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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I had it. It's very very nice, awesome build quality, has the best sensor, works great in wireless mode and has by far the best and most crisp clicks.
I switched to the G403 however, as I found the G900 too long and hard to grip. It will be palm grip unless you have larger hands, like 19cm+.
The G403 is identical except uses the standard click mechanism which is still great. It's a bit shorter too and has grippier sides.
Well it's about time for me to build my first PC, so
Your Current Specs:None
Budget: Targeting $1500, but willing to splurge up to $2000. Located in the US
Main Use:Gaming with with just the bog-standard non-gaming applications.
Monitor Resolution: I don't see myself really trying for 4K very often, mostly 1080 the vast majority of the time. However, I do hope to play my consoles on the monitor as well.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Well what I really want to do is shove about 500 mods up Skyrim's ass but that probably doesn't require any specific parts.Generally I would hope for 60 FPS solid.
Looking to reuse any parts?: N/A since first PC, but I suppose I'm hoping to make the 1080 the centerpiece
When will you build?: Before the end of the year, preferably as soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Nope
Nice computer, but seems kind of overkill if you just want 1080p/60fps.
You should be able to get a i5-6600k, GTX 1060 or 1070 build for around $800-1000. Get a decent 24" 1080p IPS monitor for $150. Get a nice mouse and mechanical keyboard for $150-200 if you want to splurge a bit more. Save your monies on games.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212X 82.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($151.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($408.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer G247HYL bmidx 23.8" 60Hz Monitor ($140.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1299.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-24 04:18 EDT-0400
I threw this together pretty quick, somebody should check it and see if they can get better value or use better parts. If you want 1440p, GTX 1070 is ok, GTX 1080 would last you a bit longer. Windows 10 available at Reddit for $40 if you want to do the installation yourself.
Yep pretty nice... if he has another $70-100, get the i5-6500 (3.2Ghz instead of 2.7Ghz) and the 6gb GTX 1060 if you can get it for around $200. You might be able to get a deal somehow with the case and power supply to save some money. Get the Sandisk PLUS (my preference) over the Kingston V300... heard the read/write speeds are kinda crappy for basically the same price as the Sandisk.
Since I just recently upgraded my PC (new mobo and ram + i7-6700k and a Noctua NH-U9B-SE2 cooler) and for the first time ever had to think about the cooling a bit (fan directions etc), I figured I'd test the system a bit and did the prime95 v26.6 small FFTs torture test. After 45 minutes of continuous torture the highest the temps had gotten according to SpeedFan was 51 degrees Celsius which sounds really low, considering I really know very little about cooling and just sort of slapped everything together.
Does 51C peak sound abnormally low (like it's not reporting the temps right or something) or did I just get lucky?
Does 51C peak sound abnormally low (like it's not reporting the temps right or something) or did I just get lucky?
Jezbollah
Member
51c peak sounds pretty good - but you really need an ambient temperature to make a delta to really gauge how good that is. If you have an ambient of 25c to 30c i'd say you're doing very well.
The easy thing to think about fans are that they have arrow indicators on them to show which way the fans spin, and which way they will push air. All you really need to factor in is the amount of air you are drawing in and out, which way you do it, and if you are using dust filters. Even then, you will do well to get a few degrees off that 51c peak. Nice job!
Speaking of cooling, in the near future I'll be jumping back in here to ask what sort of OC I should do with a 6600k and a Cryorig H7 in an S340 Elite. You know, settings and speed and all that. I have to wait for all three of those things to actually arrive, though.
I've never actually OCed any of my systems before now, never had a 'K'.
I've never actually OCed any of my systems before now, never had a 'K'.
Cool (har har), thanks! I'll check out the ambient temps when I have the time hopefully today or tomorrow and report back if they seem too high.
So guys I have a problem deciding so would like some help.
I currently have a qnix 27" 1440p monitor but would love to enter the ultra wide world and so began looking... The predator and rog are about £400 out of my budget so I began to look at the z35 and BenQ xr35.
The problem is they are stepping back to 1080p although they do offer 144hz.
Is stepping back a resolution something I should avoid? Should I save up more? Do it?
Help.
I currently have a qnix 27" 1440p monitor but would love to enter the ultra wide world and so began looking... The predator and rog are about £400 out of my budget so I began to look at the z35 and BenQ xr35.
The problem is they are stepping back to 1080p although they do offer 144hz.
Is stepping back a resolution something I should avoid? Should I save up more? Do it?
Help.
