IIRC the chips they just officially announced were for mobile. No one is sure about the exact date, but rumors point to Oct 5 at the earliest or five months after fucking Intel who knows sadly.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
IIRC the chips they just officially announced were for mobile. No one is sure about the exact date, but rumors point to Oct 5 at the earliest or five months after fucking Intel who knows sadly.
Stabby McSter
Member
my razer mamba te has a faulty sensor and i'm tired of getting it replaced
anyone know a good replacement? similar shape and all
anyone know a good replacement? similar shape and all
Well shit I thought my CPU was kinda just getting long in the tooth (3570k) but now I suspect there might be something wrong with it.
I just use Intel XTU for a basic all cores OC from standard 3,4Ghz to 4,3Ghz but if I use the built in benchmarking I see
1. no difference in score before and after the OC (around 408 points)
2. wildly fluctuating CPU usage and clocks during the benchmarking (both during non OC and OC benchmarking)
3. Generally very low scores compared to what some people can get with the same CPU although I don't know how trustworthy these scores are.
I don't think it's anything heat related (Temps stay in an ok range). Power management should be fine too.
Anybody familiar with these symptoms? Could somebody point to a simple tool I could use to see if my OCing works at all?
I just use Intel XTU for a basic all cores OC from standard 3,4Ghz to 4,3Ghz but if I use the built in benchmarking I see
1. no difference in score before and after the OC (around 408 points)
2. wildly fluctuating CPU usage and clocks during the benchmarking (both during non OC and OC benchmarking)
3. Generally very low scores compared to what some people can get with the same CPU although I don't know how trustworthy these scores are.
I don't think it's anything heat related (Temps stay in an ok range). Power management should be fine too.
Anybody familiar with these symptoms? Could somebody point to a simple tool I could use to see if my OCing works at all?
Ted
Member
Hi again all, back to bug y'all again after a hectic couple of months at work with no time to think about building a new PC.
So, to summarise where I'm at...
Aim:
1080p, 60fps, single monitor gaming, ideally high settings, for previous and current gen games. I'd also hope to not have to upgrade immediately come the next gen of consoles.
Old parts I intend to re-use:
Monitor - 27" AOC E2727SHE
Keyboard - Off brand, mechanical
Mouse - Off brand, upright
Current Parts List:
- CPU - AMD Ryzen 1600
- GPU - GTX 1060 6GB (currently looking at the Zotac GeForce GTX 1060 6GB as it is the cheapest)
- RAM - Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
- Hard Drive - Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (would love to go SSD but I'm happy to wait re. loading times in order to put extra cash elsewhere initially)
Questions
1) ATX/M-ATX MB/case... which is a better idea for a first build? Space isn't really an issue at my desk so I guess ATX gives me more room in the case to work. Is there any other differences apart from size? ATX seems more expensive that M-ATX, I guess this is simply a side effect of the size difference? Any suggestions about what would be a good board/brand to go with for value for money?
2) What kind of wattage do I need to have plenty of safe overhead? Would something like Corsair - Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply be OK?
3) Do cases tend to come with fans or is this something I need to budget for separately?
4) What miscellaneous items (tools/wire management) are likely to add to my build cost as a first timer?
Thanks as ever!
So, to summarise where I'm at...
Aim:
1080p, 60fps, single monitor gaming, ideally high settings, for previous and current gen games. I'd also hope to not have to upgrade immediately come the next gen of consoles.
Old parts I intend to re-use:
Monitor - 27" AOC E2727SHE
Keyboard - Off brand, mechanical
Mouse - Off brand, upright
Current Parts List:
- CPU - AMD Ryzen 1600
- GPU - GTX 1060 6GB (currently looking at the Zotac GeForce GTX 1060 6GB as it is the cheapest)
- RAM - Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
- Hard Drive - Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (would love to go SSD but I'm happy to wait re. loading times in order to put extra cash elsewhere initially)
Questions
1) ATX/M-ATX MB/case... which is a better idea for a first build? Space isn't really an issue at my desk so I guess ATX gives me more room in the case to work. Is there any other differences apart from size? ATX seems more expensive that M-ATX, I guess this is simply a side effect of the size difference? Any suggestions about what would be a good board/brand to go with for value for money?
2) What kind of wattage do I need to have plenty of safe overhead? Would something like Corsair - Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply be OK?
