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[LilJoka]

So I just bought an i7-6700K and a Asus Z170I Gaming MINI ITX board.

I'm somewhat disappointed in the overclocking. I haven't found a stable OC yet. Aida 64 failed after about 45 minutes @ 4.6GHz and 1.310VCORE (manual). I bumped it up to 1.325V but haven't had a chance to run a long stability test yet. Am I wrong for thinking this is kind of shitty?

A few questions though. Once I find a stable OC, what's the ideal situation w/ regards to the voltage? I don't want it to constantly be fed a 1.325 CPU core voltage even when it's in idle so what do I do? Set it to adaptive Set it to auto? If I set it to auto or adaptive what do I need to do in order to ensure the max voltage is what I'd like for it to be (1.325 for example). Is that how that works, do I set a voltage ceiling? How do I do that? Argh!

Another question:

Thankfully, this MOBO supports PWM on all the fan headers. Is there any way I can tie the case fan speed to the CPU AND the GPU temp? I want them to rev up for both the CPU AND the GPU since airflow inside the case is fairly restrictive.

Another question: I've got a very similar setup to Linus in his Evolv ITX video. Here's a screenshot.

I have an Noctual NH-D15 which I'm finding a lot easier to manage, performs about as well if not better while being significantly quieter and less wonky than the Corsair 100i V2 water cooler. I can't recommended it highly enough HOWEVER... like the setup pictured above... there's isn't an exhaust fan. The reason for this is that the Noctua cooler doesn't allow for enough clearance to fit a full thickness 120 or 140MM fan behind the leftmost tower. There's about an inch of clearance - a couple MM more and there'd be room but unfortunately there isn't.

My question, is this a big deal or does it not matter since the fins are so close to the exhaust vent anyway? There are thin profile 140 and 120MM fans. Do you think it would be a wise investment or do you think it won't make much of a difference?

I run 4.5Ghz at 1.35v and 4.4Ghz 1.32v same CPU same board. My chip is just below average, plus ITX boards don't help. Although I'm prime95 28.9 stable.

About the CPU fan and exhaust, I would see if you can get a slim fan installed as an exhaust. If temps are ok then I wouldn't bother.

You cannot tie the case fan speed to the GPU, only the CPU or motherboard temp. What you want to do really isn't going to have much impact anyway so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[lostsupper]

So I just bought an i7-6700K and a Asus Z170I Gaming MINI ITX board.

I'm somewhat disappointed in the overclocking. I haven't found a stable OC yet. Aida 64 failed after about 45 minutes @ 4.6GHz and 1.310VCORE (manual). I bumped it up to 1.325V but haven't had a chance to run a long stability test yet. Am I wrong for thinking this is kind of shitty?

A few questions though. Once I find a stable OC, what's the ideal situation w/ regards to the voltage? I don't want it to constantly be fed a 1.325 CPU core voltage even when it's in idle so what do I do? Set it to adaptive Set it to auto? If I set it to auto or adaptive what do I need to do in order to ensure the max voltage is what I'd like for it to be (1.325 for example). Is that how that works, do I set a voltage ceiling? How do I do that? Argh!

Another question:

Thankfully, this MOBO supports PWM on all the fan headers. Is there any way I can tie the case fan speed to the CPU AND the GPU temp? I want them to rev up for both the CPU AND the GPU since airflow inside the case is fairly restrictive.

Another question: I've got a very similar setup to Linus in his Evolv ITX video. Here's a screenshot.

I have an Noctual NH-D15 which I'm finding a lot easier to manage, performs about as well if not better while being significantly quieter and less wonky than the Corsair 100i V2 water cooler. I can't recommended it highly enough HOWEVER... like the setup pictured above... there's isn't an exhaust fan. The reason for this is that the Noctua cooler doesn't allow for enough clearance to fit a full thickness 120 or 140MM fan behind the leftmost tower. There's about an inch of clearance - a couple MM more and there'd be room but unfortunately there isn't.

My question, is this a big deal or does it not matter since the fins are so close to the exhaust vent anyway? There are thin profile 140 and 120MM fans. Do you think it would be a wise investment or do you think it won't make much of a difference?

