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[Hero of Time]

Reapply thermal paste?

I've been considering doing that, would be quite a coincidence though if it was the thermal paste giving out right after I made these changes to the PC. How long does thermal paste stay good for? my CPU should be around 2 years old now.

Is it possible the pump is running too slowly? Did you swap it from a 3-pin fan header to a 4-pin header? I don't use liquid coolers but AFAIK you want the pumps to run at full speed, so if you use a PWM fan header and don't set it to maximum you may run into trouble.

LilJoka and kennah will know more than me about this though, fo sho.

Well, the cable coming out of the pump is a 3 pin cable, but thats hardwired in, so its always been that way.

 

[opticalmace]

I've been considering doing that, would be quite a coincidence though if it was the thermal paste giving out right after I made these changes to the PC. How long does thermal paste stay good for? my CPU should be around 2 years old now.



Well, the cable coming out of the pump is a 3 pin cable, but thats hardwired in, so its always been that way.

I mean more the connector on the motherboard. Maybe check the manual and ensure it's pushing as much voltage by default as is needed?

 

[kuYuri]

So here's my almost new rig. Wanted to get a consensus before I bought it. Building this by myself would have saved me about $70, but I would gladly use that to have one built and ready for me to use.

Fathers Day Featured Promotions: CM Storm Devastator ­ LED Gaming Keyboard/Mouse Combo (Black Color w/ Blue Light)
Gaming Chassis: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid­Tower Gaming Case w/ USB 3.0, Side­Panel Window (Titanium Green)
Extra Case Fans: Default case fans
CPU: Intel® Core™ Processor i7­6700K 4.00GHZ 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1151 (Skylake)
CPU / Processor Cooling Fan: Corsair Hydro H100i V2 240mm Liquid CPU Cooling System w/ Copper Cold Plate ­ Extreme Cooling Performance [+86] (2 x Standard
120MM Fans)
Coolant for Cyberpower Xtreme Hydro Water Cooling Kits: None
Motherboard: GIGABYTE G1.Sniper Z170 SLI ATX w/ USB 3.1, 3 PCIe x16, 2 PCIe x1, 3 SATA Express, 6 SATA3, 1 Ultra M.2 [+12]
RAM / System Memory: 16GB (8GBx2) DDR4/2800MHz Dual Channel Memory [­38] (ADATA XPG Z1)
Video Card: GeForce® GTX 1070 8GB GDDR5 (Pascal)[VR Ready] [­220] (Single Card)
Power Supply: 650 Watts ­ Corsair CX650M CX Series Modular 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply [+36]
Hard Drive: 120GB Intel 540s SSD + 2TB SATA III Hard Drive Combo [­33] (Combo Drive)
Optical Drive: ASUS 24X Internal multi DVD­Writer / 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R [­46] (BLACK COLOR)
Sound: HIGH DEFINITION ON­BOARD 7.1 AUDIO
Internal Network Card: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network
USB Hub & Port: Built­in USB 2.0 Ports
Operating System: Windows 10 Home (64­bit Edition)
Suite: Office 2016
Service: STANDARD WARRANTY: 3­YEAR [3 Year Labor, 1 Year Parts] LIMITED WARRANTY PLUS LIFE­TIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT
*_PRICE: (+1572)

I could cut the price by $116 by bringing the CPU down to an i5 6600K 3.5ghz that I can overclock (not sure if I have sufficient cooling for that). This rig will be primarily for 1080p gaming and VR by the end of the year at least.

You have more than sufficient cooling for overclocking with the H100i V2.

It's a solid build.

 

[luoapp]

I've been considering doing that, would be quite a coincidence though if it was the thermal paste giving out right after I made these changes to the PC. How long does thermal paste stay good for? my CPU should be around 2 years old now.
.

The paste may still be good, just it's a (relatively) easy thing to do if you still have a half tube lying around.

 

[Daingurse]

Re-posting to try and get some advice:

Hi guys. I'm thinking about finally upgrading from my LGA 1366 rig with an i7 980, and just wanted to know what CPU I need to get to make this a worthwhile upgrade. I came into my 980x through a generous Dell system exchange, so I am by no means made out of money!

