Yea, I can do that. The problem is that every so often it will no longer detect the card. It's a weird GPU - Mobo - Case three way issue.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
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Yea, I can do that. The problem is that every so often it will no longer detect the card. It's a weird GPU - Mobo - Case three way issue.
Servbot #42
Unconfirmed Member
It's probably the ram if memtest showed errors, also try installing windows on the SDD, your mechanical drive may be defective. Also if your motherboard doesn't support the ram speed it will lower its speed so that is probably why it displays like that, maybe. Good luck.
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
make sure the motherboard is fully updated. get the latest BIOS and drivers. buy new RAM sticks if possible. upgrade to windows 10. do a completely clean install.
DDR3 will default to 1333 no matter the advertised speed. you need to correctly set it in the BIOS. my sticks were 1600 but were running 1333. my ddr4 sticks run 2133 but they can do 3200. also check the fastest speed your motherboard supports.
that should do it. if it still causes problems then probably might as well build a new PC.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
So, who wants to share pics of their setup?
My modest corner:
My modest corner:
could be ram or motherboard issue.
i would check first that all the other ram settings are properly set in the bios, then make sure there isn't a temperature problem at the spot where the ram is (it doesn't happen often but i had that happen to me recently). Then i would test each stick individually by removing the other stick and at different slots depending on the results.
FeedMeAStrayCat
Member
I appreciate the help! I shall mess around with the RAM tomorrow. 
Oh and, I did have Windows installed on the SSD initially when I first setup the system. When I was doing the reformats trying to get things back to normal, I flip flopped installs between the two hard drives several times. Same issues with both. So I'm assuming it's not a hard drive issue?
Oh and, I did have Windows installed on the SSD initially when I first setup the system. When I was doing the reformats trying to get things back to normal, I flip flopped installs between the two hard drives several times. Same issues with both. So I'm assuming it's not a hard drive issue?
Anyone has Hp Omen 32?
Does it have same bad ghosting on grey to black as every benq VA panel does? like this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5g97urWo-u4
Every VA panel has some level of ghosting, it's just about how much and whether it's acceptable with how they've implemented their overdrive. I haven't found much on this monitor or the panel used.
Does it have same bad ghosting on grey to black as every benq VA panel does? like this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5g97urWo-u4
Every VA panel has some level of ghosting, it's just about how much and whether it's acceptable with how they've implemented their overdrive. I haven't found much on this monitor or the panel used.
My 1600mhz RAM run at 1600 out of the box, no tweaking in the bios required. I think it might be their specific motherboard running it at those speeds.
Gsak
Member
Hey guys need your help. This is my current PC build:
CPU
Intel Core i7 4790 @ 3.60GHz
Haswell 22nm
16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 1066MHz (11-11-11-27)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. Z97-A (SOCKET 1150) 2
Graphics
3071MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 (ASUStek Computer Inc)
Power Supply
Corsair RM 750
Now, I'm gonna upgrade to 1080Ti and 32GB ram. I also want a 4k monitor for gaming as well for my PS4 Pro.
So, can you help me with some suggestions for the best choices out there for monitor and RAM?
CPU
Intel Core i7 4790 @ 3.60GHz
Haswell 22nm
16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 1066MHz (11-11-11-27)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. Z97-A (SOCKET 1150) 2
Graphics
3071MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 (ASUStek Computer Inc)
Power Supply
Corsair RM 750
Now, I'm gonna upgrade to 1080Ti and 32GB ram. I also want a 4k monitor for gaming as well for my PS4 Pro.
So, can you help me with some suggestions for the best choices out there for monitor and RAM?
Thanks I was leaning in that direction. Will go with 1440p then. I'll probably buy a 4K non-Gsync monitor down the line for movies.
Do you want G-Sync AND 144hz as well? If not. You have quite a few options for 4K monitors.