That speed at that voltage is a little better than average. 1.4V is totally fine for your board and cpu, 1.45V if your cooler can hang. The other questions you're asking suggest that you really need to do more reading. Asus published two Skylake overclocking guides that are short and easy to follow. Start there.

Regarding the exhaust fan, it probably doesn't need one, but it'll depend on a lot of things. Your GPU will be more affected by poor exhaust than your cpu, so use GPU temps as a gauge. If you discover that more exhaust would help your system, you could put in a slim fan or swap the D15 for a single tower cooler and use a regular exhaust fan.

You can use GPU temps to regulate fan speed if you have temperature sensor units. I don't know if that board comes with them. Asus Pascal cards actually have a 4pin header to control a case fan directly.

 

[Mineshaft_Gap]

Here's my setup, for reference.

I have an extra 140MM Noctua fan I could mount in the ceiling as either an exhaust or an intake. I don't know how much good it would be doing blowing down or up out of the chassis though.

I went for High Static Pressure fans because of the restrictive airflow in the front and top of the case (air has to come in through small slits.)

 

[Mineshaft_Gap]

That speed at that voltage is a little better than average. 1.4V is totally fine for your board and cpu, 1.45V if your cooler can hang. The other questions you're asking suggest that you really need to do more reading. Asus published two Skylake overclocking guides that are short and easy to follow. Start there.

I've done a lot of reading and watching youtube videos. This piece of information escapes me. Everyone just says to set it to manual for stress testing they don't say what to do after stress testing for daily use. Not to be a bitch but if you know the answer why not just say it?

You can use GPU temps to regulate fan speed if you have temperature sensor units. I don't know if that board comes with them. Asus Pascal cards actually have a 4pin header to control a case fan directly.

This is extremely useful. Thank you. Someone actually recently offered to trade their STRIX card for my FTW card.

 

[LilJoka]

I've done a lot of reading and watching youtube videos. This piece of information escapes me. Everyone just says to set it to manual for stress testing they don't say what to do after stress testing for daily use. Not to be a bitch but if you know the answer why not just say it?

This is extremely useful. Thank you. Someone actually recently offered to trade their STRIX card for my FTW card.

Set fans to full speed while stress testing.
For daily usage my fan rpm sits at 600-800rpm and ramps up to 1000-1200rpm by 75c CPU temp. The guidance would be to run as low speed as possible. My daily usage lets the CPU peak at around 75-80c and run at 65-70c avg under load.

For daily vcore on Asus skylake boards:
Set to Adaptive
Set Turbo voltage to the manual vcore you found stable.
Then add a 0.05v offset.

Tweak till the vcore is sitting back at what was seen under manual. I then add another 0.02-0.03v to the offset to garuntee stability.

LLC should be set to Level 5.

 

[lostsupper]

I've done a lot of reading and watching youtube videos. This piece of information escapes me. Everyone just says to set it to manual for stress testing they don't say what to do after stress testing for daily use. Not to be a bitch but if you know the answer why not just say it?

Teach a man to fish, and all that. I could tell you to set your board to adaptive voltage, but if you don't know what that actually does and what the terms we're using mean, you'll be unequipped to troubleshoot your own situation in the future.

Seriously, start with the Asus guides. There's a short, beginner's layman-friendly guide and one targeting extreme overclocking. The manual your board came with will explain all the UEFI options in detail as well. Overclock.net has a thread on Asus/Skylake with overclock results data and a step-by-step overclock/stress testing guide.

 

[hockeypuck]

In the process of building a Steambox for the living room, is there any good or recommended wireless keyboard/mouse combo?

This is one I found, anything else better?
Keyboard: Logitech K400 Plus Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad ($27.85 @ Amazon)

 

[Big Chungus]

If i want my pc to last another 3-4 years, should i grab a 1060 pr 1070?

Im ok with 1080p 60fps gaming.

I have a i5 4670k cpu and 8gb memory

 

[BIGWORM]

If i want my pc to last another 3-4 years, should i grab a 1060 pr 1070?

Im ok with 1080p 60fps gaming.

