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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

No problem, good luck on your build!



How old are they and do you know how much they sell for? Because from what I've seen CeX runs their business by ripping people off, the buy and sell prices of some products are ridiculous.

CeX works best as a matter of trade in on balance, or because you're pretty sure what you won't sell otherwise (just this week I put in a copy of Infinite Warfare I got for free from Prime Day for £10 voucher value). Just trading in? Yeah, you won't get the full value you should in most instances, though depending on the age of the hardware, at least they'll give you something vs selling on ebay to no avail.

So yeah, it depends on the parts as to whether or not it'll even marginally be worth it.
 
CeX works best as a matter of trade in on balance, or because you're pretty sure what you won't sell otherwise (just this week I put in a copy of Infinite Warfare I got for free from Prime Day for £10 voucher value). Just trading in? Yeah, you won't get the full value you should in most instances, though depending on the age of the hardware, at least they'll give you something vs selling on ebay to no avail.

So yeah, it depends on the parts as to whether or not it'll even marginally be worth it.

Perhaps I was a little too harsh. There are some decent prices that can be had for buying and selling things, and there are of-course some merits to the store such as the convenience of selling to them. I guess it mostly depends on what you're buying and selling, you may not get the full value of some of the items you sell but at-least you have an option to sell things.
Selling things for an in-store voucher can offer you decent prices but you are locked into their store as a result.

I do think some of their buy prices are ridiculous though, however their prices of selling recent games can be alright if you're selling for a voucher. I've seen sell prices of around £28 for Nier: Automata and Tekken 7 using this method.
 

mojiimbo

Member
Saw that Amazon has an i5 6600k for $170. Any opinions on that plus this combo on Newegg for a budget 1080p gaming build?

Sapphire Radeon NITRO+ RX 580 8GB GDDR5 PCI-E Dual HDMI / DVI-D / Dual DP w/ backplate (UEFI), GIGABYTE G1 Gaming GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0) LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

https://slickdeals.net/f/10378508-s...gaming-ga-z170x-gaming-7-combo-390-ar-f-s?v=1

I ordered a EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB for $280 out of desperation already but I can still return it.

Thanks!
 

kuYuri

Member
Saw that Amazon has an i5 6600k for $170. Any opinions on that plus this combo on Newegg for a budget 1080p gaming build?

Sapphire Radeon NITRO+ RX 580 8GB GDDR5 PCI-E Dual HDMI / DVI-D / Dual DP w/ backplate (UEFI), GIGABYTE G1 Gaming GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0) LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

https://slickdeals.net/f/10378508-s...gaming-ga-z170x-gaming-7-combo-390-ar-f-s?v=1

I ordered a EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB for $280 out of desperation already but I can still return it.

Thanks!

Solid looking build thus far, still need to choose chassis, hard drive(s), CPU cooler, PSU, and RAM though.

Also, that combo already comes with an AMD GPU unless you were specifically looking to get Nvidia.
 
Perhaps I was a little too harsh. There are some decent prices that can be had for buying and selling things, and there are of-course some merits to the store such as the convenience of selling to them. I guess it mostly depends on what you're buying and selling, you may not get the full value of some of the items you sell but at-least you have an option to sell things.
Selling things for an in-store voucher can offer you decent prices but you are locked into their store as a result.

I do think some of their buy prices are ridiculous though, however their prices of selling recent games can be alright if you're selling for a voucher. I've seen sell prices of around £28 for Nier: Automata and Tekken 7 using this method.

Oh, agreed. Most favourable I've seen it be with regards to the consumer is, oddly enough, CPU prices. For example, local store has an i7 2600k for £85. On ebay those can fetch over £100, and that's without the two year warranty CeX provides.
 

zedge

Member
Yay my pc came yesterday. The prebuilt from dell.

1700x
8gb
6gb 1060

Installed a few games so far. My 1TB secondary drive is already at 400gb remaining.. lmao. Runs great so far. Played some overwatch, gears 4, forza apex and horizon 3.

Is anyone in the GAF steam group? Can you please invite me if so?

xzedgex

Wondering if I can just by any random stick of 8gb ddr4 to put in the empty slot? Currently just one 8gb stick. I downloaded cpuid and it says it's a Samsung chip.
 
Oh, agreed. Most favourable I've seen it be with regards to the consumer is, oddly enough, CPU prices. For example, local store has an i7 2600k for £85. On ebay those can fetch over £100, and that's without the two year warranty CeX provides.

