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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I only see the DVI-D there for monitor use, so if you don't mind not using HDMI and whatnot there's that. It seems like a fine budget board otherwise, but I don't follow ASRock.
I found my invoice for my second SSD (a 240gb) and that one was January 2014 so the older one must be at least 2 years older than that.
Edit: Ahhhh I was looking for a Samsung in my emails but actually I just realized that my old SSD that is dying was a Crucial M4 drive from August 2012...
My second drive is a Samsung EVO
Yeah right now I'm thinking about actually going for a 500gb EVO instead of the 1TB Sandisk.
Thanks for the reply
ALLseeingEYE from the other thread mentioned that ASRock can be unreliable so I went with Gigabyte G1 Sniper.
Bloodember
Member
Here you go
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (367.44 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (56.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (153.08 @ Mindfactory)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (122.93 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (176.69 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Toshiba MD03ACA-V 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (134.20 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case (78.58 @ Mindfactory)
Power Supply: be quiet! POWER ZONE 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (114.93 @ Mindfactory)
Total: 1204.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-25 18:47 CET+0100
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/MxPGVY
nikos
Member
Cross posting from the 2017 CES monitor thread, as I just realized this is probably the better place for this.
Been itching to pick up a monitor, so I've been reading about them all day.
Things I'm looking for: 27", 144+hz, G-Sync.
I was about to order the Asus PG278/9Q but held off after reading about QC issues.
My current pick is the Dell S2716DG.
I've been using a 23" Apple Cinema Display for around10 years. These new displays can't possibly be a downgrade in image quality, can they? I'm reading a lot of complaints about TN, but I'm only using this monitor for gaming and will be sitting directly in front of it.
I'm running a 1070, so I'm hoping it will be enough to drive these monitors. From what I understand, G-Sync will help for games that are running below 144fps, which will pretty much be all modern games.
Been itching to pick up a monitor, so I've been reading about them all day.
Things I'm looking for: 27", 144+hz, G-Sync.
I was about to order the Asus PG278/9Q but held off after reading about QC issues.
My current pick is the Dell S2716DG.
I've been using a 23" Apple Cinema Display for around10 years. These new displays can't possibly be a downgrade in image quality, can they? I'm reading a lot of complaints about TN, but I'm only using this monitor for gaming and will be sitting directly in front of it.
I'm running a 1070, so I'm hoping it will be enough to drive these monitors. From what I understand, G-Sync will help for games that are running below 144fps, which will pretty much be all modern games.
1070 is a great 1440p card, you won't get 144fps without turning down some settings in modern games, but it should still be a smooth experience across most games. If you're sitting in front of the monitor, a TN panel is still fine.
Hey Kadey. I know you do a lot a streaming but if you don't mind me asking, do you think you'll need so much storage space? With the 6TB hard drive, how will you be backing up the data in scenario that the drive fails or dies?
If I were you I'd consider changing the motherboard to an Asus Maximus IX Hero ($220 instead of $330):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBHXSP6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
and dropping down to 16gb ram ($140 instead of $265):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...g.skill_ripjaws_v_16gb-_-20-232-217-_-Product
(unless you're really sure you need 32gb, but this seems unlikely unless it's just for future-proofing, but by the time you got to that point I'd be wondering if having a quad-core cpu is an equal bottleneck, a.k.a. probably years from now before you get to that point)
Do you plan to overclock your cpu? (I'm assuming yes since you're considering the $330 motherboard)
If so, you could use the money saved to upgrade to a Noctua NH-D15 ($86 instead of $35): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...=1&cm_re=noctua_nh-d15-_-35-608-045-_-Product
It should allow you to overclock further, or otherwise run the fans at a lower speed for less noise while still getting great temps. It is massive but is compatible with both the Define R5 and the RipJawsV RAM. Another alternative would be a dual-fan All-In-One water cooling unit. (although I personally always prefer pure air cooling)
On the SSD, for most people having an SSD for storage is fast enough and the 1TB 850 EVO is about the cheapest option for a 1TB Samsung drive (and it should be a great & reliable drive for you), but I also just wanted to ask if you considered upgrading your SSD to a 1TB Samsung 960 Evo ($480 instead of $315): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...&cm_re=samsung_960_evo-_-20-147-595-_-Product
Not only will it be faster, but you would also be able to plug it directly into the motherboard and not have to connect any cables to it. However, the 850 evo is still an excellent choice for the price.
