Support NeoGAF

[Durante]

I see. CPU choices are between 5820K, 6700K or 6800K. Forget that 6950X pricing lol. Both the 5820K & 6800K are 2011v3 & 6700K is 1151. That's why I'm leaning towards 2011v3 sockets/mobo instead of 1151. But it seems you get way better variety/choices on 1151 socket mobos.

Personally, I'd suggest the 5820k.

We live in a time where you can feasibly keep the same CPU for 5 years or even more, and I wouldn't be surprised at all if a few years from now the 5820k performs significantly better in most CPU-heavy games than any 4 core CPU. We're already starting to see scaling beyond 4 cores in some games right now.

 

[AAMARMO]

Is there any good places to get Intel Core i5-6600K cheaper than £199 in the UK.

 

[DBT85]

£195 on overclockers.

Free postage if you're a forum member with a certain number of posts.

 

[pager99]

Hey guys if I'm Making a pc for unity software development is there anything I should get/avoid

 

[longdi]

Yep 5820K has been a great value long term CPU for a while now, slightly more costly than the x700K quads, you do the cores/price ratio thing, it is boss. The extra PCIE lanes for US$180+ more is not worth it imo, (unless you driving many PCIE SSD?).

Some games like BF4 MP and TW3 towns will have smoother fps with the extra cores, trust me.

2011v2 sockets have all the necessities you will need, it is not like 2011v1 where we were transitioning to PCIE3.0 and USB3.0.

Sure the 6800K is just as good depending on the prices. Here, it is only US$15 more than 5820K it replaces, so i would grab that instead.

 

[Raxanas]

[

Yep 5820K has been a great value long term CPU for a while now, slightly more costly than the x700K quads, you do the cores/price ratio thing, it is boss. The extra PCIE lanes for US$180+ more is not worth it imo, (unless you driving many PCIE SSD?).

Some games like BF4 MP and TW3 towns will have smoother fps with the extra cores, trust me.

2011v2 sockets have all the necessities you will need, it is not like 2011v1 where we were transitioning to PCIE3.0 and USB3.0.

Sure the 6800K is just as good depending on the prices. Here, it is only US$15 more than 5820K it replaces, so i would grab that instead.

Dont forget that he needs a beefy cooler to cool that sexy beast.I got a 5820k and i had to buy a Noctua NH D15 to overclock it and have good temps since it has 140w compared to the pretty cooler 6700k.To be honest i would only suggest the 5820K if you do more encoding jobs since 99% of games dont use the extra cores

 

[Aztechnology]

I see. CPU choices are between 5820K, 6700K or 6800K. Forget that 6950X pricing lol. Both the 5820K & 6800K are 2011v3 & 6700K is 1151. That's why I'm leaning towards 2011v3 sockets/mobo instead of 1151. But it seems you get way better variety/choices on 1151 socket mobos.

Personally, I'd suggest the 5820k.

We live in a time where you can feasibly keep the same CPU for 5 years or even more, and I wouldn't be surprised at all if a few years from now the 5820k performs significantly better in most CPU-heavy games than any 4 core CPU. We're already starting to see scaling beyond 4 cores in some games right now.

l back this sentiment. My 5820k is a phenomenal performer, OC'd quite well (4.5 never goes above 50c on a closed loop liquid, Seidon 240m) and feasibly might see increased performance with time due to optimization as Durante stated. Not to mention you can get them for really good deals occasionally. I grabbed mine for $300 and imagine with the new Broadwell-E line out you'll see more deals for if soon.

 

[longdi]

[



Dont forget that he needs a beefy cooler to cool that sexy beast.I got a 5820k and i had to buy a Noctua NH D15 to overclock it and have good temps since it has 140w compared to the pretty cooler 6700k.To be honest i would only suggest the 5820K if you do more encoding jobs since 99% of games dont use the extra cores

I guess it depends on the luck of the draw.
A good chip at 4.3~4.5Ghz overclock using less than 1.25v vcore and 1.85v vccin, you dont need a too expensive cooler. Newer 5820K seems to do well in this regards.

I used this to cool my 5960x at 4.5Ghz before (when it was only £40), and my cores did not break 60°C in the heaviest of MP games (32°C room temps).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IYEEOMO/

In addition 2011v2 CPU have soldered on plates, so the heat transfer from chip out to the heatsink is faster and more optimal than Intel's quad cores.

