I just went to a 1070 (formally on a 780ti) and have an Asus ROG 278. I'm delighted with it.
The 1070 looks to be perfect for 1440p
this makes me really happy - i am targetting high graphics / 1440p / 60 fps with my i7/1070/16gb build
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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this makes me really happy - i am targetting high graphics / 1440p / 60 fps with my i7/1070/16gb build
Cheat Code
Member
So, finished my PC at last.
Everything is working great except one stickler, my HDD. SSD is recognised and working great. My HDD, however, is not being recognised by Windows. I've looked at BIOS and it's correctly identified. I'm also fairly certain it was an option when I was choosing where to install Windows.
What have I done wrong!
(Hard drive is just a standard 2TB Toshiba. Cables were standard with the motherboard.)
Everything is working great except one stickler, my HDD. SSD is recognised and working great. My HDD, however, is not being recognised by Windows. I've looked at BIOS and it's correctly identified. I'm also fairly certain it was an option when I was choosing where to install Windows.
What have I done wrong!
(Hard drive is just a standard 2TB Toshiba. Cables were standard with the motherboard.)
ndawgdrake
Member
Would get a 1060 6gb version and another 8gb of ddr3, and cheap CPU cooler if you don't have it and oc that thing to hell.
Check Disk management. The drive probably just isn't initialized and assigned a letter by Windows.
Jezbollah
Member
Yeah, it's a pretty awesome graphics card. The Linus review benchmarks give it a good impression on what it can do.
Thank you for the advice!!!
I'm starting the full scan on Adaware now.
Gonna take an hour or two
EDIT: Scratch that, it's going to take 10 hours
Now that Battlefield 1 is out I decided to overclock my 3570K. I have the following system:
i5 3570K
GTX 1070
Z77X-D3H
Noctua NH-D15
What I am not sure about is the voltage. I fixed it at 1.195 and set the multiplier to 42 but that would freeze in BIOS already and require a CMOS reset. I'm running stock now and noticed that it goes up to 1.236 under load already. Isn't that too much for stock clocks?
i5 3570K
GTX 1070
Z77X-D3H
Noctua NH-D15
What I am not sure about is the voltage. I fixed it at 1.195 and set the multiplier to 42 but that would freeze in BIOS already and require a CMOS reset. I'm running stock now and noticed that it goes up to 1.236 under load already. Isn't that too much for stock clocks?
If we notice abnormalities at stock, we need this info:
Use CPUz to measure clock and vcore.
Use prime95 to load the CPU and note the above.
A 3570k should all core turbo to 3.4ghz.
Any more speed at stock under prime95 means the board is applying "core enhancement", causing an all core turbo speed equal to single core turbo - 3.8ghz. That would run the vcore higher than expected to garuntee stability.
I was running a 3770@4.3Ghz 1.1v load vcore. So it seems quite high.
As for the bios crash, you might need to play with load line calibration - try medium or high.
What is the ram running at?
How often are you guys updating your drivers?
I ask because I used the latest MSI 1070 drivers from their website. Then, today the Nvidia Updater asked me to update my drivers so I did - thought getting the latest was always best.
I think this is affecting performance in Forza 3 a touch (i could be paranoid)- should I be using the latest drivers posted to my manufacturer's website or trust the built-in updater?
I ask because I used the latest MSI 1070 drivers from their website. Then, today the Nvidia Updater asked me to update my drivers so I did - thought getting the latest was always best.
I think this is affecting performance in Forza 3 a touch (i could be paranoid)- should I be using the latest drivers posted to my manufacturer's website or trust the built-in updater?
Does anyone have any suggestions for monitors that match or come close to matching the Acer Predator XB271HU? I would like a triple or double monitor setup (I have two ASUS 24" with it now, but they dont match each other) that looks decent. I know I probably wont find an exact match, but something similar would be nice. I'd also consider a 34" ultrawide, but I dont think the X34 would be worth it.
