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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Bloodember

Member
Looking to start my first ITX build but need suggestions on ITX cases that aren't a royal pain to build in and don't cost an arm and a leg!
Would like to put a single 1070 in it so that has to somehow fit; but I'd like to keep it as small as possible. Also I'm in the EU.

And what'd be an affordable ITX motherboard if I'm not looking to OC? 1151 socket.


EDIT: wow it's my first time being at the top of anything, HYPE.
The NZXT Manta or the Phanteks Evolv ITX.
 

Joqu

Member
Ok GAF, please help. I'm looking into building a PC for the first time ever, pretty anxious really. Looking for suggestions.

So I might not actually go with this but I figured I should come up with a build using my max budget first, 2000 euro, so this one's themed "pricey". I do still need to buy stuff like a good monitor though, so I'm thinking I might want to consider going lower so I can afford to spend more on that. I dunno.

My goal is to get something future-proof here. I'll be using it for intensive gaming, emulation, especially Dolphin, VR, streaming, work, video editing, photo editing and digital art. I do want to go all in here.

And it HAS to be as quiet as possible. I'm really sensitive to background noise.

Anyway, quite a lot of time spent on research I came up with a list of parts and I had a PC gaming friend look over it. He made some changes I'm not sure about though so I hope you guys can offer some feedback too.

Don't mind the pricing too much. I'm Belgian, not German, so I probably won't go with Amazon.de for all this, I've got some decent alternatives. Just had to go with that for a rough estimate:


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (€347.73 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (€65.00)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€149.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€90.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€90.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€149.00)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (€139.00)
Video Card: Gainward GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Phoenix GS Video Card (€749.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (€105.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€111.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-AC68 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (€65.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €2063.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-05 22:45 CEST+0200

Ok, some questions and notes:

1) So first of all uh, would all this work?

Gainward's Phoenix GTX 1080 looks REALLY big so I'm a bit concerned about that for example, though I believe it's supposed to be one of the better 1080s?

2) In general I AM doubting my GPU choice here though, mostly budget-wise.
I want to go with something really good but it being such a recent release and the availability being a problem I'm tempted to go with a cheaper short term GPU? Especially because it'd free up some budget to spend on accessories. So any suggestions there would be more than welcome.
And yeah, I'm already a bit over budget here anyway. Now removing the wi-fi adapter would do the trick, it's a bit on the pricey side, but comparing it to my other options it seems pretty great. Could leave it out for now though, it'd just that going wired is going to be a bit tricky right now.

3) Also, compared to the suggestions in the OP the cpu cooler looks like overkill to me, you can thank my friend for that, he says it'd be real quiet,. Though it does appear to be cheaper than the market average so I'm tempted, that price is from a local store.
But on top of that my friend's adamant I need to buy an additional case fan with the fractal design r5? I sorta doubt that? The reason I'm going with the r5 in particular by the way, outside of loving the design, and not say their Define S, is because I do want to have the option to add a disc drive later on.

4) Also, motherboard doubts. Looking at Asus' Z170 options alone I'm confused already. The build recommendations in the OP list the Z170 Pro, I assume that doesn't mean the Pro Gaming? The former does look prettier... So yeah, clueless regarding what I should go with here.

5) There's that battery backup mention in the OP too. Makes sense to me, but what do I buy? I haven't delved too deeply into this but a quick search for local ones only shows stuff that costs 300 euro or more, though I could import. But that seems like a lot? Am I looking at the wrong kind?



Other than all that I'm mostly anxious about assembly, though I do really want to put it together myself. I've watched videos and all that. It looks easier than I thought it would but cable management sounds like a pain, I'm unsure what the status is on the need of manually adding thermal paste and in general I'm just not very handy. Heck, I'll probably have to buy a suitable screwdriver.

Big thanks to anyone who was willing to read through this whole thing! ^^'
 
So, I think I want to attempt overclocking my MSI 980ti again. The result of my first attempt scared the crap out of me but now that the GPU is performing normally again I think I want to give it another go. Does anyone have any tips or guides I should follow?

The guide that I had read told me to put the voltage slider to max in MSI Afterburner and I think that's why I ran into issues. Do I even need to mess with voltage or what?
 

knitoe

Member
So, I think I want to attempt overclocking my MSI 980ti again. The result of my first attempt scared the crap out of me but now that the GPU is performing normally again I think I want to give it another go. Does anyone have any tips or guides I should follow?

The guide that I had read told me to put the voltage slider to max in MSI Afterburner and I think that's why I ran into issues. Do I even need to mess with voltage or what?

