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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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wheeplash

Member
I'm pretty sure your onboard graphics will be used if you use the DP out on your motherboard. But I can almost guarantee that your 760 has a DP out.

Hmmmm you're right! I got a little confused thinking Freesync/Gsync had to go through the Motherboard somehow.
There are no cheaper H170 boards on stock so I'll stick with it.
 

Megabat

Member
So is it worth it to get 3200 ram instead of 2133 or anything in between? Doesn't seem to be a big price difference between them.

I could link you to some stuff, but off the top of my head:

- capacity above all-16GB of 2133MHz is better than 8GB of faster stuff (if not for games, for everything else)

- speed will only help in CPU-intensive games like Fallout 4. But it's really good in those games. 2666MHz is a large increase over 2133MHz, and 3600 is the dropoff point.

I would go into PCPartPicker and check speeds from 2666-3200 + capacities of 2x8GB and 4x4GB + CAS latencies 16 or below. Whatever is cheapest from G.Skill, Corsair, Crucial, A-Data, and other recognizable brands, is what you should get. Right now, I see 16GB of A-Data DDR4-3000 for $62.
 

wheeplash

Member
Yeah, still a great board choice. It has USB Type-C.

Just a single thing. According to the specs this motherboard supports memory speed up to 2133mhz. When I still the 2400mhz sticks will it automatically default to 2133? Is it impossible to get them to full speed?

Just curious btw, not interested in trying it if it's risky.
 
Is there any truth to not updating your BIOS unless you absolutely have to? Just happened across BIOSAgentPlus and naturally they insist it would improve performance and security if I did update, but it got me wondering.
 

Rizzi

Member
So I need a new GPU now that my 970 is actually dead.
Thinking either R9 390x for $500 or wait to see how much the RX 480 costs over here.
What do you guys reckon?
 

Megabat

Member
Just a single thing. According to the specs this motherboard supports memory speed up to 2133mhz. When I still the 2400mhz sticks will it automatically default to 2133? Is it impossible to get them to full speed?

Just curious btw, not interested in trying it if it's risky.

There is no risk, but H170 only supports 2133Mhz. Anything higher will just be knocked down to that speed. It's not a huge deal. You could have gotten a Z170 board for not much more, but it's definitely not worth returning for a slight memory speed gain.
 
I've been debating coming into this thread for weeks because I'm a bit of a newbie and didn't want to sound like a supreme dumbass but here it is lol

I'm making my first PC by hand for the first time and I've been doing tons of research but I still feel stuck. I wanted to come in here for advice or some additional education from more experienced vets on what to do and my better options.

To start, I'm not particularly tied to a budget BUT I want the best performance for a good price. My computer build isn't going to be enthusiasts per say, I but I want it to be decent enough to play most games on max settings without much work. However one big issue with me is controlling my horrible indecisiveness and my urge to always go big because of future proofing. I read a lot that said future proofing is a waste and I can't help but feel like it isn't but I really want some honest perspective on that.

I've created an idea of what I want with PC part Picker and this is where it all ties in. Can anyone tell me if this is good, or what would you change? Or even if there might be some capability issues?

Here's the link: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ayaismusikwhore/saved/yxkhP6

Couple other things. To describe my gaming background , I'm kind of a jack of all spades but master of none. I like playing a multitude of genres and I'm mostly a console gamer but I love PC games such as sim builders, sim games, Indies, RTS games like Shogun, and games like Civ 4, and the occasional AAA if I can get them cheaper on PC. I don't do a lot of gaming on my current PC now but I would like to increase that by more when I have a more capable PC.
 

LogicStep

Member
I had the same question a week ago and after reading some articles and tests, the only really noticable difference using Skylake CPUs is in benchmarks specifically targeting RAM and if you use the internal GPU for gaming. In normal use cases and gaming with a graphics card there is pretty much no noticeable difference. I initially planned to get 3000 MHz RAM but then settled on 2400 MHz because it's cheaper and as I said, it didn't appear to be worth it.
That's what I'm seeing from reading online.
 

Megabat

Member
So I need a new GPU now that my 970 is actually dead.
Thinking either R9 390x for $500 or wait to see how much the RX 480 costs over here.
What do you guys reckon?

