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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

ISee

Member
Well, now I'm wondering about a an aftermarket cooler for the Ryzen 1700. If I want to overclock to, say, 3.6 GHz, is it reasonable to use the included cooler? Should I use my Hyper 212+ instead? Or is water cooling the way to go, and if so, what's a simple water cooling setup? Never tried water cooling before.

Looking at reviews, it seems like air cooling is fine for a 3.6 GHz overclock and water cooling is only really needed for 3.8+. However, if water cooling is quieter and keeps it all at a lower temp, I think I'd prefer to go that route. Any suggestions? I don't care about aesthetics even remotely, just function and price.

It's vice versa. AIO watercooling is the more effective cooling if you want to oc, but it is also loud. The fans need to push/pull air through the water block and the setup is mounted to your case without anything that could dampen the noise. It's quiet while running at lower temps though. If you want to go quiet and to overclock you need a case with noise suppression and a quiet air tower cooler. It's not an easy task.
Some air cooling options for you:

1.) The noctua nh-d15
It's a beast of a cooler with cooling that is comparable to a smaller AIO water solution. If you adjust the fan curves a bit, it is also surprisingly quiet. The downside is: That thing is huge and a hard fit, but it is relatively easy to install.

2.) Cryorig R1 Universal
Just a tiny bit worse in cooling than the nocuta d15, but it is a very well made air cooler. The big advantage here is the size. It is smaller and doesn't block/interfere with ram slots. You can also adjust the fan curves for this one, at 50-60% it is whisper quiet. This is one of the most well thought through air coolers I've ever seen. Good performance, good noise leves, good size and a very easy to install.

3.) be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3
It's the worst of the three when it comes to cooling, but it is the most quiet big tower cooler out there. The downside is the installation: It's a pain in the ass, but doable.

All three cooler have definitely more than enough heat dissipation capacities to cool down an overclocked 1700. But there are of course other solutions, just read some reviews.
Just a warning: Most coolers you buy today don't have an AM4 mounting solution in the box (mostly because the coolers are more than 1.5 years old), but you can order the needed parts for your AM4 mainboard for free from most manufacturers like cryorig, noctua, coolermaster or beQuiet.

Quick question.

I wanted to double check that the SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 500GB is compatible with the ASUS Strix Z270G. I've only used the older style SSD's so does this drive go in the pci slot under the graphics card?

Thanks in advance!

It's of course compatible. You have one M.2 socket on the front and one on the back of your MB. Just make sure to not use a SSD/HDD in SATA port 1 while having a m.2 drive connected. Sata port 1 and the m.2 socket 1 (the on on the front, if I'm not mistaken) share bandwidth. You also need to adjust the sata/m.2 setting in your uefi.
 

rtcn63

Member
Wow. Is this the way it's supposed to be done with any GPU/PSU? I've been using one cord for the job all this time.

It's apparently only needed for more power-hungry cards, and possibly just when using older PSU's (maybe?). If you aren't already experiencing problems, then your setup is probably fine:

https://seasonic.com/faq/

There are some graphics cards on the market that are outfitted with two or three PCIe slots. The power consumption of such cards is usually more than 225 watts, therefore customers must use two separate PCIe cables to safely connect them to the power supply.
 
It's of course compatible. You have one M.2 socket on the front and one on the back of your MB. Just make sure to not use a SSD/HDD in SATA port 1 while having a m.2 drive connected. Sata port 1 and the m.2 socket 1 (the on on the front, if I'm not mistaken) share bandwidth. You also need to adjust the sata/m.2 setting in your uefi.

Thank you!
 

J3ffro

Member
Asking on a friend's behalf. His computer is having more and more issues lately, and he's trying to put off a full upgrade/rebuild. Currently he has a 2600K with a GTX 590 and 16 gigs of ram. If he were to upgrade just the video card, to say an RX570/580 or GTX 1060, would the CPU hold him back, or would he see a sizable bump in performance?

