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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

I feel like I'm in such a tough spot right now. I have some money and the itch to upgrade. I currently have:

980ti
I5 3570k @4.4ghz

I pretty much only use my PC for gaming. I sometimes stream. Have a Vive, 4k tv, primarily PC game on a 1440p/60hz screen.

Its kind of rare that I have the money to do a cpu/motherboard/ram upgrade. I was thinking I'd do a 7700k, but am wondering if I should go Ryzen. Then I think to myself I only game so I shouldn't go AMD. But if I only game, why do I even need an i7? Maybe get an R5 1600 then? Or a 7600k? Shit, do I even need to get a new CPU? Maybe I should just get a 1080ti. Well, isn't Volta rumored to be out soon? I'll most likely be able to get a 1080ti equivalent for half the price.

Keep waiting. :/

I'd suggest you wait for another generation of CPUs/GPUs. 980Ti -> 1080Ti is a significant upgrade, but it's also gonna cost you a fortune. CPU upgrades to either Intel or AMD would be significant too, but on the other hand in gaming you should still be relatively fine with that CPU OCd.
 

ISee

Member
Thanks ISee. I sure hope it will be a positive thing.



This is amazing, thanks a lot. Really useful.

I'm currently, in terms of PC gaming, using a laptop that plays ESIII:MW @ 20-30fps (in outdoors, populated areas) so I'm probably easy to please graphically and performance wise but I do want something that will play all the older games I've missed and have a little bit extra to spare for current gen gaming at 1080p. If I can get something that means I can upgrade in a piecemeal manner going forward that would be even better.

My current thoughts re. budget to performance is that maybe the 1060 is as high as I can go in the immediate term but it is going to depend on the cost of everything all in. I'm not currently wedded to a specific budget but equally I'm not in the position to spend /too/ much if I want to get back to gaming sometime this year.

CPU costs are a little higher than I anticipated but I need to read a lot more about this side of things as there seems to be hundreds of different CPUs broadly labelled the same so I have a lot to get my head around before settling on a budget I suspect!



It's not the games that I really have a problem with, it's more the service that surrounds it but that would be a pretty long post so probably best to leave it at that here!

Thanks for your considered reply ISee, it really is appreciated.

Look into the r5 1600 and a b350 board. Paired with a GTX1060 (6GB!) and 16GB of ram. Should be a descent 1080p build and costs shouldn't be too bad.
 

Ted

Member
Start with a similar yet more basic question - what resolution and framerate do you want. 1080/60 gaming is pretty cheap to build a PC for, once you move up to 1440p and or 144hz, there is an incremental jump in cost, further jumps to 4k likewise.

I bought a 1080/60 monitor, so that was my limit. I have a freshly built 1050ti/g4560 build that get 1080/60 in any game I throw at it. (It gets 100-200fps in OW and CSGO, but my monitor caps it obviously). I also get 50-70 in PUBG at 1080p. My PC build cost less than $500, monitor cost $72.

If I wanted 1440p/144 I'd probably have spent twice (easy) that total.

Thanks GodofWine, or perhaps better, "cheers". :)

Right now 1080/60 is all I want and it's reassuring to know that a 1050ti is working so well. I'm hoping to be able to stretch that a little and go 1060 6gb but it's all going to depend on budget so it's nice to see a card £100 cheaper doing good work.

I've been looking through my Steam wishlist and looking at min and rec specs for the games to try and figure out a baseline. It's a little harder than it should be as I have to keep looking up the GPUs/CPUs listed but I am at least learning a bit.

I've been using a lot of lists like:

https://www.futuremark.com/hardware/gpu

To try and figure out where the min/rec specs for games fall against components I may use.

I think I'd normally be annoyed there is so much information to digest but given I have to get the money together for any purchase it at least gives me something to stave off the cravings to just buy shit!

Thanks for the interesting reply GoW. Much obliged.

