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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Well my CPU and case came after I was told I would not get the CPU until at the earliest the 7th. But now the MB is out wandering around town and will be delivered sometime before 8 tonight. I am going out of town for the weekend. I guess the build will wait till I get home.

Hype for building systems is real. Best of luck to Booker.DeWitt, Dr.Acula and Darkslayer 101 on your builds.

Enjoy your new toy Broken Ska Record hopefully it is smooth sailing after the loose wires.
 

rob_lh

Neo Member
I feel like I'm being incredibly stupid here, but I just got a new Ryzen build sorted. I'm using a 1800x, so I'm seeing that +20c bullshit. Ryzen Master shows I'm exactly 20c less than HWmonitor for example.

The problem I'm having is my new cooler's fan is going nuts and I don't know how to change my fan curve properly. I can see things like speedfan don't work yet, so I tried in the bios. All I can find in there to control it is a visual graph which lets me set a curve but doesn't seem to work once I hit windows. I can see that Gigabyte boards should have a bunch of smartfan control curves ready to go, but this MSI one doesn't have anything but this standard graphical thing. It also doesn't ramp up until I've logged in and hit the desktop (no idea if that matters, just thought it was odd). Another odd point, when in the bios I set all fans to run at max and it was far more quiet than once I get into windows.

I have to be missing something stupid here, right? I actually thought the CPU was the issue so I got amazon to send out a new one, but it's clearly not what's causing this.

For the record, idle temps are 40-50c idle in Ryzen Master, HWMonitor and Aida64 report 60-70c. I can't run Aida64 as it stops out thinking the cpu is too hot (I guess? it doesn't tell me much), but I tried just running various games (The Witcher 3, Total War Warhammer and Battlefield) and it peaked around 65c in Ryzen Master. Not sure how great the "real" temps are for that cooler...

Here's the specs:
Motherboard: MSI B350 Tomahawk - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06WWPDJ95/
CPU: AMD Ryzen 1800x: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06W9JXK4G/
Cooler: CoolerMaster MasterLiquid 120: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cooler-master-masterliquid-120-aio-cpu-cooler-hs-07c-cm.html
RAM: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0134EW7G8/
PSU: EVGA Supernova G2 650W - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/evga...plus-gold-modular-power-supply-ca-026-ea.html
GPU: 1080ti
Also a sound card and network card harddrives. Dunno if info on them is relevant but I can figure it out if needed.

Could really use the help and would very much appreciate it!
Sorry if this post is a bit of a mess but I'm super tired writing it. Let me know if more info is needed.

Fan stuff is all controlled by the motherboard. I would check for a new BIOS first over here https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B350-TOMAHAWK.html#productFeature-section and update that if needed.

Next, I'd check on the fan controls in the BIOS itself. Are they DC or PWM? PWM is usually what gives you those finer graphs, and what enables you to tweak them. DC is just going full blast. If they're PWM and not ramping appropriately, it could be 1) broken fans and/or 2) bad motherboard sensors. Hard to say without seeing exactly how it's ramping under different loads.
 
So I'm kind of at a loss. I want to build a new PC. I haven't built one in over 15 years and have no idea where to start. I keep hearing great things about AMDs ryzen and their new cards coming out but I know Intel has been the safe bet. I'm pretty sure my wife won't let me drop too much dough right now either. My Budget will likely be between 6 to 800 bucks. What does anyone think would be the best route? I would be using it to game and some light video/photo editing. I don't really need top of the line but I would like to be good for a couple years if possible. Thanks for the replies in advanced.
 

CISphil

Neo Member
Fan stuff is all controlled by the motherboard. I would check for a new BIOS first over here https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B350-TOMAHAWK.html#productFeature-section and update that if needed.

Next, I'd check on the fan controls in the BIOS itself. Are they DC or PWM? PWM is usually what gives you those finer graphs, and what enables you to tweak them. DC is just going full blast. If they're PWM and not ramping appropriately, it could be 1) broken fans and/or 2) bad motherboard sensors. Hard to say without seeing exactly how it's ramping under different loads.

I've got the latest BIOS. Tried tweaking the fans every which way, changing them between PWM and DC doesn't make a difference in windows, though I've left it as PWM since that's what it should be. DC like you said makes it go full blast in BIOS, again still quieter than in windows. I set the fan curve to never go above 50% even at 100c and in windows it just doesn't care and goes straight to full blast as soon as I reach the desktop. I also tried only plugging in a single fan thinking because I dunno I thought maybe it was sending double the power due to the spliter some how (no idea why I thought this, desperate measures?) but nah, same deal with just intake.

