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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
Everdred
Member
It wasn't doing it before the new card, the reason I did a RMA was because the last card did the weird color thing and then when I reset the PC wouldn't display output anymore.
The 980 had a required 500w and the TI has a required 600w but I do have a 750w. I've disconnected a HDD and DVD drive and am about to test the system after freeing up the few watts but I doubt it's going to help.
Are you sure all the connections from the PSU to the GPU are secure? A 980Ti should be fine with a 750W, unless it's like ten years old and is using outdated tech.
EDIT: Does this help https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/1007356/msi-gtx-1080-ti-sudden-pc-shut-off/?offset=3
dcx4610
Member
750w should be fine unless you have a power hungry CPU or a ton of hardware connected. It's possible that even though the power supply is rated at 750, it may not be working properly. I've had that happen before. It was fine under low load but powered off or froze when gaming.
Everdred
Member
I'll try swapping some different power cables like suggested in the link. The PSU isn't modular but there are some extra PCI-E cables unused.
The screen goes black and the sound buzzes quick but everything still has power.
Nothing in my system is overclocked so I would think it's enough.
Disconnecting peripherals didn't do anything, didn't think it would but trying anything.
dcx4610
Member
Power supply, bad video card or drivers. I'd do a clean driver install if you haven't yet.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Maybe that stuff they make to cover up small scratches on cars.
On an unrelated note, and in response to a user from a few pages back asking if they should get a SSD: I just want to say that in my humble opinion anyone building a computer today should have at least one solid state disk, at least a low capacity one for OS and programs but depending on your budget get the biggest size you can.
They are affordable, fast, silent, use little power and their physical size makes them easier to install and allows you to get a smaller case if you want to build something more compact.
Bubba_Sparks
Member
Well, it's not finished yet, but all that remains is the GPU (1080 Ti) and a new monitor (AOC AGON)!
(Sorry about pic quality)
Specs are:
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass
Motherboard: ASUS MAXIMUS IX Hero
CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k @ 5Ghz
Cooler: Corsair H100i V2
RAM: 16Gb G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3200 Mhz DDR4
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 250 Gb - probably add a NVME drive at some point -
HDD: Seagate 2Tb 7200 RPM
PSU: EVGA SuperNova G2 650w 80+ Gold Fully Modular
To come:
GPU: nVidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti (don't know which make yet)
Monitor: AOC Agon 27' 1440p 165Hrz IPS w/ G-SYNC
(Sorry about pic quality)
Specs are:
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass
Motherboard: ASUS MAXIMUS IX Hero
CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k @ 5Ghz
Cooler: Corsair H100i V2
RAM: 16Gb G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3200 Mhz DDR4
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 250 Gb - probably add a NVME drive at some point -
HDD: Seagate 2Tb 7200 RPM
PSU: EVGA SuperNova G2 650w 80+ Gold Fully Modular
To come:
GPU: nVidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti (don't know which make yet)
Monitor: AOC Agon 27' 1440p 165Hrz IPS w/ G-SYNC
ShadowKingpin
Member
Does anyone know of a good case with tempered glass that would fit the Noctua NH D-15?
ChoklitReign
Member
I need help installing a 212 EVO cooler on a Ryzen CPU! I can't get the screws on the bracket to go down through the black sockets on the motherboard, and the screws are too short to go straight down without the sockets. I ordered the cooler bracket from Cooler Master as an adapter, but it frankly looks just like the original bracket. How do I screw this on a B350 motherboard?
Everdred
Member
I did a full windows install.
I've put my old 580 GTX in and it's running like a champ. Played a couple hours of Overwatch with no problems. It's tied to the 980TI for sure, just don't know if it's a bad card or a power issue. I'll contact EVGA support and see what they say.
opticalmace
Member
I need help installing a 212 EVO cooler on a Ryzen CPU! I can't get the screws on the bracket to go down through the black sockets on the motherboard, and the screws are too short to go straight down without the sockets. I ordered the cooler bracket from Cooler Master as an adapter, but it frankly looks just like the original bracket. How do I screw this on a B350 motherboard?
Your pics aren't working, but is this what the adapter looks like (it should)?