From what I can tell, either of the newer cards requires less power, so he shouldn't need to change power supply, but if I'm wrong, please let me know.
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
This week I'm feeling red.

hWaMFY9.png
 
It's vice versa. AIO watercooling is the more effective cooling if you want to oc, but it is also loud. The fans need to push/pull air through the water block and the setup is mounted to your case without anything that could dampen the noise. It's quiet while running at lower temps though. If you want to go quiet and to overclock you need a case with noise suppression and a quiet air tower cooler. It's not an easy task.
Some air cooling options for you:

1.) The noctua nh-d15
It's a beast of a cooler with cooling that is comparable to a smaller AIO water solution. If you adjust the fan curves a bit, it is also surprisingly quiet. The downside is: That thing is huge and a hard fit, but it is relatively easy to install.

2.) Cryorig R1 Universal
Just a tiny bit worse in cooling than the nocuta d15, but it is a very well made air cooler. The big advantage here is the size. It is smaller and doesn't block/interfere with ram slots. You can also adjust the fan curves for this one, at 50-60% it is whisper quiet. This is one of the most well thought through air coolers I've ever seen. Good performance, good noise leves, good size and a very easy to install.

3.) be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3
It's the worst of the three when it comes to cooling, but it is the most quiet big tower cooler out there. The downside is the installation: It's a pain in the ass, but doable.

All three cooler have definitely more than enough heat dissipation capacities to cool down an overclocked 1700. But there are of course other solutions, just read some reviews.
Just a warning: Most coolers you buy today don't have an AM4 mounting solution in the box (mostly because the coolers are more than 1.5 years old), but you can order the needed parts for your AM4 mainboard for free from most manufacturers like cryorig, noctua, coolermaster or beQuiet.

Ah so in this case, air cooling would be quieter actually most likely. Didn't realize that. I'll keep this in mind, thank you.
 

Smokey

Member
Gave it a shot. Rolled back drivers. Turned off OC. Complete disabled/uninstalled game mode and xbox bar related features included in the Windows 10 creators update. Barely any change, intermittent microstutter remains.

No fucking idea what's causing this issue and it's pissed me right off. Such is the nightmare of trying to diagnose a hardware/software issue on PC. It could be something like an issue with my CPU, RAM, or GPU (fuck knows which). It could be issues with drivers. It could be issues with Windows 10 updates. Who the fuck knows, because I don't and I'm unlikely to find out.

It hardly makes games unplayable. Battlefield 1 is still performs incredibly well. But the microstutter is completely new and not welcome. I hate having performance/frame issues where I cant identify the problem and at least acknowledge if a solution exists or not.

As a side, Witcher 3 with grass tweaks is also fucked. This happened shortly beforehand actually, and seemed very unusual. Ultra settings for grass draw distance is doubled in my ini/cfg file, and is now basically unplayable due to constant microstutter as if the CPU can no longer handle the asset load. Reducing to standard ultra is fine and microstutter free, but yeah. Used to play with tweaks constantly, now I can't.

Piece of shit hardware!

EDIT: Going by the Nvidia forums and Microsoft helpdesk I'm not the only one who has noticed performance issues after the Creators Update, in particular frame loss and stuttering. Thanks, Microsoft.

I experienced the same issues when moving to the Creators Update. I don't know how long you've been on the update, but did you change power settings to High Performance, and make sure your display refresh is correct? These go back to default when doing a major Windows update, and is something I forgot about. With the default "Balanced" power setting, my CPU wasn't running higher than 3.4ghz, despite me having a OC of 4.5ghz. I changed those and performance was a lot better.
 

ISee

Member
Asking on a friend's behalf. His computer is having more and more issues lately, and he's trying to put off a full upgrade/rebuild. Currently he has a 2600K with a GTX 590 and 16 gigs of ram. If he were to upgrade just the video card, to say an RX570/580 or GTX 1060, would the CPU hold him back, or would he see a sizable bump in performance?

From what I can tell, either of the newer cards requires less power, so he shouldn't need to change power supply, but if I'm wrong, please let me know.