I'm confused because it seems to react as I'd expect in BIOS, but in Windows it's just OTT the moment I hit the desktop (stays silent while I'm still in the login screen).

I do have another motherboard I had Amazon send out with the CPU, but I'd rather not go through the hassle if I don't have to. I guess I'll do it tomorrow if I can't find a solution.

Edit: I also installed the latest chipset drivers, and windows updates with no luck. Half thinking of scrapping the whole plan and going back to my i5, but I'm genuinely curious what dumb thing I'm overlooking.

Edit2: Ignore this, I'm dumb (See below)
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
So I'm kind of at a loss. I want to build a new PC. I haven't built one in over 15 years and have no idea where to start. I keep hearing great things about AMDs ryzen and their new cards coming out but I know Intel has been the safe bet. I'm pretty sure my wife won't let me drop too much dough right now either. My Budget will likely be between 6 to 800 bucks. What does anyone think would be the best route? I would be using it to game and some light video/photo editing. I don't really need top of the line but I would like to be good for a couple years if possible. Thanks for the replies in advanced.

if for gaming and light photo/video work then intel is a good choice. intel is best for gaming and is good for photo/video editing. i have a 6700K and it's more than enough for me and i do some photo/video editing. ryzen is weaker at games but would be a better choice if you were serious about heavy workloads.

i don't know what kind of parts would fit within your budget but an i5 is seen as the minimum for decent gaming and for 1080p gaming a GTX 1060 or RX 570/580. 8GB ram is probably the absolute minimum amount of RAM these days. games can easily use 10GB. i have 16GB and feel it's not enough but if you're on a tight budget 8GB will be OK. the rest is just down to preference..case..motherboard..hard drive..psu.
 
if for gaming and light photo/video work then intel is a good choice. intel is best for gaming and is good for photo/video editing. i have a 6700K and it's more than enough for me and i do some photo/video editing. ryzen is weaker at games but would be a better choice if you were serious about heavy workloads.

i don't know what kind of parts would fit within your budget but an i5 is seen as the minimum for decent gaming and for 1080p gaming a GTX 1060 or RX 570/580. 8GB ram is probably the absolute minimum amount of RAM these days. games can easily use 10GB. i have 16GB and feel it's not enough but if you're on a tight budget 8GB will be OK. the rest is just down to preference..case..motherboard..hard drive..psu.

Thanks for the reply! Yeah I was just wondering about Intel vs AMD. Im not really into being flashy so the bare minimum for case and what not would work for me. Thanks for info on that!
 

hitme

Member
Is an ultrawide worth it? I was going to do a dual monitor setup, but I'm looking at a 32-34" inch ultrawide instead.
 
I've never seen this before, but if I had to guess I'd say these are graphics card artifacts?
https://gfycat.com/gifs/detail/YawningPreciousCapybara

RTSS Overlay
Code:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/UVQQIFg.png[/IMG]
HWINFO CPU & GPU at the time (sorry for the blur)
Code:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Qw1c0ne.png[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/zUOJXQP.png[/IMG]

After recording the video I put PUBG's res scale down to 70% or whatever the lowest is, and this stopped, and my GPU usage dropped by about 50%

Realizing now I should've done screen capture as well :\
 

The Chef

Member
Ya'll I need some serious help with my internet.
I have a wireless network card on my PC.
This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053GR2YI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an Airport Extreme in my living room and my PC is in my office on the same floor. Not too far away at all. My PS4 in my office gets great connection speeds but my PC just fluctuates like mad with its wireless signal.

I was going to try and run a cat5 to this room but going under the house is impossible and going into the attic is an incredible pain in the ass.

So what should I do? Should I get a better wireless card? Maybe one that supports 5ghz? Should I get a signal booster?
 
Is this happening in other games or 3D applications? Try 3DMark, Superposition, Valley and similar tests.
It's possible PUBG is being weird.

Not as pronounced but once I got to ~ 70+ C I saw the same flickering lights. This was around the last 2 scenes of superposition benchmark

Re-ran on 1080p Extreme (1st one was 1080p medium), lights appeared at a similar place, GPU was at 74-76 C
 

CISphil

Neo Member
Oh god I'm so embarassed right now. It wasn't the bloody CPU fans making that much noise at all, it was a wire caught in the graphics card. Sorry! My post was pointless and I was indeed fucking stupid.

By the way, I found out by that MSI have a tool called "Command Center" which let me turn the fans off and figure out the issue. It's dead quiet now.

