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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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A169InchSausage

Neo Member
Im building my second PC (after selling my other to a friend a while ago)

Couple of questions

Im planning on getting an i5-6600, not the 6600K since i dont really feel confortable with overclocking CPUs and i would like to spend less than $1000. Im planning on getting a GTX1070, would that CPU be a bottleneck?

Also, since im not overclocking it, i was thinking of getting a motherboard with the H170 chipset, but all the ones ive seen so far only support DDR4 up to 2133mhz, id like something a littlw faster, i saw a z170 motherboard on amazon for $140 that supported faster ram, but if i can find a cheaper one (h170) it would be better.
 

DBT85

Member
Not sure on the price difference where you are, but here in the UK the 6600 is only £7 cheaper than the 6600k. On that basis not getting the 6600k makes no sense at all because at least you have the option later on.

While I can understand the trepidation around overclocking, with the Z170 and the 6600k or 6700k its really really really easy.


But no, your 6600 will not be a problem with the 1070.

There are also about 10 z170 boards on amazon.com under $120 US and an Asrock PRO4S for $100 EDIT: its $80 on newegg.
 

A169InchSausage

Neo Member
Not sure on the price difference where you are, but here in the UK the 6600 is only £7 cheaper than the 6600k. On that basis not getting the 6600k makes no sense at all because at least you have the option later on.

While I can understand the trepidation around overclocking, with the Z170 and the 6600k or 6700k its really really really easy.


But no, your 6600 will not be a problem with the 1070.

There are also about 10 z170 boards on amazon.com under $120 US.

On Amazon in the US the 6600k is $26 more. Plus ill have to spend more buying a cooler if i go with the 6600k

But thanks for the answer!
 

drotahorror

Member
The Logitech K400 is the way to go for navigating Windows on a comfy couch PC. You can, as LilJoka says, boot straight into Steam big picture mode, but if you ever want to bring up Netflix or Youtube or whatever it's well worth having a KB/M combo like the K400.

I'd say if you use left shift a lot get the K400, if you use right shift a lot get the k400 plus.

But yeah it's a nice wireless kb/m combo. Works as I would figure it does and I have never changed the battery in it, I've had it for almost 2 years.
 

ethomaz

Banned
Logitech G100S for the mouse. Logitech K120 for the keyboard.

Even a $50 mouse and keyboard combo will get the job done so if you really don't want to spend too much get the already recommended Logitech K120 and maybe a bit newer mouse like the G402 (successor to the g400s). Or something else, whatever feels good to you.
In general, if you’re extremely sensitive to mouse response, you may notice a difference between a wired and a wireless mouse but that's very unlikely. Still I prefer to use a wired keyboard and mouse, just because I don't want to have to change batteries or use docking stations on my desktop setup.
But if you really want to have something that feels very good to your fingers there is no way around a more expensive mechanical keyboard. Is it necessary for gaming? No. It just feels better, but you have to try it out for yourself. I picked up the steelseries g6v2 recently (black cherry switch edition, there is also one with red switches) after playing/writing on my logitech g15 for years and I already really love it. It has no extra stuff, no led lightning and a simple design but for 70€ it's a great bargain (imo). And honestly I don't need my keyboard to look like something from a sci fi movie I want it to get the job done and to feel comfortable while using it. But of course there are way better mechanical keyboards out there and we have even a gaf thread with more information and some recommendations.
Thanks I will check these.

Talking about LEDs in keyboards I do prefer them to be normal and not futuristics... a normal (possible non-gaming) and good keyboard is ideal.

The mouse I guess I will go with wired because it is a desktop after all... I'm thinking to get a wireless for my rMBP.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
On Amazon in the US the 6600k is $26 more. Plus ill have to spend more buying a cooler if i go with the 6600k

But thanks for the answer!

Definitely go with the 6600k. Overclocking is so easy and you'll get an extra 10% out of it which will help it last longer. Definitely worth $26. Especially if you're considering paying more for faster memory which might have a smaller impact on your gaming than a k processor.

Cooler you can get a hyper 212 which aren't expensive
 
I'm currently running a custom fan curve for my Asus 970 Strix to keep it sub 40C at idle and sub 60 under load but it could get really loud at 50%+ fan speed, since by default the fan does not spin under idle resulting it being around 45-50C at idle which makes me feel uncomfortable. So the question is, is that default idle setup healthy for the card? I think there has to be a middle ground between good temp and acceptable noise levels.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm currently running a custom fan curve for my Asus 970 Strix to keep it sub 40C at idle and sub 60 under load but it could get really loud at 50%+ fan speed, since by default the fan does not spin under idle resulting it being around 45-50C at idle which makes me feel uncomfortable. So the question is, is that default idle setup healthy for the card? I think there has to be a middle ground between good temp and acceptable noise levels.

