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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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LilJoka

Member
Jay-sus tap-dancing Christ I didn't realise the 1070 was so expensive, even relative to the 1060 6GB. Although a quick glance at benches shows how beneficial the extra grunt it is at resolutions above 1080p.

Given that I intend to stream/video edit quite a bit though would my intentions to go for a 6700k for the HT tech, and skimp on the GPU for the time being be the right call if I'm willing to sit at 1080p for now? My thinking is that the GPU can always be switched out, wheras the CPU sockets will change soon enough, making it a pain in the arse to sort if I need the extra processing power down the line?

Also, what on earth are display ports on GPUs? Why the move from just using HDMI on the back of GPUs?

Yeah the 1070 is very expensive.
My only problem with the 1060 is that it's slower than a 970 and my ridiculously overclocked 970 (basically a 980) is just cutting it for 1080p60 ultra/high. I tend to rarely use AA since my TV is only 720p so don't need it. I'll use FXAA or 2x MSAA at most.

If the 6700k is needed, the 1060 is the only option I guess. It should run most games 1080p60, and maybe turn a few things down to get that for all games. 2K would be more difficult and probably medium/high mixed at 30-40fps.

question about P95. In some of the overclock videos I've seen they recommended not to use P95 because it puts too much stress on the CPU. As you already mentioned Aida64 isnt that hard to pass and I already use Realbench too for tests. Is P95 necessary for a proper stress test and is it safe to use for extended period of time?

Realbench is also easy to pass. I had numerous issues with realbench stable OCs. If you don't have issues then nothing to worry about. If you get random issues then it's time to up the ante.

P95 was a problem on Haswell due to AVX2 tests causing Vcore to spike. It's not a problem for all other Gens as long as you can keep temps in check (below 80c).
P95 v27.9 doesn't use AVX2, newer versions do, hence 28.7 being a harder test to pass.
A proper stress test would be Linpack 24/7 365days a year, it's up to you to draw the line ;)
 
Jay-sus tap-dancing Christ I didn't realise the 1070 was so expensive, even relative to the 1060 6GB.

Yeah the 1070 is very expensive.

It's more expensive than the US counterpart price, but that's normal even before brexit. It was even more expensive at launch on amazon, £420.

Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB went up from £130 to £150 on amazon recently because of the further pound drop. I feel sorry for new buyers.
 

DJ88

Member
I never got around to posting pics of my completed build in the summer. I went for a black and white aesthetic. It took a while till I could find the graphics card and get the custom parts, but it was worth it!

You can see a full part list here:
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/pMPscf

182414.8ddaef0f9a820fz6up0.jpg
 

kennah

Member
Water cooling.

So. Some debris blocked my CPU block. Which caused my pump to overload and die.

Waiting for a pump. I tried to clean everything. But I didn't rinse off the vinegar and caused a bunch of corrosion on all my blocks.

CLR bath and a vigorous tooth brushing later it is all clean and hopefully good to go for another year when I install the new pump.

Used the strip down as an opportunity to install a backplate on my gpu and some led lighting in the case.
 

LilJoka

Member
It's more expensive than the US counterpart price, but that's normal even before brexit. It was even more expensive at launch on amazon, £420.

Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB went up from £130 to £150 on amazon recently because of the further pound drop. I feel sorry for new buyers.

I compare it the the 970 which was £280 at release =/
Now the 1060 which is worse/similar to a 970 sits around that price.
 

Anustart

Member
Anyone doing any upgrading and needing to offload parts? Wanting to build a budget PC for my stepson. Have a GPU already but nothing else.
 

Xisiqomelir

Member
Migrated most of my Linux partitions to FreeBSD, I just like the OS design and roadmap much better, and all the software I use has been cross-ported both ways for years.

Good install guide I used:
https://cooltrainer.org/a-freebsd-desktop-howto/

Any new players in the full-sized case market? I know about Case Labs and Nanoxia, but there isn't a design I've seen yet that screams "Buy Me" like I had with my S71.
 
