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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

What kind of SSD would be good for this build and how pricey is it?

initially I would say you don't need anything bigger than ~250GB to be your C: , and then you can add an additional SSD to install games.

Your mobo can have a m.2 SSD if you want less cables, a ~250GB would be around $100 either M.2 or a regular SATA SSD of same capacity. If you rather go out of the gate with an SSD with enough capacity for games, then maybe you opt for ~500GB that would be around $180. Although it isn't really taking advantage of the additional speed an M.2 SSD could have, this model seems decent price wise for 525GB https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820156154

A 120 GB ssd would be plenty for windows, but you would't really be able to install more than a few games, sometimes only one at once, and it is the newer bigger games the benefit the best from SSDs.

---

there is a new thing called Optane that intel introduced and would let you cache your HDD with an additional smaller SSD. I have no experience with it, but it is also an option with your mobo and it would increase the performance of your 1TB Western Digital Blue.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Thought I'd give Prime95 a whirl, see how my CPU reacts, given the performance oddities, and err...

untitledo2uwd.png


Good fucking god. I know it's a stress test, but temps are so high it's throttling back to default clocks. Maybe I need to reapply my thermal because fuck me that is way, way, way too high under stress test load. Games aren't hitting that, but still.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thought I'd give Prime95 a whirl, see how my CPU reacts, given the performance oddities, and err...

untitledo2uwd.png


Good fucking god. I know it's a stress test, but temps are so high it's throttling back to default clocks. Maybe I need to reapply my thermal because fuck me that is way, way, way too high under stress test load. Games aren't hitting that, but still.

What CPU is this? what CPU cooler?
Is the CPU cooler free of dust? Fans are turning?
Re application of the cooler should help, especially if it's not installed correctly to begin with.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
What CPU is this? what CPU cooler?
Is the CPU cooler free of dust? Fans are turning?
Re application of the cooler should help, especially if it's not installed correctly to begin with.

6700K, hyper 212+, seems to be free of dust and my fans are turning. Could be that I'm pumping too many volts through, but I always stress test every OC and if I was hitting these temps (so high it's throttling) I would never have let it stay this way.
 

LilJoka

Member
6700K, hyper 212+, seems to be free of dust and my fans are turning. Could be that I'm pumping too many volts through, but I always stress test every OC and if I was hitting these temps (so high it's throttling) I would never have let it stay this way.

Turn the OC off in bios to begin with.
A re mount is likely due if stock settings are not doing the job.
Stock vcore shouldn't exceed 1.25v ish.

You need a M2 - even something with 64gb will do just for the OS.

M2 might be expensive, but any SATA3 SSD would do the job and be miles better than a HDD for a boot drive. I would get the cheapest largest SSD possible.
 

grimmiq

Member
Apparently it's not the card, but the controller, something about Dualshock 4's not affecting the sleep timer by default? So since I'm not touching the Mouse or Keyboard, my PC thinks it's not in use and goes to sleep. Not sure if it's just in Witcher 3, but a couple of people on Steam had the same issue.
 
Anybody have recommendations for a good HDR10 or 4K monitor (or possibly both?) that'll play nice with both a desktop and PS4? Preferably something with a low response time. I'm having a hell of a time trying to find a decent HDR10 monitor on Amazon (and that's what I'm really aiming for; I don't care much for 4K, and a 4K/HDR combo monitor is way out of my price range right now).
 

ISee

Member
Apparently it's not the card, but the controller, something about Dualshock 4's not affecting the sleep timer by default? So since I'm not touching the Mouse or Keyboard, my PC thinks it's not in use and goes to sleep. Not sure if it's just in Witcher 3, but a couple of people on Steam had the same issue.

Hmm that's interesting. I'm sometimes using the DS4 and never ran into problems before, but...
An easy fix would be to change the timer for the system to turn of the display. Well, at least it's nothing serious, just annoying :)
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Turn the OC off in bios to begin with.
A re mount is likely due if stock settings are not doing the job.
Stock vcore shouldn't exceed 1.25v ish.

