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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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ehead

Member
wooooo

computer built wasn't too bad - had some fighting with the cooler and power supply but it all slotted in real nice.

updated W10 all the way - what's next?

i have an Asus Pro Gaming z170 mini itx - should i update my bios? from here:
https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z170I-PRO-GAMING/HelpDesk_Download/

I have the same mobo too. Anyway, as others have mentioned, update the bios and drivers. After that, you may want to do some stress test to check if there are any problems with your build. You can try downloading Aida64, 3dMark and other benchmarking tools.
 
A question.
I want to buy a second M.2 SSD, I already have a Samsung 950 Pro 512 GB.
My Z170A Krait Gaming only has 1 M.2 SSD slot, and I wanted to expand it with this:

https://www.asus.com/Motherboard-Accessory/HYPER_M2_X4_MINI_CARD/

Somebody in here already have some impressions with this solution?
Way cheaper than buying a new Mainboard, especially my Mainboard is fine as is.

Edit; I looked it all up, your Mobo's small slots are PCIe 3.0 x1, but the larger ones are PCIe 3.0 x4 which is fine, the adapter you linked sounds good in reviews and goes for like $20, so that works. Only thing you need to confirm is that you have a spare long PCIe slot, that isn't going to be in the way of your video card/cards sli? Otherwise you should be set.
 
I know where the issues of air flow would be coming from.

This is a poor picture I took last night so excuse my legs.



I mean it's pretty obvious what you could say needs to be improved but it can't because of the form factor of the case.

Running a Prime95 test gets me to around 85c on average. I presume with the inclusion of the GPU pumping heat into the case it could easily get hotter.

One of the cores was hotter by between 2-4 Celsius consistently but I think that is within acceptable levels.

I'll have to fiddle around when I get back from work.
The drive bays and whatnot are blocking the view, I could barely make out the CPU cooler, can't help you with that pic. But one thing I know for sure is you can have good temperature performance in a small form factor PC.
 
Eek. All my parts are either here or on the way. Ready to build next weekend.

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/tb2H3F

CPU
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
£183.05

CPU Cooler
be quiet! Shadow Rock 2 51.4 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler
£39.00

Motherboard
Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
£127.43

Memory
Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
£155.99

Storage
Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
£109.98

Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
£75.78

Video Card
MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card
£370.00

Case
Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
£86.99

Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
£70.97

Optical Drive
Asus BC-12D2HT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
£49.99

Case Fan
Corsair Air Series White 2 pack 52.2 CFM 120mm Fan
£21.48
Fractal D​esign Sile​nt Series ​R3 140mm C​ase Fan £12.37

Monitor
Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 27.0" 144Hz Monitor
£400.00

Keyboard
DBPower RG​B Keyboard
£29.99

Mouse
Logitech G303 Daedalus Apex Wired Optical Mouse
£11.99

Headphones
Logitech G930 7.1 Channel Headset
£69.99

Speakers
Logitech Z200 0W 2ch Speakers
£23.24

Internal C​ard Reader
£26.99

Total (Purchased): £1865.23

Wanted to keep it under 2 grand with a desk and a chair which I've managed. Even got some sechshy LED lighing for around the back and side of the desk.


IWjbGS-RaV7QUin6KLarCNCFIUnXJEAF_bUvxFuT_Zs8LgFRvRL0s1QFPEWpnREPVYEuQEW7MnSk91d6Hhir__kHz-4rauw55lIxrNJE1e0t4ByLP79bRZ3XrCewhOA9kHsSRj7G1XX1D-fcid8GV-4U7e9M3Lm803ogEjqTu_MueRrpWAu9qmOqhF96HLBesHqLWvzyWoEJEBJAvj79BBsk7X20dUhLITgMInDNNB88-B62uOxT4tHdZmf6Bzkds6XoaCX4dg4zDW2kKjBd3Kyv3BkmZ-4N1swthn4YioXAbH0GNPay7sg3Z6vp0m1rTbYlx_mXbhrDvp_lp1FSkvrsYzFBmqAZcZsLbRpcY5kn3IQFUMQofmI8hxyYKwCXUjxB8LMl2I4DnqBfyWoMTmVjn1ZImESv0ozxfNC90YlbJutlFsS9ovntPVJZIXYU-E8TRyDKf5J3oJ_98UlxRHp1LjcTX8R0UKbPVxJRldLnBUYoLnSEuIe0gSeB0-UazO1r5zRuR-AH5-ox85f9qPVR2J5ae0hRIuCZvBjbsawP5xBpgtWKp4LxzPhgykTfFmld0VNeF2ghQ-QaWozG56HSFglZndWDm_clos7HeokROclU=w1135-h638-no

The lighting isn't as harsh as that and gives off a really nice glow. Just enough light to warrant not having a light on at night.
 

