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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Bloodember

Member
No, not "maybe." You not experiencing issues does not mean they don't exist.

For example, every single person playing Dragon's Dogma with an xinput controller had double button inputs after the Anniversary update. This wasn't user error, it was a driver conflict caused by xinput's updated api.

If you don't conclusively know the answer to a question, don't just fart out an answer.
There you are wrong, I didn't have that issue with dragons Dogma either. Not everyone has issues with updates, get over it.
 
I have until the 9th of October to return current cooler

If it was me, I'd return it. Even though your temps now are fine, they'll be better with the cooler oriented for flow. On the plus side, it's a really easy installation and it'll actually be cheaper.

There you are wrong, I didn't have that issue with dragons Dogma either. Not everyone has issues with updates, get over it.

Bro. Go look at the hundreds of posts about xinput, the Xbox One controller, and the Anniversary updates. The issue was confirmed by Microsoft and later fixed. Stop shitting up the thread.
 

BosSin

Member
If it was me, I'd return it. Even though your temps now are fine, they'll be better with the cooler oriented for flow. On the plus side, it's a really easy installation and it'll actually be cheaper.

Actually costs slightly more now. When I bought that cooler it was on deal.

I get where you're coming from though, the build isn't perfect right now. I am thinking of requesting a return
 

rac

Banned
There PC I just built won't go to bios, just an orange light on the motherboard. It just keeps restarting, same thing happens when I unplug the RAM and gpu. The motherboard is a ga-b150m-d3h. Any suggestions?
 

Alastor

Member
I just spent 2 hours troubleshooting my brand new Radeon RX 470. No monitor signal. If I switch to my old R6850, everything works fine, but my monitor just displays absolutely nothing with the new card.

It's connected correctly, I checked multiple times both the PCI-Express slot and the power connector. The fans are spinning, but there's no image. Even Bios is not showing. But I hear the the system is loading correctly.

Bad luck, I guess. Returning it tomorrow, not sure what I'll buy next (been thinking about 3GB 1060, but it's a little bit pricier here).
 

LilJoka

Member
I have until the 9th of October to return current cooler

edit: the cooler hangs over my ram but doesn't touch it

You can always move the GPU down a slot?
And as long as it isn't touching you should be good to go.

I cant imagine it being a problem, I have an ITX motherboard with a thermalright silver arrow SB-Extreme cooler and the GPU still fits.

Its not going to make a massive difference, maybe 1-3*c, we just like things to be optimum where they can :D

Yeah fix that cooler. Fan should be on the right side of the computer, blowing through the heatsink and out the back.

What resolution and you playing at on Ultra?



I'm confused, you mean CPU into the GPU? Because the fans blow across the sink, so he's pulling from the top down in the GPU.

Yep, my bad, the CPU fan will end up blowing air towards the GPU, but it doesn't have a fresh intake ideally from the front.
 

kuYuri

Member
I just spent 2 hours troubleshooting my brand new Radeon RX 470. No monitor signal. If I switch to my old R6850, everything works fine, but my monitor just displays absolutely nothing with the new card.

It's connected correctly, I checked multiple times both the PCI-Express slot and the power connector. The fans are spinning, but there's no image. Even Bios is not showing. But I hear the the system is loading correctly.

Bad luck, I guess. Returning it tomorrow, not sure what I'll buy next (been thinking about 3GB 1060, but it's a little bit pricier here).

Did you try out each different video input on the card as well?
 

BosSin

Member
You can always move the GPU down a slot?
And as long as it isn't touching you should be good to go.

I cant imagine it being a problem, I have an ITX motherboard with a thermalright silver arrow SB-Extreme cooler and the GPU still fits.

Its not going to make a massive difference, maybe 1-3*c, we just like things to be optimum where they can :D



Yep, my bad, the CPU fan will end up blowing air towards the GPU, but it doesn't have a fresh intake ideally from the front.

Like I said, that's the only 16x pcie slot. The others are 8x and 4x
 

vector824

Member
Yep, my bad, the CPU fan will end up blowing air towards the GPU, but it doesn't have a fresh intake ideally from the front.

Just making sure! I was scratching my head for a second.

edit: the cooler hangs over my ram but doesn't touch it

If it doesn't touch that's fine. But only if the FAN is OVER the RAM. Because it should be sucking air from the front of your case, blowing it into the heatsink and out the rear.

