Bloodember
Member
Have you made sure it's not your power supply?
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Have you made sure it's not your power supply?
Pretty sure it isn't that. Power issues are usually very "it works/it totally doesn't work". There is no "clicking" coming from the PSU (indication it is having issues).
It's not ideal, but at least I can boot. Now I just have to keep my computer on as much as possible.
Bloodember
Member
No, that's wrong. Power issues can do a lot of weird shit.. I've had some really weird issues before and it was the power supply all along. Try changing out the power supply.
In the techsupport thread you mention that a support person told you it might be a grounding issue.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=229111131&postcount=9927
Hey guys, I'm looking to build a new PC mostly for playing the new age CRPGs. Basically I just need something good enough to be able to easily handle the newest ones like Tyranny and the upcoming Torment: ToN, and be somewhat "future proof" for these types of games. I know you can't really future proof in general but I figure the tech requirements for these games increases at a much slower rate than most games.
Would something like the GTX 1050 Ti work? That looks to be a good amount of power for the price, a great bang for your buck if you don't need something too high end, so if this is considered overkill that's fine. I guess it'd also be nice to keep open the possibility of playing something like GTA at somewhat high settings with a decent frame rate, but I'm not placing much emphasis on this if I'd have to spend significantly more to step up to a better card vs what I'd need for just CRPGs.
Whatever card I get I'd be looking to get an Intel CPU that will have no chance of holding the card back, but one that isn't an extreme amount beyond what I could possibly need with my GPU (basically just don't want to pay a lot more needlessly if I'll never be utilizing the power). I won't be using any apps that require major CPU power and won't be doing a crazy amount of multitasking (I guess the extent of it would be being able to play a game windowed and browse the Web, have a music player running, etc.)
I don't have a preset budget but figure I won't be paying through the roof here anyway. If you have any suggestions and could point me in the direction of a matching motherboard and memory that'd be great too (I guess just a pair of good, sufficiently fast 4 GB sticks?), but even just advice on the GPU/CPU is appreciated. (There would be no unusual motherboard requirements, just the possibility of an upgrade to a higher end GPU/CPU, four DIMM slots minimum for future memory expansion, etc. I guess standard ATX is fine, but if are there Micro ATX options that could handle the setup just as well with little drawback that'd be amazing, even if I am limited to two DIMM slots or something. I won't be needing a sound card as I'm probably set with the USB DAC/amp I currently have.)
Would something like the GTX 1050 Ti work? That looks to be a good amount of power for the price, a great bang for your buck if you don't need something too high end, so if this is considered overkill that's fine. I guess it'd also be nice to keep open the possibility of playing something like GTA at somewhat high settings with a decent frame rate, but I'm not placing much emphasis on this if I'd have to spend significantly more to step up to a better card vs what I'd need for just CRPGs.
Whatever card I get I'd be looking to get an Intel CPU that will have no chance of holding the card back, but one that isn't an extreme amount beyond what I could possibly need with my GPU (basically just don't want to pay a lot more needlessly if I'll never be utilizing the power). I won't be using any apps that require major CPU power and won't be doing a crazy amount of multitasking (I guess the extent of it would be being able to play a game windowed and browse the Web, have a music player running, etc.)
I don't have a preset budget but figure I won't be paying through the roof here anyway. If you have any suggestions and could point me in the direction of a matching motherboard and memory that'd be great too (I guess just a pair of good, sufficiently fast 4 GB sticks?), but even just advice on the GPU/CPU is appreciated. (There would be no unusual motherboard requirements, just the possibility of an upgrade to a higher end GPU/CPU, four DIMM slots minimum for future memory expansion, etc. I guess standard ATX is fine, but if are there Micro ATX options that could handle the setup just as well with little drawback that'd be amazing, even if I am limited to two DIMM slots or something. I won't be needing a sound card as I'm probably set with the USB DAC/amp I currently have.)
Well right now I am in the OS... so my only "real" issue is the power cycling at boot. I would assume that has something to do with voltages. Probably worth a shot increasing core and input voltage (boot voltage)?
Bloodember
Member
That could still be a power supply issue. You shouldn't have to mess with any of that. Just try a different power supply.
Here's something I quickly put together for you. You can get Windows 10 at play-asia.com for $25.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($232.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.00 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($92.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1119.21
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-26 13:33 EST-0500
I wish I had a spare (my spare Corsair PSU broke). Maybe I can see if my old man's business has a spare computer laying around I can salvage the PSU from. Thanks for the assistance.