There is a saying, Intel desktop quad-cores CPUs are leaky/excess chips that fail to meet mobile requirements. While Intel desktop HEDT CPUs are castrated server chips designed to rape enthusiast wallets. I really hope Zen 8cores will do good this year...

 

[AndyMoogle]

just move all the steam games on that 240GB to the 1TB? 120GB partition should be enough for windows I think, but depending on your apps I'm not so sure.

I wouldn't recommend less than 240 for your OS SSD. SSDs get a lot slower if you fill them up. Around 20-30GB at least should be available at all times on a SSD for best performance.

 

[Nosgoroth]

329.00 €	Intel i7-6700K 4.0Ghz Box
88.00 €		G.Skill Ripjaws V Black DDR4 3200 PC4-25600 16GB 2x8GB CL16
144.00 €	Asus Z170-A
30.95 €		Cooler Master Hyper 212X
136.00 €	Samsung 850 Evo SSD Series 500GB SATA3
79.00 €		NOX Hummer ZN USB 3.0 Negra
119.00 €	EVGA Supernova G2 750W 80 Plus Gold Modular
94.95 €		Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64Bits OEM
45.00 €		Build & testing service, shipping
1,065.90 €	TOTAL

I'm staring at this cart right now. Anything bad here? Should I go for the 5820K (+40€, different mobo?) for the extra cores despite the lower clock?

There's no graphics card because I'd like to stick in a barely used GTX 560 Ti I have lying around while I wait for the 1070 to release and drop a bit. Does this sound sane?

Also delaying getting mass storage because maybe 500GB solid state will be enough. I only want to game on this, my "everything else" machine is a Macbook Pro and I have a media "server" (a Win7 C2Q machine) that serves all the crap via local network.

Will this run Cave Story at an acceptable framerate?

 

[Dr. Benton Quest]

So my rig is a i5 6600k with 16gigs of DDR4 and an HD7950 with 3gigs.

Im looking to upgrade my GPU but my budget is $250.

Can I get decently significant gains on that budget? Any recommendations?

 

[AndyMoogle]

Personally, I'd suggest the 5820k.

We live in a time where you can feasibly keep the same CPU for 5 years or even more, and I wouldn't be surprised at all if a few years from now the 5820k performs significantly better in most CPU-heavy games than any 4 core CPU. We're already starting to see scaling beyond 4 cores in some games right now.

Isn't Kaby Lake going with a large eDRAM pool just like Broadwell did? That should make Kaby Lake the best for gaming without a doubt. The 5775c still beats out all other CPUs in most cases.

 

[Nohar]

Hello,

I tried to run some new games lately, but it seems my PC is having trouble doing so. I have performance issues with The Division (huge issues) and The Witcher 3, notably (and I'm having some weird issues with The Witcher 2, where a lot of places in the game are way too dark, but that is another issue altogether, though I do have some performance issues if I try to set the graphical options to High/Ultra). So, I'm looking for help here, since I have no idea what to do in order to improve my performances.
My PC hasn't been modified since September 2012.

Actual specs:

• OS: Microsoft Windows 7
• Motherboard: 1155 Asus P8Z77-V LX
• CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-2100 CPU @ 3.10GHz, 3100 MHz, 2 cores
• RAM: 1x8,00*Go (Extreme3 Ripjaws X DDR3 8 Go 1600 MHz CAS 9)
• GPU/Graphics: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 - 2 Go (huh... It shows up as "AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series" in my specs info though).
• Storage: 1 SSD (INTEL SSDSC2CT120A3 - 120 Go) & 1 Hard Drive (WDC WD10EZRX-00A8LB0 - 1 To).
• Case: Gigabyte 3D Aurora 570 (at least, mine looks like it). It was a gift.

I think that I may have a motherboard problem: it seems that they don't do 1155 sockets anymore, so if I want a new CPU, I would need to change my motherboard. And if I change my motherboard, I don't know what is going to be compatible with what I already own.
Regarding the GPU: I don't know if I should take a new AMD or take a NVIDIA instead.

Budget:
As for my budget, I'd like to not go over 500€, though I can spend more if necessary, so I'm listening. I live in Europe (France).

Main use:

• Gaming: 5
• General Usage: 4
• Emulation: 2

Monitor Resolution:
1920x1080. I don't really plan to upgrade. I own a Iiyama ProLite E2273HDS-B1.