Thanks for trying to help rob_lh. Hope people here enjoy my tale of stupidity.
 

3x0

Neo Member
Not as pronounced but once I got to ~ 70+ C I saw the same flickering lights. This was around the last 2 scenes of superposition benchmark

Re-ran on 1080p Extreme (1st one was 1080p medium), lights appeared at a similar place, GPU was at 74-76 C

Yeah, GPU being faulty is very likely at this point. Hopefully you still have warranty.
 

3x0

Neo Member
I bought it a week ago, so I'd wager I do :p

Have you tried some classic troubleshooting steps, like re-seating the card in the PCI-e slot, checking whether the PCIe power connectors are firmly in place, reinstalled drivers etc.?
I must admit that it's my first time seeing artifacts manifested like that, usually it's broken geometry, colors and textures, not lights :p
 
Is an ultrawide worth it? I was going to do a dual monitor setup, but I'm looking at a 32-34" inch ultrawide instead.

Yeah, it is.

Not sure which models/price range you're looking at but I had the LG UM3495 a couple of years back and currently have a Dell U3415W both at work and at home and it's brilliant and fairly affordable these days.

As far as support: most games have native support for 3440x1440 or you can download modified EXEs from WSGF (Wide Screen Gaming Forum) for some unsupported games which do a good job. I wouldn't let that be a deterrent.
 

rob_lh

Neo Member
I've got the latest BIOS. Tried tweaking the fans every which way, changing them between PWM and DC doesn't make a difference in windows, though I've left it as PWM since that's what it should be. DC like you said makes it go full blast in BIOS, again still quieter than in windows. I set the fan curve to never go above 50% even at 100c and in windows it just doesn't care and goes straight to full blast as soon as I reach the desktop. I also tried only plugging in a single fan thinking because I dunno I thought maybe it was sending double the power due to the spliter some how (no idea why I thought this, desperate measures?) but nah, same deal with just intake.

I'm confused because it seems to react as I'd expect in BIOS, but in Windows it's just OTT the moment I hit the desktop (stays silent while I'm still in the login screen).

I do have another motherboard I had Amazon send out with the CPU, but I'd rather not go through the hassle if I don't have to. I guess I'll do it tomorrow if I can't find a solution.

Edit: I also installed the latest chipset drivers, and windows updates with no luck. Half thinking of scrapping the whole plan and going back to my i5, but I'm genuinely curious what dumb thing I'm overlooking.

I'm at a loss too. Do you have a lot of startup applications that might cause it to go full throttle at launch? Do you have any desktop apps that enable you to set the fan control there? They might be overriding the BIOS settings.
 
Have you tried some classic troubleshooting steps, like re-seating the card in the PCI-e slot, checking whether the PCIe power connectors are firmly in place, reinstalled drivers etc.?
I must admit that it's my first time seeing artifacts manifested like that, usually it's broken geometry, broken colors and corrupted textures

Right yes, I'll run through those. I did have a lotta trouble getting the 8 pin power connector fully seated, but when I checked it today it looked secure, but I'll give it a shot

Yeah I'm used to geometry flying around the screen, not lights. I guess it could be my display, but the graphics card makes the most sense atm

Should I re-install these same drivers or older ones? I had a graphics driver related crash last night
 

3x0

Neo Member
Try an older driver if you're currently on the newest available. Use DDU (Display driver uninstaller) to make sure no remnants are left.
 

Samaritan

Member
Thermaltake Riing 12 Series High Static Pressure 120mm Circular LED Ring Case/Radiator Fan with Anti-Vibration Mounting System Cooling CL-F038-PL12WT-A White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRKVG9Q/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Aura can sync with only a handful of RGB fans, but those are still rare to find. Most RGB fans will require an extra hardware. It is up to you to decide if it is worth it or not

And the Riing fans integrate with Aura Sync? I couldn't find anything on the Thermaltake site saying if it works with Aura or not.
 

Durden77

Member
Reposting this to see if anyone could help, I'd really appreciate any advice if anyway has any.

So I didn't really know where else to post this, but could anyone help me get an idea of how much my PC would be worth to sell as is?

It's a Power Spec PC with Windows 7. Intel Core i7-4770K CPU @ 3.50GHz. 4 core. Graphics card NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760. 16.0 gigs of RAM.

I've had it for about 4 years, and while it's been a great PC, I haven't used it in well over a year. I could use the money much more than it right now.

I don't know shit about this stuff these days. I'm just looking for a general price tag that I could throw this thing up on Offerup or something and sell it quick.

