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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

The Chef

Member
Are the antennas on the network card just facing a wall? They don't do really well like that, and most newer cards include an antenna with a long wire so you can put it on your desk, etc.

The back of my machine is facing the wall yes.
Let me move it and see what happens!

Edit: You f'ing genius!
Went from 1Mb to 35Mb
 

e90Mark

Member
The back of my machine is facing the wall yes.
Let me move it and see what happens!

Edit: You f'ing genius!
Went from 1Mb to 35Mb

Awesome! You may be able to get an antenna you can connect and put up on your desk, etc if you can't keep your computer the way it is currently.

You made a good move tho going to an internal card. It will be much more reliable.
 

The Chef

Member
Awesome! You may be able to get an antenna you can connect and put up on your desk, etc if you can't keep your computer the way it is currently.

You made a good move tho going to an internal card. It will be much more reliable.

So I can get a different antenna to screw into the card like these fixed ones the card came with?
 

e90Mark

Member
So I can get a different antenna to screw into the card like these fixed ones the card came with?

Yeah, they are out there. Maybe go for an antenna like this.

61J7FCnWWYL._SL1000_.jpg
 

paskowitz

Member
Looking for a good gaming mouse for large (21 X 11 cm, 24cm spread) hands. I'm looking at the Logitech G900 but I don't need wireless and something cheaper and better for big hands would be any easy choice. Palm or finger grip.
 

Hesemonni

Banned
A msi 1080 gaming X for 400€ is pretty much a no brainer, if you don't play in 4k.

Is this from a shop? Because I'd definitely would also buy another one for that price
2nd hand cards with plenty of warranty left. 1080 is in the 400-450€ bracket, I'm optimistic I could get it for ~400€.
 

Ploid 3.0

Member
Is it weird that I can't get my Rx 480 to throttle? I've been wondering what the power limit function was for, and it seems that it's to prevent throttling, but even when I put it to a safe overclock and move the power limiter backwards it still won't throttle on benchmarks. I noticed the other bios (Cool and quiet bios using the switch on the card) throttles. Is this lack of throttling a bad thing?

Powercolor Rx 480 8gb Red Devil with the unlocked power limit bios (official, but it behaved the same on the normal bios).
 

Weevilone

Member
You are almost always better off buying a wireless access point with Ethernet ports and wiring your PC into that. We had one of our family PCs using the motherboard built-in WiFi and the antenna was a PITA.
 
I heard that the Asus PRIME B350M-A Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard doesnt support past DDR4 2133 memory? Is that true? I dont want to get it if thats the case.
 
Hello, everyone. I'm just looking for some quick advice. I'm currently using a 24" Benq 1080/60 TN monitor. I was looking at the Dell S2716DG which is already a bit above budget, but is it worth saving for a while longer to grab the 27" Acer Predator instead?

From:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/43osgh/acer_predator_xb271hu_vs_dell_gaming_s2716dg_270/

Dell=
+Less QC issues
+No obvious glow
+Lower price
-Grainy matte coating
-Less clear image as a result of the grainy matte coating
-less vibrant image as a result of he grainy matte coating
-Poor viewing angles
-overshoot ghosting which even shows up when scrolling text
-TN Gamma shift=dull and uneven colours
-Inferior image quality compared to budget TN panels released in 2010-2011
XB271HU=
-More glow and bleed
-Possible yellow/brown stains
-Higher price
-Preset green tint
+Grain free matte coating
+Sharper image due to the clear matte coating
+More vibrant image due to the clear matte coating
+Vastly superior viewing angles
+No gamma shift=far more vibrant and even colours

I owned both and am sad to report that the S2716DG sucks. Yes it has less glow and QC than the AHVA panels, but it still sucks even by TN standards compared to five year old TN panels (120hz Asus VG236H and 5x Samsung series 7-9 120hz monitors from 2010-2011). The Dell also has more noticeable ghosting since it suffers from obvious overshoot ghosting with some transitions, such as black text on white backgrounds at both 60 & 144hz. I'm not a fan of the 27" 1440p AHVA panels either, but this is due to the lack of glossy and glow free 1440p PLS panels which Samsung used in 60hz monitors a few years ago.
 

