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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

You want the 70 series chipset. B75, H77, Z77, etc. Having had to hunt around for such myself recently, you'll only find them used, because it's a CPU architecture that is several generations old. However, you can find them, particularly on ebay, in the 40-100 dollar range.

Unfortunately, there's no specification on the form factor the tower accepts. Would recommend erring on the side of caution and hunting down a MicroATX board.

For the most part it will be as simple as taking the CPU out from one board and into another - treat it as you would any other PC build, so new layer of thermal paste and all - but it would be best to clear out drivers and replace them with ones specific to the new motherboard.

thanks man. I will pass, not sure if it is worth it, I am not that tech savvy.
 
Am I crazy thinking my PSU might be bad, causing issues with my new 1080?

My current setup's PSU is able to drive my OC'd 1700 and R9 390 with no issue.

Now with all the issues with my new 1080
- first it was artifacting at stock voltages/frequencies
- now after RMAing and receiving a new 1080, it was outputting this on 1st boot while installing drivers:
Code:
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/FTGt8pz.jpg[/IMG]
- Now after swapping my 390 in (which still works), and then swapping the 1080 back in, my monitors will receive signal from the 1080, but just a black screen, how ever it does boot, and I can log into windows (hear the sound chime a few seconds after typing in my password), but with no picture, just a black screen (which seems really odd)

I'm worried its not the 1080, but another component in my system (PSU? Mobo?). Would that make sense, given that the R9 390 had 0 issues before receiving the 1080, and continues to run fine, on my current system?

I'm considering re-building my old 2500k system and trying the 1080 on that (with my old PSU, failing that buying a EVGA G3 to check). If it worked on there, then it'd probably be my mobo, right?
 

LordAlu

Member
Am I crazy thinking my PSU might be bad, causing issues with my new 1080?

My current setup's PSU is able to drive my OC'd 1700 and R9 390 with no issue.

Now with all the issues with my new 1080
- first it was artifacting at stock voltages/frequencies
- now after RMAing and receiving a new 1080, it was outputting this on 1st boot while installing drivers:
Code:
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/FTGt8pz.jpg[/IMG]
- Now after swapping my 390 in (which still works), and then swapping the 1080 back in, my monitors will receive signal from the 1080, but just a black screen, how ever it does boot, and I can log into windows (hear the sound chime a few seconds after typing in my password), but with no picture, just a black screen (which seems really odd)

I'm worried its not the 1080, but another component in my system (PSU? Mobo?). Would that make sense, given that the R9 390 had 0 issues before receiving the 1080, and continues to run fine, on my current system?
It's possible - that power supply came out nearly a decade ago, so it's pretty old. Since you've already replaced the 1080 and it's not fixed it, you could try a new PSU, but it's also a lot of money to spend on a part that might not help. If you know anyone with a decent system you could ask to try the card in theirs and see if it does the same thing?

Can you get into safe mode with the card in / drivers installed and get an output?
 
It's possible - that power supply came out nearly a decade ago, so it's pretty old. Since you've already replaced the 1080 and it's not fixed it, you could try a new PSU, but it's also a lot of money to spend on a part that might not help. If you know anyone with a decent system you could ask to try the card in theirs and see if it does the same thing?

Can you get into safe mode with the card in / drivers installed and get an output?

I do have a friend with a similar system, I'll see if he can test it for me (think he has a 1080 already)

I can give safe mode a shot with the 1080 but I can't get the drivers installed if I can't see the screen, or are you saying boot into safe mode to get video output, and then install the drivers from there?
 

Bloodember

Member
Am I crazy thinking my PSU might be bad, causing issues with my new 1080?

My current setup's PSU is able to drive my OC'd 1700 and R9 390 with no issue.

Now with all the issues with my new 1080
- first it was artifacting at stock voltages/frequencies
- now after RMAing and receiving a new 1080, it was outputting this on 1st boot while installing drivers:
Code:
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/FTGt8pz.jpg[/IMG]
- Now after swapping my 390 in (which still works), and then swapping the 1080 back in, my monitors will receive signal from the 1080, but just a black screen, how ever it does boot, and I can log into windows (hear the sound chime a few seconds after typing in my password), but with no picture, just a black screen (which seems really odd)

I'm worried its not the 1080, but another component in my system (PSU? Mobo?). Would that make sense, given that the R9 390 had 0 issues before receiving the 1080, and continues to run fine, on my current system?

