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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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R

Ricerocket

Member
Erekiddo said:
Another weird issue of mine I've encountered.



I have a Sound Blaster ZX installed into a budget PC I just built, but I liked the audio control knob so much that I like to move it between PCs when I'm switching between the two.

My problem is, on one of my PCs, the audio loudless is much louder if I hook this thing up to the back rather than the front. I'd prefer the front for ease, but the difference is drastic.

Any idea what would cause this to occur?
Click to expand...

That's an amp problem. Is the PC with the fronts low volume issue connected to the board? It's the mobo lacking amp output to the front.

Most front port audio is trash sadly. :(
 
N

Nostremitus

Member
Erekiddo said:
Another weird issue of mine I've encountered.



I have a Sound Blaster ZX installed into a budget PC I just built, but I liked the audio control knob so much that I like to move it between PCs when I'm switching between the two.

My problem is, on one of my PCs, the audio loudless is much louder if I hook this thing up to the back rather than the front. I'd prefer the front for ease, but the difference is drastic.

Any idea what would cause this to occur?
Click to expand...
The back connects directly, the front connects through whatever wires your PC case uses, then to your motherboard.

Better to just plug it in directly.
 
O

opticalmace

Member
ndawgdrake said:
Wondering if PCGAF can diagnose an issue.

My PC's been restarting randomly. All kinds of scenarios: gaming, YouTube, or even when it's just idle.

I've got a 2500k at 4.5ghz at 1.285vcore (been oced for a year without issue) and a oced 970 with no voltage added and 4x4gb ddr3 with xmp set at 1600mhz.

Generally the audio will stutter for a split second and the computer will restart as if someone hit the reset button.

I suspect it's either my ram or psu going bad.

I recently tried to oc my ram and pumped 1.65 volts into it but it wasn't stable and set it back to 1600 mhz (default)

My psu is an antec tp-750 which I purchased 5 years ago.

Any thoughts, GAF?
Click to expand...
First thought would be PSU. But, return your CPU and GPU to stock clocks/vcore, and test your memory with memtest86 (can also try removing some sticks).

Do you have another PSU you could try using?
 
E

Erekiddo

Member
Nostremitus said:
The back connects directly, the front connects through whatever wires your PC case uses, then to your motherboard.
Click to expand...

Correct. The front panel headphone/microphone jack is connected to my motherboard via wire onto the matching pins.

Bummer. Guess I'll leave it hooked up to the back.
 
S

squadr0n

Member
So ive got an old pc that I thought was dual boot, Win 7 and 8 but apparently it also has Win 10. IS there an easy way to remove the partitions and only have it boot Win 7 or 8?

Im trying to set it up for a family member to use with a clean start. Want to reformat and just have one OS.
 
O

opticalmace

Member
squadr0n said:
So ive got an old pc that I thought was dual boot, Win 7 and 8 but apparently it also has Win 10. IS there an easy way to remove the partitions and only have it boot Win 7 or 8?

Im trying to set it up for a family member to use with a clean start. Want to reformat and just have one OS.
Click to expand...

So it has Win 7, 8, and 10 on it? Over how many hard drives?

I would just wipe whatever drive they want to use for the OS (after backing up files of course) and then reinstall Win 10.
 
Celcius

Celcius

°Temp. member
Ugh, my new ram was supposed to be delivered today and fedex just told me that newegg hasn't even shipped it yet. I paid for expedited shipping :(
Time to talk to customer support I guess...
 
finalflame

finalflame

Banned
grosvenor_92 said:
No not really just looking in terms of future proofing my pc. I'm sure a 750 or 850 would be plenty enough
Click to expand...

Component power usage is going down, not up. Feel free to get 1000W, but only if you have future plans of having a tri or quad SLi setup. Which are terrible and nVidia is winding down support on.
 
M

Mystic654

Member
4k Gaming System for the Living Room - Need some Input

I'm trying to head into 4k Gaming, I'm a little stuck with what to get to achieve 4k with Ultra settings and keep a steady framerate. I need a bit help picking out some parts.

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case or Corsair Carbide Series Air 240 (???)
PSU: Evga 750w
GPU: ??? (Maybe a 1080 or 980Ti) or SLI 1080 (Rather not go SLI)?
HDD: 1TB SSD (For OS and Games) + 4TB (Capable of handling 4k Recording)
Ram: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory

Note 1: For the second harddrive I need something that will keep up with Shadowplay at max bitrate with 4k resolution.

