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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Smokey

Member
Nice. You should post up a couple pictures.

My friend also bought a 1070 strix this week. I should ask him how he likes it.

About temp monitoring, I always have MSI Afterburner open, so I can check logs there. I also have an overlay in-game using rivatuner, and occasionally I will boot up RealTemp when I want to do some benchmarking.

Quick cell pics as I finished rearranging stuff and testing the card.

31631257434_7eaeddb28f_b.jpg


32474783395_a4c2b96ebc_b.jpg


I need those clip things to make the PSU cable straight, I'm forgetting what they're called. You can see how long this 1070 is. My Air 540 has a ton of space and it's extending all the way to the ATX PSU cable. It's a really long card.

Nice going on the 1070 over the 1060. You sold both of the maxwell titan X's? (I know you had sold one but I thought you still had one, guess I was out of the loop lol).
As far as CPU temp monitoring, I always use Realtemp and you can grab the latest version here: https://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/real-temp-3-70
For GPU temp monitoring, I like to use EVGA Precision (although MSI afterburner is also good).

Yeah I sold both of them, but at different intervals. After I sold the last one I literally couldn't use my PC, so I disappeared for some months. I tried the console only life during that time and I couldn't really take it anymore.

Switching the orientation of the push/pull configuration combined with new thermal paste is giving me great CPU temps. I'm in the upper 50c area with a 6 core 4930k @ 4.5ghz. the 1070 doesn't break 55c with the modest fan curve I use. I'm used to reference cards because of past SLI setups. We know those blower coolers aren't good, but I'm still very impressed with these results.
 

longdi

Banned
Do M.2 SSDs offer real improvements over SATA for gaming and Windows?

I've been hearing they aren't that good and sometimes even worse. However, everyone in this thread seems to be looking for one. So I'm a little confused.

The only improvement imo is NVME makes everything looks neater! No dangling power and sata cable, all embedded onto the motherboard!
 

Kito

Member
So I just bought an i5 6600k a few weeks ago and it's finally going to arrive in the next few days, but I see the 7600k is out now... should I return the 6600k and get the newer one, or is there not that much difference?

First check that your BIOS supports KabyLake.
 

Vipu

Banned
Im planning already my next PC for when AMD drops their CPU bomb.

So im checking some pieces together for intel build if AMD doesn't deliver.

CPU: Intel Kaby Lake i7-7700K
PSU: EVGA 650W SuperNOVA 650 G2
DDR: 16gb but no idea what kind
MOBO: even more no idea

There is over 1001 different mobos, how do I know what is good for me?
Where should I start to look at?
And memory? Should I just do the basic math for mhz / latency = bigger = better?
 

Megauap

Member
Im planning already my next PC for when AMD drops their CPU bomb.

So im checking some pieces together for intel build if AMD doesn't deliver.

CPU: Intel Kaby Lake i7-7700K
PSU: EVGA 650W SuperNOVA 650 G2
DDR: 16gb but no idea what kind
MOBO: even more no idea

There is over 1001 different mobos, how do I know what is good for me?
Where should I start to look at?
And memory? Should I just do the basic math for mhz / latency = bigger = better?

For the motherboard, you should say which features you need it to have. Like if you need ATX, ITX or others, if you need it to have integrated WiFi, if you need it to be SLI or Crossfire compatible, etc.
 

Kito

Member
There is over 1001 different mobos, how do I know what is good for me?

You want a mobo that supports overclocking and 7th gen for the 7700K i.e. Z270s. You also want one that supports your case size. That's like 10 options...
 
And memory? Should I just do the basic math for mhz / latency = bigger = better?
I recommend this RAM that I've also picked up for my upcoming Ryzen build as a minimum:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...5&cm_re=ddr4_ripjaws_V-_-20-232-175-_-Product

From what I've read, 2666 MHz is the sweet spot for DDR4 RAM speed right now, and it's got really low latency at a decent price point.

Edit: This red SKU is on sale for $95 until next week:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...1&cm_re=PPSSVLADVMMSDZ-_-20-231-892-_-Product
Fuck Newegg's stupid habit of arranging the SKUs by color, not speed. Not going to bother returning the RAM I got just to get the color I like and save ~$4.50.
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
I'm going to start ordering parts next week. This is pretty much what I have finalized. Any recommendations?

As for the GPU, how long before the next big thing drops? If it isn't for like three or four months I'll just go ahead and get a 1080 otherwise I will get a 1070 just for placeholder.


CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($344.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($329.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($264.97 @ Jet)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($315.00 @ Jet)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($269.99 @ Jet)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.49 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-2209 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($73.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus MX27AQ 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($402.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($119.99 @ Best Buy)
 
Guess what Hyper 212 owners, unless you get the latest version, you are FUCKED when Ryzen comes out:
http://www.eteknix.com/cooler-master-announces-amd-ryzen-am4-compatibility-list/
With new CPUs and motherboards released recently in the form of Intel Kaby Lake Z270 and AMD Ryzen AM4, some users are left wondering whether their existing or planned CPU cooler purchase will be compatible. To ease this anxiety, Cooler Master has released a component compatibility chart for their existing air and liquid CPU cooler line. Since Intel Kaby lake is using the same LGA1151 socket size, any CPU cooler compatible with Skylake will be compatible as well so this means every single Cooler Master CPU cooler will be able to fit. Please note that the Kaby Lake i7-7700K runs at particularly high temperatures at stock since they are basically an higher clocked Skylake i7-6700K like the i7-4790K Devil’s Canyon CPUs were to Haswell i7-4770K with some slight upgrades, so many air CPU coolers including some larger ones will not be adequate to cool it.
CM_compatibilitylist1.jpg
 
I'm going to start ordering parts next week. This is pretty much what I have finalized. Any recommendations?

As for the GPU, how long before the next big thing drops? If it isn't for like three or four months I'll just go ahead and get a 1080 otherwise I will get a 1070 just for placeholder.

There's no concrete info on when Vega or the GTX 1080 Ti will be properly announced and/or released. Some are theorising the Ti is being saved for PAX, while Vega may not hit the market until May.
 

DJ_Lae

Member
I've been really happy with my build over the past week, although it has one little issue that's been driving me nuts - the light on the motherboard (ASUS ROG 270E). It was on whenever there was power to the board, whether the PC was on or not.

I sleep in the same room, and the damn thing is incredibly bright. I also like it (when I'm awake and using the computer) but the bios only has settings to enable or disable. I found half a fix by turning on ERP...but it only works on shutdown. In sleep mode, which I used constantly with my previous computer, the light remains on.

Anyone have any ideas, or am I stuck disabling the thing altogether?
 
What are the signs that an SSD is failing? I have a Samsung EVO 840 (MZ-7TE250BW) and whenever I try to use it as my OS drive it will eventually crash after a few days and Windows 10 needs to repair/fails to repair which forces me to wipe it and start anew. I now have Windows running on a smaller SSD I without issue which was leading me to think the drive is borked which sucks since the warranty is expired.
 

kennah

Member
What are the signs that an SSD is failing? I have a Samsung EVO 840 (MZ-7TE250BW) and whenever I try to use it as my OS drive it will eventually crash after a few days and Windows 10 needs to repair/fails to repair which forces me to wipe it and start anew. I now have Windows running on a smaller SSD I without issue which was leading me to think the drive is borked which sucks since the warranty is expired.
Did you do the firmware update? Those drives have a known issue
 

Mistle

Member
Posting on behalf of a friend, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

"My new build refuses to stay in any sort of shut down state and can only be powered down by holding in the power button.
When shutting down it goes through all the motions and gets to what appears to be a 'power off' state with all fans/drives stopped and lights off, then after a few seconds begins to power on again as if the power button has been pushed.

Things I've checked:
-Power supply. Tried connecting a friend's known-working PSU and it made no difference.
-Power/reset button connections from case to motherboard.
-Devices with permission to wake the PC. According to Powercfg there are "none".
-Wake on LAN switched off in BIOS. Magic packets also disabled.
-Updated various drivers, nothing flagged in device manager.
-Wake timers disabled.

PC Build:
-Gigabyte Z170X Designare
-Intel Core i5 7600K
-Cooler Master 750W PSU
-Cooler Master Hyper 212X Heatsink
-16GB Cosair RAM
-Geforce GTX 1050 TI GPU
-NZXT Hue+ Lighting kit with fans"
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
I'm going to start ordering parts next week. This is pretty much what I have finalized. Any recommendations?

As for the GPU, how long before the next big thing drops? If it isn't for like three or four months I'll just go ahead and get a 1080 otherwise I will get a 1070 just for placeholder.


CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($344.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($329.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($264.97 @ Jet)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($315.00 @ Jet)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($269.99 @ Jet)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.49 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-2209 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($73.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus MX27AQ 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($402.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($119.99 @ Best Buy)

Hey Kadey. I know you do a lot a streaming but if you don't mind me asking, do you think you'll need so much storage space? With the 6TB hard drive, how will you be backing up the data in scenario that the drive fails or dies?

If I were you I'd consider changing the motherboard to an Asus Maximus IX Hero ($220 instead of $330):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBHXSP6/?tag=neogaf0e-20

and dropping down to 16gb ram ($140 instead of $265):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...g.skill_ripjaws_v_16gb-_-20-232-217-_-Product
(unless you're really sure you need 32gb, but this seems unlikely unless it's just for future-proofing, but by the time you got to that point I'd be wondering if having a quad-core cpu is an equal bottleneck, a.k.a. probably years from now before you get to that point)

Do you plan to overclock your cpu? (I'm assuming yes since you're considering the $330 motherboard)
If so, you could use the money saved to upgrade to a Noctua NH-D15 ($86 instead of $35): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...=1&cm_re=noctua_nh-d15-_-35-608-045-_-Product
It should allow you to overclock further, or otherwise run the fans at a lower speed for less noise while still getting great temps. It is massive but is compatible with both the Define R5 and the RipJawsV RAM. Another alternative would be a dual-fan All-In-One water cooling unit. (although I personally always prefer pure air cooling)

On the SSD, for most people having an SSD for storage is fast enough and the 1TB 850 EVO is about the cheapest option for a 1TB Samsung drive (and it should be a great & reliable drive for you), but I also just wanted to ask if you considered upgrading your SSD to a 1TB Samsung 960 Evo ($480 instead of $315): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...&cm_re=samsung_960_evo-_-20-147-595-_-Product
Not only will it be faster, but you would also be able to plug it directly into the motherboard and not have to connect any cables to it. However, the 850 evo is still an excellent choice for the price.

Also, last week I bought a Fractal Define R5 & used it in a build for someone, and it's a nice case but in my opinion the stock fans that it comes with are trash (I took them out ASAP lol). Consider buying 3 of these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...r=1&cm_re=noctua_140mm-_-35-608-034-_-Product
The beige/brown would look great with your white case and you'll want 3-pin fans because the fan controller built into the Define R5 is for 3-pin fans. The Noctua's will be reliable and quiet, and even include low noise & ultra noise adapters for even more control over speeds if you want. They're pricey but IMO very worth it over the stock fans. You'll also want 140mm fans not only because they push more air at the same speed than 120mm fans, but it's MUCH easier to mount 140mm fans in the front of the R5 than 120mm fans due to the way the case's mounting holes are.

The cpu, monitors, and power supply are all excellent choices.

For the keyboard, have you considered the Ducky Shine 5 instead? ($149, available in several switch types, personally I like brown switches for both gaming and typing)
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php?keyword=ducky+shine+5
The Corsair is a fine keyboard but Corsair uses non-standard key cap sizes on some of the keys and with the Ducky you'd be able to swap out the keycaps for something custom later on if you wanted down the road, not to mention the keyboard may be a little nicer. Just wanted to at least mention it.

Another thing to consider - have you thought about going with an external blu-ray burner instead of an internal drive? Going with external would allow you to connect it to multiple computers if you wanted, and if you don't use it much then it would be easy to plug it in only whenever you'd need it (even windows comes on a usb drive now). Otherwise, the drive you picked out should be a great drive.

For the gpu, some rumors think March for the next big release but no one knows for sure. I think Q1 (by the end of March) would be a safe bet. Actually, Smokey was just in the same situation as you and chose to go with a GTX 1070 to hold him over until then. (top of this page and 2 pages back)

What do you plan on doing for speakers / headphones and a mouse?
All of the parts you picked out are fine but I just wanted to give you some options to think about. :)
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Posting on behalf of a friend, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

"My new build refuses to stay in any sort of shut down state and can only be powered down by holding in the power button.
When shutting down it goes through all the motions and gets to what appears to be a 'power off' state with all fans/drives stopped and lights off, then after a few seconds begins to power on again as if the power button has been pushed.

Things I've checked:
-Power supply. Tried connecting a friend's known-working PSU and it made no difference.
-Power/reset button connections from case to motherboard.
-Devices with permission to wake the PC. According to Powercfg there are "none".
-Wake on LAN switched off in BIOS. Magic packets also disabled.
-Updated various drivers, nothing flagged in device manager.
-Wake timers disabled.

