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[Gav]

Sorry to repeat myself, has anyone got any advice? Im likely going to start ordering parts this weekend.

Im putting together a potential new rig, as its been a few years and im looking to have a damn good machine.
Looking at the i5-6600k, with new MB, RAM etc.

At the moment, i have a 3GB 7970, and im looking to buy a 1440p monitor.
What would be a good upgrade (if you think one is needed) that isnt a 1080?

 

[LilJoka]

I've got it cleared already. The issue now is it will post with two sticks of RAM but not four...

Edit: Posting from my computer, but I think I may have killed two of my stick of ram. Which is really odd, because all I did was change the frequency from 2400 to 2666mhz. Could that really kill two sticks of my RAM?

Edit 2: Nope tested each in dual configurations. They all work fine. They just no longer work in 4 way anymore

Do all 4 work at 2133mhz?

2133 RAM is being a temperamental bitch as soon as I start overclocking CPU. Blue screens all over the place. This is so fucking annoying!

Actual 2133 RAM seems all but impossible unless I revert my 2500k to stock speeds and by then, what's the point!?

IBT is crashing me left and right here. Really an exercise in frustration!

What voltages did you change to stabilise th ram? Did you increase the VTT?
It's a 2500k, not exactly known for a good memory controller. I would prioritise the CPU overclock much higher than ram OC.

 

[opticalmace]

Sorry to repeat myself, has anyone got any advice? Im likely going to start ordering parts this weekend.

Im putting together a potential new rig, as its been a few years and im looking to have a damn good machine.
Looking at the i5-6600k, with new MB, RAM etc.

At the moment, i have a 3GB 7970, and im looking to buy a 1440p monitor.
What would be a good upgrade (if you think one is needed) that isnt a 1080?

The 1070 is a pretty badass card for 1440p.

Fill out the survey in the OP and/or post your build idea for some critiques, if you want some.

 

[Goon]

Is it worth upgrading to 1440p 144 hz monitor + 1070? It seems that the mainstream audience and industry is moving towards 4k and skipping over 1440p completely. Will 4K be cheaper than 1440p just because 4K is seen as the next big thing?

 

[Gav]

Your Current Specs: i5 3570K CPU, 3GB 7970 GPU, 750W PSU, 60GB SSD w/ 1TB HDD.
Budget:: £700-£800 / UK
Main Use: Rate. Heavy Gaming for sure. Some emulation, some CAD work, lots of general usage. 1440p in the near future. Will be buying Battlefield 1 etc
Monitor Resolution: 1440p. Maybe not at the same time as this build, but in a few months, will upgrade from current 1080p monitor to 1440p.
Looking to reuse any parts?: PSU (750W, couldnt tell you model without being at home), 1TB SATA3 HDD, CDRW, monitor for now if cost creeps up.
When will you build?: ASAP! New house, new office, ready to get back to PC gaming properly.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe/more than likely!

The 1070 is a pretty badass card for 1440p.
Fill out the survey in the OP and/or post your build idea for some critiques, if you want some.

Done! Thankyou

 

[Aztechnology]

Do all 4 work at 2133mhz?



What voltages did you change to stabilise th ram? Did you increase the VTT?
It's a 2500k, not exactly known for a good memory controller. I would prioritise the CPU overclock much higher than ram OC.

The memory is rated for 2400mhz. So I didn't try. I've been running my 5820k at 4.4 with adaptive voltage and speedstep with my 4 sticks of RAM at 2400mhz for over 6 months with no issues until today. I bought Ryse: Son of Rome and it crashed my PC during a particularly hectic cutscene and I got a blue screen with a CPU error. So I went back in to lower my overclocks and start retesting. That's when my issues started.

Edit: I just tried at 2133mhz and now it won't even post with two RAM. Just black screens with no source. I don't know what the hell is going on. Was working with two sticks for multiple resets etc in the time since.

Edit 2: switched to the other two stick and now it posted. It looks like either these RAM or the Mobo really really doesn't like the Ram being messed with.

 

[Aztechnology]

Do you guys think I somehow destroyed some of my RAM slots? (I can't see how I possibly could have done this simply by upping my DDR4 ram from 2400/2666hz but I'm at a loss.) I have to use specific RAM slots for Dual/Quad channel so I'm not sure how to test each individual slot. All the ram seems fine though.