I was kind bouncing between the 5820k and 6770k, but wanted to know what Gaf thought. Hell, can I roll with my 980x a bit longer? I almost want more modern motherboard features than anything else, but gaming wise is there any real need to upgrade? Because that's what I really care about, and I can just save the money for a new GPU.

 

[opticalmace]

Re-posting to try and get some advice:

Hm, well what do you use your system for?

 

[appaws]

Hi guys. I'm thinking of getting into PC gaming (I'm currently all consoles), and with all the talk about the GTX 1080 and 1070, this seems like a pretty good time? I would primarily be interested in building something that could last me a good while without having to tinker with upgrading it too much too soon.

What do you guys think of this setup?

• Power supply: Corsair VS550 550W KPC Bulk Edition
• Processor: Intel Core i5-6500 Skylake
• Motherboard: ASUS Z170-P, Socket-1151
• RAM: Crucial DDR4 2133MHz 16GB (2x8GB)
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Founders Edition
• SSD: Kingston SSD UV300 240GB
• Storage: Seagate Barracuda® 1TB

I guess it's a no-brainer upgrading to 32 GB RAM rather than the 16 that's here?
What about the processor? Is the jump up from an i5-6500 to (for example) an i7-6700 so considerable that I should go big here instead?

Also, I feel like there are a lot more options and a lot more to consider when it comes to monitors nowadays: what would be a good monitor to get the most out of a rig along the lines of that above? G-sync, freesync and whatnot is getting me a bit confused..
Sorry if any of these are stupid questions, I bet many of them have been answered many times before, so sorry for the repetition as well.

If you are going to spend the money on a 1080, then I would probably go with at least a 2560 by 1440 display. G-sync would be a great choice.

I would not get the founders edition card. Get one from one of the other vendors, like Asus, MSI, EVGA, Etc. Better performance and cooling.

32 gigs of RAM is fine...but for gaming it is not going to do much over what 16 would. If you use other memory intensive applications, then it is good, especially considering memory is pretty cheap now.

You should go with a K series (unlocked) processor to go with that Z170 motherboard. i5 is good if it is mostly a gaming PC...if you are doing photo, video, rendering type of stuff...then an i7 is a good choice.

I would not buy a Corsair power supply at the low to mid-range. (Their high end models are great.) Look at some of the models from EVGA and SeaSonic. JohnnyGuru is the best review site for power supplies.

Maybe a bigger SSD...? They are getting pretty cheap, and you seem to have a pretty big budget.

Something like this:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/thtf7h
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/thtf7h/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($314.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($157.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($127.75 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB STRIX Video Card
Case: NZXT H440 (Matte Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1047.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-17 22:11 EDT-0400

 

[LilJoka]

So my 4770k with attached corsair h60 liquid cooler has starting reaching temps of 91c while gaming (was always around 67c before) ever since I made some upgrades to my PC and I'm not sure why the changes I made would cause this.

The only things I changed in my PC were my power supply and I attached an evga hybrid liquid cooler on my GPU. Although to install the GPU cooler I had to move my CPU radiator from the top center position to the top front of the case. Friend of mine claims the CPU radiator isn't getting enough airflow now in its new location but I'm not so sure, its location isn't that far off from where it was before and the temperature rise since the upgrades is insane. Here is a quick paint diagram I made to illustrate the airflow situation in my case.

http://i.imgur.com/l6J2dDy.png?1[/im
Already tried switching the CPU radiator fan from exhaust to intake and it didn't make any difference.[/QUOTE]

Do an ear test, the pump should be powered by sata, so stick your ear near the block and unplug the pump then plug it back in, make sure you hear the difference - that'll tell you it's actually spun up to some degree.

What are the ambient temps like?

The pump rad has been cleaned of dust?

When my H80i failed the pump got louder and temps went up by 10-20c, so it could be on its way out.

As suggested make sure the fan header the pump connects to is set to run at full speed.

 

[DontMindMe]

So CyberPowerPC is recommended if I just want the PC built for me, right?

Any recommended builds on there with a budget of about $2500? Want to upgrade to something VR ready/High end that I hopefully won't need to upgrade for a long time.

EDIT: Looking at https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/CyberPower_Black_Pearl but there are probably some adjustments I could make.

 

[Daingurse]

Hm, well what do you use your system for?

Gaming, web browsing, and multimedia.