Gsak
Member
Well if there is a choice to have it all sure. Otherwise, what would you suggest for a monitor which will be used for both PC gaming and PS4 Pro?
Well Asus and Acer just announced their new 4K 144hz G-Sync Monitor with HDR. But I assume this will cost at least $1000 USD. Probably closer to $1500. Those two monitors will be out some time during Q2 this year.
Now if you don't care to have the latest and greatest.
If GSYNC isn't something you care about then the Acer286HK is pretty good.
If you want GSYNC at 60hz then the Acer XB321HK or the Asus PG27AQ are your best bet.
Q3-4 & 2000$
Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Edition 10
CPU: 6950X
GPU: Titan X Pascal
Ram: Corsair Dominator Platinum Special Edition (Black Out Edition) With Blue Light Bars
Other: EK MonoBlock for Motherboard (It's been Painted, Since I didn't like the silver)
Other: AquaComputer M.2 Waterblock (Nickel Plated)
On-Going Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/...e-labs-thw10-x99-watercooled-i7-6950x-titan-x
I'm following your build over at OCN. Can't wait to see end result. So the RVE10 is the natural successor to my Rampage IV Black Edition? I'm assuming they won't be coming with a BE this late into the game.
If you want 4k, I'd rather just buy a 40" 4k TV than some 60Hz 27" inch awful looking TN panel that are not even cheap. It's not worth it, you want a big screen for 4k, 40" is fine for a monitor, specially if he's using console with it too.
samsung 40KU7000 with wide color gamut and 10bit panel for $600. Makes a good monitor for multi media use with a VA panel. You can get something smaller and cheap for browsing and else next to it. It's still too expensive for what it is but when it becomes cheaper it's a good buy. Bigger than this size is too big...
samsung 40KU7000 with wide color gamut and 10bit panel for $600. Makes a good monitor for multi media use with a VA panel. You can get something smaller and cheap for browsing and else next to it. It's still too expensive for what it is but when it becomes cheaper it's a good buy. Bigger than this size is too big...
Holy shit. well never mind at that price. I'll just stick with 1440p monitor for $700.
Here is mine:
Only upgrade I want to do at the moment is upgrade my GPU to a Titan Volta whenever that comes out.
The Rampage V Edition 10 is basically the black edition when you have all the RGB shit turned off.
Here is mine:
Only upgrade I want to do at the moment is upgrade my GPU to a Titan Volta whenever that comes out.
The Rampage V Edition 10 is basically the black edition when you have all the RGB shit turned off.
What case is that, and what radiator is that in the bottom?
Here is my case:
https://xforma.com
I can't recommend it enough, best case I've ever used though the price is steep at $1,200, pictures don't do it justice.. i still catch my self admiring it and plan to use it for many builds in the future. Everything in my build is EK, bottom rad is their 480 one.
Atraveller
Banned
M.2 slots have different lengths, and could go through either PCI-E or SATA. You need to check your MB manual and make your purchase decision accordingly.Übermatik;231888941 said:
Have any more pics of your build? First I've heard of that case.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Bloodember
Member
I doubt the case has anything to do with it. Sounds like the Mobo just stops seeing the GPU. Most likely the PCIE on the Mobo is faulty.
Bloodember
Member
Here's mine from a few months ago. I've cleaned it up some more since then. The controllers and Wacom tablet are not on stands that I printed and the USB drives are in a little case with pull out drawers that I also printed. Lastly the headphones hang on hangers on the end of the desk (printed also).
Oops double post.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
So, some questions about my overclock. I've run into a stumbling block. I'm able to get 4.7Ghz stable. My settings in the bios are as follows (see attached pics) as are the results (as posted above).
First and foremost, can anyone give me tips on what I might be doing wrong or what I might be able to do better? I want the best possible daily driver OC I can possibly muster.