Sorry if there's a better thread for this. If there is if anyone could point me in the right direction I'll take it there.
 

CISphil

Neo Member
I'm at a loss too. Do you have a lot of startup applications that might cause it to go full throttle at launch? Do you have any desktop apps that enable you to set the fan control there? They might be overriding the BIOS settings.

See my later post if you haven't already. It was just me not realizing the noise was coming from the GPU rather than the CPU. CPU fans are behaving themselves now using Command Control through windows. I'm going to chalk the fans CPU fans not slowing down correctly to me not paying enough attention to the actual rpm value rather than the noise between reboots
also being super tired
.

Thanks for the help though, I appreciate it.
 

Marmelade

Member
Right yes, I'll run through those. I did have a lotta trouble getting the 8 pin power connector fully seated, but when I checked it today it looked secure, but I'll give it a shot

Yeah I'm used to geometry flying around the screen, not lights. I guess it could be my display, but the graphics card makes the most sense atm

Should I re-install these same drivers or older ones? I had a graphics driver related crash last night

Your artifacts definitely look GPU related.
Did you overclock it? (core and/or VRAM)
Even if it's not, downclock it (test both core/vram) and see if the artifacts are still there.
Could be your GPU can't even maintain its stock frequencies.
 
Your artifacts definitely look GPU related.
Did you overclock it? (core and/or VRAM)
Even if it's not, downclock it (test both core/vram) and see if the artifacts are still there.
Could be your GPU can't even maintain its stock frequencies.

Haven't touched it's voltages, only had it for ~ a week.

It's a Gigabyte WF 1080, Stock voltages stock frequency.

Just reseated it in its PCIE slot, reseated the 8 pin power, and rolled back to 382.53

I'd need to lower my frequencies or raise my core voltage to eliminate these artifacts & ensure stable performance right?

Update-
Didnt see any artifacts with a 100 MHz downclock on the core clock & memory clocks

Temps only hit 70 at the very end, wanna see if I can't get them above 70

update 2-
2nd run at -100 mhz DID yield artifacts, max temp of 72
Code:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/CKyy5i7.jpg[/img]

update 3-
tried uninstalling afterburner/rtss, no change.

Should I try increasing core voltage while leaving core/memory frequencies @ stock?
 
Further testing my stability and temps on my R5 1600 OC.

I'm still running it at 3.6Ghz, 1.25v. According to CPU-Z, it's actually at 1.28v but I'm guessing that's nothing to worry about.

Stability-wise, it seems rock solid. 100% CPU load all the way through stress testing with CPU-Z and it hasn't crashed at all.

Temps during a regular bench test, like Cinebench and CPU-Z have it hitting around 72 Celsius.
Stress testing with CPU-Z, it seems to peak at 82 Celsius after 10 minutes.

Does all this seem okay?

This is with the stock cooler and stock thermal paste too. I'm thinking of taking it off and applying some artic silver since I have a tube laying around.

EDIT: After 20 minutes of CPU-Z's stress test and running at 82 degrees, my performance tanked hard. Dropping from 3320ish to 200ish.
Nothing crashed and CPU utilisation was still a consistent 100%.
Was the drop due to thermal throttling?
 

Marmelade

Member
Haven't touched it's voltages, only had it for ~ a week.

It's a Gigabyte WF 1080, Stock voltages stock frequency.

Just reseated it in its PCIE slot, reseated the 8 pin power, and rolled back to 382.53

I'd need to lower my frequencies or raise my core voltage to eliminate these artifacts & ensure stable performance right?

Update-
Didnt see any artifacts with a 100 MHz downclock on the core clock & memory clocks

Temps only hit 70 at the very end, wanna see if I can't get them above 70

update 2-
2nd run at -100 mhz DID yield artifacts, max temp of 72
Code:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/CKyy5i7.jpg[/img]

update 3-
tried uninstalling afterburner/rtss, no change.

Should I try increasing core voltage while leaving core/memory frequencies @ stock?

Don't bother really, RMA it.
I can get those same red spots if I push my core clock too high.
But yours does it @stock and even downclocked, that just shouldn't happen.
 

DasFool

Member
Hey, guys. My PC bit the bullet earlier this week and it's undeterminable whether the hard drive, power supply, or motherboard is the culprit. If it's the motherboard, I may as well build a new PC from scratch. However I am kind of at a loss on where to begin. I haven't built a PC in 6 years so most of the newer parts are foreign to me.