Look into the r5 1600 and a b350 board. Paired with a GTX1060 (6GB!) and 16GB of ram. Should be a descent 1080p build and costs shouldn't be too bad.

Thanks ISee, useful stuff, I'll have a look into these at lunchtime. I've been avoiding looking too much into AMD CPUs (and GPUs if I'm honest) to not further muddy the waters but the more I read the more I think this is my preconceptions from years and years ago that basically make me immediately go to Intel and Nvidia.

Is 16GB of system memory a must these days? I was planning on 8GB initially, is teh 16GB really for future proofing?

Have a great day all.
 

Arex

Member
It looks nice, seems quite similar to the Air 240 too but they only do it in black it seems. Kinda wanna go for a white case with white parts to match.

Really looking to make a build that just looks nice and stands out without being an eyesore.


Edit: Anyone got an MSI B350M Mortar Arctic? How is it?

I'm really eying it up to possibly put with a white Air 240 case

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B350M-MORTAR-ARCTIC.html#productSpecification-section

The white Inwin 301 seems pretty nice. The cooling doesn't seem that good though. As for black/white matx mobo, I think Biostar and Asrock has one.

http://imgur.com/gallery/cKilE
wbxEPchr.jpg
 
Thanks ISee, useful stuff, I'll have a look into these at lunchtime. I've been avoiding looking too much into AMD CPUs (and GPUs if I'm honest) to not further muddy the waters but the more I read the more I think this is my preconceptions from years and years ago that basically make me immediately go to Intel and Nvidia.

Is 16GB of system memory a must these days? I was planning on 8GB initially, is teh 16GB really for future proofing?

Have a great day all.

In terms of CPUs, you were mostly right to ignore AMD these past years. They were pretty meh, except for maybe the ~$100 price range. But now with Ryzen they are actually very, very competitive. R5 1600 is a great CPU for its money. Comes with a decent-ish cooler, priced around the i5-7600, can be OCd, has 6 cores and 12 threads (vs. 4/4 on the Intel i5 side) and might very well significantly outperform the i5 line in a year or two.
16GB isn't a must, but it really makes sense to got for it. You can still play most games without much issues with 8GB, but more and more games pop up (/will pop up soon) that require more than 8GB to work properly.
 
What is considered max safe vcore voltage for 7700k? After delidling the temps are no longer a problem. I could hit 5ghz oc with 1.4 vcore and I read from somewhere that that is the max voltage, but I dont know if its safe to use.
 

ISee

Member

Amd CPUs were not an option for the last couple of years, but ryzen is competitive again. Especially in the mid range gaming tier and production tier.

16 GB of ram isn't a must have, but more and more games started to utilise them about 2 years ago. It makes sense to go for 16GB when building a new rig.
 

wwm0nkey

Member
I have a GTX 980. Looking to sell for around $200 and then get a GTX 1080 + 1 year warranty at Microcenter. My Microcenter has a thing where you can just say your GPU is having v-sync or any random issues and they will "refurbish" it and let you pick out a card of the same price or put the money to a new one. So I was thinking of getting the 1080 now and then just do that when the next series comes out. I might even just buy one of those "refurbished" cards since they are usually $50 cheaper.

Anyone think that is a good idea or should I just wait until the new series comes out?
 
I'm considering getting a 27" 1440p G-sync monitor and a 1080 Ti GPU for playing modern games at higher framerates (e.g. Total Warhammer, The Witcher 3). Will my computer be limited by my current CPU (i7-3770K@3.50GHz) and RAM (16GB DDR3 1600MHz)? Would it be better to build a new computer from scratch?
 

bomblord1

Banned
Typical load in games will be sth. like 300W if the system is OCed. In that case a 500W would be more than enough, considering that it'd be actually just slightly above 50% usage (300W from the wall -> ~270W at 90% efficiency). The 650W PSU would actually still be slightly below optimal efficiency at 300W (270W). Also consider that the 500W PSU will be more efficient in every single case that is not full gaming load!



