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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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asdad123

Member
It's extremely rare, but maybe it's the CPU. Always the hardest to troubleshoot.
It's not a matter of wattage. Just PSU quality and functioning. Any mediocre PSU should atleast boot your system.

Well I'll find out tomorrow I guess. I'll try the new PSU and if it doesn't work, I'll start rma on the 6700k. It just sucks cause the processor is only 21 days old.

Hopefully microcenter lets me exchange it in store even though it's over 15 days. They let me do it with the motherboard today.
 
What's everyone's take on extremely thin vertical lines across the monitor? They're barrrreeeely visible.

Is it a GPU problem or a monitor problem?

My GPU temps are normal. Idle 39c; Heavy gaming 70c. Testing for artifacts on EVGA's OC Scanner X and came back with 0 on all benchmarks.

My monitor refresh rate was 59hz. Switched to 60hz and nothing. I recently bought my GTX970. What's happening????


Edit:


lgrVXhC.jpg
Does it do it in the bios? If so, switch to onboard graphics. Still there?

If still present, try a different cable connection or monitor.
 

IronWarrior

Neo Member
These only work if you are on the same power circuit between the two outlets you want to connect together.

Pretty sure they are. So ideally from the wiring point of view I should be good, just need to find a good adapter set that will work well for gaming. Getting dropped from too many WarCraft 3 matches :(
 
Around a month or so ago, my computer is having a hard time booting properly. It gets to the second splash screen and nothing happens around nine times out of ten bootups. I did my biannual reformat and this problem was extremely frustrating since I have to reboot many times throughout the reformatting process. It made me want to never turn off the computer again and only update when absolutely necessary.

Is there a program or something that can tell me what component may be failing? I don't want to play the guessing game of replacing each part one at a time; I might as well build a whole new computer.
 
Around a month or so ago, my computer is having a hard time booting properly. It gets to the second splash screen and nothing happens around nine times out of ten bootups. I did my biannual reformat and this problem was extremely frustrating since I have to reboot many times throughout the reformatting process. It made me want to never turn off the computer again and only update when absolutely necessary.

Is there a program or something that can tell me what component may be failing? I don't want to play the guessing game of replacing each part one at a time; I might as well build a whole new computer.

So it gets stuck before loading Win correct?

- Try disconnecting any USB device you have attached.
- SATA devices can cause this too sometimes, doesn't hurt to reconnect the cables or even try to boot with only the system disk (if you have more)
- Reseat your RAM sticks and try to boot with each of them alone.
 

PBalfredo

Member
I hooked up everything in my computer, but when I turned it on, it said to power down and connect the right power to my GPU. I have just one connector for my GPU that comes off of my power supply and the six pin plug fits in the 1080, but the two pin part does not. Do I need an adapter? A new power supply?


Also, since I have been using a laptop with built in wifi for the past half-decade, I totally forgot about making sure my new PC could go on to the internet. I'm in a house share situation and there is no ethernet outlet in my room and the router is in the living room, which sends out a wifi signal, but is way too far away and too cumbersome to run a cable from there. I have a coaxial cable outlet in my room, can I get something that converts it into ethernet that I can plug into my PC, even though the house already has one router? Or would that be seen by the cable company as something that would require a whole other cable subscription? I haven't had to deal with any of this stuff in forever. Worst case I guess I can just get a wifi receiver thing for my PC, but it would be nice to just plug right into the internet too if I can.
 
D

Deleted member 245925

Unconfirmed Member
I hooked up everything in my computer, but when I turned it on, it said to power down and connect the right power to my GPU. I have just one connector for my GPU that comes off of my power supply and the six pin plug fits in the 1080, but the two pin part does not. Do I need an adapter? A new power supply?

You're holding the two-pin connector on the wrong side of the six-pin connector. The clip of the combined eight-pin has to be in the center. Hold them together while plugging both in at the same time.
 

Zojirushi

Member
Would I have to worry about DX12 performance in the future on a 980ti?

Not necessarily only compared to AMD but also to Pascal GPUs.
 

Rizzi

Member
So, I asked a few days ago about the RX 480 compared to the R9 390X. Ignoring the power consumption on the 390X, is the RX 480 actually more powerful?
 

Saintruski

Unconfirmed Member
So, I asked a few days ago about the RX 480 compared to the R9 390X. Ignoring the power consumption on the 390X, is the RX 480 actually more powerful?


We're there any official benchmarks released yet, I've seen photoshopped fire strike ones that say it is, but those are photoshopped. I think it will be faster or as fast as the 970/980 and their AMD equiv which includes the 390X

Would I have to worry about DX12 performance in the future on a 980ti?

Not necessarily only compared to AMD but also to Pascal GPUs.