Leave the fan profile alone. It is perfectly fine stock.
The card should idle lower though, around 10c above ambient temps. If it doesn't, then have a look at the clock speeds when it's idle and if there is any GPU usage. It should idle at 135mhz core as long as you have 1 monitor.
 
For a 4k-ready GTX 1080 (or maybe even 1080-SLI) build, which case should I get for optimal cooling and silence? I'm debating between Fractal Design R5, Enthoo Luxe, or MasterCase Pro 5? Price isn't an issue but I do need an optical drive.

I just built my PC in a Fractal Design Define R5 yesterday and I cannot say enough good things about this case. It was super easy to work with, cable management is amazing, looks absolutely gorgeous, and paired with my Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 is almost completely silent. Granted, I am running GPU-less until I get my 1080, but I'm still impressed. I love this case!
 
I need some purchase recommendations for a new PSU (current is OCZ ModXStream Pro 600w ) and some fans for my computer.

I'm currently running the stock fans that came with the case (Fractal R3) and what was with my Coolermaster 212, but they become super loud and it sounds like something is not right when they spin up a lot.

So is there any recommended type for aftermarket fans/cooling solutions?



For the PSU, I can understand that getting a modular one is a smart thing? Any type that is recommended? It will be used to run a i5 2500k and a 1070 sometime in the near future.
 
I need some purchase recommendations for a new PSU (current is OCZ ModXStream Pro 600w ) and some fans for my computer.

I'm currently running the stock fans that came with the case (Fractal R3) and what was with my Coolermaster 212, but they become super loud and it sounds like something is not right when they spin up a lot.

So is there any recommended type for aftermarket fans/cooling solutions?



For the PSU, I can understand that getting a modular one is a smart thing? Any type that is recommended? It will be used to run a i5 2500k and a 1070 sometime in the near future.

Why do you need to upgrade the PSU? 600w should be fine.
 

jfoul

Member
Just finished my "upgrade" build to a 1080.

eq0v7Gf.png

I'm thinking about using this case in a new build, but my PSU is 180mm long (EVGA SN G2 750). Your PSU is 165mm in length, which is over the 150mm max length recommended by Fractal. Do you think a 180mm long PSU will fit?

Edit: Looks like my PSU will fit fine. Jay is using the same PSU in this build.
 

OkayRene

Member
Are there any recommended apps for setting up fan curves from within Windows. I know you can do it from the Asus UEFI, but I'd rather be able to do it from Windows.
 

Vuze

Member
Are there any recommended apps for setting up fan curves from within Windows. I know you can do it from the Asus UEFI, but I'd rather be able to do it from Windows.
SpeedFan is probably what you're looking for. It has a pretty badly designed UI so it's best you check some YT guide to get a grip for it :D
 
Why do you need to upgrade the PSU? 600w should be fine.

When I initially built it a few years ago I threw out everything that didn't go into the machine, and now I want to run the power wires more efficiently (currently thaey are just on top of the motherboard, and not through all the holes so you can the wires in the back of cabinet).

So I want a new PSU to get the new wires, and I read somewhere that it was smart to get a new PSU every few years anyways to keep the machine healthy.
 
Leave the fan profile alone. It is perfectly fine stock.
The card should idle lower though, around 10c above ambient temps. If it doesn't, then have a look at the clock speeds when it's idle and if there is any GPU usage. It should idle at 135mhz core as long as you have 1 monitor.

Currently at stock frequency, default fan curve gives me around 41-45C, my room temp is around 27-28 (summer, no AC turned on) so I think it's within normal.
 

wilflare

Member
I'm using a i5 4570.
is there a point for me to upgrade from 2x4GB DDR3 1333 to 2x8GB DDR3 1600?

(my PSU is rather noisy too with its coil whine ugh...)
Seasonic M12II 750W
 
When I initially built it a few years ago I threw out everything that didn't go into the machine, and now I want to run the power wires more efficiently (currently thaey are just on top of the motherboard, and not through all the holes so you can the wires in the back of cabinet).

So I want a new PSU to get the new wires, and I read somewhere that it was smart to get a new PSU every few years anyways to keep the machine healthy.

To that end (efficient wiring), modular is a must. I got the following for my new build, good price, highly rated, modular:
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16817438054
 

asdad123

Member
So I purchased a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case when I upgraded from itx to ATX. Case build is great, but one problem.

The power switch doesn't work. I'd love to keep this and somehow get it fixed, since I dont want to ship the case back to Amazon. Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?