Games I'd like to run:
I would like to run The Witcher 3 with good FPS ("good" being over 50 FPS for me, 60 FPS being ideal). Also Dark Souls 3 (which runs pretty well actually, all things considered).
Not interested in playing The Division, this game just made me realize my PC needs an upgrade.
I'm not familiar enough with PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to answer if those are important to me :'(

When will you build?
I'm not in a hurry. I can wait a couple months, though I will need to move to a new city in winter, and I'd like to have my PC ready (assuming I'm able to move it safely... Nevermind, that is my problem, I'll handle that later).

Overclocking
Probably no. Make it a "maybe", maybe?

 

[JonCha]

Waiting for the 1070 to release means I keep flirting between different mITX cases and, for now at least, the Node 304 in white looks really good. Without the GPU, the build is currently:

• i5-6600k 3.5Ghz
• Hyper 212 Evo cooler
• ASRock H170M-ITX/DL Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
• Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
• Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
• Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
• Node 304

I'm wondering what PSU to get. I was thinking this one by Silverstone. I don't really know how quiet it is though.

 

[AndyMoogle]

Actual specs:

• OS: Microsoft Windows 7
• Motherboard: 1155 Asus P8Z77-V LX
• CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-2100 CPU @ 3.10GHz, 3100 MHz, 2 cores
• RAM: 1x8,00*Go (Extreme3 Ripjaws X DDR3 8 Go 1600 MHz CAS 9)
• GPU/Graphics: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 - 2 Go (huh... It shows up as "AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series" in my specs info though).
• Storage: 1 SSD (INTEL SSDSC2CT120A3 - 120 Go) & 1 Hard Drive (WDC WD10EZRX-00A8LB0 - 1 To).
• Case: Gigabyte 3D Aurora 570 (at least, mine looks like it). It was a gift.

Budget:
As for my budget, I'd like to not go over 500€, though I can spend more if necessary, so I'm listening. I live in Europe (France).

That CPU will definitely be an issue for more than 30 fps in games nowadays. I would recommend a 6700k (or a 4790k if you want to save some money) or wait and see what Kaby Lake and Zen have to offer. There is no date for those other than we know they will be out this year.

Either way, I'd have a hard time recommending anything less than an i7 these days. I really wished I had spent the extra cash for a 2600k instead of the 2500k. My 2500k is really starting to struggle now and is a bottleneck for my GTX970. Especially if I want to aim for higher than 60 fps. 8 threads would have helped a bit with that.

I don't know the exact prices in France though, but in Sweden I can get a 6700k+motherboard+RAM for around €650. That is quite a bit outside of your price range, so looking into a 4790k or wait a bit might be a good idea.

 

[camequipped]

Waiting for the 1070 to release means I keep flirting between different mITX cases and, for now at least, the Node 304 in white looks really good. Without the GPU, the build is currently:

• i5-6600k 3.5Ghz
• Hyper 212 Evo cooler
• ASRock H170M-ITX/DL Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
• Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
• Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
• Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
• Node 304

I'm wondering what PSU to get. I was thinking this one by Silverstone. I don't really know how quiet it is though.

If you're gonna for a K CPU, you should look into getting a Z170 mobo so you can overclock or drop that CPU for a non K version to save some money.

 

[Jyrii]

Waiting for the 1070 to release means I keep flirting between different mITX cases and, for now at least, the Node 304 in white looks really good. Without the GPU, the build is currently:

• i5-6600k 3.5Ghz
• Hyper 212 Evo cooler
• ASRock H170M-ITX/DL Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
• Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
• Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
• Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
• Node 304

I'm wondering what PSU to get. I was thinking this one by Silverstone. I don't really know how quiet it is though.

Seriously get a bigger SSD. At least 256GB, but preferably even bigger.

That is if you haven't bought the parts yet.

 

[JonCha]

If you're gonna for a K CPU, you should look into getting a Z170 mobo so you can overclock or drop that CPU for a non K version to save some money.

I only put a K in because I believe they're better and more long-lasting? I don't know if that's true and what the difference is between it and a non-K CPU.

Edit: a quick Google says for those like myself that are not overclocking than the lower i5 CPU, the better. So, for example, Reddit says to go with the i5 4690 and the ASUS H170 motherboard. I could do with some clarification on this as it's beginning to get confusing as to which is 'better', if there is one.

 

[Nosgoroth]

I only put a K in because I believe they're better and more long-lasting? I don't know if that's true and what the difference is between it and a non-K CPU.

I'm going to +1 this question. I chose the 6700K because it looked like the base clock was way higher, but I don't want to fiddle with overclocking.