Is a I5-7600k still a viable option for a budget build? Can I play anything on its integrated video? I plan to sell my PC to upgrade it this year, but the sell price will only cover the PC without a new GPU. Also, what is a good upgrade from a R9 380 4gb? Would want to play things on High at 50-60 fps on the recent games and upcoming.
Thanks!
Edit: An I5-7600k, not I5-6600k
Thanks!
Edit: An I5-7600k, not I5-6600k
Have you got a pcpartpicker link?
If you can, get a key tester. Brown is good, but you may also like red.
JonnyDBrit
Member
'Still'? The thing just came out, and was never exactly a budget option to begin with.
Otherwise, integrated graphics are still largely a joke, and will only play something like Overwatch on low settings. Overwatch is not exactly a demanding game.
What are your current specs? Feel like it's worth understanding what kind of bar you're wanting to set for an upgrade.
You can RMA a delidded CPU, just get a bit of glue and bobs your uncle. Intel are short of time and have too much money to give a crap
Power cycles sounds like motherboard to me. Potentially PSU, but a PSU issue would manifest with high load in games or stress tests too.
A struggling POST can be a motherboard issue, every gigabyte board I touched had power cycling at startup...
Updated the motherboard bios? Only do it if you can garuntee some level of stability or if you have dual bios.
Done a CMOS reset? Try increasing the ram voltage a little.
Your case came with static pressure fans installed by...default? I'd replace those, but really blower style GPUs get warm regardless. Is what it is.
SLI for all intents and purposes is dead (at the moment). I wouldn't be using it as a basis for a rig.
Depends. On GPU side, yeah. But I built my X79 6 core rig 2+ years ago. It's at 4.5ghz and will be good for years more. Hardly sweats in games and can burn through editing tasks too.
Yep the right strategy is to buy the best single GPU at the time VR 2.0 hits. There is little point in building a SLI capable setup unless you SLI from the get go.
I wouldn't touch SLI at all if I'm building today. It's hard for me to say that given my previous setups, but when I had those it was actively supported and worked (most of the time) on day 1 of major releases. With DX12 putting it on the devs to get it working, and they way current gen engines are built, it's not worth it.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Only reason to have SLI is because you want more performance and you're already rocking a Titan X Pascal. Most people do not have a Titan X Pascal.
Yeah, really the only point is if you have enough money that you don't mind that it won't always work well. It's got less and less useful as time has gone by, especially since overall TDP dropped and people built smaller rigs that don't cater for dual cards. Plus as you say DX12 and all. The market just isn't there now and development is patchy. Personally I would never do it.
I think smokey had maxwell titans in SLI lol.
Sorry, that really came out wrong, hehe, english is not my main language. Im currently with a FX 8320e, 8GBDDR3, 60GB SSD, 1tb HD, and a R9 380, wich I will sell a bit cheaper for a buddy of mine and use the rest of the money to buy a new build.
What I meant was that if an I5-7600k is really a worthwhile investment or if there is a new "big thing" on the horizon, and how well it performs on current games. Sorry for the errors :/
I dont have a TXP. I have a 1070. I had SLI Titans every generation, with my last being Titan X. I sold them for the reasons I listed in the previous posts.
i5 7600 is a huge upgrade from AMD.
No, nothing big on the horizon in terms of CPUs. You might consider AMDs new CPUs which should be close to Intels offerings according to rumours and maybe slightly cheaper.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Huh, go figure.
But yeah, general point remains. I apologise for any bias, but it feels like something that most makes sense if you're up against the absolute ceiling performance wise, where if you're not, you should just bump up to a stronger individual card. The support issues you bring up only strengthen that notion.
Have you and your friend roughly agreed on what they'll pay for the rig? Just to get some sense of what budget you're working with.
Otherwise, I would probably say look more towards the lower end of kabylake, maybe even older skylake stock, so you could squeeze in some money for a GPU.
I understand, thanks a lot. I saw some of the leaks from the new AMD cpus, but the problem is that where I live, since they are "new", they would probably cost two to three times more than they cost in US dollars, wich would make the price advantage of AMD moot. What would be the best choice for a Mid End gpu for the I5-7600k that is an upgrade from a R9 380? And thanks a bunch again!
Edit: To the post above: The price was 2500 R$ (Brazilian Reais) wich would translate roughly to 800$, I guess.
It's like it was poor value before but somewhat justifiable with the reasons you bring, but it's even worse in terms of value today. But if you have buckets of money and really want the "best", then it's the only option.
Much obliged, I'm glad to have a template to work with.