I know its not the motherboard, since I plugged in the Reset switch to the power pins and that switch works fine to turn it on and off. I tried vice versa plugging the power into the reset pins, and that doesn't work, so it looks like something is wrong with the switch? I removed the top cover and the cable is connected to the little power switch board, so I have no idea.

On a cheaper case I wouldn't care, but this was $180...
 
This might be the stupidest question on this thread so far but I have to know before I buy:

I live in a country where the electricty is according to all of europe countries,and I have a chabce to bring the evga 650p2 from amazon,which will cost me muchhh less then it will cost me here..so ky question is will the psu works the same,or do I need like some kind of adapter/transformer? Is it completley safe?
Edit: I think I failed to make myself clear:
The psu is from Amazin US and that's why i'm worried regarding the 110v/22pv stuff..
 

Varg

Banned
Any other motherboards comparable in power to the asus z170 pro in the enthusiasts build ? Have to rma mine and I'm at micro center right now and they don't have that one in stock
 

DBT85

Member
When I initially built it a few years ago I threw out everything that didn't go into the machine, and now I want to run the power wires more efficiently (currently thaey are just on top of the motherboard, and not through all the holes so you can the wires in the back of cabinet).

So I want a new PSU to get the new wires, and I read somewhere that it was smart to get a new PSU every few years anyways to keep the machine healthy.

Yeah, that last bit is balls.

A 600w will be more than enough to run what you're running. So at best you want a modular PSU.
 

finalflame

Banned
I'm thinking about using this case in a new build, but my PSU is 180mm long (EVGA SN G2 750). Your PSU is 165mm in length, which is over the 150mm max length recommended by Fractal. Do you think a 180mm long PSU will fit?

Edit: Looks like my PSU will fit fine. Jay is using the same PSU in this build.

Yup, it'll fit, as long as you don't need a lot of room down there for a pump+head+radiator. It was a bit of a pain in the ass to plug in the power cables to the PSU with the pump+fitting already down there, and my PSU is 165mm long. If you don't have a pump down there though, you're fine.

Also, goddamn, that build by Jay looks amazing. I love pastel dyes.
 

Cutwolf

Member
Depends on what HBM2 results actually are. I'd still say a few years before they're anywhere near accessible to normal consumers.

Thanks. I just upgraded to 980 ti SLI in December and it's crushing everything at 1440p. These new cards are sexy, but I'm thinking I'll hold out until 4k/144 (can't go back to 60) is available with cards that can push them.
 

Jyrii

Banned
Ok, I'll probably going to buy all other components before GTX 1070 is released.

I have already bought Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD and I am going to use my Western Digital Green 1 TB drive from my old computer.

I am planning to mostly play at 1080p. Here is what I have gathered so far:
Cpu: Intel Core i5-6600K 3,5 GHz LGA1151 270,90€
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 41,90€
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini Black Pearl- Micro-ATX 97,90€
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Gaming DDR4 3000 Mhz 16 Gt (4 x 4 Gt) 103,90€

Motherboard:
Asus Z170M-PLUS Intel Z170 LGA1151 micro-ATX 137,90€
or
ASRock Z170M Pro4S Intel Z170 LGA 1151 micro-ATX 124,90€
or
MSI Z170M MORTAR Intel Z170 LGA1151 micro-ATX 129,90€

So I basically have four questions:
- Any changes that come to mind?
- Which motherboard should I choose?
- Would that memory cause problems size-wise (OP states to use low profile memory)
- I have Corsair CX600 PSU. Would that fit the case and be enough for some overclocking, or should I just buy a new PSU?
 

ethomaz

Banned
Ok, I'll probably going to buy all other components before GTX 1070 is released.

I have already bought Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD and I am going to use my Western Digital Green 1 TB drive from my old computer.

I am planning to mostly play at 1080p. Here is what I have gathered so far:
Cpu: Intel Core i5-6600K 3,5 GHz LGA1151 270,90€
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 41,90€
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini Black Pearl- Micro-ATX 97,90€
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Gaming DDR4 3000 Mhz 16 Gt (4 x 4 Gt) 103,90€

Motherboard:
Asus Z170M-PLUS Intel Z170 LGA1151 micro-ATX 137,90€
or
ASRock Z170M Pro4S Intel Z170 LGA 1151 micro-ATX 124,90€
or
MSI Z170M MORTAR Intel Z170 LGA1151 micro-ATX 129,90€

So I basically have four questions:
- Any changes that come to mind?
- Which motherboard should I choose?
- Would that memory cause problems size-wise (OP states to use low profile memory)
- I have Corsair CX600 PSU. Would that fit the case and be enough for some overclocking, or should I just buy a new PSU?
ASUS due better quality and LAN in my opinion.

