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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Sotha_Sil

Member
So, a few days back I posted about having trouble getting the PC to run. Turns out, I'm the idiot who plugged in his DP cable into the mobo and not the GPU.

And the show goes on.
 

Khaz

Member
XD41ED8.jpg

(not my pic, more from https://hardforum.com/threads/silverstone-sugo-sg02-f-budget-build-and-pics.1310531/ )

I'm trying to find a good (meaning quiet) CPU cooler to put in this case, a Silverstone SG02-F. I'm leaning towards a Scythe Shuriken, but it would leave less than 2cm between the PSU fan and the CPU fan, both blowing away in opposite directions. Is it ok if I turn the fan on the CPU cooler to blow away from the fins? the idea would be to have the air flow in one big column from bottom to top, instead of creating a vacuum in between the two fans. Maybe do you know of a better cooler for this type of setup?

shuriken.jpg
 

enewtabie

Member
XD41ED8.jpg

(not my pic, more from https://hardforum.com/threads/silverstone-sugo-sg02-f-budget-build-and-pics.1310531/ )

I'm trying to find a good (meaning quiet) CPU cooler to put in this case, a Silverstone SG02-F. I'm leaning towards a Scythe Shuriken, but it would leave less than 2cm between the PSU fan and the CPU fan, both blowing away in opposite directions. Is it ok if I turn the fan on the CPU cooler to blow away from the fins? the idea would be to have the air flow in one big column from bottom to top, instead of creating a vacuum in between the two fans. Maybe do you know of a better cooler for this type of setup?

shuriken.jpg


Would need to look at the distance but a Cryorig C7 or C1 might would work in that space.
 
I'm trying to find a good (meaning quiet) CPU cooler to put in this case, a Silverstone SG02-F. I'm leaning towards a Scythe Shuriken, but it would leave less than 2cm between the PSU fan and the CPU fan, both blowing away in opposite directions. Is it ok if I turn the fan on the CPU cooler to blow away from the fins? the idea would be to have the air flow in one big column from bottom to top, instead of creating a vacuum in between the two fans. Maybe do you know of a better cooler for this type of setup?

Blowing CPU heatsink air directly into the PSU is probably not a great idea...
 

dVeLoPe

Member
what would the difference be for the new 1080ti vs a 1080?

what could i sell my 1080 for here? it does well over 2100mhz evga 5yr warranty
 

enewtabie

Member
what would the difference be for the new 1080ti vs a 1080?

what could i sell my 1080 for here? it does well over 2100mhz evga 5yr warranty


Everything I've seen on paper puts it in Titan X neighborhood minus the cuda cores/flops.
Shouldn't be long though until a reveal.
 
I'm planning on getting an Asus PG279Q to replace my dying monitor. I wanted to wait for a 4k monitor with HDR and Gsync, but I can't really wait.

I'm planning on using the monitor primarily for the PC, but also for my PS4 (and the Switch in the future.) Will non native resolutions (from the PS4 and PC) look worse than a 5 year old monitor (Dell U2312HM) that's 1080p? Or should I look into getting a KS8000 TV, and hold off until a 4k gsync monitor is released at a lower price in a year or so?
 

Primus

Member
Be looking to finally build my new i7-7700 rig in a month and a half or so, after my tax refunds coming in. Here's what I'm thinking about:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($312.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Rosewill RCX-Z775-LP 33.5 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($12.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master HAF XB EVO ATX Desktop Case ($89.42 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.89 @ Amazon)
Total: $929.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-10 21:27 EST-0500

No MSRP on the GA-Z270X-Gaming 5 yet, expect that to be in the $150 range by the time I assemble as that's where the previous generation Z170X-Gaming 5 is. No video card in the mix 'cause I'll be reusing my current 970 for a little while yet. (My two Samsung monitors are older and only have VGA and DVI ports on them, so I want to replace one with a newer, swankier low-refresh LCD to go with a 1070. Won't have the $600+ for that until later in the year.) I've also got a 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD that I picked up on Cyber Monday courtesy of Amazon's temporary mispricing, that'll be the main data SSD with the 512GB 960 Pro M.2 as OS.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Woot, my new memory showed up today.
I never could get my hands on a 960 Pro so I ended up ordering a 960 Evo 1TB instead and it should get here on Thursday and then I can put it all together. On the plus side, I found out that Newegg doesn't charge me sales tax like Amazon so saved a bit of money there.
Can't wait to try my luck at 5ghz on the kaby lake platform like everyone else this month :)
 

dcx4610

Member
I have a dilemma. I'm in the market for a new monitor and currently have a 24" Asus VG248E at 144hz. I stumbled upon a local deal for an Asus PG27AQ 4k monitor for only $300 which normally retails for $900 (it's open box but perfect condition).