J3ffro

Member
Hello, everyone. I'm just looking for some quick advice. I'm currently using a 24" Benq 1080/60 TN monitor. I was looking at the Dell S2716DG which is already a bit above budget, but is it worth saving for a while longer to grab the 27" Acer Predator instead?

I don't have any experience with the Dell, but I've had the Acer you are looking at for a month or so.

It is the best money I have spent in some time. If you keep an eye out, you can find deals on it. I paid $600 for mine from Costco, which makes it only slightly more expensive than the Dell.
 

OraleeWey

Member
Hey guys, so these are my current specs. *Full list of hardware*.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.49 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110 94.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($104.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($104.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial BX100 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($197.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB HYBRID Video Card
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1037.12
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-28 16:58 EDT-0400


I want to upgrade the CPU, Motherboard, RAM, the SSD, and I want a modular power supply. In other words, this is what I have to start with
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU Cooler: Corsair H110 94.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB HYBRID Video Card
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $199.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-28 17:10 EDT-0400

*If I can use my CPU cooler for the new Intel socket then okay, I will, If not, I'll use something that fits the new socket.

What is my upgrade path? I should note I want to stick with an i7 and my rig will be used mostly for gaming :)

I have about $800-$1,000 for my upgrade and IDK what the new CPU's are etc. But I want to stay with Intel.

My old hardware will be used for another PC and the new hardware will go into my PC. Thanks for the help!
 
I'll be curious to see your impressions, if you plan on posting them. Mass Effect Andromeda is indeed one of the games I'm a little concerned about, though for the most part it runs decently (feels like it's above 30fps but definitely not 60fps all the time).

P.S. I feel like I may have commented on this in some random thread somewhere, but: nice name/avatar. S:AAB forever.
Okay, I've managed to get MEA fully downloaded on my R5 1600X system (even though it was installed on a drive that didn't get reformatted) and here's what I've seen at stock, with RAM only running at 2133 MHz and a GTX 970 G1 Gaming (at stock):
-The game will max out every thread on initial boot and when loading the game cold from a save.
-Unlike the i5-3570K, the R5 1600X will eventually drop core utilization to reasonable levels during the spot when I saved at Kadara (right before a Kodiak lands on a platform above the markets).

That said, I feel like the settings I use (a mix of high and medium) probably help. If I had High on all settings, I might have closer to 80-90% utilization on more cores. If you want screencaps of my settings and the test run I did (which I recorded in Afterburner), feel free to ask.

That said, jumping from a 3570K to a 1600X didn't do much for XCOM 2 (at least when on the Avenger menu), but I'm not sure if that's because of me not telling it to use more cores for shaders or because UE3 doesn't have any Ryzen optimizations.
 

MoonGred

Member
For some reason my pc is refusing to boot up. It was working fine just an hour ago. When I try to boot it up now the gpu and cpu cooling light up for a fraction before everything powers down.

It seem to be a PSU issue although I have no clue how this could've happen as there wasn't a storm or power outage or anything.

No recent swapping of parts either.
 
I heard that the Asus PRIME B350M-A Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard doesnt support past DDR4 2133 memory? Is that true? I dont want to get it if thats the case.
bios is still hit and miss on some kits for some boards. bit of a shit show atm.
Yup, RAM compatibility is total mixed bag. Just about everything will run at its default speed (2133, for example) but whether XMP profiles work is totally up in the air, depending on manufacturer and SKU.

For example, trying to run my 2666 MHz Ripjaws V via XMP sent my Asrock X370 Gaming K4 into a boot loop that I had to clear CMOS to get out of.
 

Bloodember

Member
For some reason my pc is refusing to boot up. It was working fine just an hour ago. When I try to boot it up now the gpu and cpu cooling light up for a fraction before everything powers down.

It seem to be a PSU issue although I have no clue how this could've happen as there wasn't a storm or power outage or anything.

No recent swapping of parts either.