Funny that you should mention the i7 2600K, I was looking at it's pricing today and was surprised to see such a low price for it on CeX.

Yay my pc came yesterday. The prebuilt from dell.

1700x
8gb
6gb 1060

Installed a few games so far. My 1TB secondary drive is already at 400gb remaining.. lmao. Runs great so far. Played some overwatch, gears 4, forza apex and horizon 3.

Is anyone in the GAF steam group? Can you please invite me if so?

xzedgex

Wondering if I can just by any random stick of 8gb ddr4 to put in the empty slot? Currently just one 8gb stick. I downloaded cpuid and it says it's a Samsung chip.

Do you see a part number anywhere? You might be able to find out what exact model it is.

qq5AXxH.png

I'm not sure if DDR4 is any different from DDR3 when it comes to sets of memory which don't match, but from my experience it should be okay as long as the clocks, timings and voltages are the same.
 

VoxPop

Member
Picked up a 7700k, Z270MX, RM650X, Air 240 case and H100i V2 today from microcenter.

Gonna be swapping out my 2500K, shit mobo, a 212 evo and some other old corsair PSU for them. Planning on upgrading the ram, gpu and ssd sometime next week. Recycling my ram, ssd and 970 for now. Hopefully this isn't too much of a pain to install.
 
Funny that you should mention the i7 2600K, I was looking at it's pricing today and was surprised to see such a low price for it on CeX.

I find they tend to either aim for parity with or below the secondhand market price on CPUs, sometimes RAM too (at least if it's DDR3), vs GPUs which have a stupid high markup. They want £100 for an MSI GTX 960, and £190 for an MSI GTX 970.
 
Picked up a 7700k, Z270MX, RM650X, Air 240 case and H100i V2 today from microcenter.

Gonna be swapping out my 2500K, shit mobo, a 212 evo and some other old corsair PSU for them. Planning on upgrading the ram, gpu and ssd sometime next week. Recycling my ram, ssd and 970 for now. Hopefully this isn't too much of a pain to install.

Wait, can you use DDR3 memory with that motherboard?
 

VoxPop

Member
Wait, can you use DDR3 memory with that motherboard?


JonnyDBrit said:
Originally Posted by Soka
Wait, can you use DDR3 memory with that motherboard?
Yeah uh, pretty sure you can't. Without DDR4 that new motherboard isn't gonna work.


NOOOOOO! :(

Guess I gotta go pick some up later... Is there anything else I should know?

Thanks for the heads up!
 

zedge

Member
Funny that you should mention the i7 2600K, I was looking at it's pricing today and was surprised to see such a low price for it on CeX.



Do you see a part number anywhere? You might be able to find out what exact model it is.



I'm not sure if DDR4 is any different from DDR3 when it comes to sets of memory which don't match, but from my experience it should be okay as long as the clocks, timings and voltages are the same.

Yep there is a part number.

M378A1K43CB2-CRC

Took screenshots of cpuid. Going to go to memoryexpress after work and see if they can help get a stick that will work.
 
NOOOOOO! :(

Guess I gotta go pick some up later... Is there anything else I should know?

Thanks for the heads up!

Swapping motherboards means your version of Windows probably won't be licensed anymore. You'll be able to use everything like normal, but you'll have a Microsoft watermark on your screen. You'll need to reactivate Windows; you can probably use your old key if it's a retail (boxed) key, but if it was an OEM key or if you used the free upgrade from W7/W8 to W10, you may need a whole new key.
 

VoxPop

Member
Swapping motherboards means your version of Windows probably won't be licensed anymore. You'll be able to use everything like normal, but you'll have a Microsoft watermark on your screen. You'll need to reactivate Windows; you can probably use your old key if it's a retail (boxed) key, but if it was an OEM key or if you used the free upgrade from W7/W8 to W10, you may need a whole new key.

Yup already bought a new key and made a USB for that :)
 

ISee

Member
Yup already bought a new key and made a USB for that :)


Swapping motherboards means your version of Windows probably won't be licensed anymore. You'll be able to use everything like normal, but you'll have a Microsoft watermark on your screen. You'll need to reactivate Windows; you can probably use your old key if it's a retail (boxed) key, but if it was an OEM key or if you used the free upgrade from W7/W8 to W10, you may need a whole new key.