 

[8bitForLife]

Warframe was constantly crashing on me so it up being a whole new computer build and I ended up with this.

ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Express x1 Interface Sound Card

Intel Core i7-6800K 15M Broadwell-E 6-Core 3.4 GHz LGA 2011-v3 140W

MSI Gaming Z170A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM EDITION LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard

Corsair Hydro Series H110i GT High Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler

G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 (PC4 24000) Intel Z170 Desktop Memory

Corsair CC-9011078-WW 750D Airflow Edition Black Computer Case

EVGA 220-GS-0850-V1 80 PLUS GOLD 850

Now I rmad my 780gtx to evga so I'm hoping I get something good in return

 

[kami_sama]

A strange problem hunt popped up in my pc.
While watching a Youtube video the screen will freeze up in a weird way and the audio will start looping. Needs two restarts, the first time the gpu fans keep spinning at top speed and no signal will come up.
The strange thing is that temps seem OK and it doesn't happen while talking, only videos.
I have a 7950 with the latest drivers on Windows 10.

If anyone could direct me to any way to test the gpu, it would be great.

Sounds like the GPU is on the way out. Try rolling back to an earlier driver and see if it makes a difference.

Well shit. I just woke up and the pc doesn't post with the gpu inside. Integrated graphics work, but only if I disconnect the dedicated card.
Will have to check one more time.

Edit: Had the strangest problem. After removing the gpu, I tried getting into Windows and it kept restarting, not even posting. After removing one of the ram sticks it worked. Tried again with two sticks and worked. Wtf is happening with my computer?

 

[RedRum]

If you are going to spend the money on a 1080, then I would probably go with at least a 2560 by 1440 display. G-sync would be a great choice.

I would not get the founders edition card. Get one from one of the other vendors, like Asus, MSI, EVGA, Etc. Better performance and cooling.

32 gigs of RAM is fine...but for gaming it is not going to do much over what 16 would. If you use other memory intensive applications, then it is good, especially considering memory is pretty cheap now.

You should go with a K series (unlocked) processor to go with that Z170 motherboard. i5 is good if it is mostly a gaming PC...if you are doing photo, video, rendering type of stuff...then an i7 is a good choice.

I would not buy a Corsair power supply at the low to mid-range. (Their high end models are great.) Look at some of the models from EVGA and SeaSonic. JohnnyGuru is the best review site for power supplies.

Maybe a bigger SSD...? They are getting pretty cheap, and you seem to have a pretty big budget.

Something like this:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/thtf7h
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/thtf7h/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($314.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($157.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($127.75 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB STRIX Video Card
Case: NZXT H440 (Matte Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1047.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-17 22:11 EDT-0400

I questioned my own build after seeing this and then I realized that there's no price for the 1080 there. Might want to add $500 to that.

 

[opticalmace]

Warfare was constantly crashing on me so it up being a whole new computer build and I ended up with this.

ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Express x1 Interface Sound Card

Intel Core i7-6800K 15M Broadwell-E 6-Core 3.4 GHz LGA 2011-v3 140W

MSI Gaming Z170A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM EDITION LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard

Corsair Hydro Series H110i GT High Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler

G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 (PC4 24000) Intel Z170 Desktop Memory

Corsair CC-9011078-WW 750D Airflow Edition Black Computer Case

EVGA 220-GS-0850-V1 80 PLUS GOLD 850

Now I rmad my 780gtx to evga so I'm hoping I get something good in return

You need an X99 motherboard for that CPU. The one you chose is incompatible. Also you should use quad channel memory on X99 for optimum performance (you have dual currently).

You should post your build via PC Part Picker and then we can see prices and suggest improvements.

 

[nintendork666]

So CyberPowerPC is recommended if I just want the PC built for me, right?

Any recommended builds on there with a budget of about $2500? Want to upgrade to something VR ready/High end that I hopefully won't need to upgrade for a long time.

EDIT: Looking at https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/CyberPower_Black_Pearl but there are probably some adjustments I could make.

I don't know the first thing about that site, but why rob yourself the privilege of building the PC yourself? that's half the fun of getting into this sort of thing, plus you'll knock the cost down by quite a bit DIY. Also, when it's time to upgrade you're gonna have to get your hands dirty, might as well start now. Just my 2 pennies.

