• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

Status
Not open for further replies.

Samus4145

Member
Found this on google:

"Look on the motherboard, there should be a sticker with the bios version, if it is 2002 or above you are good to go, 2002 is compatible but doesn't give full functionality, you would need to update to the 3000 series bios for that.
Read the manual to see if it has ASUS bios flashback capability, with ASUS flashback the bios can be updated without a CPU or memory installed only the power supply connected to the board "

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?89981-Z170-A-and-kaby-lake

The description for BIOS 3007 said nothing about the new intel CPU. Only that it improved system stability, so I doubt it. Apparently there was a 3307 for some time, but it had some problems and ASUS took it down.

Thanks! I still have the 6600K in it, so I'll flash to 3007 and see what happens when the 7700K shows up. I knowe gaming wise the boost won't be much, but I mostly jumped on it for the added power for encoding and that production fun stuff.
 

Retsudo

Member
^ I will, i'm still missing the Ram dimms, the 1070 i ordered, the psu and the Monitor as they havent been delivered yet. Hopefully everything arrives by later today or tomorrow.
 

vector824

Member
Thanks! I still have the 6600K in it, so I'll flash to 3007 and see what happens when the 7700K shows up. I know gaming wise the boost won't be much, but I mostly jumped on it for the added power for encoding and that production fun stuff.

Anyone seen 4k rendering benchmarks on these new CPUs? I'm curious as to what the difference between the i5 and i7 is.
 

LilJoka

Member
The description for BIOS 3007 said nothing about the new intel CPU. Only that it improved system stability, so I doubt it. Apparently there was a 3307 for some time, but it had some problems and ASUS took it down.



Just out of curiosity why do you switch from a 6700 to a 7700?

Only because I get a discount from Intel. It's like £170 after tax so anyone who wants a very good deal on a 6700k is welcome ;)
 

Pyrokai

Member
Guys, I think I'm actually doing it! I'm building my first PC! I have no idea what I'm doing, but I'm doing it!

Edit (sorry hit enter too early):

Here's what I've chosen so far:

--A friend's old Nvidia GTX650 2GB ($0)
--DDR3 RAM to go with that ($0)
--AMD FX 8350 with wraith cooler ($120 at Microcenter)
--Motherboard that goes with it ($60 at Miocrocenter)

And that's all so far! I'm trying to build an extremely budget computer that can play PS3/360 level games downward. I plan on getting a better graphics card when I have the money, but it would be nice to stay under $350.

I still need:
--A case
--A power supply
--Windows 10
---SSD

Anything else I'm forgetting? Would love to make sure this is future proof but I'm really dumb at this stuff. I realize I might need to get a new processor and motherboard in the future.

Edit 2: My main goal is to be able to play PS3/360-level games at 1080p/60fps at full settings. I know I can't do that with this setup, but if I got a better graphics card, could I do that with this processor?
 

Menome

Member
Hello all, been a while since I last needed some tips. I'm someone who's comfortable at just 1080p resolution so long as it's at 60fps.

I'm running:

Intel i5 3570K
GeForce 780 GTX
8GB DDR3 RAM

Games like Rise Of The Tomb Raider and Doom have run pretty great last year with a few drops during frantic action, but nothing too serious. However games like Dishonored 2 (even though I know it's unoptimised still) are starting to take their toll in dropping below 60fps/getting blurriness from dynamic resolutions, and loading times are also getting very noticeable.

Am I best off upgrading the CPU, GPU or possibly making the leap to a SSD? The latter would be a pain in the backside as I have about 1TB across three hard-drives to consolidate down, but if it's the best route, it's the best route.
 

vector824

Member
Hello all, been a while since I last needed some tips. I'm someone who's comfortable at just 1080p resolution so long as it's at 60fps.

I'm running:

Intel i5 3570K
GeForce 780 GTX
8GB DDR3 RAM

Games like Rise Of The Tomb Raider and Doom have run pretty great last year with a few drops during frantic action, but nothing too serious. However games like Dishonored 2 (even though I know it's unoptimised still) are starting to take their toll in dropping below 60fps/getting blurriness from dynamic resolutions, and loading times are also getting very noticeable.

Am I best off upgrading the CPU, GPU or possibly making the leap to a SSD? The latter would be a pain in the backside as I have about 1TB across three hard-drives to consolidate down, but if it's the best route, it's the best route.

Jump to something like a Nvidia 1060 or 1070 for the GPU, clone your OS disk to an SSD of the correct size and keep the other drives as backups. CPU is fine, here is a comparison. MAYBE spring for another 8gb of RAM down to road.
 

