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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Ok, so I have this Sager notebook with 680m sli + i7 3840QM. It still runs decently for most of games, but it's so damn hot. CPU and GPU both hover around 90C when gaming, and now the summer is coming. Anyone here have any suggestions? I am already running it with back cover removed.
opening up
opening up
heat sinks removed
As safe as possible, I'm a noobie at OC.
Hey guys. Since I ended up buying a new monitor and MSI GTX Gaming X 1080 card I figured it was time to retire my OG NZXT Phantom case and I'm getting the NZXT H440.
Are the MSI Gaming X cards any larger than other cards like EVGA? I can't imagine there would be a spacing issue since it's a mid tower case but I figured I'd check because this card seems massive in images but I haven't seen it compared to any others.
Are the MSI Gaming X cards any larger than other cards like EVGA? I can't imagine there would be a spacing issue since it's a mid tower case but I figured I'd check because this card seems massive in images but I haven't seen it compared to any others.
Shifty Capone1
Member
Thanks to everyone in this thread for the help and recommendations. Running the Witcher 3 at 100FPS 100hz 21:9 G-Sync is incredible. I would recommend the x34 1080 combo to anyone can afford it!
Based on these specs, you're fine.
https://www.nzxt.com/products/h440-white
https://us.msi.com/Graphics-card/GeForce-GTX-1080-GAMING-X-8G.html#hero-specification
There's nothing wrong with the weight of a hyper 212.
There are no plastic clips for mounting a hyper 212, it uses spring loaded screws to secure.
Yeah you just need to offset it on the top of the case, shouldn't be too much work.
Or mount the drives in the 5.25" bays, remove all the HDD cages and install it at the front.
longnosedgoblin
Member
Any recommendations for a sky lake mini itx motherboard? The more reviews I read the more small niggles you read about each one! It's for a i5 6500 so doesn't need to be a z board, reliability is my main requirement.
Asus H170I plus D3 maybe.
Forget about reading reviews for reliability.
Pick the ITX board with the features you want for the price your willing to spend, there's nothing more to it.
selfconfessedcynic
Member
Solid build - similar to what someone said above, if the friend has some time to spare, I'd wait to see how the RX460 or 470 (the supected $100/$150 AMD cards coming up) turn out.
Or he could splurge on an RX 480 later this month if it turns out to be good.
Either way, I'd be reticent about investing in a 950 right now.
If you want longevity I'd go for a 6700k. I did, upgraded from a 3570k and it seemed like there was enough benefit to hyper threading to go for it. Will also help for VR as I need higher framerates for that.
And if you have a decent air cooler on it (hyper 212 is affordable) then IMO no reason not to overclock lightly from the start. I slapped mine on 4.5GHz straight off and it's fine. Might as well get the benefit of that extra performance straight away
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
I was looking at getting an RX 480 when it came out but it seems it wouldn't offer much extra performance over my current R9 290. So now I'm thinking about getting a GTX 1070. This card seems to be able to handle 1440p 60fps easily. I only have a 1080p monitor but if I can downsample games then I'd do that but for the most part I'd be happy to stick with 1080p 60fps and just be able to increase settings. For example, I can manage GTA V at 1080p 60fps but would love to increase some settings for better visuals.
The thing bothering me is that I'm worried the 1070 would be held back by my CPU which is an i5-4590. Could I get away using this CPU or should I really consider getting an unlocked CPU like the 6600/6700K? If so then that would mean building a whole new PC. My Mobo will only support up to Broadwell and can't over clock. Would need a new CPU fan. Also, I would need to buy DDR4 RAM to replace my 16GB DDR3 sticks. And then of course I will need a new Windows 10 licence. At this point I might as well just buy a 1440p monitor. I could reuse my case but I don't like it and if I'm gonna be overclocking I need a better case. I could reuse my SSD and PSU but everything else would be replaced. If I need to do that then I would much rather prefer to wait until 4K 60fps is achievable within my budget before building a new PC. All I really want to do is upgrade my GPU to give me a bit more power until I build a new PC.