The i7 2600k holds up surprisingly well in gaming scenarios. Paired with a 580/1060 it is still possible to go for 1080p/60 at reasonable high/v. high settings.
By the way the 2600k can easily be pushed to 4.2 GHz, probably even more. Your friend would need a half descent cpu cooler for that though.

A 500-550W PSU would be enough.
 
Asking on a friend's behalf. His computer is having more and more issues lately, and he's trying to put off a full upgrade/rebuild. Currently he has a 2600K with a GTX 590 and 16 gigs of ram. If he were to upgrade just the video card, to say an RX570/580 or GTX 1060, would the CPU hold him back, or would he see a sizable bump in performance?

From what I can tell, either of the newer cards requires less power, so he shouldn't need to change power supply, but if I'm wrong, please let me know.
Yeah, 580 or 1060, they swap blows so whichever is cheaper, plus a tower cooler if he doesn't already have one to overlook the CPU.
 

RS4-

Member
Had an offer, my 970 + cash for a 1070. Saves me the trouble of selling the 970 on it's own, and actually save $30-50, compared to selling 970, then buying a 1070 from someone else. Just the Armor version.

If anything, I could always sell the 1070 and get a difference vendor one anyway.

I still run a 2600k at 4.5; so I'll see how the new GPU upgrade holds up, before moving onto a 7600k.
 
Does anybody have any suggestions for overclocking a Core i7 7700k? I have it cooled by a Corsair H100i v2 on an ASUS Maximus IX Hero with 16Gb of G.SKILL Trident Z RGB at 3200Mhz. I just ran the ASUS 5-way optimization and set it to the water-cooling present (TPUII) which resulted in a core clock of 5.15Ghz. I've included a screenshot below to show all of the relevant overclock settings that ASUS came up with.


Basically I am just wondering if this application applies safe overclocks or if the values it has chosen are going to harm my CPU in short/long term? I've never done CPU overclocking before so the idea of a one-click setup was intriguing, but with so many variables I wonder how well the ASUS 5-way optimization works?
 

J3ffro

Member
The i7 2600k holds up surprisingly well in gaming scenarios. Paired with a 580/1060 it is still possible to go for 1080p/60 at reasonable high/v. high settings.
By the way the 2600k can easily be pushed to 4.2 GHz, probably even more. Your friend would need a half descent cpu cooler for that though.

A 500-550W PSU would be enough.

Yeah, 580 or 1060, they swap blows so whichever is cheaper, plus a tower cooler if he doesn't already have one to overlook the CPU.

Thank you very much, I will pass it along, as well as the OC suggestion.
 

RS4-

Member
Does anybody have any suggestions for overclocking a Core i7 7700k? I have it cooled by a Corsair H100i v2 on an ASUS Maximus IX Hero with 16Gb of G.SKILL Trident Z RGB at 3200Mhz. I just ran the ASUS 5-way optimization and set it to the water-cooling present (TPUII) which resulted in a core clock of 5.15Ghz. I've included a screenshot below to show all of the relevant overclock settings that ASUS came up with.




Basically I am just wondering if this application applies safe overclocks or if the values it has chosen are going to harm my CPU in short/long term? I've never done CPU overclocking before so the idea of a one-click setup was intriguing, but with so many variables I wonder how well the ASUS 5-way optimization works?

What you really want to watch out for is voltage and your temps.

I suggest running a few games and benches to see what your temps are, and if you suffer any crashes. And if it does hold up, personally it's just up to you if you want to run 5Ghz 24/7 or down clock to 4.5-4.9 etc.
 

SkyOdin

Member
I need some big help with figuring out what parts to get for a new computer. For the last few years, I have been getting by with a laptop. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it will run the upcoming FFXIV expansion, Stormblood. I had been planning on getting a new computer for quite some time, and have been saving up for it. However, I have never built a PC before, and have no idea how to make sense of PC component serial numbers and specs.

