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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Question guys.

I just got the Phanteks Evolv ITX case and I need some help deciding how to get the best airflow going. This is the setup I've nearly decided on:

l1KFxFo.jpg


This build presents some challenges. Chiefly, the GPU does not exhaust out of the back of the case AND there's very little clearance between the bottom of the GPU and the basement that houses the PSU. The basement is perforated as you can see here:


But the PSU and Hard Drives bump up pretty close to the top of the basement as well. To mitigate this as much as possible I went with the shortest PSU I could find that wasn't SFX (as this case doesn't accommodate SFX and high wattage SFX PSU's seem to be iffy from a quality standpoint.)

In addition, both HDD slots are occupied which impedes airflow from the lower most front intake. Example:



Lastly, this is the front of the case:
oE8Tbbq.jpg


All air that comes into the case from the front has to come in through slits in the side of the front. No perforation as you can see.

So with all of these things in mind I chose the Noctua fans because they're high static pressure. I would think this will help due to the closed nature of the case and the obstructions therein (HDDs). I stuck with the same fan as an exhaust because they're PWM so I should be able to crank it down to achieve lower noise.

I guess my question is, what do you folks think? Is there anything I can improve here? Would it make a significant difference replacing the H100i V2 fans with Noctua fans?

Top should be exhaust, not intake. PSU should be pulling cold air from the bottom. Noctua fans will be quieter than the Corsair ones.
 

kakashi08

Member
Getting BF1 but before I do, because I will be playing a lot. I want to be sure it'll run on my pc with high settings at 1080p, if not max.

I was thinking upgrade the RAM to 16gb.

What about the GPU, will i be okay with it? Played the beta, ran smooth on high.

Build:
GeForce GTX 780 3GB
Core i7-3770K
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB
SAMSUNG 840 Pro
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77
CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-750TX 750W
Monitor:benq xl2420t
 

Tanston

Member
Then you should go for the 6600k or non-k. Price v performance on a 6700 isn't really worth it unless you're utilizing hyperthreading i.e. 3D or video rendering etc...

My favorite type of games tend to be CPU heavy stuff like cities skylines if that makes a difference. My main reason aside from budget for not wanting to overclock is just simplicity. I figure not overclocking means less things I can potentially get wrong if I went with the locked chip it would just use the stock cooler and not worry about thermal paste etc was part of my potentially flawed thought process. I really am not too keen on worrying about cooling.
 

vector824

Member
My favorite type of games tend to be CPU heavy stuff like cities skylines if that makes a difference. My main reason aside from budget for not wanting to overclock is just simplicity. I figure not overclocking means less things I can potentially get wrong if I went with the locked chip it would just use the stock cooler and not worry about thermal paste etc was part of my potentially flawed thought process. I really am not too keen on worrying about cooling.

Well if you have the money and want to go for it then the 6700 is probably fine, especially if you're confident you wont mess with it. Make sure you still get a Z-170 mobo to take advantage of 2400 or 3000mhz RAM.
 

Mozendo

Member
So thanks to blly155 who helped me with the case of replacing my dying PSU I was finally able to replace it. I took advantage of Newegg's PSU sale, I really wanted to snag an EVGA 650w, but it had $8, so instead I went with the SeaSonic X-650w for what ended up being $65 after MIR.

So far so good, incredibly quiet too.
 

Arkanius

Member
Top should be exhaust, not intake. PSU should be pulling cold air from the bottom. Noctua fans will be quieter than the Corsair ones.

I disagree.
More intake gives you a positive air pressure which keeps the dust outside the case.
Also you should take cold air through the radiator which is what he is doing. The hot air will go out quickly through the exhaust without ruining the balance of the temperature inside the case.
 

I_D

Member
I have a weird question, and I can't find anything on Google.

I'm in the process of planning and building a pc-in-desk project.
My question is how far does a 120mm fan actually blow, with essentially no resistance, and how far does a 120mm pull air from with no resistance? Assume we're talking high-quality fans, so they'll be about as powerful as 120mm can get.

I need to figure out if my air is going to be moving or if it'll end up creating doldrums.


This is my current thought, but I'm definitely open to any suggestions.


Each cutout will be two 120mm fans.

I'm open to suggestions on moving the cutouts, as well.
 