I'm mostly looking for screens with a bezel that is slow like on my Acer.
I'm mostly looking for screens with a bezel that is slow like on my Acer.
funkystudent
Member
Ok random question.
Ill be OK running a unactivated version of Windows for a few weeks right? Internet says I should be fine but I just want to be 100% sure. I know Ill have a water mark and some minor restrictions until I activate it.
Ill have all the parts i need coming in the next week or so but Ill need to kick the Windows and new GPU purchases until mid November.
Ill be OK running a unactivated version of Windows for a few weeks right? Internet says I should be fine but I just want to be 100% sure. I know Ill have a water mark and some minor restrictions until I activate it.
Ill have all the parts i need coming in the next week or so but Ill need to kick the Windows and new GPU purchases until mid November.
Zombegoast
Member
It still won't turn on and made sure everything was connected properly. It's like the motherboard that I just replaced died but my USB wouldn't be turning on if it was.
Here's my current set-up.
i7 3770 (non-K, on H77 Chipset which isn't overclockable)
8GB DDR3 1600Mhz
Samsung 840 SSD
Nvidia GTX 670 2Gb
Samsung 1080p Monitor
I have two option that I'm looking at and I need some info to choose which one would be the best for me. My budget is about 500$ Canadian but I could stretch it to 600$.
What should I do,
EVGA SuperClocked Nvidia GTX 1060 6GB (06G-P4-6163-KR) = 340$
G.Skill 16GB DDR3 1600Mhz(F3-1600C10D-16GAO) = 90$
which is 500$ with Taxes. Or,
EVGA SuperClocked Nvidia GTX 1070 8GB (08G-P4-5173-KR) = 600$ with taxes
...Or simply save my money and get a complete build from the ground up?
i7 3770 (non-K, on H77 Chipset which isn't overclockable)
8GB DDR3 1600Mhz
Samsung 840 SSD
Nvidia GTX 670 2Gb
Samsung 1080p Monitor
I have two option that I'm looking at and I need some info to choose which one would be the best for me. My budget is about 500$ Canadian but I could stretch it to 600$.
What should I do,
EVGA SuperClocked Nvidia GTX 1060 6GB (06G-P4-6163-KR) = 340$
G.Skill 16GB DDR3 1600Mhz(F3-1600C10D-16GAO) = 90$
which is 500$ with Taxes. Or,
EVGA SuperClocked Nvidia GTX 1070 8GB (08G-P4-5173-KR) = 600$ with taxes
...Or simply save my money and get a complete build from the ground up?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Yeah, reseat it and that could improve your temps. What cooler?
Stock
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
That's going to run warm but shouldn't be anywhere near that hot. Get some decent TIM to put on it. Spread isn't great in the pic you posted. Could have used either just a tiny bit more TIM or more pressure, or maybe both.
That's excessive if he's not overclocking. Which I'm assuming is the case since he's using the stock cooler. M9 would plenty good for a stock CPU if he wanted to buy a cooler.
Is it really? The H7 is meant to be smaller than some of the larger, crazier air coolers as far as I can tell. It's also like ten bucks more than the M9, and I don't think excessive cooling for a couple bucks extra is too bad of a deal. Liquid cooling would be excessive.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
For stock speeds there is barely any performance difference, so it's spending $15 extra for basically nothing.
Plus he hasn't even said he's looking for a cooler. The stock cooler is fine for being "free." Warmer and noisier, but it will get the job done at stock speeds assuming there aren't other problems (bad TIM application, bad seating, bad case airflow, etc).
Plus he hasn't even said he's looking for a cooler. The stock cooler is fine for being "free." Warmer and noisier, but it will get the job done at stock speeds assuming there aren't other problems (bad TIM application, bad seating, bad case airflow, etc).
Reseated it, seems like one of the pins wasn't entirely in all the way. CPU is back to idling at 45 instead of 90c, Games average around 80c and run much better. Thanks for the tip!