PC Build:
-Gigabyte Z170X Designare
-Intel Core i5 7600K
-Cooler Master 750W PSU
-Cooler Master Hyper 212X Heatsink
-16GB Cosair RAM
-Geforce GTX 1050 TI GPU
-NZXT Hue+ Lighting kit with fans"

Have you tried updating the motherboard to the latest bios available? What about disconnecting all front panel connections from the motherboard and booting by pressing the power switch directly on the motherboard, then powering down from within windows?
 
Is it common for Chrome to hang so much on PC? I only have 8GB of RAM in my system but damn I can't even have 6 tabs open without it hanging on me once every 20~ minutes
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Is it common for Chrome to hang so much on PC? I only have 8GB of RAM in my system but damn I can't even have 6 tabs open without it hanging on me once every 20~ minutes

That's definitely not normal. When it hangs do you have to kill chrome using the task manager or does your computer freeze up and then you have to reboot it?
 

remz

Member
Posting on behalf of a friend, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

"My new build refuses to stay in any sort of shut down state and can only be powered down by holding in the power button.
When shutting down it goes through all the motions and gets to what appears to be a 'power off' state with all fans/drives stopped and lights off, then after a few seconds begins to power on again as if the power button has been pushed.

Things I've checked:
-Power supply. Tried connecting a friend's known-working PSU and it made no difference.
-Power/reset button connections from case to motherboard.
-Devices with permission to wake the PC. According to Powercfg there are "none".
-Wake on LAN switched off in BIOS. Magic packets also disabled.
-Updated various drivers, nothing flagged in device manager.
-Wake timers disabled.

PC Build:
-Gigabyte Z170X Designare
-Intel Core i5 7600K
-Cooler Master 750W PSU
-Cooler Master Hyper 212X Heatsink
-16GB Cosair RAM
-Geforce GTX 1050 TI GPU
-NZXT Hue+ Lighting kit with fans"
sounds like something might be waking it over usb, or LAN but if it's switched off dunno. usually when this happens to me its because a mouse moved.
 
Im looking to upgrade my PC for the second time. It's probably about 3 years old, and the only thing that has ever been upgraded is the GPU (went from a 770 to a 970). Im really not sure what would be the best to upgrade first so I figured I would let Neogaf's best tell me what to do



Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)

my CPU is: intel core i5-4570 @ 3.20

RAM: 8 gigs (I dont know how fast or what brand it is. I've never had an issue with RAM though.)

Motherboard: I dont know specifally. I just know it doesnt work with DDR4 memory or the newer intel chips

GPU: Stock 970 w/ 3.5 gigs of dedicated memory

PSU: I dont know specifally. I know its 800 watts (or whatever)

Case: Just a generic black case

HDD: 1 TB


Budget: Price Range + Country

Country: United States

Price Range: 600


Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).

My main uses is gaming. I want to continue to play every game at 1080/60. If I could also play games in 4K at a reasonable frame rate that would be cool too

I also use my PC for school. However, Im a social science major and my work doesnt require high end PC parts

Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?

My monitor resoultion is 1080. I plan on upgrading to 4k as soon as I have a reason to (I.E. my hardware is capable of running games at 4k)


List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 144? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?

30 FPS is acceptable only if the port is bad.

I dont really know how great phys/ super sampling/cuda is. I've been getting along just fine without knowing so I guess its not that important

Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750TX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?


yeah, Im primarily either looking to upgrade my CPU along with a new motherboard and new ram, or putting the entire 600 into a 1080


Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)

YES! My i5 is not unlocked and that decision has plagued me ever since
 

Lulubop

Member
I can't active Windows 10 after changing my hardware. Did I have to make a MS account when I upgraded from 7? I don't remember.
 

Mistle

Member
Have you tried updating the motherboard to the latest bios available? What about disconnecting all front panel connections from the motherboard and booting by pressing the power switch directly on the motherboard, then powering down from within windows?
BIOS is latest. We'll try removing front panel connectors now and report back. Thanks!
EDIT: dang, didn't work

sounds like something might be waking it over usb, or LAN but if it's switched off dunno. usually when this happens to me its because a mouse moved.
tried taking all peripherals out and it still happens, also disabled as much as we could in device manager from allowing PC wake
 

kuYuri

Member
I can't active Windows 10 after changing my hardware. Did I have to make a MS account when I upgraded from 7? I don't remember.