PSU's can just fail for no apparent reason. What PSU do you have?
 

liezryou

Member
Looking for a good gaming mouse for large (21 X 11 cm, 24cm spread) hands. I'm looking at the Logitech G900 but I don't need wireless and something cheaper and better for big hands would be any easy choice. Palm or finger grip.

Try the g502, they have the exact same sensor and are pretty much the same size. However, there is no doubt that the g900 is far superior if you are an FPS esports gamer.

Is it weird that I can't get my Rx 480 to throttle? I've been wondering what the power limit function was for, and it seems that it's to prevent throttling, but even when I put it to a safe overclock and move the power limiter backwards it still won't throttle on benchmarks. I noticed the other bios (Cool and quiet bios using the switch on the card) throttles. Is this lack of throttling a bad thing?

Powercolor Rx 480 8gb Red Devil with the unlocked power limit bios (official, but it behaved the same on the normal bios).

Why are you trying to get your rx 480 to throttle? I'm not sure if not throttling is a bad thing, but if anything it should be a good sign about your thermals and cooling.

If you have a dual bios card and you don't mind flashing, try flashing your card with an rx 580 bios. You could get some decent performance boost because i'm pretty sure the red devil card is a higher binned card.

What is the best sub $200 USD 1080p monitor out there right now? Freesync is a bonus.

Edit: I found this Asus VG245H : https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236755

Do you have a costco membership or know someone that does? https://www.costco.com/Dell-SE2717HR-27"-Full-HD-Monitor.product.100337050.html . I'm pretty sure this is the exact same as the one i have (se2717h/hx), i'm not sure why it's called HR. AFAIK h vs hx is just VGA vs HDMI wire included in the box.

If it is the same one, it's a great deal because its an IPS 27" 75hz 1080p with freesync from 48-75hz for 150$ (I've heard this can be downclocked to 30-60hz but haven't done it myself). I got it myself for 120$ about 2 months ago but that sold out really fast from staples. I sit about 2 feet from my monitor and the 1080p at 27" doesn't bother me at all, but some people swear at 27" you need to have 1440p. The only downside to this monitor is that it has only one HDMI and one VGA.

EDIT: Also Dell's dead pixel policy is really stupid, they won't exchange it if it's <5 dead pixels. So make sure you check your monitor and get it exchanged at costco before your return/exchange period is over if you have any issues with dead pixels. Apparently most monitor companies have this <5 dead pixel policy, nevertheless if you have them make sure to get it exchanged from the retailer.
 

MoonGred

Member
PSU's can just fail for no apparent reason. What PSU do you have?

Yea thats what I thought.

EVGA Supernova 750W G2.

I'm about to take everything apart and check for fault parts, so far I've removed the gpu and it's still having the same problem. It seems to be drawing power for a split second before powering down.
 
It shows up to 3200 Ram.

Here's the specs: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-B350M-A/specifications/

A quick google search would have answered your question, which is what I did.

Theres just a lot of people saying it doesnt work right on the reviews
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132966

people saying stuff like "won't autodetect RAM speed so everything is 2133mhz unless you change this manually"

and "Board isn't stable with even the default BIOS settings."

or " Memory speeds won't go higher than 2133 ( i have corsair lpx 3000)"

Im kinda worried by all these negative reviews and am thinking of getting the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard instead, seems to get better reviews with little issues

Yup, RAM compatibility is total mixed bag. Just about everything will run at its default speed (2133, for example) but whether XMP profiles work is totally up in the air, depending on manufacturer and SKU.

For example, trying to run my 2666 MHz Ripjaws V via XMP sent my Asrock X370 Gaming K4 into a boot loop that I had to clear CMOS to get out of.

do you think the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 wouldnt have this issue?
 
do you think the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 wouldnt have this issue?
I dunno. RAM compatibility is a total crapshoot because it's either AMD or the mobo vendor doing the testing and they can only test so many RAM sticks so fast. Supposedly there's a big RAM compatibility AGESA update coming in a month or two, but until then, just deal with it or try to enter the timings in manually.
 