Like this:

 

LilJoka

Member
Like I said, that's the only 16x pcie slot. The others are 8x and 4x

Hm ok, could still throw it in x8 PCI, more than enough bandwidth. But still surprised the cooler didn't fit, its slightly smaller than mine at 150mm width. Could go with a slightly smaller cooler as like the U12S.
 
Hm ok, could still throw it in x8 PCI, more than enough bandwidth. But still surprised the cooler didn't fit, its slightly smaller than mine at 150mm width. Could go with a slightly smaller cooler as like the U12S.

Pcpartpicker does a good job with gross incompatibilities, don't trust it as a final answer on any component pairing. More manufacturers need to provide detailed compatibility pages like Noctua.
 
Another tablet question. If all my tablet will be for is for: netflix, twitch, chrome, will I be hurting myself in anyway in getting one of these older 2015 tablets? The Samsung tab 2 8" is on sale for 170 and the shield k1 KS 200, I think I'm deciding between those two. Just thinking android OS wise?
 

BosSin

Member
Ok, I've decided to get the nhu12s. I'm going to have to clean the thermal paste off my cpu and current heatsink. Will need to buy isopropyl alcohol and qtips as well as sort out the pick up
 

bryt

Member
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask but how do I find out what is causing a memory leak in my computer? If I leave my computer on for 3-4 days straight it ends up using 16/16GB of my RAM and I have no idea what's using it. I then have to restart and everything is back to normal.

I'm suspecting it's Flash or FireFox since I watch a lot of Twitch streams, but I'm not sure how to confirm if that's true.

My previous computer I would leave on for months straight and it never did this and I only had 4GB of RAM.
 

BosSin

Member
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask but how do I find out what is causing a memory leak in my computer? If I leave my computer on for 3-4 days straight it ends up using 16/16GB of my RAM and I have no idea what's using it. I then have to restart and everything is back to normal.

I'm suspecting it's Flash or FireFox since I watch a lot of Twitch streams, but I'm not sure how to confirm if that's true.

My previous computer I would leave on for months straight and it never did this and I only had 4GB of RAM.
Did you check how much memory each process is using?
 

bryt

Member
Did you check how much memory each process is using?

Do you mean in Task Manager? That never adds up to what it says I'm using in the performance tab. Like right now it says I'm using 6.6GB/15.9GB but when I look in the processes tab the Mem usage doesn't add up to 6.6GB. Usually when my memory is at 15.9GB/15.9GB, my FireFox is sitting at ~850 MB of Mem usuage.

bxZYaPn.png
 

Echoes

Member
EDIT: For that matter, which software would you recommend using nowadays for copying over one SSD's contents including OS to a new one? I'm just planning to install the SSD like it's this new PC's default drive, install the 1TB when that's up and running, copy the image over with whatever software, make the 1TB the default and format the 250. That the usual procedure people go with?

I used Reflect (recommended by a kind gaffer in this thread) this past week to clone my SSD to my new M.2, worked perfectly:
http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx

-

Installed 4 new fans in the case (3 Cougar Vortex PWM 120 at the front, one Noctua NF-A14 at the back) with the NZXT Grid+ V2 fan controller and I'm happy with the performance. I followed this guy's research to choose my fans. I'm currently running the fans through a custom curve, with the idle RPM at 35% (840 for the Cougar, 1020 for the Noctua) and, coupled with my NZXT H440 case's sound dampening material, the machine is incredibly quiet. Idle temps are 33 CPU / 39 GPU — I can lower them by increasing the fans just a bit more but I don't mind it considering how quiet the machine is now.
 

coughlanio

Member
So, seriously considering getting my GF to buy me a 6800k, x99 ITX motherboard and 32GB of RAM for my birthday. I was going to go 6700k, but the x99 configuration isn't a whole lot more, and allows me greater upgrade options down the road as used workstation Xeons get cheaper. At best, with the z170 chipset, I'll only have the option to upgrade to a 7700k with a 5% IPC improvement.

FWIW, I'm a developer who does a lot of virtualization, so the more cores and RAM the better. This will be paired with my current 1080 in an NCASE M1 I plan on purchasing.
 

shagia

Member
I'm a developer who does a lot of virtualization

Go x99. It's a costly platform but for development and production uses, it's so worth it, especially in Compatibility. We'll be seeing support for the LGA2011-v3 socket until 2018, and even then, the Xeons that support the socket are definitely worthwhile from the looks of it. I'd say the extra money you'd have to put down for a x99 build is ultimately worth it in the end for a build that can possibly last a great amount of time.
 

coughlanio

Member
Go x99. It's a costly platform but for development and production uses, it's so worth it, especially in Compatibility. We'll be seeing support for the LGA2011-v3 socket until 2018, and even then, the Xeons that support the socket are definitely worthwhile from the looks of it. I'd say the extra money you'd have to put down for a x99 build is ultimately worth it in the end for a build that can possibly last a great amount of time.