Note 2: I'm using a Samsung SUHD 4k TV, I would like to run games at Ultra setting with a decent Framerate(Above 30 fps). The GPU would need to support HDMI 2.0.

Note 3: I'm not looking to spend allot (I know 4k Gaming will require a bit of money compared to 1080p gaming). I would like to keep it down as much as possible.

Final Note: Any suggestions is welcome, Is their some a part I should get instead of what I listed?
 
K

kuYuri

Member
Mystic654 said:
4k Gaming System for the Living Room - Need some Input

I'm trying to head into 4k Gaming, I'm a little stuck with what to get to achieve 4k with Ultra settings and keep a steady framerate. I need a bit help picking out some parts.

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case or Corsair Carbide Series Air 240 (???)
PSU: Evga 750w
GPU: ??? (Maybe a 1080 or 980Ti) or SLI 1080 (Rather not go SLI)?
HDD: 1TB SSD (For OS and Games) + 4TB (Capable of handling 4k Recording)
Ram: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory

Note 1: For the second harddrive I need something that will keep up with Shadowplay at max bitrate with 4k resolution.

Note 2: I'm using a Samsung SUHD 4k TV, I would like to run games at Ultra setting with a decent Framerate(Above 30 fps). The GPU would need to support HDMI 2.0.

Note 3: I'm not looking to spend allot (I know 4k Gaming will require a bit of money compared to 1080p gaming). I would like to keep it down as much as possible.

Final Note: Any suggestions is welcome, Is their some a part I should get instead of what I listed?
Click to expand...

Looks pretty good to me. Definitely go GTX 1080 and avoid SLI to keep costs down. All the latest GPUs support HDMI 2.0 by default, so don't worry about that.

Also, you can go with 2x 8GB sticks since Skylake mobo's have dual channel RAM setup. Also, consider going 3200mhz for the RAM as there is some evidence faster RAM gives nice boost to FPS in some games.
 
E

EdLin

Neo Member
I got the G900 wireless gaming mouse mentioned on the first page of the thread in comments. It's very good, and I also have a G910 mechanical keyboard. These are both excellent products, but then I think about how they're over $300 combined ($149 for the mouse, and a bit more for the keyboard) and I'm not sure if they're worth it... :/

I am glad to not have to deal with latency from my prior cheap wireless mouse, and am glad to have a mechanical keyboard though. :) There really should be more good wireless gaming mice options. There's at least two others from Logitech, but neither of them seemed nearly as good as the G900.
 
A

AkumaNiko

Member
I have a r9 390x and want to upgrade. I am helping a friend buy a 980ti from here and i was planning on getting a 1070. However, im starting to think that a 1070 might not be worth the extra $ for 5% better performance than the 980ti. should i get the 1070 for save the money and get the 980ti
 
E

e90Mark

Member
EdLin said:
I got the G900 wireless gaming mouse mentioned on the first page of the thread in comments. It's very good, and I also have a G910 mechanical keyboard. These are both excellent products, but then I think about how they're over $300 combined ($149 for the mouse, and a bit more for the keyboard) and I'm not sure if they're worth it... :/

I am glad to not have to deal with latency from my prior cheap wireless mouse, and am glad to have a mechanical keyboard though. :) There really should be more good wireless gaming mice options. There's at least two others from Logitech, but neither of them seemed nearly as good as the G900.
Click to expand...

There aren't that many good wireless gaming mice, and the G900 is probably the best. There would be a lot more choices for less money that would be similar if you could go wired.

I would say the G910 is not worth the money, unless you really like it/want the Logitech software. There's a bunch of other keyboards to choose from with real Cherry switches. Not sure how Romer-G is.
 
O

opticalmace

Member
AkumaNiko said:
I have a r9 390x and want to upgrade. I am helping a friend buy a 980ti from here and i was planning on getting a 1070. However, im starting to think that a 1070 might not be worth the extra $ for 5% better performance than the 980ti. should i get the 1070 for save the money and get the 980ti
Click to expand...

How much will you spend on the 980 Ti? How much on the 1070? Any interest in VR?
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Erekiddo said:
Another weird issue of mine I've encountered.



I have a Sound Blaster ZX installed into a budget PC I just built, but I liked the audio control knob so much that I like to move it between PCs when I'm switching between the two.

My problem is, on one of my PCs, the audio loudless is much louder if I hook this thing up to the back rather than the front. I'd prefer the front for ease, but the difference is drastic.