Bloodember

Member
Theres just a lot of people saying it doesnt work right on the reviews
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132966

people saying stuff like "won't autodetect RAM speed so everything is 2133mhz unless you change this manually"

and "Board isn't stable with even the default BIOS settings."

or " Memory speeds won't go higher than 2133 ( i have corsair lpx 3000)"

Im kinda worried by all these negative reviews and am thinking of getting the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard instead, seems to get better reviews with little issues



do you think the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 wouldnt have this issue?
The Bios's are apparently very finicky with RAM right now. It will most likely be fixed eventually, so you may have to just use RAM at slower speeds until it is fixed or find a board that is doing better in the Bios and RAM department.
 

liezryou

Member
Theres just a lot of people saying it doesnt work right on the reviews
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132966

people saying stuff like "won't autodetect RAM speed so everything is 2133mhz unless you change this manually"

and "Board isn't stable with even the default BIOS settings."

or " Memory speeds won't go higher than 2133 ( i have corsair lpx 3000)"

Im kinda worried by all these negative reviews and am thinking of getting the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard instead, seems to get better reviews with little issues



do you think the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 wouldnt have this issue?

Its not that specific motherboard thats the problem, its the chipset and BIOS issues. As other people have mentioned right now its a crapshoot, you may be able to get your RAM to run at advertised speeds or you may not. The only way to guarantee is by buying off the QVL of any motherboard and even then you may face some issues.
 

Ploid 3.0

Member
Why are you trying to get your rx 480 to throttle? I'm not sure if not throttling is a bad thing, but if anything it should be a good sign about your thermals and cooling.

If you have a dual bios card and you don't mind flashing, try flashing your card with an rx 580 bios. You could get some decent performance boost because i'm pretty sure the red devil card is a higher binned card.

I was just trying to understand the purpose of the power limit slider, especially since I flashed the power level unlock bios. Seeing my card wouldn't throttle, even if I put it in the negative power limit (though I only tried -10%), it made me think something was going on, or that both performance and unlocked bios is set to never throttle, even if it needs to for safety. The overclock videos I see show Rx 480s throttling in Firestrike if they don't raise the powerlevel to at least 20%.

I have a powercolor rx 580 8gig Red Devil bios saved (the cool and quiet bios, lower clock for safety), but I'm waiting to see how the Rx 480s with 580 bios do over time. I really like that it seems more efficient with wattage, but I have a feeling with the 580 bios, those sensors may be reading information wrong on the 480s, it seems too good to be true (guy playing Watch Dogs 2 barely going to 90 watts at times). I can get to 1400MHz vs stock 1330, but I'd rather have it slightly undervolted at 1360 mhz and very quiet.
 
Hey guys, so these are my current specs. *Full list of hardware*.




I want to upgrade the CPU, Motherboard, RAM, the SSD, and I want a modular power supply. In other words, this is what I have to start with


*If I can use my CPU cooler for the new Intel socket then okay, I will, If not, I'll use something that fits the new socket.

What is my upgrade path? I should note I want to stick with an i7 and my rig will be used mostly for gaming :)

I have about $800-$1,000 for my upgrade and IDK what the new CPU's are etc. But I want to stay with Intel.

My old hardware will be used for another PC and the new hardware will go into my PC. Thanks for the help!

Yo, tight GPU brother. Because of that, I'm going to recommend you focus on the top end of that budget. If you're going to have a monster card like that, you should compliment it with top parts.

That cooler fits pretty much everything so you're good there.

CPU: 7700k (~$340 but $299 in-store at MicroCenter if there's one near you)
Mobo: I'm partial to the ASUS Maximus line so I'd recommend the Code (~$300)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LED (16GB for $139 at Amazon)
SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2 NVMe ($247)

That's $1026. And a serious fucking machine.

If I was you I'd ditch that case and get something a little more open to show off all that gear but that's just me :)
 

liezryou

Member
I was just trying to understand the purpose of the power limit slider, especially since I flashed the power level unlock bios. Seeing my card wouldn't throttle, even if I put it in the negative power limit (though I only tried -10%), it made me think something was going on, or that both performance and unlocked bios is set to never throttle, even if it needs to for safety. The overclock videos I see show Rx 480s throttling in Firestrike if they don't raise the powerlevel to at least 20%.