So I have another question. Once again, setup:

Intel i7-6700K @ 4.6GHz @ Manual 1.325V
Noctua NH-D15
Asus Z170I Gaming
16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 w/ XMP Enabled @ 3000Mhz / 15-17-17-35
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
Silverstone PS-ST75F-GS
250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD (BOOT)
1TB WD Blue HDD (GAMES)
3TB (MEDIA)


Last night my PC had been working when I did a stress temperature test using AIDA64. The temps were peaking in the mid 70's on a Noctua NH-D15 after about half an hour. I didn't want to leave the stress test running over night so I made sure it was disabled. I wasn't testing for stability as much as I was testing for temperatures (planned on doing long tests tonight).

Anyways, it's on all night just idling (idle temps between 25C and 35C). I don't notice if it's on or not when I left for work.

When I get back home the PC is turned off. I go to push the power button and it's dead. No sign of life except two LEDs on the motherboard. Neither of which are diagnostic lights, one is for the onboard audio and the other is I guess there to indicate the PC is asleep (which it wasn't.) I press down on the power button for several seconds, unplug and plug it back in. Remove the and rearrange the ram (try one stick, try the other, try one slot, try the other). Remove my GPU.

I then go grab a different PSU but the same thing continues to happen. Won't power on - no fans, no nothing.

Then I bridged the CMOS terminals to reset CMOS and the computer sprung to life. I retraced my steps every time. Powered off, reinstalled GPU, powered on. Powered off, reinstalled both RAM sticks, powered on. Used test PSU - powered on fine. Used normal PSU - powered on fine.

So resetting CMOS resolved the issue. So my question is, what the fuck and why?

I didn't mess with anything besides very rudimentary OC stuff and it was not being stressed. I noticed the cable connecting the front panel audio had come undone. I'm not how that happened - if the front panel audio became shaken or jarred loose could that case the problem I described? Should I worry about my CPU/MOBO/RAM? I bought them three days ago and still have a window to take them back.

Any ideas? Why would my PC play dead until a CMOS reset takes place?

I just also just noticed this in HWmonitor.

PCf1bJJ.jpg


It pretty much just stays there within a degree or two margin. If I'm in the UEFI it does not read out anywhere close to that temp. I don't know how this would even be possible. My airflow inside the case is about as good as I'm going to be able to get it.
 

knitoe

Member
I just also just noticed this in HWmonitor.

PCf1bJJ.jpg


It pretty much just stays there within a degree or two margin. If I'm in the UEFI it does not read out anywhere close to that temp. I don't know how this would even be possible. My airflow inside the case is about as good as I'm going to be able to get it.

What does it show with HWinfo? If same, probably, a bad temp sensor.

Clearing the CMOS will reset your bios settings to default. Probably, your OC settings were not stable. Are you OC the memory and/or CPU?
 
I just also just noticed this in HWmonitor.

PCf1bJJ.jpg


It pretty much just stays there within a degree or two margin. If I'm in the UEFI it does not read out anywhere close to that temp. I don't know how this would even be possible. My airflow inside the case is about as good as I'm going to be able to get it.

I really doubt that's the real temp, could be hwmonitor doesn't know how to read that motherboard's temp sensor correctly. Check it out in ai suite and in bios.
 
I am having this strange issue where Windows 10 takes forever to restart. If I turn it off fully and then turn it on, it is very fast but restarting takes at least a minute or two.

I think the issue is to do with switching motherboard, I tried to fix the filesystem etc. but it didn't find any issues. Would this only be fixed by a fresh install?

Also even before I changed motherboards and CPU my desktop doesn't save SOME of my icons locations. It's really strange.
 

LilJoka

Member
I am having this strange issue where Windows 10 takes forever to restart. If I turn it off fully and then turn it on, it is very fast but restarting takes at least a minute or two.

I think the issue is to do with switching motherboard, I tried to fix the filesystem etc. but it didn't find any issues. Would this only be fixed by a fresh install?