Canada? Yeah, I would wait for the new stuff. 390X is kind of a bear of a card, in terms of power usage and size. I would imagine the Canadian price would be $300-320.
 

Rizzi

Member
Canada? Yeah, I would wait for the new stuff. 390X is kind of a bear of a card, in terms of power usage and size. I would imagine the Canadian price would be $300-320.

Australia. I was thinking the 1070 would be nice, but it's $770 here. :/
 

Megabat

Member
I've been debating coming into this thread for weeks because I'm a bit of a newbie and didn't want to sound like a supreme dumbass but here it is lol

I'm making my first PC by hand for the first time and I've been doing tons of research but I still feel stuck. I wanted to come in here for advice or some additional education from more experienced vets on what to do and my better options.

To start, I'm not particularly tied to a budget BUT I want the best performance for a good price. My computer build isn't going to be enthusiasts per say, I but I want it to be decent enough to play most games on max settings without much work. However one big issue with me is controlling my horrible indecisiveness and my urge to always go big because of future proofing. I read a lot that said future proofing is a waste and I can't help but feel like it isn't but I really want some honest perspective on that.

I've created an idea of what I want with PC part Picker and this is where it all ties in. Can anyone tell me if this is good, or what would you change? Or even if there might be some capability issues?

Here's the link: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ayaismusikwhore/saved/yxkhP6

Couple other things. To describe my gaming background , I'm kind of a jack of all spades but master of none. I like playing a multitude of genres and I'm mostly a console gamer but I love PC games such as sim builders, sim games, Indies, RTS games like Shogun, and games like Civ 4, and the occasional AAA if I can get them cheaper on PC. I don't do a lot of gaming on my current PC now but I would like to increase that by more when I have a more capable PC.

Whoa, hey, that's not bad at all. Don't be so hard on yourself! The only thing I would change is the power supply. Get a Rosewill Capstone G550. 550W is more than enough for those parts, even fully overclocked. Also, if you're gunning for 1080p, 1440p and VR I would just get a Radeon 480 when that comes out.

And the two golden rules of PC gaming:

1. Don't adopt a "max settings or bust" attitude. Take a bit of time to understand what various settings do, and tweak until you reach a happy medium. For example, the maximum AA setting might be 8xMSAA. That's ridiculously expensive in recent games. 2x looks almost as good, and is a much lighter load.

2. The best futureproofing is having money left over. Computers obsolesce really goddamned fast. Except, in many cases, CPU's. Like the 2500K from 2011, or the i7-920 from 2008.
 

kuYuri

Member
I've been debating coming into this thread for weeks because I'm a bit of a newbie and didn't want to sound like a supreme dumbass but here it is lol

I'm making my first PC by hand for the first time and I've been doing tons of research but I still feel stuck. I wanted to come in here for advice or some additional education from more experienced vets on what to do and my better options.

To start, I'm not particularly tied to a budget BUT I want the best performance for a good price. My computer build isn't going to be enthusiasts per say, I but I want it to be decent enough to play most games on max settings without much work. However one big issue with me is controlling my horrible indecisiveness and my urge to always go big because of future proofing. I read a lot that said future proofing is a waste and I can't help but feel like it isn't but I really want some honest perspective on that.

I've created an idea of what I want with PC part Picker and this is where it all ties in. Can anyone tell me if this is good, or what would you change? Or even if there might be some capability issues?

Here's the link: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ayaismusikwhore/saved/yxkhP6

Couple other things. To describe my gaming background , I'm kind of a jack of all spades but master of none. I like playing a multitude of genres and I'm mostly a console gamer but I love PC games such as sim builders, sim games, Indies, RTS games like Shogun, and games like Civ 4, and the occasional AAA if I can get them cheaper on PC. I don't do a lot of gaming on my current PC now but I would like to increase that by more when I have a more capable PC.

Welcome! Don't feel like an idiot, we're happy to help.

