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[King Gilga]

Okay, so I have one of those mouse mats, a steel series one.

It's starting to curl at the bottom after a year.

Is it safe to iron it back down? I'm asking here because google gave me shit like this.

Thanks.

 

[kuYuri]

I don't think my monitor supports HDMI 2.0.

In that case, you're gonna have to get a DisplayPort to DVI-D adapter. DVI-D can do 1080p/144hz from what I can tell.

You're going to either need to get an Active Dual Link DVI to DP adapter, which will run you about $100 or return the card and wait for an AIB that puts a DVI-D port on a 480.

Or you return the monitor and pick up something with Freesync? Couple options.

Wouldn't one of the cheaper passive DP to DVI-D adapters work just fine?

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

It could be, it's been quite a while since I've had my 2500k and I don't remember well also but 1.2 should still be on the safe-ish side.



You are still right about the VCSSA though, he can push it a bit more than 0.950.

Yeah, I would say so too. They should be quite similar.

@CHC, use the guide in my previous post as a guide in case you need something further. Bed time for me. Good luck.

 

[CHC]

Alright yo I'm looking at my Windows desktop on 2133 clocked RAM. Swapping DIMM slots DID seem to make some differnce. CPU is clocked stock for now. Gonna build from here. Thanks or troubleshooting with me dudes.

I just popped it in DIMM 1 & 3 and the set XM to Auto every setting, didn't override any voltage or timings, etc.

 

[pantsattack]

Can anyone recommend quiet case fans without lights that are around $10?

 

[super-famicom]

Well if you're not concerned about upgrading later, the GA-B150M-D3H is fine, but you can only run the memory at 2133mhz regardless what speed you buy. So you limit yourself for the future if you go that route.

I stand by my initial suggestion of the Z170 board and DDR4-3000 (which is also the sweet spot for price vs performance). Then, if you decide you want to get into OC'ing or just a faster CPU in the future the i5 6600k or i7 6700k drops right in. Also, next year Cannonlake comes out, and the prices of todays CPUs will fall.

A i5 6500 will be more that sufficient to run what settings you want at 1080p if you go with a rx480 or equivalent. If you CAN swing it, the i5 6600k is the better route long term, but you're going to have to increase your budget.

Well the point with overclockable (K) i5s is that when your CPU will get older you can have some free performance just by overclocking it. (or just do it from the start if you wish) Considering recent Intel generations are about roughly 8-10% improvement from a gen to the next, that would mean that you will still be ok years later cause you can gain 20-30% performance from overclocking alone. In terms of noticeable performance in games, it can make a difference sometimes, other times it will not matter much cause a lot of games are not that heavy on the CPU. It can help with perceived smoothness also as frame times will tend to be better on higher clocks.

That said if you aren't that sensible to framerate or just want to spend a bit less, an i5 6500 + H or B chipset + 2133 DDR4 is perfectly viable so nothing wrong with that build too. It all depends on your priorities to be honest.

I guess I'll go with the i5 6600 for future proofing and the Z170/DDR4-3000 if that is indeed the sweet spot for price/performance. If the other Moho limits the RAM to 2133 MHz I'd rather skip that. I am able to increase my budget up to around $900. I do have a lot of cashback rewards from my credit cards. I'll go over my potential build again and see what I can do.

They aren't included with the motherboard because they come with the case.

Oh, OK. I was looking at the case, and in the specs I only read that the contents of the order was just the case.

 

[vector824]

I guess I'll go with the i5 6600 for future proofing and the Z170/DDR4-3000 if that is indeed the sweet spot for price/performance. If the other Moho limits the RAM to 2133 MHz I'd rather skip that. I am able to increase my budget up to around $900. I do have a lot of cashback rewards from my credit cards. I'll go over my potential build again and see what I can do.

Try this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($102.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($91.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($244.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($71.90 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($8.99 @ Directron)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($8.99 @ Directron)
Total: $918.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-30 18:37 EDT-0400

Slightly cheaper but basically the same mobo, i5 6600k, DDR4 3000mhz RAM, bumped you to a better PSU and everything else the same. Puts you JUST over $900.