Also even before I changed motherboards and CPU my desktop doesn't save SOME of my icons locations. It's really strange.

If restart and shutdown are hanging, there maybe a process its trying to kill with little success.
Try killing any process that relates to something you installed before rebooting.

But functionally they're the same?

Something like this?

Same thing as full size but will run hotter and louder and likely won't see as high boost speeds in game.
Always buy a full size card unless it simply cannot be fit. I have a MSI GAMING 970 in my Node 304 ITX case.
 
If restart and shutdown are hanging, there maybe a process its trying to kill with little success.
Try killing any process that relates to something you installed before rebooting.

Strangely it's just reboot, shutdown is very quick, I haven't looked majorly into it yet. I don't think it's a process as I haven't installed anything new since this issue started happening.
 

Martian

Member
Question: is there much difference to consider when buying a monitor? For instance: would it matter much if I chose the 100 euro one over the 150 euro one, when both are pretty similar in specifications.

and some noob questions:
- What does ms mean when it comes to monitors?
- And the same question for Hz?
- Do I need to pick a specific number for those, as I am planning to get a 1070 (heard it had to do something with FPS, I have no clue though)
 

enewtabie

Member
Question: is there much difference to consider when buying a monitor? For instance: would it matter much if I chose the 100 euro one over the 150 euro one, when both are pretty similar in specifications.

and some noob questions:
- What does ms mean when it comes to monitors?
- And the same question for Hz?
- Do I need to pick a specific number for those, as I am planning to get a 1070 (heard it had to do something with FPS, I have no clue though)


MS is milliseconds in response time. The lower the better
HZ is the refresh rate. Most monitors are 60hz as std, 144,165,185 200 are the higher end. I went with 144hz and yes you can tell a difference. I have a 1070 EVGA card.
Whats your budget on a monitor?
 

Martian

Member
MS is milliseconds in response time. The lower the better
HZ is the refresh rate. Most monitors are 60hz as std, 144,165,185 200 are the higher end. I went with 144hz and yes you can tell a difference. I have a 1070 EVGA card.
Whats your budget on a monitor?

Hopefully around 100-150 euros, as I am not really looking for something high-end right now. 1080p is fine for me, as I just wanted a 1070 for (somewhat) futureproofing my PC.

I was thinking about the Samsung S24E650PL or the BenQ RL2455HM, but I'm not really sure
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Well, with the rMBP announcement being quite a disappointment, I think I might actually go for the Razer Blade Pro. Call me crazy, but it almost feels so ahead of the game that it reminds me of Apple's older stuff.

Anyway, I only have just one question that might make or break the plan for me:

The RBP has a G-Sync 4K display running off its internal 1080 GPU. Fantastic. That said, if I hook the laptop up to my 27" 1440p G-Sync display, will g-sync on my external monitor be enabled?
 
Hello guys, I've got a question and I'd appreciate it if someone could answer it for me.

My current PC build which I bought several years ago has these specs:

CPU: QuadCore Intel Core i5-2500K, 3400 MHz

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H67M-D2

PSU: Corsair TX750W power Supply

RAM: 8GB DDR3

My PC has served me well for many years an I'm still able to play new-ish games at 1080p making some compromises (30FPS lock, no-aa, medium-high settings).

I'm pretty low on budget but I was thinking that getting a Geforce GTX 1050 ti would be pretty affordable and surely a very significant boost in gaming performance. My question is, do any of you guys know if I can use a 1050 ti with my current motherboard and PSU? I honestly don't know how to tell and I'd rather ask than buy it to realize I can't use it without another component I can't afford right now. Thanks.
 

Bloodember

Member
Well, with the rMBP announcement being quite a disappointment, I think I might actually go for the Razer Blade Pro. Call me crazy, but it almost feels so ahead of the game that it reminds me of Apple's older stuff.

