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[Musician]

Well.. I think I've done goofed.

I have a 2700k OC'd to 4.5ghz cooled by a thermalright mux-120. After watching this video where it is explained that faster ram is a good way to keep your old CPU going for a while longer, especially with a new graphics card, I decided to upgrade my 1.5v 1600mhz and get some 1.65v DDR3 2133mhz sticks since I'm going to buy a new GPU very soon (most likely a 480 or 1070).

Installation was no problem and the computer booted up fine after applying the XMP setting. What I hadn't realized was that the memory controller on Sandy Bridge is on the CPU, meaning that I've added another 0.15v my vcore bringing it up to about 1.35.

The thermalright MUX-120 hasn't been treating me right since the beginning and even though I've tried to reseat it over and over again with less paste, paste in a pea, paste in a line, cleaned it thoroughly and changed out both fans to Noctuas my temps have always been higher than I'd liked. Even at 1.24v (4.5ghz) I had upwards of 70C during prime95.

Here's my problem. With the added vcore, my temps are getting to high, ending up at 88*C after 20 minutes of prime95. Gaming doesn't take it higher than 60-70 usually, but I want to bring down those 100% temps by at LEAST 10*C. This is with HT on, by the way.

What should I do? I could try to undervolt the memory, but I've lowered the cpu offset as low as I can without bluescreening. Is there some other voltage I can experiment with? Maybe directly on the memory?

I'm also eyeing the Noctua nh d15. I've been unhappy with the thermalright since the start anyway and I could propbably get the noctua for about 80$. Maybe with that I could actually raise the voltage a bit (I've been reading that 1.4 is the limit on haswell) and get a few extra hundred mhz out of the old 2700 as well.

Thing is, getting the faster memory was a cost saving measure! I was so psyched to be able to prolong my cpus (and mobos) lifespan by another few years for only the 50$ it cost me to get the new ram and adding another 80 on top of that makes me doubt is was worth it.

Any help would be much appreciated!

 

[michaelius]

That's a bit confusing - what does ram voltage have to do with vcore of you cpu ?

 

[roadrunn3r]

Yea the 2700K is not Haswell. Even then CPU temps are not related to the memory voltage.

 

[JaseC]

However, I also noticed my 1600mhz RAM has permanently been running at 1333mhz while poking around in the BIOS. Apparently the label on my RAM sticks should tell me the settings (like voltages etc) I need to change to make use of 1600mhz? Anyone know how to make sense of this info below? Man, there are a LOT of numbers and letters... Would be nice if I could just change the speed to 1600mhz and do nothing else, but apparently that might cause issues?

Sandy Bridge's memory controller runs RAM at 1333MHz by default. To bump that up 1600MHz, you need to enable XMP in the BIOS (AI Tweaker -> AI Overclock Tuner = XMP according to the manual for the r3). SB CPUs have a hard memory speed limit of 2133MHz (something I wish I'd known before I bought 2400MHz RAM), so 1600MHz is fine. You're probably thinking of overclocking slower RAM to 1600MHz, which could indeed result in instability.

 

[nightmare-slain]

Is there any truth to not updating your BIOS unless you absolutely have to? Just happened across BIOSAgentPlus and naturally they insist it would improve performance and security if I did update, but it got me wondering.

never heard of that before and had to google it. it seems it's just something that checks for the latest version of BIOS/drivers. i'm gonna guess you don't need it since you can check for those manually.

just use whatever BIOS comes with your motherboard and install any drivers that come with the motherboard like chipset, lan, wifi etc. i'd definitely suggest not updating your BIOS unless you have any trouble. updating the BIOS is quite simple, at least it was for my board, but the thing is it can risk bricking your board if the process goes wrong.

i only updated my BIOS when i kept getting BSOD's after a Windows 10 update. tried everything i could possibly think of and got to the point where all i could try next was a BIOS update and it fixed it.

 

[Musician]

Yea the 2700K is not Haswell. Even then CPU temps are not related to the memory voltage.