Think 80c is still too much for a game?
Next time I do a build I'll probably get a different cooler than stock. That stuff always puts me off though, always looks like the trickiest component to install.
A fair point. I've never been able to get good temps without a tower cooler, I've always immediately gotten rid of stock coolers as they were useless. Maybe it's the climate I've lived in.
It's not too bad in some modern cases since there's a cutout part in the metal backing where the CPU goes on the motherboard to make it easier to install a tower cooler.
ColdDeckEd
Member
I honestly don't update anymore, unless there's a major bug. The latest drivers messed with my stability and ended up rolling back like 4 drivers ago.
Maybe try without the io shield again?
I really don't think so. I mean, it's great for 1440p right now in most games at max but I think it'll start tanking by this time next year. Witcher 3 already makes it hit the 40 mark at times in the last few bits of the final expansion and that's with some things brought down a bit (no hairworks).I just went to a 1070 (formally on a 780ti) and have an Asus ROG 278. I'm delighted with it.
The 1070 looks to be perfect for 1440p
Personally the 1080 is the card to get if you're planning on keeping max/near max settings at 1440p for the next few years. Friend of mine who got the 1070 regretted it since he had to get another 1070 to SLI them for the coveted 60fps max settings. $850 vs $630 or so but at least he gets better performance in some games.
What model is it? Skylake? If so, 80c is a little bit high. My stock 6600K stays in the mid sixties on a Noctua L9i. Loaded, more like high seventies. It idles at 27-35C. If you want to optimize your current gear, you might try applying thermal paste in a vertical stripe:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/9483/intel-skylake-review-6700k-6600k-ddr4-ddr3-ipc-6th-generation/6
I haven't tried it yet, I just came across it preparing to overclock.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
It's probably technically okay, but really you want to try to stay under 65C in actual workloads like games (Intel spec) or at least not much over 70. Did you replace the thermal paste when you put the cooler back on? If not that would make a difference, you should never reuse it since taking the cooler off and putting it back on will create air bubbles (= hot spots).
"Spend more on graphics" is rarely good advice. You're better off compromising. $200 is a whole heck of a difference.
It is a better idea to:
1. Buy a 1070 at ~$400, ~$200 less than a 1080
2. Wait until you are dissatisfied with performance - 12-18 months depending on your standards
3. Sell the 1070 for ~200
4. Pick up the 1070 successor for ~$400
i5-4690k. I want to say the thermal paste was preapplied on the heatsink?
I didn't put any thermal paste on when I put the cooler back on. Any tips on which one to buy/how to apply?
Ryzaki009
Member
My i7 4790k usually hits about max 75c sometimes it'll go 77c (but that's usually if it's really hot) when gaming (stock cooler). I did tweak the voltages though so it's 1.089 because until I did that the temps were insane (it was spiking to nearly 80c when I wasn't doing anything).
I have an coolermaster aftermarket but it was so big and was pushing against the window of my case (that and since it was my first build my stupid self ran out of paste and ended up using the stock since it came preapplied). I'm now really don't want to have to dismantle the whole motherboard just to put the cooler on.
The general rule is 'a dot squeezed out the size of a pea' right on the center and most people buy this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007
The idea is to make sure no air pockets get left behind once you apply the cooler, that's why you don't do squares or dollop it all over. The 'pea' dot will spread out naturally with no air gaps once you place the cooler on top of it.
Well with the normal cycle (it's looking to be the case) a $400 2070/1170 = 1080. And in terms of price it's practically the same thing.
That aside, I'm mostly responding to the whole "1070 is for full, max settings 60fps 1440p" which isn't true at all. You're going to be compromising the moment you install the thing in some games and it's only going to get worse.
It would have been pre-applied, yes. As for new paste, the best thing to do is get a new cooler and use the paste that comes with it - even if you don't plan to overclock. Either a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (cliche) or Silverstone AR01 would do nicely. If you want The Best, try a Noctua U12S.
