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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

kmfdmpig

Member
Hello Gaf, update of my current parts. I decided to not get the gtx 1080ti and go for a cheaper one but I cannot decide on the GPU, help? Or should I just pull the trigger on the 1080ti?

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Jdorantesp/saved/ZPWxrH

Such a similar build to what I made. Same basic case, same CPU, same SSD, same cooler, and almost the same PSU.

Personally I went with the 1080ti as it gives me a bit more longevity, but it really depends on how you treat a GPU. If you're likely to swap it out in a year or two then the extra money would be wasted if you don't need it now. If you want to keep the same GPU for several years then consider what resolution you'll need and how many years you want it to remain viable.

The mining craze muddies the waters a bit as it has inflated pricing in the 1060-1070 range, which would be a good option if you're looking at 1080p gaming or plan to replace next year or in 2019.
 
You can put either of those cards on that mobo. The one limiting factor would be length of the gpu relative to the case. One other thing is that is one of the best cpus available for that socket so you are probably not going to upgrade the cpu without doing a rebuild.

thanks so much. yeah i heard a lot of good things about the cpu i have :) guess i'm going to order the gtx 1070 :D i got a huge case so thats good for me.
 

Zeusy

Member
What's your budget and what resolution/refresh rate will you be playing at?
Probably 1440,144

Such a similar build to what I made. Same basic case, same CPU, same SSD, same cooler, and almost the same PSU.

Personally I went with the 1080ti as it gives me a bit more longevity, but it really depends on how you treat a GPU. If you're likely to swap it out in a year or two then the extra money would be wasted if you don't need it now. If you want to keep the same GPU for several years then consider what resolution you'll need and how many years you want it to remain viable.

The mining craze muddies the waters a bit as it has inflated pricing in the 1060-1070 range, which would be a good option if you're looking at 1080p gaming or plan to replace next year or in 2019.

Yes the mining craze is not helping whatsoever. I'm kind of thinking I should just get a 1080ti
 

FHIZ

Member
Okay, so: high pressure fans are good for mounting against radiators and air flow fans better for unrestricted intakes/exhaust in the case?
 

Erheller

Member
So I just installed a new drive and I was poking around in Disk Management.

qtvjlf.png

There's some unallocated space in my boot drive (an SSD). Is it safe to extend the C drive into that unallocated space?

It's a Samsung 850 EVO and I've used the Samsung Magician program to "optimize it", whatever that means.
 

mulac

Member
I am getting the urge to rebuild my HTPC - thinking ITX build this time.

Anyone know when the new Phanteks Shift models are released? They looked perfect for my setup.
 
Finally pulled the trigger on upgrading and renewing my old af i5 2320 PC.

Got a R5 1600, ASUS Prime B350M-A, Corsair Vengeance 3000mhz RAM (8Gb) and a Thermaltake Core V21 all for £400

It's getting paired with my current GTX 1050Ti, old HDD and PSU, but I'll be looking into an SSD next and maaaaybe a better GPU in the future.
 
Basically done, just a converter cable needed for one of my monitors as they're both quite old without HDMI. Hopefully the PSU isn't too loud, would prefer not having to replace that. Build starting Monday.

CPU: Intel - Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z170X-UD5 TH ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB GAMING X 4G Video Card
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Titanium) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro Full 32/64-bit
 
So I just installed a new drive and I was poking around in Disk Management.



There's some unallocated space in my boot drive (an SSD). Is it safe to extend the C drive into that unallocated space?

It's a Samsung 850 EVO and I've used the Samsung Magician program to "optimize it", whatever that means.

Yeah it's safe.

Samsung magician has some handy tools but don't think that optimize shit actually does anything worthwhile.

Finally pulled the trigger on upgrading and renewing my old af i5 2320 PC.

Got a R5 1600, ASUS Prime B350M-A, Corsair Vengeance 3000mhz RAM (8Gb) and a Thermaltake Core V21 all for £400

It's getting paired with my current GTX 1050Ti, old HDD and PSU, but I'll be looking into an SSD next and maaaaybe a better GPU in the future.

Nice. Have you started building yet? I just got a V21 for a second build (server) reusing parts from the PC I just replaced. So far I've only got the PSU and mobo in but you can remove every single panel on this thing - sides, top and bottom - so it has been easy to work in. Looked at a bunch of mATX cases and reviews and everyone gushed about this thing; I think we both made good decisions.
 