 

[ColdHoboKiller]

Another potentially dumb question.

The EVGA 1080 FTW requires "Two available 8-pin or 6+2pin PCI-E power dongles"

Does that mean I can use one cable that then splits into 2 8pin connectors?
Or do I have to use two separate 8 pin cables?

Cheers for any help.

 

[Vuze]

Another potentially dumb question.

The EVGA 1080 FTW requires "Two available 8-pin or 6+2pin PCI-E power dongles"

Does that mean I can use one cable that then splits into 2 8pin connectors?
Or do I have to use two separate 8 pin cables?

Cheers for any help.

If your PSU came with a single cable that has 2x8pin, it's safe to use that one.
If it didn't, I'd use two seperate cables and don't fall back to adapters.

Actually I'd like to learn more about this from somebody knowledgable in here; for example the EVGA 650 G2 comes with 8+6 cables while the 650 GS comes with 8+8. Why? The specs are near identical.
spec sheets
650 G2: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0650-Y1
650 GS: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-GS-0650-V1

It's worth to get a 1070 for 1440p.
Most cards can't handle UHD. Of course you can always turn down settings, go SLI or use g-sync/freesync but it's still too early to jump on the 4k hype train. But there is another, maybe even better solution: 1440p+HDR
Get a 1070 and wait for 1440p/HDR monitors. HDR is really, really great. You'll love it and you'll be able to reach 60fps on v. high details and enjoy a superior image quality. Maybe even better than 4k w/o hdr.

But are there even any HDR PC monitors announced yet?

 

[ISee]

Is it worth upgrading to 1440p 144 hz monitor + 1070? It seems that the mainstream audience and industry is moving towards 4k and skipping over 1440p completely. Will 4K be cheaper than 1440p just because 4K is seen as the next big thing?

It's worth to get a 1070 for 1440p.
Most cards can't handle UHD. Of course you can always turn down settings, go SLI or use g-sync/freesync but it's still too early to jump on the 4k hype train. But there is another, maybe even better solution: 1440p+HDR
Get a 1070 and wait for 1440p/HDR monitors. HDR is really, really great. You'll love it and you'll be able to reach 60fps on v. high details and enjoy a superior image quality. Maybe even better than 4k w/o hdr.

But are there even any HDR PC monitors announced yet?

Supposed to come in Q2-Q3 2016. Of course for a premium price, as always.

 

[vector824]

Sorry to repeat myself, has anyone got any advice? Im likely going to start ordering parts this weekend.

Im putting together a potential new rig, as its been a few years and im looking to have a damn good machine.
Looking at the i5-6600k, with new MB, RAM etc.

At the moment, i have a 3GB 7970, and im looking to buy a 1440p monitor.
What would be a good upgrade (if you think one is needed) that isnt a 1080?

Try this on for size:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($147.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($92.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($62.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($8.99 @ Directron)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($8.99 @ Directron)
Total: $883.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-01 06:27 EDT-0400

 

[Vuze]

Supposed to come in Q2-Q3 2016. Of course for a premium price, as always.

But yah, tbh I haven't heard anything about HDR on PC monitors. Got some links to concrete models?

 

[knitoe]

Do you guys think I somehow destroyed some of my RAM slots? (I can't see how I possibly could have done this simply by upping my DDR4 ram from 2400/2666hz but I'm at a loss.) I have to use specific RAM slots for Dual/Quad channel so I'm not sure how to test each individual slot. All the ram seems fine though.

Are you using XMP or manually setting your ram to spec? If XMP, try manually. If that works, update to the latest bios.

 

[nightmare-slain]

i have a question about overclocking my GPU. i have a MSI gtx 1070 and i'm using MSI afterburner to overclock it. i had tested it up to +90 for both core/memory using Firestrike. today i tried +110 for both and Firestrike kept crashing and saying that I cancelled the test which I didn't. is this a sign of instability or is it just the program? this kept happening as i dialled it back a little each time. +95 core / +90 memory was the first one that didn't crash. my system isn't crashing or anything...it's just only Firestrike. also i'm not seeing any kind of artifacting during benchmarks.

i downloaded Heaven benchmark and that runs just fine at +95/95. should i stop overclocking now or see how far i can go with Heaven?

 

[Josh5890]

Put the cooler fan on the other side so it's pushing air across the heatsink.