 

[Varg]

Someone able to help me. Just finished building this new computer . I was updating the bios and downloading Windows no problem everything booted up fine. Everyone I booted up though it would say on post that the cpu fan speed failure . Check to make sure cpu fan connector is connected to cup fan . Noticed it was on cha fan instead so I went ahead and moved it . Now the pc won't boot up at all. No power whatsoever . Any tips ? Everything was working fine just a second ago now I'm just about to give up for the day

 

[Dr. Benton Quest]

Someone able to help me. Just finished building this new computer . I was updating the bios and downloading Windows no problem everything booted up fine. Everyone I booted up though it would say on post that the cpu fan speed failure . Check to make sure cpu fan connector is connected to cup fan . Noticed it was on cha fan instead so I went ahead and moved it . Now the pc won't boot up at all. No power whatsoever . Any tips ? Everything was working fine just a second ago now I'm just about to give up for the day

How long was your CPU running with no fan?

 

[Varg]

How long was your CPU running with no fan?

The thing is the fans were spinning just really slow. It was on maybe 15 min tops ?

 

[AndyMoogle]

I only put a K in because I believe they're better and more long-lasting? I don't know if that's true and what the difference is between it and a non-K CPU.

I'm going to +1 this question. I chose the 6700K because it looked like the base clock was way higher, but I don't want to fiddle with overclocking.

The main difference is that the K models are unlocked. In some cases they've already clocked the K version higher; like the 6700K you mention.

EDIT: Looking into it, it seems that they factory OC all their K models nowadays.

 

[V1LÆM]

Is there any good places to get Intel Core i5-6600K cheaper than £199 in the UK.

i think you'll be lucky to get a new one for under £190 even if it's OEM packaging.

 

[Dr. Benton Quest]

The thing is the fans were spinning just really slow. It was on maybe 15 min tops ?

It wont post at all? Is the Motherboard speaker beeping?


Also, check to make sure you didn't accidentally turn your power supply off.

 

[Varg]

It wont post at all? Is the Motherboard speaker beeping?


Also, check to make sure you didn't accidentally turn your power supply off.

Nothing anymore . Like I said everything was working fine just a minute ago. Only thing I touched was the cpu fan connector

 

[jfoul]

Personally, I'd suggest the 5820k.

We live in a time where you can feasibly keep the same CPU for 5 years or even more, and I wouldn't be surprised at all if a few years from now the 5820k performs significantly better in most CPU-heavy games than any 4 core CPU. We're already starting to see scaling beyond 4 cores in some games right now.

I'm considering the 5820K, to replace my 4770K. MicroCenter near me has some decent deals on cpu/mobo combos. I don't really need to upgrade, but my wife could use my 4770K/GTX980 over her aging i7 950/Radeon 7950 build.

 

[CraigerGamer]

I see the new bradwell 6800k is on sale at microcenter right now. $399 ain't cheap

 

[AndyMoogle]

I'm considering the 5820K, to replace my 4770K. MicroCenter near me has some decent deals on cpu/mobo combos. I don't really need to upgrade, but my wife could use my 4770K/GTX980 over her aging i7 950/Radeon 7950 build.

It's definitely a great choice. You must OC it quite a bit though, which will require an extra ~100 W. Just something to think about.

 

[kuYuri]

Personally, I'd suggest the 5820k.

We live in a time where you can feasibly keep the same CPU for 5 years or even more, and I wouldn't be surprised at all if a few years from now the 5820k performs significantly better in most CPU-heavy games than any 4 core CPU. We're already starting to see scaling beyond 4 cores in some games right now.

Yep 5820K has been a great value long term CPU for a while now, slightly more costly than the x700K quads, you do the cores/price ratio thing, it is boss. The extra PCIE lanes for US$180+ more is not worth it imo, (unless you driving many PCIE SSD?).

Some games like BF4 MP and TW3 towns will have smoother fps with the extra cores, trust me.

2011v2 sockets have all the necessities you will need, it is not like 2011v1 where we were transitioning to PCIE3.0 and USB3.0.

Sure the 6800K is just as good depending on the prices. Here, it is only US$15 more than 5820K it replaces, so i would grab that instead.

We'll see in the future, cause so far Skylake pretty much beats almost everything in most gaming scenarios now, based on these tests.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocwwaVGUFtk

Depending on where one lives, 5820k is not that much more and makes your PC even more of a workhorse for non-gaming uses. Since I have a Micro Center near me, the 5820k is only a extra $10 right now compared to the 6700k, so it would definitely be a good investment if I ever decide to upgrade for example.

So my rig is a i5 6600k with 16gigs of DDR4 and an HD7950 with 3gigs.