My bad, it's sandy bridge. From what I gather the 1.65v requires the memory controller (integrated into the 2700k) to be oc'd which it does automatically.

Before I installed the ram I had a vcore of about 1.24. After it's was at about 1.36-37. This is without me touching the offset. I've since managed to undervolt it a bit down to 1.344ish.

I had not idea it worked like this.. but apparently it does. It certainly could've been hellofalot clearer in the video I posted.

 

[TatteredHat]

I've been putting together and tweaking this build for a while now, I'm just wondering, is there any need to put more case-fans in here if I already have an after-market CPU cooler added on?

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/DHBCJV

 

[LilJoka]

I've been putting together and tweaking this build for a while now, I'm just wondering, is there any need to put more case-fans in here if I already have an after-market CPU cooler added on?

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/DHBCJV

Consider mATX board and case
Would not buy a reference 1070
Don't need AC5 paste, who still uses that?! MX4 or the stuff noctua provides is great/better.
No more case fans aren't needed.

 

[LilJoka]

Well.. I think I've done goofed.

I have a 2700k OC'd to 4.5ghz cooled by a thermalright mux-120. After watching this video where it is explained that faster ram is a good way to keep your old CPU going for a while longer, especially with a new graphics card, I decided to upgrade my 1.5v 1600mhz and get some 1.65v DDR3 2133mhz sticks since I'm going to buy a new GPU very soon (most likely a 480 or 1070).

Installation was no problem and the computer booted up fine after applying the XMP setting. What I hadn't realized was that the memory controller on Sandy Bridge is on the CPU, meaning that I've added another 0.15v my vcore bringing it up to about 1.35.

The thermalright MUX-120 hasn't been treating me right since the beginning and even though I've tried to reseat it over and over again with less paste, paste in a pea, paste in a line, cleaned it thoroughly and changed out both fans to Noctuas my temps have always been higher than I'd liked. Even at 1.24v (4.5ghz) I had upwards of 70C during prime95.

Here's my problem. With the added vcore, my temps are getting to high, ending up at 88*C after 20 minutes of prime95. Gaming doesn't take it higher than 60-70 usually, but I want to bring down those 100% temps by at LEAST 10*C. This is with HT on, by the way.

What should I do? I could try to undervolt the memory, but I've lowered the cpu offset as low as I can without bluescreening. Is there some other voltage I can experiment with? Maybe directly on the memory?

I'm also eyeing the Noctua nh d15. I've been unhappy with the thermalright since the start anyway and I could propbably get the noctua for about 80$. Maybe with that I could actually raise the voltage a bit (I've been reading that 1.4 is the limit on haswell) and get a few extra hundred mhz out of the old 2700 as well.

Thing is, getting the faster memory was a cost saving measure! I was so psyched to be able to prolong my cpus (and mobos) lifespan by another few years for only the 50$ it cost me to get the new ram and adding another 80 on top of that makes me doubt is was worth it.

Any help would be much appreciated!

You need to tweak the memory controller voltage: VTT(VCCIO).
Vcore can be tweaked for XMP, but usually only needs a small bump of 0.01-0.04v.

You should start at a lower memory speed like 1600mhz first. It's possible your IMC just can't do 2133mhz.

And while you test, use a fixed VCORE not offset.

 

[asdad123]

Oh, didn't realize the PSU isn't new. Hm, if you have a local PC shop maybe bring your PSU down there with you. I did that at mine and they had a gizmo for testing power supplies. Obviously swapping out the PSU would work if you have an extra or could borrow one from someone.

I guess it could be the motherboard, though that seems unlikely. Do you have an old system or parts floating around?

Looks like it is the motherboard.. Tried another PSU and still the same problem, and I'm on day 21 of my 15 day return period.

Hopefully Microcenter lets me return/exchange it.

 

[Lockjaw333]

What's the best gaming headsets out there?

Kingston HyperX Cloud II. Search over.

Currently $85 on Amazon I believe.