Any idea what would cause this to occur?
Click to expand...
Front ports are usually trash, shielded poorly if at all, and can be worse.

Always use the rear port for audio and mic.
 
S

SRG01

Member
Any ideas on how to remove my graphics card? I have a H97M-g43 and it has a double latch on the first PCI-E port. I can't seem to access the latch since it's underneath my 960.

600.png
Click to expand...

Thanks :)
 
W

widgetraf

Member
widgetraf said:
Does anyone have suggestions on a ~$1k-ish SFF build? Would it be possible to build around a 1070 with this budget?
Click to expand...

Ok so to be more specific here

Budget $1.0-1.2k SFF build

Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light - Moderate Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
Will you be overclocking?: No
 
OFFIS

OFFIS

Member
SRG01 said:
Any ideas on how to remove my graphics card? I have a H97M-g43 and it has a double latch on the first PCI-E port. I can't seem to access the latch since it's underneath my 960.



Thanks :)
Click to expand...

Just use some force and rip it out...
i74JdU8.gif

Lol, but seriously don't do that. That looks like push to open latch and you should be able to reach and push it in with a index finger from between the gpu and cpu.
 
L

LilJoka

Member
SRG01 said:
Any ideas on how to remove my graphics card? I have a H97M-g43 and it has a double latch on the first PCI-E port. I can't seem to access the latch since it's underneath my 960.



Thanks :)
Click to expand...

Use a screw driver to push it. Be careful though not to hit the motherboard.
 
G

Ganzor

Member
Just got my first 144hz Monitor yesterday, the Asus mg248q. I got a problem with it though :( when i enable Freesync on it i experience screen rippeling/flickering :( it Happens in some games and sometimes on the desktop as well. I dont know if this is a driver problem or hardware :( i am on the newest beta driver and before that i was on the 2nd newest. Freesync was one of the main reasons to get a new monitor :(

My pc specs are:

Core i7 4790k at stock
R9 290 at stock
Asus Maximus VI Gene
Corsair AX850
 
R

RamaTheVoice

Member
Hey everyone!

Of course, with a new PC and a new install come new problems, but this seems to be an old one!

After waking from sleep, Windows 10 fails to detect my USB3 hard drive. When this happens I need to unplug it and plug it back in again, as even a reboot while leaving the drive plugged in causes it to still not be recognized. It's not in the disk management tool, and the USB mass storage driver is gone from the device manager.

I know I had this problem on my previous build and managed to solve it somehow, but none of the troubleshooting steps I've found works (integrated windows troubleshooting tool, disabling USB selective suspend, telling Windows to not let hard drives sleep, registry hacks...). I'm starting to think there may be a BIOS config problem. I've enabled Legacy USB support, but the drive doesn't show up under the list of USB storage devices in BIOS. xHCI hand-off is also disabled.

Mobo is a Gigabyte z170XP-SLI. Anyone have any experience with this kind of issue? I've resorted to not letting the computer go to sleep until I've solved the problem.

Edit. in other USB weirdness, before I implemented the registry hack detailed in this video, ALL of my USB devices would be disconnected at once on a regular basis, and would then be re-recognized, except for the USB3 drive. Also, if I left my USB external drive plugged in, none of my USB devices would be recognized before Windows boot, preventing me from using my USB keyboard to access the BIOS. If I unplug the drive before booting, everything is recognized in POST and I can access the BIOS.

Help!
 
GlamFM

GlamFM

Banned
Another PC noob question.

I can get the sound to come out of my VIVE or the audio jack of my PC, but not both at the same time.

What am I doing wrong?
 
J

JonCha

Member
So I'm reading an article that's estimating that the price of partner 1070 cards, here in the UK, will be around £340 vs the RRP of £399 for the Founders Edition. Both of these prices seem incredibly good value. However, I think I read some posts earlier here that suggested the on-sale price will actually be higher?
 
D

derFeef

Member
GlamFM said:
Another PC noob question.

I can get the sound to come out of my VIVE or the audio jack of my PC, but not both at the same time.

What am I doing wrong?
Click to expand...

In the Vive audio settings (in the VR menu) you can set "Mirror audio to HTC Vive" or similar.
 
L

LordAlu

Member
JonCha said:
So I'm reading an article that's estimating that the price of partner 1070 cards, here in the UK, will be around £340 vs the RRP of £399 for the Founders Edition. Both of these prices seem incredibly good value. However, I think I read some posts earlier here that suggested the on-sale price will actually be higher?
Click to expand...
Judging by expected stock, I would not expect any model of 1070 to be less than £400.
 
