chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I'd recommend a nice 470 over the reference 480. Or spend $20 or so more for a better 480.
Edit: I see you agree and changed it lol
Edit: I see you agree and changed it lol
I'd recommend a nice 470 over the reference 480. Or spend $20 or so more for a better 480.
Edit: I see you agree and changed it lol
So when changing modular power supplies is it prudent to swap out the cables too? I'm moving from a Silverstone to a Corsair and was wondering if like, the pinouts are different or anything? It should would be nice not to have to rewire everything.
I think different companies/PSUs have different connectors. If you went with a different PSU from the same company they may be compatible.
Another tablet question. If all my tablet will be for is for: netflix, twitch, chrome, will I be hurting myself in anyway in getting one of these older 2015 tablets? The Samsung tab 2 8" is on sale for 170 and the shield k1 KS 200, I think I'm deciding between those two. Just thinking android OS wise?
Cablemod: https://store.cablemod.com/configurator/#
or Ensourced: http://www.ensourced.net
I used Cablemod Configurator for my last ITX build. Being able to specify lengths of individual cables made management so much easier.
This never got answered, anyone?
Your Current Specs: nothin'
Budget: ~$1200 USA
Main Use: Gaming, 3D/Model (looking to do some low poly work in Blender), Will eventually get VR device, light game development (Gamemaker/Unity)
Monitor Resolution: Do need a monitor, do not care about 4K, not looking to spend much on monitor
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Plan is to extensively use VR, Unity, and Blender, will use for general gaming but not looking to go way over 60fps
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: next few weeks
Will you be overclocking?: Nope
This never got answered, anyone?
You said monitor doesn't have the be counted for the total so it goes little over, but I tried to keep it in budget:
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/6fr8QV
First things to upgrade if your budget allows it i5 to i7, Seagate to WD Black (Seagate is not known for long life and backupping takes time) and GTX 1060 to what you may need, 1060 should be enough for FullHD gaming.
Also I'd like to note that the monitor is 16:10 (1920x1200) which is nice for productivity, but if gaming is your main use for the machine then switch it to little cheaper Dell U2414H.
This cooler is on par with the 212 and cheaper/no rebate.
Bumping to a 1070 would be a much bigger upgrade than 6600K->6700K for most of the uses he mentioned. Especially for VR.
Okay so I'm still debating on whether to sell my 390x, it wasnt great to run in the summer & I don't game on pc enough (only pc exclusives, mmos(I subscribe for like 2months a year to ffxv) or xbox/pc games), but my pc is on for like 6-9 hours when I'm in my room/awake. So, I wanted your opinion, should I sidegrade to the 1060 6gb or 480 8gb for the lower temps, noise, electricity consumption (I don't know much about this, I assume the newer cards draw less on idle) & renewed warranty or stay with my 390x. I'll sell my 390x for now the price of the other 2 cards(i got it cheap so I'm not technically making a profit on it). I game at 1080p on a dual monitor setup, I don't think freesync is worth it at 60hz, but I haven't experienced it so that may just be ignorance speaking. Enlighten me! Thanks!
As far as I can see the 8pin cpu and pcie cables are identical. I'm gonna swap them I guess.
My most recent psu (different brand) had the same connectors. I'd not bother swapping unless it's easy to do.
Did the side toward the front of the case click into place? There is a clip on the end of the PCIe slot that holds the card in. If it's clipped in there and screwed in on the other side, the installation should be fine.I need some help troubleshooting my PC. I just got a 1060, based my choice on this thread, and ever since my PC would randomly start restarting.
The only issue I had during the install is that the card didnt fit as snugly as I maybe would have hoped. This can be just in my head though.
Is there anything I can check? Temps, anything at all?
A quick google search indicates pinouts on the PSU side can be different even if the plugs fit, and that can (obviously) fuck your hardware and probably isn't going to be covered under warranty (basically negligence/misuse).
Since a lot of companies outsource their PSUs some of them will be cross compatible, but you should definitely check the pinouts if you are going to try to use different brand cables. Not just plug in and hope it works instead of frying your components.
Did the side toward the front of the case click into place? There is a clip on the end of the PCIe slot that holds the card in. If it's clipped in there and screwed in on the other side, the installation should be fine.
You can use GPUz, HW Info, or HW Monitor to check temps, but it's a safe bet that isn't the problem if you are having problems outside of games.
The PCIe power cable is plugged in securely?
So I bought a cheap Samsung monitor with all the intent of just having a nice big monitor, but surprisingly it supports vsync. I assume it's really not gonna work on my laptop with GT 840M?
Thinking about replacing my R9 Nano for a Gigabyte GeForce 1070 miniITX OC:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125893
The only thing that's keeping me is that I'm still recovering from my budget burn for my rig. I'm hoping there would be a price drop sooner down the line. As it stands, its the only upgrade option for a HTPC build like mine (it can't do fullsized due to the 3"HDD taking up some of the GPU compartment space).
The PCIe power cable is in securely. The clip thing is very weird on my motherboard, feels like it doesnt do anything at all. Also - my case doesnt have screws on the other side, just there weird plastics things that you push down and act as screws. I pushed them as far down as they would go and the card felt reasonably well inserted.
I just reseated everything I could in a short amount of time (eg not the CPU) and had about 1 hour of solid uptime. Then went to install Chrome and it froze and restarted itself again.
Samsung MAgician says my SSD, the boot drive, is in good condition.
EDIT : It just restarted again, it was up for maybe 10 minutes. No drama, just screen goes black and it quietly restarts.
Silverstone Raven RVZ02, and no, it can't fit a full width card atm due to having used some of the GPU compartment space for the 3.5" 4TB HDD (normally it can house such cards, but only if nothing else is in that compartment. Sadly this is the only and official place to put such a class size of HDD, limiting me to miniITX GPUs).What's the case?
All monitors support vsync, don't mistake it for gsync.
Silverstone Raven RVZ02, and no, it can't fit a full width card atm due to having used some of the GPU compartment space for the 3.5" 4TB HDD.
Oops I meant Freesync. So does it work or no?
A quick google search indicates pinouts on the PSU side can be different even if the plugs fit, and that can (obviously) fuck your hardware and probably isn't going to be covered under warranty (basically negligence/misuse).
Since a lot of companies outsource their PSUs some of them will be cross compatible, but you should definitely check the pinouts if you are going to try to use different brand cables. Not just plug in and hope it works instead of frying your components.
This has a number of possible causes:
High temps - Check with hwmonitor
Bad PSU
Bad RAM - Test with memtest/prime95
Bad CPU - I saw this once at Intel where a PC just rebooted for no known reason, idle or under load.
Try to swap out any components with spares to rule things out.
GUYS! I need some advice!
I have a crap mATX case (Corsair 200R) that leaves a lot to be desired. It's just too damn big and in spite of its size, has really shit options so far as cooling is concerned.
I'm considering chucking the case and going Mini ITX. I'd like to have a PC that's small enough to take to work with me when I have long shifts with nothing to do.
Trouble is, I'd have to chuck the PSU (non modular full size), motherboard, cooler, and anything else too big to fit inside an mITX case. My CPU is a 4790K and it seems as though Z97 Mini ITX motherboards are impossible to find nowadays without paying out the nose.
This means that pretty much all the components that aren't my CPU, RAM, Graphics card, and possibly SSD/HDDS will need to be replaced. At ~$80-130 for a case, $150 for a MOBO, ~$100 for an SFX PSU (if needed), $~50-80 for a CPU cooler. I'm hovering in the mid $400 range which is seriously offputting as this wouldn't be an upgrade but a side-grade. I would treat this as an opportunity to upgrade to Skylake but franky, I don't think Skylake is worth upgrading from a 4790K. Maybe someone could advise me on that.
I'm just not happy with my current build. Maybe Mini ITX isn't even necessary? Maybe there's a Micro ATX case that could do what I want it to do?
It needs to fit an EVGA GTX 1080 FTW, a i7-4790K, 1 SSD and two 3.5" HDDs and it has to be able to stay cool enough to not throttle either of those two things.
Anyone? Halp :]
Hi guys!
ReadMe.txt
I put together a list of PC parts to buy, was hoping someone could confirm that they are indeed a good match for each other. The only problem is, I live in Japan where PC gaming isn't really a thing, so I have to import certain items from Amazon US (and not all things are shipped to Japan). So all in all, I can't be too picky, especially since part of my budget is going to the import fee (but all in all, it'll be cheaper/better than buying locally). Anyway, because of my country/situation, there is no point for me to mention any budget since it won't matter, as I'm buying parts locally as well.
Usage
Gonna mainly play games (MMOs, MMORPGs, need dem purdy graphics), and might try some streaming, but it doesn't have to be in top quality). Not gonna play SUPER HEAVY games, but I need a somewhat future-proof PC that lets me enjoy games without constantly being stuck on the Low/Medium graphics & terrible framerates. I might overclock, but I don't see a need for it yet.
Anyway, I've gotta start buying stuff today, so I'm thankful for any reply!
This is what I have on my list so far:
You could save money on the power supply: you don't need more than 550-650W if you plan on using a single GPU. If you can, find a lower wattage but same series from EVGA.
While it's a popular option, you could look for alternatives to the Cooler Master 212 EVO, something quieter would be good. You can see this comparison for some good alternative air coolers and pick one you like that you can find locally: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfvzeXSVom0
(While it's not a comprehensive comparison, you can try drawing your own conclusions from the video)
Out of nowhere last night my PC no longer outputs video.
Of any kind.
From any port on the graphics card.
I tried resetting it, powercycling it, swapping the HDMI cable, using a Displayport instead of HDMI, and plugging it into a different TV.
The computer turns on, mobo lights up, and fans on everything spin up it just won't output video (even the bios screen). The only other oddity is the light on the front of the power button has quit turning on.