 

[Darkstorne]

Sandy Bridge's memory controller runs RAM at 1333MHz by default. To bump that up 1600MHz, you need to enable XMP in the BIOS (AI Tweaker -> AI Overclock Tuner = XMP according to the manual for the r3). SB CPUs have a hard memory speed limit of 2133MHz (something I wish I'd known before I bought 2400MHz RAM), so 1600MHz is fine. You're probably thinking of overclocking slower RAM to 1600MHz, which could indeed result in instability.

Woah, thanks! That's working perfectly (so far =P)

 

[Ozorov]

Kingston HyperX Cloud II. Search over.

Currently $85 on Amazon I believe.

Cool, will look it up. Thanks

 

[Celcius]

Well.. I think I've done goofed.

I have a 2700k OC'd to 4.5ghz cooled by a thermalright mux-120. After watching this video where it is explained that faster ram is a good way to keep your old CPU going for a while longer, especially with a new graphics card, I decided to upgrade my 1.5v 1600mhz and get some 1.65v DDR3 2133mhz sticks since I'm going to buy a new GPU very soon (most likely a 480 or 1070).

Installation was no problem and the computer booted up fine after applying the XMP setting. What I hadn't realized was that the memory controller on Sandy Bridge is on the CPU, meaning that I've added another 0.15v my vcore bringing it up to about 1.35.

The thermalright MUX-120 hasn't been treating me right since the beginning and even though I've tried to reseat it over and over again with less paste, paste in a pea, paste in a line, cleaned it thoroughly and changed out both fans to Noctuas my temps have always been higher than I'd liked. Even at 1.24v (4.5ghz) I had upwards of 70C during prime95.

Here's my problem. With the added vcore, my temps are getting to high, ending up at 88*C after 20 minutes of prime95. Gaming doesn't take it higher than 60-70 usually, but I want to bring down those 100% temps by at LEAST 10*C. This is with HT on, by the way.

What should I do? I could try to undervolt the memory, but I've lowered the cpu offset as low as I can without bluescreening. Is there some other voltage I can experiment with? Maybe directly on the memory?

I'm also eyeing the Noctua nh d15. I've been unhappy with the thermalright since the start anyway and I could propbably get the noctua for about 80$. Maybe with that I could actually raise the voltage a bit (I've been reading that 1.4 is the limit on haswell) and get a few extra hundred mhz out of the old 2700 as well.

Thing is, getting the faster memory was a cost saving measure! I was so psyched to be able to prolong my cpus (and mobos) lifespan by another few years for only the 50$ it cost me to get the new ram and adding another 80 on top of that makes me doubt is was worth it.

Any help would be much appreciated!

I'm running a 4.6ghz 2600k and I recently upgraded my memory from 1600mhz to 2133 mhz. I'm running my cpu at a manual voltage instead of offset and I didn't have to change any of my cpu settings during the memory upgrade. I wasn't using xmp for the memory before or after either. I just put the new memory in, set the voltage to 1.6v and timings to CL10, then ran some benches to make sure everything was good and it's been smooth sailing ever since. My cpu voltage & overclock have been completely unaffected.

 

[TatteredHat]

Consider mATX board and case
Would not buy a reference 1070
Don't need AC5 paste, who still uses that?! MX4 or the stuff noctua provides is great/better.
No more case fans aren't needed.

Yeah I'm not planning on getting a reference 1070, it's just in there for pricing estimates.

Thanks for the other tips, I wasn't aware AC5 paste was outdated.

 

[justjim89]

A few questions I have in regards to building a PC:

Do I need to buy Windows 10 for it, or will one of the parts come with Windows? How do I go about installing it on a freshly-built system?

Do I have to buy a separate part for connecting to the internet, or is that already a component of one of the other standard parts? A wired connection isn't really an option in my house, so there's that.

I keep hearing about some kind of paste or something whenever building a PC comes up. Is that a thing I need to buy separately? What exactly is it?

 

[kuYuri]

A few questions I have in regards to building a PC:

Do I need to buy Windows 10 for it, or will one of the parts come with Windows? How do I go about installing it on a freshly-built system?