Awesome. I know Intel will manufacture x99 into 2018, but can we expect any reasonable CPU support? My understanding is that Skylake-E is on a new socket?
 

shagia

Member
Awesome. I know Intel will manufacture x99 into 2018, but can we expect any reasonable CPU support? My understanding is that Skylake-E is on a new socket?

I feel like you're referring to Skylake-X? Since Broadwell-E is what people thought Skylake-E was going to be

if you're talking about Skylake-X then yeah, it'll be using a different socket, I think come 2017 the support for newer CPUs will slow down, but I think it'll still hold it's legs
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
I use that exact board, 1.0. Not a lot of options for high end z170 matx, and from when I last checked, the Asus Gene is like a good $80 more for some features you (probably) won't even use.

I would say the Killer NICs aren't worth avoiding a mobo over, but Intel would've been preferred. The only problem I had was Windows 10 not being able to install a generic driver for it.

The Asus board seems like it's easily the best option, but the price is just too steep for me to justify. The Gigabyte board offers nearly everything, the NIC was my only meaningful concern with it.



Can't wait, caved and bought the rest of the parts. Probably not as good as the deals that will be up in a couple months but I'm ready to build.
 

e90Mark

Member
The Asus board seems like it's easily the best option, but the price is just too steep for me to justify. The Gigabyte board offers nearly everything, the NIC was my only meaningful concern with it.



Can't wait, caved and bought the rest of the parts. Probably not as good as the deals that will be up in a couple months but I'm ready to build.

Pretty much why I also went with the Gaming 5 over the Gene.

Don't even think about deals. CM/BF is lackluster, lol. 6700k's at $290 right now are a steal. I bought mine when it was at like $380 due to supply. Oh well.
 

wowzors

Member
I have a new problem lately and its bugging the shit out of me. On startup I get tons of screen flickering a green graphical glitches, this persists until I unplug and replug the display port cord from my 1080 to my gsync.
 
I have a new problem lately and its bugging the shit out of me. On startup I get tons of screen flickering a green graphical glitches, this persists until I unplug and replug the display port cord from my 1080 to my gsync.

Try a different cable?

Also, try changing the refresh rate (lower), just in case.
 
I'm building my first PC build soon, need some help with the Power Supply; this is my current list of what I'm getting (the ones listed at Micro Center are the ones I've gotten already) (No storage listed because I'm going to reuse my desktop's 128GB SSD and 2TB HDD)

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($239.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $714.94

Debating between the Corsair CX' 500W and 600W Power Supplies, is 500 more than enough for what I'm building, or should I go for the 600?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Would the EVGA 500B or 600B be a good PSU?

Those would be better choices, yeah. The Seasonic M12II 520/620W is a better quality but a bit more expensive PSU that you might consider, but it's also older and only has 8 pin+6 pin PCIe connectors, and not 2x 8 pin.

500B/600B would have better compatibility if you planned on buying a high end GPU with two 8 pins, but the Seasonic is otherwise a better unit.


Edit: Fixed that, even though you already decided on a 600B. Meant to say the M12II since it's modular. I also saw that it has 2x 8 pin too. Both being modular and having comparable connectors the Seasonic is straight up better, but it comes down to budget. For $50 AR that 520W is a nice buy though.



What I ended up with, including the new and old/reused. Going to be fun packing all this into that case while trying to keep it tidy.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer 120 74.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Toshiba X300 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 480 8GB Red Devil Video Card
Case: Silverstone SG10B MicroATX Mini Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Sound Card: Creative Labs Z PCIe 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card
Optical Drive: BC-5600S - 4X BLU-RAY Disc Reader/ Supermulti Slimslot DVD-ROM Sata Optical Drive
 

City 17

Member
Help me GAF

This is my old setup (bought around 2010):
MB p7p55d-e
i5 760 OC 3.8GHz
Noctua NH-D14
GTX 460
8GB 1600
Cooler Master HAF 932
ACBEL 800W circa 2010 (I know, not a good brand)

I have the budget for a GTX 1060. How much would my MB limit 1060's capabilities? (Changing the MB/CPU would simply be too much, so it's not an option)
FYI my stone-age p7p55d-e only supports:
1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (single at x16)
1 x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots (@x4 mode, 2.5GT/s)
3 x PCI Express 2.0 x1 (2.5GT/s)

And I do need a new PSU, right? If so what would be a rel. cheap option to get the job done?
 