The thing bothering me is that I'm worried the 1070 would be held back by my CPU which is an i5-4590. Could I get away using this CPU or should I really consider getting an unlocked CPU like the 6600/6700K? If so then that would mean building a whole new PC. My Mobo will only support up to Broadwell and can't over clock. Would need a new CPU fan. Also, I would need to buy DDR4 RAM to replace my 16GB DDR3 sticks. And then of course I will need a new Windows 10 licence. At this point I might as well just buy a 1440p monitor. I could reuse my case but I don't like it and if I'm gonna be overclocking I need a better case. I could reuse my SSD and PSU but everything else would be replaced. If I need to do that then I would much rather prefer to wait until 4K 60fps is achievable within my budget before building a new PC. All I really want to do is upgrade my GPU to give me a bit more power until I build a new PC.
What motherboard/case? In my bitfenix prodigy ITX I started out with a corsair H60 on my 3570k, but recently switched to a noctua NH-U12S when I upgraded to 6700k. Over clocks to 4.5GHz and stays cool and quiet - I literally can't hear the fans.
CPU should be fine. There is a lot of fretting about earlier generation core i chips recently. There are some benefits to high framerates with more modern chips in some games, but you'll be fine with what you have. If your motherboard supports overclocking, then switching in an i7-47xxk could be an option for a nice bump in performance. But only if the price is right - some older CPUs can stay expensive.
I was helping a friend of mine build his first gaming PC a few weeks ago. He was on the edge of getting a 390, but I managed to convince him to hold off buying a GPU for another few weeks. He was considering both the 1070 and 480.
I saw how insanely fast the 1080 went out of stock last go around. I made damn sure I got a 1070 order in, just in case he wanted it. But, after talking with him, he considered his budget. The 480 just makes a lot more sense for him. So he passed on the 1070.
I ordered the card on Amazon, so it's no big deal to cancel it. But I guess I'm one of the first orders, because my estimated shipping was updated to "Arriving Wednesday". Considering how hard the card is to get right now, I wanted to see if anyone here wants it first. It's an EVGA Founders Edition 1070. I have Prime, so free 2-Day, but I live in California, so 7.5% sales tax. Total ends up at $475.47. I'm not looking to make a profit. I'd only ask for whatever the total ends up being after taxes and such (if I can change the shipping to your address on Amazon. If it can't be changed, then I will ship it myself after it arrives, I'll add the cost of the shipping you chose to the Total.
I have verified Paypal as well.
Anyone interested?
EDIT:I may this post over at r/hardwareswap, where buying from another person is standard practice. Turns out their policy doesn't allow it.
I saw how insanely fast the 1080 went out of stock last go around. I made damn sure I got a 1070 order in, just in case he wanted it. But, after talking with him, he considered his budget. The 480 just makes a lot more sense for him. So he passed on the 1070.
I ordered the card on Amazon, so it's no big deal to cancel it. But I guess I'm one of the first orders, because my estimated shipping was updated to "Arriving Wednesday". Considering how hard the card is to get right now, I wanted to see if anyone here wants it first. It's an EVGA Founders Edition 1070. I have Prime, so free 2-Day, but I live in California, so 7.5% sales tax. Total ends up at $475.47. I'm not looking to make a profit. I'd only ask for whatever the total ends up being after taxes and such (if I can change the shipping to your address on Amazon. If it can't be changed, then I will ship it myself after it arrives, I'll add the cost of the shipping you chose to the Total.
I have verified Paypal as well.
Anyone interested?
EDIT:
longnosedgoblin
Member
Yeah it wasn't really reliability issues in the reviews more like buggy bios, poor placement of connections and stuff like that. The price of boards seem quite close apart from the asrock ones.
Now this is important. With BIOS, it can be hard to say what is buggy and what isnt, usually all the boards will have some sort of issue/s. Usually minor inconveniences however.
In terms of connector placement, youll just have to decide based off your case for what will be the best in terms of cabling.