LaneDS

Member
I put together a fairly top of the line PC for a buddy who lives across the country, and I'd like to use his Windows 10 license on the box. I don't have install media but am sure that it's easy enough to find an ISO and create a bootable Windows 10 USB thumb drive, but I'm confused as to the best way past that to get that system setup with whatever license his current system is using. Is there a string he can pull off his installation and just e-mail to me, or is it more complex than that?

Any advice folks could shed on the best way forward with that?
 
Guys, I think I'm actually doing it! I'm building my first PC! I have no idea what I'm doing, but I'm doing it!

Edit (sorry hit enter too early):

Here's what I've chosen so far:

--A friend's old Nvidia GTX650 2GB ($0)
--DDR3 RAM to go with that ($0)
--AMD FX 8350 with wraith cooler ($120 at Microcenter)
--Motherboard that goes with it ($60 at Miocrocenter)

And that's all so far! I'm trying to build an extremely budget computer that can play PS3/360 level games downward. I plan on getting a better graphics card when I have the money, but it would be nice to stay under $350.

I still need:
--A case
--A power supply
--Windows 10

Anything else I'm forgetting? Would love to make sure this is future proof but I'm really dumb at this stuff. I realize I might need to get a new processor and motherboard in the future.

Edit 2: My main goal is to be able to play PS3/360-level games at 1080p/60fps at full settings. I know I can't do that with this setup, but if I got a better graphics card, could I do that with this processor?

With a better graphics card, easy. An 8350 can handle the Witcher 3 on the highest settings for the most part, so for last gen games that'll be almost overkill, really. It will however have some greater leniency in playing newer stuff, though it'll be more costly to replace in future (since you'll have to get a new CPU, Mobo, and RAM at that stage).
 

Jezbollah

Member
Is there a particular reason people are jumping on the Kaby train before seeing how the Ryzen lineup pans out?

I suspect familiarity with the recent trend of Intel releases, compatibility with existing motherboards via firmware updates and lack of confidence in AMD being competitive in this specific market.
 

Retsudo

Member
Is there a particular reason people are jumping on the Kaby train before seeing how the Ryzen lineup pans out?

For me specifically it was about timing. I waited to build my new pc, to see what AMD would do, but seeing as i needed a new pc like 5 months ago, and they weren't showing prices and release dates that was it.

Will i regret it? I guess we will have to wait and see :p
 

Pyrokai

Member
With a better graphics card, easy. An 8350 can handle the Witcher 3 on the highest settings for the most part, so for last gen games that'll be almost overkill, really. It will however have some greater leniency in playing newer stuff, though it'll be more costly to replace in future (since you'll have to get a new CPU, Mobo, and RAM at that stage).

Oh very nice. That's better than I expected. So with a better graphics card, would Witcher 3 run at 1080p/60fps?

Also, what about Overwatch out of curiosity...........?
 

Zunja

Member
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3ZRzHN


This is the pc I wanna get for my gf. I want the i7 so she can stream I know the video is kinda low but we can upgrade in like 2 or so years. My fear is I can't find a good motherboard for it cause I'm just not that knowledgeable yet. Anyone have any good parts of this that'll keep it under 900
 

Menome

Member
Jump to something like a Nvidia 1060 or 1070 for the GPU, clone your OS disk to an SSD of the correct size and keep the other drives as backups. CPU is fine, here is a comparison. MAYBE spring for another 8gb of RAM down to road.

Thanks for the help. Glad the CPU can stay the same for the time being, I don't look forward to ever having to replace it with a massive fan also attached on top nowadays!
 

Chuckl3s

Member
Anyone purchase the Support and Accidental Damage Service from Dell? I'm buying my Wife an XPS for her birthday. We are both tech savvy so we wouldn't need phone support but that accidental damage looks reasonable.
 
Oh very nice. That's better than I expected. So with a better graphics card, would Witcher 3 run at 1080p/60fps?

Also, what about Overwatch out of curiosity...........?

Easily. Get yourself something like a GTX 1060 and you'd be set. For reference, I have an FX-6350 (which I got because it was cheaply available, though regret because of the lack of upgrade options - wasn't aware of at the time) with a GTX 970, and the only times the game really gives me trouble is when I go into Novigrad, where it hangs more in the low 50s/high 40s.
 
posting this again to see if anyone can answer...