Also, last week I bought a Fractal Define R5 & used it in a build for someone, and it's a nice case but in my opinion the stock fans that it comes with are trash (I took them out ASAP lol). Consider buying 3 of these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...r=1&cm_re=noctua_140mm-_-35-608-034-_-Product
The beige/brown would look great with your white case and you'll want 3-pin fans because the fan controller built into the Define R5 is for 3-pin fans. The Noctua's will be reliable and quiet, and even include low noise & ultra noise adapters for even more control over speeds if you want. They're pricey but IMO very worth it over the stock fans. You'll also want 140mm fans not only because they push more air at the same speed than 120mm fans, but it's MUCH easier to mount 140mm fans in the front of the R5 than 120mm fans due to the way the case's mounting holes are.
The cpu, monitors, and power supply are all excellent choices.
For the keyboard, have you considered the Ducky Shine 5 instead? ($149, available in several switch types, personally I like brown switches for both gaming and typing)
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php?keyword=ducky+shine+5
The Corsair is a fine keyboard but Corsair uses non-standard key cap sizes on some of the keys and with the Ducky you'd be able to swap out the keycaps for something custom later on if you wanted down the road, not to mention the keyboard may be a little nicer. Just wanted to at least mention it.
Another thing to consider - have you thought about going with an external blu-ray burner instead of an internal drive? Going with external would allow you to connect it to multiple computers if you wanted, and if you don't use it much then it would be easy to plug it in only whenever you'd need it (even windows comes on a usb drive now). Otherwise, the drive you picked out should be a great drive.
For the gpu, some rumors think March for the next big release but no one knows for sure. I think Q1 (by the end of March) would be a safe bet. Actually, Smokey was just in the same situation as you and chose to go with a GTX 1070 to hold him over until then. (top of this page and 2 pages back)
What do you plan on doing for speakers / headphones and a mouse?
All of the parts you picked out are fine but I just wanted to give you some options to think about.
I'll probably drop down on the motherboard. The one I picked is overkill. Basically parts I'm picking are top tier or close to. I'm expecting to get at least 3-5 years out of everything except the GPU which I usually buy a new one every year. And peripherals every now and then if I get bored of them. Speakers and mice are accounted for.
You can never have enough space. One of my capture sessions alone can be up to 15+ gbs. Now times that by however times I stream or capture and it adds up. I actually have a bunch of external hds, I'm expecting to get an 8TB one for back up purposes.
You think I won't ever need more than 16GBs of ram? I tend to multitask a lot. Like having a game on one monitor and a stream, various browsers, etc up on the other.
All the other recommendations seem good. What's so special about the ducky keyboard compared to the corsair? They look the same.
I think I may go with the 1070 for now since I won't be overly gaming much anyway. Most of the games out now can easily be ran at max settings with it. Whenever the next stuff comes out and If I really need the power I'll go for one.
Ok GAF, looking for some thoughts on the following build..
PC Part Picker: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/WvW7yf
CPU: i5-7600K 3.8ghz
Cooler: Cryorig C7
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270N
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4-3000
SSD: Samsung Evo 500gb
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB
Case: Fractal Design Node 202
PSU: 450w, pre-installed with Node 202 case
Fans: Corsair ML120 x2
Main gaming needs;
1080/60 on Ultra/High - essential
VR - not super urgent, but a real bonus and something I'd probably do if I could with this build
4K - not urgent, a bonus but not a deal breaker
First time I've used PC Part Picker and I'm super impressed with their system for putting together and finding parts, particularly in terms of finding compatibility issues. That said, I'd really appreciate a second pair of eyes from GAF.
The case has been the thing I've spent the most time researching as that dictates a lot of other factors due to the size. It sounds like a challenging build, but it'll be my third so I think I'm ready. Toyed with others but.. couldn't get this one out of my head. There is a version of the same case that comes WITHOUT the 450w PSU if people think that would be preferable.
Thank!
PC Part Picker: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/WvW7yf
CPU: i5-7600K 3.8ghz
Cooler: Cryorig C7
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270N
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4-3000
SSD: Samsung Evo 500gb
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB
Case: Fractal Design Node 202
PSU: 450w, pre-installed with Node 202 case
Fans: Corsair ML120 x2
Main gaming needs;
1080/60 on Ultra/High - essential
VR - not super urgent, but a real bonus and something I'd probably do if I could with this build
4K - not urgent, a bonus but not a deal breaker
First time I've used PC Part Picker and I'm super impressed with their system for putting together and finding parts, particularly in terms of finding compatibility issues. That said, I'd really appreciate a second pair of eyes from GAF.
The case has been the thing I've spent the most time researching as that dictates a lot of other factors due to the size. It sounds like a challenging build, but it'll be my third so I think I'm ready. Toyed with others but.. couldn't get this one out of my head. There is a version of the same case that comes WITHOUT the 450w PSU if people think that would be preferable.
Thank!
