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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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OkayRene

Member
You put them back in your Synology. The disk formatting and RAID implementations that Synology, QNAP, and pretty much any other NAS manufacturer use aren't compatible with Windows PCs, so you can't just plug them and read the data off them.

Dammit.

Thanks for the quick response.
 

Grief.exe

Member
Hey guys, me again.

Now that I have a proper PC, I decided to remove my 2 HDDs out of my Synology DS212 and installed them into my new PC. However, Windows doesn't seem to want to give me access to my drives. I see them in Disk Management. But I'm not sure how to get access to my files?

You can ultimately use them in Windows, but you should remove the files first, then format them when in disk management.
 

Cptkrush

Member
I currently have a monoprice 27" 1440 IPS monitor, and am planning on picking up a 1070 when they are readily available. If I get a new one with gsync and 144hz should I just go down to a 24" 1080 monitor? they're pretty cheap, and the 27" will still be around for getting work done on.
 

Josh5890

Member
I apologize if this is a stupid question. :) I am getting a 250GB SSD tomorrow. My plan is to install in the PC, then I want to upgrade my PC from Windows 7 to Windows 10. My plan is to use the SSD exclusively and get rid of the 500 GB HDD that I currently have. If I do a clean install of Windows via the free upgrade will I be able to do it on the SSD if all of the files are on the HDD?

Also for the record I already have all of the documents saved onto a flash drive that I need to keep.

Thanks in advance as always folks!
 

JMTHEFOX

Member
Hey guys, I got all of the parts and I am almost finished with installing the power supply. However I am having problems setting up the cables.

V9unLj0.jpg
 
Looking for some help picking out a mother board, there is three I'm current'y looking at.

Gigabyte G1

ASUS Z170-A

MSI Z170A Gaming M5

Personally I'm leaning towards the Gigabyte board.

Here is the rest of the build.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($338.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($153.95 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $852.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 01:29 EDT-0400

For the GPU I'm gonna use my 970 for a while and then pick up an 1070 down the line.
 

linkent

Member
At the end of my journey to get a monitor.
Made up my mind on Acer Predator X34.(it has same price as Asus PG278Q)
But reading around, seems like there are many quality issue for it.

Do the later production still has these problems?

It has OKish refund policy, but i will need to travel for 1hour to do it.
 

Bad_Boy

time to take my meds
So i have this cat7 cable i can't seem to get working via my usb3.0 ethernet adapter. cat5 works in the adapter or port no problem.

the cat7 works if i plug it into my 10/100 ethernet port, but of course the speeds suck and max at 100Mbps.

any ideas?
 

r4z4

Member
What are my best options for an itx motherboard? Will be using a 6600k and 1070 and looking to over clock in a Fractal Define Nano. Thanks.
 

bgbball31

Member
Must have posted this in the wrong thread, whoops. Sorry, GAF!

Anyways, from the looks of my computer screen currently, my graphics card is dead or dying. I have been getting a bunch of BSOD's recently and because it always said memory problems, I assumed it was the RAM. However, memory tests always came back fine, so I figured it had to be something else.

Today, I got a BSOD and white horizontal lines all across my screen. Looked it up and sure enough that is a sign that the VRAM in my old GTX 580 card is finally going. Oh, the joys of computers. So anyways, looks like my hand is forced early into getting a new card. I had planned on waiting till at least the 1080Ti, or maybe till HBM2 cards came out, but now I'm not sure.

I know it is always a pratfall to wait for the "next big thing," but I'd rather not feel terrible if HBM2 is a massive improvement over GDDRX5. So, do I buy a cheaper GFX card to hold me over, or go full bore with the GTX 1080 and ride with it a while?
 

JMTHEFOX

Member
Well, I'm fucked.

While I was trying to find why the new computer keeps shutting down when I plug in the tax for the PSU, not only did one of the sata cables broke but also the pins of the western digital blue have been bent!


My lamp fan stopped working which means I have now light. What should I do?
 

Sendou

Member
So I have a copy of Windows 7 on my old PC. When I get my new PC can I just straight up put Windows 10 on a USB stick and activate it using the serial code of Windows 7? Or do I have to first install Windows 7 and the upgrade it.
 