Current Specs: None, will be building from scratch.
Budget: $1000 max, though I would really prefer to spend significantly less than that if I can. Live in the US.
Main Use: Casual gaming and general use. No streaming or video editing or anything like that. If it can play games decently and browse the internet, I am good.
Monitor Resolution: Currently, I use an old 720p LG monitor. I have a 1080p Samsung tv/monitor I could theoretically use, but it usually occupied by other uses.
Specific uses: FFXIV Stormblood. If it can run the game on par with a PS4, I would be happy.
Deadline: 3 to 4 weeks. It isn't critical if I go over this.
Overclocking: No. I have no experience setting up a computer at all, and I value low energy usage and reliability over performance.
 

Bloodember

Member
Game n maybe a little bit of video editing.

Here is one using a Ryzen 5 1400. The case is just a stand in, get what you want.
You can get Windows from Here for $20. You you want an Intel just click the link below and change the cpu and mobo.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($165.87 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($78.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston - SSDNow UV400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 570 4GB ARMOR OC Video Card ($184.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Rosewill - SRM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($19.99 @ Jet)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.89 @ Newegg)
Total: $724.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-27 17:21 EDT-0400
 
Any opinions on this revised build, based on the suggestions a couple of pages back? I've still to add a case - the P183 I use now is great, but the P183 V3 that's the equivalent now is a bit pricey for this build. Any other mid-tower cases with good noise/cable management out there?

I'll have to add keyboard/mouse too, and I'm wondering whether I need a cooler on top, but otherwise this looked to be a reasonably balanced build for photo editing/design and gaming/general use.

What do you think?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (£275.94 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard (£101.88 @ Aria PC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£119.52 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Sandisk - X400 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£116.96 @ BT Shop)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£41.88 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB ARMOR OC Video Card (£229.99 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£70.47 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: LG - UH12NS40 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer (£49.04 @ CCL Computers)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (£16.80 @ Kustom PCs)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (£16.80 @ Kustom PCs)
Monitor: BenQ - RL2460HT 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor (£160.24 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1199.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-27 22:49 BST+0100
 

Bloodember

Member
Any opinions on this revised build, based on the suggestions a couple of pages back? I've still to add a case - the P183 I use now is great, but the P183 V3 that's the equivalent now is a bit pricey for this build. Any other mid-tower cases with good noise/cable management out there?

I'll have to add keyboard/mouse too, and I'm wondering whether I need a cooler on top, but otherwise this looked to be a reasonably balanced build for photo editing/design and gaming/general use.

What do you think?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (£275.94 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard (£101.88 @ Aria PC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£119.52 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Sandisk - X400 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£116.96 @ BT Shop)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£41.88 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB ARMOR OC Video Card (£229.99 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£70.47 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: LG - UH12NS40 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer (£49.04 @ CCL Computers)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (£16.80 @ Kustom PCs)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (£16.80 @ Kustom PCs)
Monitor: BenQ - RL2460HT 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor (£160.24 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1199.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-27 22:49 BST+0100
Build looks fine. The wraith cooler that comes with the ryzen will be fine.
 

rtcn63

Member
Had an offer, my 970 + cash for a 1070. Saves me the trouble of selling the 970 on it's own, and actually save $30-50, compared to selling 970, then buying a 1070 from someone else. Just the Armor version.

If anything, I could always sell the 1070 and get a difference vendor one anyway.

I still run a 2600k at 4.5; so I'll see how the new GPU upgrade holds up, before moving onto a 7600k.

2600K is close to/on par with a modern i5 in performance for gaming. i7's have turned out to be really good investments for people not looking to redo their builds every five or so years.
 

RS4-

Member
2600K is close to/on par with a modern i5 in performance for gaming. i7's have turned out to be really good investments for people not looking to redo their builds every five or so years.

Yeah, it's just something I've been thinking about, especially since I've had this build for 6 years now.

If anything, I might just throw another 2x4gb of ram.

Not sure how much I can sell my cpu+mobo+ram for. Someone offered their 6600k, mobo, and 16gb for trade if I add $350 CAD lol.
 