For the past few weeks, I've been having PC problems, including programs not starting/responding, Windows freezing up during startups and shutdowns, and bad framerates in games. Today I found out that my CPU is apparently topping out the hardware monitor at 99C. Could this be causing it? I've shut the computer down and am ordering some new thermal paste, so hopefully that does the trick. My hard drives also seem to be running a bit hot, but they're at more like 50-60C.
SOLVED! Radeon Wattman settings: increase the 'target' fan speed to 4000, and decrease 'target' temperature to 70C. My GPU fan now runs at ~1250RPM (previously ~1100RPM) and my temp never goes over 70C, with noise levels barely compromised. Absurd how these default settings cap fan speed at 20%, regardless of whether GPU is burning to death.
AFAIK static pressure fans are also general purpose fans that come with most cases?
It's probably not clocking up as fast either with a 70c target.
Nyteshade517
Member
I had a really bad CPU overheating issues a few months back...everyday stuff was ok but when I tried to do anything really intensive the performance would go down
changing the faulty cooler and all that fixed the issues I had
For the ASUS GTX 1050 Ti I see three different series - Phoenix, Dual and STRIX. Anybody have a preference/a quick rundown of the differences? Edit: Did a quick lookup and it seems Phoenix will suffice.
Additionally, Bloodember recommended the Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler for a i5-7600k Micro-ATX setup. The cooler goes for about $85, but I see a lot of cheaper cooling options. Do I need this particular cooler for space constraints in a Micro-ATX case, or because I need the cooling it provides vs something cheaper? If something cheaper would get the job done just as well please let me know.
Additionally, Bloodember recommended the Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler for a i5-7600k Micro-ATX setup. The cooler goes for about $85, but I see a lot of cheaper cooling options. Do I need this particular cooler for space constraints in a Micro-ATX case, or because I need the cooling it provides vs something cheaper? If something cheaper would get the job done just as well please let me know.
Bloodember
Member
Any of the 1050's will work just pick the one you like best. As for the cooler, I'm rather picky, you can pick whichever you like just look at reviews and make sure it's good. I'd recommend staying away from the 212 evo the arciac clamping mechanism is a pain in the ass.
Thanks for the warning. I've been there with an almost impossible to deal with attachment mechanism on a cooler a decade ago. Between the tension and having to reach under the heat sink and around the memory it was quite cumbersome.
Here is what I am thinking. What say you PC GAF!?
opticalmace
Member
You should go for kaby lake (7700k, z270). Are you only shopping at amazon? By the way, if you put your build into pcpartpicker it's easy to compare prices and post here, etc.
roger, roger thank you for the advice.
TC McQueen
Member
The Cryorig H7 or H5 Universal are better than the 212 Evo and either are almost identical in price, or about $10 more.
Here's a start:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270P-D3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($110.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($96.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($379.00 @ Jet)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($62.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($7.99 @ Directron)
Total: $1398.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-26 21:39 EST-0500
99% sure this is what I'm going with. Dropped down on the drives so I can get a second rog. That'll benefit me more.
Not listed is some keyboard, mice and external Asus blu ray drive and some other peripherals.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.89 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Black 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($428.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.49 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Not listed is some keyboard, mice and external Asus blu ray drive and some other peripherals.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.89 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Black 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($428.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.49 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Sword Of Doom
Member
That's beautiful. That CPU cooler is huge and bulky but they work really well. Only thing I would remove is the HDD cause I don't think I can ever put a hard drive in my pc again because of how much noise and vibration they add but it's understandable if you need the space. Also good job going with the M.2 960 Evo instead of what you had before.
I was going to suggest going with a Crucial or similar 1TB SSD instead of an SSD and HDD but I couldn't find one at around $200.
Don't know how good the Corsair RMx psu's are. Have you looked into an EVGA? They're priced well and people seem to like them a lot
Nyteshade517
Member
with the Intel 600p drives I know about the issue with what happens when the cache gets full...my question is would downloading a large file (like a game from Steam) cause the issue as well?
that's really the only thing I ever do that involves large files (I don't record videos or other things that would involve huge files)
that's really the only thing I ever do that involves large files (I don't record videos or other things that would involve huge files)
SSD question(s) for you guys.
For gaming, doing large data transfer on occasion, and otherwise casual computer usage, is it pointless to spend more on higher end M.2 drives?
I was just looking at charts of read/write speed comparisons and was wondering where it stops mattering for gaming.
Looking at 500 GB M.2 drives, the Intel 600p seems like a good deal, but I'm wondering if there would be any benefit to getting a Samsung 960 EVO, which seems to obliterate even the previous PRO model (950 PRO).