For $300 I'm finding it really hard to pass up but I'm wondering how badly I'll miss 144hz. I do have an Nvidia 1080 GPU so I should at least be able to handle 4k and the monitor also has Gysnc.

Considering the new 4k 144hz monitors are going to run $2000, I'm not going to be in the market for those so what do you guys think? Put down the $300 and give it a go or hold out for some good deals on a 144hz 1440p monitor instead?
 
I have a dilemma. I'm in the market for a new monitor and currently have a 24" Asus VG248E at 144hz. I stumbled upon a local deal for an Asus PG27AQ 4k monitor for only $300 which normally retails for $900 (it's open box but perfect condition).

For $300 I'm finding it really hard to pass up but I'm wondering how badly I'll miss 144hz. I do have an Nvidia 1080 GPU so I should at least be able to handle 4k and the monitor also has Gysnc.

Considering the new 4k 144hz monitors are going to run $2000, I'm not going to be in the market for those so what do you guys think? Put down the $300 and give it a go or hold out for some good deals on a 144hz 1440p monitor instead?

Well... even if it's open box, does the place supplying it offer refunds within a certain period? Could use that to see how you like visual clarity versus performance. Otherwise my admitted personal bias would be towards 4k, because yeah, it looks nice.
 

molnizzle

Member
I'm about to migrate from a Node 304 case to a Define Nano S so I can fit a bigger all-in-one CPU cooler.

Which cooler is the one to get these days? Looking at Corsair's offerings there's like 12.
 

e90Mark

Member
I have a 150Mbps connection but I am only getting 50Mbps with this usb wifi adapter I bought from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01JG1GP7K/

Does anyone use a PCI express wifi card on their desktop? Will I get better speeds? I am one floor directly under my router

USB wifi is so shit. I wish I used PCIE cards earlier.

I have this one and it works great. has Bluetooth as well. -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019JH89YI/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Not sure why it's so expensive right now. This card you can easily get for $30.
 
I'm about to migrate from a Node 304 case to a Define Nano S so I can fit a bigger all-in-one CPU cooler.

Which cooler is the one to get these days? Looking at Corsair's offerings there's like 12.

I just built a pc with this case and I love it. I'm not going to be able to answer your question because I have both my gpu and CPU water cooled, but this case gave me a lot of options. I was able to fit a 240 and a 120 radiator in there.

I've been meaning to post some pictures. One of these days...

I had been looking to add more SSD space to my machine recently.....came upon this deal (pricing error) on WD SSDS. They were marked at $20, instead of $20 off. With that, after a seriously crazy rollercoaster of shipping and shipments being recalled and intercepted, I received one of those shipping envelopes, filled with this:



Dell literally tried to intercept the package this morning, after it was out for delivery. They realized the error relatively early but many drives still shipped to people. I thought I had it guaranteed this morning.....then I got a "shipment has been adjusted to a different address" message. I quickly changed it back to my address. The rest is history...... haha.

I remember seeing you in the Best Buy EBay GTX1080 pricing error thread. I think you got one right? Pricing errors have been good to you if that's the case. Congrats on those SSD's. That's an unbelievably good deal


I've used Gigabyte x99,z67,x58. All bios flakey.
Asus is rock solid. But more costly for feature parity sometimes.
AsRock also rock solid but misses that premium "feel" - that's all. Can be more advanced and raw than all other manufacturers at the same price, exposing more options for less money.

I went with the asrock fatality itx because it's packed with features for the price. So far it's been very solid but I want that new asus strix with the m.2 cooler on the front. Those things run hot and I don't want to put one on the back of my case.

And the color scheme of the strix would go perfect with my black tubing and black nickel fittings plus my black acetal blocks
 

kuYuri

Member
Thanks for these answers. I'll look into replacing my fans too, because my computer has started saying a strange silent noise but which is noticeable when it's all silent here.