This is a bit simplified. PSUs typically reach their peak efficiency when at about 40-60% of utilization. They lose 1-2% points in efficiency when at 80 or 20%, but they lose way more than that if they are at less than 20%.


Looks fine to me. Try to convince your friend to pay a little more though to get a R5 1600 (also comes with a decent-ish cooler, which even gives you a little headroom to OC to ~3.6 Ghz).

Even PC partpicker is estimating a higher load than 300W non overclocked. After an overclock you'll probably be pushing closer to 400W depending on how high you go so the 650W will be more efficient and still leave room for more power hungry components down the line.

On top of that the 500W PSU still wont' be more efficient only just as in light loads. I can't see this system dropping below 130W of usage.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Sändersson;243322333 said:
What is considered max safe vcore voltage for 7700k? After delidling the temps are no longer a problem. I could hit 5ghz oc with 1.4 vcore and I read from somewhere that that is the max voltage, but I dont know if its safe to use.

not 100% sure but kabylake is just a refined skylake so maybe it's the same? i believe intel say 1.52V is the max limit for a skylake but i would definitely not go past 1.4V.

if you can keep your 7700K cool enough then 5GHz at 1.4V should be fine.

the best my 6700K can do is 4.5GHz at 1.34V. 4.6GHz would require more than 1.38V which I got to and it was unstable so gave up since i was so close to 1.4V
 
The more I look into AIO CPU water cooling, the more I think it's just not worth it unless you're doing really high overclocks. For cost and noise, they seem generally worse. For cooling, they seem slightly better, but the difference between a $130 AIO water cooler and an $80 air cooler isn't that significant, with the air cooler keeping up surprisingly well in many cases.

Basically, I might still go ahead and water cool my GPU, but as far as CPU cooling, I think I'll just go with a Noctua or perhaps a Cryorig (though, it seems for the ~$80 range of air coolers, the Noctua is a bit quieter than the comparable Cryorig).
 
not 100% sure but kabylake is just a refined skylake so maybe it's the same? i believe intel say 1.52V is the max limit for a skylake but i would definitely not go past 1.4V.

if you can keep your 7700K cool enough then 5GHz at 1.4V should be fine.

the best my 6700K can do is 4.5GHz at 1.34V. 4.6GHz would require more than 1.38V which I got to and it was unstable so gave up since i was so close to 1.4V
Ok thanks. I think I will go for 1.4 and 5ghz then. Temps never go over 85c which has always been the "fair enough" point for me. :p
 
The more I look into AIO CPU water cooling, the more I think it's just not worth it unless you're doing really high overclocks. For cost and noise, they seem generally worse. For cooling, they seem slightly better, but the difference between a $130 AIO water cooler and an $80 air cooler isn't that significant, with the air cooler keeping up surprisingly well in many cases.

Basically, I might still go ahead and water cool my GPU, but as far as CPU cooling, I think I'll just go with a Noctua or perhaps a Cryorig (though, it seems for the ~$80 range of air coolers, the Noctua is a bit quieter than the comparable Cryorig).

Concerning the aio noice I would like to point out this: my kraken for example at 100% is loud as hell but I always use a fixed curve (50%) and could even go a bit lower. At which point it is very silent and because it is always fixed you wont hear your fans ramp up and down. I definately dont think the noice is the problem with aios. They are very silent in my experience.

Also if you dont think aio for cpu is needed why would it be needed for gpu? Im having much more heat problems with cpus these days. Even with the stock curve on my gtx 1080, which you cant even hear trough the case the card never goes beyond 75c @ 2050 mhz.
 

laxu

Member
Sändersson;243331387 said:
Also if you dont think aio for cpu is needed why would it be needed for gpu? Im having much more heat problems with cpus these days. Even with the stock curve on my gtx 1080, which you cant even hear trough the case the card never goes beyond 75c @ 2050 mhz.