Im looking to upgrade my GPU but my budget is $250.

Can I get decently significant gains on that budget? Any recommendations?

At that budget, if you don't mind waiting, the RX 480 might be a worthy investment. It's supposed to be around $200 and have the power of a GTX 980/R9 390X.

Otherwise, the best you can do is a R9 380X at around $240~ before the price jumps to $300~ for the GTX 970/R9 390.

Hello,

I tried to run some new games lately, but it seems my PC is having trouble doing so. I have performance issues with The Division (huge issues) and The Witcher 3, notably (and I'm having some weird issues with The Witcher 2, where a lot of places in the game are way too dark, but that is another issue altogether, though I do have some performance issues if I try to set the graphical options to High/Ultra). So, I'm looking for help here, since I have no idea what to do in order to improve my performances.
My PC hasn't been modified since September 2012.

Actual specs:

• OS: Microsoft Windows 7
• Motherboard: 1155 Asus P8Z77-V LX
• CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-2100 CPU @ 3.10GHz, 3100 MHz, 2 cores
• RAM: 1x8,00*Go (Extreme3 Ripjaws X DDR3 8 Go 1600 MHz CAS 9)
• GPU/Graphics: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 - 2 Go (huh... It shows up as "AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series" in my specs info though).
• Storage: 1 SSD (INTEL SSDSC2CT120A3 - 120 Go) & 1 Hard Drive (WDC WD10EZRX-00A8LB0 - 1 To).
• Case: Gigabyte 3D Aurora 570 (at least, mine looks like it). It was a gift.

I think that I may have a motherboard problem: it seems that they don't do 1155 sockets anymore, so if I want a new CPU, I would need to change my motherboard. And if I change my motherboard, I don't know what is going to be compatible with what I already own.
Regarding the GPU: I don't know if I should take a new AMD or take a NVIDIA instead.

Budget:
As for my budget, I'd like to not go over 500€, though I can spend more if necessary, so I'm listening. I live in Europe (France).

Main use:

• Gaming: 5
• General Usage: 4
• Emulation: 2

Monitor Resolution:
1920x1080. I don't really plan to upgrade. I own a Iiyama ProLite E2273HDS-B1.

Games I'd like to run:
I would like to run The Witcher 3 with good FPS ("good" being over 50 FPS for me, 60 FPS being ideal). Also Dark Souls 3 (which runs pretty well actually, all things considered).
Not interested in playing The Division, this game just made me realize my PC needs an upgrade.
I'm not familiar enough with PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to answer if those are important to me :'(

When will you build?
I'm not in a hurry. I can wait a couple months, though I will need to move to a new city in winter, and I'd like to have my PC ready (assuming I'm able to move it safely... Nevermind, that is my problem, I'll handle that later).

Overclocking
Probably no. Make it a "maybe", maybe?

At that budget, you only really need to replace the mobo, CPU, cooler, GPU, and maybe RAM. You may be able to reuse RAM if you go with the older Haswell/Devil's Canyon CPUs. For GPU, You can probably get 50+ FPS in Witcher 3 if you turn settings to High rather than Ultra on a R9 380 4GB/GTX 960 4GB. Otherwise if you're referring to Ultra settings, you're going to need an R9 390/GTX 970 to get a consistent 50+ fps.

If you're going for Ultra, it might also be worth it to wait for the RX 480 since it's supposed to be around $200 dollars, not sure about European pricing, but I would imagine it's not too far off from that hopefully.

Where do you purchase PC parts? PC Parts Picker is only giving me Amazon France as an option for ordering parts and I'm not sure how much of an Amazon shopper you are.

 

[Dr. Benton Quest]

At that budget, if you don't mind waiting, the RX 480 might be a worthy investment. It's supposed to be around $200 and have the power of a GTX 980/R9 390X.

Otherwise, the best you can do is a R9 380X at around $240~ before the price jumps to $300~ for the GTX 970/R9 390.

I'll probably just wait for the 480. Hopefully they have an 8gig model for about $250.

Nothing anymore . Like I said everything was working fine just a minute ago. Only thing I touched was the cpu fan connector

If it's not getting any power than either it's not plugged in well, the power switch on the back of your case was accidentally flipped, or the power supply is dead.

