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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
The entire connector detached from the MOBO? You'll probably have to RMA that I wouldn't even attempt to reconnect that myself personally.
If you are going to do that and it's broken beyond reasonable repair already you may need to take something like a flathead screwdriver and pry it out even if it breaks it so you can still use the case header.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Well uh, at least it looks like the pins are still there. I um, must admit I am perplexed by this one.
i mean it's just a piece of plastic. The pins on the motherboard are the fucker just wont' separate from the connector.
Oh so the pins are still in place haha. I guess I misread. Just pry that sucker off then.
Well, one screwdriver jammed between the cable and plastic housing and some very very careful placement later and it's fixed. Seriously, fuck this cable. I don't know if it's just USB 3.0 headers or the motherboard (Asus Z720e)'s fault, but jesus christ, a fairly smooth build process almost went up in flames because I wanted to reroute a single cable.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
Quick question guys.I am new to gaming PC and have played only on consoles.
I played Dishonored on my PC and just did not feel right. Too many buttons on the keyboard, like w s a d, plus control , shift, alt, f, they are too apart and it is hard to do it with only one hand.
How do you guys manage it ? Do you buy a gaming mouse where you can map more buttons on the mouse and get more comfortable ? Which one do you recommend ?
I played Dishonored on my PC and just did not feel right. Too many buttons on the keyboard, like w s a d, plus control , shift, alt, f, they are too apart and it is hard to do it with only one hand.
How do you guys manage it ? Do you buy a gaming mouse where you can map more buttons on the mouse and get more comfortable ? Which one do you recommend ?
ISee
Member
No, we are used to playing with kb&m. If you're having trouble just get a gamepade. Dishonored plays fine with it.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
So your mouse is a one with only 2 buttons ? Everything else is in the keyboard ?
JonnyDBrit
Member
Do remember your pinky finger and thumb can be valuable allies. Otherwise I'd just say we're used to it, and there's no shame in finding it awkward at first.
This is probably the universal way, but I usually go middle finger on W, forefinger on D (which can then reach E and F), third finger on A, pinky for SHIFT and CTRL, and then thumb is for spacebar. But it's best to find the style that suits you and manages to reach the keys you're looking for. Plus binding keys to your own style can help, too!
I try and play everything with a controller, though, since I grew up on console games, haha.
ISee
Member
There are more, but I only used them for MMOs. Normal games like Dishonored, CoD, Prey, Doom etc. play fine without having to use programmable mouse buttons. Other games like Dark Souls or Witcher 3 are best played with a gamepad anyway, imo.
But sure, if you want more buttons. PC gaming is all about the freedom to play as you see fit. Take a look at on the Logitech G600. 20 programmable buttons and up to 8200 dpi (adjustable on the fly). But you'll need one-two weeks of practice to get used to all the extra stuff. I had one for SW:Tor (and FF14 online later) for a long time. I liked it a lot.
Nostremitus
Member
I use an Xbox One controller.
Got the components in on the desk. It was only later that I saw my m.2 was not in the optimal spot.
m.2 moved, and the system is mounted. Surprisingly, I found the ATX mounting screws to be too wide for my board, I had to move some stuff around :\ Still, I got it mounted solidly.
Here it is with the cables hooked up. Only took me ten seconds to figure out why my disc drive wasn't reading (forgot the SATA cable, lol).
link to build specs
It was a nightmare getting Win7 on this. I just ended up hooking up my old Win7 drive and installing Win7 to my m.2 from within Windows.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
You can update to Windows 10 from 7. I just used my old Windows 7 key on a new build this week and I was able to do a fresh install of windows 10
Ugh, I've had to deal with that before, except it was my 24 pin mobo cable. That fucker was on tight, took multiple tries and it often felt like I was going to break my mobo from all that force.
Sucks that it happened to you.
This happened to me the other day when trying to reroute everything & install my SSD on my new build. After freaking out & calming down, I just left the plastic housing on the cable and rerouted it because I couldn't get it off no matter what I did even once I ripped it up. Once I was done I lined it up with the rectangle and pushed it back into the pins gently and didn't bend anything. Works fine and even installed my OS off the case USB that used that header just to be sure.
My mobo was a completely different one (Asrock X370 Taichi) so I don't think it's the mobo. Seems like shitty design of the header. There's no release tab like the other headers and it just won't budge.
I'm doing that. I just had a devil of a time from a bootable USB of getting Win7 onto my m.2 initially.
Bloodember
Member
To everyone that is trying to install Windows 7. Windows 7 isn't compatible with Ryzen or Kaby Lake. It may work, but not to it's full potential, just upgrade it to 10.
ISee
Member
It is compatible, it's just not supported. This may sound like nitpicking, but this is a huge difference. Win7 will install/run and most of the stuff will work other things like nvme drives will need some work. If you encounter a problem or your software crashes microsoft will deny you any kind of support though and mb drivers may not be updadet in the future.