3) Do cases tend to come with fans or is this something I need to budget for separately?
4) What miscellaneous items (tools/wire management) are likely to add to my build cost as a first timer?
Thanks as ever!
It makes little difference for a first build (or for most builds really). The main advantage of ATX is more slots & ports for devices, but that's only really handy for specific tasks or multi-card gaming. Choice of board depends on budget.
The Corsair Builder is poor. Again, this depends on budget - 450-550W would be the likely target.
Most will come with one or two, and realistically that's all you need.
A philips screwdriver, preferably one with a long shaft. Cable ties would be handy too. That's about it.
If you've got an idea of your total budget then we can advise you further
Skyfireblaze
Member
I currently run a 3570k @ 4.4ghz with 16gb DDR3 RAM and a GTX 1070 mostly playing at 1080p 74hz, originally I planned to jump on a Coffee Lake 6c/6t CPU this Fall/Winter but with the recent leak? of Ice Lake showing 8c/8t hitting mainstream next year I should probably hold out and hope that my 3570k makes it till then right?
The only game I'm really struggling with is BF1 and I know my 1070 is somewhat gimped with a 3570k but so far it works out.
I would want to spend 300€ at the very most on the CPU alone.
The only game I'm really struggling with is BF1 and I know my 1070 is somewhat gimped with a 3570k but so far it works out.
I would want to spend 300€ at the very most on the CPU alone.
Spartancarver
Member
What resolution are you playing BF1 at? I used to have issues with that game with my i5 6600K but after a BIOS update and a slight bump to the OC it runs flawlessly at 1440p + 115% render scale on all maxed settings on a GTX 1070. I cap at 60 FPS and it doesn't budge from that.
Skyfireblaze
Member
I play at 1080p and still get dips. I know a 1070 should handle the game at 1440p @ 60fps but I know the issue is my CPU as all four cores are pegged at 99% at all times during gameplay. Ivy Bridge is getting really old
Okay so I'm 90% sure this actually happened
I was woken up today by some type of crazy screeching sound coming from my PC.
What doesn't make any sense though, is that the PC was completely powered down. My speakers were off as well.
As soon as I hit the power button and turned the PC on, the noise went away.
What in the fuck?
I was woken up today by some type of crazy screeching sound coming from my PC.
What doesn't make any sense though, is that the PC was completely powered down. My speakers were off as well.
As soon as I hit the power button and turned the PC on, the noise went away.
What in the fuck?
Skyfireblaze
Member
Are you 100% sure it came from your PC and not from your speakers? It can happen when there's still residue energy in speakers. When I was a kid we had that happen with a stereo in the bedroom and it freaked the entire family out because we couldn't pinpoint the sound.
jim2point0
Banned
I wish I knew what happened, but now my PC decides to boot straight into the BIOS every time I restart. I just press F10 and enter to get out quickly, but I don't know why it happened or how to fix it.
Ted
Member
Thanks LordAlu, you guys are so cool dishing out info to us uninformed folk!! I'm sure we test your patience no end.
Fairplay, I'm not too bad at basic builds and cable management (build/fix RC planks and helis fairly often) but do get frustrated working in small spaces. It doesn't sound like a problem here though so that's good news.
Sounds like M-ATX might be a little cheaper as well so I think I'll start here and see where I get with cases. I assume I don't have to be too worried about stuff like a PSU fitting even in an M-ATX form factor?
Budget is flexible, I think I'm more interested in getting good value rather than ultimate cost. I'm not particularly flush (pesky kids!) so money is a factor but if I just have to save a little longer, I'd rather buy once if you know what I mean.
What kind of brands can I trust? I see a couple of 500w ones on Amazon for a similar price but don't recognise any names so not sure what are "good" (Aerocool and EVGA).
Brill, I guess just be rigorous at checking part descriptions is the best advice here?
Who doesn't prefer a long shaft eh!
Smutty humour aside, that sounds simple. I have most of the basic tools like that and zip ties for days because of the aforementioned RC flying things. Do I need stuff like a static band like I used to have in the early 90s when I installed a SoundBlaster in a 486?
Flexible to an extent as I can buy bits here and there but I'd like to get in for under 800 GBP if I can, less is better, more isn't insurmountable I guess is the best summary.
Thanks again for your response LA (and to all of PCGAF for tolerating me and people like me!).