Ok, wow. Thanks

 

[ISee]

But yah, tbh I haven't heard anything about HDR on PC monitors. Got some links to concrete models?

Nope, but it's coming. I'm impatiently waiting myself.

 

[ISee]

i have a question about overclocking my GPU. i have a MSI gtx 1070 and i'm using MSI afterburner to overclock it. i had tested it up to +90 for both core/memory using Firestrike. today i tried +110 for both and Firestrike kept crashing and saying that I cancelled the test which I didn't. is this a sign of instability or is it just the program? this kept happening as i dialled it back a little each time. +95 core / +90 memory was the first one that didn't crash. my system isn't crashing or anything...it's just only Firestrike. also i'm not seeing any kind of artifacting during benchmarks.

i downloaded Heaven benchmark and that runs just fine at +95/95. should i stop overclocking now or see how far i can go with Heaven?

Artifacts are more or less an indication for your VRAM getting to hot, but they can also appear under different circumstances. In general be careful when overclocking your memory as there is no way to check temperatures there and sometimes they just die instead of producing artifacts especially during long game sessions.

A crashing Firestrike (or driver crash/restart) is a good indication that your overclock isn't stable and just because your OC is stable in one game/benchmark doesn't mean that it will be stable in other games. A stable OC means it doesn't crash at all, so test with firestrike, heaven and some games. That's the only way to know and also the reason why some stable oc claims are at least a bit faulty.

Overclocking in general needs time. First look at your temperatures during normal gaming w/o overclocking. If they are already around 80°C, hands away. Never let your Nvidia GPU get hotter than 80°C.

Look at your power consumption. If it is around 95+% you'll have to increase your powerlimit to be able to hold your clockspeed. But watch out powerlimit and temperature limit are often enough linked, but you can unlink them and set them separately.

Sometimes you'll also have to increase your core voltage if your clockspeed starts changing under high load. Increase it slighly (5-10mv/step) till you reach a stable level. The same goes for crashes. Increasing voltage is sometimes needed to prevent them.

In general 1070/1080 can be stubborn above 2000mhz. Sometimes it's the limit.

Test, check numbers/values, increase stuff slightly, test again, check numbers... repeat till you are at your max stable overclock.

 

[nightmare-slain]

Artifacts are more or less an indication for your VRAM getting to hot, but they can also appear under different circumstances. In general be careful when overclocking your memory as there is no way to check temperatures there and sometimes they just die instead of producing artifacts especially during long game sessions.

A crashing Firestrike (or driver crash/restart) is a good indication that your overclock isn't stable and just because your OC is stable in one game/benchmark doesn't mean that it will be stable in other games. A stable OC means it doesn't crash at all, so test with firestrike, heaven and some games. That's the only way to know and also the reason why some stable oc claims are at least a bit faulty.

Overclocking in general needs time. First look at your temperatures during normal gaming w/o overclocking. If they are already around 80°C, hands away. Never let your Nvidia GPU get hotter than 80°C.

Look at your power consumption. If it is around 95+% you'll have to increase your powerlimit to be able to hold your clockspeed. But watch out powerlimit and temperature limit are often enough linked, but you can unlink them and set them separately.

Sometimes you'll also have to increase your core voltage if your clockspeed starts changing under high load. Increase it slighly (5-10mv/step) till you reach a stable level. The same goes for crashes. Increasing voltage is sometimes needed to prevent them.

In general 1070/1080 can be stubborn above 2000mhz. Sometimes it's the limit.

Test, check numbers/values, increase stuff slightly, test again, check numbers... repeat till you are at your max stable overclock.

thanks! i guess i'll keep it where it is then. both firestrike/heaven aren't crashing at my current settings and i played a bit of overwatch/gta v without issue. as for temperature, my 1070 isn't going over 70C while overclocked and running firestrike/heaven or playing games.

 

[Aztechnology]

Are you using XMP or manually setting your ram to spec? If XMP, try manually. If that works, update to the latest bios.

I'm not using XMP doing manually. Tried with setting to 2400 to run at spec like they were running prior to the crash. Now cleared CMOS and testing at whatever the bios defaulted to which I think is 2133. Tested each RAM unit in DIMM 1 to make sure they all worked. They do. Tested each slot individually with odd results. DIMM 1 posted solo, 2,3,4,8 no post. 7 no post caused a reboot then posted. 6 no post. 5 no post at first then caused reboot post. Testing different configurations now. This is so odd.

