It's fine. If you are installing Windows on the SSD, make sure to not have any other drives connected to the motherboard until after the Windows installation is done.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
It's fine. If you are installing Windows on the SSD, make sure to not have any other drives connected to the motherboard until after the Windows installation is done.
ColdDeckEd
Member
aww that sucks, have you tried using different slots? Hopefully its just the memory though, not the mobo.
Looking to build a new PC since my current one is getting old. I appreciate the help guys.
Your Current Specs: 2500K, 24 GB DDR3, 980TI, 850 watts PSU
Budget: 1100$, I'll keep my graphics card.
Main Use: 5
Monitor Resolution: 2560x1440, will upgrade to 4K down the line.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Nothing in mind, most AAAs from this year. 60 Fps is acceptable, but I have a gsync 144hz monitor. Supersampling is important.
Looking to reuse any parts?: My hard drives, PSU and GTX 980 TI
When will you build?: As soon as possible
Will you be overclocking?: Yes
Thanks guys !
Your Current Specs: 2500K, 24 GB DDR3, 980TI, 850 watts PSU
Budget: 1100$, I'll keep my graphics card.
Main Use: 5
Monitor Resolution: 2560x1440, will upgrade to 4K down the line.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Nothing in mind, most AAAs from this year. 60 Fps is acceptable, but I have a gsync 144hz monitor. Supersampling is important.
Looking to reuse any parts?: My hard drives, PSU and GTX 980 TI
When will you build?: As soon as possible
Will you be overclocking?: Yes
Thanks guys !
n0razi
Member
Did you have to do anything special in terms of BIOS, etc? I installed mine in a Angelbird Wings PX1 and I'm getting disappointing results.(Post 1, post 2, post 3.)
Nope, just plug and play into my Z170 board, not bad for 50-cents/GB
No I didn't, the money had to go somewhere else unfortunately.
Never heard of the x99, I'll look into it, thanks. Is it an AMD ? If so I'd rather stick with Intel.
As for the budget, it was before tax.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
X99 is the high end chipset for enthusiast CPUs.
Unfortunately I just got a new cable and it still does this. I hate unplugging and replugging as display ports dont seem to be meant to constantly be unplugged and plugged.
Reading the Nvidia forums it seems to be a pretty common problem, i am surprised no one here has it.
https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/939358/geforce-1000-series/gtx-1080-flickering-issue
Ryzaki009
Member
Ah thanks
I was mostly concerned because my old windows 7 PC (which I'm pretty sure was busted) would clock up to max and wouldn't clock down (and this is despite me enableing and disabling all the EIST like settings in the bios and some of them would make it so much worse and I had to play the pray I got into the boot menu long enough to fix it game. Fun times) and from that would overheat. (Yay for nearly 70c idle temps. Trying to play Skyrim almost got me to 90 lul)chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I don't know much about X99, but it depends on the features you would want. 8 RAM slots, a dozen USB or SATA ports, or whatever. I'd imagine at least some of the cheaper ones are probably pretty good since even those are nearly $200.
For Z170, I'd lean toward the similarly priced MSI and Gigabyte boards. If there's one thing I've found while looking for stuff for myself, it's that Asus boards seem to include less for the same price.
This one is similar with seemingly better connectivity.
It seems like I have a fan killer bug in my home. After the problem in the gpu, which I solved, it has happened another time, this time on the psu.
I haven't been able to solve it, and it's out of guaranty.
I'm thinking about buying the EVGA G2 750 watts. It is recommended in the OP, so it should be a good purchase, right?
I haven't been able to solve it, and it's out of guaranty.
I'm thinking about buying the EVGA G2 750 watts. It is recommended in the OP, so it should be a good purchase, right?
coughlanio
Member
I recommend to anyone to buy a case with a hole in the motherboard tray. Makes life alot easier, especially when dealing with big towers.
manfestival
Member
I was reading to keep my 970 but the 1070 really draws my attention. I am running a dual screen set up right now and keeping everything at 1080p.... what do you guys think?
It's just the memory. When the stick was the primary stick the computer wouldn't even boot.
I ran a full memtest on the second stick and it's fine.
Whenever I throw the second one into the mix I get full problems whenever it pages something from the second stick. One hundred percent the RAM.