 

[Saro]

So after reading the reviews on the RX 480's power draw, I need a different gpu to put in this old dell pc I fixed up.

It's a Dell Xps 435mt with:

Lga 1366 motherboard
i7-920
EVGA 500B 500w PSU
8GB RAM
ATI 4350

I would like for this pc to do some gaming for my little sister, (she's eyeing Overwatch like a hawk). 720p, Medium detail, 60fps is what I'm looking for and I'm hoping the RX 470 will be up my alley but if it's not, which GPUs would fit the 470's profile?

 

[CHC]

2133 RAM is being a temperamental bitch as soon as I start overclocking CPU. Blue screens all over the place. This is so fucking annoying!

Actual 2133 RAM seems all but impossible unless I revert my 2500k to stock speeds and by then, what's the point!?

IBT is crashing me left and right here. Really an exercise in frustration!

 

[Tekniqs]

You could sell your 290, combine that with the money you'd spend on watercooling, and have ~$265 to spend on a new card. That would either completely cover a custom-cooled, near-silent 8GB 480, or get you within firing distance of a 1070 (lowest price I've seen for one of those is $409).

what would be a good price to sell the 290 for? considering the 480 is going for ~200 brand new....

 

[Keihart]

I just noticed that there is no DVI port on the RX480, is that a thing now? The Cintiq 22HD uses a DVI port...maybe i can use an adaptor but that might cause compatibility problems?

Does the 1070 have a DVI port? or any of the new cards for that matter?

 

[data]

I just noticed that there is no DVI port on the RX480, is that a thing now? The Cintiq 22HD uses a DVI port...maybe i can use an adaptor but that might cause compatibility problems?

Does the 1070 have a DVI port? or any of the new cards for that matter?

I think the Nitro RX480 will add a DVI port, but I'm not sure

 

[Keihart]

I think the Nitro RX480 will add a DVI port, but I'm not sure

thanks, i'll check that out. I need to order the card at the latest next week, i hope i can find something on amazon by that time.

Edit: i'll be on the lookout for the non reference models then, hope we can see them avaible soon.

 

[BrokenArrow]

I just noticed that there is no DVI port on the RX480, is that a thing now? The Cintiq 22HD uses a DVI port...maybe i can use an adaptor but that might cause compatibility problems?

Does the 1070 have a DVI port? or any of the new cards for that matter?

As the person above me already pointed out, while the stock RX 480 does not have a DVI-D port, third party manifacturers do have the possibility to include one.

The Founder's Edition of the GTX 1070 doesn't have a DVI port either, but the MSI Gaming X 8G does. Not sure about other manifacturers though.

 

[Keihart]

The MSI GeForce GTX 1070 ARMOR 8G OC has a DVI port but it kinda eats the rest of my budget before getting the case, PSU and HDD. I might bite the bullet if i can't get a non reference RX480. As prices are right now i would be at most only going over it a 150 usd.

The cheapest RX480 are only avaible over 320 on amazon and the GTX 1070 ARMOR 8G OC is at 460 :/

 

[ombz]

So if I got these pieces:

Mobo: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO ALPHA ATX
Heatsink: Noctua NH-D15 6
Case: Corsair Obsidian Series Black 550D
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz

From what I can tell, the case should be wide enough to support the heatsink, and it's asymmetrical to deal with the ram, but can anyone confirm? I'm not 100% sure the best way to check this sort of thing without just seeing if they fit together.

For the case you should be mainly worried about the CPU cooler height. Looking at the 550D tech specs:

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/obsidian-series-550d-mid-tower-quiet-case

The 550d supports a height up to 180 mm which is well over the height of the NH-D15 that has a height of 165mm (with the fan).

You can also check Noctua's site to see their specifications. They also include compatibility with motherboard lists for their products.

 

[Trigg]

thanks, i'll check that out. I need to order the card at the latest next week, i hope i can find something on amazon by that time.