Kikorin

Kikorin

Member
Hi all, yesterday I asked for a new pc, today I tried to make a config using your advices and the OP info. This is what I did, but I really have no idea if it can be good for what I need (video editing, premiere, after effect and gaming too). Also, I've seen that there are a lot of brand for the same GPU (GTX 1080), what is the difference from one to other?

Anyway, this is what I did, thanks at who will help me :)

PC_Prova.jpg
 
GlamFM

GlamFM

Banned
Kikorin said:
Hi all, yesterday I asked for a new pc, today I tried to make a config using your advices and the OP info. This is what I did, but I really have no idea if it can be good for what I need (video editing, premiere, after effect and gaming too). Also, I've seen that there are a lot of brand for the same GPU (GTX 1080), what is the difference from one to other?

Anyway, this is what I did, thanks at who will help me :)

PC_Prova.jpg
Click to expand...


As long as it´s the founders edition (FE) there is no difference.
 
L

LordAlu

Member
Kikorin said:
Hi all, yesterday I asked for a new pc, today I tried to make a config using your advices and the OP info. This is what I did, but I really have no idea if it can be good for what I need (video editing, premiere, after effect and gaming too). Also, I've seen that there are a lot of brand for the same GPU (GTX 1080), what is the difference from one to other?

Anyway, this is what I did, thanks at who will help me :)

PC_Prova.jpg
Click to expand...
There's no difference between the Founders Edition GTX 1080 cards, so don't worry about that.

Things I would recommend changing:
  • You'd want a full-size DVD drive rather than a slim one.
  • Your cooler won't fit - it has a height of 163mm, but the case only supports up to 150mm. You'll either need to change the cooler or change the case.
  • The X99 chipset performs best with quad-channel memory, so you'd want to change your RAM from 2x 8GB to 4x 4GB.
  • The SSD kit doesn't need to have the extra stuff with it (i.e. bracket) so you can go for the basic one to save a bit more money.
 
D

DBT85

Member
Just pulled the trigger on a custom hardline EK loop and a m.2 SM951 512 NVMe.

Need to order another rad and 8 more fittings as OCUK have run out and one thing I've learned with them is to place separate orders if stuff is out of stock (free shipping anyway).

Looking forward to the build!
 
S

Sothis Krieg

Member
I'll receive my Oculus Rift in July and i need some help to decide what to do.

Currently i'm running a I7 2600k@4.5 Ghz with 8GB DDR3 and a GTX 770. On one hand i want to buy a config that can run most of the rift games but in the other hand i want to wait to see VEGA and what AMD has in stock with Zen.

So i was thinking of buying an intermediate GPU like the AMD 480 and wait for the bigger GPU from Nvidia and AMD and the Zen release before updating my build completely.

Don't know if it is a good idea. Budget is $1500 and i need Motherboard + CPU + 16GB and GPU. So my goal is rift "gaming" first and then 1440p@144hz
 
Kikorin

Kikorin

Member
LordAlu said:
There's no difference between the Founders Edition GTX 1080 cards, so don't worry about that.

Things I would recommend changing:
  • You'd want a full-size DVD drive rather than a slim one.
  • Your cooler won't fit - it has a height of 163mm, but the case only supports up to 150mm. You'll either need to change the cooler or change the case.
  • The X99 chipset performs best with quad-channel memory, so you'd want to change your RAM from 2x 8GB to 4x 4GB.
  • The SSD kit doesn't need to have the extra stuff with it (i.e. bracket) so you can go for the basic one to save a bit more money.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Ram are 2x8GB and I think to buy 2, so in total this would be 4x8GB if I've understand right what I'm going to buy XD

There are some cooler that fit that are reccomended?
 
B

Blues1990

Member
I was wondering if someone can recommend me a solid gaming laptop at a reasonable price (Canadian), as I want to play Overwatch and Diablo III when I visit my friend in Kelowna later this month.
 
V

velociraptor

Junior Member
My PC won't turn on at all. I was downloading 3D Mark and then went to click to download PC Mark as well. All of a sudden, PC shuts off.

I tried pressing the power button, nothing is happening. I opened the PC case and I see the green MOBO light is on. What could be the problem?

Is the PSU busted? Mobo failure? Dead CPU?

Just to note I had OC my PC earlier today and it was at 4.4 Ghz. I ran Prime95 and it did fine. Have a i5 2500k, Noctua D14 cooler, Asus P8P67 Pro
 
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