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kgLzd6
CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler ($158.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.59 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($219.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card ($778.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case ($200.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $2005.31
This is what I came up with, plan to use with 55" KS 8000 until 4k monitors become cheaper. Will wait for i9 line up to see how much it costs, but budget is 2000$.
CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler ($158.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.59 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($219.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card ($778.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case ($200.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $2005.31
This is what I came up with, plan to use with 55" KS 8000 until 4k monitors become cheaper. Will wait for i9 line up to see how much it costs, but budget is 2000$.
ChoklitReign
Member
WTF. Is this gonna be a problem? (there's a gold part missing)
I "solved" my cooler problem. I forgot about the standouts, but when I installed it, the cooler could shake side to side, and when I moved it upright the whole damn thing came off the CPU! So I just used the stock cooler which reviews say is good.
I swear my PC was powered fine so either it will boot or somehow the ATX connector fell off.
What a nightmare this has been. It was easier the first time!
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Keep in mind i9 will use new socket.
But if you decide on this setup, and this is a foreword/warning: I'm going to try and convince you to spend more money. Ready?
You have top components all over the place, so why an i5? Granted, at the price you're listing for the 7600k, a 7700k is probably ~$90 more (though I haven't checked prices that recently and I believe there is still a $299.99 in-store deal at MicroCenter, if you happen to have one around you), but then this is a 2000-dollar machine.
On a similar note: I looked out of curiosity and, as an example, a MSI 1080Ti Seahawk is $799 - $20 more than what you're paying for that FTW3. You've got a hybrid cooler for CPU; I'd consider matching it with a hybrid GPU, though not necessarily the Seahawk. For such a small increase in price, the reduction in noise alone is worth it. Not to mention the performance and lower temps.
If you're still with me and still feeling adventurous, I totally recommend de-lid/re-lid to replace factory thermal paste on the 7700k with some liquid metal ($38 for RockItTools and easy as hell; $13 for liquid metal). With a X62 that could probably run 5Ghz just for like gaming sessions or something.
I'm just saying: you're basically going all-out, so why not go all-out. Marginal increase for better performance right away and slightly better future-proofing as time goes on.
Now, you could do absolutely none of this and still have an awesome rig
Either way, best of luck.
opticalmace
Member
That's normal.
New Video card installed, buzzing/whining noise now seems to be gone. I had a pretty big problem in that while my 7870 had a little room to spare, the RX 580 was an inch or so longer..Couldn't fit it in because the HDD housing was in the way. Tried to Macgyver it, ended up going Jack the Ripper instead and basically mangled the top 2 (of 6) bays, moved the HDD down to the 2nd last and fit the card in with a little room left.
FFXIV Stormblood benchmark with my old 7870
1080p Maximum settings - Score: 5551
New RX 580
1080p Maximum settings - Score: 10058
FFXIV Stormblood benchmark with my old 7870
1080p Maximum settings - Score: 5551
New RX 580
1080p Maximum settings - Score: 10058
That would be pin 20:
Pin 20 used to deliver -5 V to the ISA bus back in the day. Since the ISA bus was superceded by the PCI bus around 1993 very few power supplies bother hooking it up these days.
Ploid 3.0
Member
I'm loving rx 480 and the 580s. People are able to edit the memory timings like cpu ram on these things. I run that Stormblood benchmark a lot since it's so fast to start it. I spent so much time messing around with this card, just for fun and it's interesting. I'm past the point of worrying about messing something up, I doubt I will unless sensors read wrong. 11196 was my top in Stormblood bench on max 1080p so far. Memory gives such a boost to the Polaris cards. I can probably try upping the memory some more, no errors at 2125MHz. 233.5 GB/s in OclMemBench average (272gbs bandwidth in gpuz reading). I have to stop and start playing games again, though I feel trying to get higher numbers are more interesting right now. Though I'm not going to touch liquid cooling.
Also I did the same thing to my case for my 480 haha. There was no way I wasn't going to fit my card in and waiting on a new case. I'm still getting a bigger case, but I'm in no rush now. I did a good cut and everything is fine. Thinking about getting that SilverStone RL06 Pro due to the Gamernexus case comparisons. Great airflow.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Updated to the most recent, tweaked my OC, tried turning some things off. This is fucking bullshit. I've made no significant changes to my PC and games like Battlefield 1 now have unavoidable sporadic stuttering that I've never had to deal with. What the fuck?