Can my setup do DDR4 like these? Or should I just go for 2x8gb more of the ones I already got?

And what kind of fans should I go for? What brand is worth looking into?

DDR4 RAM won't work on your motherboard. Go for more of the Ballistix DDR3 RAM you have if you really must want 32GB.

As for fan recommendations, I'm not that knowledgeable on case fans tbh. Hopefully someone else can help you with that you need.
 

SZips

Member
For what it's worth my 1080 gigabyte G1 (overclocked) is working without issue 6~ months on without issue.

Thanks for the response! I think will go with the Gigabyte G1 Gaming. The price looks solid. The temps are looking fantastic compared to the Zotac and the performance is about equal all things considered. Should be great since I don't really plan on doing much (if any) OC'ing beyond what it ships with.
 
Hey PC gaf, it's been a while since I last posted in here. I'm in a bit of a bind.
Basically, my 270x apparently is preventing my PC to turn on completely: all the fans are spinning, the HDD light turns on briefly, but nothing pops up on screen; plus, I had the occasional freeze while gaming in the last couple months. Removing the GPU or using a different one seems to fix the problem. I'm still not entirely sure it's not my PSU's fault though, even if it should theoretically be powerful enough (500W).

Now, I built this system 2 yars ago: Intel 4400, sapphire 270x 2GB, 8 GB of RAM, 2 SSDs and one HDD. I mainly used it for gaming but, since then, my needs have changed slightly and now I need something more geared towards light content creation. Coding, adobe illustrator, web design, some video editing if I possible.

I'm not sure if I should buy a relatively cheap (<150&#8364;) GPU to keep working until new GPU and CPUs come out (provided they are 1st half of 2027), or shell out for a new build entirely.

If so, I wonder how much I could sell my PC (sans hard drives) for. I'm from Italy.
 

L.O.R.D

Member
ignorance is bless
i just found out that my new monitor has Backlight Bleeding in one era.
i learned that is very common on LCD screen,but my screen is LED.

my laptop doesn't has any Backlight Bleeding and the monitor in work also doesn't has any (both are glossy screen),so glossy screen and thick bezel means no Backlight Bleeding?

i am tempting to return it,but i hate the hassle to tell the shop owner why i want to return it,and it will be worse if he doesn't has replacement,and much worse if i get my money back and go to another shop and buy another monitor and also has Backlight Bleeding.

should i keep it?
 
ignorance is bless
i just found out that my new monitor has Backlight Bleeding in one era.
i learned that is very common on LCD screen,but my screen is LED.

my laptop doesn't has any Backlight Bleeding and the monitor in work also doesn't has any (both are glossy screen),so glossy screen and thick bezel means no Backlight Bleeding?

i am tempting to return it,but i hate the hassle to tell the shop owner why i want to return it,and it will be worse if he doesn't has replacement,and much worse if i get my money back and go to another shop and buy another monitor and also has Backlight Bleeding.

should i keep it?

Your monitor is an LCD panel with LED backlighting. Mine bleeds light also and It bothers me as well.

One of many negatives of LCD panel technology....
 

Vipu

Banned
ignorance is bless
i just found out that my new monitor has Backlight Bleeding in one era.
i learned that is very common on LCD screen,but my screen is LED.

my laptop doesn't has any Backlight Bleeding and the monitor in work also doesn't has any (both are glossy screen),so glossy screen and thick bezel means no Backlight Bleeding?

i am tempting to return it,but i hate the hassle to tell the shop owner why i want to return it,and it will be worse if he doesn't has replacement,and much worse if i get my money back and go to another shop and buy another monitor and also has Backlight Bleeding.

should i keep it?

Your new cars windshield is broke, should you keep it?
 
Å

Åesop

Unconfirmed Member
If I livestream my PS4 with my PC and only have a Samsung 850 Pro SSD with 512 GB (no other harddrive), does the SSD "wear off" faster because it's constantly writing a big load of data to stream it to Twitch? Or is it all going straight to the CPU and my SSD doesn't care if I livestream?
 

MannyCalavera

Neo Member
Thinking of upgrading this year, but don't really know where to start - don't need a full rebuild.

This is what I'm currently working with:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus H81M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card

Where am I going to see most bang for my buck? Also I'm not running on an SSD so should that be a prioity?
 