Dio

Banned
GUYS! S340 ELITE IS IN STOCK IN A US-SHIPPING STORE!

https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=CA-S340WB3

After shipping it's only 10 dollars more than if you bought it from NZXT's site, but there you go.

On the NZXT site they estimate the soonest time they can ship out black S340 Elites is the 25th of god damn November.

I've been pathologically refreshing all my favorite sites over the last few days hoping to see the S340 elite get in stock somewhere that isn't in the EU.
 
I disagree.
More intake gives you a positive air pressure which keeps the dust outside the case.
Also you should take cold air through the radiator which is what he is doing. The hot air will go out quickly through the exhaust without ruining the balance of the temperature inside the case.

I disagree, those coolers pump out ALOT of hot air, and without enough exhaust most of it will stay in the case, heating up all the other components. In a small case like that the gpu will be sucking up mostly hot air. If he was able to mount it in the front and have exhaust fans on the top that might work, but it's better to have a top mounted rad act as an exhaust I'm pretty sure it's been tested and proven to be true.
 
I don't see any issues with that setup. However I would replace the stock Corsair fans with static pressure Noctuas (and maybe replace the stock exhaust fan). Another thing - are your air intakes behind filters? Personally I would be more concerned with dust ingestion.

I think your 1080 will be fine with that setup tbh. What you might want to do is set up your 140mm fans to be connected as fans 3 and 4 with your Corsair H100i and create a curve in Corsair with them linked to GPU temp.

The front intake is filtered, the slits on the top are behind finely perforated mesh.

The top airflow is very restricted too unfortunately. That mesh is very tight and the slits are very small.

How do I set up the curve you speak of? Software and hardware wise. Header wise the MoBo only has two of them. One CPU and one system. I bought this to get around that.

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/?tag=neogaf0e-20

It's supposedly PWM but I can't control the fans nor can I see how many RPMs the fans are spinning at. All the fans are PWM, all the inputs on the above adapter are 4 pin but the cable that goes from the header (4 pin) to the adapter only has two wires.

The top should be used as an exhaust with the fans pushing. The noctua fans will help more with noise, those corsair's can get loud at high rpm.

Top should be exhaust, not intake. PSU should be pulling cold air from the bottom. Noctua fans will be quieter than the Corsair ones.

It's whatever the default orientation of the PSU is. Whatever you said must be what it's doing.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
I disagree, those coolers pump out ALOT of hot air, and without enough exhaust most of it will stay in the case, heating up all the other components. In a small case like that the gpu will be sucking up mostly hot air. If he was able to mount it in the front and have exhaust fans on the top that might work, but it's better to have a top mounted rad act as an exhaust I'm pretty sure it's been tested and proven to be true.

Cases aren't airtight, all the air being pumped into the case with positive pressure has to go somewhere. Unless your fans are poorly positioned warm air should be pushed out via exhaust fans and any gaps and vents.

That said, it's good to have directed airflow. If I were using that case I'd probably only use four fans, two front intake, rear exhaust, and top back exhaust. I'd probably also block the top front unless the intake fans are bringing in more air than the exhaust fans are exhausting. With negative pressure the warm air getting exhausted out the top would just get cycled back into the case, plus dust.


Just don't be like me and put a fan in backwards that is extremely difficult to reach.
 
Just a heads-up, Dell is having a sale on monitors right now through 10/31....buy one get one half off. Just picked up two of their 24" 1440p/165hz/g-sync monitors for right at $700 after tax. After signing up for their free premier service, I got free 2-day expedited shipping and 5% back via Dell store coupon.
 

Abhor

Member
Since I see posts on fans and airflow here's a question. I have a NZXT 410 phantom case. Still using the 120mm front intake, 120mm rear exhaust, and 140mm top rear exhaust. I added a second 140mm exhaust at the top. CPU has a Hyper 212 Evo with a fan intaking air, pushing air through the heatsink. PSU intaking air from bottom as well.

Any suggestions on changing fan position, or positive vs negative pressure? FX-8350, 4.5 Ghz, hits 55-58℃ on 100% usage. Not really sure if I can do anything to improve it.
 
Cases aren't airtight, all the air being pumped into the case with positive pressure has to go somewhere. Unless your fans are poorly positioned warm air should be pushed out via exhaust fans and any gaps and vents.