Sliding the very outage to the max shouldn't have been the issue. More likely, you increase the gpu and/or memory sliders to where it was unstable. How much of an increase did you tried? If you want to be safe, add small amount at a time and test each time. For example, add 25 to gpu and test. If pass, keep on increasing by 25. If fail, go back 25 and increase by a lesser amount. Once you find the best amount, repeat the same with the memory slider.
 
Sliding the very outage to the max shouldn't have been the issue. More likely, you increase the gpu and/or memory sliders to where it was unstable. How much of an increase did you tried? If you want to be safe, add small amount at a time and test each time. For example, add 25 to gpu and test. If pass, keep on increasing by 25. If fail, go back 25 and increase by a lesser amount. Once you find the best amount, repeat the same with the memory slider.

The increase I tried was 199+ core boost and I hadn't even touched the memory boost before issues popped up. The guide I was following said to take the maximum OC achieved on my card, subtract the current clock that I had with the card and then boost the card by 3/4ths of that value. I feel like I made a mistake somewhere along the way so maybe it was my own fault.

So, to reiterate: I should max out the Core Voltage? I have my computer plugged into a power bar with the other seven slots on the power bar filled, for the record (can't reach the wall plug from where my desk is). The PSU I'm using is an EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GS so I dunno if that can handle a 980ti/i7 6700k.

Also, can I OC my GPU while using the MSI Game Boost feature in this BIOS? My MOBO is the MSI z170a Gaming M5.
 

ombz

Member
BIOS is probably running RAM training for the secondary and tertiary timings.
It doesnt indicate stability, you should run a stress test like HCI memtest or Prime95 blend to determine if its actually stable.

I'm am fairly certain my RAM is stable. I've read on other forums that enabling fast MRC reduces boot time but does this by eliminating memory training. As I don't completely understand RAM training would enabling fast MRC have adverse affects?

It would be nice to have the faster boot time ( around 6 seconds instead of 16) but it is not worth it if it is unsafe.
 

Arc07

Member
So doing my first custom loop and decided to go with an EK XE-360 for the top. Did a quick test fit and came to the conclusion that thick radiators are thick.

2MAALtU.jpg
 
PC-Gaf sorry if this is a dumb question but what are the benefits of having a second monitor? Thinking of saving up for a monitor or a 1tb SSD. I already use a 250gb samsung SSD for my OS.
 

LostDonkey

Member
Hello guys. So I built myself a new PC.

I7 6700k watercooled with a h100i V2 on a Hero VIII Mobo, 16gb DDR4 and a GTX 1070 all running along really nicely on Windows 10 pro 64 bit.

Every now and again, after opening apps or games and sometimes entirely randomly I will get 1, 2 or maybe even 3 instances of a process called windows host rundll32. It eats up about 15% of my cpu in each instance and causes my radiator fans to go bananas until I kill off the processes. I've checked If they are legit and they seem to sit in win 32 where they should be, I've done virus and malware checks and all has come up clean. PC is only about a month old.

Any tips? It was a fresh win 10 install. I've tried the sfc /scan now repair tool and it has found corrupt files it can't repair. Do I need to do a fresh install or is there an easier way?

Thanks.
 

knitoe

Member
The increase I tried was 199+ core boost and I hadn't even touched the memory boost before issues popped up. The guide I was following said to take the maximum OC achieved on my card, subtract the current clock that I had with the card and then boost the card by 3/4ths of that value. I feel like I made a mistake somewhere along the way so maybe it was my own fault.

So, to reiterate: I should max out the Core Voltage? I have my computer plugged into a power bar with the other seven slots on the power bar filled, for the record (can't reach the wall plug from where my desk is). The PSU I'm using is an EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GS so I dunno if that can handle a 980ti/i7 6700k.

Also, can I OC my GPU while using the MSI Game Boost feature in this BIOS? My MOBO is the MSI z170a Gaming M5.

Max the voltage slider may give you a higher OC. So, you with it or try without any voltage increase, but first, trying +199 core right away was probably too high for your card. As I already mention, to be safe, take it slow by trying increase by +25 increments and test. Start with the core, and then later on, the memory.
 
windows 10 failed fast startup with error status 0xC00000D4

Um, anyone wanna take a guess as to what the fuck is going on? I left my PC idle for 5 1/2 hours and come back to it crashed with a black screen of death.
 

reKon

Banned
I had an issue with the latest AMD drivers not allowing me to enable VSR. Anyone know if this has been resolved on the latest drivers?
 
Would someone mind giving me some suggestions on my build? Bought a Saphire 480 8gb yesterday on the cheap, and am now trying to integrate it into a relatively cheap build. These are Aussie prices, though I was hoping to spend around $700-$800 AUD, excluding the already purchased GPU.