Edit: i'll be on the lookout for the non reference models then, hope we can see them avaible soon.

Official image of the nitro's connectors.

 

[Keihart]

Awesome man, thanks. Now if only we could order it...

 

[WadeitOut]

Brand new build

Sold the MSI Gaming X to a friend and have a STRIX OC coming Tuesday.

 

[Heysoos]

Wellpp. Got all my parts. Had the day off. Figured it'd be smooth sailing. Nope. Motherboard won't post. And idk how to figure out the error code since there is seemingly no way without the beeps? I'm pretty frustrated. Wish I had just stuck to what I already had. This feels like a massive waste of money and time now

Fans turns on, motherboard lights turn on then it shuts off.



At this point I think I just want to return everything to Newegg and eat the restocking fee

 

[WadeitOut]

Wellpp. Got all my parts. Had the day off. Figured it'd be smooth sailing. Nope. Motherboard won't post. And idk how to figure out the error code since there is seemingly no way without the beeps? I'm pretty frustrated. Wish I had just stuck to what I already had. This feels like a massive waste of money and time now

Fans turns on, motherboard lights turn on then it shuts off.



At this point I think I just want to return everything to Newegg and eat the restocking fee

Most newer boards have LEDs that help determine what's wrong. I've had the same issue you are having with several builds in the past but I've always been able to figure it out without returning anything. It could be that the standoffs in the case aren't right so some metal on the board is touching the case. You could try laying the mobo on a piece of cardboard with all components hooked up. If it still happens start removing components until it stops shutting down. Or there could be a power connector not properly connected like the 8 pin CPU power.

 

[Heysoos]

Most newer boards have LEDs that help determine what's wrong. I've had the same issue you are having with several builds in the past but I've always been able to figure it out without returning anything. It could be that the standoffs in the case aren't right so some metal on the board is touching the case. You could try laying the mobo on a piece of cardboard with all components hooked up. If it still happens start removing components until it stops shutting down. Or there could be a power connector not properly connected like the 8 pin CPU power.[/QUOTE

Couldn't find any LEDs that helped me find errors. Looked everywhere. Gigabyte Z170XP SLI if it matters. I already have it barebones

 

[vector824]

Most newer boards have LEDs that help determine what's wrong. I've had the same issue you are having with several builds in the past but I've always been able to figure it out without returning anything... Or there could be a power connector not properly connected like the 8 pin CPU power.

I did this exact thing last week! Plugged in CPU power, and good to go. I kicked myself for that.

Couldn't find any LEDs that helped me find errors. Looked everywhere. Gigabyte Z170XP SLI if it matters. I already have it barebones

What are your other components?

 

[Heysoos]

I7-6700K GSkill DDR4
CX 750M

Those are the main new parts. I have gpu and ssd from older build but I haven't even tried inserting those since this isn't even posting

 

[WadeitOut]

Is your corsair PSU new? Because if it's not the standoffs I would imagine it has to be the power supply or something is not connected properly.

 

[Iorv3th]

I7-6700K GSkill DDR4
CX 750M

Those are the main new parts. I have gpu and ssd from older build but I haven't even tried inserting those since this isn't even posting

You got a heatsink for the 6700k right? It doesn't come with a stock one so...

 

[Heysoos]

You got a heatsink for the 6700k right? It doesn't come with a stock one so...

Yeah Hyper 212 Evo


And.yeah psu is new too. I have motherboard outside the case just connected to power supply and still same thing. Fans turn on, motherboard lights.come on and then everything goes off and resets I guess but nothing is posting

 

[knitoe]

Yeah Hyper 212 Evo

Does the CPU fan stays spinning or does it stop?

 

[Heysoos]

Does the CPU fan stays spinning or does it stop?