The Logitech G403 mouse is perfect. I don't know why I held off on getting a wireless mouse for so long. It's performing exactly the same as my previous wired mouse in games (Steelseries Rival).

I don't think I'll switch to a wireless keyboard though. I'm picky with keyboards, and the Corsair K70 great.
 

rtcn63

Member
Yeah, it's just something I've been thinking about, especially since I've had this build for 6 years now.

If anything, I might just throw another 2x4gb of ram.

Not sure how much I can sell my cpu+mobo+ram for. Someone offered their 6600k, mobo, and 16gb for trade if I add $350 CAD lol.

8GB of ram is plenty for gaming, especially with the added vram from the 1070. (GPU's really don't want to use system ram if they can help it)

And do you mean MSI Armor? Because that's one of the worst AIB coolers. Better off saving up for the Gaming X.
 

rtcn63

Member
Yeah, reading up some more, the extra 8GB could have a tangible benefit. Sadly RAM prices seem to be pretty high right now (including DDR3).
 

RS4-

Member
8GB of ram is plenty for gaming, especially with the added vram from the 1070. (GPU's really don't want to use system ram if they can help it)

And do you mean MSI Armor? Because that's one of the worst AIB coolers. Better off saving up for the Gaming X.

Yeah, MSI Armor. I'll probably use it for a bit, see how it goes. Then sell it back, and buy another 1070 lol. I'm fine with spending another $50 to get Gigabyte, Asus or the Gaming X. Just doing this out of convenience.

I'd go straight for the non Armor if I had buyers for the 970.
 

Costia

Member
I wonder what the reasoning behind this is. I think my 1080 is setup like the bottom picture but I have an EVGA PSU. Maybe I should switch it around.
The reason some cards have 2 power connectors is because they need more power than a single PSU output can provide.
By connecting both to the same wire you are defeating the whole purpose of the 2 separate connections.
 

The Game

Member
Keep in mind i9 will use new socket.

But if you decide on this setup, and this is a foreword/warning: I'm going to try and convince you to spend more money. Ready?

You have top components all over the place, so why an i5? Granted, at the price you're listing for the 7600k, a 7700k is probably ~$90 more (though I haven't checked prices that recently and I believe there is still a $299.99 in-store deal at MicroCenter, if you happen to have one around you), but then this is a 2000-dollar machine.

On a similar note: I looked out of curiosity and, as an example, a MSI 1080Ti Seahawk is $799 - $20 more than what you're paying for that FTW3. You've got a hybrid cooler for CPU; I'd consider matching it with a hybrid GPU, though not necessarily the Seahawk. For such a small increase in price, the reduction in noise alone is worth it. Not to mention the performance and lower temps.

If you're still with me and still feeling adventurous, I totally recommend de-lid/re-lid to replace factory thermal paste on the 7700k with some liquid metal ($38 for RockItTools and easy as hell; $13 for liquid metal). With a X62 that could probably run 5Ghz just for like gaming sessions or something.

I'm just saying: you're basically going all-out, so why not go all-out. Marginal increase for better performance right away and slightly better future-proofing as time goes on.

Now, you could do absolutely none of this and still have an awesome rig :)

Either way, best of luck.

Thank you for the advice, Ill wait for i9 announcement and will try to add extra 200-300$ to budget so I can get decent CPU. Btw this de-lid/re-lid looks so interesting, would love to try something like this.
 

Renekton

Member
Thank you for the advice, Ill wait for i9 announcement and will try to add extra 200-300$ to budget so I can get decent CPU. Btw this de-lid/re-lid looks so interesting, would love to try something like this.
Be aware that i9s may be soldered, do not delid if true!
 
If I want 16gb of RAM for my build, is it better to use 4 sticks of 4gb or 2 sticks of 8gb?

I'm planning on using an Asus Prime x370 Ryzen mobo if that matters.
 
If I want 16gb of RAM for my build, is it better to use 4 sticks of 4gb or 2 sticks of 8gb?

I'm planning on using an Asus Prime x370 Ryzen mobo if that matters.

Going 4x4 is just introducing additional components that can fail.