It happened somewhat late at night so I gave up and went to bed.The next step is obviously to remove the graphics card and see if I can get anything from the MOBO's video out.
While on one hand I'm hoping it's the GPU. Because if it's the mobo or CPU I have no way of testing further. On the other hand the GPU is the most expensive component on my build...
You guys any suggestions? Anything I may have missed that could fix this?
Hm... could be coincidence, but if the front light has gone that might suggest something in the motherboard, since obviously that's where the LED connects.
With the GPU, do you have another PCIe slot that can you can put the GPU into?
Sadly my mobo only has one.
Hm... and do you have an intel cpu, or AMD? Because I just realised you could see if integrated graphics kick in without the GPU present.
I changed the extension cord, of all things, and knock on wood, its good for now. Thanks for your input
Hi guys!
ReadMe.txt
I put together a list of PC parts to buy, was hoping someone could confirm that they are indeed a good match for each other. The only problem is, I live in Japan where PC gaming isn't really a thing, so I have to import certain items from Amazon US (and not all things are shipped to Japan). So all in all, I can't be too picky, especially since part of my budget is going to the import fee (but all in all, it'll be cheaper/better than buying locally). Anyway, because of my country/situation, there is no point for me to mention any budget since it won't matter, as I'm buying parts locally as well.
Usage
Gonna mainly play games (MMOs, MMORPGs, need dem purdy graphics), and might try some streaming, but it doesn't have to be in top quality). Not gonna play SUPER HEAVY games, but I need a somewhat future-proof PC that lets me enjoy games without constantly being stuck on the Low/Medium graphics & terrible framerates. I might overclock, but I don't see a need for it yet.
Anyway, I've gotta start buying stuff today, so I'm thankful for any reply!
This is what I have on my list so far:
GPU
ASUS 1070 STRIX 8GB (Importing from Amazon US.)
PSU
EVGA 750 GQ, 80+ GOLD 750W (Importing from Amazon US.)
It's funny this is a Japanese brand, but costs over $300 in Japan. Oh, the irony of me importing Japanese hardware back to its motherland.
RAM
Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 2400 (Importing from Amazon US.)
The ones I originally wanted don't ship to Japan, so this is what I found. Seems good enough. Basically we don't have any decent RAM here.
Motherboard
ASUS Z170-A
Processor
Intel Core i5 6600K
CPU Cooler
Hyper 212 EVO 750W
SSD
Samsung EVO 850 500GB
Monitor
Will most likely buy the BenQ 24inch locally.
Keyboard + mouse
Will buy locally, but decide later.
Thermal Paste
Assuming the cooler doesn't come with one, I'll just one from AmazonJP.
PC Tower
Buying a mid-tower locally, but haven't decided one yet. I guess any mid-tower will be fine?
There are some things I won't be getting right away. I'll buy a HDD soon.
And I don't know if I care to buy an optical drive just yet. I definitely don't need a soundcard.
I'm tired. Did I forget something?
First go. i7, 256gb SSD.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($137.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($121.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.71 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($249.00 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Total: $1214.38
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-30 21:59 EDT-0400
Bigger SSD, i5 instead of i7.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($137.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($158.57 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.71 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($249.00 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Total: $1170.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-30 22:04 EDT-0400
And my favorite. i7 and wait for the 960 EVO M.2 SSD to drop in October for $129.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($100.66 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.71 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($249.00 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Other: 960 Evo M.2 SSD 256gb ($129.00)
Total: $1184.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-30 22:11 EDT-0400
Get the one with the i7. You can keep using the old ssd when you get a new, bigger one.Oh wow, thanks. I will definitely look these over. any reason to go one over the other? Which is more future proof? Is one more easily upgradeable than the other?
Thanks for doing this, ususally very lost with this stuff.
Also any tool kits I should buy with screws and such?
EDIT: Any advantage to using a 1060 instead of spending a bit more cash for a 1070?
Thanks, will look into it. It will be a multi purpose machine, outside of VR, dont see myself using it primaril for gaming.You said monitor doesn't have the be counted for the total so it goes little over, but I tried to keep it in budget:
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/6fr8QV
First things to upgrade if your budget allows it i5 to i7, Seagate to WD Black (Seagate is not known for long life and backupping takes time) and GTX 1060 to what you may need, 1060 should be enough for FullHD gaming.
Also I'd like to note that the monitor is 16:10 (1920x1200) which is nice for productivity, but if gaming is your main use for the machine then switch it to little cheaper Dell U2414H.
Thanks, wasnt aware of the SSD benefitsI wouldn't skip the SSD. it can vastly improve your overall performance and waiting time. You could skip the water cooler though and go for a cheaper fan/tower cooler.
I sold my 970 to a friend and upgraded to a 1070, don't regret it at all. It was a large jump in performance.Ive just sold my GTX 970 for £195 on eBay, now I'm not sure if I should bother selling it at all for a 1070 =/
Check out linnmon high gloss tables. I bought the white high gloss for only 50 bucks. And it goes great with my white h440 nzxt case.Any IKEA desk recommendation?