It turns off when the motherboard turns off

 

[Iorv3th]

Yeah Hyper 212 Evo


And.yeah psu is new too. I have motherboard outside the case just connected to power supply and still same thing. Fans turn on, motherboard lights.come on and then everything goes off and resets I guess but nothing is posting

It isn't going to power on unless you have it connected to a power switch on the case. Just turning the power on from the power supply will send power to it for a short period of time and that is it until the power button is pressed.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2346183/cx750m-turn.html


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4

 

[Heysoos]

It isn't going to power on unless you have it connected to a power switch on the case. Just turning the power on from the power supply will send power to it for a short period of time and that is it until the power button is pressed.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2346183/cx750m-turn.html

Sorry I have the power switch little connectors on it too. I'm having to type from mobile so it's a little hard

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

Try reconnecting everything again if you haven't, try other ram slots, etc

See if someone you know has a motherboard speaker like this:

 

[Iorv3th]

Sorry I have the power switch little connectors on it too. I'm having to type from mobile so it's a little hard

Make sure to test the PSU. It could be bad. CX series is not a good series to be using especially since it's for a gaming rig. If you have your old rig try that PSU and see if it works.

 

[justjim89]

Damn it. PC build paused for the night. Got the PSU, SSD, CPU, RAM, and motherboard mounted in the case, but don't have the CPU fan or graphics card in. Had it built most of the way before realizing we didn't have the mount from the CPU fan on the back of the motherboard, so we had to undo all the cords to the motherboard, take out the 1070, and fiddle around with the CPU fan for a bit before my help had to go.

So I got the motherboard screwed back in, but I'm nervous to apply the thermal paste and mount the CPU fan (Hyper 212 Evo) and I've no idea where the unplugged cords go. Not to mention my case doesn't exactly have a lot of free space in it, so I don't wanna cram something in the wrong way.

Was hoping to have it all put together and let my bigger Steam games install overnight, but alas. I'd rather wait longer and have it done properly than fuck up something crucial doing it myself at nighttime.

 

[Heysoos]

Make sure to test the PSU. It could be bad. CX series is not a good series to be using especially since it's for a gaming rig. If you have your old rig try that PSU and see if it works.

Tried my computers psu and same issue


Not sure what else to try. Should I assume it's either the mobo or CPU?

 

[jtb]

This seems as good a place as any to ask:

My monitor is no longer receiving signal from my GPU, but is receiving through integrated HDMI port on the motherboard. In Windows, GPU-Z; doesn't recognize the GPU. Reset CMOS -- no change.

Computer's pretty new, built it three months ago -- everything worked really well up until one day when it randomly... didn't. Even now, computer still works fine with the integrated graphics, just can't seem to recognize the GPU. Does this mean my GPU is dead? My power supply is fucked? A little bit of both? What are troubleshooting steps to take next...

Thanks.

 

[Heysoos]

So PSU is working that just leaves motherboard and CPU. How would I even test which one might be bad so I can RMA?

 

[e90Mark]

In that case, you're gonna have to get a DisplayPort to DVI-D adapter. DVI-D can do 1080p/144hz from what I can tell.



Wouldn't one of the cheaper passive DP to DVI-D adapters work just fine?

Passive can't do 1080p/144. I looked into this extensively since I used to have an XL2411z. In hindsight, it was worth stepping up to the XL2420Z back then just for the DP alone.

 

[kuYuri]

Passive can't do 1080p/144. I looked into this extensively since I used to have an XL2411z. In hindsight, it was worth stepping up to the XL2420Z back then just for the DP alone.

Ah, good to know.

That's a shame. :/

 

[Josh5890]

Here is my finally built PC. Pardon the crappy pics as I took them with my Vita.

This goes without saying but thank you very much to everyone who has given me advice and answered my questions over the past several weeks/months. I would not have this machine today without your insight!

FYI- that isn't the permanent spot for my rig.

Here are the final specs...
Gigabyte Z170-HD3P
i5 6600K
Radeon HD 6950
Noctua NH-U9S
Samsung EVO 250GB SSD
Western Digital 2 TB HDD
16 GB Corsair Vengeance 3200 MHz DDR4 (2X8GB)
ASUS 24X DVD-RW
EVGA 750 GQ 80+ Gold
Windows 10

In the end I went a little over budget, mainly from picking a better PSU and cooler for the i5. Overall I am super pleased. All of my Steam games are downloaded onto the PC and now I'm working on installing my disc games.