1,2 in 8GB work
1, 3 in 8GB works
1,2,3 in 12GB works
1,2,3,4 doesn't work
8,7,6,5 also doesn't work

Edit:

Ok so I tested each stick of RAM independently in the primary slot which posted every time. I then proceeded to test different configurations making sure to wait a few minutes during each attempt to make sure it wasn't just impatience.

+=Posted
- =Failed
(DIMM slots)

1x4 GB
(1): +
(2): -
(3): -
(4): -
(8): -
(7): + confirmed multiple times and switched off then back.
(6): -
(5): +

2x4 GB
(1,2): +
(3,4): +
(8,7): +
(6,5): +
(1,3): -
(2,4): -
(8,6): -
(7,5): -

3x4GB
(1,2,3): +
(8,7,6): -

4x4GB
(1,2,3,4): -
(8,7,6,5): -
(1,3,7,5): -
(2,4,8,6): -

I didn't have time to test all possible configurations as there's a lot. But yea it's frustrating. Keep in mind I used this setup with 16GB ram for 6 months before having a single problem.

 

[test_account]

Well, which A10 APU is it? Something like an A10-7870K could theoretically play that game on 720p mid-low settings without even a discrete card. The game should handle very comfortably with a decent GPU methinks.

However, since you say the computer has a 8670D GPU, I guess it's an A10-6800K?

If I remember correctly even an i3 4160 was able to beat the A10 7860 'CPU' in most cases so it's definitely not a powerhouse CPU but the division seems to run well on most CPUs if you are fine with 30fps when paired with a mid range GPU.

Thanks. I dont know the exact CPU model, only remember that it was A10. I guess its worth a shot trying to upgrade the GPU only. Yeah, i dont think she cares that much about the graphics because some friends at work play it on PC and she wants to join. Its basically just to play that one game, at least for now.

 

[Rur0ni]

Picked up my 3x S2716DG from Best Buy yesterday.

Super pleased with my purchase, nice step up from 1080p. The Dell build quality is great too, doesn't feel cheap. Now to sit on these for a few years until 4K+ is reasonable.

 

[Levyne]

For the case you should be mainly worried about the CPU cooler height. Looking at the 550D tech specs:

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/obsidian-series-550d-mid-tower-quiet-case

The 550d supports a height up to 180 mm which is well over the height of the NH-D15 that has a height of 165mm (with the fan).

You can also check Noctua's site to see their specifications. They also include compatibility with motherboard lists for their products.

Thanks! Noctuas site shows that they are compatible.

---


I have one more question about this board. It has an "M2" slot which I am not really familiar with: all of my SSDs so far have been connected through Sata 3, but the idea of an internal card intrigues me.

If the board has a "Type M" M2 socket that runs in "PCIe Gen3.0 x4" mode or SATA mode, would something like this (Samsung 950 PRO Series - 512GB PCIe NVMe) work with it? Would it affect my PCIe x1 slots? I would be wanting to use one for my sound card so I hope it doesn't.

Edit: Seems I found my answer in an amazon review:

 

[vector824]

I have one more question about this board. It has an "M2" slot which I am not really familiar with: all of my SSDs so far have been connected through Sata 3, but the idea of an internal card intrigues me.

I would go for it. I have the 256gb 950 and it's insanely fast. They're releasing the new 960 in October which will be faster(!) and cheaper if you can wait.

 

[TerryLee81]

Picked up my 3x S2716DG from Best Buy yesterday.

Super pleased with my purchase, nice step up from 1080p. The Dell build quality is great too, doesn't feel cheap. Now to sit on these for a few years until 4K+ is reasonable.

Nice! Can you post a pic of your setup?

 

[WadeitOut]

Picked up my 3x S2716DG from Best Buy yesterday.

Super pleased with my purchase, nice step up from 1080p. The Dell build quality is great too, doesn't feel cheap. Now to sit on these for a few years until 4K+ is reasonable.

It's a great monitor despite what the IPS cult says. Especially for sub $500.

 

[MikeOfAllTrades]

I was going to order all my new build parts online last night, but was shocked at just how much Microcenter kills it on CPU prices, and offers bundle discounts when combined with motherboards, memory, and storage.

I'm so glad to live by one. Results of Microcenter run:

They only had a Zotac 1070 in stock, but I snagged a G1 from Newegg this morning.