I have a powercolor rx 580 8gig Red Devil bios saved (the cool and quiet bios, lower clock for safety), but I'm waiting to see how the Rx 480s with 580 bios do over time. I really like that it seems more efficient with wattage, but I have a feeling with the 580 bios, those sensors may be reading information wrong on the 480s, it seems too good to be true (guy playing Watch Dogs 2 barely going to 90 watts at times). I can get to 1400MHz vs stock 1330, but I'd rather have it slightly undervolted at 1360 mhz and very quiet.

Uhm there's something shady about that video. He's running at 100% load, while the fan is spinning at only 15-20% and his temps are 55C only. Never mind, as you mentioned, the ridiculously low wattage. I wouldn't trust some random guy's video on youtube man.

Also what voltage are you running at for each clock and what are your temps like? Are you using wattman or some other program? I've been wanting to test how high i can push my 4gb rx 480 and lower voltages/temps but i haven't really had the time.
 

OraleeWey

Member
Yo, tight GPU brother. Because of that, I'm going to recommend you focus on the top end of that budget. If you're going to have a monster card like that, you should compliment it with top parts.

That cooler fits pretty much everything so you're good there.

CPU: 7700k (~$340 but $299 in-store at MicroCenter if there's one near you)
Mobo: I'm partial to the ASUS Maximus line so I'd recommend the Code (~$300)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LED (16GB for $139 at Amazon)
SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2 NVMe ($247)

That's $1026. And a serious fucking machine.

If I was you I'd ditch that case and get something a little more open to show off all that gear but that's just me :)

So, it should look like this?

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VK8tBP
 

Mozendo

Member
I want to upgrade the CPU, Motherboard, RAM, the SSD, and I want a modular power supply. In other words, this is what I have to start with
I'd go with something like this

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($338.34 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270-HD3P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($121.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($114.79 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($246.98 @ NCIX US)
Total: $821.60
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-28 22:49 EDT-0400
 
I tried googling for this, but could only find really old forum posts, so im not sure they apply nowadays: is it possible for a bad/faulty cpu to damage other components, mainly the mobo?
 

Ploid 3.0

Member
Uhm there's something shady about that video. He's running at 100% load, while the fan is spinning at only 15-20% and his temps are 55C only. Never mind, as you mentioned, the ridiculously low wattage. I wouldn't trust some random guy's video on youtube man.

Also what voltage are you running at for each clock and what are your temps like? Are you using wattman or some other program? I've been wanting to test how high i can push my 4gb rx 480 and lower voltages/temps but i haven't really had the time.

He could be using watercooling or something, also some people had problems getting fan controls, display ports not working, and so on with the 580 bios on Rx 480. The wattage showing lower than stock Rx 480 bios is normal. It's the main reason I've been considering it since I can hit 1400MHz without it. https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...-to-saphire-rx580.232489/page-22#post-3644531

My temperatures are pretty low. I use Afterburner now, -60mv (default auto is 1150 in wattman so I guess that's where its base is), +0 power limit with 1360MHz. Temperature stays at the mid 60s at worst, fan can get up to 70% but usually I stay around 60%. Before when I used Wattman I had 1.050 on the 7th and 6th clock stage with stock 1330MHz. I could get stable at 1020mv but just put it up to 1050 since it didn't make much difference.

I stopped using Wattman because I wanted to save profiles.
 

IC5

Member
Theres just a lot of people saying it doesnt work right on the reviews
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132966

people saying stuff like "won't autodetect RAM speed so everything is 2133mhz unless you change this manually"

and "Board isn't stable with even the default BIOS settings."

or " Memory speeds won't go higher than 2133 ( i have corsair lpx 3000)"

Im kinda worried by all these negative reviews and am thinking of getting the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard instead, seems to get better reviews with little issues



do you think the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 wouldnt have this issue?