I didn't have any issue with 8x2 Ripjaws 3200 so I don't know what OP is talking and I recommend 8x2 instead 4x4 for 16GB.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Anybody have any opinions or experience on the Silverstone SG10?

It's not the best looking case around, but it doesn't look that bad and in terms of size and functionality for mATX it looks great. Even the concept/craft cases from small outfits like NCASE don't appear to be any better for my needs, the improvements are in areas that aren't relevant to me (multiple 240mm rads, dual GPUs) and appearance (which is nice, but not worth paying probably twice as much for). Plus those tend to go slightly bigger, and if I wanted to go that route I could go with a TJ08.

Also, any similar mATX cases to compare that one to?
 

appaws

Banned
For a 4k-ready GTX 1080 (or maybe even 1080-SLI) build, which case should I get for optimal cooling and silence? I'm debating between Fractal Design R5, Enthoo Luxe, or MasterCase Pro 5? Price isn't an issue but I do need an optical drive.

Cases are pretty much personal taste as long as they are from decent manufacturers. I recommend watching reviews on Hardware Canucks on Youtube for the ones you are interested in.

Those you mentioned are all good quality cases, so pick the one that suits your personal taste.
 

gunbo13

Member
So I'm looking to build a new W10 PC this year. The worst possible timing cause I have to shell out for a wedding but isn't that how PC building goes?

I have been out of the game for quite awhile (used to build custom phase cooling systems, dice, etc...). Still rocking an i7 920 rig that purrs at 4.0ghz with no extra voltage. I just bought the thermaltake open air case. I have wanted this design forever! My current PC just sits on a shelf, no case. I hate closed cases.
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002732

However, I am out of touch. And I assume a lot of people in this thread are very in touch. So I'm looking for feedback if it isn't too much trouble. I'm aiming for a skylake i7 water cooled rig. I have done the more extreme of coolings but actually skipped water cooling over the years. It wasn't efficient enough back in my time but now I want to jump in due to the noise factor. I'd like to keep this thing pretty damn quiet but have not looked at water cooling gear for years. The whole rig should overclock really well but I'm not looking to break records anymore.

CPU (Intel Core i7-6700K) $349.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117559

GPU (970)
Already owned

RAM (G.SKILL TridentZ 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3200) $84.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231929

SSD (SAMSUNG 850 EVO 500GB) $159.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W02DV8166

MB (GIGABYTE GA-Z170XP-SLI) $125.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128841

PSU (CORSAIR RM850X 850W) $109.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139141

Water CPU (Corsair Hydro Series H110i) $99.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181094

I'm not sure I want to do a Corsair GPU bracket and another block. Will see how the case looks. Any feedback/corrections would be awesome. Thanks.

EDIT:
Adding pcpartpicker link
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/rngkcc
 

LProtag

Member
So I ended up getting that HP deal a couple weeks back, considering it was still a pretty good deal for a 6700k and 980Ti despite the new cards coming in. I couldn't build something comparable with a 1070 that was similar. I also found a refurbished S2716DG on sale from Dell, so I picked that up too. Hopefully there aren't any issues with it, because I really didn't want to pay the full 500 for it, but with a nice discount was willing to go for it. They both come in on Tuesday and I'm pretty excited.

It's been forever since I've got a new PC. I'll probably move everything over to a new case so I can start gradually upgrading, etc. I know I'm not building it or anything, but for someone who hasn't had a desktop computer/something that's not a Macbook since he was in high school (10 years ago...) what should I know about setting everything up? Basically, what sort of things do you install/tweak/make sure to do/etc when you get a new PC?
 
I'm on the cusp of ordering my new pc, but have a question on the CPU. I was planning to go with an I7 6700, but some things I've read suggest I could get relatively close to the same performance out of an I5 6600 and put the savings from that to something more than the 970 GPU I was originally looking at. I've read some conflicting things online and am curious what GAF thinks.
 
Yeah, that last bit is balls.

A 600w will be more than enough to run what you're running. So at best you want a modular PSU.

I currently have a modular one, but I threw out all excess cables back then, and now I kinda need to longer cables to run them through the back of the case.

Are these type of cables universal across all PSU's? Because my PSU is out of production.
 

datsunzep

Member
You'll want a Z170 motherboard to be able to overclock the i5 6600K. My usual recommendation is the Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI, it's a bit more at $123 but it includes support for USB 3.1 and USB type C. If you want something a bit cheaper, the cheapest Z170 motherboard that has favorable reviews seems to be the Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P for roughly $100.