Dio

Banned
I don't want to use a Hue+ crazy super LED mod, but I do want to illuminate the inside of my case.

https://youtu.be/XBHRDuUHe4s?t=1250

Can any of you guys tell what white LED strip this guy put in the top of his S340 Elite? I'm thinking just a low key strip on top like this would be all I need, nothing ricer or constantly flashing and changing colors or anything.
 
The drive bays and whatnot are blocking the view, I could barely make out the CPU cooler, can't help you with that pic. But one thing I know for sure is you can have good temperature performance in a small form factor PC.

What tips would you have in general? I was just going to tidy the cables up when I get home with cable ties. The heatsink sits half under the drivebay and half open.

I have two Scythe Gentle Typhoons set up, one is an intake (paired with just a stock fan that came with the case) and the exhaust on side closest is the second Typhoon. Is this the most efficient set up?

I don't know if I just did a dodgy job with the the thermal paste or maybe it is where it is situated in my room.

Some more bad pictures from last night:



Obviously its a bit different with all the stuff in it now but the area just in front of the PSU is a rats nest of cables, possibly affecting the exhaust possibilities.
 
When's the 1080ti dropping? June/July?

Bought a 1070 to help me run 1440p, but if the price for the ti isn't too steep ($800 would be my limit) I'd like to upgrade again.
 
What tips would you have in general? I was just going to tidy the cables up when I get home with cable ties. The heatsink sits half under the drivebay and half open.

I have two Scythe Gentle Typhoons set up, one is an intake (paired with just a stock fan that came with the case) and the exhaust on side closest is the second Typhoon. Is this the most efficient set up?

I don't know if I just did a dodgy job with the the thermal paste or maybe it is where it is situated in my room.

Some more bad pictures from last night:





Obviously its a bit different with all the stuff in it now but the area just in front of the PSU is a rats nest of cables, possibly affecting the exhaust possibilities.
So it intakes from the CPU side then exhausts at the PSU side is that it? The air flows from right to left, but it won't reach the exhaust fan smoothly because the GPU intakes from the left, not to mention all the cables blocking the exhaust fan.
 
Edit; I looked it all up, your Mobo's small slots are PCIe 3.0 x1, but the larger ones are PCIe 3.0 x4 which is fine, the adapter you linked sounds good in reviews and goes for like $20, so that works. Only thing you need to confirm is that you have a spare long PCIe slot, that isn't going to be in the way of your video card/cards sli? Otherwise you should be set.

Thanks for the reply.
I don't use an SLI solution, so the card should fit perfectly.
Also have enough spare PCI Express slots.
 
So it intakes from the CPU side then exhausts at the PSU side is that it? The air flows from right to left, but it won't reach the exhaust fan smoothly because the GPU intakes from the left, not to mention all the cables blocking the exhaust fan.

Yeah, short of changing the configuration though, there is really not much I can do, that is the layout of the case.
 

sueil

Member
Hi I am looking to build a new PC in early November. I'm looking at a budget of around 3-4000 dollars and including a 21:9 monitor. I live in the US. Right now I have a 3570k a 780 16 gb of ram and a 600 watt seasonic psu and I don't remember my case and about 6 TB of HDD space. Main use is going to be gaming with maybe some emulation and I want to get into streaming. I want to be able to play games at a minimum of 60 fps at high resolution. I want games like Doom and Dishonored 2 and Civilization 6 to run well. I'm not going to reuse any parts and will be donating my old PC and I will be overlclocking.

I'm thinking about getting a Titan X and one of those G sync 21:9 curved 3440x1440 monitors.
 

kikonawa

Member
My Current build is

Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4670K CPU @ 3.40GHz
8GB Ram
Radeon r7 200

If I had £150 to spend what would be more beneficial to upgrade for games? Im currently having an issue where Fifa is running super slow and I think its the cpu, but I cant be sure. I like the idea of a new cpu because my pc is running slow as is.
Gpu for sure. I rock an i5 3570 also with 8gb and all games are smooth sailing with my radeon r290 4gb
 

jon bones

hot hot hanuman-on-man action
Yes. Update to the latest BIOS, LAN, and chipset drivers. And install AI Suite for Windows fan controls.

I have the same mobo too. Anyway, as others have mentioned, update the bios and drivers. After that, you may want to do some stress test to check if there are any problems with your build. You can try downloading Aida64, 3dMark and other benchmarking tools.