I'm now running Prime 95 on the CPU to test the general stability of the PC (and with just 8GB of RAM)
Also, don't know if it's usual but the faulty stick has the contacts like THIS:
You mean curved? That's normal.
Atraveller
Banned
I've had the same problem yesterday. Well, I assume they are the same problems. My PC didn't have the normal boot *beep*, and the fans were spinning at 100%, meaning my PC wasn't just not outputting video, it didn't even get into BIOS. Turned out one of my RAM stick was dead. Check your RAM, MB and PSU (and cables), could be any of those.
Senior Lurker
MS Informed
Hi guys,
My PC is running on an i7 6700k, GTX 1080, and 32 GB of Ram. It's going well except that I also got a 4k monitor the same time I installed my 1080, and as you know even the 1080 card struggles with playing games at 4k with a good frame rate.
I'm thinking in the near future I might target either buying another 1080 and putting the two together in SLI, or just upgrading to an even stronger card like the Titan or 1080Ti if that comes out (or equivalent).
What do you guys recommend? My sense is that SLI is a bit messy and it requires drivers support made for SLI, and thus a beefier card might be better overall? I can always sell the 1080 to upgrade.
Thanks for the help in advance!
My PC is running on an i7 6700k, GTX 1080, and 32 GB of Ram. It's going well except that I also got a 4k monitor the same time I installed my 1080, and as you know even the 1080 card struggles with playing games at 4k with a good frame rate.
I'm thinking in the near future I might target either buying another 1080 and putting the two together in SLI, or just upgrading to an even stronger card like the Titan or 1080Ti if that comes out (or equivalent).
What do you guys recommend? My sense is that SLI is a bit messy and it requires drivers support made for SLI, and thus a beefier card might be better overall? I can always sell the 1080 to upgrade.
Thanks for the help in advance!
Cpt.Underpants
Member
Anyone would recommend a decent ssd? I'm still using a 1tb hd and I thought maybe its time for an upgrade.
When installing the OS on the ssd its just chaning the boot order right?
When installing the OS on the ssd its just chaning the boot order right?
Wait for a stronger single GPU, don't go SLI.
Samsung 850EVO, Transcend SSD370S. Plug the SSD in the first SATA port (usually labeled Sata_0) and verify the boot order.
Cpt.Underpants
Member
Senior Lurker
MS Informed
Wait for the 1080Ti pricing. The Titan is stupid expensive for (4K) gaming.
Hey thanks I'm not getting a beep either and no bios. However I still didn't get bios even with nothing but the CPU attached. Removed everything 1 part at a time and tried removing and reattaching the CMOs battery as well.
Which makes me think it is either the mobo or the CPU. I don't think it's the PSU because everything is spinning up and lighting up. However I have no way of narrowing it down further...
I guess I'm going to go the cheaper route and try replacing the motherboard first.
Before I do that I'll probably try reattaching the ram sticks 1 at a time and try each slot individually
Edit: I need a new case this thing makes it impossible to do any work and I think I broke my push pins when I removed the heatsink.
Double Edit: I tried every individual stick of ram in every individual slot. It's not the RAM unless both of them went out at the same time.
All we know is October (this month). No official date yet, honestly it's worth waiting for it. Especially if you're going to be moving big files and doing video work. I have a 950 PRO m.2 and it screams, the 960 is even faster.
Here's a price sheet with the Gigabyte 1070 included.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($100.66 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($414.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Other: 960 Evo M.2 SSD 256gb ($129.00)
Total: $1350.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-02 12:13 EDT-0400
lostsupper
Banned
Did GAF ban Windows key reseller recommendations? Those $85 keys can be had for $25-$35 from established sites.
Your Current Specs: Currently using this Acer laptop, which is starting to show its age. Looking to replace a PC build from 2008 (core2duo @ 3.00, 560ti)
Budget: Trying to keep it under 1,750 USD
Main Use: 3.5? Not looking to build a monster, but I do want to be able to play everything up to this point decently and not have to worry about upgrading for the next few years.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p to a tv, going to pick up a monitor around Black Friday
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Witcher 3 - 60fps maxed at 1080p, though I don't care about hairworks or anything super fancy. Also going to be playing a lot of my steam backlog, namely Deus Ex HR, Original Sin, Cities: Skylines.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nothing will be compatible
When will you build?: ASAP - parts need to be in by this weekend (which is why I'm using Amazon, also in case of RMA...)