Sword Of Doom
Member
If you're going with Noctua fans I suggest their redux line. I've tried a lot of noctua fans and the redux are the only ones I've been really happy with. They're also a more neutral Grey color. That's if you're looking for a 4pin PWM fan. This is a reimagining of their older circular fans that come with some of their older coolers. They're amazingly quiet and don't have that constant faint droning noise I've experienced with their other 140mm fans.
https://m.newegg.com/product/index?itemnumber=9SIAADY4B02907
I also went with 32gb with a recent pc I built. Especially if the core of the system you intend to last 5 yrs.
Edit** here's a link to the 1500rpm version of the fan I intended to post originally
https://m.newegg.com/product/index?itemnumber=9SIA9PV3Z88996
Say I wanted to upgrade to an SSD because hard drives are dumb and slow. Preferably somewhere around the 500gb range maybe. Say I wanted it to be under $200. Is the Samsung 850 EVO still a solid choice? Also how fragile are these things? Like are they prone to malfunction at all? SSDs are pretty new to me and I don't know much about them.
Long HDMI?
HDMI Ethernet extender?
Laptop connected with remote screen sharing?
Steam link would probably be the easiest and most elegant.
This is what I use to connect my projector to PC and PS3/PS4, no issues.
Where do you read the temperature of the M.2?
Bloodember
Member
Yes the 850 is still a solid choice. SSD's are very reliable.
Pagusas
Elden Member
Many have built in temp sensors. Both of mine do. And yes it's normal. A long game of gta5 will shoot mine up to 65c!
I have a amplifier hdmi cord running from my office, through walls and the attic into our theater room to the components. A good electrician can do it without too much wall damage for about $250-$300.
Not at all, though it depends on the CPU and cooling solution, of course. In general though, those numbers are fine for most desktop CPUs. When you hit those torture test temps during gaming is when you should start to worry (and probably clean out the dust, etc.)
So basically I wanna build a "future proof" rig for the 2nd gen of VR headsets or at least be close to that. I want a board that can do SLI, I'm going the i7 route likely, is 4.2 GHz enough? I plan on pairing it with the 1080 and 32gb of RAM and eventually slotting in a second one. What's my best route for Mobo?
Ah OK; well I'm using a mid-range Noctua fan in a Fractal Design Nano S and the computer's literally less than a month old. During gaming it mostly stays around 50-60 at around 30-40% use with sporadic dips to the 30s on temp readers.
A-OK.
Bloodember
Member
What's your budget?
Seconded. Change happens, plan for the future the best you can.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Is there a way to only enable G-Sync for certain games?
For example, I don't want to use G-Sync in CS:GO. I tried capping it at 144hz with G-Sync on but I still get microstutters...unless there's a way to improve performance?
For example, I don't want to use G-Sync in CS:GO. I tried capping it at 144hz with G-Sync on but I still get microstutters...unless there's a way to improve performance?
dcx4610
Member
Yes. Manage 3D Settings under Nvidia Control Panel and then Program Settings tab. You can have individual settings for each game including disabling G-Sync.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Ah I see it, thanks!
Honestly I have so much extra Amazon money at the moment that I am looking to put upwards of 2k into the rig. I plan on doing it in waves and upgrading as I go.
I know that, but basically I want to be prepared for that 2nd gen headset like the vive 2 or w.e. would the proposed rig support something like that?
Celcius
°Temp. member
These are different types of keyboard switches (the microswitches under the keycaps). They have different characteristics when you press them, such as are the keys clicky or quiet, how far down do you press the key before the button press registers, how much force do you have to use, is the motion smooth all the way down or is there a slight bump halfway down, etc...
Have a look at these:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/mechanical-keyboard-guide
http://www.daskeyboard.com/blog/mechanical-keyboard-guide/
http://www.pcgamer.com/best-mechanical-switches-for-gaming/
Cherry is a manufacturer of keyswitches and they make Cherry switches. There are also other brands like Gateron that also make switches, and a Cherry brown switch will feel slightly different than a Gateron brown switch for example. Most mass-market keyboards use Cherry switches.
Also Cherry MX is a type of fitment that a keycap has to a switch (like a philips vs flathead screwdriver for example).
Cherry MX style:
There are alternatives like Alps:
Blues are generally recommended for typing (but make a "click" sound every time you press a key)
Reds are sometimes recommended for FPS games because they're really sensitive (barely have to press the button for it to register)
Browns are generally recommended for gaming (although I think they're excellent for typing as well and they're not "noisy" like blues)
Greens and Clears are "stiff"
There are others as well...
If you see a number like 35g, 45g, etc... this is the "weight" of the switch. The higher the number, the harder you have to press the key for it to register. I use 35g switches at work and sometimes I accidentally press a key just by resting my finger on it lol.