 

[HowardRoark]

Guys, I have:
- Nothing to do today
- Almost all of my PC parts minus SSD, GPU, AS5 (all won't be here until next week except GPU which is never lol)
- A Microcenter down the street

How does this plan sound:
- Go to Microcenter buy an extra tube of AS5
- Build my PC
- Install OS on the storage drive
- Get a stable CPU OC

Next week:
- Clone the HDD onto the SSD
- Format the HDD
- Wait for fucking ever for my GTX 1080

How does this plan sound? I'm itching to build this thing and get a stable CPU OC.

 

[Kaako]

I'm building a 4K rig at the moment and am in flux on a lot of parts, but I'm pretty locked in on the 6700K. I feel like that's still the processor to beat on the high-end right now (and not the crazy end). So I'll be going 1151... if that's worth anything to ya.

If you're going to use the CPU purely for gaming, then you should go with 6700k. If you do other CPU heavy work that can actually use those extra two cores, then go for a 5820k or 6800k.

EDIT: Kaby Lake is going to use 1151 as well.

Personally, I'd suggest the 5820k.

We live in a time where you can feasibly keep the same CPU for 5 years or even more, and I wouldn't be surprised at all if a few years from now the 5820k performs significantly better in most CPU-heavy games than any 4 core CPU. We're already starting to see scaling beyond 4 cores in some games right now.

l back this sentiment. My 5820k is a phenomenal performer, OC'd quite well (4.5 never goes above 50c on a closed loop liquid, Seidon 240m) and feasibly might see increased performance with time due to optimization as Durante stated. Not to mention you can get them for really good deals occasionally. I grabbed mine for $300 and imagine with the new Broadwell-E line out you'll see more deals for if soon.

Thank you guys for the valuable input, really appreciate it! I'm still leaning towards the 5820K/6800K(LGA2011v3) cause they seem like an overall better value since I also might do a bit of editing on the rig as well. As long as I can get 4-5 years of good usage out of it, I'm good which was my biggest worry atm. I'm also not gonna go too OC crazy; looking to hit at least 4-4.2Ghz on closed liquid loop solution. Man, I'm excited as hell. New builds are the best.

 

[mrklaw]

so my lovely quiet PC has a rattle. I think it is coming from the PSU fan as I've ramped the others down one by one and it doesn't go away. it does sometimes go away which I think might coincide with power increase (so the fan speeds up to dissipate the heat)

I think I've also realised that this is the noise I had previously attributed to my H60 pump. Sorry Corsair! Although I'm not sorry because you also make my PSU (GS600). Any suggestions for troubleshooting or fixing?

 

[Dr.Horrible]

Thoughts on this?

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/xTmwr7

Looking to have NCIX build it. Is there anything I'm missing with this or specific instructions that I need to tell NCIX?

 

[LilJoka]

so my lovely quiet PC has a rattle. I think it is coming from the PSU fan as I've ramped the others down one by one and it doesn't go away. it does sometimes go away which I think might coincide with power increase (so the fan speeds up to dissipate the heat)

I think I've also realised that this is the noise I had previously attributed to my H60 pump. Sorry Corsair! Although I'm not sorry because you also make my PSU (GS600). Any suggestions for troubleshooting or fixing?

This is why I don't buy AIO liquid coolers as they are all inherently noisy.

Your problem is either the pump noise (which you have to live with) or HDD resonance.

Could be the PSU fan but easiest way to figure it out is open the side of the case and put your ear close to different components. You can turn off all the fans that you have control of, including CPU fans. Then you'll just have the pump noise, PSU fan noise and HDD noise. Some boards also have a sort of coil whine when going into low CPU power states, sounds like electricity over a loose connection.

 

[mrklaw]

This is why I don't buy AIO liquid coolers as they are all inherently noisy.

Your problem is either the pump noise (which you have to live with) or HDD resonance.

Could be the PSU fan but easiest way to figure it out is open the side of the case and put your ear close to different components. You can turn off all the fans that you have control of, including CPU fans. Then you'll just have the pump noise, PSU fan noise and HDD noise. Some boards also have a sort of coil whine when going into low CPU power states, sounds like electricity over a loose connection.

I don't have the h60 anymore - I got rid and moved to air partly because I thought it was noisy. Turned out it was innocent. Almost certainly the PSU as I've turned the other fans off or way down.

Is it fixable, or am I looking at a replacement? Especially annoying as I literally just did all the cabling

 

[Raxanas]

Thoughts on this?

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/xTmwr7

Looking to have NCIX build it. Is there anything I'm missing with this or specific instructions that I need to tell NCIX?