For me it is the opposite. GPUs are always on the brink of throttling when overclocked and their stock coolers are often either too noisy or not efficient enough. Your 1080 is probably more efficient than my 980 Ti but I'm much happier with an AIO cooler on my GPU than with the stock MSI air cooler, which was one of the quieter coolers for the 980 Tis. With the AIO cooler my computer is almost silent even at load.

I use an air cooler for the CPU. Sure it's a big lump in there but it didn't cost much and is very quiet. It's a Thermalright Macho Direct.

When Nvidia Volta comes out I'll definitely get either a watercooled model or install the AIO cooler I have now on it.
 

laxu

Member
I'm considering getting a 27" 1440p G-sync monitor and a 1080 Ti GPU for playing modern games at higher framerates (e.g. Total Warhammer, The Witcher 3). Will my computer be limited by my current CPU (i7-3770K@3.50GHz) and RAM (16GB DDR3 1600MHz)? Would it be better to build a new computer from scratch?

It will be limited but not that much at 1440p. Overclock the shit out of your 3770K, it should easily go to something around 4.2-4.4 GHz with only a bit more voltage if you have a good cooler. Use the offset voltage mode so it only ups the voltage on load and thus runs cooler and quieter.
 
Sändersson;243331387 said:
Concerning the aio noice I would like to point out this: my kraken for example at 100% is loud as hell but I always use a fixed curve (50%) and could even go a bit lower. At which point it is very silent and because it is always fixed you wont hear your fans ramp up and down. I definately dont think the noice is the problem with aios. They are very silent in my experience.

Also if you dont think aio for cpu is needed why would it be needed for gpu? Im having much more heat problems with cpus these days. Even with the stock curve on my gtx 1080, which you cant even hear trough the case the card never goes beyond 75c @ 2050 mhz.

I don't think GPU water coolers are necessary. Mostly, just fun to try a new mod for my PC, and the more I look into it the less I can justify an AIO CPU cooler, but I've seen a bit more evidence that I could keep my 1080 Ti cooler with a GPU AIO than I can keep my Ryzen 1700 cooler with a CPU AIO.

I mean, truly, I don't think anything I'm talking about is necessary for my case. I just had a lot of fun building my new PC recently and want to see if there's any last things I can do to it before shelving it for 3-4 years without any further modifications. So I looked into AIO cooling and was surprised to see that there are surprisingly comparable (and often cheaper) air coolers out there.
 
Even PC partpicker is estimating a higher load than 300W non overclocked. After an overclock you'll probably be pushing closer to 400W depending on how high you go so the 650W will be more efficient and still leave room for more power hungry components down the line.

On top of that the 500W PSU still wont' be more efficient only just as in light loads. I can't see this system dropping below 130W of usage.


Most of those internet sites tend to vastly overestimate power consumption for whatever reason. Maybe because people still mostly buy really low quality PSUs that can't deliver much of their marketed wattage via the 12V rail(s). Even at 400W (pretty unrealistic imo), the 500W will still only be like ~0.5% below its optimal efficiency (~400W from the wall -> ~360W delivered to the components, ~72% utilization).

I'm not quite sure what you mean with your last two sentences. This system will ALWAYS be at 130W or less unless it's used for gaming or encoding.

See for instance:

https://www.computerbase.de/2017-03/amd-ryzen-1800x-1700x-1700-test/6/

For the 1700:
Idle: ~44W
Single Core Load (Cinebench): 67W
Multi Core Load (Cinebench): 120W
Max CPU load (Prime95): 128W
Massively overclocked at 4.15 Ghz at 1.5V (i.e. settings you definitely don't wanna use 24/7) max load in Prime95 is 250W.
Please note: these are measurements for the system, not the CPU alone.