Not sure if it has the async preemption feature, or if it can be implemented but that's the one thing I remember them added that you don't want to miss out on.
 

Zojirushi

Member
Not sure if it has the async preemption feature, or if it can be implemented but that's the one thing I remember them added that you don't want to miss out on.

Hmm I'm just currently trying to weigh the reduced prices, availability and better overclocking headroom of a used 980ti against possible architecture improvements of a 1070, that would possibly leave the 980ti in the dust in future titles and can't be implemented via driver updates. Support for older cards doesn't seem to be nvidia's strong suit though.
 

Musician

Member
You need to tweak the memory controller voltage: VTT(VCCIO).
Vcore can be tweaked for XMP, but usually only needs a small bump of 0.01-0.04v.

You should start at a lower memory speed like 1600mhz first. It's possible your IMC just can't do 2133mhz.

And while you test, use a fixed VCORE not offset.

Thank you so much for the help.

It turns out that XMP set my VTT to 1.142. I've since lowered it to 1.22; any lower and it fails to boot.

Using a fixed Vcore allows me to lower the Vcore from 1.355 (at 100% using offset) to 1.296 (at 100% using fixed) and it seems stable enough so far. Is it possible that the or controller needs more volts than it's given when I'm using offset and it goes into idle (0.9ish volts)? Could I use offset with a higher level of LLC (currently minimum) to combat this? Or should I just stick to fixed since it's working?

Maybe I'm in the wrong thread for this since I don't need any help to buy stuff now, but I've really appreciated the help I've gotten thus far! A huge thank you for everyone who've taken their time. You've saved me a bunch of money as 100% load temps are now at 76*C max! No need for a new cooler! Woo!

Edit: Down to 1.264 now running prime for 1 hour. Almost a full .1v lower. So good...
 
Thanks. Picked up an extra case fan for the top. My CPU cooler says its "100% RAM compatible" but I'll make sure to put the RAM in first just to be safe.

Another thing: Be sure to point the fan in the right direction ;)

do we have any idea when AMD will announce/release the 490/490X cards?

Probably not before the end of the year. They're staking their claim firmly on the midrange for now. Actually the 3DMark FS benchmarks just landed and it looks like 2 480s in CF beat out the 1080, if that's of any interest. Of course, it's always preferable to have a single card, but still.
 
This might be out of place for this thread, but can anyone recommend an entry-level digitizer (I think that's the right term)? I'm looking for a tablet-like device that I can draw on with a pen/stylus basically for extremely rudimentary digital artwork.

Actually, what I want to do is replicate the Khan Academy-style educational drawing videos, but I don't need it to be quite as high quality, so an introductory-level digitizer should be fine. I have no idea what I should even be looking for in a digitizer, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Musician

Member
Still no reason to upgrade my i5 2500k? I see some people saying the i7 6700k is a worthy upgrade but others say not.

Thoughts?

Depends on your graphics card. If you're running bleeding edge hardware then you'd benefit from a newer architecture. If you're on more middle of the road stuff you can offset the difference by overclocking your cpu to 4.5ghz and getting faster ram (2133).

There's a whole video about it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frNjT5R5XI4

Edit: The thing is that the price/performance for upgrading to a 6700 from a 2500 isn't quite there yet. You need a new mobo, a new processor and new Ram which will cost more than the 10-15% increase in performance it gives you; money that would be better spent on a new GPU, for example.

If more titles begin to demand hyperthreading, then the i5 could be a problem as you need an i7 for that.
 

Matty8787

Member
Depends on your graphics card. If you're running bleeding edge hardware then you'd benefit from a newer architecture. If you're on more middle of the road stuff you can offset the difference by overclocking your cpu to 4.5ghz and getting faster ram (2133).

There's a whole video about it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frNjT5R5XI4

Edit: The thing is that the price/performance for upgrading to a 6700 from a 2500 isn't quite there yet. You need a new mobo, a new processor and new Ram which will cost more than the 10-15% increase in performance it gives you; money that would be better spent on a new GPU, for example.

If more titles begin to demand hyperthreading, then the i5 could be a problem as you need an i7 for that.

Ok good stuff I mean I guess it is time for an upgrade but it is going to set me back around £550.

I am currently running a gtx 1080 so the only viable upgrade is the processor.

My cpu is already oc to 4.6ghz.

Cheers for the reply.
 

Fishook

Member
Ready to drop some money on a new PC, I am worried the EU referendum on Thurs will increase prices as a I want a non-founders edition of a 1080 so waiting till they are cheaper, its a difficult decision to make.

Any advice
 

LogicStep

Member
Depends on your graphics card. If you're running bleeding edge hardware then you'd benefit from a newer architecture. If you're on more middle of the road stuff you can offset the difference by overclocking your cpu to 4.5ghz and getting faster ram (2133).