Can you afford to spend more?Whats the max budget? I suggest waiting for at least 1070 .Also i got that case in my 2nd pc and it does not allow the 212 evo because it barely touches the side window.Also If u dont need dvd/br get a nzxt s340. Also maybe change the 212 evo to the new model 212X or Cryorig H7 because the 212 it barely fits and maybe get a bit bigger PSU just to be safe, not like you will need it like this one http://pcpartpicker.com/product/N6X2FT/evga-power-supply-220gs0550v1

 

[LilJoka]

I don't have the h60 anymore - I got rid and moved to air partly because I thought it was noisy. Turned out it was innocent. Almost certainly the PSU as I've turned the other fans off or way down.

Is it fixable, or am I looking at a replacement? Especially annoying as I literally just did all the cabling

It's probably replaceable but would likely void the warranty. RMA of different PSU would be the only real solution. Depends on the noise.

 

[Dr.Horrible]

Can you afford to spend more?Whats the max budget? I suggest waiting for at least 1070 .Also i got that case in my 2nd pc and it does not allow the 212 evo because it barely touches the side window.Also If u dont need dvd/br get a nzxt s340. Also maybe change the 212 evo to the new model 212X or Cryorig H7 because the 212 it barely fits and maybe get a bit bigger PSU just to be safe, not like you will need it like this one http://pcpartpicker.com/product/N6X2FT/evga-power-supply-220gs0550v1

Fist of all, thanks for the input/insight.

I could afford to spend more, but don't have a desire to do so. The NCIX cart is at $1,500 after shipping and the build, which is already over what I intended to spend. I don't even have a monitor yet.

My desire is to have a moderately capable gaming PC, with some extra performance for future demands. I'll also use it for photo editing. I expect I'm well over what my actual use will require, but am okay with that as I want some cushion.

 

[RamaTheVoice]

I'm back!

As promised, here's a couple pics, front and back, with everything installed. The only thing I hadn't connected when I took them were the SATA cables.

I also fixed my noise problem! Turns out that the fans were being... overzealous, let's say. Gigabyte motherboards don't play nice with Speedfan as it turns out, but their own fan profile utility works alright after some tweaking, so I'm using that. Using Intel Burn Test I've come to the conclusion that the Nepton 140XL's fans only need to spin at about 30% to keep CPU temperature under 60°C under full load (still at stock clocks for now, want to break in the system before I try an OC), so I've set up the fan curve accordingly. There's still a slight hum, which may be due to the WC pump, or to one of my hard drives which CrystalDiskInfo says is not in the best shape. I can still hear my graphics card under load though, that thing is loud as hell (reference design 980, maybe not the best idea). But other than that I'm quite happy with how it all turned out.

Weirdly though, if I've got my external USB 3.0 hard drive and USB 2.0 hub (with only my Xbox 360 Gamepad plugged into it), the MB won't recognize my USB keyboard & mouse until Windows boot, so I have to unplug everything if I want to access the BIOS. I've turned legacy USB support on, so that's not the problem, but I'm kind of stumped now.

Thanks for all the advice, PCGAF!

E: Once I decide to overclock for real, I might swap the fans on the Nepton. I'm leaning towards a couple of Fractal GP-14s, the same model that came with the case. They're super silent and have a max airflow rating of 68.4 cfm each, meaning two of them should be enough to handle the Nepton (which according to Cooler Master's website has a max airflow of about 120cfm). Any suggestions from those of you who have experience switching the fans on coolers?

 

[MitzTapuzim]

Hi GAF, I hope you guys can help me out here:
I want to buy a mechanical keyboard for a long time and I just dont know which switch to choose (and in my limited country I dont have the option to try them before buying)..

Brown sound like an all around good switch but I dont know how good it will be for gaming,
I plan to use the keyboard mainly for gaming,
But also for typing student works and such..

Res sounds good for gaming,however,I read that the chance of accidentally hitting diffrent key during typing is cery high due to sensitive nature of the switch itself.
Then there's the mx speed switch,which to my understanding is like red but even more sensitive.

Help me out here GAF (I plan to buy the k70 rgb btw)
Thanks

 

[Nohar]

[...]

[...]

Thank you very much for your input/advices!

For PC parts purchases in France we have materiel.net and also grosbill.com (actually, I didn't know amazon was into that market too). That being said, it has been ages since I bought PC parts, and I don't really know which one has the best prices. Time for me to make some comparison I guess.

High settings are fine for me, although if I can have Ultra and keep good FPS, I can consider spending the extra money.

Regarding the GPU: NVIDIA or AMD?