My only thing that remains is my graphics card (obviously lol). I really want to upgrade this by the fall. My goal is to get something that will get me through a few years unless some crazy awesome super deal comes around. I tend to use my cards till they are nearly obsolete. I really don't want to spend over $300 at this time since my budget on the build was over what I planned on. Here are what my options feel like.

1. Get the RX 480. I feel like this is my better option due to money. I could grab a new card for $240~$250 and use it for a year or so. Maybe there will be an opportunity for me to sell my card and pick up something else for $300 or so then. I'm hesitant because the 480 doesn't seem as sexy as the hype played it out to be as the 980 is still powerful

2. Pick up a used card. It seems like I could find a used 970 for around $200, an R9 390 for under $300, or a 980 for $300 with a hint of luck. They seem to be a little powerful but they are older cards to begin with and I've never bought a used graphics card before so that would be a little nerve racking.

Overall I'm looking for longevity over anything else. Resell value isn't a priority in the slightest, even though I mentioned it in option 1 lol. Either way I know that both options will be a nice upgrade over the current card I own.

 

[lostsupper]

Here is my finally built PC. Pardon the crappy pics as I took them with my Vita.

This goes without saying but thank you very much to everyone who has given me advice and answered my questions over the past several weeks/months. I would not have this machine today without your insight!

FYI- that isn't the permanent spot for my rig.

...
Here are the final specs...
Gigabyte Z170-HD3P
i5 6600K
Radeon HD 6950
Noctua NH-U9S
Samsung EVO 250GB SSD
Western Digital 2 TB HDD
16 GB Corsair Vengeance 3200 MHz DDR4 (2X8GB)
ASUS 24X DVD-RW
EVGA 750 GQ 80+ Gold
Windows 10

In the end I went a little over budget, mainly from picking a better PSU and cooler for the i5. Overall I am super pleased. All of my Steam games are downloaded onto the PC and now I'm working on installing my disc games.

My only thing that remains is my graphics card (obviously lol). I really want to upgrade this by the fall. My goal is to get something that will get me through a few years unless some crazy awesome super deal comes around. I tend to use my cards till they are nearly obsolete. I really don't want to spend over $300 at this time since my budget on the build was over what I planned on. Here are what my options feel like.

1. Get the RX 480. I feel like this is my better option due to money. I could grab a new card for $240~$250 and use it for a year or so. Maybe there will be an opportunity for me to sell my card and pick up something else for $300 or so then. I'm hesitant because the 480 doesn't seem as sexy as the hype played it out to be as the 980 is still powerful

2. Pick up a used card. It seems like I could find a used 970 for around $200, an R9 390 for under $300, or a 980 for $300 with a hint of luck. They seem to be a little powerful but they are older cards to begin with and I've never bought a used graphics card before so that would be a little nerve racking.

Overall I'm looking for longevity over anything else. Resell value isn't a priority in the slightest, even though I mentioned it in option 1 lol. Either way I know that both options will be a nice upgrade over the current card I own.

Put the cooler fan on the other side so it's pushing air across the heatsink.

 

[knitoe]

So PSU is working that just leaves motherboard and CPU. How would I even test which one might be bad so I can RMA?

You can only test them if you had another one. In most cases, it's a bad MB. I would RMA it.

 

[Aztechnology]

So guys I'm having a little trouble. I was messing around trying to get my RAM speeds on my DDR4 ram up on my 5820k. My Motherboard is a MX99A SLI Plus. I was running a 4.4ghz OC on my 5820k with ram at 2400mhz. I didn't even think about the changes in strap and I think it caused my OC to change. Now when I try to boot the computer seems to start up fine but there's no bios post. The screens are not getting anything from my GPU. Anyway I was going to jump the CMOS. However I'm not exactly sure what to do on this board. I know I have to power down and unplug the power, didn't seem to come with a jumper so I'll have to use a screw driver. But the manual doesn't say anything about removing the CMOS battery like I've had to do in the past with other boards. Its really barren and just says to power down and jump the CMOS by covering the pins. Is that right? Shouldnt I remove the CMOS battery first?