Not true. I reinstalled my 'free upgrade' win10 copy (by using my old win 8.1 key) now several times and switched mainboards and CPUs. You just need to bind the copy to your microsoft account. I wouldn't be surprised if OEM keys work the same.
 

VoxPop

Member
Quick question. Installing the H100i v2 in my air 240 right now. Do I make the fans point inward like the manual says? The picture also looks likes its mounted on top of the case which seems doable in the Air 240 but there are also a pair of preinstalled fans in the front of the case. Would it be better to remove those and place it there?
 
Not true. I reinstalled my 'free upgrade' win10 copy (by using my old win 8.1 key) now several times and switched mainboards and CPUs. You just need to bind the copy to your microsoft account. I wouldn't be surprised if OEM keys work the same.

Huh - read a ton up on it the free upgrade wouldn't work for a transfer. I guess I'm wrong. I never did the free upgrade myself so I had no way to test it, just is something I kept reading.
 

e90Mark

Member
Quick question. Installing the H100i v2 in my air 240 right now. Do I make the fans point inward like the manual says? The picture also looks likes its mounted on top of the case which seems doable in the Air 240 but there are also a pair of preinstalled fans in the front of the case. Would it be better to remove those and place it there?

I don't think the H100i would fit up top with fans. Would hit the RAM or heat sinks I believe. Should just put it up front with the fans set as intake, then take the case fans and put them up top for exhaust.
 

coopolon

Member
Huh - read a ton up on it the free upgrade wouldn't work for a transfer. I guess I'm wrong. I never did the free upgrade myself so I had no way to test it, just is something I kept reading.

I also used a free upgrade front win 8 on my new ryzen which had new Mobo, cpu, and ram. I always suspect the official policy on stuff like this isn't necessarily what actually happens. Like maybe it's not supposed to work but it does.

For me this was an upgrade to a win 8 I bought myself on my old PC.

Definitely encourage everyone to try before buying another key.
 

GodofWine

Member
ok, so I bought this rx 580 8gb

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZQMMHJ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

how does this compare to gfx 1060?

Is this a good price? MSRP is $230-240, but 260 is not bad things considered. I am building my first PC, so not sure if I will keep it or wait for something else.

It will only ship next week anyway, I have time to decide.

what do you guys say?

Best price I've seen in awhile, the etherium decline, along with a huge hack that just stole like $50 million of it will help discourage miners (for now).

I think the 8GB 580 should slightly outperform a 1060, but benchmarks are really close that I see.

Way back (like 2 months ago) before the etherium explosion I was hoping to grab a 580 8gb on sale for $200, as kind of a 'if I see this price, I jump and buy the rest of my parts after it"...Im now thinking $215 around November.

I definitely wouldn't feel ripped off at the price you stated though, its very good in today's market.
 
Best price I've seen in awhile, the etherium decline, along with a huge hack that just stole like $50 million of it will help discourage miners (for now).

I think the 8GB 580 should slightly outperform a 1060, but benchmarks are really close that I see.

Way back (like 2 months ago) before the etherium explosion I was hoping to grab a 580 8gb on sale for $200, as kind of a 'if I see this price, I jump and buy the rest of my parts after it"...Im now thinking $215 around November.

I definitely wouldn't feel ripped off at the price you stated though, its very good in today's market.

I am seeing some reivews, and people are mentioning about noisy fans and lack of backplate on armor series. now I am not sure what to do
 

kuYuri

Member
MSI Armor's are pretty much the second from the bottom or so in terms of MSI GPU quality.

I mean, it gets the job done, but don't expect much tbh.
 
RAM overclocking question.

My DDR4 is rated for 3000 MHz at 1.5V. I have it set to 2933 MHz via XMP + manually adjusting the DRAM Voltage to 1.35V on my Ryzen 1700 system. Works like a charm, even withstood Prime 95's Blend Test.

However, what are my odds of being able to overclock it to 3066 MHz now that the 1.0.0.6 AGESA is out and allows for 133 MHz increments? What's a safe voltage for DRAM anyway? If I needed, say, 1.38V to get it stable at 3066 MHz, is that reasonable, or am I putting my motherboard or RAM at risk of a noticeably shorter lifespan?
 
I'd expect NVIDIA to get their new cards out around September in time for Destiny 2.

Not sure if you're implying nVidia wants to release their cards based on a game release but if so, that does not happen.

There's still no evidence Volta consumer cards will appear before 2018.