Fairplay, I'm not too bad at basic builds and cable management (build/fix RC planks and helis fairly often) but do get frustrated working in small spaces. It doesn't sound like a problem here though so that's good news.
Sounds like M-ATX might be a little cheaper as well so I think I'll start here and see where I get with cases. I assume I don't have to be too worried about stuff like a PSU fitting even in an M-ATX form factor?
Budget is flexible, I think I'm more interested in getting good value rather than ultimate cost. I'm not particularly flush (pesky kids!) so money is a factor but if I just have to save a little longer, I'd rather buy once if you know what I mean.
What kind of brands can I trust? I see a couple of 500w ones on Amazon for a similar price but don't recognise any names so not sure what are "good" (Aerocool and EVGA).
Brill, I guess just be rigorous at checking part descriptions is the best advice here?
Who doesn't prefer a long shaft eh!
Smutty humour aside, that sounds simple. I have most of the basic tools like that and zip ties for days because of the aforementioned RC flying things. Do I need stuff like a static band like I used to have in the early 90s when I installed a SoundBlaster in a 486?
If you've got an idea of your total budget then we can advise you further
Flexible to an extent as I can buy bits here and there but I'd like to get in for under 800 GBP if I can, less is better, more isn't insurmountable I guess is the best summary.
Thanks again for your response LA (and to all of PCGAF for tolerating me and people like me!).
Skyfireblaze
Member
Is the battery on your mainboard still properly attached and can hold a charge?
Nope, a normal ATX PSU will fit in pretty much any desktop tower case.
It's less about brands and more about model. There's a pretty up to date tier list that can help with choosing a PSU if you want to take a look? Essentially "Tier 1" is the best and usually most expensive, with the lower tiers generally missing nice features or having lower efficiency or even using a lower quality fan. Anything not actually listed (for example, Game Max, CiT or Ace) should be avoided like the plague.
Ooh matron!
Nah. Some people still prefer to use them, but so long as you just ground yourself before hand on a radiator or something then there's no problem.
That's a decent budget.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (£183.54 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350M-A Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£64.49 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£74.58 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£82.40 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB ROG STRIX Video Card (£247.79 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Cooler Master - MasterBox Lite 3.1 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£39.98 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: EVGA - B3 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£55.97 @ CCL Computers)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£25.00 via Reddit)
Total: £773.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-18 19:20 BST+0100
Now obviously there's room to maneuver around here but I'll try to explain some things too:
- Ryzen 5 1600 is a given right now, price/performance wise, but you already know that! Gone mATX with the board, which has everything you need without being overly expensive.
- Dual channel, 3000MHz RAM. Ryzen loves RAM speed.
- You can easily fit an SSD in your budget. The large majority won't notice the difference between NVMe and SATA SSD speeds in normal use, so picking a SATA M.2 SSD is a great choice - you get fast speeds but it's super simple to install.
- Plenty of room for a storage drive too.
- A decent GTX 1060 here, but this is where things get interesting. You might be able to squeeze a 1070 in there by getting rid of the storage drive and picking a cheap case and maybe fit in a lower tier PSU, but they're also things you generally don't wanna skimp on. That would be your choice though.
- I like the MasterBox Lite 3.1, and it has four fans, but this is an entirely subjective choice.
- The EVGA B3 series has been getting pretty good reviews and is decent for the price/performance. I'd usually suggest the SeaSonic Focus Plus, but it's £80.
- Get Windows from a seller, otherwise it's £85
Frostman
Member
So I have an interesting issue.
This morning I started up my PC fine, played some Doom, no problems.
Earlier I started it up, and every time I opened MSI Afterburner one of my fans would start going mental. Running at what seemed like 100%.
I checked HWMonitor and afterburner to check the speeds of my fans, and my GPU was running fine, as was my CPU fan. I restarted went into the Bios and checked my Chassis fans and they were set to 'silent mode' as they have been for a while.
I log in and everything is fine, I open MSI Afterburner and once again a fan starts turboing. I take the window off my PC, and 100% certain it's the rear case fan. I checked the Bios again and everything appears to be ok.
So I don't know where to go from here? Any ideas? I can't really apply my OC in Afterburner anymore because the noise is ridiculous.
This morning I started up my PC fine, played some Doom, no problems.
Earlier I started it up, and every time I opened MSI Afterburner one of my fans would start going mental. Running at what seemed like 100%.