Your parts list is actually quite solid, you should give yourself more credit. The only real recommendation that I feel you absolutely should do is add a solid state drive. One of the more popular and highest quality is the Samsung 850 EVO SSDs, but you can go for just about any from Crucial, Sandisk, PNY, etc. An SSD will dramatically increase the speed of your computer once your operating system is installed. I recommend the 480GB or above ones to install the OS and a few games, but even a small 120GB one will get the job done for fitting the OS and some programs. You can use your current 1TB on the list to install other games, store media, etc.
 

justjim89

Member
I'm planning my first PC build sometime within the next month or so, and I was looking at PC Gamer's mid-range build guide. Is this a pretty good starting point? Any parts I should swap out for others? It looks like I'll still need to buy a monitor, keyboard and OS even aside from the parts they recommended, correct? I'd ideally like to keep the price below $1800 total, but I can probably go up to 2 grand if necessary.
 

Armadilo

Banned
when the 480 and 1070 are out will the Builds be updated ? also when is the time to actually build a gaming pc ? heard about some stuff coming out later this year and a lot of wait, wait
 

LilJoka

Member
when the 480 and 1070 are out will the Builds be updated ? also when is the time to actually build a gaming pc ? heard about some stuff coming out later this year and a lot of wait, wait

There isnt anything to update in the OP, just the GPUs. Your probably going to want to pair them with a rig that is some sort of i5 3xxx or higher or i7 3770k or higher.

No, there is nothing more to wait for.

New CPUs may arrive next year, but will be just as incremental or even less than prior gens.
The new enthusiast lineup of CPUs has just come out, but that is on the X99 platform, which isnt really required for gaming.
 

wheeplash

Member
There is no risk, but H170 only supports 2133Mhz. Anything higher will just be knocked down to that speed. It's not a huge deal. You could have gotten a Z170 board for not much more, but it's definitely not worth returning for a slight memory speed gain.

Ty :) I agree it's not even remotely worth it.
 
I've been looking through different motherboards (the ones mentioned in the OP, more from the same brands, etc) and does it really just come down to being really lucky that you don't get some sort of major issue with whichever one you buy?

I'll read through some recent reviews for various boards and most of the time it's about 50/50 on whether or not there's some major issue right off the bat or just a few weeks later. Are there any 1151 boards that have at least shown to be more reliable than not?
 

appaws

Banned
I questioned my own build after seeing this and then I realized that there's no price for the 1080 there. Might want to add $500 to that.

Oh Yeah. Missed that.

Thanks a lot appaws for your lengthy and helpful reply!

You are welcome. I love talking about this stuff.


Reading up a bit on it, 2560x1440 would seem to give you a pretty sweet spot between image quality and performance (coming from consoles I would love to be able to run most stuff at at least 60 fps, and we don't seem to be quite there with 4K, right?).

I saw a pretty good deal for an Acer Predator XB270HUD, would that be a decent choice for a 2560x1440 display with G-sync?

I think you are right. I think we are on the cusp of 4K gaming at stable 60 fps, but not quite there yet. Perhaps the 1080ti or whatever it is called will get us there. A gen or two from now might get us there at a reasonable price for more mainstream gamers.

As to that Acer monitor...I have no personal experience with it. I see a lot of good reviews around, with the usual comments about Acer's minor drawbacks...like a lack of style in the hardware design, etc.


Do you think i7 is overkill for gaming right now? Would it be a good idea to go for an i7-6700K to futureproof the rig a little bit more?

I would never say an i7 is overkill. It depends on uses of course. For a person who has a primary use of gaming, and is not going to do any serious work in graphics, photos, or video...an i5 6600k is a great CPU to buy right now. I use the i7 6700k myself, OC'ed to 4.6 and it is a great CPU for gaming and also my video editing and photography.

Some people have more of a use case for even more cores and threads and can move on up to the X99 boards and Haswell-E stuff.

But since this thread is about building gaming PCs...and most people have some IRL budget limit to contend with, the i5 falls on the top of the heap here.
 

vector824

Member
Been waiting on activation to post. Built this with the help of a friend back in April. Primary uses are photo/video editing and gaming, running Win 10.
Timelapse of us putting it together.

Monitor Samsung CF390 Series 24" Freesync
Waiting on the AMD 480 for the GPU.