Build: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/KKh4Cy
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Ok GAF, please help. I'm looking into building a PC for the first time ever, pretty anxious really. Looking for suggestions.

So I might not actually go with this but I figured I should come up with a build using my max budget first, 2000 euro, so this one's themed "pricey". I do still need to buy stuff like a good monitor though, so I'm thinking I might want to consider going lower so I can afford to spend more on that. I dunno.

My goal is to get something future-proof here. I'll be using it for intensive gaming, emulation, especially Dolphin, VR, streaming, work, video editing, photo editing and digital art. I do want to go all in here.

And it HAS to be as quiet as possible. I'm really sensitive to background noise.

Anyway, quite a lot of time spent on research I came up with a list of parts and I had a PC gaming friend look over it. He made some changes I'm not sure about though so I hope you guys can offer some feedback too.

Don't mind the pricing too much. I'm Belgian, not German, so I probably won't go with Amazon.de for all this, I've got some decent alternatives. Just had to go with that for a rough estimate:


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (€347.73 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (€65.00)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€149.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€90.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€90.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€149.00)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (€139.00)
Video Card: Gainward GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Phoenix GS Video Card (€749.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (€105.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€111.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-AC68 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (€65.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €2063.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-05 22:45 CEST+0200

Ok, some questions and notes:

1) So first of all uh, would all this work?

Gainward's Phoenix GTX 1080 looks REALLY big so I'm a bit concerned about that for example, though I believe it's supposed to be one of the better 1080s?

2) In general I AM doubting my GPU choice here though, mostly budget-wise.
I want to go with something really good but it being such a recent release and the availability being a problem I'm tempted to go with a cheaper short term GPU? Especially because it'd free up some budget to spend on accessories. So any suggestions there would be more than welcome.
And yeah, I'm already a bit over budget here anyway. Now removing the wi-fi adapter would do the trick, it's a bit on the pricey side, but comparing it to my other options it seems pretty great. Could leave it out for now though, it'd just that going wired is going to be a bit tricky right now.

3) Also, compared to the suggestions in the OP the cpu cooler looks like overkill to me, you can thank my friend for that, he says it'd be real quiet,. Though it does appear to be cheaper than the market average so I'm tempted, that price is from a local store.
But on top of that my friend's adamant I need to buy an additional case fan with the fractal design r5? I sorta doubt that? The reason I'm going with the r5 in particular by the way, outside of loving the design, and not say their Define S, is because I do want to have the option to add a disc drive later on.

4) Also, motherboard doubts. Looking at Asus' Z170 options alone I'm confused already. The build recommendations in the OP list the Z170 Pro, I assume that doesn't mean the Pro Gaming? The former does look prettier... So yeah, clueless regarding what I should go with here.

5) There's that battery backup mention in the OP too. Makes sense to me, but what do I buy? I haven't delved too deeply into this but a quick search for local ones only shows stuff that costs 300 euro or more, though I could import. But that seems like a lot? Am I looking at the wrong kind?



Other than all that I'm mostly anxious about assembly, though I do really want to put it together myself. I've watched videos and all that. It looks easier than I thought it would but cable management sounds like a pain, I'm unsure what the status is on the need of manually adding thermal paste and in general I'm just not very handy. Heck, I'll probably have to buy a suitable screwdriver.

Big thanks to anyone who was willing to read through this whole thing! ^^'

1) all your parts will work. your cpu/ram/motherboard/psu/case are all compatible so yeah everything will work together without issue. i seriously doubt you'll have trouble fitting that 1080 in your case. it's not the fastest card with stock speeds but it's not bad. i can't speak for the make as i've never owned any of their cards. the models i go for are either msi/asus/evga/gigabyte but that's just me. i see your RAM is 3200mhz. you might not be able to get those speed. at 4.5Ghz cpu OC and ram at 3200 my system was quite unstable and i had to lower the speed to 2933. if you can get 2666/2933 sticks cheaper then i'd go for them. i'm not familiar with that particular PSU but i do have the EVGA Supernova G2 and it is fantastic. Never cheap out on a PSU. pay a bit extra for a good quality one.

2) the 1080 is an insane card. what resolution/framerate you going to play at? for this card 1440p 60fps is the minimum. if you don't mind 4k 30fps then this card will do that no problem. if you are happy with 1080p/1440p then right now the 1070 would be better. the 1070 is more of a 1440p card and destroys pretty much everything at 1080p. nvidia will release the 1060 which would be better suited for exclusive 1080p gaming.