That said, it's good to have directed airflow. If I were using that case I'd probably only use four fans, two front intake, rear exhaust, and top back exhaust. I'd probably also block the top front unless the intake fans are bringing in more air than the exhaust fans are exhausting. With negative pressure the warm air getting exhausted out the top would just get cycled back into the case, plus dust.


Just don't be like me and put a fan in backwards that is extremely difficult to reach.

Hot air will build up in the case due to the amount of hot air being pumped in. I realize that cases aren't airtight but AIOs dump alot of hot air and if flow of air going inside the case is so much more than what's going out, heat will build up inside the case. Under most circumstances he's not going to notice I guess but anytime he's stressing the CPU, gpu temps will not be good at all with a top mounted intake.

Also in the guys case if he had the top mount aio as an intake the hot air being pumped out some of it is going to rise and feed hot air back into the cooler, which basically defeats the purpose of having it as an intake to begin with. There's a reason why manufacturers suggest using a top mounted radiator as an exhaust.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Hot air will build up in the case due to the amount of hot air being pumped in. I realize that cases aren't airtight but AIOs dump alot of hot air and if flow of air going inside the case is so much more than what's going out, heat will build up inside the case. Under most circumstances he's not going to notice I guess but anytime he's stressing the CPU, gpu temps will not be good at all with a top mounted intake.

Also in the guys case if he had the top mount aio as an intake the hot air being pumped out some of it is going to rise and feed hot air back into the cooler, which basically defeats the purpose of having it as an intake to begin with. There's a reason why manufacturers suggest using a top mounted radiator as an exhaust.

I guess I should have actually looked at what he was doing, the AIO makes a difference. Using a 240mm AIO in that case is a losing proposition regardless, since he can't put it on the front.


I'd go with a thick rad 120mm like a H80 or Liquid Freezer 120 assuming they fit, and probably try some wonky shit like having it on the top front as exhaust. Then have front intake and the top back and rear fans as exhaust.
 
I guess I should have actually looked at what he was doing, the AIO makes a difference. Using a 240mm AIO in that case is a losing proposition regardless, since he can't put it on the front.

I agree with you it's best to have it as an intake in front, in fact that's how my aio (h110) is setup. but having it setup as an exhaust is ok, it really isn't a super big difference. It just matters if you are picky about afew degrees.


It's whatever the default orientation of the PSU is. Whatever you said must be what it's doing.

We were talking about your h100i, and the direction you should face the fans. Imho they should be setup on the inside of the case and blowing air out, not in. You can see what I said about it a few posts earlier, but I believe it's better to make it an exhaust corsair also recommends it unless you have sufficient exhaust flow.
 

Bloodember

Member
I disagree, those coolers pump out ALOT of hot air, and without enough exhaust most of it will stay in the case, heating up all the other components. In a small case like that the gpu will be sucking up mostly hot air. If he was able to mount it in the front and have exhaust fans on the top that might work, but it's better to have a top mounted rad act as an exhaust I'm pretty sure it's been tested and proven to be true.
I have that case with a computer in the house with the top radiator as an intake just like his picture. It actually keeps the system very cool. I also have a Manta with a radiator at the top in exhaust configuration and they basically are at the same temperatures.
 
I have that case with a computer in the house with the top radiator as an intake just like his picture. It actually keeps the system very cool. I also have a Manta with a radiator at the top in exhaust configuration and they basically are at the same temperatures.

And your gpu temps are ok? I can not believe that they are as good as if it was setup as an exhaust but if you have it setup like that I guess I can't argue.
 

Bloodember

Member
And your gpu temps are ok? I can not believe that they are as good as if it was setup as an exhaust but if you have it setup like that I guess I can't argue.
Yes, it's a Asus strix 970, at idle it's around 35c load it's 60-70c. Hell the fans don't turn on till 50c.

My Manta has a RX 480 and the temps are 35-45c at idle.
 

Gnomist

Member
Hey all. I'm at the point where I'm ready to build something completely new. I've only built a PC myself once before about 5 years ago. That was a mostly painless process but I'd still consider myself uneducated in all the ways a person can be in terms of a PC. I have a couple questions that I'm hoping some of the knowledgeable people here would be able to help me with.