 

[Lord_Balkan]

Someone from another thread directed me to here so I will repost what I posted there.

Hey all,

I didn't want to make a new thread for this, but I currently have a i7-3930k OCed @ 4.5ghz. It has been going really strong for me for 4 years now but I'd like to upgrade sometime soon. Do you think it would be worth upgrading to an i7-6700k or should I wait for Kirby Lake to launch later this year?

I don't really do anything on my computer that warrants 6 cores- I just bought the i7-3930k because I was working at Intel at the time and was able to get it for the same price as an i7-2700k.

I already have a GTX 980 and an SSD. Would it be worth it to wait for Kirby Lake or should I just upgrade?

 

[Zabojnik]

Someone from another thread directed me to here so I will repost what I posted there.

Hey all,

I didn't want to make a new thread for this, but I currently have a i7-3930k OCed @ 4.5ghz. It has been going really strong for me for 4 years now but I'd like to upgrade sometime soon. Do you think it would be worth upgrading to an i7-6700k or should I wait for Kirby Lake to launch later this year?

I don't really do anything on my computer that warrants 6 cores- I just bought the i7-3930k because I was working at Intel at the time and was able to get it for the same price as an i7-2700k.

I already have a GTX 980 and an SSD. Would it be worth it to wait for Kirby Lake or should I just upgrade?

Wait. It's not like the 3930k is holding you back.

 

[Jyrii]

Soooo I just realized that I build my new rig, and didn't insert the motherboard's backplate.

Is it worth to take everything out to add it?

 

[8bitForLife]

You need an X99 motherboard for that CPU. The one you chose is incompatible. Also you should use quad channel memory on X99 for optimum performance (you have dual currently).

You should post your build via PC Part Picker and then we can see prices and suggest improvements.

I choose this as you suggested

MSI X99A GAMING PRO CARBON LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99
My last MSI board I used I really liked

 

[LilJoka]

Someone from another thread directed me to here so I will repost what I posted there.

Hey all,

I didn't want to make a new thread for this, but I currently have a i7-3930k OCed @ 4.5ghz. It has been going really strong for me for 4 years now but I'd like to upgrade sometime soon. Do you think it would be worth upgrading to an i7-6700k or should I wait for Kirby Lake to launch later this year?

I don't really do anything on my computer that warrants 6 cores- I just bought the i7-3930k because I was working at Intel at the time and was able to get it for the same price as an i7-2700k.

I already have a GTX 980 and an SSD. Would it be worth it to wait for Kirby Lake or should I just upgrade?

There is no point in upgrading from a 3930k @ 4.5ghz. Unless you specifically want to to side grade to a 6700k for lower TDP and noise. And possibly if you want to down size.

Soooo I just realized that I build my new rig, and didn't insert the motherboard's backplate.

Is it worth to take everything out to add it?

What board? Backplate??

 

[JaseC]

Warframe was constantly crashing on me so it up being a whole new computer build and I ended up with this.

...

Intel Core i7-6800K 15M Broadwell-E 6-Core 3.4 GHz LGA 2011-v3 140W

...

I'll probably be upgrading to a 6800K myself within the next 2-3 weeks. It's a relatively poor overclocker as 4.3GHz appears to be the ceiling for most people* before they have to leave the ~1.3v ballpark, at which point temperatures soar, however clock-for-clock it's 10%-15% faster than the 5820K. In the end I settled on importing a 6800K versus picking up a used 5820K locally for a little less as I figured hitting 4.3ishGHz on a 6800K is less likely to be a problem than reaching 4.7GHz+ on a 5820K.

Someone in South Korea is selling a few 6900K engineering samples on eBay relatively cheap (USD$800 as opposed to ~USD$1,100), and with tax time around the corner I thought, "What's an extra few hundred bucks?", however research lead me to conclude that, especially with my poor luck, I could very well end up with either a dud of an overclocker or a unit with a limited lifespan.

* Granted, there isn't much in the way of 6800K overclocking results out there. For the most part they're buried in forums -- there are quite literally only a few articles that delve into the 6800K's overclocking ability.

 

[repeater]

Thanks a lot appaws for your lengthy and helpful reply!

If you are going to spend the money on a 1080, then I would probably go with at least a 2560 by 1440 display. G-sync would be a great choice.