3) i can't speak for the bequiet cpu cooler but from what i've read it is quite good. i was actually looking at it myself for my recent new build but i went with the Hyper 212X which is fantastic and is about 50% cheaper! even when running prime 95 blend (stress test) with my i7-6700K overclocked to 4.6Ghz the fan was still very silent. there is a difference of course but i didn't find it distracting at all. temperatures never exceeded 74C. if you don't know what prime 95 does...it has your CPU at 100% across all cores (4/8 for my i7-6700k) and the temperatures are the absolute highest they will go. under normal usage including gaming they won't get that high. usually they sit about 50-60C depending on the game. right now my CPU is 22C and all i'm doing is browsing through chrome/streaming spotify.

as for the case, the R5 is a brilliant one. i went for the define s because i didn't want any optical trays and liked how the hdd's are hidden round the back instead of out front blocking airflow. the define s and r5 come with 2 fans. i have a total of 4 fractal gp-14's in my case right now and i can't hear a thing from them. i am still trying to get used to just how quiet this case is. i think you'll be very happy with the r5.

4) as for motherboard, just get one that does what you want it to do. make sure it has the right ports you need and can accept all your other components. if you plan on doing XFIRE/SLI then make sure it can do that. i have the msi z170a g43 plus and the only reason i went with it is because i thought it looked good and it also happened to be the cheapest.

i was the exact same when building my first pc. i spend hours watching videos and reading guides. once everything had been put together i felt that the hardest part was cable management but only because i had picked a poor case which had very little room. when doing my current PC with the fractal define s the cable management was so much easier. plenty of room and it uses velcro ties so no messing about with cable ties. with the R5 case i wouldn't worry about cable management. other than that building a PC is very straight forward. you have done a good job of making sure all the parts are compatible so everything will just slide/screw/clip into place. some things might need an extra bit of force to clip in but you shouldn't be applying enough to do any damage. if something refuses to go in then you're just doing it wrong.

as for thermal paste on the cpu...a pea size of paste in the middle is enough. or if you want look at the capacitors on the motherboard near the cpu and try squeeze out enough to match the size of that.

DclvPdH.jpg


i'm not a fan of the line method or spreading it with a finger. just stick a tiny pea size on then put your cooler on. i just used the paste that came with my 212x.

hope this helped but if you have any questions just post them :)

Is a Cooler Master Hyper T2 good enough to OC an i7 6700K to at least 4.5GHz?

the cooler master hyper 212x is good enough to OC the i7-6700K to 4.6Ghz. i done it just the other day. max 74C temp under prime95 and about 25C under normal usage.
 

coughlanio

Member
So, I'm unfortunately looking at PC upgrades. I currently have the following:

Intel Core i5-4670k
Asus H97-PRO
16GB G.Skill Ripjaws X 2400MHz
EVGA GTX 970 SC
120GB Samsung 840 EVO
500GB Samsung 850 EVO
Corsair RM750

Considering the following upgrades:

Intel Core i7-6800K
ASUS X99 Sabertooth
32GB G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200MHz
EVGA GTX 970 SC
500GB Samsung 950 Pro
500GB Samsung 850 EVO
Corsair RM750

I'd be hoping to upgrade to the Titan P (I play at 4K) at release depending on the price. Is the 6800K a smart choice, or would I be better served getting the 6700K and putting the savings somewhere else in the build?
 

MoonGred

Member
Does anyone have any experience with blowing a PSU? I just got home and installed my 1080 and changed the 24pin connector cable, and 2 pci 8 pin cables, checked everything, turned the pc on heard a loud pop and it actually tripped the fuse of the power board.

I'm pretty sure the PSU is actually toast as my pc now even won't boot up anymore, I went over all the cabling and everything is the way it's supposed to be and no cabling is bare either.

Would the entire system be ruined or just the PSU? My biggest worry at the moment is the 1080, I can drop by a friends place to test it, but don't want to damage his system
 

coughlanio

Member
Does anyone have any experience with blowing a PSU? I just got home and installed my 1080 and changed the 24pin connector cable, and 2 pci 8 pin cables, checked everything, turned the pc on heard a loud pop and it actually tripped the fuse of the power board.

I'm pretty sure the PSU is actually toast as my pc now even won't boot up anymore, I went over all the cabling and everything is the way it's supposed to be and no cabling is bare either.

Would the entire system be ruined or just the PSU? My biggest worry at the moment is the 1080, I can drop by a friends place to test it, but don't want to damage his system

When you say 'changed the 24pin connector cable', what do you mean? Could you smell anything?
 

MoonGred

Member
When you say 'changed the 24pin connector cable', what do you mean? Could you smell anything?

Sorry should have clarified, was stressing out fairly bad which.
The 24pin ATX cable. The only reason why I did this is because I bought sleeved cables from cablemod.
There was a slight burning smell coming from the PSU, I use a corsair Air240, and the actual compartment of the case the the parts are didn't smell like anything.