Do I need to replace my PSU? The past 3 weeks or so it's been getting an on an off buzzing/coil crackling sound. Not always present but its random. I think it's coming from my PSU as it's more prevelant from that side of the computer. It's an EVGA 600w 80+ bronze. No signs of anything cutting out or anything affecting performance etc. Is it just annoying coil whine?
 

Mohasus

Member
Ugh, so I think I found out what was wrong with my stress tests. Not my OC but my RAM.

Firefox has been crashing for a while but only with twitch open, so I thought it was a flash player glitch or something.
But now I've been getting BSODs even at stock speeds. And after 6 minutes of memtest, more than a thousand errors occurred.

So I have a copy of Windows 7 on my old PC. When I get my new PC can I just straight up put Windows 10 on a USB stick and activate it using the serial code of Windows 7? Or do I have to first install Windows 7 and the upgrade it.

You can go directly to 10.
 

ISee

Member
Guys, what medium-tier CPU upgrade would you suggest for a 3570 nonk? I think it's causing the stuttering when playing high-profile VIVE games

If you don't want to exchange your mobo the 3770/3770k (buy the k only if you want to OC) is the only option you have left. If you want to get something better/newer you'll need to get at least a new mobo (i5/7 4xxxx) or a new mobo and new ram (i5/7 6xxx).

So I have a copy of Windows 7 on my old PC. When I get my new PC can I just straight up put Windows 10 on a USB stick and activate it using the serial code of Windows 7? Or do I have to first install Windows 7 and the upgrade it.

You can use your windows 7 key to register a new windows 10 copy only if you previously upgraded from win 7 to win 10.


Do I need to replace my PSU? The past 3 weeks or so it's been getting an on an off buzzing/coil crackling sound. Not always present but its random. I think it's coming from my PSU as it's more prevelant from that side of the computer. It's an EVGA 600w 80+ bronze. No signs of anything cutting out or anything affecting performance etc. Is it just annoying coil whine?

Open your case and make sure it's the PSU first and clean out all fans while you're at it. Often enough people mistake coilwhine with faulty fan noise.
Normally coilwhine isn't dangerous but if it's too annoying, sure get a new one.
 

Majine

Banned
For those of you with a 4k monitor, which model do you have and how do you like it?

Acer 28" Predator XB280HK

+ Dat resolution
+ G-Sync is awesome

- Color is shifting slightly, and the monitor is so large that you do notice from one side to the other (maybe I'm sitting too closely)
- Some bleeding
- Design is pretty bland, with glossy bezels which is a little distracting.
 
If you don't want to exchange your mobo the 3770/3770k (buy the k only if you want to OC) is the only option you have left. If you want to get something better/newer you'll need to get at least a new mobo (i5/7 4xxxx) or a new mobo and new ram (i5/7 6xxx).



You can use your windows 7 key to register a new windows 10 copy only if you previously upgraded from win 7 to win 10.




Open your case and make sure it's the PSU first and clean out all fans while you're at it. Often enough people mistake coilwhine with faulty fan noise.
Normally coilwhine isn't dangerous but if it's too annoying, sure get a new one.

Cleaned out my casefans and GPU fan. I can hear it if I put my ear up to it from the outside of the case. It's like a tingly metal noise. I thought at first it was the sleevings of the cables hitting off something since they have a metalic mesh around them but it sounds like the psu. I loaded up Metro LL and it got more consistent with a light buzzing noise that I could only hear when really close to the psu. I think I have a year warranty with Amazon so should I try get a refund off them and get a better PSU?
 

FFMafia

Member
I'm willing to wait for the 6700k on a nice sale. It's at 314.99 at newegg (u.s.) does it at potential for bigger savings down the road?
 
You can go directly to 10.

You can use your windows 7 key to register a new windows 10 copy only if you previously upgraded from win 7 to win 10.

Wait a minute, I'm not sure I'm getting this right.

I have an OEM version of Windows 7 on my current PC (haven't upgraded to 10). I plan to build a new PC from scratch. Is there any way I can install 10 for free on my new PC and if yes is there an idiot-proof guide somewhere?


Further research
has only confused me even more...
 

kennah

Member
Wait a minute, I'm not sure I'm getting this right.

I have an OEM version of Windows 7 on my current PC (haven't upgraded to 10). I plan to build a new PC from scratch. Is there any way I can install 10 for free on my new PC and if yes is there an idiot-proof guide somewhere?