Fachasaurus
Member
Does anyone know when the i7 7XXX K series will be available to purchase?
I just bought the 6700K and then saw an article on the Kabylake? Is it coming soon or like a few months out?
I just bought the 6700K and then saw an article on the Kabylake? Is it coming soon or like a few months out?
Fachasaurus
Member
Personally, I would save up some more if I were you. That resolution with that 35 inch screen does not look pretty, even with 144hz.
I am more sensitive to lower screen DPI than I am to refresh rate. 60hz is the most I would need, but the extra screen real estate and clarity are why the ultra wide monitors are so amazing.
OK I guess that answers that, cheers.
Big Chungus
Member
Guys I need help deciding between these two video cards:
EVGA FTW 1070
http://www.ncix.com/detail/evga-geforce-gtx-1070-ftw-89-133336.htm
or MSI Gaming X
http://www.ncix.com/detail/msi-geforce-gtx-1070-twin-76-132423.htm
Need a card thats quiet and can fit in my Bitfenix Prodigy ITX case.
EVGA FTW 1070
http://www.ncix.com/detail/evga-geforce-gtx-1070-ftw-89-133336.htm
or MSI Gaming X
http://www.ncix.com/detail/msi-geforce-gtx-1070-twin-76-132423.htm
Need a card thats quiet and can fit in my Bitfenix Prodigy ITX case.
Hi guys,
I have to build an office PC (convinced my boss that a laptop is not necessary and way more expensive when the computer itself will always be in the same spot).
Do you have suggestions for CPU / Graphics to put in that rig that would eventually really surprise my boss cause of low cost and good office performance?
By office performance I mean just the use of Office, Chrome and some music here and there. We want to buy a new monitor aswell to exchange that 1024x768 four by four crap.
Thank you guys in advance.
I have to build an office PC (convinced my boss that a laptop is not necessary and way more expensive when the computer itself will always be in the same spot).
Do you have suggestions for CPU / Graphics to put in that rig that would eventually really surprise my boss cause of low cost and good office performance?
By office performance I mean just the use of Office, Chrome and some music here and there. We want to buy a new monitor aswell to exchange that 1024x768 four by four crap.
Thank you guys in advance.
JonnyDBrit
Member
The EVGA is the shorter of the two cards by about a centimetre. However both of them are over 240mm in length, which from what I can find is the maximum that particular case allows. That's if you remove the drive cage too. You'd need something more like:
http://www.ncix.com/products/sku/134438/1685
Though I couldn't tell you on noise and the like.
intheinbetween
Member
I was torn between those two graphic cards and I finally went for the EVGA FTW 1070. So far I haven't experienced any issue, however I should let you know that it requires 2 x 8pin (6+2 or just 8) PSU connectors, otherwise the system won't boot.
An i3 with 8GB RAM and a 128GB or 256GB SSD will do fine. You don't need any graphics card as the integrated one will handle everything you want to do with ease. You could build a small computer easily enough, or even use an i5 NUC/Brix.
Jezbollah
Member
It must need that juice. I have the EVGA Hybrid 1070 and that only uses 1 x PCIe power (8pin). My old 780ti needed two so it wasnt an issue.
TheVoidDragon
Member
I'm really having trouble finding a replacement mouse for my Anker 8200 DPI mouse (the scroll wheel on it broke, no way to fix it), those have now been discountinued so i can't just buy another. I'm after something for around £15 with a braided cable, weights, a few extra buttons and at least 6000 DPI (and software to change it). Anyone know of anything?
There's the DLAND ZELOTES T90 but that doesn't come with actual programmable DPI as far as i know (just a toggle between the pre-set ones) and it only has a 3 month guarantee which is pretty pathetic.
There's the DLAND ZELOTES T90 but that doesn't come with actual programmable DPI as far as i know (just a toggle between the pre-set ones) and it only has a 3 month guarantee which is pretty pathetic.
Bloodember
Member
Q1 next year.
Big Chungus
Member
do you have a bitenix prodigy case?
intheinbetween
Member
nope dude, an ATX Fractal Define R4, enough room for a GTX 1070, but not plenty
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that i5 4460 is overclockable.
Big Chungus
Member
i only have one 8 pin pcie power connector...
how would i add another? my power supply is modular but i only see 6 pin ports available.
Jezbollah
Member
If you have a modular power supply you should have been given cables marked as PCIe. What model is it so I can check?