A few specific questions I have, VID (not exactly sure what IA is) both read 1.415/1.423. In the UEFI I have it set to adaptive 1.380 with a +0.010 offset. I've found this is where I can achieve stability. I know HWMonitor is reporting higher voltages probably has something to do with the fact that I'm using adaptive and also where I put the CPU LLC level. This seems like an awfully high voltage, from what I've heard you really don't want to go much over 1.4V. But look at my temps. I might need a high voltage to achieve a stable 4.7Ghz but my temps top out at ~65°C after several hours in AIDA64. Even less in the x264 stress test. And only slightly higher in Realbench which is also pushing the GPU (in an ITX case w/ a non-blower cooler).
This makes me feel like I've got headroom to push even farther. So I bumped up my voltage to 1.400V and kept adaptive +.010V and set the clock to 4.8Ghz. Aida64 stops the test about 45 minutes into the stress test so these voltages are not stable. My max temps at 45 minutes (on air, Noctua NH-D15) maxed out at around 68°C. In HWMonitor the VID was at around VID 1.445V and IA 1.455V. This seems REALLY high and yet here I am sitting at 68°C. I'm raising the voltage but not getting hit too hard on temps but at this voltage I feel like it's unsafe to push it any further to achieve a stable 4.8Ghz. 4.9 or higher seems absolutely out of the question as it seems I need rather high voltages even for modest overclocks on this CPU.
But maybe that's where my other settings are coming into play. Maybe I'm borking something up. I dunno. Can someone help with a few of these points?
For reference:
i7-6700K
Asus Z170I Gaming
16GB Corsair DDR4 3000Mhz
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
First and foremost, can anyone give me tips on what I might be doing wrong or what I might be able to do better? I want the best possible daily driver OC I can possibly muster.
A few specific questions I have, VID (not exactly sure what IA is) both read 1.415/1.423. In the UEFI I have it set to adaptive 1.380 with a +0.010 offset. I've found this is where I can achieve stability. I know HWMonitor is reporting higher voltages probably has something to do with the fact that I'm using adaptive and also where I put the CPU LLC level. This seems like an awfully high voltage, from what I've heard you really don't want to go much over 1.4V. But look at my temps. I might need a high voltage to achieve a stable 4.7Ghz but my temps top out at ~65°C after several hours in AIDA64. Even less in the x264 stress test. And only slightly higher in Realbench which is also pushing the GPU (in an ITX case w/ a non-blower cooler).
This makes me feel like I've got headroom to push even farther. So I bumped up my voltage to 1.400V and kept adaptive +.010V and set the clock to 4.8Ghz. Aida64 stops the test about 45 minutes into the stress test so these voltages are not stable. My max temps at 45 minutes (on air, Noctua NH-D15) maxed out at around 68°C. In HWMonitor the VID was at around VID 1.445V and IA 1.455V. This seems REALLY high and yet here I am sitting at 68°C. I'm raising the voltage but not getting hit too hard on temps but at this voltage I feel like it's unsafe to push it any further to achieve a stable 4.8Ghz. 4.9 or higher seems absolutely out of the question as it seems I need rather high voltages even for modest overclocks on this CPU.
But maybe that's where my other settings are coming into play. Maybe I'm borking something up. I dunno. Can someone help with a few of these points?
For reference:
i7-6700K
Asus Z170I Gaming
16GB Corsair DDR4 3000Mhz
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
Current setup minus some things not pictured, like PS4 and another monitor.
New setup in two to four weeks.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Current setup minus some things not pictured, like PS4 and another monitor.
New setup in two to four weeks.
Ayyy! I thought I was the only grill 'round these parts. *fist bump*
Your case reminds makes me wish I'd have gone with the white version of this same case. But then I'd have had to invest in other more expensive bits to make everything match. Not that it matters I guess, since you can't see through the window since it's sitting in a cubby. :[
Still...
Stop looking at VID, that's the requested vcore.
You want to look at Vcore, that's the actual supplied vcore.