Turned off my own OC but left the auto turbo on, which takes the clock up to 4.2GHz. Set to auto it was guzzling about 1.39v. I'm dialling the vcore back to find the point where it loses stability on auto turbo. Currently on 1.3v with intent to go lower. Under Prime95 load I'm still getting extreme peaks of mid 90°Cs though, which does not seem right at all. Especially since it's a cold winter night in Melbourne. I've got no heating on in my house, and the outside ambient temperature is ~10°C if not less. I doubt my apartment is all that much warmer.
 
Turned off my own OC but left the auto turbo on, which takes the clock up to 4.2GHz. Set to auto it was guzzling about 1.39v. I'm dialling the vcore back to find the point where it loses stability on auto turbo. Currently on 1.3v with intent to go lower. Under Prime95 load I'm still getting extreme peaks of mid 90°Cs though, which does not seem right at all. Especially since it's a cold winter night in Melbourne. I've got no heating on in my house, and the outside ambient temperature is ~10°C if not less. I doubt my apartment is all that much warmer.

Question, since you bring up those as the load temps: What are you getting while idle?
 

MrBigBoy

Member
Hi all,

I'm looking into building a PC for simulation games like Planet Coaster, Cities Skylines etc.

Now I have a two year old Asus laptop with a Intel Haswell Quad Core i7 at 2.6Ghz (don't know the exact model) with a GTX 950M graphics card and 8 gigs of ram. I'm noticing it can't hold a steady 60 fps in simulation games at normal settings and 1080p.

Can anyone help me pick parts for a PC that mainly plays these kind of games? We have a PS4 Pro and a Switch for all the other games, so the PC will only play simulation games.

I really have no idea what kind of budget I need for a PC for these games, so all help is welcome :) Thanks!
 

ISee

Member
Turned off my own OC but left the auto turbo on, which takes the clock up to 4.2GHz. Set to auto it was guzzling about 1.39v. I'm dialling the vcore back to find the point where it loses stability on auto turbo. Currently on 1.3v with intent to go lower. Under Prime95 load I'm still getting extreme peaks of mid 90°Cs though, which does not seem right at all. Especially since it's a cold winter night in Melbourne. I've got no heating on in my house, and the outside ambient temperature is ~10°C if not less. I doubt my apartment is all that much warmer.

1.39V is very high. Even 1.3V is high for stock speeds, try to go down to 1.25v. But before that I'd take off the cpu cooler, clean off the old thermal compound and reapply it and then recheck temperatures. You also shouldn't use prime95 at the moment, temperatures are too high for that. Take something less aggressive and check for temperature before and after cleaning/reapplying new thermal compound.

I'll probably pick up a Noctua NH-U14S for my new rig but that color man, it's gonna clash so hard with the rest of my build.

Because of the way it looks or because it blocks ram slots?
A good alternative to noctua is cryorig (they should start paying me by now). Performance is similar but the coolers look better (imo) and they have some good performing variants that don't interfere with slots on the mb.

The Cryorig R1 Universal is a very nice and 'compact' dual tower design. It's easy to mount, doesn't block stuff on the MB, noise levels are okay and performance is just slightly worse than the Noctua NH-D15, which is an impressiv feat. You can even order custom covers to better match your color theme.

 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Question, since you bring up those as the load temps: What are you getting while idle?

29 °C idle.

1.39V is very high. Even 1.3V is high for stock speeds, try to go down to 1.25v. But before that I'd take off the cpu cooler, clean off the old thermal compound and reapply it and then recheck temperatures. You also shouldn't use prime95 at the moment, temperatures are too high for that. Take something less aggressive and check for temperature before and after cleaning/reapplying new thermal compound.

Done deal. Will try to get it done when I get home from work tomorrow. Temps are defo too high.
 
Because of the way it looks or because it blocks ram slots?
A good alternative to noctua is cryorig (they should start paying me by now). Performance is similar but the coolers look better (imo) and they have some good performing variants that don't interfere with slots on the mb.

The Cryorig R1 Universal is a very nice and 'compact' dual tower design. It's easy to mount, doesn't block stuff on the MB, noise levels are okay and performance is just slightly worse than the Noctua NH-D15, which is an impressiv feat. You can even order custom covers to better match your color theme.

Because of the color, U14S is only single tower.. I'll look in to the cooler you listed, might just go for that one instead, the white still doesn't fully fit with the black / graphite look but it's a lot better than tan/brown.
 