So out of sheer luck I was the recipient of a 1080 Ti thanks to the fine folks over at Nvidia and was wondering what's the best CPU to pair with it?
I'm leaning towards waiting till coffee lake atm or are current X299 builds worth looking into?
 

Invis

Member
What's the best GPU that can be purchased right now at a hard $200 budget? Used or new. Need to finish my buddy's build and he's missing GPU.

Thinking GTX 970.
 
So out of sheer luck I was the recipient of a 1080 Ti thanks to the fine folks over at Nvidia and was wondering what's the best CPU to pair with it?
I'm leaning towards waiting till coffee lake atm or are current X299 builds worth looking into?

Congrats on the 1080 Ti! X299 is a waste of time right now. Go 7700k or wait for Coffee Lake.
 
Just a question- when overclocking and trying to get a good ghz and voltage ratio, when you get the BSOD is it harmful to the pc at all?

It is possible to corrupt your os, so you should probably turn off updates or finish updating everything before you start. Might want to create a backup and restore point as well.
 
Yeah it's safe.

Samsung magician has some handy tools but don't think that optimize shit actually does anything worthwhile.



Nice. Have you started building yet? I just got a V21 for a second build (server) reusing parts from the PC I just replaced. So far I've only got the PSU and mobo in but you can remove every single panel on this thing - sides, top and bottom - so it has been easy to work in. Looked at a bunch of mATX cases and reviews and everyone gushed about this thing; I think we both made good decisions.

Sadly Amazon doesn't deliver that fast. I should have it by Wednesday though.
 

ISee

Member
What's the best GPU that can be purchased right now at a hard $200 budget? Used or new. Need to finish my buddy's build and he's missing GPU.

Thinking GTX 970.

The 970 is significantly more powerful than a 1050Ti, so yes it makes sense going for a 970 over a $160-$180 1050Ti. You could of course (also) search for something more powerful on the used market...
 

Tonedeff

Member
Looking to get a new wireless mouse to play OW and came across the Logitech G602 on Amazon for like $40. Is this a good purchase? Doing some digging, it seems like a legit mouse, but I thought I'd ask y'all before pulling the trigger
 
So I just installed a new drive and I was poking around in Disk Management.



There's some unallocated space in my boot drive (an SSD). Is it safe to extend the C drive into that unallocated space?

It's a Samsung 850 EVO and I've used the Samsung Magician program to "optimize it", whatever that means.

Sounds an awful lot like 10% overprovisioning in Samsung Magician. Check Samsung Magician to see if it's enabled.

Edit: Just checked mine (also 850 Evo) and using 10% over provisioning (the default in Samsungs Magician) gives me exactly those 46.58GB of unallocated space in disk management.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Received every pieces for my mini ITX ryzen build EXCEPT the goddamn Cryorig C7 bracket for AM4, they shipped but not here.

Is it even possible (and without problem) to boot the PC without the heatsink? If no gaming/benchmark, or really really not recommended?


Edit : i guess not from a quick look. The wait is atrocious :(

don't ryzens come with stock heatsinks? or are they like intel in that they expect you to buy an aftermarket one if you buy a certain model like a 1700X/1800X?
 
1050ti in an i7 build?

You'd be right, except it isn't primarily built for gaming. It's a work PC for audio, I'm happy to play the odd PC game at 30-60fps on it. And my monitors are both 1920x1200 max anyway. The priority here was decent power and silent/quiet PC. The gaming x variants on the Nvidia line are quietest, minus fanless gpu's, and I don't need a 1080ti or a 1060 to run a DAW with plugins. I'm rocking a 9600gt atm and my programs work, but wanted a more modern GPU that will run my software no issues while being quiet about it. The silent mode on the MSI will be useful to me. My PSU has enough juice if I want to upgrade the GPU in a year or two anyway.
 
Looking for a bit of advice here and google isn't giving me exactly what I want to know.

I'm going to need to build my niece a PC later in the year for the start of her GCSE's.

She's doing art, media and photography, so we'll need it for image and movie editing, and both she and my mother want to use it for some light gaming. Ideally a small form factor if possible.

I'd like to go full AMD with Ryzen and a 400/500 series GPU ideally, and would like to stick to a £500-£600 budget.