Do I have to buy a separate part for connecting to the internet, or is that already a component of one of the other standard parts? A wired connection isn't really an option in my house, so there's that.

You can either purchase a W10 disc, digital download, or a USB drive preloaded with it. Usually you just stick the disc or USB drive into your PC and boot from that device and just follow the instructions. It's fairly easy.

If you don't have a disc drive, you can either get one to install it from a disc or use a flash drive plugged into a USB port. Pretty much any computer in the last decade or so should have at least one USB port. You can create your own Windows ISO file to install W10 using the Media Creation Tool. You still need a product key from somewhere to activate W10 if you have it downloaded but have never activated before.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/

 

[AyaisMUsikWhore]

Whoa, hey, that's not bad at all. Don't be so hard on yourself! The only thing I would change is the power supply. Get a Rosewill Capstone G550. 550W is more than enough for those parts, even fully overclocked. Also, if you're gunning for 1080p, 1440p and VR I would just get a Radeon 480 when that comes out.

And the two golden rules of PC gaming:

1. Don't adopt a "max settings or bust" attitude. Take a bit of time to understand what various settings do, and tweak until you reach a happy medium. For example, the maximum AA setting might be 8xMSAA. That's ridiculously expensive in recent games. 2x looks almost as good, and is a much lighter load.

2. The best futureproofing is having money left over. Computers obsolesce really goddamned fast. Except, in many cases, CPU's. Like the 2500K from 2011, or the i7-920 from 2008.

Welcome! Don't feel like an idiot, we're happy to help.

Your parts list is actually quite solid, you should give yourself more credit. The only real recommendation that I feel you absolutely should do is add a solid state drive. One of the more popular and highest quality is the Samsung 850 EVO SSDs, but you can go for just about any from Crucial, Sandisk, PNY, etc. An SSD will dramatically increase the speed of your computer once your operating system is installed. I recommend the 480GB or above ones to install the OS and a few games, but even a small 120GB one will get the job done for fitting the OS and some programs. You can use your current 1TB on the list to install other games, store media, etc.

😃 Thank you so much guys. Actually, that advise about future proofing is pretty dope. I really never thought about it that way lol. I was debating hard with buying the i7 and chilling with that because I wouldn't need to upgrade for YEARS but then I heard to stick with the i5 since my gaming habits wouldn't need so much overkill and helps with my pocket, so definitely having extra money left over is actually, wow...I never actually thought about it like that at all lol. Plus I will make that bump with the power supply as suggested. Thanks much.

I actually did have a SSD apart of the build and it was a 250gb. But I took it out to keep costs low. However, once again, I wasn't thinking of having the OS booting from it so that also is some very sound advise. Thanks a lot guys!

 

[Deleted member 102362]

Hey folks. I recently purchased a refurbished Acer Predator XB271HU monitor from Acer Recertified, and it's currently in transit. I was wondering, for other people who bought this monitor refurbished, what cables does it come with? Does it have HDMI, DP, and USB 3.0 cables, or are some of them missing? I've seen comments from people indicating that the USB 3.0 cable is missing, and was wondering if that was the universal experience, or just random. If it is missing, would Acer Recertified send out the missing cable, at my request, or do I need to buy my own?

Thanks ahead of time!

 

[Ocho]

Is it possible to build a small factor PC with an 1080 and the newest CPU/ram etc? Small form guide seems outdated. Any good guides?

 

[Vuze]

Is it possible to build a small factor PC with an 1080 and the newest CPU/ram etc? Small form guide seems outdated. Any good guides?

Sure, it's mainly graphics card and CPU cooler size that will be limiting but most 1080s should fit no problem. I'd say find an ITX case you like and pick CPU cooler / 1080 card based on the max measurements of the case.

 

[QuantumSquid]

Is it possible to build a small factor PC with an 1080 and the newest CPU/ram etc? Small form guide seems outdated. Any good guides?

It is totally possible, you just need to make sure you use a case that is big enough to fit a 1080 in it.