UK GAF, have you guys experienced increased temperatures since around Thursday or so? CPU temps have gone up for me (e.g. most games would stick to around 40-mid 50s, now they tend to reach high 50s-mid 60s). Last 2 days the weather's been much less hot, but the CPU temps have remained higher. Using a Corsair H80 liquid cooler, with an i7 6700K.
 

knitoe

Member
UK GAF, have you guys experienced increased temperatures since around Thursday or so? CPU temps have gone up for me (e.g. most games would stick to around 40-mid 50s, now they tend to reach high 50s-mid 60s). Last 2 days the weather's been much less hot, but the CPU temps have remained higher. Using a Corsair H80 liquid cooler, with an i7 6700K.

Not from UK, but if your ambient temps are lower and your PC temps are higher, check if your case flow has changed. The radiator fan working. You can try reapplying the cpu heatsink. The hardest part is checking if the pumps works correctly and/or there isn't a blockage in your AIO.
 
Can anyone answer whether or not the Noctua D-15 will block the PCI slot on the AsRock Taichi Mobo for Ryzen? If so, does moving the GPU to the second slot make a difference?
 
Not from UK, but if your ambient temps are lower and your PC temps are higher, check if your case flow has changed. The radiator fan working. You can try reapplying the cpu heatsink. The hardest part is checking if the pumps works correctly and/or there isn't a blockage in your AIO.
Fans are all working (if there was a blockage in the corsair loop, then the fans wouldn't be spinning, would they?), idle temps are relatively close to how they were before, just a few degrees higher. Going to guess it's mainly due to summer beginning now.
 
What you really want to watch out for is voltage and your temps.

I suggest running a few games and benches to see what your temps are, and if you suffer any crashes. And if it does hold up, personally it's just up to you if you want to run 5Ghz 24/7 or down clock to 4.5-4.9 etc.

Thanks!

I ran AIDA 64 and noticed the temps getting into the 80s. I decided to stop the test and disable the overclock. I think I am going to do as you suggested and go down to 5.8Ghz or and see where my temps fall.

Edit: Also, from what I have been reading the i7700K is subject to random temperature spikes? I often notice a core or the package itself will report a jump of 10 to maybe even 20c regardless of what is happening. Has anyone else here been experiencing this?
 

LilJoka

Member
Fans are all working (if there was a blockage in the corsair loop, then the fans wouldn't be spinning, would they?), idle temps are relatively close to how they were before, just a few degrees higher. Going to guess it's mainly due to summer beginning now.

Ambients have a big effect. My idle temps are up 5-7c.
 
Hi everyone, I'm in the need of a new gpu. Currently I am using a GTX 750ti and it does work reasonably well, runs most modern releases on high. The problem it has is hitting 60fps at times without needing to tweak visuals. My budget is $200-300, any solid reccomendations?

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RmTTPs

Current build if that helps.
 
I'd like to add some case fans to my PC but I have no more power cables for them. Is it possible to buy anything that connects my PSU to the fans that I add? I'm from the UK if that helps.
 

knitoe

Member
Fans are all working (if there was a blockage in the corsair loop, then the fans wouldn't be spinning, would they?), idle temps are relatively close to how they were before, just a few degrees higher. Going to guess it's mainly due to summer beginning now.

A correctly running radiator fan(s) won't tell you if there's a blockage somewhere in the AIO. Yeah, if the ambient temps increase, cpu temps should also increase, but didn't you say the ambient temps were lower?
 
I'd like to add some case fans to my PC but I have no more power cables for them. Is it possible to buy anything that connects my PSU to the fans that I add? I'm from the UK if that helps.

Model of PSU, and what exactly do you mean there are no more power cables for them? As in slots on the motherboard to support them, or direct from the PSU?
 

Blarg

Neo Member
So how is the 4790k holding up for 1440p? I'm planning to upgrade my monitor to 1440p/144Hz/G-sync and my GPU to something that can push high framerates at that resolution (1080ti or 1170/Volta equivalent). Not sure if I will be bottlenecked by the CPU.