Just got back from a friend and the card still seem to be working which is a massive relief.

Next step will be hunting down a new PSU before the weekend to see how much damage was actually caused. Ideally nothing is broken but if I need to replace mono/cpu/heatsink so be it.

I really can't figure out what trigger it, to the point that the fuse blew.
 

Vuze

Member
Sorry should have clarified, was stressing out fairly bad which.
The 24pin ATX cable. The only reason why I did this is because I bought sleeved cables from cablemod.
There was a slight burning smell coming from the PSU, I use a corsair Air240, and the actual compartment of the case the the parts are didn't smell like anything.
Holy shit, you're making me kinda anxious. I have an ATX + 2x8pin VGA Cablemod cables ready to do exactly the same you did for when my 1080 arrives.
 

MoonGred

Member
Holy shit, you're making me kinda anxious. I have an ATX + 2x8pin Cablemod cables ready to do exactly the same you did for when my 1080 arrives.

Don't stress too much about it, if you want to play it real safe replace the cable and do a boot without the gpu.
The 24 pin ATX is the only thing that I can think of that would have had an impact though.
 

Vuze

Member
Don't stress too much about it, if you want to play it real safe replace the cable and do a boot without the gpu.
The 24 pin ATX is the only thing that I can think of that would have had an impact though.
Not in particular stressed about the 1080 but in general about frying CPU/Mobo/PSU. I just checked their Facebook and saw a pic of a GAFfers build from a while ago who reported his ATX power cable outright refused to work.
You'd think for the asking price they'd use some quality components or do QC...

I'll just carefully replace the cables one by one to minimize damage in the case of defects.
 

MoonGred

Member
Not in particular stressed about the 1080 but in general about frying CPU/Mobo/PSU. I just checked their Facebook and saw a pic of a GAFfers build from a while ago who reported his ATX power cable outright refused to work.
You'd think for the asking price they'd use some quality components or do QC...

I'll just carefully replace the cables one by one to minimize damage in the case of defects.

Yea exactly, I assumed they were a reputable brand.

Does anyone want to weigh in on PSU choice. I'm coming from a Corsair RM series and am a bit reluctant to return even though PSU most likely didn't have anything to do with it. It will either be

EVGA Supernova 650W or Thermaltake Smart DPS G 650.

The fact that my gpu survived gives me a sliver of hope that the rest may be intact as well.
 

baphomet

Member
Just posting on the next page...

I no longer have an sli option in the nvidia control panel. Both cards show up and working, but the option is completely gone.

Any ideas?
 

BraXzy

Member
I'm potentially planning on doing a complete rebuild towards the end of this year or early next year. Just wondering when do people think would be a good time to do it so I can budget savings toward a rough date? It'll be a high end rig.
 

Fishook

Member
I'm potentially planning on doing a complete rebuild towards the end of this year or early next year. Just wondering when do people think would be a good time to do it so I can budget savings toward a rough date? It'll be a high end rig.

Depends if you are based in the UK as my rig has got £80 (a high end one) more expensive since two weeks ago, and judging how stuff is going it may get even more pricey
 
I'm potentially planning on doing a complete rebuild towards the end of this year or early next year. Just wondering when do people think would be a good time to do it so I can budget savings toward a rough date? It'll be a high end rig.

October\November for this year, and February for next year probably. Going into the holiday season there's usually some good deals, and after New Years they try and shove out old inventory before any new stuff is announced. Also means by then Nvidia\AMD will have had plenty of time to fill out their product lines and get actual GPU's on shelves for more than a few hours here and there, and at stable prices.
 
I'm building a PC for my dad and I'm torn on the CPU. He's by no means a power user, just need the PC to be snappy for around a decade. I've got €150 left on his tight budget for a MOBO and CPU. I've been eyeing the G3258 for a while now and it seems the best option budget wise. Any alternatives?
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
So, I'm unfortunately looking at PC upgrades. I currently have the following:

Intel Core i5-4670k
Asus H97-PRO
16GB G.Skill Ripjaws X 2400MHz
EVGA GTX 970 SC
120GB Samsung 840 EVO
500GB Samsung 850 EVO
Corsair RM750

Considering the following upgrades:

Intel Core i7-6800K
ASUS X99 Sabertooth
32GB G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200MHz
EVGA GTX 970 SC
500GB Samsung 950 Pro
500GB Samsung 850 EVO
Corsair RM750

I'd be hoping to upgrade to the Titan P (I play at 4K) at release depending on the price. Is the 6800K a smart choice, or would I be better served getting the 6700K and putting the savings somewhere else in the build?