I checked HWMonitor and afterburner to check the speeds of my fans, and my GPU was running fine, as was my CPU fan. I restarted went into the Bios and checked my Chassis fans and they were set to 'silent mode' as they have been for a while.
I log in and everything is fine, I open MSI Afterburner and once again a fan starts turboing. I take the window off my PC, and 100% certain it's the rear case fan. I checked the Bios again and everything appears to be ok.
So I don't know where to go from here? Any ideas? I can't really apply my OC in Afterburner anymore because the noise is ridiculous.
RumblingRosco
Member
I have no experience with that problem whatsoever, but my first suggestion would be to uninstall Afterburner (after writing down your OC settings), then re-install it. Also, try running Afterburner without any overclock at all and see if the fan still goes crazy, to try and pinpoint it to Afterburner simply being open, or to your OC.
Killer Queen
Banned
Yeah its absolutely ridiculous. I feel like i chose the worst time to build.
Frostman
Member
Not at home at the minute, but I will do this when I get home and update you. Cheers for the response!
I put aside two pack of other brands in storage in the plan of building some more PCs, I wish I had gotten the Gskill RGB when they came out. It would be interesting to know if the increasing cost has been a factor in PC component sales or no factor at all.
Yup. Speakers were definitely powered down, as the LED light was off
I seriously have no idea what the hell happened. My computer seems fine though...
Looking to upgrade to the 8th gen CPU and want to buy everything but the CPU now.
I'm looking at SoupaSoka's reccomended high-end intel build:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/SoupaSoka/saved/FFRsJx
Goal: 1440p, 144hz gaming (and supersampled VR)
Current build
- Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI
- CPU: i5-4690k
- RAM: 16GB DDR3
- GPU: GTX 1080
- PSU: 750
What I'm looking to buy
- Mobo: MSI - Z270 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
- CPU: 8th gen CPU (picking up next month/asap)
- RAM: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
- Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler
- Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case
- Fans: be quiet! - SilentWings 3 pwm 59.5 CFM 140mm Fan (2x)
Is there anything on this list I should change?
I'm looking at SoupaSoka's reccomended high-end intel build:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/SoupaSoka/saved/FFRsJx
Goal: 1440p, 144hz gaming (and supersampled VR)
Current build
- Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI
- CPU: i5-4690k
- RAM: 16GB DDR3
- GPU: GTX 1080
- PSU: 750
What I'm looking to buy
- Mobo: MSI - Z270 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
- CPU: 8th gen CPU (picking up next month/asap)
- RAM: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
- Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler
- Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case
- Fans: be quiet! - SilentWings 3 pwm 59.5 CFM 140mm Fan (2x)
Is there anything on this list I should change?
i5-4690k to i7-4790k is a huge jump? Any idea what kind of increase I'd see framerate-wise?
Is the 8th gen not expected to be that significant an upgrade that the i7-4790k would be sufficient for 1440p, 144hz for the next 2–3 years?
To be clear, I don't have to buy any parts right now.
Hey folks,
I recently finished my schooling/nomad lifestyle and finally have started to settle down and will not be moving all the time. I also found out recently that I am about $2000 CAD richer than I thought I was (extra research assistant money coming in from my supervisor) so I want to put that into a home desktop PC for "satellite imagery analysis" work (but really mostly for gaming). Now this is not the first time I have posted in the PC building thread... in high school (2009ish) I saved up a bunch of money and "built" (NCIX did it) a gaming PC, but it is obviously way out of date now and it is stuck at my parents house 1000 miles way so not of much use haha. I also have a pretty strong laptop (MSI Ghost Pro with a 970m) that I bought about 2.5 years ago which I love but now that I am more settled I would prefer to go with the strong desktop + tiny laptop route rather than some sort of compromise. Getting tired of having to tinker with game settings to get good performance, would love to just max out settings and have 60 fps at 1080p.
Your Current Specs: I don't have a desktop but my laptop is an MSI GS60 with a 6 GB 970m, 16 GB of RAM (1600 MHz) and an Intel Core i7-4710HQ 2.5Ghz CPU
Budget: $2000 CAD (like 1500 USD)
Main Use: Gaming, some imagery analysis stuff for work (ArcGIS/ENVI/R etc.), general usage
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I would love to be able to max out games at 60 fps and 1080p and be able to do that for a couple years without having to upgrade. Example games would be graphically intensive games like Witcher 3. I also play a lot of Paradox strategy games which should not be a problem graphically but can be CPU intensive I suspect.