Here are some read/write comparisons from Anandtech for reference:
Samsung 850 EVO - 500 GB (Still uses SATA III interface from what I understand)
Read: 540 MB/s
Write: 520 MB/s
Intel 600p - 500 GB
Read: 1775 MB/s
Write: 560 MB/s
Samsung 960 EVO - 250 GB
Read: 3200 MB/s
Write: 1500 MB/s
I'd think even the 850 EVO is considered pretty fast. If you're playing the latest PC games on ultra settings would there be any noticeable performance difference in stepping from the 850 EVO to the Intel 600p, or the Intel 600p to the 960 EVO?
I'm thinking of going with the Intel 600p 500 GB model for $169.99, but I could probably live with 250 GB with the Samsung 960 EVO for $129.99 if there is a notable benefit for gaming purposes. I'm sure these crazy leaps in read/write speed have their use, but I'm a little skeptical about it mattering for me.
For gaming, doing large data transfer on occasion, and otherwise casual computer usage, is it pointless to spend more on higher end M.2 drives?
I was just looking at charts of read/write speed comparisons and was wondering where it stops mattering for gaming.
Looking at 500 GB M.2 drives, the Intel 600p seems like a good deal, but I'm wondering if there would be any benefit to getting a Samsung 960 EVO, which seems to obliterate even the previous PRO model (950 PRO).
Here are some read/write comparisons from Anandtech for reference:
Samsung 850 EVO - 500 GB (Still uses SATA III interface from what I understand)
Read: 540 MB/s
Write: 520 MB/s
Intel 600p - 500 GB
Read: 1775 MB/s
Write: 560 MB/s
Samsung 960 EVO - 250 GB
Read: 3200 MB/s
Write: 1500 MB/s
I'd think even the 850 EVO is considered pretty fast. If you're playing the latest PC games on ultra settings would there be any noticeable performance difference in stepping from the 850 EVO to the Intel 600p, or the Intel 600p to the 960 EVO?
I'm thinking of going with the Intel 600p 500 GB model for $169.99, but I could probably live with 250 GB with the Samsung 960 EVO for $129.99 if there is a notable benefit for gaming purposes. I'm sure these crazy leaps in read/write speed have their use, but I'm a little skeptical about it mattering for me.
Speedwagon
Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel. Yabuki turned off voice chat in Mario Kart races. True artists of their time.
I would recommend getting a lighter, cheaper CPU cooler. I had that one and it's huge, heavy, and bulky. I have the 212 EVO which is a fair bit lighter. Zalman CPU coolers are even lighter. Unless you are doing extreme overclocking and have calculated the temp differences and whatnot, it probably isn't worth the extra strain on your mobo (and your wallet).
Bar81
Member
There will be no real world difference between the Samsungs despite the stats so I would expect that same is the case with the Intel. Don't waste your money on the 960. Make sure that whatever you buy has enough room and you always want to leave 10% free on the drive - I've installed like four games and I'm already at 160+GB and all but one of those aren't today's 60GB+ games. I don't think you can get away with anything less than 500GB today, but that's me. If I had to make the call, 500GB EVO would be the choice.
Hyper 212 is entry level - just to silence the rig.
Noctua NH D15 is ultimate air cooling. Silent and the best performance from air.
The H7 is in between but more towards the high end.
You can't beat noctua fans though. That alone makes the D15 good value.
I would switch to matx. Then sell the 1070 for a 1080ti rather than SLI, as per our earlier posts.
If you want a beautiful rig, look at a Lian Li PC 06S or even 05 for mitx.
Infinite Justice
Member
Sounds like it is finally (for air coolers) based on what is being said here but that price though.
Celcius
°Temp. member
I can't speak to the overclocking potential but I installed one in a silent build last week and with a 2600k running at stock and the fan on minimum temps were good (much better than the stock cooler would have been). I wouldn't recommend using a $35 heatsink on an overclocked 6-core cpu though.
Later this year there's an Asus 4K IPS 144hz Gsync 27" monitor coming: http://www.kitguru.net/peripherals/...-is-the-worlds-first-144hz-4k-gaming-monitor/
but that will probably be towards the end of the year if I had to guess. Both the Asus ROG and Acer Predator are well-liked monitors, but I've heard of the Acer predators having a "more-than-necessary" anti-glare coating on the screen that can be noticeable when reading text on a white background. I haven't seen one in person to validate, but if I were going to buy a monitor today I'd get the Asus between the two. My only concern is quality control and the possibility of more backlight bleed then I'm willing to tolerate (I returned two monitors last year due to this), but it would be a risk with any brand.
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