If a PSU comes with a power tester (?) like the EVGA ones do can you plug in one of the SATA power cables to test things like the fans (if they are hooked up to a SATA powered fan controller) and an optical drive to just test if it powers on (tray opens and closes)?
 

LilJoka

Member
Is there a particular reason people are jumping on the Kaby train before seeing how the Ryzen lineup pans out?

Probably because of historical rep. There is so much hype each time AMD launches a new CPU and then it turns out to be decent but not compelling enough. From latest rumors itll perform like broadwell in terms of IPC, so if you want the best consumer grade stuff, its still Intel who has it.
 

Pyrokai

Member
Overwatch runs well on almost anything. Should be great with an updated GPU.

Easily. Get yourself something like a GTX 1060 and you'd be set. For reference, I have an FX-6350 (which I got because it was cheaply available, though regret because of the lack of upgrade options - wasn't aware of at the time) with a GTX 970, and the only times the game really gives me trouble is when I go into Novigrad, where it hangs more in the low 50s/high 40s.


Oh very exciting! I'm assuming, though, like I think you said earlier, that I also won't have much in the way of upgrade options if I go this route, right? Because if I want to upgrade I'd essentially have to get a new CPU, motherboard, and RAM. GPU should be good for a while if I buy one that will last. I'm assuming a good graphics card is compatible with different processors? Or are those brand specific as well? (like if I went Intel next time for CPU). I'm just not sure if there is anything above FX 8350 from AMD.
 
Quick question, hopefully someone will know.

I have a 2 drive, 1 x 120G SSD, another bog standard 500GB hard drive (Seagate ST3500413AS). The SSD shows as running at SATA3 on HD Tune, while the bog standard drive, despite the tech specs saying it can run at SATA3, shows as running on SATA 2.6.

Both drives have the same type of SATA 3 cable connected, to both of my SATA 3 ports on the motherboard (the grey ports). Swapping the cables around, HD Tune still reports the same as before.

Now, I know I wont see a speed increase at all even if the HDD was running on SATA3, but its more about why isn't it running at SATA3 when everything is set up (I assume) correctly.

Drives are set to AHCI in BIOS, tried installing SATA drivers, no changes at all. BIOS shows HDD connected to second SATA3 port. BIOS updated, no change.

Hope someone has an answer, Googling didn't really find anything. Motherboard is a Asus Z77M-Pro. No jumper blocks on the HDD pins at the back.
 
Oh very exciting! I'm assuming, though, like I think you said earlier, that I also won't have much in the way of upgrade options if I go this route, right? Because if I want to upgrade I'd essentially have to get a new CPU, motherboard, and RAM. GPU should be good for a while if I buy one that will last. I'm assuming a good graphics card is compatible with different processors? Or are those brand specific as well? (like if I went Intel next time for CPU). I'm just not sure if there is anything above FX 8350 from AMD.

Graphics cards are compatible with differing processors, yes. You'd be in the same boat I am where there aren't many better CPUs on the same socket type. Only options you'd have are either the 8370 - so, marginal - or the 9590 - absurd power draw and requires liquid cooling. Otherwise, you'll have to replace motherboard and the like, yes. AMD has its new Ryzen CPUs coming out soon, on the AM4 socket, while Intel is already releasing its Kabylake CPUs.
 

LilJoka

Member
Quick question, hopefully someone will know.

I have a 2 drive, 1 x 120G SSD, another bog standard 500GB hard drive (Seagate ST3500413AS). The SSD shows as running at SATA3 on HD Tune, while the bog standard drive, despite the tech specs saying it can run at SATA3, shows as running on SATA 2.6.

Both drives have the same type of SATA 3 cable connected, to both of my SATA 3 ports on the motherboard (the grey ports). Swapping the cables around, HD Tune still reports the same as before.

Now, I know I wont see a speed increase at all even if the HDD was running on SATA3, but its more about why isn't it running at SATA3 when everything is set up (I assume) correctly.

Drives are set to AHCI in BIOS, tried installing SATA drivers, no changes at all. BIOS shows HDD connected to second SATA3 port. BIOS updated, no change.

Hope someone has an answer, Googling didn't really find anything. Motherboard is a Asus Z77M-Pro. No jumper blocks on the HDD pins at the back.

Sounds more like HDTune reporting something incorrectly. ive never even heard of SATA 2.6. From wikipedia it looks like it is part of the slim line connectors some all in one computers used.
 