Looking to reuse any parts?: No
When will you build?: I have a pretty strong laptop so I can wait for the right/cheapest time. From looking at this thread it seems like prices are high at the moment?
Will you be overclocking?: No, I am not much of a tinkerer. Like to pick up and play and not worry about settings much.
I was looking at the Octo-Core, First Level build that was posted recently. That seems like the level of performance I want. Crushing 1080p games sounds right up my ally. You guys might yell at me but I think when I do this I am going to have NCIX build it for me like they did all those years ago because it worked out so well haha. Would that be the right place to start? Any major upgrades on the horizon I should wait for? As I said I am fine with my laptop for now but would like to transition to a nice small/light laptop for traveling and have a strong desktop at home sometime in the future now that I am settled down more.
ALSO: an important thing is I need to be able to connect to wifi since I don't have access to an Ethernet connection. Not sure how big of a deal that is but I remember the desktop I had built back in the day was ethernet only. I don't really play multiple shooters or anything so just need some sort of connection for downloads.
I recently finished my schooling/nomad lifestyle and finally have started to settle down and will not be moving all the time. I also found out recently that I am about $2000 CAD richer than I thought I was (extra research assistant money coming in from my supervisor) so I want to put that into a home desktop PC for "satellite imagery analysis" work (but really mostly for gaming). Now this is not the first time I have posted in the PC building thread... in high school (2009ish) I saved up a bunch of money and "built" (NCIX did it) a gaming PC, but it is obviously way out of date now and it is stuck at my parents house 1000 miles way so not of much use haha. I also have a pretty strong laptop (MSI Ghost Pro with a 970m) that I bought about 2.5 years ago which I love but now that I am more settled I would prefer to go with the strong desktop + tiny laptop route rather than some sort of compromise. Getting tired of having to tinker with game settings to get good performance, would love to just max out settings and have 60 fps at 1080p.
Your Current Specs: I don't have a desktop but my laptop is an MSI GS60 with a 6 GB 970m, 16 GB of RAM (1600 MHz) and an Intel Core i7-4710HQ 2.5Ghz CPU
Budget: $2000 CAD (like 1500 USD)
Main Use: Gaming, some imagery analysis stuff for work (ArcGIS/ENVI/R etc.), general usage
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I would love to be able to max out games at 60 fps and 1080p and be able to do that for a couple years without having to upgrade. Example games would be graphically intensive games like Witcher 3. I also play a lot of Paradox strategy games which should not be a problem graphically but can be CPU intensive I suspect.
Looking to reuse any parts?: No
When will you build?: I have a pretty strong laptop so I can wait for the right/cheapest time. From looking at this thread it seems like prices are high at the moment?
Will you be overclocking?: No, I am not much of a tinkerer. Like to pick up and play and not worry about settings much.
I was looking at the Octo-Core, First Level build that was posted recently. That seems like the level of performance I want. Crushing 1080p games sounds right up my ally. You guys might yell at me but I think when I do this I am going to have NCIX build it for me like they did all those years ago because it worked out so well haha. Would that be the right place to start? Any major upgrades on the horizon I should wait for? As I said I am fine with my laptop for now but would like to transition to a nice small/light laptop for traveling and have a strong desktop at home sometime in the future now that I am settled down more.
ALSO: an important thing is I need to be able to connect to wifi since I don't have access to an Ethernet connection. Not sure how big of a deal that is but I remember the desktop I had built back in the day was ethernet only. I don't really play multiple shooters or anything so just need some sort of connection for downloads.
RumblingRosco
Member
The Z270 motherboard won't work with the 8th gen Intel CPUs. You need to wait for the Z370 boards.
Frostman
Member
Ok, just a quick update. It worked!
Don't ask me why I didn't think of reinstalling. In hindsight, it seems like the most obvious thing
RumblingRosco
Member
Ok, just a quick update. It worked!
Don't ask me why I didn't think of reinstalling. In hindsight, it seems like the most obvious thing
Glad it worked! The most obvious solution is a wonderful thing when it works.
Gotcha. Hmm, what do you think? Should I go for the i7-4790k instead of 8th gen?
I have to give Noctua a shout out for their brackets for their cpu coolers. That was the easiest installation of an after market cooler I've ever had. Brackets were easy to install and the heatsink just melted right into the brackets with no issue.
If your focus is strictly gaming it probably is in the best interest to wait. With the rumors of the Z390 being able to handle Icelake with 8 core/16 thread cpus it doesn't make much sense to upgrade to a Z370 board. I recently replaced my 3570k with an AMD 1700 in my desktop pc but that is because I do a decent amount of productivity so the boost is nice and the upgrade cost was pretty cheap relatively speaking. Still, I'm at 3.9ghz on it and the gaming performance is pretty damn good. I have a 4670k in my home theater pc I use just for games and I think I'm going to wait instead of going for the 8700k in October. Not just for Icelake, but also Ryzen refresh in 2018 or Ryzen gen 2 . Recent gaming benchmarks have shown the Ryzen 1600 at 4ghz within 10% of the 7700k at 5ghz. Now imagine a Ryzen refresh or Ryzen Gen 2 with better performance per core or the ability to hit higher frequencies like 5ghz. Starting to think we might have to change the discussion slightly for Ryzen. It isn't that performance per core is that much weaker (I was wrong about this at first too). Just the cpus can't hit as high of a frequency. Or maybe Volta will showcase a bigger difference between these cpus, but this is still another reason to wait.
I don't see anything wrong with the 8700k as an upgrade path if you need something right away. Shame that the upgrade gets hampered by a Z370 board which won't be able to upgrade to Icelake when it seems like the Z390 will offer this upgrade path.
I know you are itching to upgrade right now...I am too (have similar cpu). Unless you absolutely don't care about having an upgrade path to Icelake I'd wait for the Z390 motherboards in 2018. Otherwise if you don't care just buy an 8700k in October and get a Z370 Board (MSI will make a Gaming Pro Carbon board I would imagine in Z370).
A 4790k isn't exactly cheap nowadays. You would be going from a 4core/4thread cpu to a 4core/8thread cpu for what...200 dollars used, 300 plus new? Dunno about that.
If your focus is strictly gaming it probably is in the best interest to wait. With the rumors of the Z390 being able to handle Icelake with 8 core/16 thread cpus it doesn't make much sense to upgrade to a Z370 board. I recently replaced my 3570k with an AMD 1700 in my desktop pc but that is because I do a decent amount of productivity so the boost is nice and the upgrade cost was pretty cheap relatively speaking. Still, I'm at 3.9ghz on it and the gaming performance is pretty damn good. I have a 4670k in my home theater pc I use just for games and I think I'm going to wait instead of going for the 8700k in October. Not just for Icelake, but also Ryzen refresh in 2018 or Ryzen gen 2 . Recent gaming benchmarks have shown the Ryzen 1600 at 4ghz within 10% of the 7700k at 5ghz. Now imagine a Ryzen refresh or Ryzen Gen 2 with better performance per core or the ability to hit higher frequencies like 5ghz. Starting to think we might have to change the discussion slightly for Ryzen. It isn't that performance per core is that much weaker (I was wrong about this at first too). Just the cpus can't hit as high of a frequency. Or maybe Volta will showcase a bigger difference between these cpus, but this is still another reason to wait.
I don't see anything wrong with the 8700k as an upgrade path if you need something right away. Shame that the upgrade gets hampered by a Z370 board which won't be able to upgrade to Icelake when it seems like the Z390 will offer this upgrade path.
I know you are itching to upgrade right now...I am too (have similar cpu). Unless you absolutely don't care about having an upgrade path to Icelake I'd wait for the Z390 motherboards in 2018. Otherwise if you don't care just buy an 8700k in October and get a Z370 Board (MSI will make a Gaming Pro Carbon board I would imagine in Z370).
A 4790k isn't exactly cheap nowadays. You would be going from a 4core/4thread cpu to a 4core/8thread cpu for what...200 dollars used, 300 plus new? Dunno about that.
Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. I think I'll end up going for the Z370 and 8700k then. There's a couple other factors involved. My friend needs a desktop as his is on its last legs...so I was going to give him my current mobo, tower, cpu and RAM when I upgraded. Also, there's something wrong with the water cooler and I'd rather not replace that if I'll be upgrading soon.
Quick question on the Z370 and 8700k. The only time I've tried to get new pc parts when they launch is with the 1080, which was a mess. Should I expect the same when the new CPU and mobo launch? If so, any tips?