Any advice or recommendations? Should I favour CPU over GPU, or the other way around? How much RAM ideally? Would I be significantly better off going Intel and/or Nvidia?

Edit: oh, and I won't need it until September at the earliest, so is there anything on the horizon I should be looking into?
 
Quick question :
If a case has a feature where the PSU is hidden, does it mean I don't need to buy a modular PSU ? Can you squeeze the unused wires somewhere in that space so it is not visible ?

The case in question is this

https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16811854053

Or modular is always better for cable management ? If I am going to build a PC with just 1 sad, 1hdd, 1 gpu, and motherboard, I guess modular is more clean right ?
 
Looking for a bit of advice here and google isn't giving me exactly what I want to know.

I'm going to need to build my niece a PC later in the year for the start of her GCSE's.

She's doing art, media and photography, so we'll need it for image and movie editing, and both she and my mother want to use it for some light gaming. Ideally a small form factor if possible.

I'd like to go full AMD with Ryzen and a 400/500 series GPU ideally, and would like to stick to a £500-£600 budget.

Any advice or recommendations? Should I favour CPU over GPU, or the other way around? How much RAM ideally? Would I be significantly better off going Intel and/or Nvidia?

Edit: oh, and I won't need it until September at the earliest, so is there anything on the horizon I should be looking into?

Ryzen 3 will be the thing to look out for, and those are expected by the end of this month. Currently the cheapest Ryzen 5 CPU hovers around £150, so if Ryzen 3 is a good deal cheaper while still being competitive, then you'll be able to get your niece something decent while still being affordable. Otherwise, get a lower end R5. Ryzen's cores vs cost will be a massive boon to someone with your niece's use cases.

RAM wise, you'll want to try and procure at least 16 GB. Yes, RAM is expensive right now, but I think getting a good amount will be essential for art and rendering purposes.

On the GPU front, unless the effects of the cryptocurrency boom have significantly waned by September, I recommend keeping your options open. An RX 560 or 1050 Ti (even just 1050) would be good minimums to look at, since they'd achieve good FPS on medium and high settings for intensive games, while handily dealing with anything more light like league of legends (dunno what games they play so just using a common example).

Would recommend looking at mATX builds, though Ryzen is now getting ITX boards that could allow you to get the build as small as possible. mATX is a better balance for thermals though.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Quick question :
If a case has a feature where the PSU is hidden, does it mean I don't need to buy a modular PSU ? Can you squeeze the unused wires somewhere in that space so it is not visible ?

The case in question is this

https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16811854053

Or modular is always better for cable management ? If I am going to build a PC with just 1 sad, 1hdd, 1 gpu, and motherboard, I guess modular is more clean right ?

if it has a PSU shroud it just means it hides it. you can still get whatever PSU you want of course. if you buy a non modular PSU then the shroud will hide all the cables you don't use which is usually the issue people have with them.

hybrid/full modular is better for cable management because you're only using what you need. the only cables you are gonna need is 1x SATA, 1 or 2x PCIE and the 2 ATX cables. depending on what GPU you have you will need 1 or 2 PCIE cables. SATA cables can usually power 3 drives each. the only cables i have with my fully modular PSU are both ATX, 2x GPU, 1x SATA.

a hybrid PSU usually has both ATX cables attached because of course every PC needs power to the CPU/motherboard. you then add whatever cables you need such as SATA/PCIE. a fully modular PSU is the same except that both ATX cables are modular too.
 
if it has a PSU shroud it just means it hides it. you can still get whatever PSU you want of course. if you buy a non modular PSU then the shroud will hide all the cables you don't use which is usually the issue people have with them.

hybrid/full modular is better for cable management because you're only using what you need. the only cables you are gonna need is 1x SATA, 1 or 2x PCIE and the 2 ATX cables. depending on what GPU you have you will need 1 or 2 PCIE cables. SATA cables can usually power 3 drives each. the only cables i have with my fully modular PSU are both ATX, 2x GPU, 1x SATA.

a hybrid PSU usually has both ATX cables attached because of course every PC needs power to the CPU/motherboard. you then add whatever cables you need such as SATA/PCIE. a fully modular PSU is the same except that both ATX cables are modular too.

Só with that case I don't necessarily need a modular PSU since I can tuck the unused cables inside the space ? This is will be my first build, so I have no experience.
 