Pyrokai

Member
Graphics cards are compatible with differing processors, yes. You'd be in the same boat I am where there aren't many better CPUs on the same socket type. Only options you'd have are either the 8370 - so, marginal - or the 9590 - absurd power draw and requires liquid cooling. Otherwise, you'll have to replace motherboard and the like, yes. AMD has its new Ryzen CPUs coming out soon, on the AM4 socket, while Intel is already releasing its Kabylake CPUs.

Hmmmmm.....you're making me wonder if I should just take the plunge and go for something similar like an i5, which would cost more NOW but then I wouldn't have to worry about spending more when I upgrade......would I? If I got an i5 and compatible motherboard, does that future proof me more than if I went the other route with the AMD processor? If not, I'll go AMD, but if I know for sure that I can upgrade my CPU and not have to buy a new motherboard in 5-6 years, I would probably go that route instead, methinks.
 
Hmmmmm.....you're making me wonder if I should just take the plunge and go for something similar like an i5, which would cost more NOW but then I wouldn't have to worry about spending more when I upgrade......would I? If I got an i5 and compatible motherboard, does that future proof me more than if I went the other route with the AMD processor? If not, I'll go AMD, but if I know for sure that I can upgrade my CPU and not have to buy a new motherboard in 5-6 years, I would probably go that route instead, methinks.

More than an AM3+ CPU like the FX-8350? Very much so. More than AMD in general? Unclear until Ryzen actually releases. The new i5-7600k is around the $250 price point, while the older i5-6500 is at $200, and the i3-6100 at $120. All use the LGA 1151 socket type, so the same motherboard could run any of them with the right BIOS.
 

jtb

Banned
I know 8GB RAM will be more than sufficient for most games, but when we're talking city builders like Cities: Skylines or open world games like GTA V, will it make an impact? Or is that more CPU that's the bottleneck in those cases?

For reference, I have a GTX 1060 and a i5 6500.
 
Keep in mind that you will need to update the BIOS of the Z170 to be able to use the new 7000 series Intel processors. I would recommend you to get a Z270 motherboard instead as it already supports the Kaby Lake processors.

Ah, okay.

Z270 seems to be really new, so I've updated my parts. ~$500. I'm gonna sit on this for a while, I think. Hopefully the 7600k doesn't suddenly shoot up to a crazy price after Newegg's sale ends.
 
Sounds more like HDTune reporting something incorrectly. ive never even heard of SATA 2.6. From wikipedia it looks like it is part of the slim line connectors some all in one computers used.

Think you might be right, I tried another bit of software, CrystalDiskInfo, and it shows both drives as running SATA/600 (even as far as Currently Running / Capable Of, both SATA/600), so I will leave it at that :) Cheers !
 

mkenyon

Banned
I am having the same problem.

Seems like pick a brand and hope it doesn't suck.
When buying during release week, just go with ASUS. It's so frequently parroted that I think people typically dismiss it, but they really do have BIOS/UEFI programming on the lock down.

After sticking with Gigabyte for a number of years since I think they were doing a better job, design-wise as well as materials, I went back to ASUS after a number of BIOS/UEFI related issues. Haven't regretted it once.

The most underrated feature that ASUS brings to the table is the BIOS EZ Flash utility. It has saved at least 6-8 builds from total disaster for me.

So now when I shop motherboards, I click ASUS, and then see what features I want. Pick from there. Generally it's their $130-150 range mATX board for Z, or their $80-100 board for non-K chip builds.

The board I'd suggest in builds for just about anyone - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...132940&cm_re=matx_z270-_-13-132-940-_-Product

The one I'd probably buy, cause out of all PC parts, I always do overkill on mobos - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...132929&cm_re=matx_z270-_-13-132-929-_-Product

The one that I'm trying to talk myself out of right now, as I'd need to get an external DAC/Amp to replace my Soundblaster ZxR

STRIX-Z270I-GAMING-2DJPG.jpg

That bottom heat sink is removable, and you attach it to NVME drives! Sold me right there.
 
So, I'm very likely to come into ownership of an i7-6700K soon. Would it be worth getting a Z270 board to go with that, and if so, what would people recommend? If not, then what would people recommend instead? I may do overclocking but it's not a priority, and live in the UK.

Edit: Ah, I see a similar discussion is already in progress
 

LilJoka

Member
When buying during release week, just go with ASUS. It's so frequently parroted that I think people typically dismiss it, but they really do have BIOS/UEFI programming on the lock down.

After sticking with Gigabyte for a number of years since I think they were doing a better job, design-wise as well as materials, I went back to ASUS after a number of BIOS/UEFI related issues. Haven't regretted it once.