Also fyi, if you were to pull the keycap off of a key on the keyboard, the switch under it would be the color that you've chosen. This way you can tell what kind of switch it is just by visually looking at it. Fyi I personally use a 2013 Corsair K70 with Cherry MX brown switches at home, although I also like Gateron Browns as well. I like Blues too, but only for typing. At work I use a Plum84, which has "topre" switches: https://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_switch
You may be able to go to your local Fry's Electronics or Microcenter and try out a few different boards to see what you like.
You don't need a sound card for just gaming as most people these days are happy with onboard sound. However, I've always used a dedicated sound card in my personal rigs and I'm currently using a Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD. If you listen to music or are really into sound quality then it can be worth it. Otherwise you can definitely get by with just onboard audio these days, or use the digital ouput to a DAC and external audio gear.
ph1l0z0ph3r
Member
Got the first round in. Waiting on 1070 and 7600-K Gpu now!
Celcius
°Temp. member
One reason why I really like Noctua: http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/noctua-offers-free-upgrade-kits-for-amd-ryzen-platform.html
Noctua is offering free upgrade kits for the Ryzen platform. It looks just like when I requested a socket 2011 kit for my NH-D14, all you have to do is provide proof of purchase and they'll ship it to you free.
Noctua is offering free upgrade kits for the Ryzen platform. It looks just like when I requested a socket 2011 kit for my NH-D14, all you have to do is provide proof of purchase and they'll ship it to you free.
StriKeVillain
Banned
It's a beautiful thing.
I'm almost done with my current PC upgrade. I'm just waiting for my Kraken X62 to be delivered tomorrow to compliment my 7700k. Die, high temps. Die.
boybrushdRED
Member
Cherry MX is like the brand of switches, and the colors are the types of switches. Blues are tactile and clicky. Good for typing. Brown is also tactile but not clicky. Its like a middle ground for typing and gaming. I think the popular ones right now for gaming are Cherry MX Red and Cherry MX Speed. No tactile feedback and easy to press.
I owned a Cherry MX Brown, Kaihl Blue (some kind of Chinese knock off of Cherry MX brand), and Cherry MX Speed. My favorite has to be the blue. The cherry MX Speed switches are soft. Its like I'm only resting my fingers on the keys without knowing that I'm already pressing them.
About needing a soundcard, I believe it all depends on your needs and how good your motherboard's soundcard already is. I am a sucker for virtual surround so I use an Asus Xonar DG soundcard. It has a headphone amp (up to 150 ohm impedance headphones), and Dolby Headphone for the virtual surround.
If you have like 7 minutes to spare, here is a good video about "Do you need a soundcard" by Linus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFBvvlebSmw
neurosisxeno
Member
You should switch to Hydro Whey.
opticalmace
Member
I dunno about the q-led, but maybe try only one ram stick. Or maybe you just need to reseat something, hopefully.
I ran a 50 foot HDMI cable underneath my house along with a USB cable for an Xbox controller adapter and a keyboard.
Maiden Voyage
Gold™ Member
I'm thinking about getting a new monitor to replace my cheap Acer. I'm leaning toward either 1440/144hz or 4k/60hz. Does anyone have any recommendations for either that are not the one listed in the OP?
My PC, for those curious:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z97-E ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: PNY XLR8 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card
Case: Antec Three Hundred Illusion ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
Monitor: Acer G226HQLBbd 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor
Keyboard: Corsair Raptor K40 Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse
My PC, for those curious:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z97-E ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: PNY XLR8 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card
Case: Antec Three Hundred Illusion ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
Monitor: Acer G226HQLBbd 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor
Keyboard: Corsair Raptor K40 Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse
Bloodember
Member
Here's a quick build for you. Just add the second 1080 when you want. This is what I would build. Cases are personal preference, get what you want.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($344.49 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.00 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($204.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB STRIX Video Card ($633.79 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX ATX Mid Tower Case ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1981.51
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-26 04:55 EST-0500
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ycffD8
ph1l0z0ph3r
Member
Ordered the final piece to my build with it being Dells S2417DG monitor. Going from a shitty 1080p HP bundled monitor to a 1440p 144hz gsync monitor should be an interesting jump in difference I hope.
My CPU is delided... but I don't think that is the issue outright.
Good news is I managed to get to the OS (typing from the computer now) and flash the BIOS. This seems to have at least enabled me to consistently boot to the OS... however... I still get multiple power cycles when booting (BIOS at stock default settings). I do eventually get to the POST screen and then OS... but something tells me there is still a phantom issue out there (otherwise it would just boot normally). I guess I should just be happy it is working to any degree.
If your old monitor was 60hz then the difference will be bigger than huge.
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