Firstly, my plan is to build something from scratch and leave my existing PC intact. I'm fine with using my existing video card for a bit if a deal is likely to come around soon. The PC will primarily be for gaming. I plan on buying a new monitor (or two) at some point in the future but I will prioritize fps over resolution. Maybe that will change once I see some higher resolution monitors in person, but for now the plan is 1080p 60fps.

Looking over the OP I'm comfortable rounding up parts listed in the "Excellent" build. My first question is whether or not there are obvious changes to those parts that would make a meaningful difference in either price or power? Is everything listed there as good of a recommendation as when the list was updated in July?
 
Yes, it's a Asus strix 970, at idle it's around 35c load it's 60-70c. Hell the fans don't turn on till 50c.

My Manta has a RX 480 and the temps are 35-45c at idle.

That really goes against conventional wisdom because the hot air is being blown directly into the gpu, but I can't argue if you have results that say otherwise. Have you ever tested the aio in the phanteks as an exhaust?
 

Bloodember

Member
That really goes against conventional wisdom because the hot air is being blown directly into the gpu, but I can't argue if you have results that say otherwise. Have you ever tested the aio in the phanteks as an exhaust?
No, it's my brothers, he's always had his radiator as an intake. His old computer he had it the same way.
 
I agree with you it's best to have it as an intake in front, in fact that's how my aio (h110) is setup. but having it setup as an exhaust is ok, it really isn't a super big difference. It just matters if you are picky about afew degrees.




We were talking about your h100i, and the direction you should face the fans. Imho they should be setup on the inside of the case and blowing air out, not in. You can see what I said about it a few posts earlier, but I believe it's better to make it an exhaust corsair also recommends it unless you have sufficient exhaust flow.

I figured two two excellent fan intakes in front and an excellent rear exhaust that airflow through the case should be sufficient to deal with the hot air coming from the rad.

What do you think is going on with my case fan speed control/PWM situation tho?
 

Iorv3th

Member
As for top fans being intake/exhaust. My Lian Li came with the top as exhaust and it wouldn't make sense in my setup as far as I can tell to make them intake, it would only make things worse. Seems like you would be pushing directly against hot air that is rising and trying to get out the rear exhaust.

I'm not sure what I did wrong, my PC still not booting. The manual that came with the motherboard just shows the ports and a basic picture of the motherboard.

I realigned the CPU as it wasn't fitted properly at first.
Plug back the CPU fan
I made sure no Thermal Paste made only contact with the CPU
Took out and snapped the 2x4 DDR4 back in.
Took out the standoff that was stuck on the screw and fitted back into the case.
Plugged the 20+4 into the 24 Pin header
Plugged one of the 4+4 into the 4-pin ATx_12V
Plugged the Blue 3.0USB into F_USB30 and plugged in the smaller USB cable into F_USB
Plugged the HD Audio into F_Audio
Connected the Back and Front Fan into the cables from the PSU and plug it into Sys_FAN
Connected the 1TB HDD with the PSU and connected it with the motherboard with the SATA cable.
Connected Power LED + to PLED + and Power LED - to PLED-
Connected HDD LED + to HD LED+ and HDD LED to HDLED-
Power SW into PWR + - and Reset SW into RES - + and connected Speaker + - into Speaker - +.

And the only thing that turns on is the Light infront of the case when pressing the power button. I don't have a GPU yet but the I5 6500 suposdly has a Intel Graphics 530. The only that might be not working is the CPU. btw I'm using Evga 500w

Here's what it looks like

So your SYS_Fan port is connected to 2 fans that are in turn connected to your power supply directly? Only plug one fan into your sys_fan port and make sure it isn't connected to the power supply.
 

BizzyBum

Member
My monitor + PC gets so damn hot after awhile that my room is uncomfortable hot. Especially my monitor, shit is warm enough to cook eggs.

Besides having my AC on 24/7, is there something I can do?
 
My monitor + PC gets so damn hot after awhile that my room is uncomfortable hot. Especially my monitor, shit is warm enough to cook eggs.

Besides having my AC on 24/7, is there something I can do?

PC specs? What's the ambient temperature?

Weird hearing about the monitor being hot, that's a new one... what monitor is it?
 