Imo people tend to overestimate power consumption by a lot, especially due to assuming that both CPU and GPU will run at their max. power consumption during gaming, which is just not happening in the real world. I mean sure, you can run Prime95 + FurMark to get this system to 400W easily, but that's just not a relevant scenario.
 

Croatoan

They/Them A-10 Warthog
Looking to build a microATX dedicated streaming PC for streaming PS4 @ 720p 30/60 on twitch and some light emulator usage. I have a Gigabyte 980ti that will be going in it so I need enough power.

This pc will sit next to our two PS4s in the entertainment center so I want it to be small and look like it belongs.

Budget is around $500.

Here is what I got so far.

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fsKDHN
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fsKDHN/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($188.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-B250M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Thermaltake - Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $597.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-13 11:04 EDT-0400

PC parts picker say 500w is enough to cover the machine with the 980ti. Should I go with a 500, 550, or above power supply. I could save $30 bucks if I dropped the watts.
 
Looking to build a microATX dedicated streaming PC for streaming PS4 @ 720p 30/60 on twitch and some light emulator usage. I have a Gigabyte 980ti that will be going in it so I need enough power.

This pc will sit next to our two PS4s in the entertainment center so I want it to be small and look like it belongs.

Budget is around $500.

Here is what I got so far.

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fsKDHN
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fsKDHN/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($188.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-B250M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Thermaltake - Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $597.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-13 11:04 EDT-0400

PC parts picker say 500w is enough to cover the machine with the 980ti. Should I go with a 500, 550, or above power supply. I could save $30 bucks if I dropped the watts.

On a $500 budget, I'd try to squeak out every penny. Get a 550w PSU max in this case, but be very careful to not get a crappy-brand. You can get this for $45 (after a $20 mail-in rebate). From a quick look, that PSU seems to be similar to the one you had, but I believe this one is only semi-modular instead of full and also is 550w instead of 650w.

Also, I have seen that same case on sale for $35 after mail-in rebate twice in the last 45 days. I bought it about 2 months ago at that price and generally like it, especially at a price of $35.
 

LordAlu

Member
AMD Ryzen 3 & Threadripper Update

Ryzen 3 to launch on July 27th.

  • Ryzen 3 1200 4-Core/4-Thread 3.1GHz/3.4GHz
  • Ryzen 3 1300X 4-Core/4-Thread 3.5GHz/3.7GHz
Pricing wasn't announced but should be around the Intel Core i3 ballpark.

Two Threadripper models also got announced, should be sometime early August. Both models look to beast the current Intel Core i9-7900X in CineBench whilst being cheaper.

  • Ryzen Threadripper 1920X 12-Core/24-Thread 3.5GHz/4.0GHz is $799
  • Ryzen Threadripper 1950X 16-Core/32-Thread 3.4GHz/4.0GHz is $999
 

kuYuri

Member
I have a GTX 980. Looking to sell for around $200 and then get a GTX 1080 + 1 year warranty at Microcenter. My Microcenter has a thing where you can just say your GPU is having v-sync or any random issues and they will "refurbish" it and let you pick out a card of the same price or put the money to a new one. So I was thinking of getting the 1080 now and then just do that when the next series comes out. I might even just buy one of those "refurbished" cards since they are usually $50 cheaper.

Anyone think that is a good idea or should I just wait until the new series comes out?

Why not? You're saving that money and it's going towards the next card anyway. Also, MC doesn't have one year warranties, minimum is two years.

Is there a GTX 1080 Ti available that has a blower cooler and a DVI port? I have an Ncase M1 and they recommend blower coolers

Looks like none do, but you can get a DisplayPort to DVI converter for like $10. I would recommend DP to DVI cause it's easier to convert that versus HDMI.
 

bomblord1

Banned
Most of those internet sites tend to vastly overestimate power consumption for whatever reason. Maybe because people still mostly buy really low quality PSUs that can't deliver much of their marketed wattage via the 12V rail(s). Even at 400W (pretty unrealistic imo), the 500W will still only be like ~0.5% below its optimal efficiency (~400W from the wall -> ~360W delivered to the components, ~72% utilization).