Case: NZXT S340 ATX
CPU: Intel Skylake i5 6600K
Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Mobo: Gigabyte LGA1151 Z170X-UD5 TH
RAM: HyperX Savage 8GB DDR4 3000mhz
SSD: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2 NVMe
HDD: 4TB WD Black
PSU: CORSAIR RMx RM650X 650W

Total Price ~$1200














Temps never hit above 54 Celsius with heavy rendering! So chill.
 

vector824

Member
I'm planning my first PC build sometime within the next month or so, and I was looking at PC Gamer's mid-range build guide. Is this a pretty good starting point? Any parts I should swap out for others? It looks like I'll still need to buy a monitor, keyboard and OS even aside from the parts they recommended, correct? I'd ideally like to keep the price below $1800 total, but I can probably go up to 2 grand if necessary.

See my build I just posted, copy it and add in a 512gb 950 Pro m.2 SSD instead of 256gb for more space, another 8gb RAM to bump to 16gb, GPU like the 480 for around $300 later this month and you're hitting the ~$1800 mark WITH monitor, keyboard etc...
 

LogicStep

Member
I could link you to some stuff, but off the top of my head:

- capacity above all-16GB of 2133MHz is better than 8GB of faster stuff (if not for games, for everything else)

- speed will only help in CPU-intensive games like Fallout 4. But it's really good in those games. 2666MHz is a large increase over 2133MHz, and 3600 is the dropoff point.

I would go into PCPartPicker and check speeds from 2666-3200 + capacities of 2x8GB and 4x4GB + CAS latencies 16 or below. Whatever is cheapest from G.Skill, Corsair, Crucial, A-Data, and other recognizable brands, is what you should get. Right now, I see 16GB of A-Data DDR4-3000 for $62.

I didn't see your message before. Thanks, that's informative.

This is the board I'm planning on getting:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012NH05UW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Says: "2nd Generation T-Topology for DDR4 3200+ MHz with all memory slots populated."

Does that mean if I get 2x8gb of 3200 RAM I won't be able to take advantage of the speed? I need 4 sticks?

Looking at this set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EI5ZRQY/?tag=neogaf0e-20

White on white, making me debate if I should get the white case as well....
 
See my build I just posted, copy it and add in a 512gb 950 Pro m.2 SSD instead of 256gb for more space, another 8gb RAM to bump to 16gb, GPU like the 480 for around $300 later this month and you're hitting the ~$1800 mark WITH monitor, keyboard etc...

Or instead of spending on super expensive m2 ssd he could get better gpu

Also let's just say that money you paid for 950 pro could have given you 850 evo + bump to 16 GB of ram or upgrade to i7
 

Megabat

Member
I didn't see your message before. Thanks, that's informative.

This is the board I'm planning on getting:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012NH05UW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Says: "2nd Generation T-Topology for DDR4 3200+ MHz with all memory slots populated."

Does that mean if I get 2x8gb of 3200 RAM I won't be able to take advantage of the speed? I need 4 sticks?

Looking at this set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EI5ZRQY/?tag=neogaf0e-20

White on white, making me debate if I should get the white case as well....

I think they mean you can get those speeds even with all the memory slots populated. The more slots you fill, the more work the memory controller has to do.
 

LilJoka

Member
Been waiting on activation to post. Built this with the help of a friend back in April. Primary uses are photo/video editing and gaming, running Win 10.

Nice rig.
A tip for the future, install the CPU, RAM and CPU cooler onto the motherboard before putting the board in the case.
Then you can drop the board in by just holding the CPU cooler tower ;)
 

vector824

Member
Nice rig.
A tip for the future, install the CPU, RAM and CPU cooler onto the motherboard before putting the board in the case.
Then you can drop the board in by just holding the CPU cooler tower ;)

Thanks man. Yeah it screams.

Or instead of spending on super expensive m2 ssd he could get better gpu

Also let's just say that money you paid for 950 pro could have given you 850 evo + bump to 16 GB of ram or upgrade to i7

Valid. It all depends on your preferences. I need that 950 as a fast video scratch disk and program start ups are instantaneous.
 
I've got a question about upgrading my CPU/RAM =)

I ordered this PC back in 2011, and last year upgraded my GPU to a GTX 970 to help keep it going. The CPU is an i7 2600k, and the RAM is listed as "16GB KINGSTON HYPER-X GENESIS DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz, X.M.P (4 x 4GB KIT)". I'm assuming that might be more useful to you guys than 16GB of 1600mhz RAM =P

Anyway, I've finally run into a game (Fallout 4) I adore that is bottle-necked by the CPU and apparently even the RAM. I'm playing at 40-60fps, and whenever I'm below 60fps the GPU usage is also below 100%, sometimes as low as 65%. Presumably that means the CPU and/or RAM is holding me back. I haven't noticed any other game being an issue here (even the Witcher 3 still has me GPU bottle-necked) but now that I've put over 100 hours into Fallout 4 and still play it more than most other games, I'm thinking an upgrade will be worth it.