Judging by the people's comments in that PC thread, I shouldn't be able to build *this, but I did. Building a PC can be intimidating for new comers but with the internets and forums, there is so many helpful people and resources. PC building and and gaming also are nowhere as complicated as long ago.
I feel like I'm not done though. I want to add more fans. I have to figure out where.
*
I feel like I'm not done though. I want to add more fans. I have to figure out where.
Is there a reason you didn't go for the i7? Seems strange that you went for the ti but didn't go all the way with the CPU.
Kinda encouraging me to build it myself. I was planing on having the place set it up for me and I just install windows.
ColdDeckEd
Member
How about going sleeved cables? They can add alot to the asthetic.
JonnyDBrit
Member
New case supposedly arrives today. Unfortunately my options were limited, but the Kolink Aviator Blue didn't look too bad, and reviews actually seem to be pretty favourable of it, unlike say, the Bitfenix NEOS. Kinda curious to see if I can take the 'door' on it off, since I honestly find it looking better without it.
Otherwise, if the apparent depth is correct too, that should be good for me. I have the current case seated on a TV standard, and while it mostly rests fine, the chassis beyond the legs does have to overhang, and it doesn't leave too much room against the wall. The Aviator is, if I've read the measurements right, 9cm shorter in depth, so that would be a definite difference.
Otherwise, if the apparent depth is correct too, that should be good for me. I have the current case seated on a TV standard, and while it mostly rests fine, the chassis beyond the legs does have to overhang, and it doesn't leave too much room against the wall. The Aviator is, if I've read the measurements right, 9cm shorter in depth, so that would be a definite difference.
Jeff Stephen
Member
Can anyone recommend a low power 120GB or less SSD for a notebook? I'm not looking to pay more than $100 since it'll be used for web browsing and the occasional office use.
GeordieMark
Member
That's beautiful. Really nice work.
Would love a little feedback on my new computer just bought the parts and curious what you gus thought
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fM8nhq
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($333.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($182.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($132.71 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Founder Edition Video Card ($699.99 @ Amazon)
Case: DIYPC - Zondda-W ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.88 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fM8nhq
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($333.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($182.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($132.71 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Founder Edition Video Card ($699.99 @ Amazon)
Case: DIYPC - Zondda-W ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.88 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
D:
I have to ask but how good of a deal is $159.99 for 525GB of a SSD from a well-known brand? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820156151
Because I don't want to use it for the OS but also to store my most played online games in it.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Gave it a shot. Rolled back drivers. Turned off OC. Complete disabled/uninstalled game mode and xbox bar related features included in the Windows 10 creators update. Barely any change, intermittent microstutter remains.
No fucking idea what's causing this issue and it's pissed me right off. Such is the nightmare of trying to diagnose a hardware/software issue on PC. It could be something like an issue with my CPU, RAM, or GPU (fuck knows which). It could be issues with drivers. It could be issues with Windows 10 updates. Who the fuck knows, because I don't and I'm unlikely to find out.
It hardly makes games unplayable. Battlefield 1 is still performs incredibly well. But the microstutter is completely new and not welcome. I hate having performance/frame issues where I cant identify the problem and at least acknowledge if a solution exists or not.
As a side, Witcher 3 with grass tweaks is also fucked. This happened shortly beforehand actually, and seemed very unusual. Ultra settings for grass draw distance is doubled in my ini/cfg file, and is now basically unplayable due to constant microstutter as if the CPU can no longer handle the asset load. Reducing to standard ultra is fine and microstutter free, but yeah. Used to play with tweaks constantly, now I can't.
Piece of shit hardware!
EDIT: Going by the Nvidia forums and Microsoft helpdesk I'm not the only one who has noticed performance issues after the Creators Update, in particular frame loss and stuttering. Thanks, Microsoft.
The Hamburglar
Banned
Will coffee lake offer much improvements or just another skylake kabylake situation again.