Ryzen 3 will be the thing to look out for, and those are expected by the end of this month. Currently the cheapest Ryzen 5 CPU hovers around £150, so if Ryzen 3 is a good deal cheaper while still being competitive, then you'll be able to get your niece something decent while still being affordable. Otherwise, get a lower end R5. Ryzen's cores vs cost will be a massive boon to someone with your niece's use cases.

RAM wise, you'll want to try and procure at least 16 GB. Yes, RAM is expensive right now, but I think getting a good amount will be essential for art and rendering purposes.

On the GPU front, unless the effects of the cryptocurrency boom have significantly waned by September, I recommend keeping your options open. An RX 560 or 1050 Ti (even just 1050) would be good minimums to look at, since they'd achieve good FPS on medium and high settings for intensive games, while handily dealing with anything more light like league of legends (dunno what games they play so just using a common example).

Would recommend looking at mATX builds, though Ryzen is now getting ITX boards that could allow you to get the build as small as possible. mATX is a better balance for thermals though.

Thanks! Will definitely look into Ryzen 3 and make sure I don't skimp on RAM.

How does the 550 stack up? I see it also has a 4GB version, and is a bit cheaper still than the 1050/ti. She's mostly into puzzle games, Minecraft and adventure titles, my mother likes much the same as well as some RPG's (Dragon Age Origins and CRPG's a few years back), so nothing particularly taxing.
 
Thanks! Will definitely look into Ryzen 3 and make sure I don't skimp on RAM.

How does the 550 stack up? I see it also has a 4GB version, and is a bit cheaper still than the 1050/ti. She's mostly into puzzle games, Minecraft and adventure titles, my mother likes much the same as well as some RPG's (Dragon Age Origins and CRPG's a few years back), so nothing particularly taxing.

Hm... had to look around for benchmarks. General conclusion seems to be that the RX 550 is plenty for many e-sports titles, and on major games will benefit from the transition towards DX12 and Vulcan, but for DX11 games it will lag behind a used GTX 750 Ti, for example. On the other hand it probably works better with a Ryzen CPU, so...

Again, keep your options open, see how the market goes.
 

Crash331

Member
Hey everyone.


I've stepped away from PC gaming for about 5 years and it's time to update my PC. I am planning on using a lot of old parts from my old PC (Case, 750w PSU, SSD) because they were fairly good quality plus I've upgraded my GPU a while back to an Nvidia 970 that I will keep. I am thinking of getting these parts for an upgrade and I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything or making any mistakes I will notice later when it's too late. Here is what's in my cart:

ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E GAMING LGA 1151 ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core i7-7700K Kaby Lake 4.2 GHz LGA 1151 Boxed Processor
EVGA 16GB 2 x 8GB DDR4-3000 (PC4-24000) CL15 Desktop Memory Kit


I will mainly use this for gaming on medium to high settings and I plan on getting the oculus rift to use with it. What do you think? See anything wrong with it?

Also, do coolers based on LGA 1156 work with LGA 1151? I have an Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 that I plan to reuse. I don't really plan on OC'ing (If I did, it would be minimally and not trying to push the limits).
 

Nazo

Member
OK, now this might be an incredibly stupid question but since I'm building my first PC would you guys recommend getting warranties on all the parts I buy or just forego it entirely?
 
OK, now this might be an incredibly stupid question but since I'm building my first PC would you guys recommend getting warranties on all the parts I buy or just forego it entirely?

I think all components come with 1 year warranty anyways. If you are asking if you should buy extended warranty I would say no, most components that fail will fail in the first few weeks/months of use
 

Nazo

Member
I think all components come with 1 year warranty anyways. If you are asking if you should buy extended warranty I would say no, most components that fail will fail in the first few weeks/months of use

Hmm, good to know. That'll save me some money in the long run. Thanks!
 
OK, now this might be an incredibly stupid question but since I'm building my first PC would you guys recommend getting warranties on all the parts I buy or just forego it entirely?

If you buy your stuff new, it should all come with at least some kind of warranty. I would mostly stress the importance of this on power supply, motherboard, and CPU in that order. Power Supply because that can potentially kill your whole system, motherboard because that enables everything else to run, and CPU because that handles that stuff, and a bent pin or two can completely screw up everything. But even then, this stuff can be solid if you buy from trusted sources and just get well built stuff.