RumblingRosco
Member
We can't say for sure whether it'll be chaos at the 8700k launch, but generally, CPU launches aren't hyped to the same extent as GPUs.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Hmm yeah you are right, everything I read and think about seems to make Coffee Lake a bad upgrade-point. I'm definitely not in the biggest hurry to upgrade as my 3570k is still doing okay. BF1 is like said the only game that's really troublesome but still 100% playable, just not as smooth as I like and then again I don't play it very often.
I do have the upgrade-itch as my budget would allow me a CPU-upgrade by the end of the year but I really don't want to upgrade if I can get two more cores for a similar price not all that much later. That and I hope RAM prices will eventually come down again. I wouldn't mind upgrading to Ryzen either but I still want to see how they evolve more before I consider them as I really want good IPC values too for emulators.
Seems like I can allow myself to buy 1-2 games more this fall like that too
If you want something right now it's not bad to get an 8700k. The 8700k should be the best consumer gaming cpu but it's more along the lines of Intel flubbing the motherboard situation that makes things seem bad. Now if you don't care about being able to upgrade to a future cpu in the same motherboard then it isn't a big deal.
Little Old Man
Member
How often should I apply new thermal paste to my cousin, given:
a) I've had the system for nearly a year, noctua u14s
b) it's a 6700k at stock
c) I game on the system every few days?
a) I've had the system for nearly a year, noctua u14s
b) it's a 6700k at stock
c) I game on the system every few days?
So two years after assembling this PC of mine I decided to finally get to the root of the static noise I've been hearing over my headphones when playing games.
Turns out the audio cable that ran from the I/O panel at the front on my case to the mobo was touching the GPU and PSU power cables, which was causing it all. When I rerouted them to run separately my audio was completely clean of any noise. I can't believe I put up with this for two years when it was a simple 10 minute fix away. I was even considering getting a separate sound card!
Moral of the story: cable management is not just a matter of tucking everything away nicely with cable ties! Think about which cables should be kept separately.
Turns out the audio cable that ran from the I/O panel at the front on my case to the mobo was touching the GPU and PSU power cables, which was causing it all. When I rerouted them to run separately my audio was completely clean of any noise. I can't believe I put up with this for two years when it was a simple 10 minute fix away. I was even considering getting a separate sound card!
Moral of the story: cable management is not just a matter of tucking everything away nicely with cable ties! Think about which cables should be kept separately.
opticalmace
Member
If your temps are good there's no reason to replace it. Also you should OC.
edit: wait, you want to apply thermal paste onto your cousin?
Is the CPU temp significantly warmer than before? Usually if temps start warming its a dust issue and just a clean out of the case with compressed air helps. If you don't think the thermal paste was applied properly then you can reapply it. If you have removed the heatsink then I would clean and reapply. I'm of the school though that you really shouldn't have to reapply thermal paste unless you have a temperature issue that isn't dust related.
ISee
Member
Me neither.
Little Old Man
Member
If your temps are good there's no reason to replace it. Also you should OC.
edit: wait, you want to apply thermal paste onto your cousin?
Awesome. I never actually replaced the paste ever on my old PC, but that was because the CPU cooler was too much of a hassle to take back off to even consider it anyway.
Everything runs flawlessly here, so it looks like I'm set for a long time yet.
I've had mine on for almost five years and haven't noticed any temperature increases so unless you messed something up when applying it I guess you'll be fine for a while.
FunkyLounge
Member
I really need your help and advise guys:
Air cooled Sapphire Vega 64 just came to me. Box recommends a 750w PSU, but I know that they basically always overshoot.
I have a 600w PSU - Zalman ZM600-GSⅡ. It has 84% efficiency and of couse has 2x 8-pins to connect the card. According to Tomshardware Vega 64's power peaks are 350w. Anandtech's crazy setup with this card maxes out at 470w total system consumption under FurMark.
Now my system is nowhere near their overclocked monster:
CPU - i5 6600
RAM - 16GB DDR4 2400Hz
1x HDD
1x SSD
MB - MSI Z170A PC MATE
2 case fans
84% of 600w is 504w, which should be sufficient when much more powerful overclocked system maxes out at 470w total system draw under full load.
Am I a crazy lunatic, or does this assumption and reasoning make sense? Does anybody have experience with similar setup?
Air cooled Sapphire Vega 64 just came to me. Box recommends a 750w PSU, but I know that they basically always overshoot.