There's a whole video about it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frNjT5R5XI4

Edit: The thing is that the price/performance for upgrading to a 6700 from a 2500 isn't quite there yet. You need a new mobo, a new processor and new Ram which will cost more than the 10-15% increase in performance it gives you; money that would be better spent on a new GPU, for example.

If more titles begin to demand hyperthreading, then the i5 could be a problem as you need an i7 for that.
Are there any titles that demand that?
 
How does the Asus Z-87K match up with the Gigabyte Z87X-UD3H? Have a damaged version of the latter, wondering if I should simply get a replacement, or get the Asus motherboard.
 
I post this here maybe someone can help: I have a strange issue with my asus rog swift pg278q. It won't turn on unless I unplug and then plug back in the ac cord.

Whenever I turn it off completely or it goes into sleep mode, it won't turn back on.

If I do the plug/unplug thing it wakes up and works perfectly fine.

I'm guessing it's the ac adapter that's going bad; could it also be a problem related to the multi-outlet it's plugged into?
 
I post this here maybe someone can help: I have a strange issue with my asus rog swift pg278q. It won't turn on unless I unplug and then plug back in the ac cord.

Whenever I turn it off completely or it goes into sleep mode, it won't turn back on.

If I do the plug/unplug thing it wakes up and works perfectly fine.

I'm guessing it's the ac adapter that's going bad; could it also be a problem related to the multi-outlet it's plugged into?
Well, try plugging it directly into the wall and see if it makes a difference.

I would probably call up Asus.
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
It doesn't have any kind of hard limit to 2133- it's just very hard to hit 2400 on them since their IMC isn't good enough.

I've been running my Gskill TridentX 2400 CL10 on 2500k at 2286 CL9 T1 speeds before moving to Haswell.

Ah, right.
 

coolasj19

Why are you reading my tag instead of the title of my post?
Okay... I am losing my mind. I need your help PC-Gaf. As you can see above, I am having problems with my recently built PC. Specs w I ?

Take your RAM out and mount it again. Yes, I know you've mounted it right and made sure and triple checked. But this time, MAKE SURE IT'S MOUNTED RIGHT. Get eye level with that thing. It doesn't seem like it's it if you're getting red lights. But make sure. Make sure all the RAM is good. Use one stick and swap them out.

Now for MY problem. I bought this pcpartpicker.com/product/R998TW/aoc-monitor-g2460pg monitor. My motherboard doesn't have a Displayport I/O. I don't have my graphics card cause EVGA and Amazon just... whatever. I went to Best Buy and got a Displayport to HDMI cable. Plugged it in. Doesn't work.

Is this just not gonna work until I get the GPU?

EDIT: Further research has revealed to me that it is either literally impossible for an HDMI Source to output a DisplayPort feed or only possible with a $100+ adapter. Welp. Guess I'm waiting for Amazon and EVGA to get their shit together.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thank you so much for the help.

It turns out that XMP set my VTT to 1.142. I've since lowered it to 1.22; any lower and it fails to boot.

Using a fixed Vcore allows me to lower the Vcore from 1.355 (at 100% using offset) to 1.296 (at 100% using fixed) and it seems stable enough so far. Is it possible that the or controller needs more volts than it's given when I'm using offset and it goes into idle (0.9ish volts)? Could I use offset with a higher level of LLC (currently minimum) to combat this? Or should I just stick to fixed since it's working?

Maybe I'm in the wrong thread for this since I don't need any help to buy stuff now, but I've really appreciated the help I've gotten thus far! A huge thank you for everyone who've taken their time. You've saved me a bunch of money as 100% load temps are now at 76*C max! No need for a new cooler! Woo!

Edit: Down to 1.264 now running prime for 1 hour. Almost a full .1v lower. So good...

With those results, do you think you are in the wrong thread ;)

Lack of VTT, or incorrect VTT (more is not always better with VTT) can be compensated by Vcore (to some extent).
Setting the VTT properly has meant the Vcore can be dropped.
Now try to go back to offset, offset with low LLC is always a safe method, since the lower multipliers will not be starved of Vcore in transient loads. But offset normally always needs a bit more voltage overall to get stability over a fixed vcore. Usually an additional 0.02-0.05v.

Increasing LLC will not help, leave it enabled, but at the lowest setting, or a medium setting. Then tweak the offset so that you get near the fixed vcore peak you find in your current tests.

If offset still isnt working for you, try disabling C6 state in the cpu power savings speedstep options.
 

Type2

Member
Hey, its upgrade time again and the new gtx cards look very appealing to me.
What if anything do you guys/gals think I should salvage out of my current pc?
Or should I just get everything brand new and use it as a living room hub?