What sort of level of performance are looking for, versus what kind of budget?
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Any way to check if my gigabit switch is dead? First noticed my Hue Bridge wasn’t contactable (is weird inky), then tested my Xbox and it isn’t getting a connection either (was ok a few days ago). Tried hooking the long Ethernet cable from switch to router up to my laptop and I could get online so it seems like the switch might be kaput. But there are some flashing lights on it.

Any other steps I can take? I’ve tried changing which ports things are plugged into but still nothing.
 

hitme

Member
My 560 Ti from my 2011 build (2500k) just kicked the curbed and it's time to build.

It'll mostly be an editing build with the ability to play games in High/Medium settings. What I'm thinking right now is... ($1500 budget)

1060-1070 (2k now. 4k and VR in the future)
480 SSD NVME
16GB DDR4 RAM
Mostly RGB (to match my G810 keyboard, Deathadder mouse, and hue bulbs)
Water cooler is optional.
 
The wait for my parts is killing me. Kinda hyped myself up to much for this build since it'll be the first time I built my own and first upgrade in years. Should get my parts between Wednesday-Saturday, but now I'm eying up a 60Gb SSD for a boot drive and some RGB cases fans to go along with the Core V21.
 
The wait for my parts is killing me. Kinda hyped myself up to much for this build since it'll be the first time I built my own and first upgrade in years. Should get my parts between Wednesday-Saturday, but now I'm eying up a 60Gb SSD for a boot drive and some RGB cases fans to go along with the Core V21.

Yeah, waiting can be hard. What are the specs of your build? I definitely wouldn't buy a 60GB SSD... too small. They're pretty cheap now. Unless you're running only Linux on it and can get it for almost nothing.
 
Yeah, waiting can be hard. What are the specs of your build? I definitely wouldn't buy a 60GB SSD... too small. They're pretty cheap now. Unless you're running only Linux on it and can get it for almost nothing.

R5 1600, 8Gb RAM and a GTX 1050Ti. I'm planning to expand to 16Gb RAM eventually and upgrade the GPU when I move to a higher resolution monitor.
The SSD would just be for Win10. Thought that only required 20Gb?
 

Sorral

Member
EVGA Supernova G3 750W or Corsair RM750i? Or anything better in this range? I would love some input on this.

I'll not use SLI or anything weird until I upgrade to an R7 1700 and a mid to high-end GPU later. It will just replace a PSU that's unreliable in the heat.
 

Nazo

Member
If you buy your stuff new, it should all come with at least some kind of warranty. I would mostly stress the importance of this on power supply, motherboard, and CPU in that order. Power Supply because that can potentially kill your whole system, motherboard because that enables everything else to run, and CPU because that handles that stuff, and a bent pin or two can completely screw up everything. But even then, this stuff can be solid if you buy from trusted sources and just get well built stuff.

What sort of level of performance are looking for, versus what kind of budget?

This is my build, I had people in this thread help me with this list awhile ago.

Edit: I need to actually post the link lol

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hKWvxY
 

Crono27

Member
Friend of mine is getting a new pc. Gtx 1080 i7 is basic of what i got from him. His budget it 300-400 and looking for 28ish inch monitor. What do yall recommend.
 

Ploid 3.0

Member
Friend of mine is getting a new pc. Gtx 1080 i7 is basic of what i got from him. His budget it 300-400 and looking for 28ish inch monitor. What do yall recommend.

GTX 1080, and i7? 400 won't cover that unless it's bought from a family member. You can get the i7 ... oh and a monitor is needed in that budget too? Heh, suggest a i5, borrow a monitor, and a older gpu on ebay or something, but I don't know if that still would do it. That is as budget as budget builds get. GTX 1080s cost around $450 on incredible deals I think. Could try for the 900 series cards.

Maybe keep searching places like https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/, and https://pcpartpicker.com for incredible deals, as the budget increases over the weeks/months.
 

Crono27

Member
GTX 1080, and i7? 400 won't cover that unless it's bought from a family member. You can get the i7 ... oh and a monitor is needed in that budget too? Heh, suggest a i5, borrow a monitor, and a older gpu on ebay or something, but I don't know if that still would do it. That is as budget as budget builds get. GTX 1080s cost around $450 on incredible deals I think. Could try for the 900 series cards.

Maybe keep searching places like https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/, and https://pcpartpicker.com for incredible deals, as the budget increases over the weeks/months.

Sorry maybe i miss typed that. He's looking for just monitor.
 
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