I'm considering re-building my old 2500k system and trying the 1080 on that (with my old PSU, failing that buying a EVGA G3 to check). If it worked on there, then it'd probably be my mobo, right?

How old is your PSU? If it's more than 5 years old, that's probably the problem. Plus your not getting the full wattage anymore because of age.
 
How old is your PSU? If it's more than 5 years old, that's probably the problem. Plus your not getting the full wattage anymore because of age.

At this point its had ~ 5 years of active use, so its getting up there, but if the 390 is receiving enough wattage to run shouldn't the 1080 be OK? The 390's drawing as much as 275W, 1080's only taking in 180W


Just confirmed on my friends system, same exact issue, black screen, boots into windows just fine. So the card is faulty AGAIN, incredible.

Plugged in his 1080 again to check, works perfectly.

Can't believe I'm RMAing this for the 3rd time, gonna get eBay involved if this next one doesn't work, and just go buy an EVGA lol
 

Ted

Member
Really useful information

Thanks so much for this, there's some really good stuff in there. I'll dig through that parts list and PSU link when I get some time later in the week but looking at the spec you provided that looks pretty bang on.

I'm still slightly wary of going for a smaller SSD. I get/like the idea but I know mechanical drives and SSDs are new and scary! So much reading to do.

Thanks again LordAlu, the help is really useful and much appreciated. Being new and unsure sucks but having helpful knowledgeable people around sure takes the edge off. Cheers man.

More questions in about a week no doubt!
 

Saiyan-Rox

Member
question for my UK gaffers or anyone who knows where to look to ship to the UK

Basically I have an LG ultrwide monitor and even typing on the desk makes the monitor wobble as it only has one stand and it's in the middle and it moves up and down on the sides with the slighest movement. it's not the desk or anything and I can't find anything to prop up the monitor on both sides. any ideas?

This is the monitor btw https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BFH194W/
 
Just picked up my parts

Freaking out

Im super nervous and have a bad feeling about this
Take it easy, I built my first gaming PC few weeks ago with zero experience. I did a lot of reading and watched several YouTube videos. It went actually really well, and now I have a killing machine. It is so satisfying once you are done with it
 

zeemumu

Member
Okay so I've got everything put together to the best of my ability. When I plug it in and hit the power button, Everything seems to be getting power. All of the stock cooler fans turn on, the CPU's cooling fan turns on, and the GPU cooling fan turns on, but I only seem to be getting one LED light (it's the right LED on the Cooler Master HAF 912) and the monitor doesn't turn on.

Suggestions?
 

Noll

Neo Member
Hello everyone and thanks in advance for any advice and/or directions.

I currently own a built in 2015 Clevo Gaming Laptop. The reason I opted for a Gaming Laptop instead of a Desktop is that at that time I was moving a lot, so I was open to compromise on performance/price in order to be able to bring my PC anywhere.

Now, I'm having an issue with the laptop motherboard and since it's basically impossible to get Clevo replacements in Japan, I'm considering building a Desktop PC.

The guides here are great, and I probably won't need any advice on which pieces to buy.

There's only one thing that's crucial for me and that's where I want to ask your advice: noise!
I really dislike loud desktops, so I'd love to prioritize my build in a compromise between performance and silentness.

I don't mind spending 2000 to 3000 $ for it, as long as I can get a top end PC that is as silent as possible, however, I have zero experience with water cooling system and the such.

Do you have any advice in that regards? What's the best way to achieve silentness with an high end desktop pc with that budget?


Thank you in advance for taking the time to read/reply this!
 

Bloodember

Member
Okay so I've got everything put together to the best of my ability. When I plug it in and hit the power button, Everything seems to be getting power. All of the stock cooler fans turn on, the CPU's cooling fan turns on, and the GPU cooling fan turns on, but I only seem to be getting one LED light (it's the right LED on the Cooler Master HAF 912) and the monitor doesn't turn on.

Suggestions?
Do you have your monitor plugged into the GPU and not the motherboard?
 

zeemumu

Member
Do you have your monitor plugged into the GPU and not the motherboard?