I have a 600w PSU - Zalman ZM600-GSⅡ. It has 84% efficiency and of couse has 2x 8-pins to connect the card. According to Tomshardware Vega 64's power peaks are 350w. Anandtech's crazy setup with this card maxes out at 470w total system consumption under FurMark.
Now my system is nowhere near their overclocked monster:
CPU - i5 6600
RAM - 16GB DDR4 2400Hz
1x HDD
1x SSD
MB - MSI Z170A PC MATE
2 case fans
84% of 600w is 504w, which should be sufficient when much more powerful overclocked system maxes out at 470w total system draw under full load.
Am I a crazy lunatic, or does this assumption and reasoning make sense? Does anybody have experience with similar setup?
ISee
Member
I wouldn't worry too much. You are, as you already said, probably fine anyway if heavy overclocking isn't your goal. There are two reasons why they recommend 750W. 1.) To be 100% sure that it will work. 2.) PSUs work best and most efficient at around 50-60% of their pick, maximum performance. So a bronze ~80% 750W PSU is most efficient at ~ 400W, but it can easily reach up to ~600W for pick performance if needed. What does this mean for you: Your PSU can easily provide ~350W to your system and be "efficient" at it. Still there will be some instances where power draw will pick, but your PSU should be able to handle those picks up to 500W without much trouble.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
need some help. My friend has this desktop here that is not turning on:
https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-aspire-me600-ur368-core-i5-3330-3-ghz-8-gb-1-tb/specs/
He took to a local repair shop and they said it was the MOBO, all the other components are fine. They wanted $280 to replace the mOBO with an USED one. insane.
So can somebody help me and let me know which mobo I could use for this specific model?
I was wondering if it would be an easy swap, but I don't have experience with prebuilt stuff at all.
I just built my first gaming PC myself few weeks ago and I felt it was fine. I wanted to help him saving some money, but if the process is too complicated I would rather not screw up anything
so questions:
1. which mobo I could use, can you link one?
2. Is the process easy? I just remove the old one , install the new one and put the new components in? Is there anything else I need to do in terms of software tweaks to make it work?
thanks
https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-aspire-me600-ur368-core-i5-3330-3-ghz-8-gb-1-tb/specs/
He took to a local repair shop and they said it was the MOBO, all the other components are fine. They wanted $280 to replace the mOBO with an USED one. insane.
So can somebody help me and let me know which mobo I could use for this specific model?
I was wondering if it would be an easy swap, but I don't have experience with prebuilt stuff at all.
I just built my first gaming PC myself few weeks ago and I felt it was fine. I wanted to help him saving some money, but if the process is too complicated I would rather not screw up anything
so questions:
1. which mobo I could use, can you link one?
2. Is the process easy? I just remove the old one , install the new one and put the new components in? Is there anything else I need to do in terms of software tweaks to make it work?
thanks
I noticed that in a huge percentage of builds I see here use the same RAM. I used it as well in a build a few months ago.
Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
What makes this particular RAM so popular? When I chose it there were about 5-10 different brands/types that I considered and I just went with this one almost randomly. Is it just that it's less polarizing in appearance and a shade cheaper than other DDR4-3000 RAM?
Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
What makes this particular RAM so popular? When I chose it there were about 5-10 different brands/types that I considered and I just went with this one almost randomly. Is it just that it's less polarizing in appearance and a shade cheaper than other DDR4-3000 RAM?
RumblingRosco
Member
I have it also. Got 2x8 GB in June for $90 brand new simply because it was the cheapest for that capacity/speed. It wasn't even on my motherboards QVL, but it still hit 2933 MHz without any problems at all after setting the XMP profile for it on my Ryzen 1700 build. Super happy with the RAM.
JonnyDBrit
Member
You want the 70 series chipset. B75, H77, Z77, etc. Having had to hunt around for such myself recently, you'll only find them used, because it's a CPU architecture that is several generations old. However, you can find them, particularly on ebay, in the 40-100 dollar range.
Unfortunately, there's no specification on the form factor the tower accepts. Would recommend erring on the side of caution and hunting down a MicroATX board.
For the most part it will be as simple as taking the CPU out from one board and into another - treat it as you would any other PC build, so new layer of thermal paste and all - but it would be best to clear out drivers and replace them with ones specific to the new motherboard.