Drilbit777
Member
What kind of SSD would be good for this build and how pricey is it?I suggest an SSD for windows and applications paired with the WD.
What kind of SSD would be good for this build and how pricey is it?I suggest an SSD for windows and applications paired with the WD.
What kind of SSD would be good for this build and how pricey is it?
Thought I'd give Prime95 a whirl, see how my CPU reacts, given the performance oddities, and err...
Good fucking god. I know it's a stress test, but temps are so high it's throttling back to default clocks. Maybe I need to reapply my thermal because fuck me that is way, way, way too high under stress test load. Games aren't hitting that, but still.
What kind of SSD would be good for this build and how pricey is it?
What CPU is this? what CPU cooler?
Is the CPU cooler free of dust? Fans are turning?
Re application of the cooler should help, especially if it's not installed correctly to begin with.
6700K, hyper 212+, seems to be free of dust and my fans are turning. Could be that I'm pumping too many volts through, but I always stress test every OC and if I was hitting these temps (so high it's throttling) I would never have let it stay this way.
You need a M2 - even something with 64gb will do just for the OS.
Apparently it's not the card, but the controller, something about Dualshock 4's not affecting the sleep timer by default? So since I'm not touching the Mouse or Keyboard, my PC thinks it's not in use and goes to sleep. Not sure if it's just in Witcher 3, but a couple of people on Steam had the same issue.
Turn the OC off in bios to begin with.
A re mount is likely due if stock settings are not doing the job.
Stock vcore shouldn't exceed 1.25v ish.
Turned off my own OC but left the auto turbo on, which takes the clock up to 4.2GHz. Set to auto it was guzzling about 1.39v. I'm dialling the vcore back to find the point where it loses stability on auto turbo. Currently on 1.3v with intent to go lower. Under Prime95 load I'm still getting extreme peaks of mid 90°Cs though, which does not seem right at all. Especially since it's a cold winter night in Melbourne. I've got no heating on in my house, and the outside ambient temperature is ~10°C if not less. I doubt my apartment is all that much warmer.
Turned off my own OC but left the auto turbo on, which takes the clock up to 4.2GHz. Set to auto it was guzzling about 1.39v. I'm dialling the vcore back to find the point where it loses stability on auto turbo. Currently on 1.3v with intent to go lower. Under Prime95 load I'm still getting extreme peaks of mid 90°Cs though, which does not seem right at all. Especially since it's a cold winter night in Melbourne. I've got no heating on in my house, and the outside ambient temperature is ~10°C if not less. I doubt my apartment is all that much warmer.
I'll probably pick up a Noctua NH-U14S for my new rig but that color man, it's gonna clash so hard with the rest of my build.
Question, since you bring up those as the load temps: What are you getting while idle?
1.39V is very high. Even 1.3V is high for stock speeds, try to go down to 1.25v. But before that I'd take off the cpu cooler, clean off the old thermal compound and reapply it and then recheck temperatures. You also shouldn't use prime95 at the moment, temperatures are too high for that. Take something less aggressive and check for temperature before and after cleaning/reapplying new thermal compound.
Because of the way it looks or because it blocks ram slots?
A good alternative to noctua is cryorig (they should start paying me by now). Performance is similar but the coolers look better (imo) and they have some good performing variants that don't interfere with slots on the mb.
The Cryorig R1 Universal is a very nice and 'compact' dual tower design. It's easy to mount, doesn't block stuff on the MB, noise levels are okay and performance is just slightly worse than the Noctua NH-D15, which is an impressiv feat. You can even order custom covers to better match your color theme.
UK GAF, have you guys experienced increased temperatures since around Thursday or so? CPU temps have gone up for me (e.g. most games would stick to around 40-mid 50s, now they tend to reach high 50s-mid 60s). Last 2 days the weather's been much less hot, but the CPU temps have remained higher. Using a Corsair H80 liquid cooler, with an i7 6700K.
Fans are all working (if there was a blockage in the corsair loop, then the fans wouldn't be spinning, would they?), idle temps are relatively close to how they were before, just a few degrees higher. Going to guess it's mainly due to summer beginning now.Not from UK, but if your ambient temps are lower and your PC temps are higher, check if your case flow has changed. The radiator fan working. You can try reapplying the cpu heatsink. The hardest part is checking if the pumps works correctly and/or there isn't a blockage in your AIO.
What you really want to watch out for is voltage and your temps.
I suggest running a few games and benches to see what your temps are, and if you suffer any crashes. And if it does hold up, personally it's just up to you if you want to run 5Ghz 24/7 or down clock to 4.5-4.9 etc.
Fans are all working (if there was a blockage in the corsair loop, then the fans wouldn't be spinning, would they?), idle temps are relatively close to how they were before, just a few degrees higher. Going to guess it's mainly due to summer beginning now.
Hi everyone, I'm in the need of a new gpu. Currently I am using a GTX 750ti and it does work reasonably well, runs most modern releases on high. The problem it has is hitting 60fps at times without needing to tweak visuals. My budget is $200-300, any solid reccomendations?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RmTTPs
Current build if that helps.
Fans are all working (if there was a blockage in the corsair loop, then the fans wouldn't be spinning, would they?), idle temps are relatively close to how they were before, just a few degrees higher. Going to guess it's mainly due to summer beginning now.