Question: The Nano comes with 2 case fans, the G1 is a triple blower (which ejects out the back I presume), and the Corsair H100 cpu cooler has two fans. Am I good? I'd prefer to keep the top vent sealed (for sound and dust purposes) and place the cooler on the front. Is it best to run it as intake with radiator closest to chassis? The former front fan could be thrown on the bottom.

I never really gave much thought to cooling, and am going to take it easy at first, but might do some light overclocking in the future.

 

[knitoe]

I was going to order all my new build parts online last night, but was shocked at just how much Microcenter kills it on CPU prices, and offers bundle discounts when combined with motherboards, memory, and storage.

I'm so glad to live by one. Results of Microcenter run:


They only had a Zotac 1070 in stock, but I snagged a G1 from Newegg this morning.


Question: The Nano comes with 2 case fans, the G1 is a triple blower (which ejects out the back I presume), and the Corsair H100 cpu cooler has two fans. Am I good? I'd prefer to keep the top vent sealed (for sound and dust purposes) and place the cooler on the front. Is it best to run it as intake with radiator closest to chassis? The former front fan could be thrown on the bottom.

I never really gave much thought to cooling, and am going to take it easy at first, but might do some light overclocking in the future.

Are you talking about the 3 fan Gigabyte 1070 G1? If yes, that's not a blower card. It pushes hot air around inside your case which means you would want good airflow through your case. You would want the radiator at the front as a intake. Use the 2 included case fans to blow air out, back and/or top.

 

[dragn]

sorry 2500k you are done, just installed 6700k and 3000mhz ddr4. hitman got 15-25% more fps and way less stutter with a amd 390 <3

 

[MikeOfAllTrades]

Are you talking about the 3 fan Gigabyte 1070 G1? If yes, that's not a blower card. It pushes hot air around inside your case which means you would want good airflow through your case. You would want the radiator at the front as a intake. Use the 2 included case fans to blow air out, back and/or top.

Thanks. Yep, that's the one. I might want one more fan then.

 

[vector824]

I was going to order all my new build parts online last night, but was shocked at just how much Microcenter kills it on CPU prices, and offers bundle discounts when combined with motherboards, memory, and storage.

I'm so glad to live by one. Results of Microcenter run:

They only had a Zotac 1070 in stock, but I snagged a G1 from Newegg this morning.
...
I never really gave much thought to cooling, and am going to take it easy at first, but might do some light overclocking in the future.

Quite the haul my friend! Enjoy! That rig is going to scream.

 

[Iorv3th]

I'm not using XMP doing manually. Tried with setting to 2400 to run at spec like they were running prior to the crash. Now cleared CMOS and testing at whatever the bios defaulted to which I think is 2133. Tested each RAM unit in DIMM 1 to make sure they all worked. They do. Tested each slot individually with odd results. DIMM 1 posted solo, 2,3,4,8 no post. 7 no post caused a reboot then posted. 6 no post. 5 no post at first then caused reboot post. Testing different configurations now. This is so odd.

Boot with 1 stick since you know it works and then do a memtest86 on it. Try each stick. You might also try booting with 1 stick and then downloading an updated bios for your motherboard and try updating it.

So PSU is working that just leaves motherboard and CPU. How would I even test which one might be bad so I can RMA?

It's probably the motherboard. Check the manual though they might have a way to test it. Look at the troubleshooting section.

I was going to order all my new build parts online last night, but was shocked at just how much Microcenter kills it on CPU prices, and offers bundle discounts when combined with motherboards, memory, and storage.

I'm so glad to live by one. Results of Microcenter run:


They only had a Zotac 1070 in stock, but I snagged a G1 from Newegg this morning.


Question: The Nano comes with 2 case fans, the G1 is a triple blower (which ejects out the back I presume), and the Corsair H100 cpu cooler has two fans. Am I good? I'd prefer to keep the top vent sealed (for sound and dust purposes) and place the cooler on the front. Is it best to run it as intake with radiator closest to chassis? The former front fan could be thrown on the bottom.

I never really gave much thought to cooling, and am going to take it easy at first, but might do some light overclocking in the future.

Microcenter is the best place to get CPU from, but they only offer those prices in store and not online. How much did the total set you back without the monitor? Thinking about making a new build soon and giving this one to my nephew.