I was using an older monitor with a D-Sub connector in the back, and it only connects to the motherboard because the GPU doesn't have one. Will it absolutely only work when connected directly to my GPU? I'm using a GTX 1050 Ti and it already doesn't need the PCi-E from the power source connected into it (it doesn't even have a space for it and seems to take its power from the motherboard)

I'll give connecting it to my TV using the HDMI on the GPU a shot and see if there's any change
 
I was using an older monitor with a D-Sub connector in the back, and it only connects to the motherboard because the GPU doesn't have one. Will it absolutely only work when connected directly to my GPU? I'm using a GTX 1050 Ti and it already doesn't need the PCi-E from the power source connected into it (it doesn't even have a space for it and seems to take its power from the motherboard)

I'll give connecting it to my TV using the HDMI on the GPU a shot and see if there's any change

Your GPU needs to be connected to the monitor directly, or if you have an Intel CPU, you can completely remove the GPU and then you can have your monitor connected to your motherboard for it to work.
 
Hello everyone and thanks in advance for any advice and/or directions.

I currently own a built in 2015 Clevo Gaming Laptop. The reason I opted for a Gaming Laptop instead of a Desktop is that at that time I was moving a lot, so I was open to compromise on performance/price in order to be able to bring my PC anywhere.

Now, I'm having an issue with the laptop motherboard and since it's basically impossible to get Clevo replacements in Japan, I'm considering building a Desktop PC.

The guides here are great, and I probably won't need any advice on which pieces to buy.

There's only one thing that's crucial for me and that's where I want to ask your advice: noise!
I really dislike loud desktops, so I'd love to prioritize my build in a compromise between performance and silentness.

I don't mind spending 2000 to 3000 $ for it, as long as I can get a top end PC that is as silent as possible, however, I have zero experience with water cooling system and the such.

Do you have any advice in that regards? What's the best way to achieve silentness with an high end desktop pc with that budget?


Thank you in advance for taking the time to read/reply this!

If no one has helped with this by tomorrow, I will post a build for you. This actually makes me want to out together a near-silent mid-range build for the OP.

I will say as general advice: go for a high-end air cooler for your CPU. Get a large case with sound dampening. Load it with quiet, high-quality case fans and run them at a low RPM. Get a hyrvid GPU; these are water-cooled GPUs that are available direct from companies such as EVGA... You could also get a very high-quality air-cooled GPU, but in my personal experience the hybrid cards seem to be a bit quieter.

Oh, and try to avoid using any HDDs; get SSDs. No moving parts = essentially no noise. Be sure to get a good power supply, ideally one with a fan that doesn't need to run at low load and make sure the PSU has a high efficiency rating. The high efficiency rating means less energy lost as heat = cooler case = CPU cooler and GPU cooler have cooler ambient air to work with.
 

Bloodember

Member
I was using an older monitor with a D-Sub connector in the back, and it only connects to the motherboard because the GPU doesn't have one. Will it absolutely only work when connected directly to my GPU? I'm using a GTX 1050 Ti and it already doesn't need the PCi-E from the power source connected into it (it doesn't even have a space for it and seems to take its power from the motherboard)

I'll give connecting it to my TV using the HDMI on the GPU a shot and see if there's any change
If your GPU is in the computer you have to connect the monitor to the GPU. Ad said before if you have an Intel CPU you can pull out the GPU and then use the motherboard.
 

AmyS

Member
Hey also, for the dozen or so people including myself that actually really enjoys stereoscopic 3D, does Nvidia 3D Vision 2 do a good job with or without a Lightboost monitor?
 

zeemumu

Member
Do you have all psu cables connected? There will be two for the motherboard alone.

There's a 20 with a 4 that it was connected to all plugged into the ATX power connector on the right side of the CPU and an 8 plugged into the one near the top.

Then there's a cable connected to the USB 3.0 header and cables running from the SATA ports to my HDD and SSD, which are also connected to the psu
 

forrest

formerly nacire
Currently using an MSI GTX 970 and primarily game at 3440x1440

I've been looking at upgrading to an MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X and they are currently priced at $579.89 on Amazon.

Is it a good time to upgrade? Is this a good price for the card?

Also, saw I missed a Destiny 2 promo bundle. Any chance this comes back around before the Oct. launch?