Stick with Asus/Gigabyte/MSI and AsRock and you shall be fine otherwise.
AsRock tends to have a bit more amateur designed BIOS aesthetics but usually offers similar functionality as the rest of the boards.
Sothis Krieg
Member
So i'm going all in for a new build !
My current build is sandy bridge with a 770 GTX and the following parts that i want to keep :
Case : ANTEC P183
Cooler : Noctua NH-D14
PSU : Antec truepower Quattro 850W.
I want to go for this build :
CPU : I7 6700k
Motherboard : Asus Z170-A
RAM : G.Skill RipJaws 5 Series Gris 16 Go (2x 8 Go) DDR4 3000 MHz CL15
GPU : MSI GeForce GTX 1080 GAMING X 8G
I wonder if all will be ok with my case/cooler and all.
My current build is sandy bridge with a 770 GTX and the following parts that i want to keep :
Case : ANTEC P183
Cooler : Noctua NH-D14
PSU : Antec truepower Quattro 850W.
I want to go for this build :
CPU : I7 6700k
Motherboard : Asus Z170-A
RAM : G.Skill RipJaws 5 Series Gris 16 Go (2x 8 Go) DDR4 3000 MHz CL15
GPU : MSI GeForce GTX 1080 GAMING X 8G
I wonder if all will be ok with my case/cooler and all.
selfconfessedcynic
Member
You'll be fine. Case, Cooler and PSU are all good.
Thanks! Do you mean actually on top? I don't know how to route the water cooling pipes out of the case lol.
I'll look into finding a way to putting the HDDs into the optical drive bay since I'm not using any optical drive.. Hm.
I was reading that it can be installed at the top, would have to be inside the case i would think. But you would need to mod the mounting holes. I think the current holes will not line up in a spot for the rad to fit.
Yes, you can either just ghetto mount the drives in the 5.25" bays or buy adapters.
Ah yeah, that's what I found too. Some Swedish poster on sweclockers just drilled an extra hole to mount the remaining screws. Gonna see if I can ghetto mount my drives in now, haha. Thanks mate.
SpiritSlayer
Member
I've never built a PC before before but I'd like to build and I have some questions. Is it possible to attach both the Creative Sound Blaster Z sound card and a wireless network adapter to the Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI mobo? They both require PCIe x1 ports.
Yup - you can put them in any PCIe slot, including the big x16 ones, and they'll work fine. Even with a dual-slot graphics card in there you'd have three spare slots you could put them in.
SpiritSlayer
Member
Awesome, thanks for the info.
Ideally the friend would save a little more to go for an i5 and maybe a Z170 board, but who knows what their situation is.
selfconfessedcynic
Member
Yup, i5, 16 gigs of RAM and a Z170 IMO. But if we're sticking to $500ish, it'd be similar to that build with an RX 460/70 instead of a 950.
Edit: assuming those new AMD cards turn out to be real.
SmartWaffles
Member
The garbage Nvidia drivers keeps shitting itself even during idle and no fix from Nvidia whatsoever is seriously tilting me towards AMD now.
Not really, I don't think the pre-built HP came with an EVGA card and they are the only ones who offer such a step-up program (for a limited time only as well)
Both brands will have issues with drivers.
Have you simply tried using DDU to clean the drivers then install the previous version?
http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
Yesterday my Zotac GTX 970 (dual fan) started getting really loud as if the fans were on 100%. I checked and noticed that the fan towards the IO was spinning at full speed while the other one is at ~300 RPM. Does anyone know this problem? Sometimes they normalize and spin at the same rate again but that only lasts for a short time. I clean installed the drivers again but I'm not sure if its a software or hardware problem. Any ideas?
Bloodsent
Member
This is what I had to do. Normal "clean installation" from within the Nvidia install wasn't enough. I had all sorts of problems with crashing, pink tink, etc with the latest drivers. Did DDU and rolled back to 368.22, everything is good.