Or, of course, the Arctic Silver paste Dio recommends.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
http://overclocking.guide/thermal-p...d-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/
Basically anything in the 8-9 range on here are going to perform effectively the same. Stuff like AS5, MX-4, and NT-H1 are popular and relatively cheap.
CadetMahoney
Member
Thermal paste should be spread evenly. When I install a new CPU I clean the thermal paste off with a PCB Cleaning Solvent or similar with the help of a lint-free cloth / tv screen wipes / cotton buds.
Put some new thermal paste on and buy a nice cooler within your budget.
I suppose I really meant to second Dan27's sentiments. 1070 can handle near-max now, and lower settings down the road. I don't believe the drop from absolute maximum is a big deal. That thing has eight gigabytes of VRAM. Unless you're pushing 4K or 1440p/120, the extra money does very little.
In my case, since I only have a 1080p60 monitor right now, I don't see any point in buying anything stronger than a 1060 6gb so I picked one up for cheap.
If I end up getting one of the super 4k/HDR/144hz monitors that will most likely start coming out next year or the next, I'll pick up the appropriate GPU then.
From what I can tell, and the games I play, the only reason to get a 1070/1080 would be so I could play modern big budget titles at resolutions over 1080.
I'm not sure if this is the same issue as http://forums.evga.com/GTX-1080-FTW-Black-screen-amp-fans-spin-up-to-100-m2530081.aspx
but on my first EVGA 1080 I had the black screen with fans running at full speed issue. Got the card replaced with a newer serial numbered version of the 1080 and haven't had any issues again.
Sorry if it's off topic, but I need some quick help with this. These three programs started appearing when I Alt-tab:
They are there on startup. They don't reappear when I close them, and they don't seem to have active Windows that I can open (nothing happens when I click on them). They are not on the list of startup programs in the task manager.
I have the suspicion that they started appearing after I installed the Gigabyte App Center CD that came with my motherboard, but I am not 100% sure. However, when I terminate the app center they don't disappear either.
Any ideas what it is, and how to go about finding about it? Anyone else with the Gigabyte App Center that has noticed them?
They are there on startup. They don't reappear when I close them, and they don't seem to have active Windows that I can open (nothing happens when I click on them). They are not on the list of startup programs in the task manager.
I have the suspicion that they started appearing after I installed the Gigabyte App Center CD that came with my motherboard, but I am not 100% sure. However, when I terminate the app center they don't disappear either.
Any ideas what it is, and how to go about finding about it? Anyone else with the Gigabyte App Center that has noticed them?
3.8ghz stock is incorrect.
The board is applying a core enhancement. You should be able to turn that off in the OC section - the setting is usually near the CPU multiplier. Once turned off you can observe the real stock behaviour.
Having to reset cmos due to insufficient vcore is somewhat normal, most boards will fail to POST a few times and reset themselves to stock. You may want to check if any bios updates addressed fhis.
Why you would install anything from the CD is beyond me. Most of that stuff is buggy bloatware, just remove it all. It probably installs services too.
The only thing that you may want is the single app that controls fan speeds - this can be done in the bios anyway though.
I needed to do it for BIOS updates, and I actually think some of that stuff is kind of useful. The rest is bloatware though I agree.
You can update the bios from within the BIOS too.
paperspace
Member
I'm so disappointed with my 6700K. I can't overclock it past stock speeds no matter what I do. I need to increase vcore dramatically which makes it really hot and not worth it.
What overclocking results are you guys getting?
What overclocking results are you guys getting?
Long time no see. My father rang me to say his PC has shit itself so I'm having to sort out a replacement whilst salvaging the bits that work from the old one. HDDs, the SSD and the GPU (AMD 7770) will carry over so I need to replace the rest.
Pretty much set on the i3 6100, 8GB DDR4 and the motherboard in the OP for the basic build. It's the case and the PSU I cannot decide on. I've been toying with these cases and PSUs
XFX TS Series 430W PSU 80+ Bronze - £33.60 - Seems to be a Seasonic inside like all bar one of their PSUs. Not modular but should be reliable.
EVGA 500B - £53
Seasonic 430ST 430W - £45 - Possibly the same unit as the XFX with the original branding on it.
Antec VPF550 550W - £52
Be quiet! 400w Pure Power 9 80+ Silver - £47
and lastly one I wouldn't usually consider, a Corsair CX-M. Seems to be a brand new unit compared to the old ones. Fan is thermally controlled and the warranty is now 5 years on it, which makes me think the quality is a lot better than the old one. It's £50 but I can't find out too much online about it. Bonus of being modular too. TR featured it in their October build guide as well.
As for cases, I'm torn between going mid-tower and a Micro ATX. Looking at these at the minute
Corsair 100R - £40
SilverStone SST-PS08B - £35
Fractal Design Core 1300 - £37
Corsair 88R - £44
Fractal Design Core 2300 - £45
Cooler Master Silencio 352 - £51
BitFenix Shinobi - £50
Fairly exhaustive list but they seem to be the best options for cases for in and around the £50 mark. At the minute I'm leaning to either the XFX PSU or the Corsair CX-M, and case wise either the 100R or Silencio 352.
Pretty much set on the i3 6100, 8GB DDR4 and the motherboard in the OP for the basic build. It's the case and the PSU I cannot decide on. I've been toying with these cases and PSUs
XFX TS Series 430W PSU 80+ Bronze - £33.60 - Seems to be a Seasonic inside like all bar one of their PSUs. Not modular but should be reliable.
EVGA 500B - £53
Seasonic 430ST 430W - £45 - Possibly the same unit as the XFX with the original branding on it.
Antec VPF550 550W - £52
Be quiet! 400w Pure Power 9 80+ Silver - £47
and lastly one I wouldn't usually consider, a Corsair CX-M. Seems to be a brand new unit compared to the old ones. Fan is thermally controlled and the warranty is now 5 years on it, which makes me think the quality is a lot better than the old one. It's £50 but I can't find out too much online about it. Bonus of being modular too. TR featured it in their October build guide as well.
As for cases, I'm torn between going mid-tower and a Micro ATX. Looking at these at the minute
Corsair 100R - £40
SilverStone SST-PS08B - £35
Fractal Design Core 1300 - £37
Corsair 88R - £44
Fractal Design Core 2300 - £45
Cooler Master Silencio 352 - £51
BitFenix Shinobi - £50
Fairly exhaustive list but they seem to be the best options for cases for in and around the £50 mark. At the minute I'm leaning to either the XFX PSU or the Corsair CX-M, and case wise either the 100R or Silencio 352.
RIP my 2009 WD Velociraptor
Please could somebody recommend an SSD that will work with my ageing motherboard? I'd like to get one that will still be relevant for a new build PC in a year or two's time but I'm not sure about the different non-SATA standards. Seems like M.2 might not be an option.
Biostar TZ77B Z77 Socket 1155
Thanks
Please could somebody recommend an SSD that will work with my ageing motherboard? I'd like to get one that will still be relevant for a new build PC in a year or two's time but I'm not sure about the different non-SATA standards. Seems like M.2 might not be an option.
Biostar TZ77B Z77 Socket 1155
Thanks
Jezbollah
Member
Well, I said sweet spot as in for most games at max settings, like you said. But there is always high intensity games like The Witcher that you raised where of course the 1080 is going to do better - but given that the 1080ti is due out in the first few months of next year, I think getting a 1080 now rather than when the TI comes out (and 1080 prices will fall) means you're paying a short lived premium for a performance boost for a few weeks. For me, I'm staying at 1440p res, I have no intent to use VR and am happy to switch down a bit of detail for hungry games with the money I've spent.