 

[wowzors]

Went to order the X99 carbon today and its sold out on newegg. Fuuuuuuuuu

 

[justjim89]

You can either purchase a W10 disc, digital download, or a USB drive preloaded with it. Usually you just stick the disc or USB drive into your PC and boot from that device and just follow the instructions. It's fairly easy.

If you don't have a disc drive, you can either get one to install it from a disc or use a flash drive plugged into a USB port. Pretty much any computer in the last decade or so should have at least one USB port. You can create your own Windows ISO file to install W10 using the Media Creation Tool. You still need a product key from somewhere to activate W10 if you have it downloaded but have never activated before.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/

Thanks, the more and more seriously I think about all this, especially with all the money it will require, the more nervous I get. So many extra investments on top of just the PC parts. Getting a desk, putting it together, making room for it, etc. I know it'll all be worth it when it's all said and done, but man it's a lot to worry about.

If I didn't have 400 games in my Steam library, just going console and avoiding the headaches would be tempting. Or if I had the extra money for a pre-built. Ah well. Between threads like this and Youtube tutorials, I'm sure I'll be fine.

 

[Strafebogey]

Is it possible to build a small factor PC with an 1080 and the newest CPU/ram etc? Small form guide seems outdated. Any good guides?

Slightly bigger than an Xbox One. Silverstone Raven RVZ01 with Core i7 4790K overclocked cooled by Corsair H55 and GTX1080 FE.

Vertical or horizontal. You can replace that Haswell board with current Skylake S board in mini-iTX config.

Here's a sample build log video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlRHca2qrHM

 

[Ocho]

Here's a sample build log video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlRHca2qrHM

Looks great, thanks for sharing!

 

[Mr Swine]

Hey guys, I found a used 3770 (non K) on webhallen (Swedish site) it costs 2500sek, should I go ahead and buy it and replace my 3570k? If I do then I don't need to buy a new mobo, could and memory until next year atleast

 

[LilJoka]

Hey guys, I found a used 3770 (non K) on webhallen (Swedish site) it costs 2500sek, should I go ahead and buy it and replace my 3570k? If I do then I don't need to buy a new mobo, could and memory until next year atleast

If you have a Z series board you can overclock a non K 3770 to 4.2Ghz quite easily too. That would last more than a year easily.
Not sure how much 2500sek is in comparison to new parts so can't say if it's good value or not.

 

[Intel]

Any can recommend for me ?

My region dont have Asus Z170-Pro

So i dont know i pick Asus Z170-A or MSI Z170A-GAMING PRO CARBON.

 

[opticalmace]

Hey guys, I found a used 3770 (non K) on webhallen (Swedish site) it costs 2500sek, should I go ahead and buy it and replace my 3570k? If I do then I don't need to buy a new mobo, could and memory until next year atleast

How much do the 6600k and 6700k cost for comparison? I don't know what prices are like in your region.

Even ignoring the above, I don't think it makes a ton of sense. I'd probably go for a 4.5Ghz 3570k over a stock 3770 most of the time anyway, without even considering the additional cost to buy the latter.

 

[kuYuri]

😃 Thank you so much guys. Actually, that advise about future proofing is pretty dope. I really never thought about it that way lol. I was debating hard with buying the i7 and chilling with that because I wouldn't need to upgrade for YEARS but then I heard to stick with the i5 since my gaming habits wouldn't need so much overkill and helps with my pocket, so definitely having extra money left over is actually, wow...I never actually thought about it like that at all lol. Plus I will make that bump with the power supply as suggested. Thanks much.

I actually did have a SSD apart of the build and it was a 250gb. But I took it out to keep costs low. However, once again, I wasn't thinking of having the OS booting from it so that also is some very sound advise. Thanks a lot guys!

I would highly recommend saving up a little extra to make sure you get a SSD in there. It's a true game changer and will go a long way to making your PC feel powerful and fast. You won't want to go back to regular hard drives again after SSDs.

 

[kennah]

Hey guys, I found a used 3770 (non K) on webhallen (Swedish site) it costs 2500sek, should I go ahead and buy it and replace my 3570k? If I do then I don't need to buy a new mobo, could and memory until next year atleast

In 90% of applications it would be no faster.