I have a i5 4670k cpu and 8gb memory

Depends on what you want to play. VR? No? 1070. I have that same CPU on a ASUS Z97-e with 16GB Ripjaws X, but I got a 1080 for VR.

 

[Iorv3th]

Didnt want to make a thread for this, but I think my hard drive is dying. Its making noise like a grinding sound. Is there anyway for me to check if my hard drive is dying? I already bought a 2 TB replacement that should be here Friday.

Western digital has a program for checking drive health. Get everything backed up asap.

If i want my pc to last another 3-4 years, should i grab a 1060 pr 1070?

Im ok with 1080p 60fps gaming.

I have a i5 4670k cpu and 8gb memory

1070 is the safe bet. However if you don't mind playing with medium settings 1060 should be fine (for future games, should do above medium but for 60fps reliable in 4 you might be turning settings down) . Would also recommend more ram, cheap enough to add another 8gb.

 

[intheinbetween]

In the process of building a Steambox for the living room, is there any good or recommended wireless keyboard/mouse combo?

This is one I found, anything else better?
Keyboard: Logitech K400 Plus Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad ($27.85 @ Amazon)

Try looking for Logitech's Dinovo Edge, it's the best wireless keyboard ever for HTPCs/living room pcboxes

It's pretty old but there's no other wireless keyboard better than it

 

[Mahnmut]

The RX480 is clearly the cheaper card, and the 1060 is much better performing... So it's really down to how much you want to spend over 7-10 fps average more than you get with the 1060 at a chunk more.

It really comes down to the experience you want now vs saving some money to put to your new PC.

For new games like that with Direct X 12 support I'd choose the RX 480, but you really can't go wrong with either.

Ok I think I'll grab the 480 since it's just a small upgrade for now and I don't want to spend too much cash on it.

I was thinking about the Sapphire Nitro+ RX 480. I've read it's the best model out there. What do you think ?

A last question : I have a 530w PSU, is it enough for this card ?

Thanks again guys

 

[Dio]

WE DO IT! My first from scratch tower build since 2011. It's been a long time since 2500k was new. Been stuck on a Macbook.

Wow, that took longer than I remember it taking.

I ain't pulling off the protective film until my M.2 gets here, but I was successfully able to get to 'install windows' with my thumbstick.

S340 Elite looks gorgeous and somehow all the parts I ended up choosing fit the black theme perfectly. I didn't know the PNY had a solid black side and that the top of the H7 would be black, too.

 

[thuway]

Looking for a new build. Would you guys reccomend waiting for Z270 or just buying a good deal on a Z170 on black Friday?

I'm worried I'll miss out in new must have features likes Intel Optane and motherboards that natively support USB 3.1 in copious number.

I'm planning a DanCase build or a Ncase. So I'm very hype!

 

[jon bones]

Do games reliably support 21:9?

i'm curious about this too - i think i want a 34'' ultra wide instead of 2 smaller monitors

 

[Mahnmut]

I have an opportunity to buy a Fury Tri X for 30€ more than a 480 (that I was planning to buy). What should I do PC Gaf ? If I take the Fury I'll have to buy a new PSU

 

[Pagusas]

Try looking for Logitech's Dinovo Edge, it's the best wireless keyboard ever for HTPCs/living room pcboxes

It's pretty old but there's no other wireless keyboard better than it

I agree with this posted, used one fore years till it finally broke. Sadly finding one now at any sort of reasonable price is hard

Otherwise this is the one I use now and it works great, range can be spotty at 14ft though. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZOPVSKW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I don't think I could live without the top left mouse button (it's on the top of the keyboard). Seems silly when you first get it but once you learn to use it, you'll never go back.

 

[lostsupper]

In the process of building a Steambox for the living room, is there any good or recommended wireless keyboard/mouse combo?

This is one I found, anything else better?
Keyboard: Logitech K400 Plus Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad ($27.85 @ Amazon)

The Logitech K830 is the K400, but with rechargable battery, backlit/dimmable keys, and a sturdier, aluminum reinforced frame.

 

[Fachasaurus]

Ty for all the recommendations guys, looks like the monitor will end up a bit more expensive than anticipated but i might as well.