Further research
has only confused me even more...

You could go directly to 10 (It was changed from what the other poster said about upgrades), but you can't (as per the terms of the software license) run 7 on one PC and 10 on another.
 

Nictel

Member
Well, I'm fucked.

While I was trying to find why the new computer keeps shutting down when I plug in the tax for the PSU, not only did one of the sata cables broke but also the pins of the western digital blue have been bent!

My lamp fan stopped working which means I have now light. What should I do?

I have had that before, bent pins (in my case it was my monitor VGA connector)
Get one of these small pliers and carefully bent it straight again.
 

ISee

Member
Cleaned out my casefans and GPU fan. I can hear it if I put my ear up to it from the outside of the case. It's like a tingly metal noise. I thought at first it was the sleevings of the cables hitting off something since they have a metalic mesh around them but it sounds like the psu. I loaded up Metro LL and it got more consistent with a light buzzing noise that I could only hear when really close to the psu. I think I have a year warranty with Amazon so should I try get a refund off them and get a better PSU?

Here is an example for coil whine, it can also be louder and more screeching.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq0MAKK688E&feature=youtu.be&t=20s
If you're able to get a new PSU without having to pay for it, sure send it in. But there is no guarantee that a new PSU doesn't have coil whine, no matter what brand or manufacturer you choose (evga is actually considered to be good).
 
Here is an example for coil whine, it can also be louder and more screeching.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq0MAKK688E&feature=youtu.be&t=20s
If you're able to get a new PSU without having to pay for it, sure send it in. But there is no guarantee that a new PSU doesn't have coil whine, no matter what brand or manufacturer you choose (evga is actually considered to be good).

Nah it's not like that. It's more like a tingling metal noise. Not sure what other way to describe it. Also buzzing when under load but not audible unless close to it.

I'm going to try amazon now and see what I can do. If I can get money back i'll send it in and put money towards a gold standard modular one.
 
Nah it's not like that. It's more like a tingling metal noise. Not sure what other way to describe it. Also buzzing when under load but not audible unless close to it.

I'm going to try amazon now and see what I can do. If I can get money back i'll send it in and put money towards a gold standard modular one.
A fan blade tapping a wire?
 
A fan blade tapping a wire?

Nah there are none near any of the fans. I was just talking to Amazon, they will issue me a full refund once I send it back in. Think I will just put money to it and get a 550w G2 PSU. Think they are tier 1 so should be better, only have a 600w bronze evga one atm
 
You could go directly to 10 (It was changed from what the other poster said about upgrades), but you can't (as per the terms of the software license) run 7 on one PC and 10 on another.

I won't use both, only the new one (old parts will be given to friends).

So I could uninstall my 7 key on my current PC, install 7 on the new PC and then upgrade it to 10?

Sorry in advance if I'm being thick...
 

Kikorin

Member
Sorry if I post again, but looks like none seen the prevoius :) I did another config using your advices, hope to have some help again:

uQstINL.jpg


I'm not sure about some things:
- Is the CPU Cooler good enough? I choosed the most rated, but I'm not expert
- Same question about Ram and the Seagate HDD, if they are not good, pls can you tell me what to choose instead?

Thanks!
 

Vaettir

Member
Sorry if I post again, but looks like none seen the prevoius :) I did another config using your advices, hope to have some help again:

uQstINL.jpg


I'm not sure about some things:
- Is the CPU Cooler good enough? I choosed the most rated, but I'm not expert
- Same question about Ram and the Seagate HDD, if they are not good, pls can you tell me what to choose instead?

Thanks!

For a 2011-E build, I'd recommend getting a different cooler. The 6800k is still power hungry for a CPU and demands a better one to keep temps down. If you aren't sure which to get, the Noctua NH-U12S should be fine. If you needed a beefier one, you grab the NH-D15.

I do not recommend that case at all. It's very small and cramp and fitting all those components in there would make your building experience very aggravating. Get a bigger case like the Fractal Define R5 or the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M.
 

wheeplash

Member
If I don't plan on overclocking, would an i5-6500 be better option than an i5-6600k?
I'm building a new PC, and will probably get me a GTX1070/Polaris GPU. No planned overclocking whatsoever and targeting 1080/144hz gaming.