 

[Fimbulvetr]

I'm looking for a good budget-ish 144Hz FreeSync monitor to go with my impending upgrade to an RX 480. From some research it looks like the ViewSonic XG2401 is my top option, anyone here have experience with it?

The AOC G2770PF is close in price and has a somewhat better FreeSync range (going down to 30Hz versus the ViewSonic's 48Hz) and is larger, but reviews seem a little less glowing. There's also the 24 inch model which is the same size as the ViewSonic, but it still has the FreeSync range advantage and is cheaper. Any advice?

 

[michaelius]

Sandy Bridge's memory controller runs RAM at 1333MHz by default. To bump that up 1600MHz, you need to enable XMP in the BIOS (AI Tweaker -> AI Overclock Tuner = XMP according to the manual for the r3). SB CPUs have a hard memory speed limit of 2133MHz (something I wish I'd known before I bought 2400MHz RAM), so 1600MHz is fine. You're probably thinking of overclocking slower RAM to 1600MHz, which could indeed result in instability.

It doesn't have any kind of hard limit to 2133- it's just very hard to hit 2400 on them since their IMC isn't good enough.

I've been running my Gskill TridentX 2400 CL10 on 2500k at 2286 CL9 T1 speeds before moving to Haswell.

 

[QuantumSquid]

Hey fellas, I'm looking to switch from my boring windowless Corsair 100R to a case that looks nicer and lets me see inside it (might put in some RGB LED strips as well).

Anyone have recommendations? I am specifically interested in good MicroATX cases, as I for some reason have a MicroATX motherboard despite my current case being standard ATX.

I was looking at the Corsair Air 240 but I don't know if anyone here has better suggestions.

 

[Megabat]

Hey fellas, I'm looking to switch from my boring windowless Corsair 100R to a case that looks nicer and lets me see inside it (might put in some RGB LED strips as well).

Anyone have recommendations? I am specifically interested in good MicroATX cases, as I for some reason have a MicroATX motherboard despite my current case being standard ATX.

I was looking at the Corsair Air 240 but I don't know if anyone here has better suggestions.

I have a friend with this case, and they love it. I think it's probably the best mATX case for people who want cool lights and stuff. All the other great enclosures in that price range (SilverStone TJ08, Fractal Define Mini, others) are better for understated workstations.

Just make sure your graphics card will fit, height-wise. If you look, you'll see that there isn't much room between the expansion slots and the window. There is just enough room for the card and power leads. Your card either needs to be standard width or max width with an inset power input.

 

[asdad123]

Looks like it is the motherboard.. Tried another PSU and still the same problem, and I'm on day 21 of my 15 day return period.

Hopefully Microcenter lets me return/exchange it.

Okay... I am losing my mind. I need your help PC-Gaf. As you can see above, I am having problems with my recently built PC. Specs were:

I7-6700k (new)
980ti (re-used)
16gb Corsair Vengeance LPX 2666mhz (new)
Gigabyte Gaming GT Z170 ATX Motherboard (new)
H212 Cooler
PC Power and Cooling Silencer MKIII PSU
Samsung Evo 500gb ssd
1 TB HDD

I used it yesterday morning, no problem. Came home last night, and computer was in a constant boot loop. Turned on for 5 seconds, shut right off, and kept going til I held the power button. I figured it was the PSU, so i tried it with my brother's PSU this morning, and same thing.

Then I figured it was the motherboard, so I managed to get Microcenter to exchange my board to a Asus Z170 Pro. I swapped everything out, and everything turns on, but there is no display. Also, the CPU LED is red, which means something is wrong.

I went back to micro center, bought some new ram, swapped it out, tried 1 stick at at time, and still the same problem.

Could my CPU have broken?? It is the only thing I haven't swapped out yet... Anyone ever deal with an intel RMA?

 

[Protein]

What's everyone's take on extremely thin vertical lines across the monitor? They're barrrreeeely visible.

Is it a GPU problem or a monitor problem?