How do I know which CPU and RAM configs my motherboard can use? I don't want to buy the latest CPU and fastest RAM, only to find they won't work. And maybe I should try overlocking my current CPU first? I'm not sure how to safely go about doing that either though. My motherboard is listed as an "ASUS® P8P67 PRO (NEW REV 3.0): USB 3.0/SATA 6Gb/s, CrossFireX™ & SLI".

Would really appreciate any advice! Not sure whether to upgrade, overclock, or simply consider buying a whole new PC if my motherboard can't support anything significantly better than what it already has. Many thanks for reading =)
 
D

Deleted member 245925

Unconfirmed Member
I've got a question about upgrading my CPU/RAM =)

I ordered this PC back in 2011, and last year upgraded my GPU to a GTX 970 to help keep it going. The CPU is an i7 2600k, and the RAM is listed as "16GB KINGSTON HYPER-X GENESIS DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz, X.M.P (4 x 4GB KIT)". I'm assuming that might be more useful to you guys than 16GB of 1600mhz RAM =P

Anyway, I've finally run into a game (Fallout 4) I adore that is bottle-necked by the CPU and apparently even the RAM. I'm playing at 40-60fps, and whenever I'm below 60fps the GPU usage is also below 100%, sometimes as low as 65%. Presumably that means the CPU and/or RAM is holding me back. I haven't noticed any other game being an issue here (even the Witcher 3 still has me GPU bottle-necked) but now that I've put over 100 hours into Fallout 4 and still play it more than most other games, I'm thinking an upgrade will be worth it.

How do I know which CPU and RAM configs my motherboard can use? I don't want to buy the latest CPU and fastest RAM, only to find they won't work. And maybe I should try overlocking my current CPU first? I'm not sure how to safely go about doing that either though. My motherboard is listed as an "ASUS® P8P67 PRO (NEW REV 3.0): USB 3.0/SATA 6Gb/s, CrossFireX™ & SLI".

Would really appreciate any advice! Not sure whether to upgrade, overclock, or simply consider buying a whole new PC if my motherboard can't support anything significantly better than what it already has. Many thanks for reading =)

Your motherboard has a socket 1155, meaning the latest CPU you can use is an i7 3770k. You could try to buy one used, but I'm not sure how much of an upgrade that would effectively be. If you haven't overclocked your 2600k, that would be a good option since it's a really good CPU for overclocking. A quick search led me to an overclocking guide for your board and CPU combo, if you are interested. Another option would be to buy a new motherboard, CPU and RAM, which basically is almost a new PC.
 

LilJoka

Member
I've got a question about upgrading my CPU/RAM =)

I ordered this PC back in 2011, and last year upgraded my GPU to a GTX 970 to help keep it going. The CPU is an i7 2600k, and the RAM is listed as "16GB KINGSTON HYPER-X GENESIS DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz, X.M.P (4 x 4GB KIT)". I'm assuming that might be more useful to you guys than 16GB of 1600mhz RAM =P

Anyway, I've finally run into a game (Fallout 4) I adore that is bottle-necked by the CPU and apparently even the RAM. I'm playing at 40-60fps, and whenever I'm below 60fps the GPU usage is also below 100%, sometimes as low as 65%. Presumably that means the CPU and/or RAM is holding me back. I haven't noticed any other game being an issue here (even the Witcher 3 still has me GPU bottle-necked) but now that I've put over 100 hours into Fallout 4 and still play it more than most other games, I'm thinking an upgrade will be worth it.

How do I know which CPU and RAM configs my motherboard can use? I don't want to buy the latest CPU and fastest RAM, only to find they won't work. And maybe I should try overlocking my current CPU first? I'm not sure how to safely go about doing that either though. My motherboard is listed as an "ASUS® P8P67 PRO (NEW REV 3.0): USB 3.0/SATA 6Gb/s, CrossFireX™ & SLI".