Would I be bottlenecked? Are there any other options?
Thanks!
 

e90Mark

Member
At the end of my journey to get a monitor.
Made up my mind on Acer Predator X34.(it has same price as Asus PG278Q)
But reading around, seems like there are many quality issue for it.

Do the later production still has these problems?

It has OKish refund policy, but i will need to travel for 1hour to do it.
There's a refresh supposed to hit Q4 this year, the X34P, if you can wait.


What are my best options for an itx motherboard? Will be using a 6600k and 1070 and looking to over clock in a Fractal Define Nano. Thanks.
Z170 Stinger maybe?
 

Megabat

Member
Sorry if I post again, but looks like none seen the prevoius :) I did another config using your advices, hope to have some help again:

uQstINL.jpg


I'm not sure about some things:
- Is the CPU Cooler good enough? I choosed the most rated, but I'm not expert
- Same question about Ram and the Seagate HDD, if they are not good, pls can you tell me what to choose instead?

Thanks!

The cooler will be fine at stock temperatures, but you won't have much (if any) headroom for overclocking. You can check Noctua's recommendations here: http://noctua.at/en/tdp-guide

I'm not sure what the exact prices are in Euros, but the U12S should only be a bit more. The D14 would be what I'd go with, but it is still more expensive. Either way, make sure you get one with an LGA2011 mounting bracket.

The only other issues are small. You should usually try to get all your memory in one kit. It is not a huge deal if you are buying two kits at the same time, it just 100% guarantees that they'll operate exactly the same.

Seagate HDD's are generally known as the least reliable. You might want to swap that 3TB drive for a comparable HGST/Hitachi/Toshiba model.

Edit: The D14 SE2011 is actually specially-made for LGA2011. That's the one you would want.
 

Megabat

Member
I'm choosing a CPU for new PC and was considering to get the i5-6600k, but I've read it's not the best option for someone with no plans to overclock and only use a single GPU (that's me). I also just noticed you have to buy an aftermarket cooler .. wtf?

Are there any comparable, maybe cheaper options from Intel? What about AMD? I'm probably getting a GTX1070/Polaris graphics card.
I don't do any heavy editing, mostly media consumption and gaming.

There are! The i5-6500 is a 3.2GHz part for ~$195, depending on wher you find it. It comes with a copper-slugged Intel stock cooler.

It should be about on par with a stock 6600K in games. If you have a Micro Center near you, they are usually cheapest. You should be able to get that CPU and a good Z170 board for about $300. But Amazon or Newegg may not charge sales tax.
 

wheeplash

Member
There are! The i5-6500 is a 3.2GHz part for ~$195, depending on wher you find it. It comes with a copper-slugged Intel stock cooler.

It should be about on par with a stock 6600K in games. If you have a Micro Center near you, they are usually cheapest. You should be able to get that CPU and a good Z170 board for about $300. But Amazon or Newegg may not charge sales tax.

Awesome! I totally missed the i5-6500.
Would it be alright to use it with the stock cooler? I may consider overclocking later down the road but for not for the moment, I don't want to mess with those huge after-market coolers for a while.

What about my GPU choice? Would the i5 cause any kind of bottleneck?
 

Oscar

Member
Guys, so Frys has the 390X 8GB for $219 today.

I currently have a 580 GTX.

Should I jump on this or wait for more drops? Will be playing mostly Overwatch and the new WoW expansion. Might dabble in things like Total War Warhammer.


Link: http://www.frys.com/product/8583069

In store pickup only
 
Guys, so Frys has the 390X 8GB for $219 today.

I currently have a 580 GTX.

Should I jump on this or wait for more drops? Will be playing mostly Overwatch and the new WoW expansion. Might dabble in things like Total War Warhammer.


Link: http://www.frys.com/product/8583069

In store pickup only

319 or 219? Shows the former for me. If the latter I'd consider it. The 480 is supposed to be competitive with the 390 (and come out at $200 for the 4GB card, presumably around $230-$245 for the 8GB card), which may be something to consider.
 

R0ckman

Member
I'm willing to wait for the 6700k on a nice sale. It's at 314.99 at newegg (u.s.) does it at potential for bigger savings down the road?

Thats a good price, I have a microcenter in my town that was selling it for 289. But I think it was 319 with tax.
 

ACE 1991

Member
If a product was bought open box but was basically brand new and unregistered with EVGA, does it still qualify as part of the step up program?
 
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