My GPU temps are normal. Idle 39c; Heavy gaming 70c. Testing for artifacts on EVGA's OC Scanner X and came back with 0 on all benchmarks.

My monitor refresh rate was 59hz. Switched to 60hz and nothing. I recently bought my GTX970. What's happening????


Edit:

 

[QuantumSquid]

I have a friend with this case, and they love it. I think it's probably the best mATX case for people who want cool lights and stuff. All the other great enclosures in that price range (SilverStone TJ08, Fractal Define Mini, others) are better for understated workstations.

Just make sure your graphics card will fit, height-wise. If you look, you'll see that there isn't much room between the expansion slots and the window. There is just enough room for the card and power leads. Your card either needs to be standard width or max width with an inset power input.

I have an EVGA GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0+. I'm no expert but it seems to be average width? It's certainly not nearly as wide as those MSI Twin Frozr cards.

 

[Megabat]

I have an EVGA GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0+. I'm no expert but it seems to be average width? It's certainly not nearly as wide as those MSI Twin Frozr cards.

Yes! Those cards are basically standard height.

 

[Megabat]

What's everyone's take on extremely thin vertical lines across the monitor? They're barrrreeeely visible.

Is it a GPU problem or a monitor problem?

My GPU temps are normal. Idle 39c; Heavy gaming 70c. Testing for artifacts on EVGA's OC Scanner X and came back with 0 on all benchmarks.

My monitor refresh rate was 59hz. Switched to 60hz and nothing. I recently bought my GTX970. What's happening????


Edit:

Well, uhhh, what exact GPU and monitor are you using? What video driver version are you using? Did you use Display Driver Uninstaller before installing the new card? If so, did you try reinstalling video drivers?

59Hz is normal. It is, in actuality, more like 59.997Hz. Your GPU temperatures are fine.

 

[LyleLanley]

Is this the thread to ask about prebuilt PCs as well? I asked this in the X51 thread already but what's currently the best small/console sized prebuilt PC? Are any of them capable of VR?

 

[Protein]

Well, uhhh, what exact GPU and monitor are you using? What video driver version are you using? Did you use Display Driver Uninstaller before installing the new card? If so, did you try reinstalling video drivers?

59Hz is normal. It is, in actuality, more like 59.997Hz. Your GPU temperatures are fine.

EVGA GeForce GTX 970
4GB SC GAMING w/ACX 2.0, Silent Cooling Graphics Card

and just a basic LG Flatron W22 monitor that I've had for several years.

Driver 368.39

I wiped any old ATI drivers that may have still been around. I did a clean install (just now) for my Nvidia drivers. Nothing changed. If it's a monitor issue, I'll be glad to purchase a new monitor. If it's a faulty GPU, then I'll just have to wait until Nvidia sends me a GTX 1070 (I'm enrolled in step-up program).

 

[IronWarrior]

Hey guys, figured this would be a good thread to post this in: the WiFi in my house can get pretty spotty, so I was looking in to powerline adapters. I read this thread here and it seems most people had a positive experience, so I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation on which one/brand to go with.

 

[SourBear]

Hey guys, figured this would be a good thread to post this in: the WiFi in my house can get pretty spotty, so I was looking in to powerline adapters. I read this thread here and it seems most people had a positive experience, so I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation on which one/brand to go with.

These only work if you are on the same power circuit between the two outlets you want to connect together.

 

[ombz]

Okay... I am losing my mind. I need your help PC-Gaf. As you can see above, I am having problems with my recently built PC. Specs were:

I7-6700k (new)
980ti (re-used)
16gb Corsair Vengeance LPX 2666mhz (new)
Gigabyte Gaming GT Z170 ATX Motherboard (new)
H212 Cooler
PC Power and Cooling Silencer MKIII PSU
Samsung Evo 500gb ssd
1 TB HDD

I used it yesterday morning, no problem. Came home last night, and computer was in a constant boot loop. Turned on for 5 seconds, shut right off, and kept going til I held the power button. I figured it was the PSU, so i tried it with my brother's PSU this morning, and same thing.