Celcius
°Temp. member
If anyone needs a cheap 16GB set of DDR3, I'm selling a kit in the B/S/T thread: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=206438084#post206438084
No reason not to buy now. Yes, Kaby Lake is coming but you wouldn't be missing anything.
Thanks. That was my initial read of the roadmap but I wanted to double check.
rottendevice
Member
Thank you for the responses!
Thanks. I think the mouse is definitely out of my price range (but it does look nice).
I'm interested in wireless for both. It's for the living room, and I don't want a wire running from the TV to the couch.
I found this on Amazon. It's cheap, but the reviews are good. I might just give it a try.
Thanks. I think the mouse is definitely out of my price range (but it does look nice).
I'm interested in wireless for both. It's for the living room, and I don't want a wire running from the TV to the couch.
I found this on Amazon. It's cheap, but the reviews are good. I might just give it a try.
So my niece spilled sticky sugar drink all over my mom's laptop, it seems to be kaput.
So I decide to kill 2 birds with one stone and just get the parts I needed to upgrade my system, and give her what I had available (2600k, 5870).
Anyway, long story short; I got everything in on Friday, miraculously. I get everything needed in my PC swapped out into her new case, and it's working great, didn't even need to reinstall windows.
I start to work on mine, I get the CPU watercooler all ready to go, and I go put to in the mobo (z170-a), and I notice there's this crack going along the bottom of the mobo. The bottom right corner of the mobo is fucking bent, it's cracked, and the pins for the chassis switches are completely fucked.
And, it's the weekend.
And then I had to swap a whole bunch of shite back in and out so I can have some entertainment for the next 3 days while I wait for a replacement.
Overall, terrible experience.
So I decide to kill 2 birds with one stone and just get the parts I needed to upgrade my system, and give her what I had available (2600k, 5870).
Anyway, long story short; I got everything in on Friday, miraculously. I get everything needed in my PC swapped out into her new case, and it's working great, didn't even need to reinstall windows.
I start to work on mine, I get the CPU watercooler all ready to go, and I go put to in the mobo (z170-a), and I notice there's this crack going along the bottom of the mobo. The bottom right corner of the mobo is fucking bent, it's cracked, and the pins for the chassis switches are completely fucked.
And, it's the weekend.
And then I had to swap a whole bunch of shite back in and out so I can have some entertainment for the next 3 days while I wait for a replacement.
Overall, terrible experience.
opticalmace
Member
Now is an excellent time to buy a 6700k. Kaby Lake got delayed to next year and it's not expected to be much of an improvement anyway.
SmartWaffles
Member
Yes, I tried:
Constant voltage input in Afterburner
Tinkering with Windows Tdr value
Uninstalling with DDU and install anew, both newest version and 362.00
It still keeps crashing randomly and twice in a second even.
RamaTheVoice
Member
Peripheral question over here:
I use a wired Xbox 360 controller which is starting to show some wear & tear. Is it worth upgrading to a wireless Xbox One controller?
I use a wired Xbox 360 controller which is starting to show some wear & tear. Is it worth upgrading to a wireless Xbox One controller?
selfconfessedcynic
Member
The Elite is fantastic and definitely worth the extra cash.
If that's just too extravagant, then sure - but I'd wait until E3 to see if they put out a new controller. Note that xbox one controllers use a different dongle so you'll have to get that as well (from memory it isn't backwards compatible). May be smart to just get another wireless 360 pad if you want to save some money.
Thanks again.
Any recommendations on motherboards? Asus Z170 series seems recommended but I'm also wondering about futureproofing and haven't had much time to study up on the subject.
SmartWaffles
Member
Wait for two days, see whether MS has a new revision coming up, if not, buy the current revision Xbox One controllers with the wireless adapter.
Are you using any monitoring programs?
See what the clock speeds are at, are they overclocked at all?
Try to downclock Core and Memory by 100Mhz and see if it helps, even if you havent overclocked.
Check in nvidia control panel that the 3D settings are set for adaptive power, not performance mode.
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