Would really appreciate any advice! Not sure whether to upgrade, overclock, or simply consider buying a whole new PC if my motherboard can't support anything significantly better than what it already has. Many thanks for reading =)

If you have a Z series board then get a decent air cooler and overclock the CPU. See how much that effects the performance. You might come back to the RAM afterwards since the CPU overclock should be more effective than a RAM speed boost.
 

Vipu

Banned
I've got a question about upgrading my CPU/RAM =)

I ordered this PC back in 2011, and last year upgraded my GPU to a GTX 970 to help keep it going. The CPU is an i7 2600k, and the RAM is listed as "16GB KINGSTON HYPER-X GENESIS DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz, X.M.P (4 x 4GB KIT)". I'm assuming that might be more useful to you guys than 16GB of 1600mhz RAM =P

Anyway, I've finally run into a game (Fallout 4) I adore that is bottle-necked by the CPU and apparently even the RAM. I'm playing at 40-60fps, and whenever I'm below 60fps the GPU usage is also below 100%, sometimes as low as 65%. Presumably that means the CPU and/or RAM is holding me back. I haven't noticed any other game being an issue here (even the Witcher 3 still has me GPU bottle-necked) but now that I've put over 100 hours into Fallout 4 and still play it more than most other games, I'm thinking an upgrade will be worth it.

How do I know which CPU and RAM configs my motherboard can use? I don't want to buy the latest CPU and fastest RAM, only to find they won't work. And maybe I should try overlocking my current CPU first? I'm not sure how to safely go about doing that either though. My motherboard is listed as an "ASUS® P8P67 PRO (NEW REV 3.0): USB 3.0/SATA 6Gb/s, CrossFireX™ & SLI".

Would really appreciate any advice! Not sure whether to upgrade, overclock, or simply consider buying a whole new PC if my motherboard can't support anything significantly better than what it already has. Many thanks for reading =)

That cpu clocks like mad, go spend some time to check guides how to do it and you will get massive boost.
 

wihio

Member
I am looking to finally upgrade my old i7 930 system that has been the best dollar for dollar of any computer build I have done. This baby has held out for years! Time to move on though.

I will be reusing my HDs (3tb WD Black, 250gb Crucial SSD), potentially my case (old Antec 300 series) and definitely my power supply (Corsair tx850w Enthusiast Series). I have a good keyboard, mouse and monitor already. I may go for a new case as well and would love to get one that is somewhat silent.

I plan on grabbing an 8gb 480 at the end of June (or whenever I can) to replace my old 7950.

I have found the hardest part of the build is deciding on a Motherboard. My current rig has a Gigabyte x58a-UD3R, which has been great. I am totally willing to change this up and have been really eyeing ASUS boards. From my own research, I feel like the z170-PRO looks like a winner, but I would be willing to go up if it was worth it. I see the Sabertooth Mark 1 as similar in price with some key differences, also some PRO Gaming models, and even the Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO. My intentions for this desktop will be gaming, photo editing, light video editing, and general business. I really would love to see it last me as long as my current build has. Overclocking my i7 930 to 4ghz was essential for this, and I hope to push the new i7 6700k when needed.

Does anyone have any succinct opinions regarding the many ASUS boards available in the $150-$200 range? Overclocking, durability, and gaming are definitely priorities. The current pieces are below:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($324.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($98.00 @ Newegg)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $671.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-18 19:42 EDT-0400
 

asdad123

Member
I'm guessing my PSU died on me today. My computer was working great until I tried turning it on tonight. It boot for a couple seconds and resets itself and keeps doing it until I unplug the PSU from the wall. Doesn't even get to the motherboard boot screen.

Everything on the PC is new parts apart from the PSU (Power PC Silencer MK 3 600 Watt) and GPU (980ti).

This is the PSU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703036



I tried the usual steps (boot without GPU, Boot with 1 HDD, Boot with 1 ram stick) and it kept doing the same. Only thing it can be is the PSU?

Any suggestions for a new PSU? I'm running a 6700k and 980ti.
 
I'm guessing my PSU died on me today. My computer was working great until I tried turning it on tonight. It boot for a couple seconds and resets itself and keeps doing it until I unplug the PSU from the wall. Doesn't even get to the motherboard boot screen.