The most underrated feature that ASUS brings to the table is the BIOS EZ Flash utility. It has saved at least 6-8 builds from total disaster for me.

So now when I shop motherboards, I click ASUS, and then see what features I want. Pick from there. Generally it's their $130-150 range mATX board for Z, or their $80-100 board for non-K chip builds.

The board I'd suggest in builds for just about anyone - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...132940&cm_re=matx_z270-_-13-132-940-_-Product

The one I'd probably buy, cause out of all PC parts, I always do overkill on mobos - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...132929&cm_re=matx_z270-_-13-132-929-_-Product

The one that I'm trying to talk myself out of right now, as I'd need to get an external DAC/Amp to replace my Soundblaster ZxR



That bottom heat sink is removable, and you attach it to NVME drives! Sold me right there.

I've used Gigabyte x99,z67,x58. All bios flakey.
Asus is rock solid. But more costly for feature parity sometimes.
AsRock also rock solid but misses that premium "feel" - that's all. Can be more advanced and raw than all other manufacturers at the same price, exposing more options for less money.
 

kuYuri

Member
Is there a 2017 thread of this? Anyway, I got a few questions but first my computer setup, which you guys helped me build back in 2014, so thanks a lot yet again:



I got a bluray optical drive, card reader, 3 cards with USB 3.0 ports, 1 SSD and 5 HDDs installed on the inside as well.

1) With all of these USB ports and hard drives, would you recommend me upgrading my power supply? Or does it cut it?

2) Should I have all of these hard drives installed internally, or is it better I install them in external boxes on the outside?

3) Are there any 16gb RAM cards, or should I just buy 2x8gb more to bring my total to 32gb? Does it even matter if I have 4x8 or 2x16?

4) I only have 2 fans installed, one in the back (which is the one that came with the case), and one in the lower front where all the hard drives are lined up. Should I add more fans, for example to the upper front, the top and bottom? Maybe even some better fans? Which ones are recommended?

1. Your PSU should be fine.

2. Keep them internal, that's what all those drive cages in the R4 are designed for.

3. I don't think there are any Z87 boards that have modules that accept 16GB RAM sticks, so 8 max is your only option.

4. If you think you need or want more cooling fans, add one on top and one more on the front.

I popped in earlier about upgrading my CPU, and it was a good thing I had waited because new and more powerful stuff came along for nearly the same price.

I am now thinking of upgrading a few components at this point, to fit the new Kaby Lake I5 that came out a few days ago.

Intel® Core™ i5-7600K Processor(6M Cache, up to 4.20 GHz)

It's an LGA 1151, so I'd have to put out for a new Motherboard and RAM. Right now, I'm rocking a Z97 with a I3-4150 @ 3.5GHz (DUAL CORE!! AGH!) It's currently going for around $250 (Newegg link)

I have an R9 280x that's still kickin' pretty good. The dual core seems like a bottleneck, so I don't think I've been getting all the juice out of it. Still 16GB of RAM.

So I can't have an LGA 1151 at the moment. I went over to PCPartPicker to put together a quick prospective upgrade build. Three things: CPU, Motherboard, and RAM.



This is pretty much my Star Citizen upgrade and will be the build that takes me into 2020 at the very least. I'm wondering if another set of eyes might see any flaws in this plan. Is it worth to put ~$500 into this new stuff, or would it be best to pretty much stick with what I have an get a new (but older) LGA 1150 quad-core processor?

I'd say definitely get a quad core for your PC. A 4790k is still a very capable CPU. I'm using one now with a 1080 and I don't feel like I need to upgrade at all.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I've used Gigabyte x99,z67,x58. All bios flakey.
Asus is rock solid. But more costly for feature parity sometimes.
AsRock also rock solid but misses that premium "feel" - that's all. Can be more advanced and raw than all other manufacturers at the same price, exposing more options for less money.
The big problem I have with ASRock is build quality. There's barely any copper in their PCB, and it's only a few layers. You get crosstalk on the audio, all sorts of whine and chatter at times. It's so thin, that attaching something like a Noctua cooler is frightening.

The peace of mind for a 3-5 year build is worth $20-30 extra, IMO.

And yeah, with GB, I had two full loop builds fail. One on X99 (G1 Assassin) and Z87 (Sniper M5), as well as a few work PCs fail with H chipsets. Swapped them all with ASUS, good to go.

However, my favorite motherboard of all time is still the Z77 UP7


That thing was a dream to use, BIOS/UEFI was rock solid, and the buttons for changing frequency when benchmarking was famazing. I swear it could take any Sandy/Ivy chip to 5.0GHz.
 