Help me GAF

This is my old setup (bought around 2010):
MB p7p55d-e
i5 760 OC 3.8GHz
Noctua NH-D14
GTX 460
8GB 1600
Cooler Master HAF 932
ACBEL 800W circa 2010 (I know, not a good brand)

I have the budget for a GTX 1060. How much would my MB limit 1060's capabilities? (Changing the MB/CPU would simply be too much, so it's not an option)
FYI my stone-age p7p55d-e only supports:
1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (single at x16)
1 x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots (@x4 mode, 2.5GT/s)
3 x PCI Express 2.0 x1 (2.5GT/s)

And I do need a new PSU, right? If so what would be a rel. cheap option to get the job done?
Motherboard is fine, grab the new GPU. I would replace the PSU too, someone else can suggest something in USD.

When you upgrade your CPU/mobo, hang onto that cooler, it's pretty badass (assuming it's anything like the D15, which I think it is). You can get new mounting hardware from Noctua for free when you need it.
 
Got my finalized build, can't wait to see how it turns out.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Carried over from my old desktop)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda ES.2 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Carried over from my old desktop)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($239.99 @ NewEgg)
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($45.61 @ NewEgg)
Total: $760.55

Edit: All of the specs above are already purchased, just to clarify a bit
 

City 17

Member
Motherboard is fine, grab the new GPU. I would replace the PSU too, someone else can suggest something in USD.

When you upgrade your CPU/mobo, hang onto that cooler, it's pretty badass (assuming it's anything like the D15, which I think it is). You can get new mounting hardware from Noctua for free when you need it.
Thanks, so PCIe 2 x16 speeds wouldn't limit the GTX 1060, right?
 

DonMigs85

Member
Got my finalized build, can't wait to see how it turns out.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung EVO SSD (Carried over from old desktop, unsure about drive size)
Storage: Some random 2TB HDD left over from my old desktop
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($239.99 @ NewEgg)
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($45.61 @ NewEgg)
Total: $760.55

SUUUURE you don't wanna just wait for Kaby Lake? Just 3 more months or so.
 

BraXzy

Member
My monitor arrived from eBay yesterday.

It's an ex-display but it's in near brand new condition so I'm happy with that. Go to set it up...

Display Port cable is missing (it's a G-Sync monitor),I think they assumed the USB 3.0 Type B was it.

The power adapter included was Phillips branded, completely wrong size... It's an AOC monitor. Oh eBay.
 
Got my finalized build, can't wait to see how it turns out.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung EVO SSD (Carried over from old desktop, unsure about drive size)
Storage: Some random 2TB HDD left over from my old desktop
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($239.99 @ NewEgg)
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($45.61 @ NewEgg)
Total: $760.55

Get a nice air cooler instead of the H60. Same price, better performance. And if you can afford a little bit more, get a better power supply. It's the one component all the other ones rely on. EVGA makes some decent units, but not at that price range.
 

Copons

Member
I'm having a bit of an issue I'm not quite sure how to fix.

Yesterday I installed two new RAM chips on my mobo. It all booted up fine, both the BIOS And Windows recognized the increase to 16GB (from 8).
I used the PC for several hours, shutting it off a couple of times, and everything worked just fine.

Now today Win10 updated and restarted the PC.
I let it do its thing, then I come back to a black screen like this one:

I resumed, the Win update completed and everything seemed ok.
Except, the system properties showed 15.9GB instead of 16.0GB.

I reboot. And the PC doesn't boot up again.
Instead I hear fans spinning and a pattern of 3 long beeps repeating.
Apparently, 3 long beeps should mean a memory problems.

I remove the two new RAM chips and the PC boots up fine, so yes, it's definitely a memory problem.

But: is it a problem of (one or both) the new chips or a problem of the motherboard?
Is there a convenient way to find out about it, or I should just try to place the new chips into the slots currently occupied by the old ones?

I also wondered if I was supposed to setup anything when I added the new RAM to the system?
Like, I don't know, maybe the Win update expected to find 8GB but then saw 16GB and freaked out? :D

For reference:
RAM chips are all Corsair Vengeance CML8GX3M2A1600C9B
Mobo is an ASRock Z87 Pro3
 
Purchased this. It'll be hand-carried back home next month, arrving October 14th.