Everything on the PC is new parts apart from the PSU (Power PC Silencer MK 3 600 Watt) and GPU (980ti).

This is the PSU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703036



I tried the usual steps (boot without GPU, Boot with 1 HDD, Boot with 1 ram stick) and it kept doing the same. Only thing it can be is the PSU?

Any suggestions for a new PSU? I'm running a 6700k and 980ti.

Are you overclocking? When did you build the system? It does sound like a faulty PSU.
 

asdad123

Member
Are you overclocking? When did you build the system? It does sound like a faulty PSU.

Had a slight overclock to 4.2, however I reset the CMOS which would throw it back to stock, and it's still happening.

I built this about 3 weeks ago. Like I said, all parts are new apart from the PSU and the GPU. The PSU is just under 2 years old.

The PC is:

i7 6700k
Gigabyte Gaming GT ATX Motherboard
16gb ram
980TI
500GB SSD
1TB HDD
 
Had a slight overclock to 4.2, however I reset the CMOS which would throw it back to stock, and it's still happening.

I built this about 3 weeks ago. Like I said, all parts are new apart from the PSU and the GPU. The PSU is just under 2 years old.

The PC is:

i7 6700k
Gigabyte Gaming GT ATX Motherboard
16gb ram
980TI
500GB SSD
1TB HDD
Oh, didn't realize the PSU isn't new. Hm, if you have a local PC shop maybe bring your PSU down there with you. I did that at mine and they had a gizmo for testing power supplies. Obviously swapping out the PSU would work if you have an extra or could borrow one from someone.

I guess it could be the motherboard, though that seems unlikely. Do you have an old system or parts floating around?
 

asdad123

Member
Oh, didn't realize the PSU isn't new. Hm, if you have a local PC shop maybe bring your PSU down there with you. I did that at mine and they had a gizmo for testing power supplies. Obviously swapping out the PSU would work if you have an extra or could borrow one from someone.

I guess it could be the motherboard, though that seems unlikely. Do you have an old system or parts floating around?

I really hope its not a motherboard problem, as that would be a pain in the ass to swap out.

No spare parts, but there is a micro center near by. I am going to pick up a new PSU tomorrow and hopefully that solves it.. If not, then it'll be fun figuring out what it is.

It was working perfectly fine for 3 weeks until today.
 
I need help finding a good external enclosure or docking bay for 4 SATA hdd's I want to put my 3.5's outside of age to cut down on heat in it.
 

Mortemis

Banned
Hey guys. I'm starting to lean more and more into building my first PC, instead of getting into this iterative consoles business. I haven't fully decided on it yet, but right now I'm just looking around and getting a good feel for how much things would cost if I do decide to go for it. I'm currently looking at gaming @ 1080p60fps, don't think I need any more than that.

Looking at the builds in the OP, I was thinking of maybe going for the great - best value build, but throwing in a RX 480 instead. Does that sound like a solid build? For more info on my needs, the only thing I'm really looking to do with this is gaming, I have a pretty solid macbook that I do everything else with.

Also I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask about monitors, but does this one seem like a good one for 1080p60fps gaming?: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0148NNKU6/?tag=neogaf0e-20 I'm looking for something fairly large, so 27in is my preference.

Thanks in advance!
 

R0ckman

Member
Was using newegg and lost an attempt for a 1080 because it was forcing me to sign in? Strangely enough, I always use my phone and there is usually a paypal option?

Any explanation for this?

Edit: Nvm was an idiot and clicked secure check out instead of paypal which only appears when you scroll dow further. Really wish your items were locked in during reaching a point in check out.
 

PBalfredo

Member
Came back from shopping at Fry's Electronics on the same day my GTX 1080 arrived in the mail. Ready to start building

2B4bzF3.jpg

Case: Thermaltake Suppressor F31
CPU: Intel i5 6600K
CPU Cooling: Enermax T40F-RF Cooler
Mobo: MSI Z170A PC Mate
GPU: GTX 1080 FE
Power: Logisys 650w
RAM: DDR4 32GB 2666 MHz
SSD: Toshiba 120GB OCZ Trion
HDD: HGST Deskstar 4TB
And a copy of Windows 10

I think that's everything I need. Hopefully everything works together like its suppose to. The CPU fan looks pretty intimidating, considering this is the first PC I've built in over a decade, and previous ones have been pretty budget conscious.

