It probably would have been better to upgrade the cooler (that cooler is like 7 years old and not really suited for such a hot chip) rather than spend money on case fans, etc... It sounds like your temps now are OK, however, as they probably won't get that high in regular use.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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It probably would have been better to upgrade the cooler (that cooler is like 7 years old and not really suited for such a hot chip) rather than spend money on case fans, etc... It sounds like your temps now are OK, however, as they probably won't get that high in regular use.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Dude you can't really complain when you're using a 35 dollar cooler.
And anyway not sure what temps you're expecting but mid to high 70's with Prime95 on air is not an issue.
RumblingRosco
Member
Yeah, if you're having any doubts, take some pictures of cables etc and post here for a second set of eyes.
The 7700k is a pretty hot chip. You should return your $35 ancient cooler and grab a newer model for around the same price.
Running stock 6600k. Worth changing motherboards to Overclock? Not really needing a performance boost in anything. Just mildly curious in tinkering with it.
Is there any way, or device, yet to sync all your RGB (Case, Fans, MB, keyboard, mouse, etc.) together yet? I really want to grab the corsair rgb fans, but I know CUE doesn't support them. And not really interested in dropping $80 on fans if i can't sync everything together.
Is there any way, or device, yet to sync all your RGB (Case, Fans, MB, keyboard, mouse, etc.) together yet? I really want to grab the corsair rgb fans, but I know CUE doesn't support them. And not really interested in dropping $80 on fans if i can't sync everything together.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
I don't get it. You've got a K but a chipset that can't overclock? Anyway the answer is no.
ASUS Aura is a unified RGB system for various parts including motherboard, fans, LED kits, keyboard and not 100% on mouse but probably. Obviously means you have to have specific parts which all support it.
The Corsair Lighting Node Pro will let you sync Corsair fans, some light strips, Corsair AIO coolers, mice, etc..., but won't also sync with your motherboard.
Everdred
Member
I believe that fan model is only a year old and the reason I got it was that it benchmarked better than the 212 Evo everyone was recommending me.
I also can't return it because my 980ti died when I built this machine and I wasn't using it much for 3 weeks while I waited for 3 RMAs from EVGA before they got me one that works. I've been on this build for about 70 days.
Anyway, I'm pretty happy with where I did manage to get it. I didn't buy any new fans they were from an old case. I was just openly talking about how much I've struggled with getting it optimized. It had always been so easy on previous builds but like others have said, it's just a really hot chip.
Looking at buying a new computer since the one I currently use and bought approx. 3 years ago is beginning to die.
After updating Microsoft Windows, I now keep getting a driver failure. Is there any program that I can use to determine what's wrong with my computer?
Few minutes ago it kept restarting by itself until I disconnected it from the power...
Cheers.
After updating Microsoft Windows, I now keep getting a driver failure. Is there any program that I can use to determine what's wrong with my computer?
Few minutes ago it kept restarting by itself until I disconnected it from the power...
Cheers.
RumblingRosco
Member
1) Double-check everything is fully plugged in. Try to boot.
2) Take out all but one RAM stick. Try to boot. Move that RAM into different slots, try to boot.
The ram initialization could have failed, and usually, the MB would reboot. Try clearing the cmos.
Everything seems to be plugged in. 4x4 CPU 4 pin inside PSU to 8 pin CPU slot on mobo.
24 pin connector check.
Pcie check.
Tried one stick of ram in all slots. Still no display
Edit idk what I did but it booted and windows is getting ready xD
Gonna try it with 2 sticks of ram now
So I got this ram
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171GQR0C/?tag=neogaf0e-20
for the Asus Z270e motherboard. I'm not seeing the part number on the supported ram list here .
Kind of worried, should I return it to amazon and get something more current?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171GQR0C/?tag=neogaf0e-20
for the Asus Z270e motherboard. I'm not seeing the part number on the supported ram list here .
Kind of worried, should I return it to amazon and get something more current?