Bony Manifesto
Member
Have you turned off 'full screen optimisations' in compatibility options for the apps you're having problems with? I was having terrible stuttering and tearing problems with G-Sync in a lot of games after the Creator's Update, and that was what fixed it for me.
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
Wow. Is this the way it's supposed to be done with any GPU/PSU? I've been using one cord for the job all this time.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Case is here. Nervous and excited at the same time for this. Probably gonna be minimal on cable management for the time being - just want to get everything in there!
It's not that amazing a deal but with the promo code it's still pretty good.
This was the 1080 I bought for my build 1 or 2 pages back. $430 seemed like a pretty good price so I thought I'd share.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/302026275977
http://www.ebay.com/itm/302026275977
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Just gave this a shot in Battlefield 1 and it seems to have made a very positive impact, maybe remedying the microstutter entirely. Witcher 3 is still fucked with tweaks, but that seems to be more of a game problem than anything.
Cheers mate
EDIT: Never mind, still unusual stuttering issues in BF1. It's definitely seems like a CPU stalling issue, like it's struggling with asset or computation load, usually when a lot of shit is going on.
Bubba_Sparks
Member
Awesome build! Looks fantastic!
Crap, that's a really good price. What are the odds of buying a busted GPU?
RumblingRosco
Member
Well, now I'm wondering about a an aftermarket cooler for the Ryzen 1700. If I want to overclock to, say, 3.6 GHz, is it reasonable to use the included cooler? Should I use my Hyper 212+ instead? Or is water cooling the way to go, and if so, what's a simple water cooling setup? Never tried water cooling before.
Looking at reviews, it seems like air cooling is fine for a 3.6 GHz overclock and water cooling is only really needed for 3.8+. However, if water cooling is quieter and keeps it all at a lower temp, I think I'd prefer to go that route. Any suggestions? I don't care about aesthetics even remotely, just function and price.
Looking at reviews, it seems like air cooling is fine for a 3.6 GHz overclock and water cooling is only really needed for 3.8+. However, if water cooling is quieter and keeps it all at a lower temp, I think I'd prefer to go that route. Any suggestions? I don't care about aesthetics even remotely, just function and price.
opticalmace
Member
Looking good. What's the final part list?
BlindSwordsmanZ
Member
Quick question.
I wanted to double check that the SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 500GB is compatible with the ASUS Strix Z270G. I've only used the older style SSD's so does this drive go in the pci slot under the graphics card?
Thanks in advance!
I wanted to double check that the SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 500GB is compatible with the ASUS Strix Z270G. I've only used the older style SSD's so does this drive go in the pci slot under the graphics card?
Thanks in advance!
Sectorseven
Member
No idea yet. It sounds like maybe it will be a similar incremental update and there will be an HEDT chip re-branded as an i9, costing probably less than the current models, but more than i7.
Bloodember
Member
For that over clock the included cooler will work. If you want an aftermarket cooler get At least the Cryorig H7.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Well, installation into the new case is complete. Cable management is absolutely horrendous so I'm not gonna even show it. Will likely need to get a semi-modular or modular power supply in future, plus one with longer cables. There's also either an issue with said PSU's molex connectors (at least those meant for fans) or the case's own fan controller, as when the fans were plugged in through that, they wouldn't spin - LEDs came on though.
Yet beyond that... I actually really do like it.
The blue is actually pretty nice, even if it is plastic. It fits much more comfortably on its perch than the previous case, and mounting both the HDD and SSD were a lot easier. Really, the only hassle in all was cable routing and management, and I suspect that's as much down to the power supply I'm working with than anything else (even my own poor skills). And well, it's just nice to have something to call my own.
Yet beyond that... I actually really do like it.
The blue is actually pretty nice, even if it is plastic. It fits much more comfortably on its perch than the previous case, and mounting both the HDD and SSD were a lot easier. Really, the only hassle in all was cable routing and management, and I suspect that's as much down to the power supply I'm working with than anything else (even my own poor skills). And well, it's just nice to have something to call my own.
HarryDemeanor
Member
I wonder what the reasoning behind this is. I think my 1080 is setup like the bottom picture but I have an EVGA PSU. Maybe I should switch it around.