Thanks for the help and insight!
 

Noll

Neo Member
If no one has helped with this by tomorrow, I will post a build for you. This actually makes me want to out together a near-silent mid-range build for the OP.

I will say as general advice: go for a high-end air cooler for your CPU. Get a large case with sound dampening. Load it with quiet, high-quality case fans and run them at a low RPM. Get a hyrvid GPU; these are water-cooled GPUs that are available direct from companies such as EVGA... You could also get a very high-quality air-cooled GPU, but in my personal experience the hybrid cards seem to be a bit quieter.

Oh, and try to avoid using any HDDs; get SSDs. No moving parts = essentially no noise. Be sure to get a good power supply, ideally one with a fan that doesn't need to run at low load and make sure the PSU has a high efficiency rating. The high efficiency rating means less energy lost as heat = cooler case = CPU cooler and GPU cooler have cooler ambient air to work with.


Thanks! That would be great!

Also thanks for the advices.
 

Pokemaniac

Member
Usually the cooler/fan part will contain some preapplied Thermal Paste, and usually that's all you need. Preapplied in the sense that, you only have one real shot to put it onto the CPU itself in the chipset lol. And that should usually last you a couple years or so until you have to reapply it.

As for the most defective parts...I would say RAM is the biggest culprit in terms of defects. I've gotten a shitty Ramset, I know my friends have gotten shitty RAM before. Graphics Cards and CPUs tend to be pretty well made for the most part. Motherboards...I can't speak to the quality of.
1) The things I would pay attention to when looking at a motherboard
- A few Z170 boards used DDR3. I really doubt that any Z370 boards will, but this would be the ultimate issue.
- Ports to connect displays to the iGPU. Not needed with a GPU, but in case you were testing and your testing monitor or TV only takes display port and HDMI, or DVI.
- Overclocking features and their software for fan control, RAM XMP, etc.
- Amount and type of usb ports in the back and for the front panel.
- Whether using the m.2 ports deactivates other ports, and if so which ones (usually SATA)
- Wifi on board or not, to know If I have to buy separate a wifi expansion card or a dongle.
- The number and placement of power pins for fans and pumps.
- In your case maybe a dedicated water pump header, but the one for the fans will work.
- That the Audio not badly rated for some reason.
- Gigabit Ethernet
Not deal breakers, but it would be nice:
- Bluetooth v4.0
- That it is not gaudy as fuck
- 4-pin RGB header
- Thunderbolt

2) Coolers that you buy new will come with thermal paste either already applied or in a container.

3) Motherboards. MSI on the cheaper end that just came out so there aren't even reviews yet.

Thanks for the advice.

Since my weekend driver investigation suggests that the worst thing I might run into is only being able to configure the RGB lighting and the fan mode in the cooler from Windows. Assuming that everything is remembered on reboot (which seems to be the case from what I can tell), that should be a non-issue.

With that in mind, I'll probably start buying some of the parts tonight/tomorrow, so I'll be ready when the i7 8700k and relevant motherboards are available.
 

zeemumu

Member
I disconnected the HDD, SSD, and the stock fans so just the CPU is connected to the psu

20170919_214417.jpg

It's connected to the tv with an HDMI cable running from the GPU to the tv but the tv's still blank when I power it on
 
here we go

I got my stuff


in progress


and done


Luckily everything worked this time around. I got around my nervousness pretty quickly. It definitely wasn't the first time I had made a PC, but after last year where I got a CPU+Mobo that wouldn't work, I was weary of my skill. I also did proper cable managing this time around. No issues installing software or getting to bios. Twas fun~
 
here we go

I got my stuff



in progress



and done



Luckily everything worked this time around. I got around my nervousness pretty quickly. It definitely wasn't the first time I had made a PC, but after last year where I got a CPU+Mobo that wouldn't work, I was weary of my skill. I also did proper cable managing this time around. No issues installing software or getting to bios. Twas fun~

Very nice. Always great when you turn it on and it actually works as intended.
 
Wonder if anyone can shed some light on an issue I'm having - I recently put together a new Ryzen based build with a ASRock AB350M pro4 motherboard, and used my old SSD that had Windows 10 on it and a HDD that I keep media and some games on..