OK, thanks - will do. I played a bit of Forza and it ran like a dream. Also checked the temps afterward and they all looked good.

Anything I should be looking out for in terms of errors or problems with the build?
 
Yes, negative pressure configuration. But that means you really need to move the cables away from that one fan.

They literally have nowhere to go. When I get home I had planned to cable tie them into something a bit less messy.

Well i'll try it out and see how it goes. If I can't sort it I think i'll have to look at a different case.
 

Mr Cola

Brothas With Attitude / The Wrong Brotha to Fuck Wit / Die Brotha Die / Brothas in Paris
Is the OS on a SSD or a mechanical drive (HDD)?

If it is a HDD the best upgrade path is to just get a SSD and a fresh Windows installation. Would probably be a day and night difference.

HDD, windows is currently installed on there, if I got an SSD how would I go about transferring the windows copy from the HDD to the SSD? I dont have a physical version this came with the pc on the HD.
 

Neil_J_UK

Member
Fuckin' hell Brexit.

Bought a 500gb SSD at the start of the year for £120 and I'm in the market for another one, maybe 1TB. Assumed the prices would have dipped a bit but nope - gone up by £30!
 

Fantastapotamus

Wrong about commas, wrong about everything
Not sure if this is the right thread but I fear my hard drive might be dying. Win10 froze 3 times in the last 3 days and when I started my PC today it gave me an "Operating System not found" message. I checked whether some cables got loose and while it started again the next time I turned it on it didn't felt like there was anything wrong with the cables.
Am I just overreacting? I don't know how old my hard drive is, but it has to be pretty old, probably 8-10 years. Any good methods to check whether that's actually the case?
 

Bloodember

Member
HDD, windows is currently installed on there, if I got an SSD how would I go about transferring the windows copy from the HDD to the SSD? I dont have a physical version this came with the pc on the HD.

Ok, that is most likely the reason Windows is slow. Get a SSD. You can you cloning software or you can just reinstall a fresh copy using an USB drive.
 
OK, thanks - will do. I played a bit of Forza and it ran like a dream. Also checked the temps afterward and they all looked good.

Anything I should be looking out for in terms of errors or problems with the build?

If your temps are good and you're not having any outright crashes or hardware errors just enjoy it.

And then start pushing those overclocks.
 

Drop

Member
Hi everyone, I posted in here ages ago asking for advices on a pc I ended up never building, now I really need to get a new pc so I'm back, I have picked most components already but I have some pretty specific questions.

Here's the list so far:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (€208.90 @ Amazon Italia)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (€54.41)
Storage: A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€52.70 @ Amazon Italia)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€48.90)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (€65.00)
Total: €429.91
The added prices are just stuff that pc part picker doesn't find but is actually on Amazon.it, I live in Italy so that's where I'll be buying most of the stuff.

Couldn't find it any on pc part picker but the case is going to be a cheap Itek one for around 35-40€ there's a couple of them on Amazon, they all come with a frontal fan, I know they're not great but the case seem to be one of the best thing to save some money on.
As for GPU I was thinking of waiting for the gtx 1050 ti to release(should be around 160€) and then weight my options.

Now the problem is that I just have no idea on how to pick a motherboard, so could someone help me with it? I'd like to spend as little as possible on it, as long as it works it's good.

I was also wondering if that cpu would work fine with a stock cooler or if I'd need to buy a separate one, or even install additional fans on the case.
 

bloomorte

Member
A friend was selling a GTX 970...my dad bought a new PC a few months before he passed away, it has a Core i3 2nd gen. I took his computer and bought my friends card and a 750w corsair powersupply.

I never had a gaming PC before, I'm really surprised on how well GTX 970 runs things...The Witcher 3 keeps on 55fps (with ups and downs, I noticed 47fps min.) without any overclocking!

Since I'll eventually have to get another CPU, and since I'll have to spend money anyway, I decided to go for a setup that won't require anything else for a couple years, so...probably going for a Core i7 6700k and some mid end mobo with DDR4 support. I hope I won't be needing 4k anytime soon.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
HDD, windows is currently installed on there, if I got an SSD how would I go about transferring the windows copy from the HDD to the SSD? I dont have a physical version this came with the pc on the HD.



Use Macrium Reflect to clone the drive. And you can just use the refresh option in Windows and set it to basically a factory state, but keep your files.

Not sure if this is the right thread but I fear my hard drive might be dying. Win10 froze 3 times in the last 3 days and when I started my PC today it gave me an "Operating System not found" message. I checked whether some cables got loose and while it started again the next time I turned it on it didn't felt like there was anything wrong with the cables.
Am I just overreacting? I don't know how old my hard drive is, but it has to be pretty old, probably 8-10 years. Any good methods to check whether that's actually the case?