All other things being equal you won't notice a difference. Go for 2x8.
 
So I built a 7700k rig yesterday and it's been really disappointing to me. I didn't expect the thermal spikes to be that crazy, but they are even at stock. I'm seeing 100c way too regularly so much that I tore everything down and reseated my X62 Kraken. I had to double check to make sure since I knew the pump was functioning. Did I just get a bum i7? This isn't normal is it? I've never had issues with a build till I built this one.

Due to the issues I've been facing I'm gonna try out the Ryzen 7 1700x for my secondary computer. Is there anything I should know about it's heating or overheating? I was looking at a be quiet HSF, but I might just use my X62 if I can get a bracket. What about ram? I know there were some issues with Ryzen and ram. Do I have to get a specific speed or type?
 
So I built a 7700k rig yesterday and it's been really disappointing to me. I didn't expect the thermal spikes to be that crazy, but they are even at stock. I'm seeing 100c way too regularly so much that I tore everything down and reseated my X62 Kraken. I had to double check to make sure since I knew the pump was functioning. Did I just get a bum i7? This isn't normal is it? I've never had issues with a build till I built this one.

That is absolutely not normal. I have the Kraken X52 and before delidding, I would see 60-65c tops at stock speeds. I replaced the stock thermal paste with Kryonaut though. I also adjusted my fan curve in CAM to react to CPU temps.
 

ISee

Member
So I built a 7700k rig yesterday and it's been really disappointing to me. I didn't expect the thermal spikes to be that crazy, but they are even at stock. I'm seeing 100c way too regularly so much that I tore everything down and reseated my X62 Kraken. I had to double check to make sure since I knew the pump was functioning. Did I just get a bum i7? This isn't normal is it? I've never had issues with a build till I built this one.

Due to the issues I've been facing I'm gonna try out the Ryzen 7 1700x for my secondary computer. Is there anything I should know about it's heating or overheating? I was looking at a be quiet HSF, but I might just use my X62 if I can get a bracket. What about ram? I know there were some issues with Ryzen and ram. Do I have to get a specific speed or type?

Maybe the auto voltage on you MB is going nuts, for whatever reason, so take a look at the voltage levels and try a manual setting. But I seriously doubt it's that.

100°C at stock speed isn't normal at all, especially not with an AIO watercooler. Something is wrong here, if you are 100% sure it's not the cooler than rma the CPU.
 
So I built a 7700k rig yesterday and it's been really disappointing to me. I didn't expect the thermal spikes to be that crazy, but they are even at stock. I'm seeing 100c way too regularly so much that I tore everything down and reseated my X62 Kraken. I had to double check to make sure since I knew the pump was functioning. Did I just get a bum i7? This isn't normal is it? I've never had issues with a build till I built this one.

Due to the issues I've been facing I'm gonna try out the Ryzen 7 1700x for my secondary computer. Is there anything I should know about it's heating or overheating? I was looking at a be quiet HSF, but I might just use my X62 if I can get a bracket. What about ram? I know there were some issues with Ryzen and ram. Do I have to get a specific speed or type?

Reset BIOS defaults and update firmware. Maybe your mobo is doing something weird. 100C is crazy, even for spikes, especially on an AIO.

Next I'd RMA it. Because I mean what else are you going to do with it? I assume you can't return? And trying to sell without telling someone why would be a dick move plus you'd lose money.

It is a solid CPU; sounds like you just had really bad luck.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
I experienced the same issues when moving to the Creators Update. I don't know how long you've been on the update, but did you change power settings to High Performance, and make sure your display refresh is correct? These go back to default when doing a major Windows update, and is something I forgot about. With the default "Balanced" power setting, my CPU wasn't running higher than 3.4ghz, despite me having a OC of 4.5ghz. I changed those and performance was a lot better.

Cheers mate, but all good on my end. It's so weird :/. I'm going to roll back the Creators Update to Anniversary and see if the issue is still there. If so it could be hardware related.
 