Reading up a bit on it, 2560x1440 would seem to give you a pretty sweet spot between image quality and performance (coming from consoles I would love to be able to run most stuff at at least 60 fps, and we don't seem to be quite there with 4K, right?).

I saw a pretty good deal for an Acer Predator XB270HUD, would that be a decent choice for a 2560x1440 display with G-sync?

You should go with a K series (unlocked) processor to go with that Z170 motherboard. i5 is good if it is mostly a gaming PC...if you are doing photo, video, rendering type of stuff...then an i7 is a good choice.

Do you think i7 is overkill for gaming right now? Would it be a good idea to go for an i7-6700K to futureproof the rig a little bit more?

 

[Mr Swine]

I don't know which I want to upgrade first on my "aging" PC. My current specs are:

I5 3570k
8GB DDR3
Sound blaster Z
GTX 970

I was planing to buy a GTX 1070 but those cards are way overpriced compared to what I payed for my 970. I would love to play all future games with all bells and whistles but at the same time I would love to get a new CPU. I read that the i5 5675C is just as fast if not faster than a i7 6700k in certain games. But then I lose out on DDR4 memory but will that really be a important factor in buying a new CPU?

 

[Novum_Veritas]

A question, I have a i5-6600 and a MSI GTX 980 Ti, I have a 4K ASUS monitor and 32 GB RAM.
Playing games like Overwatch, DOOM ME Catalyst and all those games.
Was considering using 2560x1440 instead of 1080p, the Ti should be ok with this resolution right?

 

[LilJoka]

I don't know which I want to upgrade first on my "aging" PC. My current specs are:

I5 3570k
8GB DDR3
Sound blaster Z
GTX 970

I was planing to buy a GTX 1070 but those cards are way overpriced compared to what I payed for my 970. I would love to play all future games with all bells and whistles but at the same time I would love to get a new CPU. I read that the i5 5675C is just as fast if not faster than a i7 6700k in certain games. But then I lose out on DDR4 memory but will that really be a important factor in buying a new CPU?

But an i7 3770k used and overclock it.

A question, I have a i5-6600 and a MSI GTX 980 Ti, I have a 4K ASUS monitor and 32 GB RAM.
Playing games like Overwatch, DOOM ME Catalyst and all those games.
Was considering using 2560x1440 instead of 1080p, the Ti should be ok with this resolution right?

Nope, the Ti will explode.
Jokes aside, just try it...

 

[8bitForLife]

Also picked up 2 more ram sticks as suggested for quad channel

 

[Novum_Veritas]

But an i7 3770k used and overclock it.



Nope, the Ti will explode.
Jokes aside, just try it...

Okay, thanks for the laugh though
I will try tomorrow.

 

[Jyrii]

What board? Backplate??

This thing

 

[LilJoka]

This thing
http://www.zis4u.com/images/June%202010%20264.jpg[/IG][/QUOTE]

Oh the IO shield.
Well im OCD so I would install it, it's not hugely necessary.
Just remove the GPU and unscrew the board, slide it across then install the IO Shield.

 

[Novum_Veritas]

This thing

Yeah you should install it,

 

[Jyrii]

Oh the IO shield.
Well im OCD so I would install it, it's not hugely necessary.
Just remove the GPU and unscrew the board, slide it across then install the IO Shield.

Ok. I guess I'll install it once I get my new GPU. I want to rewire the setup anyways to make it a bit cleaner.

 

[Tonza]

I was thinking of upgrading from R9 270X to RX 480 but now the GTX 980 prices are coming down. There is a Zotac GTX 980 available for 350 euros shipped. I think the RX 480 will be around 250 for the 4gb and 300 for the 8gb. The 1070 is looking to be out of my price range at 460-500 euros.

It'll be interesting to see more benchmarks for RX 480 vs GTX 980.

 

[LilJoka]

I was thinking of upgrading from R9 270X to RX 480 but now the GTX 980 prices are coming down. There is a Zotac GTX 980 available for 350 euros shipped. I think the RX 480 will be around 250 for the 4gb and 300 for the 8gb. The 1070 is looking to be out of my price range at 460-500 euros.

It'll be interesting to see more benchmarks for RX 480 vs GTX 980.

RX 480 should be lower wattage than the 980.