Anyway, I only have just one question that might make or break the plan for me:

The RBP has a G-Sync 4K display running off its internal 1080 GPU. Fantastic. That said, if I hook the laptop up to my 27" 1440p G-Sync display, will g-sync on my external monitor be enabled?

I can't see why it wouldn't. I'd check with Razer though, they would have the answer.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
I can't see why it wouldn't. I'd check with Razer though, they would have the answer.

Unfortunately, I've messaged on FB and on Twitter, to both the brand and the CEO, and haven't heard anything back; and I can't get any confirmation on their site or some light Googling.

The problem is the Blade Pro doesn't have Displayport out - so I'd need to confirm it can do it on the Thunderbolt out/port.
 

Bloodember

Member
Unfortunately, I've messaged on FB and on Twitter, to both the brand and the CEO, and haven't heard anything back; and I can't get any confirmation on their site or some light Googling.

The problem is the Blade Pro doesn't have Displayport out - so I'd need to confirm it can do it on the Thunderbolt out/port.

Call their customer support line.
 

LordAlu

Member
Hello guys, I've got a question and I'd appreciate it if someone could answer it for me.

My current PC build which I bought several years ago has these specs:

CPU: QuadCore Intel Core i5-2500K, 3400 MHz

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H67M-D2

PSU: Corsair TX750W power Supply

RAM: 8GB DDR3

My PC has served me well for many years an I'm still able to play new-ish games at 1080p making some compromises (30FPS lock, no-aa, medium-high settings).

I'm pretty low on budget but I was thinking that getting a Geforce GTX 1050 ti would be pretty affordable and surely a very significant boost in gaming performance. My question is, do any of you guys know if I can use a 1050 ti with my current motherboard and PSU? I honestly don't know how to tell and I'd rather ask than buy it to realize I can't use it without another component I can't afford right now. Thanks.
What GPU do you currently have?

You can use the 1050 Ti no problem, but it's actually not that good value for money right now - the price is too close to the RX 470 which outperforms it handily.
 

Rommel

Junior Member
Started my build eariler than I thought I would but decided to bite the bullet when I got an X99 CPU and MOBO for $400. Overall this PC cost me about $1,000 and I'll upgrade next year from the 1060 to a 1080ti and toss in a 960 Pro 500 GB.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/B6MDzM
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/B6MDzM/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($368.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI X99S SLI Plus ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.30 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($234.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Inwin 303 White ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME 750W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($152.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1259.23
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-28 13:22 EDT-0400
 
What GPU do you currently have?

You can use the 1050 Ti no problem, but it's actually not that good value for money right now - the price is too close to the RX 470 which outperforms it handily.

Thank you! I have a GTX 570, ancient story by now so I hoped to get a big boost in performance with the 1050 ti. I've never bought an AMD card before and I'm familiarized with nvidia's apps (geforce experience, inspector etc.) that's why it never even occurred to me to buy something else, but I'll look into the 470.
 
Need some advice.

I just build a new PC, mostly for audio/video editing, but also for some gaming. Maybe even as my main platform.

i7 6700k
960gb SSD
16GB ram

Originally was going to go with a 1070. Best Buy just happened to have 6GB 1060 SSCs so I grabbed one too. Figured it was worth a shot to see if I could still play games with almost max settings at 1080p.

My question is, do you think it is worth it to just pay the extra $150 now and put the 1070. Or should the 1060 be good enough for the next year or two?
 

kennah

Member
Need some advice.

I just build a new PC, mostly for audio/video editing, but also for some gaming. Maybe even as my main platform.

i7 6700k
960gb SSD
16GB ram

Originally was going to go with a 1070. Best Buy just happened to have 6GB 1060 SSCs so I grabbed one too. Figured it was worth a shot to see if I could still play games with almost max settings at 1080p.

My question is, do you think it is worth it to just pay the extra $150 now and put the 1070. Or should the 1060 be good enough for the next year or two?
if you are happy with the 1060 then be happy with the 1060

A bird in the hand is worth two benchmarks in the bush.
 