Now it usually boots up perfectly fine but about every 5 to 6 days or so I get a "Can't find Operating System, press Ctrl + Alt + Del to restart" message. When I look at the boot priority list (specifically, for anyone with the same mobo, the "Hard Drive BBS Priorities" option) the SSD and HDD have swapped places, and to have to put the SSD back in at 1. When I reboot, it starts up fine and it'll keep booting fine until it happens again randomly in a few days time.

I've updated the BIOS (it's a Ryzen board after all) and it still happens and I don't think it can be a driver issue as it happens in the BIOS but I'll happily be proven wrong. Only thing I can think of is the maybe the SATA cable and the order they're plugged into the mobo, but I've copied the priority the instruction manual showed and if it was a cable/connector problem surely it would happen on every boot?

It's the sporadic nature of the the issue that has me stumped.
 
I disconnected the HDD, SSD, and the stock fans so just the CPU is connected to the psu



It's connected to the tv with an HDMI cable running from the GPU to the tv but the tv's still blank when I power it on
Happened to me before, but did you put the TV to the correct input?
Otherwise, have you tried removing just the GPU, having everything else connected normally and connecting the monitor to the motherboard video connector? That should show you something if the PC boots normally. When that is up and running you can try putting in the GPU again
 
so I'm having an issue

I can't pin programs on the Windows 10 start menu? I hate windows 10. Like, I can add an icon, but then it just disappears after a while? When I right click and press 'pin to start', it just does nothing and then closes itself?
 

LordAlu

Member
I disconnected the HDD, SSD, and the stock fans so just the CPU is connected to the psu

It's connected to the tv with an HDMI cable running from the GPU to the tv but the tv's still blank when I power it on
That 20+4-pin doesn't quite look like it's in right - the 4-pin bit looks like it isn't all the way in.

 

jrush64

Banned
Hey GAF, I need to upgrade my PC. I use my PC for game dev and sometimes gaming. This are the parts im looking at.

- Intel 7th Gen Intel Core Desktop Processor i7-7700K (BX80677I77700K) & Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler Bundle

- ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E GAMING LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI DVI M.2 ATX Motherboard with onboard AC Wifi and USB 3.1

- Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming 8G

What do you guys think?
 

LordAlu

Member
Hey GAF, I need to upgrade my PC. I use my PC for game dev and sometimes gaming. This are the parts im looking at.

- Intel 7th Gen Intel Core Desktop Processor i7-7700K (BX80677I77700K) & Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler Bundle

- ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E GAMING LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI DVI M.2 ATX Motherboard with onboard AC Wifi and USB 3.1

- Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming 8G

What do you guys think?
If you can hold out on the CPU/board for just over two weeks, the new 8th Gen Intel's will be released. :)
 
here we go

I got my stuff



in progress



and done



Luckily everything worked this time around. I got around my nervousness pretty quickly. It definitely wasn't the first time I had made a PC, but after last year where I got a CPU+Mobo that wouldn't work, I was weary of my skill. I also did proper cable managing this time around. No issues installing software or getting to bios. Twas fun~

Is that the Fractal Design G? God, it makes me wish I'd held out a few months in my hunt for a blue PC case.
 

jrush64

Banned
If you can hold out on the CPU/board for just over two weeks, the new 8th Gen Intel's will be released. :)

Dont think I'll be able to even afford it right now. I only got $1000 to spend. However will my picks work? I want to get them for next day delivery.
 

LordAlu

Member
Dont think I'll be able to even afford it right now. I only got $1000 to spend. However will my picks work? I want to get them for next day delivery.
They will assuming your case has room for the cooler height and GPU length, and your power supply has an 8-pin EPS and two 8-pin PCIe connectors.
 

CmdBash

Member

jrush64

Banned
They will assuming your case has room for the cooler height and GPU length, and your power supply has an 8-pin EPS and two 8-pin PCIe connectors.

NZXT S340 Mid Tower Computer Case, Glossy Black
EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black


This is my case and power supply. RIght now I'm using a GTX 970.

EDIT:

I'm looking at this card now.

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC2 GAMING, 11GB GDDR5X, iCX Technology - 9 Thermal Sensors & RGB LED G/P/M, Asynch Fan, Optimized Airflow Design Graphics Card 11G-P4-6593-KR

Is that a good card?
 
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