Vuze

Member
Thinking of upgrading this year, but don't really know where to start - don't need a full rebuild.

This is what I'm currently working with:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus H81M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card

Where am I going to see most bang for my buck? Also I'm not running on an SSD so should that be a prioity?
Maybe a 16gig RAM kit if you can snag one for cheap, otherwise SSDs are always a huge upgrade. You could also wait for AMDs Vega lineup and see if they deliver a good price/perf card.
 

derder

Member
Be looking to finally build my new i7-7700 rig in a month and a half or so, after my tax refunds coming in. Here's what I'm thinking about:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($312.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Rosewill RCX-Z775-LP 33.5 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($12.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master HAF XB EVO ATX Desktop Case ($89.42 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.89 @ Amazon)
Total: $929.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-10 21:27 EST-0500

No MSRP on the GA-Z270X-Gaming 5 yet, expect that to be in the $150 range by the time I assemble as that's where the previous generation Z170X-Gaming 5 is. No video card in the mix 'cause I'll be reusing my current 970 for a little while yet. (My two Samsung monitors are older and only have VGA and DVI ports on them, so I want to replace one with a newer, swankier low-refresh LCD to go with a 1070. Won't have the $600+ for that until later in the year.) I've also got a 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD that I picked up on Cyber Monday courtesy of Amazon's temporary mispricing, that'll be the main data SSD with the 512GB 960 Pro M.2 as OS.

You really should consider the K chip. The biggest benefit to the 7 series is the ability to OC to 5GHz
 
Thinking of upgrading this year, but don't really know where to start - don't need a full rebuild.

This is what I'm currently working with:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus H81M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card

Where am I going to see most bang for my buck? Also I'm not running on an SSD so should that be a prioity?

Start by thinking about what factors make you want to upgrade. Is it low, choppy, jittery FPS? Is it slow software development compiling, video rendering time? etc.

Since you don't want a full rebuild, consider one or some of the followings:

Upgrade the CPU to a 4790K, extra 700 mhz, 4 threads will do wonder.
1 more stick of RAM to a total of 16GBs.
SSD for a more snappy experience.

The 970 is a little bit slower than the current midrange card like the 1060 or the AMD 480,
side-grade to them if your games crave more VRAM, but this will be the least bang for buck.
 
Åesop;228069393 said:
If I livestream my PS4 with my PC and only have a Samsung 850 Pro SSD with 512 GB (no other harddrive), does the SSD "wear off" faster because it's constantly writing a big load of data to stream it to Twitch? Or is it all going straight to the CPU and my SSD doesn't care if I livestream?

It encodes and sends it out to the network straight away. It doesn't hit your SSD.
 
Hey so I have a weird problem with my PC that I built, and I'd like some ideas.

I built this PC about a year ago, i5-4690k and a 970. Everything worked perfect for awhile, then I started getting weird HDMI issues.

Occasionally I would get audio corruption (audio is through HDMI) and general graphics slowdown. The problem did not occur with integrated graphics (as far as I can test). The problem would disappear after a restart. Sometimes, a restart would not solve the problem. Other times the problem would never even happen when I booted from fresh. Sometimes, the problem would appear after the computer went to sleep. It was incredibly inconsistent.

Another problem is that occasionally my shutdown and restarts will fail. The screen will go blank, hard drive and fans stop spinning, but the light stays on and the computer doesn't finish the shut down or restart. Also, the computer would occasionally completely fail to boot. Turn on the computer, no BIOS and a blank screen, and the hard drive doesn't spin. These issues seemed correlated with the audio corruption and slowdown issues, typically occurring at the same time.

This created a routine where I basically restart my computer several times until I get a "good" boot and could use my graphics card.

I did the following:
- Reinstalled graphics drivers (clean install, and display driver uninstaller)
- Reinstalled mobo drivers
- Updated BIOS
- Checked GPU for being placed incorrectly
- Checked for heating issues - none
- Checked for voltage issues - none that I can see
- Fresh Windows 8.1 install

So I figured I was going to have to RMA my card. Damn...

Then Windows 10 came out and I installed it. All of the problems were eliminated No more slowdown. No more audio corruption. No more restart issues. Completely fixed. Awesome right? No more RMA.

Fast forward to a week ago. I'm a programmer (computer graphics specifically, my GPU is my baby). I wanted to mess around with some Vulkan stuff, and I'm not a huge fan of Windows development so I installed Linux in a dual-boot configuration. All of the problems returned.