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, though probably not for the first year or so.
This is what I currently have:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($237.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.90 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($106.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($129.92 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($95.50 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($216.02 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($409.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($128.98 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($90.72 @ Amazon)
Total: $1613.49
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-02 12:35 EDT-0400
I'm trying to decide whether I should do water cooling right off the bat, or hold off until I'm actually ready to overclock, which probably won't be until the summer (and with these specs, I don't think I should have to?) Also, I've seen the air cooler in a few builds over at parts picker - it's a tight fit, but doable. If there are better options I'm open to opinions.
My main goal is to get a quiet, discrete box that'll let me play the titles not coming to ps4 (4X, city builders) or to play multi-plats that are (Original Sin 2, Deus Ex:MD, Dark Souls, Witcher 3, etc...) significantly better.
I'll probably be picking up a monitor before the end of the year, but until then I just want to play games in 1080p with a solid framerate.
Is this a good build not only to start off with, but something that'll give me room to improve over the next few years?
Budget: Trying to keep it under 1,750 USD
Main Use: 3.5? Not looking to build a monster, but I do want to be able to play everything up to this point decently and not have to worry about upgrading for the next few years.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p to a tv, going to pick up a monitor around Black Friday
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Witcher 3 - 60fps maxed at 1080p, though I don't care about hairworks or anything super fancy. Also going to be playing a lot of my steam backlog, namely Deus Ex HR, Original Sin, Cities: Skylines.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nothing will be compatible
When will you build?: ASAP - parts need to be in by this weekend (which is why I'm using Amazon, also in case of RMA...)
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, though probably not for the first year or so.
This is what I currently have:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($237.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.90 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($106.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($129.92 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($95.50 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($216.02 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($409.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($128.98 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($90.72 @ Amazon)
Total: $1613.49
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-02 12:35 EDT-0400
I'm trying to decide whether I should do water cooling right off the bat, or hold off until I'm actually ready to overclock, which probably won't be until the summer (and with these specs, I don't think I should have to?) Also, I've seen the air cooler in a few builds over at parts picker - it's a tight fit, but doable. If there are better options I'm open to opinions.
My main goal is to get a quiet, discrete box that'll let me play the titles not coming to ps4 (4X, city builders) or to play multi-plats that are (Original Sin 2, Deus Ex:MD, Dark Souls, Witcher 3, etc...) significantly better.
I'll probably be picking up a monitor before the end of the year, but until then I just want to play games in 1080p with a solid framerate.
Is this a good build not only to start off with, but something that'll give me room to improve over the next few years?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I don't know that it was banned here, but I've seen that it has been banned in places like PCPartpicker's forums.
I've seen mentions of MicrosoftSoftwareSwap keys being deactivated because they were either pirated or keys that were not supposed to be resold.
davepoobond
you can't put a price on sparks
well i'm still having issues with my nvidia graphics driver. i completely uninstalled the driver and booted into windows, and the GPU apparently has some sort of on-board default it installs.
So i'm using that one now, its way old, like 353.90 or something. still having the same "crash to no signal" thing thats going on.
and this:
makes me question -- is there any possibility that my system RAM is fucking with the operation of the driver? Is the only way to test that to take out one stick at a time?
all sorts of different stuff is showing up in the event viewer that is different than before with this older driver, so its just boggling my mind on what it is.
So i'm using that one now, its way old, like 353.90 or something. still having the same "crash to no signal" thing thats going on.
and this:
makes me question -- is there any possibility that my system RAM is fucking with the operation of the driver? Is the only way to test that to take out one stick at a time?
all sorts of different stuff is showing up in the event viewer that is different than before with this older driver, so its just boggling my mind on what it is.
Air cooler wont fit in that case. Dropped the memory to 3000mhz because 3200 costs more for no performance gain.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($245.60 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($117.85 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($139.67 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.96 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($224.21 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.61 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($419.28 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($106.56 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($128.98 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($90.72 @ Amazon)
Total: $1616.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-02 13:07 EDT-0400
Thanks for the heads up on the ram, just switched it out.