Do games reliably support 21:9?

i'm curious about this too - i think i want a 34'' ultra wide instead of 2 smaller monitors

Reliably? Well it's gotten much better since when these resolutions first started becoming popular. You'll still see issues sometimes at launch and you might need to edit an ini or startup properties to get it running. Occasionally the UI elements won't span the 21:9 resolution so the HUD with your ammo or minimap or objectives will still stay in the same space near the center as if it was 16:9 with the rest of the scenery extending across the rest of the resolution.

But on a brighter note, lots of games are growing support it, especially for initial launch 21:9 support. Titanfall 2, Battlefield 1 and Gears of War 4 for example have support right out of the gate. And they all look and perform properly. Games like Dark Souls 3 still gives me a headache to make it run properly. Ori and the Blind Forest didn't support it until the definitive edition. Hyperlight Drifter I believe doesn't have support for it yet either. Overwatch doesn't support the ultra wide resolution completely since Blizz considers it an unfair advantage to see more than other players.

But it is what it is, lots of games are getting much better. So I would still recommend it. But be prepared to look up a fix or hack every once in a while - especially for older titles. Hope that helped!

 

[jon bones]

Reliably? Well it's gotten much better since when these resolutions first started becoming popular. You'll still see issues sometimes at launch and you might need to edit an ini or startup properties to get it running. Occasionally the UI elements won't span the 21:9 resolution so the HUD with your ammo or minimap or objectives will still stay in the same space near the center as if it was 16:9 with the rest of the scenery extending across the rest of the resolution.

But on a brighter note, lots of games are growing support it, especially for initial launch 21:9 support. Titanfall 2, Battlefield 1 and Gears of War 4 for example have support right out of the gate. And they all look and perform properly. Games like Dark Souls 3 still gives me a headache to make it run properly. Ori and the Blind Forest didn't support it until the definitive edition. Hyperlight Drifter I believe doesn't have support for it yet either. Overwatch doesn't support the ultra wide resolution completely since Blizz considers it an unfair advantage to see more than other players.

But it is what it is, lots of games are getting much better. So I would still recommend it. But be prepared to look up a fix or hack every once in a while - especially for older titles. Hope that helped!

if you're having trouble, could you run those games in 2560x1440 with black lines on the sides?

 

[AAMARMO]

Hey people im currently building my pc right this moment and im stuck. I dont know what cable to put in EXT FAN do i have to buy a new cable?

 

[killertofu]

http://www.kmart.com/upstar-28inch-...KMTSTDOCFTransKMTOrderProcessing&rioptype=KMT


So I bought this monitor on a whim. My GTX670 probably can't handle anything at 4k right

 

[Ostinatto]

What is the consensus on the best GTX 1070 model?

thanks.

 

[lostsupper]

Hey people im currently building my pc right this moment and im stuck. I dont know what cable to put in EXT FAN do i have to buy a new cable?

It's a fan header. You plug a fan into it.

This is covered in your board's instruction manual. There should be a page diagramming all the headers and ports.

 

[AAMARMO]

It's a fan header. You plug a fan into it.

This is covered in your board's instruction manual. There should be a page diagramming all the headers and ports.

None of my fans fit in it tho .

My z170 pro gaming dont recognise all my of my fans.

 

[LordAlu]

None of my fans fit in it tho .

My z170 pro gaming dont recognise all my of my fans.

What do the cables coming off your fans look like (take a picture of the cable end if you can)?

 

[AAMARMO]

What do the cables coming off your fans look like (take a picture of the cable end if you can)?

Img

 

[Bloodember]

Looking for a new build. Would you guys reccomend waiting for Z270 or just buying a good deal on a Z170 on black Friday?

I'm worried I'll miss out in new must have features likes Intel Optane and motherboards that natively support USB 3.1 in copious number.

I'm planning a DanCase build or a Ncase. So I'm very hype!

The new Z270 boards won't be out till Q1 2017 at the earliest. Most if not all Z170 boards have USB 3.1 on them already. If you think you are going to use the new features then wait. Also don't expect big discounts on black Friday, I haven't seen big sales on components on black Friday ever.