why are you upgrading? that's still a rather powerful CPU and your RAM is fine. 2400 above DDR4 speeds (2133) and you might not get 3200 out those new sticks. i bought 3200 sticks and had to drop to 2933.

anyway, i'd go with the i7-6700K unless you know you need the extra features a i7-6800k brings like 6-cores, more PCI lanes, higher RAM limit. also know that the i7-6800K doesn't have integrated graphics. performance wise the 6800K might have a faster multicore speed but generally in games you aren't going to see much a difference.

also do you really need 32GB of RAM? 8GB is still fine these days but 16GB is becoming more common. 32GB is insane just for a system that plays games. again if you know you need it then go for it. the ssd i see is the 950 you could save a fair bit by sticking with 850.

so you could save money by going to the i7-6700K, a z170a motherboard, 850 ssd, and getting 16GB RAM. i would use that extra money to either a) buying a higher capacity SSD or b) put towards the Titan card.

I'm building a PC for my dad and I'm torn on the CPU. He's by no means a power user, just need the PC to be snappy for around a decade. I've got €150 left on his tight budget for a MOBO and CPU. I've been eyeing the G3258 for a while now and it seems the best option budget wise. Any alternatives?

the G3258 is a great CPU and it can even be overclocked! it should run fine at stock speeds and if say in a couple years he feels it's slowing down a bit you can stick in a good cooler and overclock it. don't use the stock fan if overclocking and make sure the PSU is powerful enough to let you overclock.
 
Got most of my components for my black and white Skylake build now. Will be getting my CPU and Water Cooler in the next 2 weeks and then I can get it up and running.

Then the last few bits (GPU, LED Lights and White PSU extension cables) I will get in the following few weeks to add the finishing touch and I can use my GTX 760 as a temp GPU, while I save a little for the GTX 1070 or 1080.





Case - Phanteks Enthoo Primo
MB - Msi XPower Gaming Titanium
RAM - Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB DDR4 (3200)
 

thenameDS

Member
I've caved in and decided to moved my computer to the desk and run a HDMI cable around the skirting board to the tv for when I want to play on the couch with a controller.

I bought a AOC G2460PG monitor which should be here tomorrow. I also have a Fiio E10K and AKG K702 headset in my Amazon basket ready to order. Really looking forward to trying out G-Sync and see what the hype is about.

In November or December is will be buying the GTX 1080 and a Asus PG279Q or Acer Predator XB271HU. Wish I could have bought them now but just booked a holiday so my funds were a little more limited.
 

Vipu

Banned
Ok GAF, please help. I'm looking into building a PC for the first time ever, pretty anxious really. Looking for suggestions.

So I might not actually go with this but I figured I should come up with a build using my max budget first, 2000 euro, so this one's themed "pricey". I do still need to buy stuff like a good monitor though, so I'm thinking I might want to consider going lower so I can afford to spend more on that. I dunno.

My goal is to get something future-proof here. I'll be using it for intensive gaming, emulation, especially Dolphin, VR, streaming, work, video editing, photo editing and digital art. I do want to go all in here.

And it HAS to be as quiet as possible. I'm really sensitive to background noise.

Anyway, quite a lot of time spent on research I came up with a list of parts and I had a PC gaming friend look over it. He made some changes I'm not sure about though so I hope you guys can offer some feedback too.

Don't mind the pricing too much. I'm Belgian, not German, so I probably won't go with Amazon.de for all this, I've got some decent alternatives. Just had to go with that for a rough estimate:


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (€347.73 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (€65.00)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€149.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€90.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€90.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€149.00)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (€139.00)
Video Card: Gainward GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Phoenix GS Video Card (€749.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (€105.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€111.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-AC68 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (€65.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €2063.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-05 22:45 CEST+0200

Ok, some questions and notes:

1) So first of all uh, would all this work?

Gainward's Phoenix GTX 1080 looks REALLY big so I'm a bit concerned about that for example, though I believe it's supposed to be one of the better 1080s?

2) In general I AM doubting my GPU choice here though, mostly budget-wise.
I want to go with something really good but it being such a recent release and the availability being a problem I'm tempted to go with a cheaper short term GPU? Especially because it'd free up some budget to spend on accessories. So any suggestions there would be more than welcome.
And yeah, I'm already a bit over budget here anyway. Now removing the wi-fi adapter would do the trick, it's a bit on the pricey side, but comparing it to my other options it seems pretty great. Could leave it out for now though, it'd just that going wired is going to be a bit tricky right now.