FxxCBngl.jpg


It's for the VR rig running in the living room. I'm tired of the card clocking down every time it hits 83C. Together with the Phanteks P400S sound dampening and everything running under water, this should keep the temperature and noise in check.

SMDR24Ll.jpg

WR4gIhFl.jpg
 

Dimefan3

Member
I'm having a bit of an issue I'm not quite sure how to fix.

Yesterday I installed two new RAM chips on my mobo. It all booted up fine, both the BIOS And Windows recognized the increase to 16GB (from 8).
I used the PC for several hours, shutting it off a couple of times, and everything worked just fine.

Now today Win10 updated and restarted the PC.
I let it do its thing, then I come back to a black screen like this one:


I resumed, the Win update completed and everything seemed ok.
Except, the system properties showed 15.9GB instead of 16.0GB.

I reboot. And the PC doesn't boot up again.
Instead I hear fans spinning and a pattern of 3 long beeps repeating.
Apparently, 3 long beeps should mean a memory problems.

I remove the two new RAM chips and the PC boots up fine, so yes, it's definitely a memory problem.

But: is it a problem of (one or both) the new chips or a problem of the motherboard?
Is there a convenient way to find out about it, or I should just try to place the new chips into the slots currently occupied by the old ones?

I also wondered if I was supposed to setup anything when I added the new RAM to the system?
Like, I don't know, maybe the Win update expected to find 8GB but then saw 16GB and freaked out? :D

For reference:
RAM chips are all Corsair Vengeance CML8GX3M2A1600C9B
Mobo is an ASRock Z87 Pro3

Wouldn't be surprised if it was the RAM - I remember going through two vengeance sticks a while back and neither of them worked.

Come to think of it I think I was using an ASRock mobo at the time, so it could be that those two don't get along.
 

Copons

Member
Wouldn't be surprised if it was the RAM - I remember going through two vengeance sticks a while back and neither of them worked.

Come to think of it I think I was using an ASRock mobo at the time, so it could be that those two don't get along.

Well, I've been using the very same Vengeance sticks for like 3 years with no issues whatsoever. (and anyway, that RAM is listed in the mobo compatibility list)

I guess I'll just need to mix and match old (good) and new (likely broken) sticks, in various slots, to find out if the culprit is the RAM (and if both or just one stick) or the mobo.

What confuses me, is that the error happened right after the Win update, while during normal boots (before the update) everything was just fine.
 
My RAM is nearly full again.

ramioszh.png


CPU is also quite high, wsappx (2) takes over 20 %.

What to do with the RAM situation? I don't see anything that takes that much place.
 
When I got my PC I just did a quick/simple overclock on my 6700K. it was my first time OC'ing a cpu so was hesitant to play about with a lot of settings. I currently have it overclocked at 4.5Ghz using 1.335V. according to CPU-z the voltage sometimes reports at 1.344 (LLC maybe?) That is the absolute lowest it will run stable. At 1.330 prime 95 workers kept failing. At 1.335V i have put it through prime95, aida64, x264 bench, 3d mark (timespy), and games like GTA V/Dying Light/Rocket League/Overwatch.

Anyway, my question is about FCLK. I'm now reading it should be set 1Ghz but stock settings are 800mhz. I know there isn't much of a performance gain but it would like to set it 1Ghz anyway. If I am to do this would it require any voltage adjustments? The only voltage I have touched is the Core. not IO/SA voltages.

Another quick question. i seem to have got unlucky in the "silicon lottery". i think if i were to try get 4.6Ghz I'd need to put about 1.37/1.38V in and 1.43/1.44V for 4.7Ghz (voltages are just a rough guess). is it worth it? i know intel says 1.5v is the max but a lot of people say don't go over 1.4V. i just use my PC for games and don't use it for anything heavy for a lot of time. would running at those voltages ruin my cpu? should i just stay at what i have? 100mhz isn't a big difference but might be worth it getting another 200mhz. as for temps i haven't gone over 73C in stress tests.
 
Purchased this. It'll be hand-carried back home next month, arrving October 14th.

FxxCBngl.jpg


It's for the VR rig running in the living room. I'm tired of the card clocking down every time it hits 83C. Together with the Phanteks P400S sound dampening and everything running under water, this should keep the temperature and noise in check.

I've got the MSI version of this and just wanted to say it runs great. I haven't messed around with overclocking yet, but under load it hasn't gone above 50C, 25C idle.

It's so cool to have all these new AIO cooler options for video cards now. Setup is as easy as can be and it really doesn't cost much more than the standard air cooled card.
 
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