Looking at the HWmonitor screenshot, vcore reading looks bugged. Use CPUz to monitor it. I hate HWmonitor cos it polls so many sensors.
Your bios settings look good.
Most people on Asus use LLC L5.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
2.816V max seems unlikely to be real. Same with the mainboard temp at over 100°C and never really changes regardless of any setting. I feel like that's something that's just broken in HWMonitor. Either that or I'm looking at stuff wrong.
See my edit
Seeing those very high stuck temps in HWmonitor is something normal too, just ignore.
And 2.8v = instant chip death lol.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
See my edit
Ahh, I see. CPUID seems to show it spiking at 1.408 V, spending the majority of time at 1.392 V. Do you have any recommendations for the best most accurate tool for CPU temps? HWMonitor seems to have too many hiccups for me to really put much stock in what it says.
Second, is there anything you might change in my UEFI settings to give me a better, possibly more stable OC? Maybe the same OC at lower voltages? I'll be honest and say I just followed a youtube tutorial for most of the settings I chose and I... kind of winged it for the adaptive +0.010 voltage bit. I don't want the CPU running at full bore with all that voltage going through it at all times. I want to allow it to rest but I also want to get the most out of the CPU when rendering or gaming without having to tweak anything else.
I use Realtemp (techinferno edition). But I've not seen a difference in hwmonitor/realtemp/coretemp for this.
1.4v 4.8ghz 6700k is about right.
The average is 1.35 4.6ghz.
You also have great temps, what cooling do you have?
Edit, D15 I see.
You could try 4.9Ghz to push the boat out and explore.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Yeah, I can't get a stable 4.8Ghz when even when I change the UEFI settings to 1.410. I'm still nervous about those VID readouts shooting into ~1.45 range even if CPU-Z says it's not actually getting that much voltage. :x Think I'm being irrational?
Thanks, the temps are really good. They used to be TERRIBLE before I delidded. I was shooting passed 80°C in AIDA64 @ 4.5Ghz / 1.335V. Almost instantly. I took the IHS off my CPU, applied Coollabratory Liquid Metal Ultra to the die and a small square on the underside of the IHS. At those settings it cut temps by ~25°C. And at MUCH higher voltages, it's still considerably cooler than it was prior to the delid.
It also moved the cores much, MUCH closer together in temps. Now there seems to be a max of 3°C temp variation from core to core. There used to be differences as high as 15°C+.
I'm using a Noctua NH-D15 air cooler in a Mini ITX case.
You have a pretty similar setup to me
7700k 4.8ghz delidded with CLU
Z170I
Node 304 ITX
GTX 970
Noctua NH U14S.
1.45v is the max people go to generally. But I would settle at 1.4v as a bit of extra vcore for 4.7Ghz, that gives peace of mind and solidifies your stable probability, plus you'll probably run fans slower whilst gaming compared to stress testing. I go for silence in normal usage.
As I said, ignore VID
CPUz Vcore is the only thing that matters.
Very well could be the ram, by part of me thinks it's the motherboard. I bought the same one and the thing caused me nothing but problems--crashes, struggling to boot, super sluggish response. Same exact symptoms as you, op, down to the weird inability to run windows update.
I've sinced pieced that build out entirely into different PCs aside from the motherboard and everything else is working fantastic still.
Never again with Biostar. Budget MSI is as low as I go for boards now.
Tried in 2 different PCIE slots. But yes it does feel like that.
For mid to high settings, you could just about manage it:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($192.33 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($99.97 @ Jet)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card ($504.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Lite 3 (Windowless) MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($30.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($48.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $996.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-03-12 06:45 EDT-0400
In all honesty though I'd save up a bit more for more suitable or better parts. For example there's no SSD in this as it would put it over, but you would absolutely 100% want one.
sono
Gold Member
So I have a concern related to the Haz enthusiast build in the op.
It has both Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case and DVD writer as options listed together, but doesnt advise that this case cant take a DVD writer.