For cooling, what's the worst that can happen during installation?
I've never messed with liquid cooling before but I really want noise to be as low as possible and the insides to be relatively low profile.
Hey GAF, looking for a case recommendation. My gf's PC is a mini ITX build in a Silverstone FT03 Mini. She's had it about 2 years, but we're pretty much over how frustrating it is to handle cables and assembly of the thing. She also has an open-air GPU, which was a bad decision on our part given there is no ventilation over the fans.
What options do we have that will be a little easier to cable manage (Looking at the NCASE M1, I think that is still too tight), offer good ventilation for an open air-GPU and single-120mm-radiator, and still have a little bit of a sleek look?
What options do we have that will be a little easier to cable manage (Looking at the NCASE M1, I think that is still too tight), offer good ventilation for an open air-GPU and single-120mm-radiator, and still have a little bit of a sleek look?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
That's a pretty sweet deal.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Yeah for someone's first machine, and at that price, it'd be pretty decent.
Elitist1945
Member
Not sure if this has been covered and perhaps I've missed a lot of info, but did you try updating the BIOS? I had RAM issues when I built my rig this year and after swapping motherboards and sticks the BIOS just needed to be updated lol.
Personally I'd tone things down, specifically in the PSU and SSD department.
1. While yeah the 850 Pro is a great SSD, all you're really doing is gaming right? Usually those SSDs are marketed towards people who deal with stuff like professional video editing. You'll be fine with getting a cheaper SSD.
2. The PSU is ridiculous for your build. You can easily get by with a 550/650w PSU with your setup even when we're talking about OCing.
I think these are the changes you should make
Considering the base price without MIR that's about $200 you can save for your future monitor or you can spend it on peripherals like headphones, a mouse and maybe a mech keyboard.
Absolutely, 200 is a great price if everything works fine.
Edit: It may struggle with overwatch though, maybe consider upgrading the GPU, RX470 for something cheap but good and modern.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I don't know that I'd bother with an H100, especially not for over $100. TD02-Lite and Liquid Freezer 240 are both better options currently available under $80, probably some others too.
1 - Yeah, primarily gaming and hopefully streaming video to some other devices in the house.
2 - I'll probably just upgrade cards instead of going for SLI down the road, so that's a great suggestion.
Noted and changed to both the parts you linked.
The mobo does have an M2 slot - would there be any advantage to going M2 as opposed to 2.5 if they're both the same size and price?
I have an M2 850EVO 500GB I installed in my laptop, but I'm REALLY not looking forward to breaking down the laptop again. It's a year old and not getting much use other than the bootup times now...
I may just end up ordering a smaller M2 for the laptop and switching the 500GB to the main build, as long as there are no downsides
I may just end up ordering a smaller M2 for the laptop and switching the 500GB to the main build, as long as there are no downsides
ColdDeckEd
Member
That m2 won't work in the desktop m2 slot anyways, I think.
hey guys, looking to take the plunge on a GTX 1080 (I have a 970). My build is a mini-itx, so OC'ing is not something I'm interested in.
What's the best GTX 1080 in terms of noise/cooling? From reviews, they all seem to push about the same as far as performance goes, give or take a small %.
I'm currently looking at the eVGA SC and FTW.
What's the best GTX 1080 in terms of noise/cooling? From reviews, they all seem to push about the same as far as performance goes, give or take a small %.
I'm currently looking at the eVGA SC and FTW.
3 slot palit game rock or gainward would be the best.
I would still OC in the ITX box, they all OC similarly though.
Struggle how? A 750 Ti paired with an 1150 socket i3 can easily run this 60+fps on medium settings at 1080p. A still decent quad core with the slightly better 760 can easily run Overwatch. Yeah there might be drops, but generally speaking, it's more than fine.
Jezbollah
Member
If you're seriously intent on getting a GTX 1080 that is best in terms of noise and cooling, then you would look at the AIO Cooled cards such as the MSI Sea Hawk or EVGA Hybrid.
Awesome, I will absolutely look into this. Probably going to buy by the end of the week. Any build guides you could recommend? Also any tools/screws I will need in additiona to those provided?
Quoting in case someone has an answer
Also, anyone have a decent recommendation for an external HDD to play games off of?
My new PC only has a 480 GB SSD
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