No you don't have too, though technically if you've ever had an Xbox Live account or used Outlook/Hotmail, etc. you already have a MS account and can tie the license to it if you want.

If you changed motherboards, you could try calling MS support, let them know you changed motherboards so that they can re-activate it for you on their end.
 

Lulubop

Member
Yea, I thought maybe if I tied an old account to my last motherboard it'd work so I tried my Skype account. It didn't work tho, so I'm stuck calling I guess.

What's the number to call?
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
It just freezes and unfreezes within 10 seconds usually
hmm, how long has it been since you installed Windows? Do any other programs (like Firefox for example) freeze like this?
If not, I'd try to uninstall and re-install chrome. I would also take a look in your task manager and see what other processes are running when it freezes up. You'll also be able to see how much memory is used and how much is free.
If other programs also freeze then I'd take a look at my hardware, like the S.M.A.R.T. readings on your storage drive for example, as well as make sure the pc can successfully run stress benchmarks like prime95 or realbench. (and if you're running on a hard drive instead of a solid state drive, try to defragment it)
Did this only start happening recently or has it been happening for a while? As a last-ditch resort you could try doing a clean install of windows.

BIOS is latest. We'll try removing front panel connectors now and report back. Thanks!
EDIT: dang, didn't work

tried taking all peripherals out and it still happens, also disabled as much as we could in device manager from allowing PC wake

Have you tried going into the bios and selecting the option "load optimized defaults", which sets all options back to factory and then trying it? Is your machine overclocked?
I guess it's also possible the motherboard could be defective...
One other thought... is your computer plugged directly into the wall, or into a surge protector? If it is plugged into a surge protector you may want to try plugging directly into the wall, or even a different outlet.
Have you tried to see if it does this when the computer is outside of it's case, just sitting on top of the motherboard box?
 

luffeN

Member
hey guys!

I have two 144hz 1080p monitors and would like to buy a new graphics card. The monitors have free-sync. Is there a concrete release date for Vega GPUs? Ideally, I would like to buy the new GPU within two weeks. Which one should I go for? I don't play all the latest games but would like to hit a high framerate without sacrificing too much detail. My "newest" game is The Witcher 3. I play LoL and Overwatch regularly and games like the Witcher or Diablo from time to time.

I don't know anything about the current AMD GPUs. What are equivalents to the 1060 and 1070? Would a 1060 level card be enough for 120 hz 1080p Overwatch on high for example?

The PC I currently use has an i7-2600k and I would like to build a new PC within the next month. I am wondering if a 1070 is more future proof for my scenario than a 1060.
 

SpacLock

Member
On top of the motherboard box is the purest case there is.

And I took your advice!

I installed the RAM, CPU, and applied thermal paste + cooler while waiting for my case.

After my case finally arrived, I went through the steps and finished my first ever PC build.

When it was time to turn it on I was super pessimistic, and I thought for certain there would be at least one thing I forgot, attached in the wrong place, or maybe I didn't apply my cooler to my CPU correctly. So I hit the power button and waited to see what type of error I would have to remediate. But nope, everything starts spinning and lighting up, my monitor flicks on and the bios begins to boot. Omg, like a little kid again.

Holy shit the SSD! It's black magic.

Everything is so fast and quiet!

I waited way to long to do this. I had a friend help me through the build over Skype, and you guys helped with some component changes, and I'm very happy with the end result.

Keep in mind this is my first ever gaming PC. I've been Nintendo / Xbox exclusive recently, along with PS the previous gens. I had an iMac before this, and a surface pro 3 (i3), so nothing I could really explore gaming on outside of consoles.

I don't even know what to do now. I never expected this to all fall into place and just work. I just woke up one day, opened this thread, and started asking you all questions. Two days later and my order is sent out.

Where do I go from here? I installed all of my drivers, and I believe the system is ready. Installing Steam would probably be a wise next step?

I need to get RE7!

This is crazy.
 

Bloodember

Member
hey guys!

I have two 144hz 1080p monitors and would like to buy a new graphics card. The monitors have free-sync. Is there a concrete release date for Vega GPUs? Ideally, I would like to buy the new GPU within two weeks. Which one should I go for? I don't play all the latest games but would like to hit a high framerate without sacrificing too much detail. My "newest" game is The Witcher 3. I play LoL and Overwatch regularly and games like the Witcher or Diablo from time to time.