 

[AAMARMO]

Everything is working fine but the fans are not working

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

None of my fans fit in it tho .

My z170 pro gaming dont recognise all my of my fans.

Use cha_fan(s) and cpu_fan slots. If you need more slots, buy a fan splitter cable.

the 3 pin versions fit into the 4 pin slots.

If they still don't work, go into bios and see if there is some wonky fan profile screwing up. If they still don't work, you might have to send the board back.

 

[lostsupper]

Everything is working fine but the fans are not working

Here's the manual:

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/Z170-PRO-GAMING/E10719_Z170_PRO_GAMING_UM_V2_WEB.pdf

Scroll down to 1.2.3 Motherboard Layout.

So apparently it's for an Asus-specific fan that isn't sold anymore.

 

[AAMARMO]

Thanks people but my fans are not spinning or recognised .

 

[AAMARMO]

Everything's is working now .

 

[Avenger54321]

Hey Gaf, I just got my motherboard and RAM today (collected half of my parts so far), and the next part I'm thinking of going for is my PSU. Now I am going to get the SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX PSU, but have a few questions.

My Rig has:
i5-6500
Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151
8GB of RAM
MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB GAMING X Video Card

I have a few questions about this power supply:

• Will it be enough for my PC?
• How good is Seasonic's PSU? I heard their one of the best PSU manufacturers.
• Is it rare to get a DOA PSU?
• If u have a better one that cost $65 (or $70), or one just as good for a little less, let me know please.

 

[LilJoka]

Hey Gaf, I just got my motherboard and RAM today (collected half of my parts so far), and the next part I'm thinking of going for is my PSU. Now I am going to get the SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX PSU, but have a few questions.

My Rig has:
i5-6500
Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151
8GB of RAM
MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB GAMING X Video Card

I have a few questions about this power supply:

• Will it be enough for my PC?
• How good is Seasonic's PSU? I heard their one of the best PSU manufacturers.
• Is it rare to get a DOA PSU?
• If u have a better one that cost $65 (or $70), or one just as good for a little less, let me know please.

Its enough wattage for your specs
Very good
Very rare

 

[Jezbollah]

I have a Seasonic 700w PSU. It's fantastic.

 

[Jezbollah]

What is the consensus on the best GTX 1070 model?

thanks.

I would say the ASUS Strix or EVGA FTW.

 

[Avenger54321]

Its enough wattage for your specs
Very good
Very rare

I have a Seasonic 700w PSU. It's fantastic.

Alright, thanks. I'll go with Seasonic

 

[Gen.Grievous]

Img

EXT_FAN is for an external fan hub not for connecting fans.

Use CHA_FANx for case fans.

 

[Mineshaft_Gap]

So I have another question. Once again, setup:

Intel i7-6700K @ 4.6GHz @ Manual 1.325V
Noctua NH-D15
Asus Z170I Gaming
16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 w/ XMP Enabled @ 3000Mhz / 15-17-17-35
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
Silverstone PS-ST75F-GS
250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD (BOOT)
1TB WD Blue HDD (GAMES)
3TB (MEDIA)


Last night my PC had been working when I did a stress temperature test using AIDA64. The temps were peaking in the mid 70's on a Noctua NH-D15 after about half an hour. I didn't want to leave the stress test running over night so I made sure it was disabled. I wasn't testing for stability as much as I was testing for temperatures (planned on doing long tests tonight).

Anyways, it's on all night just idling (idle temps between 25C and 35C). I don't notice if it's on or not when I left for work.

When I get back home the PC is turned off. I go to push the power button and it's dead. No sign of life except two LEDs on the motherboard. Neither of which are diagnostic lights, one is for the onboard audio and the other is I guess there to indicate the PC is asleep (which it wasn't.) I press down on the power button for several seconds, unplug and plug it back in. Remove the and rearrange the ram (try one stick, try the other, try one slot, try the other). Remove my GPU.

I then go grab a different PSU but the same thing continues to happen. Won't power on - no fans, no nothing.

Then I bridged the CMOS terminals to reset CMOS and the computer sprung to life. I retraced my steps every time. Powered off, reinstalled GPU, powered on. Powered off, reinstalled both RAM sticks, powered on. Used test PSU - powered on fine. Used normal PSU - powered on fine.