RAM overclocking question.

My DDR4 is rated for 3000 MHz at 1.5V. I have it set to 2933 MHz via XMP + manually adjusting the DRAM Voltage to 1.35V on my Ryzen 1700 system. Works like a charm, even withstood Prime 95's Blend Test.

However, what are my odds of being able to overclock it to 3066 MHz now that the 1.0.0.6 AGESA is out and allows for 133 MHz increments? What's a safe voltage for DRAM anyway? If I needed, say, 1.38V to get it stable at 3066 MHz, is that reasonable, or am I putting my motherboard or RAM at risk of a noticeably shorter lifespan?

You should be fine at 1.38. Once you get to above 1.4, that's typically not recommended for 24/7 profiles.

1.5 is the max but remember that number refers to spikes and not continuous voltage. Still, you have guys out there that will run 1.5 no fucks given.

Exactly how much 1.38 will reduce lifespan is impossible to say. Generally you'd say it will reduce it but it's more likely you'll have changed out your system before that.
 
Hey all my buddy is thibking of buying a small form factor PC and getting into PC gaming. He was interesting in the msi trident 3 1070 seen here

http://techreport.com/news/31652/msi-trident-3-arctic-stuffs-a-gtx-1070-in-a-5l-package

I thought I'd try to put together something similar but imo better for gaming for roughly the same price and size. My initial build is this.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9w4MtJ

thoughts on the two?

Yours, no question. I'm using Newegg's price on the Trident 3 which I can reasonably assume is competitive and that's $1499 for a 1070, 256GB SSD with 1TB HDD. Now it has a 7700 (non K) but you have a 6600k that can be overclocked, with a 1080, a larger SSD and a Z270 board with what will be better cooling and 90 bucks less, which he can put towards a large HDD.

Actually have to say you've put together one of the better medium-level builds I've seen in this thread. For 1400 bucks that's a f'ing solid box.
 

Gojeran

Member
Yours, no question. I'm using Newegg's price on the Trident 3 which I can reasonably assume is competitive and that's $1499 for a 1070, 256GB SSD with 1TB HDD. Now it has a 7700 (non K) but you have a 6600k that can be overclocked, with a 1080, a larger SSD and a Z270 board with what will be better cooling and 90 bucks less, which he can put towards a large HDD.

Actually have to say you've put together one of the better medium-level builds I've seen in this thread. For 1400 bucks that's a f'ing solid box.

Thanks. Some of the choices like a single 525GB storage might seem strange but I know his gaming habits. He current game on a PS4 pro with a single 512GB SSD which works fine for him. He only even plays a few games at a time and doesn't mind swapping them out as needed. Also added storage later is easy enough. Also that's why the need for the small form factor case, it has to be easy to pack along on his travels similar to his Pro. If he lets me build it for him I'd honestly suggest going with a 1060 6GB for now and upgrading later if he wants. That should still outperform a PS4 pro (right?) on a 1080P screen and save him a lot of money. If PC gaming ends up being something he really loves he can add a 1170 or something like that at a later time but this current build was based on the MSI trident 3.
 
You should be fine at 1.38. Once you get to above 1.4, that's typically not recommended for 24/7 profiles.

1.5 is the max but remember that number refers to spikes and not continuous voltage. Still, you have guys out there that will run 1.5 no fucks given.

Exactly how much 1.38 will reduce lifespan is impossible to say. Generally you'd say it will reduce it but it's more likely you'll have changed out your system before that.

OK, thanks. When I first clocked it from 2133/1.25 to 2933/1.35, I never actually tried any voltages in-between. I will try to kick it up to 3066 MHz at 1.35V first and see what happens, then go up in 0.01V increments until stable. If I can't get it stable at 1.38V or fewer, then I'll just leave it at the 2933/1.35.
 

LilJoka

Member
OK, thanks. When I first clocked it from 2133/1.25 to 2933/1.35, I never actually tried any voltages in-between. I will try to kick it up to 3066 MHz at 1.35V first and see what happens, then go up in 0.01V increments until stable. If I can't get it stable at 1.38V or fewer, then I'll just leave it at the 2933/1.35.

1.38v vs 1.35v is going to have no real world difference in life span of the Intel memory controller. VDIMM tends to droop under load too.
 
How old are they and do you know how much they sell for? Because from what I've seen CeX runs their business by ripping people off, the buy and sell prices of some products are ridiculous.