I don't know anything about the current AMD GPUs. What are equivalents to the 1060 and 1070? Would a 1060 level card be enough for 120 hz 1080p Overwatch on high for example?

The PC I currently use has an i7-2600k and I would like to build a new PC within the next month. I am wondering if a 1070 is more future proof for my scenario than a 1060.
AMD doesn't have anything that is equivalent to the 1070 or above. What you want is the Radeon RX 480 which is the equivalent to the 1060.

As for Vega, AMD hasn't said when it is coming out, rumors state March to May.
 

luffeN

Member
AMD doesn't have anything that is equivalent to the 1070 or above. What you want is the Radeon RX 480 which is the equivalent to the 1060.

As for Vega, AMD hasn't said when it is coming out, rumors state March to May.

Thank you!

Looking at some GPU comparisons, the 480 is still weaker than the 1060 in some areas.
 

masterkajo

Member
hey guys!

I have two 144hz 1080p monitors and would like to buy a new graphics card. The monitors have free-sync. Is there a concrete release date for Vega GPUs? Ideally, I would like to buy the new GPU within two weeks. Which one should I go for? I don't play all the latest games but would like to hit a high framerate without sacrificing too much detail. My "newest" game is The Witcher 3. I play LoL and Overwatch regularly and games like the Witcher or Diablo from time to time.

I don't know anything about the current AMD GPUs. What are equivalents to the 1060 and 1070? Would a 1060 level card be enough for 120 hz 1080p Overwatch on high for example?

The PC I currently use has an i7-2600k and I would like to build a new PC within the next month. I am wondering if a 1070 is more future proof for my scenario than a 1060.

If you have to buy at this very moment I would go for a Rx480. It is AMDs equivalent of the Gtx1060. The reasons I would go for AMD is that you have freesync monitors. With Nvidia you won't be able to utilise the freesync of your monitors.

Vega will be hitting around summer. So you could wait until then if you want.
Thank you!

Looking at some GPU comparisons, the 480 is still weaker then the 1060 in some areas.
Yeah mostly in DX11. DX12 und Vulkan the rx 480 beats the 1060.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Oh wait. No I'm not lol. Yea I'd have to buy an upgrade kit. Well I have a 5820k anyway. Not upgrading for a while.

How much do you think they will charge for some brackets?

I have a Noctua NH-D14 and when I asked Noctua for the new socket 2011 bracket package, all I had to do was provide proof of purchase for my cooler and they sent me the new bracket & necessary mounting hardware for free. I don't know if Cooler Master is as generous though.
 
I have a Hyper 212 X.
You and I have to see if we can buy the MasterAir Pro 4 upgrade kit. If not, we might want to switch to Cryorig - I contacted them, asking if they were going to announce AM4 compatibility (they are) and all their coolers are upgradeable (which is great, b/c the offset fin stack & better mounting system make me consider switching over).

 
hmm, how long has it been since you installed Windows? Do any other programs (like Firefox for example) freeze like this?
If not, I'd try to uninstall and re-install chrome. I would also take a look in your task manager and see what other processes are running when it freezes up. You'll also be able to see how much memory is used and how much is free.
If other programs also freeze then I'd take a look at my hardware, like the S.M.A.R.T. readings on your storage drive for example, as well as make sure the pc can successfully run stress benchmarks like prime95 or realbench. (and if you're running on a hard drive instead of a solid state drive, try to defragment it)
Did this only start happening recently or has it been happening for a while? As a last-ditch resort you could try doing a clean install of windows.

I did a fresh install a few months ago. There's not a lot on the computer and it seems like Chrome is the only program that locks up like this. I barely use my PC so I've kind of just ignored it for a while.

I reinstalled Chrome so hopefully it'll fix it self
 

luffeN

Member
Hi again!

It seems that the new PC needs to be bought sooner rather than later.

Budget: 1700 Euro
Gaming: Very important
Country: Germany/Austria
GPU: Radeon RX 480 (needs to be factored in)
Monitors: iiyama 27 inch freesync Red Eagle 1920x1080 (2x) (already bought)
Games currently playing: LoL, Overwatch, Witcher 3

What PC can be bought when I want to have a Kaby Lake setup for 1080p high/ultra gaming?