So resetting CMOS resolved the issue. So my question is, what the fuck and why?

I didn't mess with anything besides very rudimentary OC stuff and it was not being stressed. I noticed the cable connecting the front panel audio had come undone. I'm not how that happened - if the front panel audio became shaken or jarred loose could that case the problem I described? Should I worry about my CPU/MOBO/RAM? I bought them three days ago and still have a window to take them back.

Any ideas? Why would my PC play dead until a CMOS reset takes place?

 

[DjRalford]

So I have another question. Once again, setup:

Intel i7-6700K @ 4.6GHz @ Manual 1.325V
Noctua NH-D15
Asus Z170I Gaming
16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 w/ XMP Enabled @ 3000Mhz / 15-17-17-35
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
Silverstone PS-ST75F-GS
250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD (BOOT)
1TB WD Blue HDD (GAMES)
3TB (MEDIA)


Last night my PC had been working when I did a stress temperature test using AIDA64. The temps were peaking in the mid 70's on a Noctua NH-D15 after about half an hour. I didn't want to leave the stress test running over night so I made sure it was disabled. I wasn't testing for stability as much as I was testing for temperatures (planned on doing long tests tonight).

Anyways, it's on all night just idling (idle temps between 25C and 35C). I don't notice if it's on or not when I left for work.

When I get back home the PC is turned off. I go to push the power button and it's dead. No sign of life except two LEDs on the motherboard. Neither of which are diagnostic lights, one is for the onboard audio and the other is I guess there to indicate the PC is asleep (which it wasn't.) I press down on the power button for several seconds, unplug and plug it back in. Remove the and rearrange the ram (try one stick, try the other, try one slot, try the other). Remove my GPU.

I then go grab a different PSU but the same thing continues to happen. Won't power on - no fans, no nothing.

Then I bridged the CMOS terminals to reset CMOS and the computer sprung to life. I retraced my steps every time. Powered off, reinstalled GPU, powered on. Powered off, reinstalled both RAM sticks, powered on. Used test PSU - powered on fine. Used normal PSU - powered on fine.

So resetting CMOS resolved the issue. So my question is, what the fuck and why?

I didn't mess with anything besides very rudimentary OC stuff and it was not being stressed. I noticed the cable connecting the front panel audio had come undone. I'm not how that happened - if the front panel audio became shaken or jarred loose could that case the problem I described? Should I worry about my CPU/MOBO/RAM? I bought them three days ago and still have a window to take them back.

Any ideas? Why would my PC play dead until a CMOS reset takes place?

Is it set to stay on always on power settings? or hibernate after so long?

Any settings in the bios for when it hibernates?

Only thing i can think of is it went into a hibernate state, and something in the bios was stopping it starting up, as it has its own battery and hibernate data i think is stored on the HDD even after changing stuff it may have still had a signal stopping it from switching on.

When it eventually started did it boot up normally? with a warning it wasnt shut down? or resume straight into how you left it?

 

[mrklaw]

i'm curious about this too - i think i want a 34'' ultra wide instead of 2 smaller monitors

I've not really hit any major bloody awesome as a productivity tool too. I have a single external monitor at work, plus my MacBook screen. It's fine but I could do with more space. On my 34" ultawide I have tons of space for Skype, email, safari (for Jira etc) and still space for whatever task I need to do.

 

[『Inaba Resident』]

So my monitor that I've been using for a long time (8 years I think) stopped working today which is find since I'm overdue for an upgrade. The only problem is that I'm not sure what to get and was wondering if people here could help me out. I mainly use my computer for image/video editing and playing games (Some FPS like Overwatch and fighting games). Currently I'm thinking of getting two monitors right now.T he Acer G257HU as it apparently has good response time and image/color quality? and the BenQ XL2411Z which is made specifically for gaming but the color isn't as good? Overall, Im looking for a monitor that won't have noticeable input delay when playing the games I mentioned while also having good display. My budget is $250- $300.

 

[Mineshaft_Gap]

Is it set to stay on always on power settings? or hibernate after so long?

Any settings in the bios for when it hibernates?