I'm not quite sure what you mean with your last two sentences. This system will ALWAYS be at 130W or less unless it's used for gaming or encoding.

See for instance:

https://www.computerbase.de/2017-03/amd-ryzen-1800x-1700x-1700-test/6/

For the 1700:
Idle: ~44W
Single Core Load (Cinebench): 67W
Multi Core Load (Cinebench): 120W
Max CPU load (Prime95): 128W
Massively overclocked at 4.15 Ghz at 1.5V (i.e. settings you definitely don't wanna use 24/7) max load in Prime95 is 250W.
Please note: these are measurements for the system, not the CPU alone.


Imo people tend to overestimate power consumption by a lot, especially due to assuming that both CPU and GPU will run at their max. power consumption during gaming, which is just not happening in the real world. I mean sure, you can run Prime95 + FurMark to get this system to 400W easily, but that's just not a relevant scenario.

Based on other benches I've found those numbers cannot be right for a total system TDP especially if said system has a GPU.

http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/amd/ryzen-7-1700/ryzen-7-1700-power-consumption.png
ryzen-7-1700-power-consumption.png


As for the rest I still see no reason not to go with a higher end PSU especially with how power hungry future GPU's like Vega are looking to possibly be.
 
I'm considering getting a 27" 1440p G-sync monitor and a 1080 Ti GPU for playing modern games at higher framerates (e.g. Total Warhammer, The Witcher 3). Will my computer be limited by my current CPU (i7-3770K@3.50GHz) and RAM (16GB DDR3 1600MHz)? Would it be better to build a new computer from scratch?

You might end up CPU bound, but you will probably be over 100 fps when it happens.

Is there a GTX 1080 Ti available that has a blower cooler and a DVI port? I have an Ncase M1 and they recommend blower coolers

Is this for a second monitor? Because if your main gaming monitor doesn't have DP or HDMI I'd probably suggest upgrading that before getting the top of the line card.

Also, be aware that the blower coolers on the 1080ti are loud, regardless of case airflow. If you want it to be quiet consider some type of hybrid option.
 

Mr Swine

Banned
So I've been away for 6 days and I had my new Ryzen PC that I've built in late April unplugged. Started it a few hours ago and it didn't find my SSD with Win 10 and that it started the DDr4 memory at 2133mhz.

Went into bios and saw that the mobo had swapped which SSD to start with. Changed it back and everything was fine until I turned of my PC and started it again an hour later and the same problem persist.

Is something wrong with my mobo? Everything has been working fine and dandy until this snall problem has arrived :/
 

Bloodember

Member
So I've been away for 6 days and I had my new Ryzen PC that I've built in late April unplugged. Started it a few hours ago and it didn't find my SSD with Win 10 and that it started the DDr4 memory at 2133mhz.

Went into bios and saw that the mobo had swapped which SSD to start with. Changed it back and everything was fine until I turned of my PC and started it again an hour later and the same problem persist.

Is something wrong with my mobo? Everything has been working fine and dandy until this snall problem has arrived :/

Sounds like the battery is dead.
 

MRORANGE

Member
Wooh finally got the parts for my PC!

Motherboard: Biostar RACING X370GTN Mini ITX Motherboard
CPU: Ryzen:1700 8 Core @ 3.7 GHz
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 at 3000 Mhz - 32 GB
GPU: MSI NVIDIA Geforce GTX 1060 6GB - Still waiting for this, using a 260x for now
Primary Storage: WD M.2 500 GB
Secondary Storage: WD 3TB 3.5"
PSU: Corsair 550 W 80+ Bronze
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S

M151wR7.jpg


Case is small but easy to work in for itx :)

5xfPnYP.jpg


Just waiting for the GPU but looks great on the desk with my 28" monitor:

VKbw7MY.jpg
 
Wooh finally got the parts for my PC!

