display port and replug it and it seems fine.
If the computer is fine and a I restart or windows restarts to update it may restart and have the flickering and again i will have to unplug and replug in the display port.
I have ordered a new display port cord and its coming today so I am going to test that, but, is there any other hardware I should be worried about? Like is this possibly a monitor issue (XB270HU) or a graphics card display port issue (Zotac amp extreme 1080).
Edit: when i unplug the display port, I always unplug from the back of the monitor, if that helps.
Oh wow, thanks. I will definitely look these over. any reason to go one over the other? Which is more future proof? Is one more easily upgradeable than the other?
Thanks for doing this, ususally very lost with this stuff.
Also any tool kits I should buy with screws and such?
EDIT: Any advantage to using a 1060 instead of spending a bit more cash for a 1070?
Get the one with the i7. You can keep using the old ssd when you get a new, bigger one.
1060 uses less power and should run cooler.
Thanks, will look into it. It will be a multi purpose machine, outside of VR, dont see myself using it primaril for gaming.
Thanks, wasnt aware of the SSD benefits
opticalmace
Member
I sold my 970 to a friend and upgraded to a 1070, don't regret it at all. It was a large jump in performance.
You could always go to a 1080 if you wanted.
Check out linnmon high gloss tables. I bought the white high gloss for only 50 bucks. And it goes great with my white h440 nzxt case.
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