Only thing i can think of is it went into a hibernate state, and something in the bios was stopping it starting up, as it has its own battery and hibernate data i think is stored on the HDD even after changing stuff it may have still had a signal stopping it from switching on.

When it eventually started did it boot up normally? with a warning it wasnt shut down? or resume straight into how you left it?

No hibernation enabled whatsoever. I want it (and have it set up) to be always on. When I booted the PC it booted as if it'd just turned on. No warning.

 

[LilJoka]

No hibernation enabled whatsoever. I want it (and have it set up) to be always on. When I booted the PC it booted as if it'd just turned on. No warning.

IMO it's not stable.
Turn the XMP off for now and see how it goes. Aida64 isn't the hardest test to pass.

Marathon-Man:
OCCT S
Linpack (Max) (From Intel's website, not from OCCT or any other place or XTU.)
P95 28.7 S

Tough:
P95 27.9
IBT (Max)

Medium:
x264 16T
ROG Realbench

Easy:
Stockfish (Chess, BMI2 version)
XTU
Aida64 (Full Suite)

The minimum I run is prime95 27.9 custom blend 12000mb ram tested.
CMOS was reset so it would boot as normal thereafter.
And it's not unusual for the PC to crash at idle. Just less likely.
Plus what LLC was used? Idle vcore? Load vcore? Is the CPU downclocking at idle?

 

[Pagusas]

So I have another question. Once again, setup:

Intel i7-6700K @ 4.6GHz @ Manual 1.325V
Noctua NH-D15
Asus Z170I Gaming
16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 w/ XMP Enabled @ 3000Mhz / 15-17-17-35
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
Silverstone PS-ST75F-GS
250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD (BOOT)
1TB WD Blue HDD (GAMES)
3TB (MEDIA)


Last night my PC had been working when I did a stress temperature test using AIDA64. The temps were peaking in the mid 70's on a Noctua NH-D15 after about half an hour. I didn't want to leave the stress test running over night so I made sure it was disabled. I wasn't testing for stability as much as I was testing for temperatures (planned on doing long tests tonight).

Anyways, it's on all night just idling (idle temps between 25C and 35C). I don't notice if it's on or not when I left for work.

When I get back home the PC is turned off. I go to push the power button and it's dead. No sign of life except two LEDs on the motherboard. Neither of which are diagnostic lights, one is for the onboard audio and the other is I guess there to indicate the PC is asleep (which it wasn't.) I press down on the power button for several seconds, unplug and plug it back in. Remove the and rearrange the ram (try one stick, try the other, try one slot, try the other). Remove my GPU.

I then go grab a different PSU but the same thing continues to happen. Won't power on - no fans, no nothing.

Then I bridged the CMOS terminals to reset CMOS and the computer sprung to life. I retraced my steps every time. Powered off, reinstalled GPU, powered on. Powered off, reinstalled both RAM sticks, powered on. Used test PSU - powered on fine. Used normal PSU - powered on fine.

So resetting CMOS resolved the issue. So my question is, what the fuck and why?

I didn't mess with anything besides very rudimentary OC stuff and it was not being stressed. I noticed the cable connecting the front panel audio had come undone. I'm not how that happened - if the front panel audio became shaken or jarred loose could that case the problem I described? Should I worry about my CPU/MOBO/RAM? I bought them three days ago and still have a window to take them back.

Any ideas? Why would my PC play dead until a CMOS reset takes place?

I had that happen once on an asrock board, apparently the overvolt protection got triggered and doesn't reset until the comms are cleared. I wasn't stress testing or anything.

 

[Little Old Man]

[Basic Desktop Questions]

Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)

Q6700/ 4GB DDR2/ Gigabyte LGA 775 MB/ AMD 5770 1GB/ OCZ 600 Watt/ Antec 300/ 750GB & 500GB mechanical.
So yeah, LONG overdue a new rig.

Budget: Price Range + Country
Ideally no more than £1000 including OS, but I could stretch to £1200 if I will masively improve the long term projection of the system. UK.

Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).