The big problem I have with ASRock is build quality. There's barely any copper in their PCB, and it's only a few layers. You get crosstalk on the audio, all sorts of whine and chatter at times. It's so thin, that attaching something like a Noctua cooler is frightening.

The peace of mind for a 3-5 year build is worth $20-30 extra, IMO.

And yeah, with GB, I had two full loop builds fail. One on X99 (G1 Assassin) and Z87 (Sniper M5), as well as a few work PCs fail with H chipsets. Swapped them all with ASUS, good to go.

However, my favorite motherboard of all time is still the Z77 UP7



That thing was a dream to use, BIOS/UEFI was rock solid, and the buttons for changing frequency when benchmarking was famazing. I swear it could take any Sandy/Ivy chip to 5.0GHz.


The UP7 you sold me a few years ago is on it's last legs, sadly. Fails to post constantly. Usually takes three or four tries before it finally posts and starts to boot. Still works great once it posts, though. I'm running the 2500K at 4.5GHz incredibly stable. (The failures happen on stock settings too, so I know its not related to the overclock.) It's just starting to die. Now I'm just waiting to see what Ryzen does so I can make a decision regarding replacements.
 
Hmmmmm.....you're making me wonder if I should just take the plunge and go for something similar like an i5, which would cost more NOW but then I wouldn't have to worry about spending more when I upgrade......would I? If I got an i5 and compatible motherboard, does that future proof me more than if I went the other route with the AMD processor? If not, I'll go AMD, but if I know for sure that I can upgrade my CPU and not have to buy a new motherboard in 5-6 years, I would probably go that route instead, methinks.

Personally, I think it's always better to consider the CPU & motherboard as one purchase. So buying the best processor you can for a given MB/architecture is really the way to go.

Although it's possible to upgrade a processor without motherboard or vise-versa, I have never actually done it, and I know that's how it works out for a lot of other people too. For one, usually in a year or two when I'm ready to swap a CPU, stuff that's still compatible with my current motherboard has been hard to come by. Second, by that time there are usually other upgrades on the motherboard I'm interested in (RAM, ports, whatever).
 

Pachimari

Member
1. Your PSU should be fine.

2. Keep them internal, that's what all those drive cages in the R4 are designed for.

3. I don't think there are any Z87 boards that have modules that accept 16GB RAM sticks, so 8 max is your only option.

4. If you think you need or want more cooling fans, add one on top and one more on the front.

Thanks for these answers. I'll look into replacing my fans too, because my computer has started saying a strange silent noise but which is noticeable when it's all silent here.

Can my setup do DDR4 like these? Or should I just go for 2x8gb more of the ones I already got?

And what kind of fans should I go for? What brand is worth looking into?
 

mkenyon

Banned
The UP7 you sold me a few years ago is on it's last legs, sadly. Fails to post constantly. Usually takes three or four tries before it finally posts and starts to boot. Still works great once it posts, though. I'm running the 2500K at 4.5GHz incredibly stable. (The failures happen on stock settings too, so I know its not related to the overclock.) It's just starting to die. Now I'm just waiting to see what Ryzen does so I can make a decision regarding replacements.

:(

No BIOS/UEFI updates available?
 

enewtabie

Member
When buying during release week, just go with ASUS. It's so frequently parroted that I think people typically dismiss it, but they really do have BIOS/UEFI programming on the lock down.

After sticking with Gigabyte for a number of years since I think they were doing a better job, design-wise as well as materials, I went back to ASUS after a number of BIOS/UEFI related issues. Haven't regretted it once.

The most underrated feature that ASUS brings to the table is the BIOS EZ Flash utility. It has saved at least 6-8 builds from total disaster for me.

So now when I shop motherboards, I click ASUS, and then see what features I want. Pick from there. Generally it's their $130-150 range mATX board for Z, or their $80-100 board for non-K chip builds.

The board I'd suggest in builds for just about anyone - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...132940&cm_re=matx_z270-_-13-132-940-_-Product

The one I'd probably buy, cause out of all PC parts, I always do overkill on mobos - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...132929&cm_re=matx_z270-_-13-132-929-_-Product

The one that I'm trying to talk myself out of right now, as I'd need to get an external DAC/Amp to replace my Soundblaster ZxR



That bottom heat sink is removable, and you attach it to NVME drives! Sold me right there.


That's the board I'm looking for my build. Is it available for sale yet?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom