Jezbollah
Member
No worries! Scan.co.uk are doing a Samsung 750 EVO series 500gb drive for £121 at the moment.
It's worth looking around for other possible options, but I think this would be a good starting point!
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No worries! Scan.co.uk are doing a Samsung 750 EVO series 500gb drive for £121 at the moment.
It's worth looking around for other possible options, but I think this would be a good starting point!
Amazon have it a little cheaper, and free delivery if you already have prime https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G844L88/
Zombegoast
Member
IT'S WORKING! i had to remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard. Now my only issue is getting my USB as a bootable device to install windows 10.
JonnyDBrit
Member
...The what?
*Googles*
Huh. So it was a power issue... specifically a motherboard's power issue.
Infinite Justice
Member
Man haven't heard someone using this solution in a long time lol.
There are programs available that will quickly make your usb drive into a bootable one eg Rufus
If its not detecting the usb for some reason you can go in the bios and change the boot order of your system.
demented waffle
Member
Loving my Nitro upgrade from my Gigabyte 290x. Performance isn't that much better in most situations, but man, the noise level is a million times better. I can actually unlock from 60 and not have a jet engine sitting right next to me.
Custom fan profile has it running at a very silent 50% while at pretty cool 60ish temp.
I actually don't hear my damn card while gaming. So QOL is much improved. This card is a steal at 289 USD.
Custom fan profile has it running at a very silent 50% while at pretty cool 60ish temp.
I actually don't hear my damn card while gaming. So QOL is much improved. This card is a steal at 289 USD.
He went with the SLI 1070s already. He thought it would be a hassle to sell the 1070 and go for the 1080. Not to mention that the 1070s will deliver better performance than a 1080 in most games that matter. 1080ti wasn't really an option because it's both unreleased and likely going to be like $850+ based on how this gen's pricing has turned out. Thanks, AMD.
In the end, I felt all kinds of bad because I followed all the reviews that said the 1070 was for 1440p Max at 60FPS and recommended the thing.
Broadbandito
Member
So I'm pretty sure I (accidentally) messed up my CPU when I was removing the thermal and redoing it. Build doesn't start anymore.
Anyone in this threa have a LGA1155 CPU they are trying to unload? Please message me if you do.
Anyone in this threa have a LGA1155 CPU they are trying to unload? Please message me if you do.
Running into a problem here that I can't identify. I was browsing around normally, when all of a sudden the CPU fan shot up to 100% speed (from what I can hear) and the CPU temp was 90° (I'm not OCing). I opened the ASUS AI Suite app to check what speed the fan was at, and it showed N/A.
I restarted the PC and now I'm getting this:
I haven't changed anything for a few weeks. But I opened the case again and re-plugged the CPU fan cable and the USB 2.0 cable, still nothing.
Any tips? I'm in the midst of crucial work now. :/
I restarted the PC and now I'm getting this:
I haven't changed anything for a few weeks. But I opened the case again and re-plugged the CPU fan cable and the USB 2.0 cable, still nothing.
Any tips? I'm in the midst of crucial work now. :/
Terbinator
Member
Unless there's an obvious CPU issue then it's likely you've damaged the pins in the socket, instead.
Are you sure you've plugged everything in - CPU 4+4 12v cable etc.
Broadbandito
Member
Well I just switched out all my parts into a new case, PC turns on and off and repeats. Removed everything except ram, psu, CPU/heat sink.
The CPU looks like there is a small piece sticking out on the bottom. I'll take pictures. When I get home I'll try to show in a picture.
And yes I made sure all power cables were connected properly
JohnnyFootball
GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
So is there ANY clue as to what sort of improvements we can expect on Kaby Lake motherboards/CPUs?
Intel seems to have gone totally mum
Intel seems to have gone totally mum
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Very, very little beyond 3D Xpoint. It's pretty much a refresh of Skylake, similar to Devil's Canyon vs original Haswell.
Jezbollah
Member
Yep, the problem with following the reviews is they caveat the benchmarks/performance quite hard - in most games the 1070 is adequate for the kind of experience you advocated - so I wouldn't feel bad if I was you. It's still a very solid card.
Good spot!
JohnnyFootball
GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I am wondering if it will drop the price of Skylake mobos and CPUs...
I seem to recall that USB3.1 will be natively supported on Kaby Lake.
That seems like a big deal.
I've seen this happen and have no idea what causes it. Doesn't seem to be for any particular motherboard/processor either.
It's just the BIOS reporting it wrong, so if you go into your BIOS and turn off the fan error warning you can use your system fine again. You just won't be able to monitor fan speed.
Broadbandito
Member
https://imgur.com/a/DoRgs
Here are a bunch of photos of the socket and the CPU. Notice the little blemish on the CPU and this is what has me thinking it's the CPU. What does everyone think? Bad mobo or bad CPU? I need to get my PC in working order ASAP.
Terbinator
Member
Yeah I can see the blemish on the CPU but if you look on the socket picks, it seems there is a number of bent pins also.
itdeadjim, could be both CPU and Mobo.
Thanks for the reply. I don't mind not getting the fan speed, but the CPU temperature is off the roof (gets as high as 93). Is that also an error?
The blemish on the CPU looks like it's a pin that came out of the socket and is stuck to it. But that socket is knackered, so you'll definitely need to replace the board. The CPU might be okay if you can get rid of that blemish with a soft cloth.
If the fan is still spinning fine whilst your system is on then the board is probably misreading the temperature (as it assumes the fan isn't moving either). So long as the cooler is correctly mounted and the fan is spinning it should be just fine.
A friend gave me a better idea maybe, I could buy new z77 if I find it for cheap, switch ram for faster one and more of it, add nvidia 1060 and that will hold me until next gen comes and when I sell things I won't use anymore the upgrade will be far far below what I'd spend on upgrades I listed. What do you guys think? Or maybe I should go with 1070, I want something that will keep running games GOOD until like 2020 or when ddr5 comes and other good stuff?
One curious thing is that the fan doesn't show on the BIOS (CPU Fan reads as N/A). So in this case I either have to change the fan or live with it running at 100% speed, right? (It was mostly at 40% before. I miss the silence.
)Sectorseven
Member
What's the best powerline network adapter, or at least the best value?
Broadbandito
Member
Any chance y'all could recommend a board that won't break the bank? I need 4 ram slots. Hard to look for this stuff on my phone and keep striking out on places I have looked.
You'll be looking for used. Socket 1155 is 5 years and three generations behind.
Broadbandito
Member
I did find this Intel Desktop Board Media Series LGA 1155 DDR 1333 Micro-ATX Form Factor brand new on amazon
still looking around for used aswel l but almost leaning towards this board. I know I'd have to take off my overclock settings.
Broadbandito
Member
I was able to remove the piece that was above the chip itself. I still can't get rid of the small blemish that remains.
I think I am going to order this intel BOXDQ67SWB3 and take my chances that it was just the mobo and that the cpu will still work even with the blemish. If it doesn't work then I know that I have to replace mobo/cpu/ram and have a much more expensive venture to go through.
edit: found the same board on ebay for $28 used. Gonna keep looking through used options now since it's much cheaper haha.
edit: Sorry for the double post, didn't even realize it :/
SirMossyBloke
Member
Hey guys.
So I posted in here not long ago about an AMD 9590 chipset that kept crashing windows and was told it was due to lack of liquid cooling. That was 100% correct so instead of buying a liquid cooler my friend decided to get a new motherboard and an i5 6600k instead. He didn't want to spend more money on the cooler and got a trade in.
Anyway, we got the place to install everything and we would install a fresh copy of Windows. I used the media create tool to do so and so far we've had the worst luck ever. It would crash all the time, and every time it would give us a different error, and from googling it seems it's all driver related, but we couldn't install new drivers due to it crashing.
Well now we decided to update the bios first with the new drivers as the latest one was to support new CPUs. We used the EZ flash update 3 to automatically down load the driver and install. It downloaded no problem and then promptly froze during the update. We left it for an hour. We had no choice but to reboot knowing what would happen and now it boots up for 5 seconds then shuts down. We even removed the CMOS battery twice.
The motherboard, a Z170-k has a bios recovery system built in according to the manual. All we needed was the original disc is came with or a USB drive and it said it would read it and recover it. However all it does is the same boot up and then shut down on a boot loop.
He's having the worst luck and is ready to throw this thing. Can anyone offer any suggestions?
So I posted in here not long ago about an AMD 9590 chipset that kept crashing windows and was told it was due to lack of liquid cooling. That was 100% correct so instead of buying a liquid cooler my friend decided to get a new motherboard and an i5 6600k instead. He didn't want to spend more money on the cooler and got a trade in.
Anyway, we got the place to install everything and we would install a fresh copy of Windows. I used the media create tool to do so and so far we've had the worst luck ever. It would crash all the time, and every time it would give us a different error, and from googling it seems it's all driver related, but we couldn't install new drivers due to it crashing.
Well now we decided to update the bios first with the new drivers as the latest one was to support new CPUs. We used the EZ flash update 3 to automatically down load the driver and install. It downloaded no problem and then promptly froze during the update. We left it for an hour. We had no choice but to reboot knowing what would happen and now it boots up for 5 seconds then shuts down. We even removed the CMOS battery twice.
The motherboard, a Z170-k has a bios recovery system built in according to the manual. All we needed was the original disc is came with or a USB drive and it said it would read it and recover it. However all it does is the same boot up and then shut down on a boot loop.
He's having the worst luck and is ready to throw this thing. Can anyone offer any suggestions?
Sounds like a hardware issue.
I don't want to say "told you so", but for the future: Never update the bios via Windows. And never update the bios if we cannot get the system to stay up with a decent certainty.
I think to do bios flashback you'll need the bios file extracted (if it downloaded as zip) to the root of the USB. Plug the USB into the flashback USB slot.
Initiate the flashback mode as the mobo manual states.
It sounds like a RAM issue - try using a known good set of RAM Modules before trying the flashback.
Do we have details on the exact errors we were getting in Windows? Were these BSODs?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Sounds like bad memory to me. Have you run memtest?
And yeah, trying to update Windows or the bios or something while the system isn't stable is just asking for problems.
SirMossyBloke
Member
I didn't actually update the bios via Windows. I did it via the bios itself. It supports bios updates via the internet through bios.
As far as the flashback settings, the manual doesn't mention a specific USB port although I have tried all of them, and it doesn't even work with the disc. There's also nothing to press on the motherboard to initiate it.
All the errors we got on Windows were BSOD but there were so many different ones I can't remember. Funnily enough we eventually got windows to be stable by installing the motherboard disc and updating windows drivers but had to reinstall because we selected the pro edition and his key was for the home edition :/
Edit: took out the ram and now it powers up properly but nothing on the screen. Seems like it is bad ram, so we're taking the whole thing back tomorrow.
You will need atleast 1 ram module for a successful POST.
Windows drivers got nothing to do with it, just a coincidence.
demosthenes
Member
My predator is hooked up, and it's glorious.
Thanks, I actually never realized that turboing all cores to 3.8GHz isn't factory default. Although it doesn't really matter since I'm trying to OC anyway.
So I've been playing around with different clocks and vcores all day and ended up with 4.4GHz at 1.28V. I put llc on turbo which I suppose is one of the higher settings. I only tested it with a short prime run but it seems stable. I did however get some crashes in Battlefield 1 but I'm not sure if they are related to the OC since they say something about the nVidia drivers which I updated today. I'm gonna run prime overnight to test for stability.
Are the OC values fine? I read that high llc values degrade the CPU over time. I also need to switch to an offset vcore so it doesn't run on the higher one all the time.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Nice, which one did you get?
Nice. Got any pics?
For the first time in my computing career, I have a 1080p Monitor (which I got used for $20). Plugged it in and wondering why it all looks so fuzzy, then I realized it only looks that way because it's next to my Retina MacBook. But, still nice to have a bigger screen! Excited to play some games on it on my desktop later.
demosthenes
Member
Beautiful monitor, if I had the cash I'd pick one up. Had an XB270HU for a few days, but needed something with an HDMI input, so I'd returned it.
Well it's about time for me to build my first PC, so
Your Current Specs:None
Budget: Targeting $1500, but willing to splurge up to $2000. Located in the US
Main Use:Gaming with with just the bog-standard non-gaming applications.
Monitor Resolution: I don't see myself really trying for 4K very often, mostly 1080 the vast majority of the time. However, I do hope to play my consoles on the monitor as well.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Well what I really want to do is shove about 500 mods up Skyrim's ass but that probably doesn't require any specific parts. Generally I would hope for 60 FPS solid.
Looking to reuse any parts?: N/A since first PC, but I suppose I'm hoping to make the 1080 the centerpiece
When will you build?: Before the end of the year, preferably as soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Nope
Your Current Specs:None
Budget: Targeting $1500, but willing to splurge up to $2000. Located in the US
Main Use:Gaming with with just the bog-standard non-gaming applications.
Monitor Resolution: I don't see myself really trying for 4K very often, mostly 1080 the vast majority of the time. However, I do hope to play my consoles on the monitor as well.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Well what I really want to do is shove about 500 mods up Skyrim's ass but that probably doesn't require any specific parts.