Phatosaurus
Member
Welcome to the land of options, bro.
You can plug just about anything into your PC to use to play games with. PS4/X1 controller, 3rd party controllers, cut-down keyboards with alternative layouts for games, etc.
As for using a KB/M, I and I'm sure most play with their pinky over shift/Ctrl and the ring, middle and index resting on A, W, and S respectively. Thumb neutrally over the spcaebar.
From there, you can easily and quickly press the essential keys.
A mouse with a couple extra side buttons is always useful but not essential.
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
Purpose: Looking to do a new build in time for Destiny 2, and games going on from there. I mostly use it for gaming (all kinds) at 1440p and typically heavily multi-task across multiple monitors but the only taxing activity would be casual streaming.
PCPartPicker: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2DVynn
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2DVynn/by_merchant/
I'll be keeping the following parts from my current build;
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970
SSD: Samsung SSD 840 Pro (128GB)
SSD: Ocz Vertex2 (64GB)
HDD: WD10EZEX (1TB)
HDD: Samsung HD204 (2TB)
Monitor #1: Acer XB270HU IPS
Monitor #2: Dell U2311H IPS
Monitor #3: Dell U2311H IPS
I'll be upgrading from an i5-3570k, so will be the first full re-build in 5 years. Hoping the bump will be significantly noticable.
Q1. I'm aware the Ryzen isn't as capable for gaming currently, but am I right in the assumption that it'll be better in the long term thanks to motherboard lifespan, potential performance improvements to be had and in general multi-tasking benefits?
Q2. I'm aware there's memory support issues with the Ryzen (though lessened by recent updates). Is the selected memory a good supported choice?
Q3. With a GPU upgrade to the next hardware series to come, will my spec list be well rounded in terms of bottlenecks?
1. Ryzen definitely makes the most sense right now for the longer term. It's still improving all the time and optimizations for new games should be even more robust owing to its disruption to the market and being impossible to ignore. It's also unstoppable now that gaming will slowly become more and more multi-threaded. Intel's new mainstream is 6-cores but the value for money on the Intel side is atrocious in all honesty.
2. You'll find help with that here: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1348347&page=78
3. Personal choice but I'd opt for a 750W PSU
RandomExpletive
Member
Don't wanna risk playing PUBG while I wait for Gigabyte to get back to me about my 1080 RMA (please god let it go smoothly). Figured I should build the "shelf" for my PC already
I'm terrible with wood so I'm actually pretty stoked. Will probably re-do with an extra shelf in the middle to fit all my shoes.
Is there a reason nearly every header on a motherboard requires IMMENSE force to insert/remove cables?
I'm terrible with wood so I'm actually pretty stoked. Will probably re-do with an extra shelf in the middle to fit all my shoes.
Ugh, I've had to deal with that before, except it was my 24 pin mobo cable. That fucker was on tight, took multiple tries and it often felt like I was going to break my mobo from all that force.
Sucks that it happened to you.
Is there a reason nearly every header on a motherboard requires IMMENSE force to insert/remove cables?
I am puzzled. Very puzzled. Moved my modem and router into another room to hook it directly into the PC via Ethernet. However, it isn't working. Wi-Fi is totally fine, but not ethernet for some reason.
Used the troubleshooter and it says "ethernet doesn't have a valid ip configuration"
So I've tried every solution provided through these links:
- http://windowsreport.com/ethernet-valid-ip-configuration-windows-10/
- http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3369479/windows-ethernet-valid-configuration.html
Still the same result. Could it mean that the ethernet component (which I suppose is on the motherboard?) might be faulty?
- Win 10
- Motherboard AB350M PRO4
- Realtek PCIe GBE family controller
Used the troubleshooter and it says "ethernet doesn't have a valid ip configuration"
So I've tried every solution provided through these links:
- http://windowsreport.com/ethernet-valid-ip-configuration-windows-10/
- http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3369479/windows-ethernet-valid-configuration.html
Still the same result. Could it mean that the ethernet component (which I suppose is on the motherboard?) might be faulty?
- Win 10
- Motherboard AB350M PRO4
- Realtek PCIe GBE family controller
Ugh, I've had to deal with that before, except it was my 24 pin mobo cable. That fucker was on tight, took multiple tries and it often felt like I was going to break my mobo from all that force.
Sucks that it happened to you.
I'm missing an M.2 port because I decided to move my stick from the slot in the open to one by the CPU. When I started to unscrew it, the standoff popped off the motherboard rather than the screw turning.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
And I assume you've reset the router, etc.
Next step might be to reinstall TCP/IP stack. Do you have a laptop or another computer to test that same connection? Have you tried entering IP settings manually?