 

[LilJoka]

I'm not using XMP doing manually. Tried with setting to 2400 to run at spec like they were running prior to the crash. Now cleared CMOS and testing at whatever the bios defaulted to which I think is 2133. Tested each RAM unit in DIMM 1 to make sure they all worked. They do. Tested each slot individually with odd results. DIMM 1 posted solo, 2,3,4,8 no post. 7 no post caused a reboot then posted. 6 no post. 5 no post at first then caused reboot post. Testing different configurations now. This is so odd.

I didn't have time to test all possible configurations as there's a lot. But yea it's frustrating. Keep in mind I used this setup with 16GB ram for 6 months before having a single problem.

Have you simply tried to revert to optimized defaults?
Are there any BIOS updates?

I was going to order all my new build parts online last night, but was shocked at just how much Microcenter kills it on CPU prices, and offers bundle discounts when combined with motherboards, memory, and storage.

I'm so glad to live by one. Results of Microcenter run:

They only had a Zotac 1070 in stock, but I snagged a G1 from Newegg this morning.


Question: The Nano comes with 2 case fans, the G1 is a triple blower (which ejects out the back I presume), and the Corsair H100 cpu cooler has two fans. Am I good? I'd prefer to keep the top vent sealed (for sound and dust purposes) and place the cooler on the front. Is it best to run it as intake with radiator closest to chassis? The former front fan could be thrown on the bottom.

I never really gave much thought to cooling, and am going to take it easy at first, but might do some light overclocking in the future.

This rig will be capable of full on overclocking.
4.5Ghz on the i7 and crank up the 1070 as far as itll go. There wont be any cooling issues, youll likely hit the hardware overclock wall before cooling becomes an issue.

 

[zeroeffect]

Man my PC been restarting playing games. I'm not getting BSODs so I think it's either RAM, MOBO or PSU. No BSOD logs either. I eliminated RAM with memtest and using one stick at a time. No errors reported on memtest. Definitely not overheating. Noticed my voltages are on the high side and I put everything back to stock. This is what it's under load:

+5 = 5.160
+12 = 12.460
+3.3 = 3.392

Those all seem a little on the high side? Doesn't seem like I have much for wiggle room there under load...especially since I'm not OCing right now since I put everything back to stock? +12v seems dangerously close to out of spec since the max is 12.6 I think. +12v drops to about 12.380 when not under load the rest stay about the same. I have a tier 2 PSU in the SeaSonic G-Series. It's about 2 years old. Don't have another one to switch out and test. Opinions?

I was thinking about getting this PSU since Super Flower builds them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010HWDOH6/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Anyone have experiences with that? It was $114 yesterday I'm kicking myself for not ordering it...

 

[Hulud]

Guys, am I crazy or is this configuration actually a decent deal? I took a quick look and it seems it would not be easier or cheaper to hand-build this from parts from NewEgg.

It says my grand total after a 5% off promo code is $1,380.35. This includes a 1year warranty on all parts too...seems actually reasonable?

http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1J1CQ6

I never trust these prebuilt sites and assume they are ripoffs, but I don't see anything too nefarious here.

edit: notice it also comes with a free keyboard, mouse, headset, and mousepad.

 

[MikeOfAllTrades]

Microcenter is the best place to get CPU from, but they only offer those prices in store and not online. How much did the total set you back without the monitor? Thinking about making a new build soon and giving this one to my nephew.

Oh didn't know this couldn't be done online.

Prices before tax:
$289.99 - i7 6700k
$133.99 - Asus Z1701i
$99.99 - Corsair H100i V2 Cooler
$159.99 - WD Black 4 TB
$309.99 - Samsung 950 Pro M.2 NVME 512
$84.99 - Corsair Vengeance 3200 16 GB
$87.99 - FD Nano S /w Window
-$40 combo discount for CPU, MOBO, and M.2

$1,126.93 Total

This beat out Amazon by over $100, and newegg by around $30.

 

[Matty8787]

Just bought me an i7 5820k yay!

Anyhoo, which mobo do we all recommend? I don't even mind going second hand (UK btw)

 

[ISee]

sorry 2500k you are done, just installed 6700k and 3000mhz ddr4. hitman got 15-25% more fps and way less stutter with a amd 390 <3

Congratulations. Good choice. I was also holding on to my 3570k for too long. Upgrading to the 6700k also gave me a significant performance boost in some games. FPS nearly even doubled in JC3.