A. In my experience, Asus boards are often more picky about RAM choice, than other brands. AMD or Intel.

B. Is your Corsair RAM on the official list for that Asus board? If is, you should be fine. However, do some research. Because it sounds like there may be people with approved RAM, who are still having problems.

Gigabyte tends to be less picky about RAM. but right now, Ryzen chipsets are immature. Chances of successfully using off list RAM in any Ryzen board, are low.

If you want to transplant RAM you already have, to a Ryzen board, buy a board which has your RAM on the approved/tested list. Or ask in computer forus if anyone is successfully using your exact RAM model with XMP on a Ryzen board. And which board that is.
 

longdi

Banned
Looking for a good gaming mouse for large (21 X 11 cm, 24cm spread) hands. I'm looking at the Logitech G900 but I don't need wireless and something cheaper and better for big hands would be any easy choice. Palm or finger grip.

I just got the Corsair scimitar Pro, and i like it over my long serving G700s. Nice round humped back, very comfortable for palm gripping. I want the side buttons, not for gaming but for desktop use, needed as many or more buttons than what G700s provided.

I advise getting the Pro version as it fixes the niggles of the older one, most important being the onboard memory to store profiles. It means i can remove their CUE software which is problematic.
 

That's what I'd go with.

Best price for Code is $283 at Compsource, FYI: http://www.compsource.com/ttechnote.asp?part_no=ROGMAXIMUSIXCODE&vid=46&src=F

One note: I said this before and some guy got an island's-full of sand in his vagina but those EVGA PSUs have an unsettling number of reviews saying they're relatively loud. I was originally going to buy the same one, specifically for the look. I decided to stick with the brand I've always used which is Corsair and now my new PSU is a 750RMi

Since you've got the EVGA for $109 you can get the Corsair 750RMx for the same price (newegg) so as not to keep going over budget.

To be clear: I'm not telling you the EVGA PSUs are bad, or that yours will definitely be loud, or anything like that; just that reviews on multiple sites and owners at the official EVGA forums have commented on it.

Last thing: totally optional but I highly recommend de-lidding (and re-lidding) the CPU. It makes a difference. Rockitcool de-lidding and re-lidding kit is $38. First time doing it and it was as easy as hell. Use some Collaborative Liquid Ultra (~$13) on the die, put it back together using gasket maker as adhesive ($7.49), hook everything up and then for god's sake overclock the hell out of it and send us some numbers!


Why have a cheapo motherboard in the system he's running? Especially if it stays within the top-end of the budget?

Maximus IX Code is a real gaming motherboard. And the looks aren't even in the same ballpark, IMO


 

paskowitz

Member
Try the g502, they have the exact same sensor and are pretty much the same size. However, there is no doubt that the g900 is far superior if you are an FPS esports gamer.

Looks like a slide option. I'll probably get the monochrome version.

I just got the Corsair scimitar Pro, and i like it over my long serving G700s. Nice round humped back, very comfortable for palm gripping. I want the side buttons, not for gaming but for desktop use, needed as many or more buttons than what G700s provided.

I advise getting the Pro version as it fixes the niggles of the older one, most important being the onboard memory to store profiles. It means i can remove their CUE software which is problematic.

I've tried this mouse and love the shape, but the side buttons where a deal breaker. Too easy to accidentally hit.
 

Mozendo

Member
Why have a cheapo motherboard in the system he's running? Especially if it stays within the top-end of the budget?
Diminishing returns is one, the motherboards will perform about the same, he'll get a slightly higher OC but that's it, speaking from someone who has an Asus Maximus MoBo.

He could also use the extra money to buy more storage, peripherals like headphones, save for future upgrades, etc.

Maximus IX Code is a real gaming motherboard. And the looks aren't even in the same ballpark, IMO

Any Z270 is as much as a gaming motherboard as the Maximus line. And if he doesn't like the look there's other motherboards in the $115-$180 that he can choose from. $300 is way too much.
 
Diminishing returns is one, the motherboards will perform about the same, he'll get a slightly higher OC but that's it, speaking from someone who has an Asus Maximus MoBo.

He could also use the extra money to buy more storage, peripherals like headphones, save for future upgrades, etc.