So I built a 7700k rig yesterday and it's been really disappointing to me. I didn't expect the thermal spikes to be that crazy, but they are even at stock. I'm seeing 100c way too regularly so much that I tore everything down and reseated my X62 Kraken. I had to double check to make sure since I knew the pump was functioning. Did I just get a bum i7? This isn't normal is it? I've never had issues with a build till I built this one.

Due to the issues I've been facing I'm gonna try out the Ryzen 7 1700x for my secondary computer. Is there anything I should know about it's heating or overheating? I was looking at a be quiet HSF, but I might just use my X62 if I can get a bracket. What about ram? I know there were some issues with Ryzen and ram. Do I have to get a specific speed or type?

First guess would be you made a mistake with the thermal paste or setting up the cooler in some manner.

Also, what vcore do you see in cpu-z?
 

grimmiq

Member
Having a little bit of an issue, playing Witcher 3, twice now screen's gone black, then my TV's no signal message comes up. Waited for 30secs, nothing happened, switched to diff HDMI and back, nothing happened, but alt-tabbing seems to fix it.

Is this likely an issue with my new card or something related to the game another software issue?
 

ISee

Member
Having a little bit of an issue, playing Witcher 3, twice now screen's gone black, then my TV's no signal message comes up. Waited for 30secs, nothing happened, switched to diff HDMI and back, nothing happened, but alt-tabbing seems to fix it.

Is this likely an issue with my new card or something related to the game another software issue?

Hard to tell without further information on your build, specs and setup. Could be something wrong with the HDMI cable, a TV issue, a GPU issue, a power problem, something tv firmware/gpu driver/hdcp related.
Try going into the windows event log and look at the stuff there at the time the TV went black. Is there something about a driver crash or a power failure (or anything else at that time stamp)?
Try changing the cable and the HDMI port on the TV. Try connecting your system to another TV, reinstall gpu drivers etc.
 
My first rig i'm thinking of building
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VTrksJ


Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor

Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory

Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card

NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case

EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

Would this work okay?
 

grimmiq

Member
Hard to tell without further information on your build, specs and setup. Could be something wrong with the HDMI cable, a TV issue, a GPU issue, a power problem, something tv firmware/gpu driver/hdcp related.
Try going into the windows event log and look at the stuff there at the time the TV went black. Is there something about a driver crash or a power failure (or anything else at that time stamp)?
Try changing the cable and the HDMI port on the TV. Try connecting your system to another TV, reinstall gpu drivers etc.

PC is several years old

i5-3570k
Asus P8Z77-V Pro
8GB RAM
new RX 580
850W PSU

Event log didn't even cross my mind, I'll keep it in mind and check immediately next time it happens, but

Updated Windows Defender status successfully to SECURITY_PRODUCT_STATE_ON. under applications.

seemed to happen around the same time of both instances. Looking in both Application and System logs the most recent "errors" happened before I started playing.
 

ISee

Member
My first rig i'm thinking of building
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VTrksJ


Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor

Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory

Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card

NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case

EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

Would this work okay?

Would work like a dream. Just two tiny additions:

Get an SSD. You're building a higher end PC and SSDs will significantly improve your boot up time and the loading in games. It's a great upgrade, trust me.

Rethink the Corsair AIO. I had it for a week. Performance is good, no doubt about that. But it is loud and the corsair software is shit and didn't work for me. I had to stop controlling it via the software and re plugged everything to take manual control over my uefi/mainboard, luckily enough the asus z270 a was build with that in mind. But the noise was the biggest issue, even with adjusted fan curves. I went back to a dual air tower solution and I'm again playing in silence, but I'm probably the only one here hating the corsair Hi100.

Updated Windows Defender status successfully to SECURITY_PRODUCT_STATE_ON. under applications.


Most probably unrelated, but keep an eye on it. If it keeps happening try deactivating windows defender. You should get something else anyway, imo.
 
My first rig i'm thinking of building
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VTrksJ


Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor

Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory

Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card

NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case

EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

Would this work okay?

I suggest an SSD for windows and applications paired with the WD.
 
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