Generally I would hope for 60 FPS solid.Looking to reuse any parts?: N/A since first PC, but I suppose I'm hoping to make the 1080 the centerpiece
When will you build?: Before the end of the year, preferably as soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Nope
QuantumSquid
Member
Well it's about time for me to build my first PC, so
Your Current Specs:None
Budget: Targeting $1500, but willing to splurge up to $2000. Located in the US
Main Use:Gaming with with just the bog-standard non-gaming applications.
Monitor Resolution: I don't see myself really trying for 4K very often, mostly 1080 the vast majority of the time. However, I do hope to play my consoles on the monitor as well.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Well what I really want to do is shove about 500 mods up Skyrim's ass but that probably doesn't require any specific parts.
Looking to reuse any parts?: N/A since first PC, but I suppose I'm hoping to make the 1080 the centerpiece
When will you build?: Before the end of the year, preferably as soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Nope
Here's a kickass build that's in your budget. 1440p IPS monitor, i5-6600K, GTX 1070, 16GB RAM, 500GB SSD, 2TB HDD, RGB-lit mechanical keyboard and gaming mouse.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($237.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.43 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($86.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.10 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING Video Card ($394.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.98 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB 32/64-bit ($119.00 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Acer G257HU smidpx 25.0" 60Hz Monitor ($269.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($137.40 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Corsair Sabre RGB Wired Optical Mouse ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1934.31
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-23 23:41 EDT-0400
I included overclockable parts in your build because with a budget like that, it would be a waste not to. Your performance will be amazing right out of the box, but a few years down the line, if you find yourself wanting a little bit more out of your PC, you can look up how to overclock an i5-6600K and squeeze some more performance out of it.
I went for the 1070 because the 1080 was really limiting my ability to include a top-tier keyboard and mouse, and because the GTX 1080 is sickeningly overkill for gaming at 1920x1080. Hell, the 1070 is too - which is why this build includes a 25-inch IPS 1440p monitor.
Let me know what you think!
camequipped
Member
Solid choice, using one myself and compared to the 1080 this is a bigger upgrade imo.
I'm in the same boat. If you preordered the 960 just now, though, the 6-8 week wait might not be worth it, maybe? I'm fine with mine because I preordered it when the wait was 2-4 for shipping.
I'm just thinking that Amazon and Newegg and stuff would have certain amounts of stock.
What A Time To Be Alive
Member
Hey so I threw this build together for my friend, gonna help him build his first computer and he had a budget of about $600
Just wanted to run it through the experts here to see if this is a pretty good build for $600 or nah
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($53.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($41.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($44.39 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital RE3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($41.95 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Other: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050Ti ($140.00)
Total: $601.18
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-24 01:40 EDT-0400
Just wanted to run it through the experts here to see if this is a pretty good build for $600 or nah
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($53.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($41.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($44.39 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital RE3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($41.95 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Other: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050Ti ($140.00)
Total: $601.18
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-24 01:40 EDT-0400
So, I was searching for new motherboards I could use for an i5 6400 that I have laying around, and I found a H110M that uses DDR3 ram.
A few months back I had brought 16gb of ram of frequency 1333mhz since that's what's compatible with the motherboard currently on my machine.
I heard frequency isn't so much relevant for frame rates, but I just want to make sure; is it really not much of a deal for gaming PC's? I'd rather not have to buy new ram sticks, if possible
A few months back I had brought 16gb of ram of frequency 1333mhz since that's what's compatible with the motherboard currently on my machine.
I heard frequency isn't so much relevant for frame rates, but I just want to make sure; is it really not much of a deal for gaming PC's? I'd rather not have to buy new ram sticks, if possible
Most of these skylake ddr3 boards need low voltage ddr3, 1.35v. Most ddr3 was 1.5v so be careful. Memory speed makes some difference, for ddr3 1866 cl10 or ddr4 2666 cl14 are the areas you want.
LLC is mysterious, it needs a digital oscilloscope to determine its real effect. In the old days of 1st gen core, it was deemed as problematic due to excessive overshoot. But new boards should not have a problem.
I would use the one from highest setting for LLC, or atleast read up on your board series to see what others determined for the level of LLC needed.
Yes you should get it stable on manual then switch to offset, beware that usually offset will need another small vcore bump in general.
When switching to offset, a higher LLC has much greater chances for instability at lower speeds.
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