Notes: I am a game developer and need input on monitors as I work from home frequently.

Current specs:
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600K CPU @ 3.40GHz
Corsair Graphite Series 600T Black Steel
CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Semi-Modular Active PFC ATX PC Power Supply Performance Grade
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 ST1000DM005/HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
XFX Radeon HD 6950 DirectX 11 HD-695A-CNFC 2GB 256-Bit GDDR5
ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Card
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus - CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes
ASUS P8P67 LE (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
I also have 3 256gb ssds with different OSs


Now this baby is pretty old so im assuming moving to DDR4, new mobo, GTX 1070 and then I need some advice on monitors to suite my needs. My current set up is a PX 2710mW pair made by Planar. I need color accuracy, a resolution bump but as far as refresh rate, g sync and all that im in the dark.
 

Musician

Member
With those results, do you think you are in the wrong thread ;)

Lack of VTT, or incorrect VTT (more is not always better with VTT) can be compensated by Vcore (to some extent).
Setting the VTT properly has meant the Vcore can be dropped.
Now try to go back to offset, offset with low LLC is always a safe method, since the lower multipliers will not be starved of Vcore in transient loads. But offset normally always needs a bit more voltage overall to get stability over a fixed vcore. Usually an additional 0.02-0.05v.

Point well made... and taken!

I'll see about getting back to offset tomorrow, I think. I've spent enough time fiddling with voltages for one day.
 

Megabat

Member
Hey, its upgrade time again and the new gtx cards look very appealing to me.
What if anything do you guys/gals think I should salvage out of my current pc?
Or should I just get everything brand new and use it as a living room hub?

Notes: I am a game developer and need input on monitors as I work from home frequently.

Current specs:
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600K CPU @ 3.40GHz
Corsair Graphite Series 600T Black Steel
CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Semi-Modular Active PFC ATX PC Power Supply Performance Grade
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 ST1000DM005/HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
XFX Radeon HD 6950 DirectX 11 HD-695A-CNFC 2GB 256-Bit GDDR5
ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Card
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus - CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes
ASUS P8P67 LE (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
I also have 3 256gb ssds with different OSs


Now this baby is pretty old so im assuming moving to DDR4, new mobo, GTX 1070 and then I need some advice on monitors to suite my needs. My current set up is a PX 2710mW pair made by Planar. I need color accuracy, a resolution bump but as far as refresh rate, g sync and all that im in the dark.

Do you feel your Sandy Bridge i7 becoming inadequate? And you haven't overclocked it? If I were you, I would just get the 2600K above 4.0GHz, pick up 16GB of DDR3, and buy that new GPU.
 

vector824

Member
I noticed the DDR4-3000 RAM I have installed on my computer is actually running at 2133. If there any way to fix this?

I had to go into the BIOS on my motherboard to "overclock" the ram to 3000. DDR4 is set at 2133 as a default and it has to be changed.
 

beastlove

Member
Looking for a bit of advice. For the majority of my life, I have been a console gamer. I did have a PC for a few years when the original Doom first appeared but eventually got sick of boot discs and driver problems, and eventually when back to consoles with the PS1. Anyway, all the recent talk of PS4K and my PS4 starting to sound like a jet engine have made me wonder if I should return to PC gaming using the steam link. I do have a few questions and was wondering if fellow Gaffers can help.

Does anyone use their PC purely for games in their living room?

How does the experience compare to a console, which is designed for playing games on a TV?

Can I use a controller rather than a mouse and keyboard for online gaming? I would prefer not to use a mouse and keyboard at all.

Is it simple enough for an 8-year-old kid to use?

Are boot disc, driver problems and general messing around a thing of the past with PC gaming?

Is it better to use the steam link or build a small form PC?
 
I'm at work right now so I can't really watch it. So there is a big difference in performance between the i5 6600k and i7 6700k for games like these?


Negligible differences between those two. The Youtube video I link mainly addresses the jump from 2500K and the 6500.
 
All right, I could use your help dudes.

I got a new job, basically doing software and app development for a medical company. This place is pretty behind the times so I'm going to be modernizing stuff for them as much as possible.

They're willing to buy the PC I need. Budget is $2k.

I'll be using Visual Studio, Unity, Photoshop, and some light video editing in Premiere. Nothing crazy, just basic videos. I'll also be hooking into their database and trying to make sense of it and use the data in in-house apps. I'm also doing some simple educational games. No crazy tessellation or crazy shader effects, mostly really basic stuff. Think Crossy Road at the high end of what I'd be developing.

I'll need a monitor/2 monitors in that budget as well.

Can you help me, GAF? Gimme something with at least 16GB RAM, an SSD for the OS and main programs, and a decent CPU.

I'm counting on you guys!
 
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