I'd like to add some case fans to my PC but I have no more power cables for them. Is it possible to buy anything that connects my PSU to the fans that I add? I'm from the UK if that helps.
8GB of ram is plenty for gaming, especially with the added vram from the 1070. (GPU's really don't want to use system ram if they can help it)
And do you mean MSI Armor? Because that's one of the worst AIB coolers. Better off saving up for the Gaming X.
So how is the 4790k holding up for 1440p? I'm planning to upgrade my monitor to 1440p/144Hz/G-sync and my GPU to something that can push high framerates at that resolution (1080ti or 1170/Volta equivalent). Not sure if I will be bottlenecked by the CPU.
Also, if I do decide to upgrade the CPU, is anyone successfully running Windows 7 on the newer Intel gens or Ryzen?
initially I would say you don't need anything bigger than ~250GB to be your C: , and then you can add an additional SSD to install games.
Your mobo can have a m.2 SSD if you want less cables, a ~250GB would be around $100 either M.2 or a regular SATA SSD of same capacity. If you rather go out of the gate with an SSD with enough capacity for games, then maybe you opt for ~500GB that would be around $180. Although it isn't really taking advantage of the additional speed an M.2 SSD could have, this model seems decent price wise for 525GB https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820156154
A 120 GB ssd would be plenty for windows, but you would't really be able to install more than a few games, sometimes only one at once, and it is the newer bigger games the benefit the best from SSDs.
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there is a new thing called Optane that intel introduced and would let you cache your HDD with an additional smaller SSD. I have no experience with it, but it is also an option with your mobo and it would increase the performance of your 1TB Western Digital Blue.
I'll probably pick up a Noctua NH-U14S for my new rig but that color man, it's gonna clash so hard with the rest of my build.
If you're concerned with aesthetics on your CPU cooler, you might check out Zalman's round coolers. I've used them in the past and they work great. Quiet and efficient.
This is just one, but they have a few color styles.
You will have to sacrifice approximately 5 virgins and sell your soul to mount the thing though.
I'm thinking the same thing.. but mine is a 4770. I'm getting the AOC 165MHz G-Sync 27" IPS monitor and a new GPU. That's about my budget of $1300 lol. So, I'll have to stick with the 4770 cpu/ram combo I'm with now so I can get the 1080 Ti + AOC monitor.
So how is the 4790k holding up for 1440p? I'm planning to upgrade my monitor to 1440p/144Hz/G-sync and my GPU to something that can push high framerates at that resolution (1080ti or 1170/Volta equivalent). Not sure if I will be bottlenecked by the CPU.
Also, if I do decide to upgrade the CPU, is anyone successfully running Windows 7 on the newer Intel gens or Ryzen?
Is there an issue with the i7-7700K or is it only if you want to overclock? I've been thinking about building another rig with an i7.
I added in the SSD but it brings up the message saying. "The motherboard M.2 slot #0 shares bandwidth with a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA 6Gb/s port is disabled." Any idea how to fix this?
In general the 7700k is about 15% faster than a 4790k. Pretty much irrelevant for 1080p/1440p/4k @ 60 fps, but the extra power will help you to reach very high frame rates more consistent and for longer periods of time. Is it worth spending $600 for a new CPU, RAM and MB to reach 100 fps in Watch_Dogs 2 instead of 88 fps on your old CPU?
AMD and Intel both do not support windows 7 anymore. But most mb manufacturers still offer dirvers for their ryzen and kabylake products. That said, installing a fresh win7 could be annoying and you could run into problems with USB and SATA drivers during installation.
Just a quick footnote: If you aim for consistent and very high frame rates (and nothing else) the 7700k is the superior CPU in comparison to even the 1800x (at least for now).
Can anyone answer whether or not the Noctua D-15 will block the PCI slot on the AsRock Taichi Mobo for Ryzen? If so, does moving the GPU to the second slot make a difference?
That's just how the Mobo works, a SSD could be connected in either of them and you lose one if you use the other. Just leave SATA 0 empty when you connect anything else.
Now that I think about it, I'll wait to see what the refresh looks like in June-August. Ugh. I don't wanna grab a 1070 now, and in a month the 2070 will be out...
The 2070 will be out on like 10 years, the 1170 should be out later this year though.Now that I think about it, I'll wait to see what the refresh looks like in June-August. Ugh. I don't wanna grab a 1070 now, and in a month the 2070 will be out...
What is the nomenclature like going forward? Wouldn't it be an 1170? But I get your point either way, just curious about names.
The 2070 will be out on like 10 years, the 1170 should be out later this year though.
NVIDIA GeForce 20 Pascal Refresh For 2017 Allegedly Includes GTX 2080 Ti, 2080 & 2070 Cards With GDDR5X Memory & Faster Clock Speeds
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9rWMQV
Tweaked it again and added in an SSD Drive so should this work now?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9rWMQV
Tweaked it again and added in an SSD Drive so should this work now?
Yeah I take everything from them with a grain of salt. Plus why would NVIDIA jump so many numbers? We really won't know what they will call them until they announce them.Lol.. I was just going off this:
http://wccftech.com/nvidia-pascal-volta-gpu-leaked-2017-2018/
partial quote:
Also: http://wccftech.com/nvidia-geforce-20-volta-graphics-card-q3-2017/