Check the SMART info for the drive, that will probably give you an idea. At that age HDD failure isn't unlikely though.

Hi everyone, I posted in here ages ago asking for advices on a pc I ended up never building, now I really need to get a new pc so I'm back, I have picked most components already but I have some pretty specific questions.

Here's the list so far:

The added prices are just stuff that pc part picker doesn't find but is actually on Amazon.it, I live in Italy so that's where I'll be buying most of the stuff.

Couldn't find it any on pc part picker but the case is going to be a cheap Itek one for around 35-40€ there's a couple of them on Amazon, they all come with a frontal fan, I know they're not great but the case seem to be one of the best thing to save some money on.
As for GPU I was thinking of waiting for the gtx 1050 ti to release(should be around 160€) and then weight my options.

Now the problem is that I just have no idea on how to pick a motherboard, so could someone help me with it? I'd like to spend as little as possible on it, as long as it works it's good.

I was also wondering if that cpu would work fine with a stock cooler or if I'd need to buy a separate one, or even install additional fans on the case.

Since you aren't overclocking, just find a B150 or H170 board that has the features you want in the correct form factor (ATX, microATX, ITX).

Stock cooler will be fine but probably noisy under load.
 

kuYuri

Member
Settled on this for my initial idea.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/jkMR4C

I'm waiting for the new Samsung m.2 drives to be released in a few weeks so there's no SSD on the list.

Solid start. I made a few modifications.

I added a better air cooler, since budget is not really a big factor, I figured why skimp on the cooler? I gave you slightly slower rated, but less expensive RAM since 3000mhz is the best price to performance ratio. I replaced the WD Reds with Blacks since they are slightly faster, currently at the same price, and have longer warranties, although this is personal preference if these drives are mainly being used for storage. You can stick with the Reds if you want to reduce heat/noise.

If you are going SLI 1080s, I would consider going with one Titan X Pascal instead since it might be both less expensive to buy that one card versus two 1080s, but also SLI support in games can be either lacking or lead to frametime/stuttering issues. If you do go with a Titan X Pascal, then you can lower the PSU to a 650 or 750 watt version of the EVGA G2.

Consider going with a smaller case if you are sticking with an mATX sized motherboard or switch the motherboard to an ATX size if you want to stick with the R5 case. Personally, I think the Define R5 is great, but there's little point in having mATX motherboard going into a larger ATX case like that. You don't get the advantage of a smaller motherboard if the case it's going in is big, at least I think.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.33 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($205.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($679.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($679.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($118.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($98.99 @ My Choice Software)
Monitor: Acer Predator X34 34.0" 100Hz Monitor ($1248.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $4260.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-20 13:36 EDT-0400

Here's my more ideal version if I kept the Define R5 case, but changed motherboard, GPU, PSU, etc. as well as adding the 960 Pro when it releases.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.33 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($98.99 @ My Choice Software)
Monitor: Acer Predator X34 34.0" 100Hz Monitor ($1248.99 @ Best Buy)
Other: Titan X Pascal ($1200.00)
Total: $4080.24
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-20 13:55 EDT-0400
 

LilJoka

Member
What tips would you have in general? I was just going to tidy the cables up when I get home with cable ties. The heatsink sits half under the drivebay and half open.

I have two Scythe Gentle Typhoons set up, one is an intake (paired with just a stock fan that came with the case) and the exhaust on side closest is the second Typhoon. Is this the most efficient set up?

I don't know if I just did a dodgy job with the the thermal paste or maybe it is where it is situated in my room.

Some more bad pictures from last night:


Obviously its a bit different with all the stuff in it now but the area just in front of the PSU is a rats nest of cables, possibly affecting the exhaust possibilities.

You are not running an exhaust fan? You definitely need 1 atleast.
 
Planning on picking up a PS4 pro next month to complement my PC but having an issue. I have an ASUS VG248QE monitor which my PC (DVI) is hooked to but would also like to have the PS4 hooked up to it (HDMI). Thing is currently I have external speakers hooked to the PC rather than using the monitors speakers because they well aren't that great lol. I'd also like the PS4 to utilize the speakers. Currently I just have amp hooked directly to my PC which works fine. I tried running an aux cable from the monitor to PC and then hooking the speakers to the headphone jack on the monitor but only the right speaker works and it's not very loud. Anyone know what's up?

bump
 
You are not running an exhaust fan? You definitely need 1 atleast.

No I do have one.