Any Z270 is as much as a gaming motherboard as the Maximus line. And if he doesn't like the look there's other motherboards in the $115-$180 that he can choose from. $300 is way too much.

It's $283 :)

But seriously, it looks much better and has more features - that's why it costs that much.

Anyway, not saying your option is wrong but you are talking about the Code being "too much" for a system with like a $1200 video card. And it doesn't sound like he's penny-pinching.
 

longdi

Banned
Looks like a slide option. I'll probably get the monochrome version.



I've tried this mouse and love the shape, but the side buttons where a deal breaker. Too easy to accidentally hit.

So far im not getting accident hits even in gaming FPS & RTS. I just relax my thumb over them and let my palm control things, because of its shape, i can do so.

With G700s, i have to bend my thumb inwards to control it. I tried G600, that was a no-go because its back cut off with a hard angled plastic, ouch!

Naga while also comfortable (and comes with tilt scrolling!), its side buttons are too protruded and it was the only mmorpg mouse that i accidentally hit the side buttons, totally destructive.

just my 2c experience.
 
Try the g502, they have the exact same sensor and are pretty much the same size. However, there is no doubt that the g900 is far superior if you are an FPS esports gamer.



Why are you trying to get your rx 480 to throttle? I'm not sure if not throttling is a bad thing, but if anything it should be a good sign about your thermals and cooling.

If you have a dual bios card and you don't mind flashing, try flashing your card with an rx 580 bios. You could get some decent performance boost because i'm pretty sure the red devil card is a higher binned card.



Do you have a costco membership or know someone that does? https://www.costco.com/Dell-SE2717HR-27"-Full-HD-Monitor.product.100337050.html . I'm pretty sure this is the exact same as the one i have (se2717h/hx), i'm not sure why it's called HR. AFAIK h vs hx is just VGA vs HDMI wire included in the box.

If it is the same one, it's a great deal because its an IPS 27" 75hz 1080p with freesync from 48-75hz for 150$ (I've heard this can be downclocked to 30-60hz but haven't done it myself). I got it myself for 120$ about 2 months ago but that sold out really fast from staples. I sit about 2 feet from my monitor and the 1080p at 27" doesn't bother me at all, but some people swear at 27" you need to have 1440p. The only downside to this monitor is that it has only one HDMI and one VGA.

EDIT: Also Dell's dead pixel policy is really stupid, they won't exchange it if it's <5 dead pixels. So make sure you check your monitor and get it exchanged at costco before your return/exchange period is over if you have any issues with dead pixels. Apparently most monitor companies have this <5 dead pixel policy, nevertheless if you have them make sure to get it exchanged from the retailer.

Unfortunately I do not have a Costco membership, plus 27" is probably too big for me since I'll be fairly close to the screen. 24" is probably the sweet spot.
 
Is it worth it to save $50 to pick i5 6600 instead of 7600?

Also, would a Dazumba casing PSU (450W) sufficient for a i5 6/7600 & and gtx 1060 combo? The other option is Hexa +400.
 

ISee

Member
Is it worth it to save $50 to pick i5 6600 instead of 7600?

Also, would a Dazumba casing PSU (450W) sufficient for a i5 6/7600 & and gtx 1060 combo? The other option is Hexa +400.

Theoretically even 400W should be enough for an i5 6600/gtx 1060 combo. So, if the PSU is able to hold and deliver 450W you're fine. But in general; going with a good brand instead of a cheap one is the better idea.

If you're going for the h270/b250 chipset instead of the h170/b150 I'd take the 7600. This way you'll get native usb 3.1 support without having to deal with an external mb chip for that (and some other minor new features). You'll also get native support for ddr4 2400 mhz (instead of just 2133mhz). Not an enormous difference on its own, but when paired with the extra 200mhz CPU clock speed you'll get a noticeable boost for gaming. If you, on the other side, plan for the h170/b150 chipset, take the cheaper 6600 and the 2133mhz ddr4 ram (2400 won't work here). Not worth spending extra $50 for just 200mhz more clock speed, imo.
 
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