I reinstalled Windows 10 completely fresh. I formatted all my hard drives, and removed the Linux partition. The problem still persists. I've also retryed all the above debugging steps.

So what the hell could be wrong PC-GAF? At this point I'm probably just going to RMA the card, but I'm completely bewildered. As I said, I'm a programmer on the systems and graphics level, so I typically pretty familiar with what's causing a computer's issues. This is a complete curveball for me.

Any last ideas before I RMA the card?
 
Hey so I have a weird problem with my PC that I built, and I'd like some ideas.

I built this PC about a year ago, i5-4690k and a 970. Everything worked perfect for awhile, then I started getting weird HDMI issues.

Occasionally I would get audio corruption (audio is through HDMI) and general graphics slowdown. The problem did not occur with integrated graphics (as far as I can test). The problem would disappear after a restart. Sometimes, a restart would not solve the problem. Other times the problem would never even happen when I booted from fresh. Sometimes, the problem would appear after the computer went to sleep. It was incredibly inconsistent.

Another problem is that occasionally my shutdown and restarts will fail. The screen will go blank, hard drive and fans stop spinning, but the light stays on and the computer doesn't finish the shut down or restart. Also, the computer would occasionally completely fail to boot. Turn on the computer, no BIOS and a blank screen, and the hard drive doesn't spin. These issues seemed correlated with the audio corruption and slowdown issues, typically occurring at the same time.

This created a routine where I basically restart my computer several times until I get a "good" boot and could use my graphics card.

I did the following:
- Reinstalled graphics drivers (clean install, and display driver uninstaller)
- Reinstalled mobo drivers
- Updated BIOS
- Checked GPU for being placed incorrectly
- Checked for heating issues - none
- Checked for voltage issues - none that I can see
- Fresh Windows 8.1 install

So I figured I was going to have to RMA my card. Damn...

Then Windows 10 came out and I installed it. All of the problems were eliminated No more slowdown. No more audio corruption. No more restart issues. Completely fixed. Awesome right? No more RMA.

Fast forward to a week ago. I'm a programmer (computer graphics specifically, my GPU is my baby). I wanted to mess around with some Vulkan stuff, and I'm not a huge fan of Windows development so I installed Linux in a dual-boot configuration. All of the problems returned.

I reinstalled Windows 10 completely fresh. I formatted all my hard drives, and removed the Linux partition. The problem still persists. I've also retryed all the above debugging steps.

So what the hell could be wrong PC-GAF? At this point I'm probably just going to RMA the card, but I'm completely bewildered. As I said, I'm a programmer on the systems and graphics level, so I typically pretty familiar with what's causing a computer's issues. This is a complete curveball for me.

Any last ideas before I RMA the card?
That's tough indeed. What's the brand? One last thing to try I can think of is to update/reflash the GPU vBIOS. Doing so probably will void the warranty though.
 
Hey so I have a weird problem with my PC that I built, and I'd like some ideas.

I built this PC about a year ago, i5-4690k and a 970. Everything worked perfect for awhile, then I started getting weird HDMI issues.

Occasionally I would get audio corruption (audio is through HDMI) and general graphics slowdown. The problem did not occur with integrated graphics (as far as I can test). The problem would disappear after a restart. Sometimes, a restart would not solve the problem. Other times the problem would never even happen when I booted from fresh. Sometimes, the problem would appear after the computer went to sleep. It was incredibly inconsistent.

Another problem is that occasionally my shutdown and restarts will fail. The screen will go blank, hard drive and fans stop spinning, but the light stays on and the computer doesn't finish the shut down or restart. Also, the computer would occasionally completely fail to boot. Turn on the computer, no BIOS and a blank screen, and the hard drive doesn't spin. These issues seemed correlated with the audio corruption and slowdown issues, typically occurring at the same time.

This created a routine where I basically restart my computer several times until I get a "good" boot and could use my graphics card.

I did the following:
- Reinstalled graphics drivers (clean install, and display driver uninstaller)
- Reinstalled mobo drivers
- Updated BIOS
- Checked GPU for being placed incorrectly
- Checked for heating issues - none
- Checked for voltage issues - none that I can see
- Fresh Windows 8.1 install

So I figured I was going to have to RMA my card. Damn...