Your other option would be to get a molex to PCIe converter and use that - however there is always a risk using a converter.
intheinbetween
Member
First you should make sure your PSU is "good enough", I mean, which PSU do you have? is it over 650w? if it's a quality PSU you could always buy a 2x4-pin molex to 1 8-pin pcie connector. I had to buy one of those because my 650w Antec NeoPower only has a 6+2 PCIE connector, and that workaround worked for me.
Sold my OG Titan X a few weeks ago to a friend of mine. I'm on X79, so no iGPU. Trying to decide what I wanna do GPU wise atm. My 4930k is enough for games, and I'm probably going told hold onto this rig until Skylake-X in Q2/Q3 2017. I will have skipped 2 CPU generations, Haswell-E/Broadwell-E, and will be on a fresh PCH. Sounds about right.
In the mean time I need to do some maintenance on my current X79 rig. Think I want to start with my cooling. I currently use push/pull on a H100i, and 3 Corsair AF fans up front in my Air 540.
I want to reduce the noise and get some better fans. Also go away from the push/pull setup. Been out of the loop on cooling, anybody have suggestions for quiet case fans and radiator fans?
In the mean time I need to do some maintenance on my current X79 rig. Think I want to start with my cooling. I currently use push/pull on a H100i, and 3 Corsair AF fans up front in my Air 540.
I want to reduce the noise and get some better fans. Also go away from the push/pull setup. Been out of the loop on cooling, anybody have suggestions for quiet case fans and radiator fans?
opticalmace
Member
I'm not sure how noisy the H100i is, but have you ever considered a big air cooler (e.g. Noctua D15)?
i put 3 noctua fans in my case and a D14 on my cpu and it runs REAL quiet and cool
shout out to the folks who recommnded it
Angry Goat
Banned
I've had both and the NH-D15 is much quieter and provides similar performance right out of the box. I was never very impressed with the complete H100i package (fans/software specifically). I'm not sure how things scale with higher OCs. The NH-D15 is big too, depending on your mobo, you may need low profile ram (or remove the heat spreaders), and your case will need to accommodate the height (from the mobo) to be able to close the door. People either love or hate the appearance, but everyone unanimously seems to enjoy the easy, intuitive install.
I just don't know if the NH-D15 is badass enough for Smokey.
intheinbetween
Member
Uhm it's an efficent PSU, just get the adaptor I told you in my previous post, it shoud work.
I respect big air coolers, but I prefer the AIO solutions.
Angry Goat
Banned
Is the H100i still considered one of the top (common) CLCs? I ripped it out before I even tried it without the (awful) software - does it work well without Windows apps?
Jezbollah
Member
In my old configuration, I used a splitter and hooked up my fans directly into the CPU fan header and let the BIOS control my H100i fans - and it worked ok.
The only reason I have the Corsair Link software controlling my fans again is that I have a few more in, and want them to work based upon GPU temps.
First thing you can do is dump push/pull for solely push. Youll probably not notice the slightest difference.
Alright, I ran Prime95 small ffts for like 11 hours with 0 errors. But Battlefield 1 kept crashing after playing some time. Switched llc from Turbo to Medium which froze the PC when I was loading BF1. Switched to Extreme, which is the highest setting I think, and just played a bit without any crashes. But Extreme pushes the vcore to 1.29~1.3 under load. Isn't that way too high for just 4.4GHz? This was all with 4.4GHz and 1.28 set in BIOS.
Right so ill try to explain the problem here.
LLC will compensate Vcore depending on the load.
The higher the CPU load the more LLC will compensate.
The higher the LLC level, the even more itll compensate.
Prime95 small fft is the highest load really you can simulate, which means with high levels of LLC, we end up pushing much higher Vcore than when realistically loading the CPU, for example with a game.
So, the better way is to reduce LLC and increase the Vcore, this means the lower loads will still get Vcore levels close to that of extreme loads.
If you want to test the theory, load up Prime95 with Turbo LLC and see the load Vcore with small FFT. Then compare what the Vcore is doing when playing BF. Youll see that its lower. The ideal situation is that the vcore has little variance between various loads which all take the CPU to the highest multiplier. So you have to test this out. Its probably the High or Turbo setting which youll want.
Next up, to simulate the kind of load games exert, try this, open Prime95
Click Blend, click custom
Enter 12000MB ram (for a 16gb system)
Click OK.
This will simulate various loads and youll end up working the highest multiplier at various Vcore's. That will better simulate what the game imposes in terms of load.
Remember that reducing LLC will require the Vcore in the BIOS to be raised, as there is less compensation going on.