Also, if I do decide to upgrade the CPU, is anyone successfully running Windows 7 on the newer Intel gens or Ryzen?
 

RS4-

Member
8GB of ram is plenty for gaming, especially with the added vram from the 1070. (GPU's really don't want to use system ram if they can help it)

And do you mean MSI Armor? Because that's one of the worst AIB coolers. Better off saving up for the Gaming X.

I've thought it over, and I'll just get a different AIB. Had I gone through with the Armor, I considered getting a Kraken g10/12, but that's just more money and some time taken to do all the heatsinks and shit.

Gonna figure out which model to go for lol.
 

F34R

Member
So how is the 4790k holding up for 1440p? I'm planning to upgrade my monitor to 1440p/144Hz/G-sync and my GPU to something that can push high framerates at that resolution (1080ti or 1170/Volta equivalent). Not sure if I will be bottlenecked by the CPU.

Also, if I do decide to upgrade the CPU, is anyone successfully running Windows 7 on the newer Intel gens or Ryzen?

I'm thinking the same thing.. but mine is a 4770. I'm getting the AOC 165MHz G-Sync 27" IPS monitor and a new GPU. That's about my budget of $1300 lol. So, I'll have to stick with the 4770 cpu/ram combo I'm with now so I can get the 1080 Ti + AOC monitor.
 
initially I would say you don't need anything bigger than ~250GB to be your C: , and then you can add an additional SSD to install games.

Your mobo can have a m.2 SSD if you want less cables, a ~250GB would be around $100 either M.2 or a regular SATA SSD of same capacity. If you rather go out of the gate with an SSD with enough capacity for games, then maybe you opt for ~500GB that would be around $180. Although it isn't really taking advantage of the additional speed an M.2 SSD could have, this model seems decent price wise for 525GB https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820156154

A 120 GB ssd would be plenty for windows, but you would't really be able to install more than a few games, sometimes only one at once, and it is the newer bigger games the benefit the best from SSDs.

---

there is a new thing called Optane that intel introduced and would let you cache your HDD with an additional smaller SSD. I have no experience with it, but it is also an option with your mobo and it would increase the performance of your 1TB Western Digital Blue.

I added in the SSD but it brings up the message saying. "The motherboard M.2 slot #0 shares bandwidth with a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA 6Gb/s port is disabled." Any idea how to fix this?
 

DrForester

Kills Photobucket
I'll probably pick up a Noctua NH-U14S for my new rig but that color man, it's gonna clash so hard with the rest of my build.

If you're concerned with aesthetics on your CPU cooler, you might check out Zalman's round coolers. I've used them in the past and they work great. Quiet and efficient.

This is just one, but they have a few color styles.

35-118-074-08.jpg


You will have to sacrifice approximately 5 virgins and sell your soul to mount the thing though.
 

Swig_

Member
Is there an issue with the i7-7700K or is it only if you want to overclock? I've been thinking about building another rig with an i7.
 
If you're concerned with aesthetics on your CPU cooler, you might check out Zalman's round coolers. I've used them in the past and they work great. Quiet and efficient.

This is just one, but they have a few color styles.

35-118-074-08.jpg


You will have to sacrifice approximately 5 virgins and sell your soul to mount the thing though.

Good lord, that looks like a nightmare to install. I thought my aftermarket cooler was cumbersome.
 

ISee

Member
I'm thinking the same thing.. but mine is a 4770. I'm getting the AOC 165MHz G-Sync 27" IPS monitor and a new GPU. That's about my budget of $1300 lol. So, I'll have to stick with the 4770 cpu/ram combo I'm with now so I can get the 1080 Ti + AOC monitor.

You should be able to oc the 4770k to 4790k levels of performance, or at least close to it. The only difference between them is the clock speed.

So how is the 4790k holding up for 1440p? I'm planning to upgrade my monitor to 1440p/144Hz/G-sync and my GPU to something that can push high framerates at that resolution (1080ti or 1170/Volta equivalent). Not sure if I will be bottlenecked by the CPU.

Also, if I do decide to upgrade the CPU, is anyone successfully running Windows 7 on the newer Intel gens or Ryzen?