Basically, I'll need a new CPU, RAM, motherboard, hard drive, disk drive, power supply, case, and an install of Windows 10. I have a budget of around $500 to $700 and already have a GTX 970 as my video card. I'm looking to build a somewhat mid-range machine with capabilities in gaming and multitasking.

I had Windows 10 downloaded on my machine using a Windows 7 install previously (from their earlier promotion). Is there any way that Microsoft will allow me to grab a Windows 10 installation without paying? If anyone has any advice at all, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
I am finally done with my first gaming PC. It was scary at first, but once you start watching videos online, and asking questions, the process itself is easy. It took me longer because I was trying to get a clean cable management.

I bought the components over the spam of 3 weeks, trying to get sales and cheaper prices.

I think I put together a very decent rig for a decent price, things considered.

This is what I paid for:

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Ngw6WX
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Ngw6WX/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $185.00)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $82.00)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (Purchased For $140.00)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $147.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $40.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card (Purchased For $465.00)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $75.00)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $82.00)
Case Fan: Thermaltake - Riing 12 LED White 40.6 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $14.00)
Other: Phanteks RGB LED 4 Pin Adapter, Specified for Phanteks Cases with RGB (Purchased For $5.00)
Other: AUKEY Mechanical Keyboard with Blue Switches, 104-key RGB Backlit, Customizable with 9 Presets for PC & Mac Gamers (Purchased For $46.00)
Total: $1281.00

Some pictures of my final rig.

I am just waiting to get a new monitor, 1440p Gsync and 144hz. I will wait for a sale.

ffa7833d55ea53ba07183cda2a2ea111.jpg


d903c0c32dfa1a2c3440ad9b1adc4f3e.jpg


03d6ce90370f2684ea61c400a16e3825.jpg


1386017af2a07ddc831c9d8d4ce33622.jpg


95e808c1a8fe4f832148e0e1c85a3b6f.jpg
 

Smokey

Member
Are there anyone here who've had the Kraken X62? Whats your impression on the cooler? I am interested in for it aesthetics, but I am wondering how many people have problems with it. It has gotten great reviews, it is featured in many builds, but at the same time, there is a whole bunch of people on reddit, newegg and other places who claim the quality of the product is shoddy; between the cam software, lack of AMD ryzen brackets and incompatibilities.
It's difficult to gauge if the problems is a small sample of a large volume of products or if one can maintain that there is a real quality control issue.

I have had it for months. No issues here. Ive ran into a few issues with the software, but nothing too bad. Using it on a i7 4930k.
 

Irobot82

Member
If your monitor comes with a DP cable that should work, I'd not you should be alright with a DP cable off amazon

Does free sync work over HDMI yet?

I am getting this for my kids budget gaming PC. I assume a DP1.2 cable works or is there some kind of special DP1.2a or something? It doesn't look like this monitor comes with a DP cable.
 

CazTGG

Member
Not sure this is the best thread to ask this but i'm looking to dispose of my old PC, be it in parts or as a whole. Where would be the best place to do that (Canadian here)?
 

Megasoum

Banned
What is the smallest and cheapest USB keyboard I could buy?

My PS4 is sitting on my desk next to my PC and I play a lot of Elite Dangerous right now and using my hotas to enter system name in the galaxy map really sucks lol
 

Sami+

Member
Messing around with overclocking for the first time, i5 4690K - all I did was boost the clock ratio from 3.5 GHz to 4.2 GHz without touching voltage or anything like that. Ran Cinebench and went from 522 cb to 604 cb.

Do these temps look acceptable?
 
I am finally done with my first gaming PC. It was scary at first, but once you start watching videos online, and asking questions, the process itself is easy. It took me longer because I was trying to get a clean cable management.

I bought the components over the spam of 3 weeks, trying to get sales and cheaper prices.

I think I put together a very decent rig for a decent price, things considered.

This is what I paid for:

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Ngw6WX
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Ngw6WX/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $185.00)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $82.00)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (Purchased For $140.00)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $147.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $40.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card (Purchased For $465.00)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $75.00)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $82.00)
Case Fan: Thermaltake - Riing 12 LED White 40.6 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $14.00)
Other: Phanteks RGB LED 4 Pin Adapter, Specified for Phanteks Cases with RGB (Purchased For $5.00)
Other: AUKEY Mechanical Keyboard with Blue Switches, 104-key RGB Backlit, Customizable with 9 Presets for PC & Mac Gamers (Purchased For $46.00)
Total: $1281.00

Some pictures of my final rig.

I am just waiting to get a new monitor, 1440p Gsync and 144hz. I will wait for a sale]

Really nice and clean for a first rig. Congrats!
 
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