Also how many case fans should I have? My case came with two, one in the front and one in the back, but the manual shows that it has room for two more on the bottom, and three on the top. I don't plan on overclocking and would like to keep things relatively quiet, but I also want to make sure the 1080 stays cool and happy, so what would be optimal?
 
Your motherboard has a socket 1155, meaning the latest CPU you can use is an i7 3770k. You could try to buy one used, but I'm not sure how much of an upgrade that would effectively be. If you haven't overclocked your 2600k, that would be a good option since it's a really good CPU for overclocking. A quick search led me to an overclocking guide for your board and CPU combo, if you are interested. Another option would be to buy a new motherboard, CPU and RAM, which basically is almost a new PC.

If you have a Z series board then get a decent air cooler and overclock the CPU. See how much that effects the performance. You might come back to the RAM afterwards since the CPU overclock should be more effective than a RAM speed boost.

That cpu clocks like mad, go spend some time to check guides how to do it and you will get massive boost.

Thanks guys! A 3770 wouldn't be a big enough jump imo, so I'll look into overclocking this morning and see how it goes. Hopefully I don't break anything =P This CPU is genuinely water cooled as well, but it's a plug-in-and-forget-about-it cooler from 2011, so hopefully it's still up to the task today.

I don't really want to build a whole new computer until I can get away with just having one big SSD, like 2TB, instead of continuing to use a small/medium sized SSD C Drive and a big HDD D Drive. Looks like that's a couple more years away.
 
The CPU fan looks pretty intimidating, considering this is the first PC I've built in over a decade, and previous ones have been pretty budget conscious.

Just be careful, as that fan apparently lacks memory clearance, so if all your RAM slots are occupied and the sticks are tall it may be a tight fit. Be sure to put the RAM in first.


Also how many case fans should I have? My case came with two, one in the front and one in the back, but the manual shows that it has room for two more on the bottom, and three on the top. I don't plan on overclocking and would like to keep things relatively quiet, but I also want to make sure the 1080 stays cool and happy, so what would be optimal?

If your chief concern is keeping cool and your case has enough dust filters, I'd maybe add another case fan as an exhaust (top or side). More exhaust means more cool air being pulled in from outside to compensate for the vacuum, but also means more dust can come with it.

Have fun you bastard, I'm jealous of that 1080 ;)
 
This CPU is genuinely water cooled as well, but it's a plug-in-and-forget-about-it cooler from 2011, so hopefully it's still up to the task today.

Okay, screw that. Cooler is definitely NOT up to the task. Overclocking even to 4.2ghz sends CPU temps screaming towards 75 degrees in stress tests. I stopped the tests at that point, so they probably would have gone higher. At default settings (3.8ghz) I can get the temps as high as 67 degrees under stress, so that only gives me a few extra degrees to play with. Honestly, I'd rather not risk that for the minor boost I'd be able to gain. Might look into buying a new cooler this week though =)

However, I also noticed my 1600mhz RAM has permanently been running at 1333mhz while poking around in the BIOS. Apparently the label on my RAM sticks should tell me the settings (like voltages etc) I need to change to make use of 1600mhz? Anyone know how to make sense of this info below? Man, there are a LOT of numbers and letters... Would be nice if I could just change the speed to 1600mhz and do nothing else, but apparently that might cause issues?

27732015696_1a8f31df09_b.jpg
 
I hate the idea of gsync and freesync. You have to double down basically on the card manufacturer because a good monitor can last you longer than card.

anyone else disappointed pascal is still not fully dx12 compatible?
 
Guys I'm looking for a mini itx z170 mono, right now I'm using a i5 6600k and a noctua nh -d14, and 3000 RAM. Also I'm planning to build it inside a fractal core 500 will it support my PSU cooler master v750 semi modular?
 

Vuze

Member
Guys I'm looking for a mini itx z170 mono, right now I'm using a i5 6600k and a noctua nh -d14, and 3000 RAM. Also I'm planning to build it inside a fractal core 500 will it support my PSU cooler master v750 semi modular?
Yes, the case supports ATX PSUs. Your CPU cooler should also fit closely (Fractal states 170mm max height, the NH14 is 160 + fans). Don't have any experience with the MoBo segment you're looking for.
 
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