In general the 7700k is about 15% faster than a 4790k. Pretty much irrelevant for 1080p/1440p/4k @ 60 fps, but the extra power will help you to reach very high frame rates more consistent and for longer periods of time. Is it worth spending $600 for a new CPU, RAM and MB to reach 100 fps in Watch_Dogs 2 instead of 88 fps on your old CPU? Idk. It is for some people.

AMD and Intel both do not support windows 7 anymore. But most mb manufacturers still offer win 7 dirvers for their ryzen and kabylake products. That said, installing a fresh win7 could be annoying and you could run into problems with USB and SATA drivers during installation.

Just a quick footnote: If you aim for consistent and very high frame rates (and nothing else) the 7700k is the superior CPU in comparison to even the 1800x (at least for now).

Is there an issue with the i7-7700K or is it only if you want to overclock? I've been thinking about building another rig with an i7.

No, it's a fine CPU. Overclocking is also okay and most people are able to hit 4.7 - 4.8 GHz on normal air coolers without temperatures reaching troublesome levels (80°C+ on prime 95). 4.9 - 5 GHz is where things get out of control when it comes to temperatures and voltage values.
 
I added in the SSD but it brings up the message saying. "The motherboard M.2 slot #0 shares bandwidth with a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA 6Gb/s port is disabled." Any idea how to fix this?

That's just how the Mobo works, a SSD could be connected in either of them and you lose one if you use the other. Just leave SATA 0 empty when you connect anything else.
 

F34R

Member
In general the 7700k is about 15% faster than a 4790k. Pretty much irrelevant for 1080p/1440p/4k @ 60 fps, but the extra power will help you to reach very high frame rates more consistent and for longer periods of time. Is it worth spending $600 for a new CPU, RAM and MB to reach 100 fps in Watch_Dogs 2 instead of 88 fps on your old CPU?

AMD and Intel both do not support windows 7 anymore. But most mb manufacturers still offer dirvers for their ryzen and kabylake products. That said, installing a fresh win7 could be annoying and you could run into problems with USB and SATA drivers during installation.

Just a quick footnote: If you aim for consistent and very high frame rates (and nothing else) the 7700k is the superior CPU in comparison to even the 1800x (at least for now).

Thanks. I think I'm going to end up with a 1080 Ti and the AOC 27" 1440p IPS 165Mhz G-Sync monitor for now. Pair that with my 4770 and old DDR3 10700 RAM lol. That should hold me over 'till this time next year.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Can anyone answer whether or not the Noctua D-15 will block the PCI slot on the AsRock Taichi Mobo for Ryzen? If so, does moving the GPU to the second slot make a difference?

Noctua's website lists the NH-D15 as being fully compatible with the Asrock X370 Taichi: http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-d15/comp, provided you are using the required AM4 mounting kit. You should have no issues using a videocard in the top pci-e 3.0 x16 slot. However, if you did move the videocard down to the next pci-e 3.0 x16 slot then it shouldn't make any difference as far as performance.
 

F34R

Member
Now that I think about it, I'll wait to see what the refresh looks like in June-August. Ugh. I don't wanna grab a 1070 now, and in a month the 2070 will be out...
 
Now that I think about it, I'll wait to see what the refresh looks like in June-August. Ugh. I don't wanna grab a 1070 now, and in a month the 2070 will be out...

What is the nomenclature like going forward? Wouldn't it be an 1170? But I get your point either way, just curious about names.
 

Bloodember

Member
Now that I think about it, I'll wait to see what the refresh looks like in June-August. Ugh. I don't wanna grab a 1070 now, and in a month the 2070 will be out...
The 2070 will be out on like 10 years, the 1170 should be out later this year though.
 

F34R

Member
What is the nomenclature like going forward? Wouldn't it be an 1170? But I get your point either way, just curious about names.

The 2070 will be out on like 10 years, the 1170 should be out later this year though.

Lol.. I was just going off this:

http://wccftech.com/nvidia-pascal-volta-gpu-leaked-2017-2018/

partial quote:
NVIDIA GeForce 20 Pascal Refresh For 2017 Allegedly Includes GTX 2080 Ti, 2080 & 2070 Cards With GDDR5X Memory & Faster Clock Speeds

Also: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-geforce-20-volta-graphics-card-q3-2017/
 
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