Just downloaded the diagnostics program available here, ran diagnostics..... no issues.
Stumped. And I understand this isn't a troubleshooting community, but do you guys have any idea on what I should do next?
Also, FWIW, it starts at "Identifying..." and a minute later results in "Unidentified Network" with "No internet" underneath.
I'm wondering if I've configured the network in some way that it works for Wi-Fi but not ethernet....
RandomExpletive
Member
Bleh, trying to get my RAM on this Ryzen above 2133 (I have 3000) and it just boot loops
Same here, I had it stable at 2933 but after updating to the latest BIOS now it'll "work" at 2933, but after a restart or two it'll konk out back to 2133.
Oh nice it worked at 2933 16 18 18 36 or something. Gonna run memtest for a few hours, then probably overnight
Sorry for the DP....
Next step might be to reinstall TCP/IP stack. -- Hmm how do I do that? I've gone to Ethernet properties where I can select Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4], but it doesn't give me an option to uninstall.
Do you have a laptop or another computer to test that same connection? -- None available with ethernet, unfortunately
Have you tried entering IP settings manually? -- Nope. And this is where my ignorance shines through. How do I enter them manually? I think I've done this before, maybe a year ago, but can't recall.
[edit] wait..... Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) is uninstalled already... that's why I didn't see the option...yikes. Ok. Client, Service or Protocol?
Yep, reset the router, changed the ethernet cable, etc.
Next step might be to reinstall TCP/IP stack. -- Hmm how do I do that? I've gone to Ethernet properties where I can select Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4], but it doesn't give me an option to uninstall.
Do you have a laptop or another computer to test that same connection? -- None available with ethernet, unfortunately
Have you tried entering IP settings manually? -- Nope. And this is where my ignorance shines through. How do I enter them manually? I think I've done this before, maybe a year ago, but can't recall.
K I will look into this
[edit] wait..... Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) is uninstalled already... that's why I didn't see the option...yikes. Ok. Client, Service or Protocol?
Hey guys, looking for some quick opinions here. My husband is building his own PC and is wanting to know if this sounds like a good/cohesive build and suggestions to make it better.
Think he already has storage picked out which is why it's not on here.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($187.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z270M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($112.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Mini Video Card ($259.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone - Sugo SG13P Mini ITX Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($41.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $671.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-05 21:50 EDT-0400
Think he already has storage picked out which is why it's not on here.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($187.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z270M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($112.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Mini Video Card ($259.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone - Sugo SG13P Mini ITX Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($41.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $671.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-05 21:50 EDT-0400
I'm at 2666 right now. I'll try it again later with higher speed and looser timings.
ColdDeckEd
Member
At that price point, I think Ryzen 5 is the better value. I've seen people picking up the 1600 for that price which will run circles around that cpu. Or get the i5 7600k.
Or if he's not planning on overclocking see if you can save alittle by getting a non z motherboard. Though I see you are going for a mini itx build so im sure the options are limited.
Other than that looks like a nice little build. I've always wanted to do a sff build like that.
RumblingRosco
Member
Bleh, trying to get my RAM on this Ryzen above 2133 (I have 3000) and it just boot loops
Did you adjust DRAM voltage to 1.35V?
I did that yeah. I also tried 1.38 because it was written on the RAM sticker.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
Are you sure it goes back to 2133? Mine is set up to 2933, but the cpuz will say it is at 2133(initial speed before the adjustment) , but if you check the bios and the windows ram checker , it is 2933. I have a b350 board and ryzen 5 1600
RandomExpletive
Member
When it was failing to boot w/ 2933, it wouldn't show the msi splash screen until it reverted to 2133. After its 5th boot or whatever it finally did show the splash screen I checked and the bios reported 2133
Checking hwinfo64 also reported the speed as 2133 after it failed, even though my OC settings in bios were still 2933, it only ran at 2133
Luckily now its handling 2933 alright, on the 2nd run of memtest86
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Protocol. Is IPv6 there?
Also try connecting to your router and check your DHCP settings there.
Reinstall TCP/IP stack: command "netsh int ip reset"
For manual config: connect to your wifi and run "ipconfig /all" from a command window; look at your IP and other settings. Then go to the properties of IPv4 on the Ethernet adapter of the computer having issues. Manually enter everything, choosing an IP where the last number is slightly different from the one you have on WiFi.
Copy the subnet mask, default gateway, DNS servers as they appear in the command window.
Hit OK.
Wozzer
Member
Purpose: Looking to do a new build in time for Destiny 2, and games going on from there. I mostly use it for gaming (all kinds) at 1440p and typically heavily multi-task across multiple monitors but the only taxing activity would be casual streaming.