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
I'm sure it'll work but, guys/girls, please, stop buying 32GBs of RAM unless you really, really need it. If you're asking, "Do
I need it?" then that means you do NOT need it.
Bloodember
Member
Right here will work. What's the problem?
Thanks mate.
A few days ago Windows 10 updated itself. Since then, when I play Rainbow Six Siege (haven't tried any other games that are strenuous), I get different types of error codes under the blue screen of death.
It'll either be, ''IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL'', ''DRIVER_CORRUPTED_EXPOOL'', or ''Kernel Security Check Failure''.
When this occurs, it says it'll restart but it doesn't so I manually restart it. From here it just continuously restarts.. Turns off, turns on, turns off, turns on. I tried disconnecting it from the power, plugged it back in and hit the power button then restarts continuously again.
After 15 minutes of leaving the computer alone, it fixes itself. Using the web, videos, etc for hours is fine, but seems to be when I play a strenuous game? Or something with my hardware. Been considering getting a new computer so maybe it's the right time hah.
Again, thanks for the help.
I have a question about win 10. I'm running win 7 at the moment, but I did "reserve" my win 10 upgrade during the upgrade debacle. I'd much rather continue using win 7 on my new build but it looks like cpu support is shaky and I'd need special drivers and whatnot to make it work, so I'm reluctantly going with win 10. Now I'm a bit confused as to how I make that happen with my current license key. Will my win 7 key work out of the box since I reserved my upgrade or do I have to somehow transform it into a win 10 key first?
man, thinking about it I'd much rather use linux than w10 but I just don't want to throw away 75% of my steam collection...
turning off HT though.. that's severe. HT can easily give you another 50% per core, turning it off isn't a solution anymore than tuning off one of your cores imo.
man, thinking about it I'd much rather use linux than w10 but I just don't want to throw away 75% of my steam collection...
turning off HT though.. that's severe. HT can easily give you another 50% per core, turning it off isn't a solution anymore than tuning off one of your cores imo.
I'll look into my HDD then. Is there a program that pinpoints where the error is coming from?
Thanks man.
Bloodember
Member
That's seems to be a driver error, that is unsigned. For some reason after Windows updated, it freaks out about it now. Here's some instructions on how to remedy it. Click this link
It could also be a RAM issue or an HDD problem (do a health check on your HDD, most manufactures have apps). Also how much RAM do you have?
Anyone had any experience of replacing the fans on a Corsair H100i V2 with Noctua NF fans? Is this something that is OK to do and worth the cost?
I find the fans to be very noisy and the rest of my system uses 140mm Noctua NF Industrial PPC fans (with white anti-vibration pads to match the colours of my PC build).
The Noctua fans are not too noisy so I was thinking about getting the 120mm versions for the CPU cooler but the static pressure rating is lower than the Corsair SP120L fans that came with the AIO cooler (4.65 mm H₂O vs 3.94 mm H₂O).
My PC doesn't get very hot (never really reaches 50C most of the time) but I can hear those CPU fans.
For extra info I have a Intel Core i7 6700K overclocked to 4.6GHz.
I find the fans to be very noisy and the rest of my system uses 140mm Noctua NF Industrial PPC fans (with white anti-vibration pads to match the colours of my PC build).
The Noctua fans are not too noisy so I was thinking about getting the 120mm versions for the CPU cooler but the static pressure rating is lower than the Corsair SP120L fans that came with the AIO cooler (4.65 mm H₂O vs 3.94 mm H₂O).
My PC doesn't get very hot (never really reaches 50C most of the time) but I can hear those CPU fans.
For extra info I have a Intel Core i7 6700K overclocked to 4.6GHz.
Wolf Akela
Member
GAF, I upgraded from a 1080p 60Hz to 1440p 144Hz monitor and it was a big mistake. I am no longer satisfied with my RX480. I feel sad whenever I don't see that framerate hitting the refresh rate cap and it's making me want to go for a 1080.
I feel sad whenever I don't see that framerate hitting the refresh rate cap and it's making me want to go for a 1080.GAF, I upgraded from a 1080p 60Hz to 1440p 144Hz monitor and it was a big mistake. I am no longer satisfied with my RX480.