Needed: CPU, Motherboard, SSD, HDD (2TB), reliable/fully modular PSU (750W? needs to live long), case (Fractal for silent PC?), easy to install CPU cooler for moderate overclocking.

I think that's it. I already have Win 10.

If you need more information, please ask. Thank you all!
 

Thraktor

Member
Im looking to upgrade my PC for the second time. It's probably about 3 years old, and the only thing that has ever been upgraded is the GPU (went from a 770 to a 970). Im really not sure what would be the best to upgrade first so I figured I would let Neogaf's best tell me what to do



Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)

my CPU is: intel core i5-4570 @ 3.20

RAM: 8 gigs (I dont know how fast or what brand it is. I've never had an issue with RAM though.)

Motherboard: I dont know specifally. I just know it doesnt work with DDR4 memory or the newer intel chips

GPU: Stock 970 w/ 3.5 gigs of dedicated memory

PSU: I dont know specifally. I know its 800 watts (or whatever)

Case: Just a generic black case

HDD: 1 TB


Budget: Price Range + Country

Country: United States

Price Range: 600


Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).

My main uses is gaming. I want to continue to play every game at 1080/60. If I could also play games in 4K at a reasonable frame rate that would be cool too

I also use my PC for school. However, Im a social science major and my work doesnt require high end PC parts

Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?

My monitor resoultion is 1080. I plan on upgrading to 4k as soon as I have a reason to (I.E. my hardware is capable of running games at 4k)


List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 144? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?

30 FPS is acceptable only if the port is bad.

I dont really know how great phys/ super sampling/cuda is. I've been getting along just fine without knowing so I guess its not that important

Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750TX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?


yeah, Im primarily either looking to upgrade my CPU along with a new motherboard and new ram, or putting the entire 600 into a 1080


Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)

YES! My i5 is not unlocked and that decision has plagued me ever since

Could you find out the model number of your motherboard? Specifically to find out if it uses a Z97 chipset, as then you'd be able to upgrade to (and overclock) a 4770K or 4790K. An overclocked 4770K (or 4790K, they're identical except for slightly better overclocking headroom on the latter) shouldn't have any problem running any current game at 60fps+, and should keep you going for a few more years. More importantly, though, it would be quite a bit cheaper than upgrading to Kaby Lake, as you wouldn't need to buy a new motherboard or new RAM. You could then put that money towards a better graphics card or new monitor.

On the graphics card front, I'd recommend sticking with the GTX 970 for a little bit longer if you're currently using a 1080p monitor and want to upgrade to 4K. In a few months we'll have AMD's new Vega cards, the GTX1080Ti and possibly price drops for the GTX1080, so you'll have more (and cheaper) options for 4K-capable GPUs. It would also give you time to save up a bit for a 4K monitor to buy at the same time, because to be honest something like a GTX1080 is completely wasted on a 1080p/60Hz screen, and you could almost certainly save money by sticking with the 970 (which should still do well at 1080p) for the time being and wait on buying a new GPU until you have a monitor which would make it worthwhile.
 

BadWolf

Member
Could really use some quick help.

I ended up sending the custom PC I had NCIX build back to them since it was pretty much DOA. After a month they got back to me saying that it's a faulty motherboard and they want to replace it but the previous motherboard is out of stock and they are asking if it is okay to put in an alternative.

This was the previous one: http://www.ncix.com/detail/gigabyte-motherboard-ga-h170-gaming-3-core-b6-126202.htm

This is the alternative they suggested: http://www.ncix.com/detail/asrock-h170a-x1-3-1-intel-skylake-1151-9b-122243.htm

Is that alternative okay to go for? If not then a suggestion for another would be very appreciated (I don't know anything about motherboards).
 
I just finished up a sweet mini itx build using m.2 as my boot drive. Everything works great but my m.2 gets super hot when I have it on for a while. It will get up around 57 C while everything else stays in the mid 30s. Is that normal since it's mounted on the back of the motherboard and given the small form factor?
 

Bloodember

Member
Are these legit keys or some pirated keys?
Getting cheap keys have pretty high chance being just pirated keys and you will run in problems sometime in future.
Yes, they are legit.

I just finished up a sweet mini itx build using m.2 as my boot drive. Everything works great but my m.2 gets super hot when I have it on for a while. It will get up around 57 C while everything else stays in the mid 30s. Is that normal since it's mounted on the back of the motherboard and given the small form factor?

The temps are fine for the m.2.
 
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