If you are looking to run offset Vcore then this is very important, otherwise you will end up starving the lower multipliers of vcore. The way to figure out the optimum LLC is by doing the following.
Set a reasonable OC like 4Ghz, and a Vcore of 1.25v.
Set LLC to High, check the idle Vcore and the load Vcore.
If the load vcore is higher than idle vcore, then reduce the LLC level.
You want the end result such that the load vcore is very close (or close as possible) to the idle vcore, but such that the load vcore sits right below the idle vcore. The only exception I make is if that ends up with the load vcore much lower than idle vcore, and the next LLC level would mean the load vcore is above the idle vcore, but only slightly.
Now that LLC is set, you've only got the Vcore to play with for now. Make sure the RAM is running 2133Mhz for now too.
Thanks for the builds! Regarding Windows 10, I already have it on my laptop, so I should be able to put it on a USB and install it that way for free, right? That could free up some money for other things in the build.Nice computer, but seems kind of overkill if you just want 1080p/60fps.
You should be able to get a i5-6600k, GTX 1060 or 1070 build for around $800-1000. Get a decent 24" 1080p IPS monitor for $150. Get a nice mouse and mechanical keyboard for $150-200 if you want to splurge a bit more. Save your monies on games.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212X 82.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($151.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($408.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer G247HYL bmidx 23.8" 60Hz Monitor ($140.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1299.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-24 04:18 EDT-0400
I threw this together pretty quick, somebody should check it and see if they can get better value or use better parts. If you want 1440p, GTX 1070 is ok, GTX 1080 would last you a bit longer. Windows 10 available at Reddit for $40 if you want to do the installation yourself.
Yep pretty nice... if he has another $70-100, get the i5-6500 (3.2Ghz instead of 2.7Ghz) and the 6gb GTX 1060 if you can get it for around $200. You might be able to get a deal somehow with the case and power supply to save some money. Get the Sandisk PLUS (my preference) over the Kingston V300... heard the read/write speeds are kinda crappy for basically the same price as the Sandisk.
Big Chungus
Member
I mentioned I am going to do this
And regarding the H100i, I got it some time ago. I probably need to reapply thermal paste too.
Still haven't gotten any fan recommendations! Noctua?
The Pound did drop quite a bit against the Dollar, which would increase the price...
I mentioned I am going to do this
And regarding the H100i, I got it some time ago. I probably need to reapply thermal paste too.
Still haven't gotten any fan recommendations! Noctua?
The thing is, any fan change is going to have little impact from my experience. The biggest gains can be from running the fans as slow as possible and running the bare minimum number of fans. IMO fan changes are not good value for money, but the only ones i consider are noctua or bequiet silentwings as they really are at the top of their game.
I beleive that theory comes from the fact that molex isn't rated to 150W like 8pin PCIE.
Doesn't necessarily mean dangerous, just not officially rated.
lostsupper
Banned
I mentioned I am going to do this
And regarding the H100i, I got it some time ago. I probably need to reapply thermal paste too.
Still haven't gotten any fan recommendations! Noctua?
Switching to Noctua from Corsair will definitely cut down on noise. The question is how much, given that you're reducing the number of fans as well. If you need to achieve identical temps, the two Noctuas will have to be run at a higher speed to match the cfm of the four Corsair's. If you have thermal headroom though, your best bet is probably to let your temps increase some and enjoy a much quieter build.
So yes, go with Noctua. The BeQuiet's are really quiet too, but Noctua beats them on cable length, included extensions, vibration-free mounts, etc.
styl3s
Member
This might be the right place to ask about SSD's. So, i have a 128gb ssd a friend put in when i was building a pc a couple years back for the OS and today i bought a 500GB 850 evo for gaming (and for the OS and other stuff in future build) and i downloaded the wizard software and enabled rapid mode and i am wondering if this looks about right or if i messed something up
So I just booted up my PC to play some BF1 and none of my USB ports are working. I have no idea where to even begin to try and fix this.....help me NeoGaf.
EDIT: after a few restarts the USB ports seem to be working. That being said, I would still like to know what I should do if this happens again.
Windows 10
4770K
1070
8GB RAM
As rock Fatal1ty Motherboard
EDIT: after a few restarts the USB ports seem to be working. That being said, I would still like to know what I should do if this happens again.
Windows 10
4770K
1070
8GB RAM
As rock Fatal1ty Motherboard
Big Chungus
Member
What does it mean if it's not officially rated?
- Status