I've got 16GB's of ram.
I went into Windows, and did ''Error Checking'' on my HDD which came up with nothing. Do I need a more in-depth health check app on my HDD?
Appreciate the help.
Edit: Downloaded Western Digital's health check app, and after using their quick test, it said it was good. I'll give their extended test a go tomorrow when I have more time, however its looking like it may be the 16GB Samsung RAM. :/
Edit 2: To add, Rainbow Six Siege plays with nil issues/lag for 20 minutes before it crashes.
ISee
Member
GAF, I upgraded from a 1080p 60Hz to 1440p 144Hz monitor and it was a big mistake. I am no longer satisfied with my RX480.
1440p@144fps is obviously not what the RX 480 was meant to achieve and even a GTX 1080 will have trouble to push for consistent 144fps at this resolution. That's why most people go for gysnc/freesync at high frame-rates. Personally I'd wait for nvidia volta before buying something new though. Also please keep in mind, you also need a very fast CPU for that kind of framerates.
Another option would be to cap your framerate to 72fps for proper frame pacing (till volta arrives).
So after building my PC two years ago with a fan layout that erred on the side of negative pressure, I decided to play around with some of my fan's positions to achieve positive pressure to cut down on dust (though with my Define R5's filters, dust hasn't been a huge problem).
After playing around with every possible combination that achieved positive pressure (even trying one less fan than I had before), I've found that my temps across the board have been 3-4° warmer when idling. In one configuration my GPU managed to idle at the same temp as my original layout, but at the expensive of my CPU and motherboard idling a couple degrees warmer than other positive configurations, so I didn't bother with that configuration for very long.
Is it normal to run a little warmer when going for positive pressure?
After playing around with every possible combination that achieved positive pressure (even trying one less fan than I had before), I've found that my temps across the board have been 3-4° warmer when idling. In one configuration my GPU managed to idle at the same temp as my original layout, but at the expensive of my CPU and motherboard idling a couple degrees warmer than other positive configurations, so I didn't bother with that configuration for very long.
Is it normal to run a little warmer when going for positive pressure?
ISee
Member
Even at mostly positive pressure air needs to come into your case from somewhere. If that incoming air hits your GPU first and is than further pushed to your MB and your CPU your stuff will be warmer because of it. Personally I've found that pulling fresh air through the front and the side/bottom and to push it out through the rear give me the best results.
hey guys!
As you might remember (no? I guessed so), I have no idea how hardware actually works. So seeing this while trying for my first time a stress test ist weird:
My problem is: Why are Freq4 and Freq5 in Core Temp only 1507 Mhz, and not the full 3.xx ghz? Dont all physical cores have the same frequency?
As you might remember (no? I guessed so), I have no idea how hardware actually works. So seeing this while trying for my first time a stress test ist weird:
It's running for ~ 10 minutes now, so the picture is still uptodate (but for the CPU temperature being 61°C, which seems pretty good to me? I dunno how long I should run the test)
My problem is: Why are Freq4 and Freq5 in Core Temp only 1507 Mhz, and not the full 3.xx ghz? Dont all physical cores have the same frequency?
RumblingRosco
Member
61C at maximum load is good. I wouldn't worry about that whatsoever.
I think Ryzen only allows four cores to boost to maximum (3.4 GHz for the 1600) by default. If you manually overclock, I believe you can make all the cores run at the max speed, however.
Frankfurter
Member
If WDs extended test doesn't find an error, try testing the RAM with Memtest86+ next. Let it run for a couple of hours.
Legend, I'll give it a go tomorrow. Thanks man!
Phatosaurus
Member
Amazon finally delivered my SSD. All set now to get my first build up and running.
Still got another case fan and a 1Tb SSHD on the way to put it afterwards, but for now I think it'll be fine with the stock 200mm front fan and the 240Gb SDD storage.