Mozendo

Member
My monitor + PC gets so damn hot after awhile that my room is uncomfortable hot. Especially my monitor, shit is warm enough to cook eggs.

Besides having my AC on 24/7, is there something I can do?

Can you post your computer parts (with fans) and monitor model?
 
I disagree.
More intake gives you a positive air pressure which keeps the dust outside the case.
Also you should take cold air through the radiator which is what he is doing. The hot air will go out quickly through the exhaust without ruining the balance of the temperature inside the case.

He could run the exhaust fans slower. A better choice would be to run the CPU cooler as an intake and have a single exhaust. Close that roof.
 
I figured two two excellent fan intakes in front and an excellent rear exhaust that airflow through the case should be sufficient to deal with the hot air coming from the rad.

What do you think is going on with my case fan speed control/PWM situation tho?

What mobo are you getting? Asus has good bios and software control of pwm fans. Or you could control them via the corsair link software included with the cooler. You would hook the splitter up directly with the cooler in that case. Those fans should be good but tbh I dont know too much about case fans.
 

BizzyBum

Member
PC specs? What's the ambient temperature?

Weird hearing about the monitor being hot, that's a new one... what monitor is it?

Can you post your computer parts (with fans) and monitor model?

Monitor is the Acer Predator XB271HK (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MYTF4W/?tag=neogaf0e-20). Does the monitor run extra hot because it's 4K? Maybe the brightness level is too high?

PC is an i7 6800K @ 3.4GHz with a GTX 1080. My cooler is kinda crap. It's a Cool It Eco which came with the PC already but looking to upgrade soon. (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835227006)

My CPU does run hot and at hours of gaming can reach around 80c. GPU can get around the same. Idle temps are fine.
 
He could run the exhaust fans slower. A better choice would be to run the CPU cooler as an intake and have a single exhaust. Close that roof.

I can see this is the sort of thing there probably won't be a consensus about. :p

For me, GPU temps are the biggest concern. I'd like to get the noise down as well but unfortunately with this case, due to its rather solid nature (not porous, all air into the case has to come in through small slits blocked up by filters)


Those slits are what air has to pass through on the top.

Edit: I'm debating ditching the H100i V2 and going with the Noctua NH-D15 instead. It's a beast of a cooler and it WILL fit inside this mITX case believe it or not. However, one of the fans needs to be elevated in order to clear the CPU power cable. It also makes it impossible to install an exhaust fan.

This is the standard EVOLV non ITX case. In the ITX version the cooler is about an inch or so of clearance with the exhaust holes. Maybe a slim fan would fit, maybe it wouldn't be necessary? I mean, look at this heatsink and the fans on this bad boy:

Is an exhaust fan really necessary if this is backed right up against the back of the exhaust vent? Again, the biggest concern I have is what this does to GPU temps. Obviously CPU temps are important but I don't want to dump a bunch of heat into the case that can't be directed out of the back, or block airflow from the GPU from being able to escape.
 
Monitor is the Acer Predator XB271HK (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MYTF4W/?tag=neogaf0e-20). Does the monitor run extra hot because it's 4K? Maybe the brightness level is too high?

PC is an i7 6800K @ 3.4GHz with a GTX 1080. My cooler is kinda crap. It's a Cool It Eco which came with the PC already but looking to upgrade soon. (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835227006)

My CPU does run hot and at hours of gaming can reach around 80c. GPU can get around the same. Idle temps are fine.

Whoops my reply disappeared.

Anyway, GPU is fine. CPU, get a new cooler. It's probably running more vcore than is necessary anyway.

Monitor, that's a new one to me. I'd check reviews/google it to see if it's common for that model. It's probably fine. What case are you using? Got a picture of the inside? Might have the CPU cooler pointed the wrong way too.
 
I think my PSU is emitting a really sharp whining noise.

Does anyone have experience with this? Bummer if I have to RMA, I'll be out of commission for weeks!
 

BizzyBum

Member
Whoops my reply disappeared.

Anyway, GPU is fine. CPU, get a new cooler. It's probably running more vcore than is necessary anyway.

Monitor, that's a new one to me. I'd check reviews/google it to see if it's common for that model. It's probably fine. What case are you using? Got a picture of the inside? Might have the CPU cooler pointed the wrong way too.