PCPartPicker: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2DVynn
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2DVynn/by_merchant/
I'll be keeping the following parts from my current build;
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970
SSD: Samsung SSD 840 Pro (128GB)
SSD: Ocz Vertex2 (64GB)
HDD: WD10EZEX (1TB)
HDD: Samsung HD204 (2TB)
Monitor #1: Acer XB270HU IPS
Monitor #2: Dell U2311H IPS
Monitor #3: Dell U2311H IPS
I'll be upgrading from an i5-3570k, so will be the first full re-build in 5 years. Hoping the bump will be significantly noticable.
Based on the above I'll be relying on the 970 to get me through until the new wave of GPUs roll around (assuming a 1170/1170Ti so far at least). I'll also be looking to jump on the Ultrawide hype (currently looking at the Acer x34) around the same time as a GPU upgrade.
Q1. I'm aware the Ryzen isn't as capable for gaming currently, but am I right in the assumption that it'll be better in the long term thanks to motherboard lifespan, potential performance improvements to be had and in general multi-tasking benefits?
Q2. I'm aware there's memory support issues with the Ryzen (though lessened by recent updates). Is the selected memory a good supported choice?
Q3. With a GPU upgrade to the next hardware series to come, will my spec list be well rounded in terms of bottlenecks?
Been doing some research further and thinking of upgrading a few components to ensure happy memory compatibility and slightly beefier across the board too;
Anyone got any experience, thoughts, concerns or suggestions for the above shortlist?
RandomExpletive
Member
OK so update I guess to the mystery of my shitty Gigabyte WF 1080.
Figured since I'm probably gonna be waiting forever for an RMA, might as well get some PUBG in, albeit at much lower settings than I'd expect to get on a 1080. When I was testing to see how badly my GPU behaved @ stock voltage/clocks, typically around 70+ C is when I'd see artifacting. So I figure if I can keep the temps below 60+ I'm probably fine.
And cut to 10 minutes ago, temps at ~55 C and artifacts start occurring! And this is with the 100 MHz downclock on my core and memory frequencies! I freaked out and downclocked AGAIN, -200 MHz on both, and 2 minutes later, artifacting's back, uhg.
So I can't even play more than ~.5-1 hour of pubg while I wait for Gigabyte to get back to me!
I'm afraid to run ANY game at this point... guess I'll try to OC my 1700 now since I've nothing else to do
Figured since I'm probably gonna be waiting forever for an RMA, might as well get some PUBG in, albeit at much lower settings than I'd expect to get on a 1080. When I was testing to see how badly my GPU behaved @ stock voltage/clocks, typically around 70+ C is when I'd see artifacting. So I figure if I can keep the temps below 60+ I'm probably fine.
And cut to 10 minutes ago, temps at ~55 C and artifacts start occurring! And this is with the 100 MHz downclock on my core and memory frequencies! I freaked out and downclocked AGAIN, -200 MHz on both, and 2 minutes later, artifacting's back, uhg.
So I can't even play more than ~.5-1 hour of pubg while I wait for Gigabyte to get back to me!
I'm afraid to run ANY game at this point... guess I'll try to OC my 1700 now since I've nothing else to do
What should CPU temps generally be over long play sessions? I'm burning through Wolfenstein: TNO (great game btw) and I'm hovering between 60C and 70C for most of it. Peak moments like big firefights it'll hit 70C then go back down to like 64.
That fine or should I move the clock speed down a smidge?
That fine or should I move the clock speed down a smidge?
RandomExpletive
Member
Don't, you'll get artifacts in 2D as well
Well yeah but I've had this thing sitting at 3.0 since I crashed at 3.7 and got scurred. Gotta conquer this thing!!
Not off to a great start, just set it to 3.0 at 1.2V, exited BIOS and I'm staring at a black screen... Lol
Ok so should I hit the rest button? It's just sitting here unresponsive, and my peripherals aren't receiving power but my power buttons light is on :/
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
if you don't go over 70C then you've nothing to worry about
my absolute limit is 85C and that includes stress tests. my 6700K at 4.5GHz doesn't go over 84C during IBT on Max. on High it's about 73C. during games it can be anywhere between 40-70C depending on the game. for example, GTA V at 1440p 60fps with most settings maxed out (no msaa, nvidia stuff, or enhanced shadows) i get between 50-70C but mostly 50-60C. Witcher 3 pushes a bit harder and sits about 60-70C. that's all settings maxed out except hairworks and at 1080p.
my cooler is a Cryorig R1 and i have 4x140mm fans.
RandomExpletive
Member
Same problem, Mobo/components all receiving power, peripherals nada. Held the pwr button and cleared th CMOS and we're back in at stocks.
How is 3 GHz @ 1.2V not working?!!
Gonna boot to Windows with stock CPU/ram speeds make sure we're all good, then bump up the ram to 2933 since I at least know that's good
Damn man my GPUs infecting the rest of my computer with its horrible performance at stock clocks