Well I got home anyway and for some reason it's fine. Not that I'm complaining.

CPU whilst playing games is between 60-65c and my R9 Nano is 77-79c (with fan at 100% which is fine as it isn't that loud). Will have to set up a custom fan profile for it.

Will maybe pick up some 80mm fans just to help a little more. As an experiment anyway.

Over the weekend I'll fiddle around with the fan configuration and see if that makes any difference too.
 

FFMafia

Member
So I've been doing some research, and I want the Z170a MPower Gaming Titanium, and I looked up the CPU cooler noctua D15 and in their support page they list the XPower version of the board having a slight issue where I would have to use the second slot due to the massive cooler. They haven't updated the page for the Mpower (understandable since it's newer). The Mpower has less slots but slighter better spaced out I believe, worried about the space issue. Any thoughts?

Secondly, this board says 16x only or 8x/8x but does the first pci slot only use 16X speed, or if I'm forced to use the second slot down (only using a single video card solution) as long as I'm only using one slot the second slot would also make use of the 16x? Does this vary from board to board? Thanks a bunch ladies and gentlemen.
 

Mr Cola

Brothas With Attitude / The Wrong Brotha to Fuck Wit / Die Brotha Die / Brothas in Paris
Use Macrium Reflect to clone the drive. And you can just use the refresh option in Windows and set it to basically a factory state, but keep your files.



Check the SMART info for the drive, that will probably give you an idea. At that age HDD failure isn't unlikely though.



Since you aren't overclocking, just find a B150 or H170 board that has the features you want in the correct form factor (ATX, microATX, ITX).

Stock cooler will be fine but probably noisy under load.

Ok, that is most likely the reason Windows is slow. Get a SSD. You can you cloning software or you can just reinstall a fresh copy using an USB drive.

What SSD would you guys suggest for £100-150
 

Mr Cola

Brothas With Attitude / The Wrong Brotha to Fuck Wit / Die Brotha Die / Brothas in Paris
At a glance, I'd probably go with this Crucial MX300. Good brand, 750GB. A similarly priced Samsung would be 500GB and faster, but I'd take more space over more speed. Either would be a such a big improvement over a HDD that the difference in speed is negligible.

Nice, they have a 525gb version for 109 which seems good value, im a novice at all this stuff so i hope its smooth sailing cloning windows over and restarting it, hopefully this fixes all the computer lag im getting also, which is getting a little silly in games at the moment.
 

LilJoka

Member
No I do have one.

Well I got home anyway and for some reason it's fine. Not that I'm complaining.

CPU whilst playing games is between 60-65c and my R9 Nano is 77-79c (with fan at 100% which is fine as it isn't that loud). Will have to set up a custom fan profile for it.

Will maybe pick up some 80mm fans just to help a little more. As an experiment anyway.

Over the weekend I'll fiddle around with the fan configuration and see if that makes any difference too.

If that's just a PSU exhaust, then add another. A proper exhaust flow is key to keeping temps under control. A case like this should be setup for negative pressure (more exhaust flow than intake). That will keep the internals colder and keep fresh air being drawn in without hot air having a chance to be regurgitated.
 

Nakazato

Member
I know where the issues of air flow would be coming from.

This is a poor picture I took last night so excuse my legs.



I mean it's pretty obvious what you could say needs to be improved but it can't because of the form factor of the case.

Running a Prime95 test gets me to around 85c on average. I presume with the inclusion of the GPU pumping heat into the case it could easily get hotter.

One of the cores was hotter by between 2-4 Celsius consistently but I think that is within acceptable levels.

I'll have to fiddle around when I get back from work.
Could you post specs please ?
 

cskippy

Neo Member
Planning on picking up a PS4 pro next month to complement my PC but having an issue. I have an ASUS VG248QE monitor which my PC (DVI) is hooked to but would also like to have the PS4 hooked up to it (HDMI). Thing is currently I have external speakers hooked to the PC rather than using the monitors speakers because they well aren't that great lol. I'd also like the PS4 to utilize the speakers. Currently I just have amp hooked directly to my PC which works fine. I tried running an aux cable from the monitor to PC and then hooking the speakers to the headphone jack on the monitor but only the right speaker works and it's not very loud. Anyone know what's up?


Sounds like you need a DAC. You have two digital signals that need to be processed to analog before going to your speakers.

I'm a big fan of Schiit Audio products because of their price to performance ratio. Take a look at the Modi 2 Uber. It's $149 and offers USB, Toslink (optical), and Coax SPDIF. If your budget allows it, I would also suggest going for the Multibit version. I use the Gungnir Multibit and it's just outstanding!
 
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