Personally, if I was your friend, I wouldn't be getting another 1070 to SLI it. Sell it, and get that 1080 he wants. Or keep with it, and sell + buy the 1080 in a few months for cheaper (or get the TI).
So I looked up your motherboard. You only have two SATA3 connectors (which I think are indicated by the white sata ports). Pretty much any SSD will work, but just ensure you plug it into one of those ports to ensure you get the full transfer speed out of it. Do you have a budget and target capacity of the SSD device you would like to replace it with?
So I looked up your motherboard. You only have two SATA3 connectors (which I think are indicated by the white sata ports). Pretty much any SSD will work, but just ensure you plug it into one of those ports to ensure you get the full transfer speed out of it. Do you have a budget and target capacity of the SSD device you would like to replace it with?
Thanks. 500GB for under £125 would be great.
I wrote in another thread because of 2 things it's time to make a new pc. Here's what I currently have:
I'll try to sell my cpu, mobo (doesn't have pciex16 slot anymore), graphics card (first I'll take it to service to see if it can be fixed because that will certainly influence my price, the fans don't work below 85%) and ram. Think I'll keep the rest, maybe new mouse since this one's mid click is pretty much dead and maybe new HDD since ones I have are from 2008 and there are no signs of death but I'm always afraid. I'll do that if I get money left over.
While at it I think it's good time to format the ssd and install win10, although the idea of setting it all up again is daunting.
As for new config I took the ideas from OP and I think this is best you can do in my case.
CPU - i5 6600k not much use of i7 in games for me afaik
graphics - nvidia 1070, kinda wanna take a break from AMD, last 2 cards died or became faulty. I play at 2k resolution and no 144hz monitor any time soon so think this will do fine.
MOBO - Gigabyte z170 XP or A, maybe Asus z170a whatever I find for best price here.
DDR4 16 gb (32 overkill?)
I think this will all roughly cost me bit over 1000 euros, and maybe I can sell my parts for 200, if graphics card gets fixed bit more.
Am I good to go?
Code:
CPU Motherboard Graphics RAM
i5-3570K, 3.40GHz Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H-WB WIFI MSI 7970 2x4GB 1600MHz Corsair XMS CL9, CMX8GX3M2B1600C9
Hard Drive Hard Drive Hard Drive Cooling
128GB Samsung 840 Pro Western Digital Caviar Blue WD6400AAKS 640GB Western Digital Caviar Blue WD6400AAKS 640GB Xigmatek Gaia SD1283
OS Monitor Keyboard Power
Windows 7 BenQ G2400WD Logitech G15 800W COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold
Case Mouse Mouse Pad Audio
COOLER MASTER COSMOS 1000 Razer Deathadder Razer Mantis Xonar DGI'll try to sell my cpu, mobo (doesn't have pciex16 slot anymore), graphics card (first I'll take it to service to see if it can be fixed because that will certainly influence my price, the fans don't work below 85%) and ram. Think I'll keep the rest, maybe new mouse since this one's mid click is pretty much dead and maybe new HDD since ones I have are from 2008 and there are no signs of death but I'm always afraid. I'll do that if I get money left over.
While at it I think it's good time to format the ssd and install win10, although the idea of setting it all up again is daunting.
As for new config I took the ideas from OP and I think this is best you can do in my case.
CPU - i5 6600k not much use of i7 in games for me afaik
graphics - nvidia 1070, kinda wanna take a break from AMD, last 2 cards died or became faulty. I play at 2k resolution and no 144hz monitor any time soon so think this will do fine.
MOBO - Gigabyte z170 XP or A, maybe Asus z170a whatever I find for best price here.
DDR4 16 gb (32 overkill?)
I think this will all roughly cost me bit over 1000 euros, and maybe I can sell my parts for 200, if graphics card gets fixed bit more.
Am I good to go?
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