Then Windows 10 came out and I installed it. All of the problems were eliminated No more slowdown. No more audio corruption. No more restart issues. Completely fixed. Awesome right? No more RMA.

Fast forward to a week ago. I'm a programmer (computer graphics specifically, my GPU is my baby). I wanted to mess around with some Vulkan stuff, and I'm not a huge fan of Windows development so I installed Linux in a dual-boot configuration. All of the problems returned.

I reinstalled Windows 10 completely fresh. I formatted all my hard drives, and removed the Linux partition. The problem still persists. I've also retryed all the above debugging steps.

So what the hell could be wrong PC-GAF? At this point I'm probably just going to RMA the card, but I'm completely bewildered. As I said, I'm a programmer on the systems and graphics level, so I typically pretty familiar with what's causing a computer's issues. This is a complete curveball for me.

Any last ideas before I RMA the card?

Have you tried using a different PSU? What PSU are you using?
 
Quick question.

I haven't bought a PC for so long, and I'm in no rush so should I buy a PC now or wait for Ryzen...etc?

Budget is around $2,000 with monitor

EDIT: but I need to get one in Q1 at least don't want to wait much longer

Thanks in advance
 

Primus

Member
You really should consider the K chip. The biggest benefit to the 7 series is the ability to OC to 5GHz

Don't plan on any overclocking. However, aside from gaming, I do video editing (Adobe Premiere) on the side, and the girlfriend's work (she runs a high-end print shop that mainly caters to architectural and engineering firms) regularly has her working on massive plan sets in Illustrator & InDesign. The i7 really helps out here over an i5, especially for my video work.
 
Don't plan on any overclocking. However, aside from gaming, I do video editing (Adobe Premiere) on the side, and the girlfriend's work (she runs a high-end print shop that mainly caters to architectural and engineering firms) regularly has her working on massive plan sets in Illustrator & InDesign. The i7 really helps out here over an i5, especially for my video work.

Then why pay extra for the z270 board?
 
Quick question.

I haven't bought a PC for so long, and I'm in no rush so should I buy a PC now or wait for Ryzen...etc?

Budget is around $2,000 with monitor

EDIT: but I need to get one in Q1 at least don't want to wait much longer

Thanks in advance

If you're in no rush and want to go nuts, I'd say wait. Once Ryzen comes out - which should be before Q1 is over - it should generally set the stage for how high-end CPUs - and consequently as well, motherboards - will cost versus performance, so better to wait.
 
If you're in no rush and want to go nuts, I'd say wait. Once Ryzen comes out - which should be before Q1 is over - it should generally set the stage for how high-end CPUs - and consequently as well, motherboards - will cost versus performance, so better to wait.

cool.. thanks

I'll check back in March :)
 
Quick question.

I haven't bought a PC for so long, and I'm in no rush so should I buy a PC now or wait for Ryzen...etc?

Budget is around $2,000 with monitor

EDIT: but I need to get one in Q1 at least don't want to wait much longer

Thanks in advance

I can't imagine Ryzen beating out an i7-7700K/GTX 1080 PC.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I can't imagine Ryzen beating out an i7-7700K/GTX 1080 PC.
In what respect really?

The only thing I'd be wary of is super wonky frame times from a low IPC/per thread performance. If those can stay consistent, would a 5% drop in performance for 30% less money really constitute beating it out?

It's theoretical, but what I'm saying is, it doesn't really matter who is king anymore with CPUs, as long as the performance is consistent in gaming. That's the problem with the current AMD chips, you get all sorts of stuttery/wonky frame times from the low per thread performance, considering that they're repurposed server procs.

At the end of the day, Avg FPS is a meaningless metric when it comes to any modern PC part. It's a dumb pissing contest that the end user doesn't even notice. You can still rock solid high frames on a Sandy Bridge PC with a brand new GPU.
 
Wish there was a deal on RX 480s right now. My 7870 appears to be dead, I don't have another PC to test the card in unfortunately. I suspect it is a hardware issue or Windows has broken something.
 
Wish there was a deal on RX 480s right now. My 7870 appears to be dead, I don't have another PC to test the card in unfortunately. I suspect it is a hardware issue or Windows has broken something.

What sort of price range you looking at? Because there are some 8GB models you can get at $230.
 
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