I dont think there is any option to fit this in the case, and an external one hardly goes with a top of the range case..
It has both Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case and DVD writer as options listed together, but doesnt advise that this case cant take a DVD writer.
I dont think there is any option to fit this in the case, and an external one hardly goes with a top of the range case..
By default the case in that build does support a DVD writer, but you're right that the Enthoo Evolv doesn't. To be honest it's entirely optional though, most will not bother with an optical drive as you download pretty much all software now, and even Windows can be had on USB.
X99 is still a very powerful chipset. I doubt Asus will release one anytime soon since Edition 10 is still very new.
Hey guys,
I have a question about overclocking.
I just used the gigabyte software to do an auto tune. It put my 6700 I7 at 4.6 vs the stock 4.0. Is this 100% safe? I do have good cooling.
how does the boost clock speeds work on my OC 1080? its factory settings but it looks like it has different clock speeds ?
This is a new PC, besides RAM speed and CPU speed are there any other settings that may require a change in order to run them at OEM speeds? For example, my ram was running at 1066 not 1600 and I didnt realize it.
I have a question about overclocking.
I just used the gigabyte software to do an auto tune. It put my 6700 I7 at 4.6 vs the stock 4.0. Is this 100% safe? I do have good cooling.
how does the boost clock speeds work on my OC 1080? its factory settings but it looks like it has different clock speeds ?
This is a new PC, besides RAM speed and CPU speed are there any other settings that may require a change in order to run them at OEM speeds? For example, my ram was running at 1066 not 1600 and I didnt realize it.
opticalmace
Member
Auto overclocking is not 100% safe. If anything, I think it's riskier than doing it yourself. What vcore are you at? I think auto tends to run a fairly high vcore...
JonnyDBrit
Member
The only way to know if it's safe will be to have the system run for a bit. The term 'silicon lottery' exists for a reason, and auto overclocking is based on a general presumption of where most CPUs of a given type sit on the scale. It may be your CPU can run stable at those settings, it may be it can't - only way to know for sure is to use it.
With regards to GPU speeds, boost clock is basically kind of an automatic overclock that a GPU can do to meet demand, while the purpose of something like MSI Afterburner bumps the base clock speeds for a better overall performance.
I assume Vcore is CPU voltage? Looks like ...Not too sure actually. The PC program shows 1.4 greyed out regardless of setting.
also, when I initially boot up and went to bios, its not running at 4.6 there, but when it loads to my desktop, the OC gigabyte program is reporting it running at 4.6. Why is that?
Furthermore, according to the OC gigabyte program the OEM specs is 4.2 for my chip. Why isnt it 4.0? CPUz shows it as It as I7 6700 4.0
How do I get MSI Afterburner to display stats overlayed on my game? When I go to monitoring, OSD is not present.
Solved: I had aborted the Rivatuner install b/c I thought I accidentally ran the Afterburner install twice. It does 2 separate installs, one for each component.
Solved: I had aborted the Rivatuner install b/c I thought I accidentally ran the Afterburner install twice. It does 2 separate installs, one for each component.
Just stop and do it properly, overclocking this CPU needs knowledge of 3 settings. Auto OC is suboptimal for voltages.
CPU multiplier x46 for 4.6ghz
CPU voltage start at manual 1.3v
CPU load line calibration Asus level 5, other boards will have an optimal setting.
Do the ram after the CPU overclock.
You can use XMP but it's suboptimal for voltages.
4K movies are encoded in HEVC 10-bit. Decoding it with software methods is VERY slow, you need something with a hardware decoder and hdmi 2.0. Intel kabylake and Pascal GPUs can do it very easily. Anything older has limited support for hevc at best and have to do it through software and it's not usable with high quality videos at 60fps and/or with HDR. Lesser clips will work.
You can buy a gtx 1050 and be fully covered. I don't follow what AMD does.
edit: if you want to use netflix 4k, only kabylake CPUs work as of now.
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