Finally, any advices regarding the motherboard, or pretty much any new motherboard will do the trick?

 

[Raxanas]

Hi GAF, I hope you guys can help me out here:
I want to buy a mechanical keyboard for a long time and I just dont know which switch to choose (and in my limited country I dont have the option to try them before buying)..

Brown sound like an all around good switch but I dont know how good it will be for gaming,
I plan to use the keyboard mainly for gaming,
But also for typing student works and such..

Res sounds good for gaming,however,I read that the chance of accidentally hitting diffrent key during typing is cery high due to sensitive nature of the switch itself.
Then there's the mx speed switch,which to my understanding is like red but even more sensitive.

Help me out here GAF (I plan to buy the k70 rgb btw)
Thanks

U definately seem u want the brown ones .Since they are the middle ground between red and blue....I have typed on all of them and felt brown is good for gaming and typing.Also why buy that corsair overpriced shit? Get this http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&sku=120563&vpn=DKSH1508ST-BUSADAAT1&manufacture=Ducky and u wont regret it

 

[RamaTheVoice]

Thank you very much for your input/advices!

For PC parts purchases in France we have materiel.net and also grosbill.com (actually, I didn't know amazon was into that market too). That being said, it has been ages since I bought PC parts, and I don't really know which one has the best prices. Time for me to make some comparison I guess.

High settings are fine for me, although if I can have Ultra and keep good FPS, I can consider spending the extra money.

Regarding the GPU: NVIDIA or AMD?

Finally, any advices regarding the motherboard, or pretty much any new motherboard will do the trick?

Hey there fellow French GAFer!

For best prices I'd go with Topachat or RueDuCommerce, even though Grosbill sometimes have some good prices (bought all the parts for my new build at Grosbill apart from the cooler, which I got from Topachat for 25€ less than it retails on Amazon). LDLC is also worth a look, it's not the cheapest but their after-sales service has a good rep, as has Materiel.net's. Topachat's isn't too great though, so be careful.

You can do some price-checking here: http://www.rue-montgallet.com/

 

[AndyMoogle]

Thank you very much for your input/advices!

For PC parts purchases in France we have materiel.net and also grosbill.com (actually, I didn't know amazon was into that market too). That being said, it has been ages since I bought PC parts, and I don't really know which one has the best prices. Time for me to make some comparison I guess.

High settings are fine for me, although if I can have Ultra and keep good FPS, I can consider spending the extra money.

Regarding the GPU: NVIDIA or AMD?

Finally, any advices regarding the motherboard, or pretty much any new motherboard will do the trick?

When it comes to the GPU I think that you should definitely wait until we see how the RX480 perform in games. We should get extensive benchmarks within 2-3 weeks.

 

[Nohar]

When it comes to the GPU I think that you should definitely wait until we see how the RX480 perform in games. We should get extensive benchmarks within 2-3 weeks.

I'll wait then. I'm in no hurry after all. I just read about this GPU, and indeed it does sound like a good deal (if it performs as well as GTX 960/970 for 199$, it becomes very interesting).

 

[AndyMoogle]

I'll wait then. I'm in no hurry after all. I just read about this GPU, and indeed it does sound like a good deal (if it performs as well as GTX 960/970 for 199$, it becomes very interesting).

It should be between 970 and 980 at least.

 

[Nohar]

That being said: will the AMD drivers be updated quickly/regularly enough? A friend told me that he had quite a few problems with out of date drivers with his AMD card.

Anyhow, I'll keep my eyes on those cards. At the very least we should see some price drop for some cards if the RX480 is as good as advertized.

Hey there fellow French GAFer!

For best prices I'd go with Topachat or RueDuCommerce, even though Grosbill sometimes have some good prices (bought all the parts for my new build at Grosbill apart from the cooler, which I got from Topachat for 25€ less than it retails on Amazon). LDLC is also worth a look, it's not the cheapest but their after-sales service has a good rep, as has Materiel.net's. Topachat's isn't too great though, so be careful.

You can do some price-checking here: http://www.rue-montgallet.com/

Hey fellow French GAFer!²

Thank you very much for your advices and your price-checking site. Very useful!

 

[Yawnny]

Are all software GPU overclocking programs basically the same in terms of the job their designed to do (overclock the GPU)?

I've had my 980ti sitting here at stock since I bought it, and now that I'm gaming in 4K I would like to squeak a little more FPS out of the card via overclocking.

I downloaded the MSI Afterburner utility, which looks quite easy to use. Is there something better/different that I should be using?