3) Also, compared to the suggestions in the OP the cpu cooler looks like overkill to me, you can thank my friend for that, he says it'd be real quiet,. Though it does appear to be cheaper than the market average so I'm tempted, that price is from a local store.
But on top of that my friend's adamant I need to buy an additional case fan with the fractal design r5? I sorta doubt that? The reason I'm going with the r5 in particular by the way, outside of loving the design, and not say their Define S, is because I do want to have the option to add a disc drive later on.

4) Also, motherboard doubts. Looking at Asus' Z170 options alone I'm confused already. The build recommendations in the OP list the Z170 Pro, I assume that doesn't mean the Pro Gaming? The former does look prettier... So yeah, clueless regarding what I should go with here.

5) There's that battery backup mention in the OP too. Makes sense to me, but what do I buy? I haven't delved too deeply into this but a quick search for local ones only shows stuff that costs 300 euro or more, though I could import. But that seems like a lot? Am I looking at the wrong kind?



Other than all that I'm mostly anxious about assembly, though I do really want to put it together myself. I've watched videos and all that. It looks easier than I thought it would but cable management sounds like a pain, I'm unsure what the status is on the need of manually adding thermal paste and in general I'm just not very handy. Heck, I'll probably have to buy a suitable screwdriver.

Big thanks to anyone who was willing to read through this whole thing! ^^'

Depends a lot how and what will you game.
But i suggest to get very good monitor since that part lasts longest from all pc parts and imo its most important since you sit on pc and watch that screen 100% of time, so dont get monster pc and cheap monitor.

I dont know what kind of games you play and how much but i would suggest to look at some 1440p 144hz ips screen. Its bit expencive but it will last for many years with good picture quality and butter smoothness.
And i think high hz > 4k all the way.
 
Is $350 too much for this system:

GPU: GTX 480
CPU: i5-2500K @ 4GHz
RAM: 8GB 1600
HDD: 1TB
PSU: CX600


I think so, yes. You can find sellers on ebay who are selling 2500k system bundles with ram, mobo and aftermarket cooler for about $150. That means you'd be paying about $200 for a 480 and a cheap psu. People are selling the 480 on ebay for like $30, and that psu was $70 brand new, so probably worth like $20 now?

If you are buying that system from someone, I would offer only like $150-175. You will need to replace the psu and gpu, but the 2500K you can OC and still have it be viable.
 

e90Mark

Member
Yea exactly, I assumed they were a reputable brand.

Does anyone want to weigh in on PSU choice. I'm coming from a Corsair RM series and am a bit reluctant to return even though PSU most likely didn't have anything to do with it. It will either be

EVGA Supernova 650W or Thermaltake Smart DPS G 650.

The fact that my gpu survived gives me a sliver of hope that the rest may be intact as well.

EVGA 650 G2 for sure.
 

Wag

Member
I want to give my friend a decent setup and I have a lot of spare parts lying around. I have a Q9550/GTX 295 tower but after installing Win10 on it I've found it has too many problems (no UEFI/AHCI support).

I also have an old P67 Extreme4 with a G640. Originally I thought the P67 was dead (it had bent CPU pins, so I took it to Sears Jewelry repair and he unbent the pins for free). I also had a 2600k, so I bought a H67/G640 combo on eBay for $25. Turns out, it was the 2600k that's dead and the G640 posts in the P67.

Is there a better LGA1155 cpu I can upgrade to for not a lot of money? ~$50 or so? I can't in good conscience give her the Q9550 setup. I still have to buy 8GB of DDR3 in there to install Win10 so I don't want to spend too much, especially on old hardware.

She'd like to play games on it. Not much gaming will happen on a G640/GTX 295 setup.
 

Thraktor

Member
I'm building a PC for my dad and I'm torn on the CPU. He's by no means a power user, just need the PC to be snappy for around a decade. I've got €150 left on his tight budget for a MOBO and CPU. I've been eyeing the G3258 for a while now and it seems the best option budget wise. Any alternatives?

The G3258 is a good CPU for the money (I have one myself), but keep in mind that in order to make the most out of it you'll need a Z97 motherboard and an aftermarket cooler, which add quite a bit to the overall cost. Given that we're now two generations ahead of it, and stock i3 clocks are higher than when the G3258 released, I'd actually recommend an i3 6100 and the cheapest LGA1151 motherboard you can find, if you can squeeze it into €150.
 

Joqu

Member
helpful stuff

same thing

First of all, thanks a lot for the replies. It really helps.

The only reason I went with 3200 Mhz ram here is because the price is pretty much the same as it'd be for lower speeds as far I can see. That mention of it getting unstable does bother me though. Hmm.

I'll make sure I get a good PSU. I think I've got a good one there but I'll look into it a bit more.

Still not sure on the mother board but I'll try to look into it. :S

Glad to hear the case would work, I've just been looking at pictures but I'm already growing rather attached to it. But should I get additional case fans then?