5-6 years old. The trade in prices aren't superb but neither is selling through eBay. For instance, my according to thier website they'll buy my 1Gb 560Ti for £16/£23 (credit) and sell it on for £30. I got it second hand in the first place, so I don't consider that too bad.
 
Thanks. Some of the choices like a single 525GB storage might seem strange but I know his gaming habits. He current game on a PS4 pro with a single 512GB SSD which works fine for him. He only even plays a few games at a time and doesn't mind swapping them out as needed. Also added storage later is easy enough. Also that's why the need for the small form factor case, it has to be easy to pack along on his travels similar to his Pro. If he lets me build it for him I'd honestly suggest going with a 1060 6GB for now and upgrading later if he wants. That should still outperform a PS4 pro (right?) on a 1080P screen and save him a lot of money. If PC gaming ends up being something he really loves he can add a 1170 or something like that at a later time but this current build was based on the MSI trident 3.

Oh, yeah I didn't even think to ask what monitor he has. If you've ever seen my posts in this thread I'm always about the best GPU you can reasonably afford but, you're right, it may make more sense to get something lower if he's just at 1080p.

Haven't kept up with the GPU comparisons but yeah I think a PS4 Pro is like a 1060 or 1070?

I'd still go with a 1070 though but maybe a mini version.
 

VoxPop

Member
Everything is installed. Waiting for my RAM before I hook up the pump on the H100i to make sure it doesn't touch each other. Just need to slot in the RAM and GPU and I think i'm ready to go!

So the only cables I connected via the power supply was the Mobo / and 2x PCIE. And I'm guessing I need a SATA for my old SSD which I plan to take out of my old computer. Is there anything I'm missing? Never had a modular PSU before so not sure.
 

sikkinixx

Member
any recommended brands of USB Wifi adapters? My old linksys one sucks. And no, hard wiring isn't an option. My Wifi is pretty decent in my place but with this old adapter it has some mega slow down if I try to download a game and do something else at the same time.
 
Everything is installed. Waiting for my RAM before I hook up the pump on the H100i to make sure it doesn't touch each other. Just need to slot in the RAM and GPU and I think i'm ready to go!

So the only cables I connected via the power supply was the Mobo / and 2x PCIE. And I'm guessing I need a SATA for my old SSD which I plan to take out of my old computer. Is there anything I'm missing? Never had a modular PSU before so not sure.

You most likely have two cables from the PSU into the mobo: one for the mobo (I think it's 20-pin... it's rather large) and one for the CPU (probably an 8-pin). Make sure you've got all of that plugged in if necessary. The CPU plus is usually above the CPU socket.
 

VoxPop

Member
You most likely have two cables from the PSU into the mobo: one for the mobo (I think it's 20-pin... it's rather large) and one for the CPU (probably an 8-pin). Make sure you've got all of that plugged in if necessary. The CPU plus is usually above the CPU socket.

Yup I do have that cable and can see where it goes on the mobo. Does the other end go into the Peripherals & SATA slot or the 6+2 PCIE & 4x4 slot on the PSU? Sorry for all the questions :x
 
Yup I do have that cable and can see where it goes on the mobo. Does the other end go into the Peripherals & SATA slot or the 6+2 PCIE & 4x4 slot on the PSU? Sorry for all the questions :x

I don't think it matters, but there should be a "CPU" slot on your PSU for that cable.
 

VoxPop

Member
I don't think it matters, but there should be a "CPU" slot on your PSU for that cable.

oh it did say 4x4 CPU.

I had my PCIE wires saddled in there covering the lettering. Wow that could have been bad xD. Now I'm guessing the PCIE parts go on the left side of that slot
 

Everdred

Member
I've been fighting my 7700k temps for about a month and I've decided to turn hyper threading off.

I repasted and that dropped my temps from 95 to 93. Maxed my case on fans, that got me to 89. Then I changed from plastic style to metal heat sink mounting, that got me to 85. Then hyper threading off gets me to 78.

HT On Prime95 reaches 83-85c
Off Prime95 reaches 75-78c

I've checked a bunch of benchmarks and hyperthreading off is sometimes better performance and most of the time the same. So I basically turned my i7 into an i5

I have Master Pro4 cooler and could drop my temps with a better one but I just spent $35 on that and don't want to invest more. This is the most annoying build I've ever done, came from a 2500k and a Q6600 before that, zero issues.
 
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