 

[Hero of Time]

I mean more the connector on the motherboard. Maybe check the manual and ensure it's pushing as much voltage by default as is needed?

Do an ear test, the pump should be powered by sata, so stick your ear near the block and unplug the pump then plug it back in, make sure you hear the difference - that'll tell you it's actually spun up to some degree.

What are the ambient temps like?

The pump rad has been cleaned of dust?

When my H80i failed the pump got louder and temps went up by 10-20c, so it could be on its way out.

As suggested make sure the fan header the pump connects to is set to run at full speed.

Thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it!

So the pump was plugged into the system fan 3 port on my motherboard and I switched it over to CPU fan 2. Its RPM is running at 4700, idle temps are around 33c and max temps are now at 76c while gaming rather than 91c, so definitely an improvement. Sadly still not doing as well as before the heat issues started, but at least for the moment its not about to melt.

 

[LilJoka]

Thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it!

So the pump was plugged into the system fan 3 port on my motherboard and I switched it over to CPU fan 2. Its RPM is running at 4700, idle temps are around 33c and max temps are now at 76c while gaming rather than 91c, so definitely an improvement. Sadly still not doing as well as before the heat issues started, but at least for the moment its not about to melt.

That can be attributed to ambient temps, dust build up, and anything happening in the fluid itself.

 

[JonCha]

Despite for a long time wanting to build a console-sized PC, I think I may go with the NZXT Manta instead. The design of the case is really great and it isn't that big. The only question now is whether to go for the 480 or not given the rumours that it may be around 980 levels of performance pre-overclock.

 

[Thejackburton]

Some advice on a slightly broke monitor please.

My monitor works but it is if somebody is constantly pressing the side buttons and then monitor menu is constantly flashing.

Is this fixable? I took it to a local independent pc shop and he said he doesn't touch monitors because you can't get the parts for them, its cheaper to replace them. I don't want to buy a new monitor as I'm not upgrading my hardware anytime soon.

using my old spare 1400x900 or whatever it is looks ugly as fuck though.

 

[Mr Swine]

But an i7 3770k used and overclock it.



Nope, the Ti will explode.
Jokes aside, just try it...

Can't find an used 3770k here in Sweden and I have had bad experiences with buying CPU's on eBay ::

 

[drotahorror]

Some advice on a slightly broke monitor please.

My monitor works but it is if somebody is constantly pressing the side buttons and then monitor menu is constantly flashing.

Is this fixable? I took it to a local independent pc shop and he said he doesn't touch monitors because you can't get the parts for them, its cheaper to replace them. I don't want to buy a new monitor as I'm not upgrading my hardware anytime soon.

using my old spare 1400x900 or whatever it is looks ugly as fuck though.

You could try applying a bit of pressure to the monitor's bezel. Go around all sides and squeeze a bit with your thumb on the front and the other fingers on the back. I had a monitor that had some issues and that fixed it (for a bit). I ended up RMAing the monitor.

 

[Strafebogey]

Despite for a long time wanting to build a console-sized PC, I think I may go with the NZXT Manta instead. The design of the case is really great and it isn't that big. The only question now is whether to go for the 480 or not given the rumours that it may be around 980 levels of performance pre-overclock.

Slightly bigger than an Xbox One. Silverstone Raven RVZ01 with Core i7 4790K overclocked cooled by Corsair H55 and GTX1080 FE.

Dont give up that dream.

 

[LilJoka]

Can't find an used 3770k here in Sweden and I have had bad experiences with buying CPU's on eBay ::

Then your only upgrade path is Haswell i7 4790k and z97 with DDR3 or 6700k and z170 with DDR4. A massive cost over the price of a 3770k with hardly any extra performance.

 

[JonCha]

Slightly bigger than an Xbox One. Silverstone Raven RVZ01 with Core i7 4790K overclocked cooled by Corsair H55 and GTX1080 FE.

Dont give up that dream.

Before my post I was set on getting the second generation version of your case. I'm not sure how they compare in terms of size.

How are your temps? Ventilation seems like the major problem. And how easy was the build? I've only built a PC once and that was a few years ago.

 

[Strafebogey]

Before my post I was set on getting the second generation version of your case. I'm not sure how they compare in terms of size.