Here's what it says in the manual. Is the only thing I have to do is just touch the pins?

 

[xJavonta]

Weirdest discovery just now

I was playing games with my Xbox One controller hooked up to my PC via USB. Works as intended.

I went to put my PC in sleep mode and then turn on my Xbox One to watch Netflix. But my Xbox didn't turn on after pressing the button on my controller, my PC did!

Before anyone asks, yes I did unplug the cable from the controller before attempting to turn on the Xbox.

No I do not own the Xbox One Wireless Controller adapter, but my PC does have a Bluetooth adapter.

The controller is detected as a wireless controller in Windows 10, but it only works when it's connected via USB.

Can I use this controller on my PC without buying the wireless adapter? The PC is clearly detecting it wirelessly, it just doesn't do anything past waking the PC.

 

[ColdDeckEd]

So guys I'm having a little trouble. I was messing around trying to get my RAM speeds on my DDR4 ram up on my 5820k. My Motherboard is a MX99A SLI Plus. I was running a 4.4ghz OC on my 5820k with ram at 2400mhz. I didn't even think about the changes in strap and I think it caused my OC to change. Now when I try to boot the computer seems to start up fine but there's no bios post. The screens are not getting anything from my GPU. Anyway I was going to jump the CMOS. However I'm not exactly sure what to do on this board. I know I have to power down and unplug the power, didn't seem to come with a jumper so I'll have to use a screw driver. But the manual doesn't say anything about removing the CMOS battery like I've had to do in the past with other boards. Its really barren and just says to power down and jump the CMOS by covering the pins. Is that right? Shouldnt I remove the CMOS battery first?

Here's what it says in the manual. Is the only thing I have to do is just touch the pins?

I'm pretty sure all you need to do is cover the jumper for afew seconds then take it off.

 

[Aztechnology]

I'm pretty sure all you need to do is cover the jumper for afew seconds then take it off.

I check in my box and the piece you use for jumping isn't there. I can just use a flathead screwdriver to touch the pins for like 10 seconds right?

 

[opticalmace]

This seems as good a place as any to ask:

My monitor is no longer receiving signal from my GPU, but is receiving through integrated HDMI port on the motherboard. In Windows, GPU-Z; doesn't recognize the GPU. Reset CMOS -- no change.

Computer's pretty new, built it three months ago -- everything worked really well up until one day when it randomly... didn't. Even now, computer still works fine with the integrated graphics, just can't seem to recognize the GPU. Does this mean my GPU is dead? My power supply is fucked? A little bit of both? What are troubleshooting steps to take next...

Thanks.

Try putting the video card in a different PCIe slot. Do you have another video card (or even computer) you could try?

Check the BIOS to make sure there's not some option for enabling or disabling the PCIe slot somehow.

What card is it btw? In fact what are the rest of your specs?

 

[Tekniqs]

Hey guys... Was set on buying the aoc g2460pf but further reading caused me to back away from it.
Now I'm deciding between the nixeus vue24a and the viewsonic xg2401. Anyone have any opinions on these monitors?

 

[JaseC]

I check in my box and the piece you use for jumping isn't there. I can just use a flathead screwdriver to touch the pins for like 10 seconds right?

There's a white button sitting among the I/O ports that clears the CMOS.

 

[Aztechnology]

There's a white button sitting among the I/O ports that clears the CMOS.

I've got it cleared already. The issue now is it will post with two sticks of RAM but not four...

Edit: Posting from my computer, but I think I may have killed two of my stick of ram. Which is really odd, because all I did was change the frequency from 2400 to 2666mhz. Could that really kill two sticks of my RAM?

Edit 2: Nope tested each in dual configurations. They all work fine. They just no longer work in 4 way anymore