So Apple's dissapointing new laptops have me interested in PCs again but the only computer I built was in 2013 and I'm not sure how far behind it is in specs.

My processor is a i5 3570k. GPU is a GTX 670. I'm already looking at the GTX1060/70/80 because I scored a 4k monitor for cheap.

I'm not necessarily looking to use it for games...I work in post production so a lot of uses would be After Effects and whatnot, but AE uses Cuda to improve performance so might as well mix work and play.



How is the 3570k match up with whats currently out? Which GPU should I be looking at for 4k gaming? And my cabling is a mess...where do I find the sweet cables that I see everyone use on their machines...
 
So Apple's dissapointing new laptops have me interested in PCs again but the only computer I built was in 2013 and I'm not sure how far behind it is in specs.

My processor is a i5 3570k. GPU is a GTX 670. I'm already looking at the GTX1060/70/80 because I scored a 4k monitor for cheap.

I'm not necessarily looking to use it for games...I work in post production so a lot of uses would be After Effects and whatnot, but AE uses Cuda to improve performance so might as well mix work and play.



How is the 3570k match up with whats currently out? Which GPU should I be looking at for 4k gaming? And my cabling is a mess...where do I find the sweet cables that I see everyone use on their machines...


Your CPU is still totally fine. Especially if you overclock it, you can easily use it ~two more years. For 4K, I'd personally go with atleast a 1070.
 

Afrodium

Banned
After months of deliberation I'm thinking of building a PC soon. This will be the first time I've built/had a gaming PC so I'm kind of out of my depth regarding what kind of machine to build. I look at reviews and benchmarks of video cards and CPUs and obviously want the best, but then I think of my needs and I'm not sure that I really need the best of the best. I'd be looking for a good starter machine that can handle AAA releases of today and the next few years, but is also easy to upgrade if I want to take it to the next level. I keep meaning towards the Excellent - Best Overall build in Haz's sheet in the OP, but I'm not sure I actually need something that good/expensive if I will mainly be playing indies, older PC games I've missed, and the occasional graphically intensive game. At the same time, I don't want to build a budget PC and then have to upgrade it in a year or two. Hopefully this thread can help out.

[Basic Desktop Questions]

Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)

Uhhh, nothing. This will be my first gaming PC. My only computer at the moment is a 2009 MacBook Pro and an iPad Air.

Budget: Price Range + Country

Unites States. Looking to spend around $1000 but I'm willing to go higher if required.

Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).

Light gaming - 5? It will be mainly a gaming machine and I assume light gaming overlaps with gaming?
Gaming - 5
Emulation - 3
Video Editing - 1
Streaming games in HD - 1
3D model work - 1
General usage - 3

Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?

1080p is fine with me. I would like a high refresh rate 144hz as well. As I don't have a desktop PC at the moment this will be a new monitor.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 144? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?

I would want to be capable playing new AAA releases at 1080p 60fps for the foreseeable future. I play mostly indies and expect to be playing a good deal of older games, so I probably won't be pushing this machine to the limit too often, but I want to know that my rig can handle any AAA release for the next few years. I don't need to be playing on ultra settings either, console quality or better at 60fps is fine with me. However, if I do eventually decide that I'm all I'm on PC gaming and want to make a bleeding edge machine then I'd like to be able to easily upgrade the current build.

Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750TX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)

No parts to use.

When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?

I'm hoping to buy the parts on Black Friday/Cyber Monday.

Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
I don't think so
 

BizzyBum

Member
I just noticed MSI Afterburner doesn't show any adjustments to my core clock when trying to OC my 1080 but it shows my memory clock adjustments fine. My core clock is stuck at 1607 and won't move.

Also, when I monitor my system with OpenHardwareMonitor the GPU clock always show 1607 and 5005 for current, min, and max no matter what.

Any solutions?
 

LilJoka

Member
I just noticed MSI Afterburner doesn't show any adjustments to my core clock when trying to OC my 1080 but it shows my memory clock adjustments fine. My core clock is stuck at 1607 and won't move.