How are your temps? Ventilation seems like the major problem. And how easy was the build? I've only built a PC once and that was a few years ago.

60C on the CPU and 78C on the GPU on the most strenuous stress tests I threw at it. I also game in 4K. Those figures may be skewed further unfavorably against me because I live in the tropics.

I picked the 1080FE for the fact that they're slimmer and exhausts hot air out the case, instead of the AIB cards that requires positive airflow within the case to vent the hot air out.

Here's a sample build log video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlRHca2qrHM

The only difficult part for me was assembling and fitting the Corsair H55 AIO into the pretty limited space inside the RVZ01. I had the tube kinked at one occasion and temperatures immediately rises to 90C. Good thing about that it is fairly immediate sign, so you know something is wrong, not something that creeps up on you in time. If you prefer aircooling, there are some pretty good low profile air coolers like the Noctua NH-L9x65 Low-Profile CPU Cooler.

After checking the Raven webpage, Silverstone themselves had released their own AIO solution. The Tundra TD03-SLIM. http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=598&area=

 

[wheeplash]

Whew, finished my Microcenter cart a couple of minutes ago:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz LGA 1151 Quad Core ($179.99).
Motherboard: ASUS H170 Pro Gaming LGA 1151 ATX Intel ($89.99) C-c-c-c-combo deaaal.
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-2400 ($64.99) No 2133mhz sticks on stock :/ (that's the max speed the Mobo supports)
Storage: PNY CS1311 480GB SATA III 6Gb/s 2.5" ($114.99).

Total: $465.71 after tax (Using 1080p 60hz display btw).

I have a GTX760 lying around while I wait for Polaris specs, and a 550W PW from my 2010 build. 500GB HDD is on its last breath so it's time to throw it out. I'll eventually upgrade to 1080/144hz or 1440p display with the new card. Key thing here and why I went for the ''Pro Gaming'' line since it supports DisplayPorts.

No plans of overclocking. No plans of SLI/Crossfire (ever). All I need now is to wait for my aunt to bring those parts on the plane lol. That's why I'll buy the the cpu cooler here since they're heavy as fu, same as the Corsair 100R because of size. I'm already pushing it with the Motherboard's box...

I'm excited! (Any recommendation is welcomed)

 

[LilJoka]

Nice parts, enjoy!

 

[wheeplash]

Nice parts, enjoy!

Thank you!

 

[Megabat]

Whew, finished my Microcenter cart a couple of minutes ago:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz LGA 1151 Quad Core ($179.99).
Motherboard: ASUS H170 Pro Gaming LGA 1151 ATX Intel ($89.99) C-c-c-c-combo deaaal.
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-2400 ($64.99) No 2133mhz sticks on stock :/ (that's the max speed the Mobo supports)
Storage: PNY CS1311 480GB SATA III 6Gb/s 2.5" ($114.99).

Total: $465.71 after tax (Using 1080p 60hz display btw).

I have a GTX760 lying around while I wait for Polaris specs, and a 550W PW from my 2010 build. 500GB HDD is on its last breath so it's time to throw it out. I'll eventually upgrade to 1080/144hz or 1440p display with the new card. Key thing here and why I went for the ''Pro Gaming'' line since it supports DisplayPorts.

I'm pretty sure your onboard graphics will be used if you use the DP out on your motherboard. But I can almost guarantee that your 760 has a DP out.

No plans of SLI/Crossfire (ever).

Smart.

 

[LogicStep]

So is it worth it to get 3200 ram instead of 2133 or anything in between? Doesn't seem to be a big price difference between them.

 

[Sykotik]

So is it worth it to get 3200 ram instead of 2133 or anything in between? Doesn't seem to be a big price difference between them.

For how low the price difference is, I would say 3200 is the sweet spot for ddr4.

 

[Deleted member 245925]

So is it worth it to get 3200 ram instead of 2133 or anything in between? Doesn't seem to be a big price difference between them.

I had the same question a week ago and after reading some articles and tests, the only really noticable difference using Skylake CPUs is in benchmarks specifically targeting RAM and if you use the internal GPU for gaming. In normal use cases and gaming with a graphics card there is pretty much no noticeable difference. I initially planned to get 3000 MHz RAM but then settled on 2400 MHz because it's cheaper and as I said, it didn't appear to be worth it.