Any recommendation on coolers? Would be looking to OC my 6800K to like 4.2 or 4.3 and have it be around 60c when gaming.

For my monitor I'll try turning the brightness down. It might be close to max right now.
 
I can see this is the sort of thing there probably won't be a consensus about. :p

For me, GPU temps are the biggest concern. I'd like to get the noise down as well but unfortunately with this case, due to its rather solid nature (not porous, all air into the case has to come in through small slits blocked up by filters)



Those slits are what air has to pass through on the top.

Edit: I'm debating ditching the H100i V2 and going with the Noctua NH-D15 instead. It's a beast of a cooler and it WILL fit inside this mITX case believe it or not. However, one of the fans needs to be elevated in order to clear the CPU power cable. It also makes it impossible to install an exhaust fan.

This is the standard EVOLV non ITX case. In the ITX version the cooler is about an inch or so of clearance with the exhaust holes. Maybe a slim fan would fit, maybe it wouldn't be necessary? I mean, look at this heatsink and the fans on this bad boy:


Is an exhaust fan really necessary if this is backed right up against the back of the exhaust vent? Again, the biggest concern I have is what this does to GPU temps. Obviously CPU temps are important but I don't want to dump a bunch of heat into the case that can't be directed out of the back, or block airflow from the GPU from being able to escape.

The D15 is a much better idea. If this is the original Evolv mATX, you can absolutely fit the D15 with an exhaust fan. So ideally your setup would be two 140mm intakes, one 140mm exhaust, and the D15 blowing across its heatsinks toward the exhaust.
 
The D15 is a much better idea. If this is the original Evolv mATX, you can absolutely fit the D15 with an exhaust fan. So ideally your setup would be two 140mm intakes, one 140mm exhaust, and the D15 blowing across its heatsinks toward the exhaust.

my case is the itx. it will fit the noctua but not with enough space to still fit an exhaust fan. the heat sink will be about an inch or so from the exhaust vent. the question is in the post: how much does this really matter since the heat sink is only an inch or so away from venting straight out of the case AND does this create a situation where the cooler can't do a good job in such an enclosed situation due to hot air from the GPU feeding into the CPU heatsink.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
my case is the itx. it will fit the noctua but not with enough space to still fit an exhaust fan. the heat sink will be about an inch or so from the exhaust vent. the question is in the post: how much does this really matter since the heat sink is only an inch or so away from venting straight out of the case AND does this create a situation where the cooler can't do a good job in such an enclosed situation due to hot air from the GPU feeding into the CPU heatsink.

If you have good positive pressure you would be fine without the exhaust fan. A slim fan may also be an option.
 
my case is the itx. it will fit the noctua but not with enough space to still fit an exhaust fan. the heat sink will be about an inch or so from the exhaust vent. the question is in the post: how much does this really matter since the heat sink is only an inch or so away from venting straight out of the case AND does this create a situation where the cooler can't do a good job in such an enclosed situation due to hot air from the GPU feeding into the CPU heatsink.

I misunderstood. In that case, I'd go with the NH-U14s and an exhaust fan instead of the D15 without one. Your GPU will be better served by exhausting more case air and the cpu temps between the two Noctua coolers will be minor.
 

Vipu

Banned
I have a weird question, and I can't find anything on Google.

I'm in the process of planning and building a pc-in-desk project.
My question is how far does a 120mm fan actually blow, with essentially no resistance, and how far does a 120mm pull air from with no resistance? Assume we're talking high-quality fans, so they'll be about as powerful as 120mm can get.

I need to figure out if my air is going to be moving or if it'll end up creating doldrums.


This is my current thought, but I'm definitely open to any suggestions.



Each cutout will be two 120mm fans.

I'm open to suggestions on moving the cutouts, as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyreJvig3KA
 

I_D

Member

I'm basing my design largely on Linus' actually. Unfortunately he doesn't have part 2 up, and he hasn't really shown how he sets up his components.

I really don't like the asymmetry he's planning with his mobo on the side and his components spread around, so I'm hoping for something a bit more aesthetic.

I think I'm figuring it out though. I'm going to try out my idea, but leave room for partitions within the desktop which would allow me to install more fans if needed.
 

Kame

Member
This is actually a really good list, I've saw a couple that has a decent discount on the processors though in Microcenter..
 
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