Motherboard: Biostar RACING X370GTN Mini ITX Motherboard
CPU: Ryzen:1700 8 Core @ 3.7 GHz
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 at 3000 Mhz - 32 GB
GPU: MSI NVIDIA Geforce GTX 1060 6GB - Still waiting for this, using a 260x for now
Primary Storage: WD M.2 500 GB
Secondary Storage: WD 3TB 3.5"
PSU: Corsair 550 W 80+ Bronze
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S

M151wR7.jpg

Damn, that motherboard looks slick.
 
Is there a GTX 1080 Ti available that has a blower cooler and a DVI port? I have an Ncase M1 and they recommend blower coolers

As opposed to what? A hybrid? I looked at the case and it's a mini-ITX so not sure why that would be the recommendation given how little airflow you have in something like that. Not to mention hybrid cards are actually thinner than ones with blowers so in some ways better for smaller cases.

If the issue is space I still think that case could accommodate the rad/fan. Do some measurements and absolutely go hybrid if you can.

Sändersson;243322333 said:
What is considered max safe vcore voltage for 7700k? After delidling the temps are no longer a problem. I could hit 5ghz oc with 1.4 vcore and I read from somewhere that that is the max voltage, but I dont know if its safe to use.

Guess you'll find out!

As someone mentioned it should be fine depending on temps. What are you seeing on load and have you stress tested?
 
As opposed to what? A hybrid? I looked at the case and it's a mini-ITX so not sure why that would be the recommendation given how little airflow you have in something like that. Not to mention hybrid cards are actually thinner than ones with blowers so in some ways better for smaller cases.

If the issue is space I still think that case could accommodate the rad/fan. Do some measurements and absolutely go hybrid if you can.

There are four ways to cool a GPU that I know of:

1) Passive cooling: no fans, no water cooling, just radiating any heat. These are only seen on very low-end cards or older cards and not really something to worry about or even think of with any modern gaming card.

2) Hybrids: Basically, water-cooling.

3) Blower coolers: The card is more or less encased and a single fan pulls air from within the case and blows it along the length of the card, exhausting the majority of the (hot) air out the back of the case.

4) Open-air coolers: These are what you generally see on a GPU; one, two, or three fans simply blowing air from within the case onto the card, with the air exhausting withing the case/around the card.

The post you quoted refers to "blower" cards such as this 1080 Ti Founder's Edition. To my knowledge, all the Founder's Edition 1080 Ti cards are "blower" style fan coolers rather than "open-air" style fan coolers. In the post you quoted, the case manufacturer may recommend a blower cooler because the case is relatively small, so having the hot air from the GPU exhausting out the back would be preferable to dissipating it throughout the case, as would be what happens with an open-air cooler.
 
These questions about DVI/HDMI reminded me to ask: Can a GPU send a 4K signal through a DVI cable/port? Is there a limitation that would require using DisplayPort or something?
 
It will be limited but not that much at 1440p. Overclock the shit out of your 3770K, it should easily go to something around 4.2-4.4 GHz with only a bit more voltage if you have a good cooler. Use the offset voltage mode so it only ups the voltage on load and thus runs cooler and quieter.

You might end up CPU bound, but you will probably be over 100 fps when it happens.
That's what I thought, but thanks for backing my hunch. I already have a large CPU fan (Hyper 212 EVO) installed and it shouldn't be difficult to increase the clock speed a few notches.
 
Hi PC Gaf my brother got me this motherboard Asus B85M-G R2.0 Micro ATX LGA1150
i was wondering can i put a gtx 1070 or a gtx 1080

my specs are
cpu: i5 4670k 3.4Ghz i put turbo boost on 3.8Ghz
cpu cooler: H60
ram: DDR3 8GB
psu: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B1, 80+ BRONZE 750W

i'm going to upgrade the cpu later on :)
 
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