Best RAM? Depends on how much you want (8GB? 16GB?). Right now there's a decent deal for 16GB of 3000MHz RAM.

Keep in mind that the i5 6600K doesn't come with a CPU cooler. That's another.. $30 or so for a decent cooler that can handle overclocking.

Sorry for the late reply!

I've decided to go with the i7 6700k, as I do a lot of multitasking and was worried about 4 cores/4 threads of the i5 6600k not being enough for future proofing. We're already seeing many games take advantage of more threads. I went a little cheaper on the motherboard, probably the cheapest z170. I don't need usb 3.1 now, so I will order the ASRock Z170 Pro4S. It has decent reviews, although I've never personally used any ASRock products in the past.

Regarding the RAM you sent, I'm worried that won't clear my Hyper 212 Evo (I'm using it from my last build) on slots 1 and 3. However, these Corsair Vengenace look better, are faster, will clear the 212, and $3 cheaper.
Probably will be ordering later this week. I won't upgrading my graphics card from a 6950 2gb until Christmas, so I'll be slumming it until then. Hopefully getting a 1070/480, anxious to see benchmarks and the prices and the availability should be fantastic.

EDIT: ordered Kryonaut thermal paste. Read glowing reviews.
 

Vuze

Member
Just as a heads up, CableMod currently have a 20% off code until 10th of June.
Works for the configurator https://store.cablemod.com/configurator/ + US shop.

nvidia20

Just ordered 2x8pin PCIe connectors with ModMesh sleeving there for my EVGA PSU, let's see how they turn out.

---

Is there any way to properly hide the USB 3.0 motherboard cable btw?
Like, which cable do I need to get a shorter version of?
 
So I ended up getting that HP deal a couple weeks back, considering it was still a pretty good deal for a 6700k and 980Ti despite the new cards coming in. I couldn't build something comparable with a 1070 that was similar. I also found a refurbished S2716DG on sale from Dell, so I picked that up too. Hopefully there aren't any issues with it, because I really didn't want to pay the full 500 for it, but with a nice discount was willing to go for it. They both come in on Tuesday and I'm pretty excited.

It's been forever since I've got a new PC. I'll probably move everything over to a new case so I can start gradually upgrading, etc. I know I'm not building it or anything, but for someone who hasn't had a desktop computer/something that's not a Macbook since he was in high school (10 years ago...) what should I know about setting everything up? Basically, what sort of things do you install/tweak/make sure to do/etc when you get a new PC?

First of all, I'm not sure what sort of pre-installed unwanted programs will be on the HP, but get rid of those for starters (just removing them using the Control Panel > Uninstall program should be fine).

Next up, go to Ninite.com. Ninite is a website that creates a custom installer for all of the programs/applications you check off that you want on their site, and it's incredibly useful when you're first setting up a new PC. They've got pretty much every popular free program there, including VLC Media Player, OBS, paint.NET, and Steam.

Once that's done, you're going to want to check up on the driver situation. Now I don't know if this HP computer will have proper drivers for the 980 Ti installed out of the box, but either way, it's a good idea to go to Nvidia's website and download the latest stable driver (I recommend driver version 368.22).

With updated drivers, Steam and all of the other programs you want installed, you should be good to go! Be sure to post here about how it goes.
 
I currently trying to find the sweet spot for an OC, but Core Temp is showing a high voltage. I only have 1.33v set in the BIOS, but it's showing 1.38 in CPU-Z. Is this accurate? Is something ignoring my manual VCore setting? I have a Gigabyte Z170 SLI.
 

LilJoka

Member
I currently trying to find the sweet spot for an OC, but Core Temp is showing a high voltage. I only have 1.33v set in the BIOS, but it's showing 1.38 in CPU-Z. Is this accurate? Is something ignoring my manual VCore setting? I have a Gigabyte Z170 SLI.

CPUz is pretty accurate to 0.01v usually.

Depends:
What is the idle vcore
What is the load vcore
What are you using to load the CPU
What is load line calibration set to
 

Mohasus

Member
I'm trying to OC my 3570k. So, I wanted 4.5GHz or the highest I could achieve with 1.3v.

And this shit doesn't work at 4.3GHz (AIDA64 stability test fails after a few hours). Temps were low enough (around 60ºC, H100i)

Now, I know the reason is pretty much the lottery, but I'm wondering if other apps could affect the test. I'm asking this because after failing, I noticed that the temperatures and speed weren't going down, and checking the task manager there was a "RealTek HD audio driver" or something like that using up to 40% of my CPU. Pretty sure it isn't real as my onboard audio is disabled (I use an USB DAC/amp).

I'm going to reinstall windows, yay.
 
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