 

[vector824]

Guys, am I crazy or is this configuration actually a decent deal? I took a quick look and it seems it would not be easier or cheaper to hand-build this from parts from NewEgg.

It says my grand total after a 5% off promo code is $1,380.35. This includes a 1year warranty on all parts too...seems actually reasonable?

http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1J1CQ6

I never trust these prebuilt sites and assume they are ripoffs, but I don't see anything too nefarious here.

edit: notice it also comes with a free keyboard, mouse, headset, and mousepad.

Yeah I ran a part-picker check and it is pretty reasonable. I would get an M.2 SSD on the side if you can swing it. That SATA drive is going to bottleneck a system like that.

 

[ISee]

Yeah I ran a part-picker check and it is pretty reasonable. I would get an M.2 SSD on the side if you can swing it. That SATA drive is going to bottleneck a system like that.

I mean sure a m.2 ssd is fine, but bottleneck? Performance wise? What?

 

[vector824]

I mean sure a m.2 ssd is fine, but bottleneck? Performance wise? What?

You're talking a huge increase in data transfer speeds for an m.2 over a sata III drive. If you've got that much processing power it's definitely going to be the slowest part of the computer.

Edit: The biggest bottle neck you'll see for today's current tech is in the HD sector, mostly because of data transfer rates over SATA, this is where the M.2 connector comes in. The M.2 connector effectively runs up to 3.94Gb/s versus SATA III 600MB/s for transfer speeds. You can see that's a HUGE difference. There's also big read/write speed advantage with the 950 Pro vs the 850 Evo, 2200MB/s vs 550MB/s read and 900MB/s (256GB) vs 520MB/s (256GB) write, which equals faster boot times also.

Sources:
950 Pro review
950 Pro vs. 850 Series

 

[Gav]

Try this on for size:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($147.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($92.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($62.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($8.99 @ Directron)
Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow Series 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($8.99 @ Directron)
Total: $883.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-01 06:27 EDT-0400

Thankyou!

I'm in the UK, and there's a couple of bits I'll be reusing (and I want a new gpu) but will use this for starters.

Cheers.

 

[ISee]

You're talking a huge increase in data transfer speeds for an m.2 over a sata III drive. If you've got that much processing power it's definitely going to be the slowest part of the computer.

Edit: The biggest bottle neck you'll see for today's current tech is in the HD sector, mostly because of data transfer rates over SATA, this is where the M.2 connector comes in. The M.2 connector effectively runs up to 3.94Gb/s versus SATA III 600MB/s for transfer speeds. You can see that's a HUGE difference. There's also big read/write speed advantage with the 950 Pro vs the 850 Evo, 2200MB/s vs 550MB/s read and 900MB/s (256GB) vs 520MB/s (256GB) write, which equals faster boot times also.

Sources:
950 Pro review
950 Pro vs. 850 Series

Of course it will help with loading times, boot times and it can be a worthwhile investment overall because who likes waiting for stuff to load and people handling large files daily should definitely get it. But it won't bottleneck your processing power or your overall performance in games and the difference in loading times between a ssd and a m.2 drive isn't dramatic in normale scenarios like office, webbrowsing, boot up time or gaming.

 

[zeroeffect]

I just looked up ATX specifications and they're as listed:

Supply [V] Tolerance Range (min. to max.) Ripple (p. to p. max.)
+5 VDC ±5% (±0.25 V) +4.75 V to +5.25 V 50 mV
-5 VDC ±10% (±0.50 V) –4.50 V to –5.50 V 50 mV
+12 VDC ±5% (±0.60 V) +11.40 V to +12.60 V 120 mV
-12 VDC ±10% (±1.2 V) –10.8 V to –13.2 V 120 mV
+3.3 VDC ±5% (±0.165 V) +3.135 V to +3.465 V 50 mV
+5 VSB ±5% (±0.25 V) +4.75 V to +5.25 V 50 mV

So as I suspected above the +12 is getting really too high at 12.460. I think my PSU spikes at load playing a game making it reboot and I'm not getting BSODs. Ugh. This sucks.

Also, to add to this problem I had to underclock my GPU to factory settings in order to get it to run stable. I at first thought it was the GPU and had EVGA send me 2 new cards so that can't be error on their part. Recently my PC was having a hard time waking up from sleep too. I'd actually have to power the PC down and when I turned it back on it would "remember" where it was at without logging into Windows or anything. That's weird...so I suspect all this combined means my PSU is going bad.