4-5. Most of my gaming is obviously currently done via PS4, but I'd like to have the option to play some of the latest multiplats on PC now and going forward (e.g. double dip on BF1, Witcher 3, etc) to exceed the IQ of the consoles. I'll also be looking to stream via Twitch in very high quality, record PS4 and PC gameplay, video editing up to 1080p, and perhaps some emulation one day.

Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?

Currently using a single 1080p TV. I'm happy to go with this for now/this resolution, though I would like to add a second monitor around 24" to allow me to use my PC on one screen, and my PS4 on the other for streaming. I'd possibly look at getting said second screen at 2K resolution. Certainly I'd like the option to game at 2K.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 144? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?

As above I'm looking at PC exclusives and any multiplats where I double dip or want better IQ. Therefore I want to run at least 1080p at 60fps in a mix of high/ultra settings with say 4x AA and other IQ features running. If I go the 2K route, I'd be happy to settle for 30 fps on high for the most demanding titles going forward, but I'd like to aim for 60 for the majority of current titles.

Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750TX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)

Not really. The kit in here is ancient, and even in the case of the PSU I want a fully modular one, and the HDDs could do with a retirement, they've been running for years.

When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?

I'm looking at before the end of the year, financials providing. Intel is releasing its 7th gen processors early next year, but IIRC they're the final refresh before the fully new architecture in 2017/18, and therefore offer minimal improvements?

The only other thing that I'm concerned with RE timing is that as currency hedges wear off around the end of this year, price rises will feed through into the PC market (due to Brexit).

Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
Not at the start, but I'd definitely look at it a couple of years in to boost the life of the rig.

Other: how much does wanting a disc drive bay hinder my choice of cases?
I'd be looking at a case and case fans which are pretty quiet when sitting idle, and lots of dust filters if possible (old carpet in the room!)

I was thinking along the lines of 6700k, 16gb DDR4 @ 3000mhz, and 1060 6GB or 1070 plus SSD, 550w PSU, etc?

 

[LilJoka]

[Basic Desktop Questions]
I was thinking along the lines of 6700k, 16gb DDR4 @ 3000mhz, and 1060 6GB or 1070 plus SSD, 550w PSU, etc?

Start point:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£220.00 @ Novatech)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£104.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£82.99 @ Novatech)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£62.48 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£60.98 @ Novatech)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1070 8GB AMP! Edition Video Card (£389.99 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£74.18 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£82.57 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1108.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-27 23:26 BST+0100

The 1070 should be kept in with priority imo.
Brexit really hurt our prices.

 

[Little Old Man]

Start point:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£220.00 @ Novatech)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£104.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£82.99 @ Novatech)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£62.48 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£60.98 @ Novatech)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1070 8GB AMP! Edition Video Card (£389.99 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£74.18 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£82.57 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1108.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-27 23:26 BST+0100

The 1070 should be kept in with priority imo.
Brexit really hurt our prices.

Jay-sus tap-dancing Christ I didn't realise the 1070 was so expensive, even relative to the 1060 6GB. Although a quick glance at benches shows how beneficial the extra grunt it is at resolutions above 1080p.

Given that I intend to stream/video edit quite a bit though would my intentions to go for a 6700k for the HT tech, and skimp on the GPU for the time being be the right call if I'm willing to sit at 1080p for now? My thinking is that the GPU can always be switched out, wheras the CPU sockets will change soon enough, making it a pain in the arse to sort if I need the extra processing power down the line?

Also, what on earth are display ports on GPUs? Why the move from just using HDMI on the back of GPUs?

 

[z3phon]

IMO it's not stable.
Turn the XMP off for now and see how it goes. Aida64 isn't the hardest test to pass.

The minimum I run is prime95 27.9 custom blend 12000mb ram tested.
CMOS was reset so it would boot as normal thereafter.
And it's not unusual for the PC to crash at idle. Just less likely.
Plus what LLC was used? Idle vcore? Load vcore? Is the CPU downclocking at idle?

question about P95. In some of the overclock videos I've seen they recommended not to use P95 because it puts too much stress on the CPU. As you already mentioned Aida64 isnt that hard to pass and I already use Realbench too for tests. Is P95 necessary for a proper stress test and is it safe to use for extended period of time?