I asked last night but didn't get a reply. I've seen a EVGA GTX 1080 on sale for £440 and I'm curious if that's actually a good deal or not in the current GPU climate?
Still got another case fan and a 1Tb SSHD on the way to put it afterwards, but for now I think it'll be fine with the stock 200mm front fan and the 240Gb SDD storage.
I asked last night but didn't get a reply. I've seen a EVGA GTX 1080 on sale for £440 and I'm curious if that's actually a good deal or not in the current GPU climate?
RumblingRosco
Member
I don't know about the European GPU market, but in general, 1080 prices haven't been affected too much by the current climate. You should be able to get a 1080 for MSRP or even a little lower.
I have a zowie ec1-a and it's the best mouse I ever had. The only thing I dislike - no actually hate about it is the stupid pink led that you can't turn off.
That's pretty much both the setup I had before and the slightly-warmer setup I'm using right now. Air is getting pulled in the front and bottom by three separate 140mm's, and being exhausted by a single 140mm in the back. Before, I had it exhausting from the back and the top, but that was causing some pretty significant negative pressure, despite having more intake than exhaust.
My current part list..
Probably can ignore the pricing (I'm in SEA region), but any potential problem? I have a 3TB 3.5" HDD that I'll probably reuse also.
Anyone here has the Zotac 1070 Amp? Do they have vrm problem like the 1080ti amp extreme? I wanted the msi 1070 gaming 8g, but can't find it anywhere lol
Also, is it safe to put sticker on top of graphic card's backplate? Just in case I don't like the yellow stripes haha
Probably can ignore the pricing (I'm in SEA region), but any potential problem? I have a 3TB 3.5" HDD that I'll probably reuse also.
Anyone here has the Zotac 1070 Amp? Do they have vrm problem like the 1080ti amp extreme? I wanted the msi 1070 gaming 8g, but can't find it anywhere lol
Also, is it safe to put sticker on top of graphic card's backplate? Just in case I don't like the yellow stripes haha
Booker.DeWitt
Member
I need help guys
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-g1...ed/5614800.p?skuId=5614800&productCategoryId=
$746 bucks for a open box like new, with 1 year warranty fromBB.
It seems to be super worth it considering 1060 6gb, SSD 500gb, 16gb ram.
what do you guys say?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-g1...ed/5614800.p?skuId=5614800&productCategoryId=
$746 bucks for a open box like new, with 1 year warranty fromBB.
It seems to be super worth it considering 1060 6gb, SSD 500gb, 16gb ram.
what do you guys say?
JonnyDBrit
Member
For a prebuilt that's not bad at all, especially with the situation as it stands due to cryptocurrency.
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
GAF, I upgraded from a 1080p 60Hz to 1440p 144Hz monitor and it was a big mistake. I am no longer satisfied with my RX480.
I bet 1440p 144hz would look great but this is exactly why I'm not going after higher framerates. It's too expensive to achieve. Like someone said even a 1080 will struggle. If you're serious about it then you'll need a 1080ti and a gsync monitor would help because not even a 1080 ti can hit 144fps in most games at 1440p but it's the closest you'll get right now. If you do hit 144 then you'll struggle to go back to 60.
Sometimes I feel like 60hz is too slow but I'm perfectly fine with it. My wallet thanks me too.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
so that will give me at elast 3 years of gaming on 1080p 60fps on high settings righ?
I think the cpu could be bottleneck, 6400 only has 4 core 4 threads. It would've been better if it has R5 1400,1500 or 1600 at least, imo.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Depends on what the next generational leap brings. Otherwise, it'll do Ultra on most games now, so if it holds up like the GTX 970 has, yes, it should handle high - maybe medium if necessary - for a good while.
I waited 2 months to get my RX580 from Amazon.ca. Just happy I got it for $300
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Well the all-in-1 is just all those individual drivers in a single package, so, yes just use that.
With respect to BIOS: generally if everything is working, you don't need to bother updating. Occasionally BIOS updates can add features (expanded compatibility for memory, for example) but until you come across the need, just leave the BIOS as is.