Any objections to that EVGA P2 PSU above I posted? A little expensive but for a 10 year warranty why not for a little more efficiency. It was 114 yesterday so it was excellent value now it's up to 129 so not as good value there.

 

[23qwerty]

Guys, am I crazy or is this configuration actually a decent deal? I took a quick look and it seems it would not be easier or cheaper to hand-build this from parts from NewEgg.

It says my grand total after a 5% off promo code is $1,380.35. This includes a 1year warranty on all parts too...seems actually reasonable?

http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1J1CQ6

I never trust these prebuilt sites and assume they are ripoffs, but I don't see anything too nefarious here.

edit: notice it also comes with a free keyboard, mouse, headset, and mousepad.

I can't believe how cheap shit is in the states x.x

 

[vector824]

Thankyou!

I'm in the UK, and there's a couple of bits I'll be reusing (and I want a new gpu) but will use this for starters.

Cheers.

No problem, it's definitely a good starting point. Stick with the i5 and 3000mhz ram for sure. I didn't add a GPU for that reason, there's quite a few options out there right now.

 

[Zeneric]

What is an excellent and quiet (quietest possible) mechanical keyboard? Was looking at this http://matias.ca/quietpro/ . Is it worth the price?

 

[Aztechnology]

Boot with 1 stick since you know it works and then do a memtest86 on it. Try each stick. You might also try booting with 1 stick and then downloading an updated bios for your motherboard and try updating it.



It's probably the motherboard. Check the manual though they might have a way to test it. Look at the troubleshooting section.

Yea I tested each stick or the memory early this morning, no problems there. I also opened a thread on the MSI forums and I see a good amount of people with the same issue as myself using this board. They had me check the CPU for bent pins (there were none) which is kind of ridiculous seeing as the computer worked flawlessly for 6 months. Surely if I had bent pins there would have been an issue long before this.

Have you simply tried to revert to optimized defaults?
Are there any BIOS updates?

I did yes, also I'm on the latest bios.

 

[LilJoka]

Yea I tested each stick or the memory early this morning, no problems there. I also opened a thread on the MSI forums and I see a good amount of people with the same issue as myself using this board. They had me check the CPU for bent pins (there were none) which is kind of ridiculous seeing as the computer worked flawlessly for 6 months. Surely if I had bent pins there would have been an issue long before this.

I did yes, also I'm on the latest bios.

Whenever there is flakey reliability like this, it's usually the board.

 

[Megabat]

Guys, am I crazy or is this configuration actually a decent deal? I took a quick look and it seems it would not be easier or cheaper to hand-build this from parts from NewEgg.

It says my grand total after a 5% off promo code is $1,380.35. This includes a 1year warranty on all parts too...seems actually reasonable?

http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1J1CQ6

I never trust these prebuilt sites and assume they are ripoffs, but I don't see anything too nefarious here.

edit: notice it also comes with a free keyboard, mouse, headset, and mousepad.

You would definitely want a better CPU cooler. The 6800K is a high-end CPU. The Cooler master 212 is okay, but if you were building this machine, you'd at least run a Noctua D14 or a 240mm closed-loop liquid cooler. That, and it heats up pretty steeply when overclocked. You'd also want to add a larger mechanical hard drive or SSD. 120GB is not much once you've got a Windows installation and programs.

Other than that, yeah; it's pretty good. Buying pre-built will save you a mountain of hassle.

 

[Megabat]

You're talking a huge increase in data transfer speeds for an m.2 over a sata III drive. If you've got that much processing power it's definitely going to be the slowest part of the computer.

Edit: The biggest bottle neck you'll see for today's current tech is in the HD sector, mostly because of data transfer rates over SATA, this is where the M.2 connector comes in. The M.2 connector effectively runs up to 3.94Gb/s versus SATA III 600MB/s for transfer speeds. You can see that's a HUGE difference. There's also big read/write speed advantage with the 950 Pro vs the 850 Evo, 2200MB/s vs 550MB/s read and 900MB/s (256GB) vs 520MB/s (256GB) write, which equals faster boot times also.

Sources:
950 Pro review
950 Pro vs. 850 Series

While this is all true, a SATA SSD is certainly good enough for someone who just wants to play video games.