I'm fully aware the 1080 is an insane card, my only logic here is that it fit into my (admittedly high) budget. I haven't settled on resolution yet but I do intend to downsample and all that and I'd love to try high framerates out so it doesn't seem like a bad idea to me. But I obviously need a good monitor for that so yeah, considering going with a cheaper CPU for now so I can spend more on that. I wouldn't save THAT much but maybe I should go with a 1070 for now... Or would you recommend doing something else? I'm a bit worried about going used but I might be able to snag a 980ti for cheap.
 

enewtabie

Member
Decided to build a PC for my first time ever. Getting rid of all my retro stuff and building something fairly solid. Seems simple enough ,but I'm very excited to try it. I'm hoping a 970 will be sufficient for what I need ,but I really have nothing to go by. I own the current consoles.
 

th3dude

Member
Sorry if this has been asked before, but I wonder if it is worth jumping on a cheap 970 (to give me 970 SLI) now that people are dumping them for $175-$200 vs staying the same or getting a 1070 at some point. Hmm...
 

Megabat

Member
Sorry if this has been asked before, but I wonder if it is worth jumping on a cheap 970 (to give me 970 SLI) now that people are dumping them for $175-$200 vs staying the same or getting a 1070 at some point. Hmm...

It's a question worth asking. But using multiple GPUs for games is almost never a great idea. It needs both development team and driver support, and doesn't work as well as one single strong card.

And think about this: if you're considering spending $200 on a second card, and you have a card that will sell for that amount, you're looking at a ~$400 budget for your next card. That's basically enough for a 1070.
 

vector824

Member
Would someone mind giving me some suggestions on my build? Bought a Saphire 480 8gb yesterday on the cheap, and am now trying to integrate it into a relatively cheap build. These are Aussie prices, though I was hoping to spend around $700-$800 AUD, excluding the already purchased GPU.

Build: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/KKh4Cy

Here's a start:

Changed the RAM to 8gb (you wont need any more than that) @ 3000mhz, better mobo for an upgraded memory clock and CPU if you want to add a K processor in the future, a 500W PSU, 120gb SSD and 1tb HDD, a decent case, an extra fan, all for under your budget. You'll be set on this build for awhile.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.00 @ Umart)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($178.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.00 @ PLE Computers)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($82.00 @ IJK)
Case Fan: NZXT RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($13.00 @ PLE Computers)
Total: $799.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-07 03:57 AEST+1000

+ RX480 GPU @ $419 AUD
 

Megabat

Member
Decided to build a PC for my first time ever. Getting rid of all my retro stuff and building something fairly solid. Seems simple enough ,but I'm very excited to try it. I'm hoping a 970 will be sufficient for what I need ,but I really have nothing to go by. I own the current consoles.

Do you have the parts already? What resolution/frame rate are you aiming for? What is your budget? I'm sure someone on here would love to spec out a system for you.

For 1080p60, 1440p60, and 1080p120, a 970-level card should be about right. Though you probably don't want to get a 970. AMD just released a new $200-240 card that about matches it, and Nvidia shouldn't be far behind.

Something like this would get you all the benefits of a PC: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/JpCf8K

Locked quad-core Intel CPU, 16GB RAM, SSD + large mechanical drive, and a solid GPU.
 

coughlanio

Member
why are you upgrading? that's still a rather powerful CPU and your RAM is fine. 2400 above DDR4 speeds (2133) and you might not get 3200 out those new sticks. i bought 3200 sticks and had to drop to 2933.

anyway, i'd go with the i7-6700K unless you know you need the extra features a i7-6800k brings like 6-cores, more PCI lanes, higher RAM limit. also know that the i7-6800K doesn't have integrated graphics. performance wise the 6800K might have a faster multicore speed but generally in games you aren't going to see much a difference.

also do you really need 32GB of RAM? 8GB is still fine these days but 16GB is becoming more common. 32GB is insane just for a system that plays games. again if you know you need it then go for it. the ssd i see is the 950 you could save a fair bit by sticking with 850.

so you could save money by going to the i7-6700K, a z170a motherboard, 850 ssd, and getting 16GB RAM. i would use that extra money to either a) buying a higher capacity SSD or b) put towards the Titan card.

32GB is probably the minimum for me, I'm a developer and often run multiple Vagrant instances, so hitting 16GB isn't uncommon for me. I also do some video editing from time to time, and having Premiere, After Effects and Audition open often puts me up against the 16GB. That's kind of where the 6800K comes into play too.

One of the most annoying things about the 4670K is the lack of VT-d.

Thanks for the feedback though, I'll look into a 6700K build and see what the savings can get me.
 
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