Then I figured it was the motherboard, so I managed to get Microcenter to exchange my board to a Asus Z170 Pro. I swapped everything out, and everything turns on, but there is no display. Also, the CPU LED is red, which means something is wrong.

I went back to micro center, bought some new ram, swapped it out, tried 1 stick at at time, and still the same problem.

Could my CPU have broken?? It is the only thing I haven't swapped out yet... Anyone ever deal with an intel RMA?

I went through an RMA with Intel and it was pretty straight forward. I believe you only have to pay if you want expedited shipping.

 

[PBalfredo]

Just be careful, as that fan apparently lacks memory clearance, so if all your RAM slots are occupied and the sticks are tall it may be a tight fit. Be sure to put the RAM in first.

If your chief concern is keeping cool and your case has enough dust filters, I'd maybe add another case fan as an exhaust (top or side). More exhaust means more cool air being pulled in from outside to compensate for the vacuum, but also means more dust can come with it.

Have fun you bastard, I'm jealous of that 1080

Thanks. Picked up an extra case fan for the top. My CPU cooler says its "100% RAM compatible" but I'll make sure to put the RAM in first just to be safe.

 

[LilJoka]

Okay... I am losing my mind. I need your help PC-Gaf. As you can see above, I am having problems with my recently built PC. Specs were:

I7-6700k (new)
980ti (re-used)
16gb Corsair Vengeance LPX 2666mhz (new)
Gigabyte Gaming GT Z170 ATX Motherboard (new)
H212 Cooler
PC Power and Cooling Silencer MKIII PSU
Samsung Evo 500gb ssd
1 TB HDD

I used it yesterday morning, no problem. Came home last night, and computer was in a constant boot loop. Turned on for 5 seconds, shut right off, and kept going til I held the power button. I figured it was the PSU, so i tried it with my brother's PSU this morning, and same thing.

Then I figured it was the motherboard, so I managed to get Microcenter to exchange my board to a Asus Z170 Pro. I swapped everything out, and everything turns on, but there is no display. Also, the CPU LED is red, which means something is wrong.

I went back to micro center, bought some new ram, swapped it out, tried 1 stick at at time, and still the same problem.

Could my CPU have broken?? It is the only thing I haven't swapped out yet... Anyone ever deal with an intel RMA?

Take the CPU out
Take a good look at the pins
If all is well you might consider RMAing the CPU.
But really you need a spare CPU/Mobo to test.

 

[asdad123]

Take the CPU out
Take a good look at the pins
If all is well you might consider RMAing the CPU.
But really you need a spare CPU/Mobo to test.

Pins are all good. This is the second motherboard that I am having a problem with.

The original was the gigabyte gaming GT. I returned that this morning and got a Asus z170 pro.

A 600 watt power supply should be enough right? I haven't had problems with it on a 4770k and 980ti so I decided to reuse it for the 6700k. My brothers was also a 600 watt.

I ordered myself a supernova g2 750 watt which will be coming tomorrow to check. If it's not the psu, it has to be the cpu since I already switched out the motherboard, ram, tried it without the gpu, and am planning on swapping the psu.

Edit: also, the fans blow a full speed the whole time. This is like the 5th or 6th PC I built and it's the first time I have had problems.

 

[LilJoka]

Pins are all good. This is the second motherboard that I am having a problem with.

The original was the gigabyte gaming GT. I returned that this morning and got a Asus z170 pro.

A 600 watt power supply should be enough right? I haven't had problems with it on a 4770k and 980ti so I decided to reuse it for the 6700k. My brothers was also a 600 watt.

I ordered myself a supernova g2 750 watt which will be coming tomorrow to check. If it's not the psu, it has to be the cpu since I already switched out the motherboard, ram, tried it without the gpu, and am planning on swapping the psu.

It's extremely rare, but maybe it's the CPU. Always the hardest to troubleshoot.
It's not a matter of wattage. Just PSU quality and functioning. Any mediocre PSU should atleast boot your system.