Also, when I monitor my system with OpenHardwareMonitor the GPU clock always show 1607 and 5005 for current, min, and max no matter what.

Any solutions?

Increased the power limit?
 

Dalto11

Member
I was given a bunch of parts. Basically I motherboard with an AM3+ socket. I'm looking to get a AMD FX 8350 with the wraith cooler. I was given an GTX 950 mini 2GB, as well as 8 GBs of RAM. Will a 600 Watts be enough for this? I can dig up a complete list of parts if needed. Also, my case Iw as given is ancient but the board fits great, plenty of room. The case only has two, smaller fans and I'm worried about cooling effiencency. Will the wraith cooler be enough for the CPU? Will I need a couple of larger case fans?
 
I really doubt that's the real temp, could be hwmonitor doesn't know how to read that motherboard's temp sensor correctly. Check it out in ai suite and in bios.

Aida64 says the bios temps are in the mid to low 20s.

So guys, maybe some of are you are interested in seeing the final product. I managed to find a 140MM PWM fan I could install as an exhaust even WITH the Noctua NH-D15.

Behold, my Mini ITX PC and small desk area.

I don't know what I was thinking when I put the badges on there. They're ugly and a bitch to remove. Oh well.
 
Aida64 says the bios temps are in the mid to low 20s.

So guys, maybe some of are you are interested in seeing the final product. I managed to find a 140MM PWM fan I could install as an exhaust even WITH the Noctua NH-D15.

Behold, my Mini ITX PC and small desk area.


I don't know what I was thinking when I put the badges on there. They're ugly and a bitch to remove. Oh well.

Looks great dude congrats. Try using floss to remove the badges, clean up to excess adhesive with some iso alcohol.
 
Aida64 says the bios temps are in the mid to low 20s.

So guys, maybe some of are you are interested in seeing the final product. I managed to find a 140MM PWM fan I could install as an exhaust even WITH the Noctua NH-D15.

Behold, my Mini ITX PC and small desk area.


I don't know what I was thinking when I put the badges on there. They're ugly and a bitch to remove. Oh well.

Nice.
 

Dio

Banned
I had no idea what Intel XMP was until now. I wonder how I didn't hear about it.

I was looking at my bios and looking at random numbers and saw that my RAM was being read as '2133 mhz'. Mine is 3000 so I was like 'what?'

Turns out that I have to turn on Extreme Memory Profile to make my mobo run the RAM at the mhz it's supposed to be.


This type of thing.

Well, now I know. I've never had RAM that uses this before.
 

Thanks.

BTW. The low profile exhaust fan helped. A lot! And for this particular build, the Noctua blew the H100i V2 out of the water (ironically enough!) I like that the build isn't ostentatious. It's obviously a pretty high end machine but it isn't flashy. It's beautifully utilitarian. I think a lot of PC enthusiasts would look at it and say "that is a solid computer."
 

Dio

Banned
Thanks.

BTW. The low profile exhaust fan helped. A lot! And for this particular build, the Noctua blew the H100i V2 out of the water (ironically enough!) I like that the build isn't ostentatious. It's obviously a pretty high end machine but it isn't flashy. It's beautifully utilitarian. I think a lot of PC enthusiasts would look at it and say "that is a solid computer."

Congratulations! That looks pretty great. I agree with you in that it doesn't look too ostentatious and like a typical GAMER PC.

I like how my own build came out like that, too. I really like that PNY's 1060 is a black slab when looking at it from the window instead of an LED or a logo for the graphics card, and I like that all my parts just happened to look pretty nice when put together with nothing looking terribly out of place. As seen here like I posted a couple days ago.


Yeah, my phone camera sucks at low light so putting on flash doesn't look great.

The one thing I still have to do, though, is that a weird orange light comes on when I power the PC on that illuminates the link between the audio thing on the motherboard and the rear audio port.

Apparently you can turn it off in the BIOS. It seems really out of place.

 
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