I'd stand pat and jump from good to great (when volta comes out) rather than good to very good.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
I'd stand pat and jump from good to great (when volta comes out) rather than good to very good.
nogoodnamesleft
Banned
Sweet. Thanks guys. Was literally putting the Ti in my cart nearly everyday and then thinking mmmmm Volta tho
foxuzamaki
Doesn't read OPs, especially not his own
So its been a while but I have been getting around to building my PC, recommended to me by Abstrusity, I have managed to buy basically everything on the list he gave me here:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=204284877&postcount=20385
All except the GPU and CPU, I was planning on buying these during christmas but it turns out the GPU Had sold out, I thought waiting a lil while then checking in later it would be back in stock but it seems it never did.
So if anyone else have any alternatives to offer me? Note I have everything else except the GPU and CPU, so if I need to change the CPU(while keeping within the same price range, i guess) Im up for it.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=204284877&postcount=20385
All except the GPU and CPU, I was planning on buying these during christmas but it turns out the GPU Had sold out, I thought waiting a lil while then checking in later it would be back in stock but it seems it never did.
So if anyone else have any alternatives to offer me? Note I have everything else except the GPU and CPU, so if I need to change the CPU(while keeping within the same price range, i guess) Im up for it.
This should do just as good a job if not better. It's $20 more though so I don't know if that's a deal breaker.
foxuzamaki
Doesn't read OPs, especially not his own
Thanks alot!
Well because you already got the motherboard, it is a little late now, but a Ryzen 5 series would have been much better. If you want a cheap CPU, there is the Pentium G4560, alternatively you can get the the 7500 or 7600 I5 (newer processor to what you listed, the 7600 is $20 extra on Newegg).
Only issue could be the motherboard might need a bios update for these newer processors. How long ago did you get the motherboard and does it by any chance mention what bios it comes with? Looking at bios history, I think the 7.1 bios released last October updated CPU support.
Also, you really should be getting a SSD, it makes one of the biggest upgrades for doing anything on a computer and especially gaming. A mechanical hard drive results in exceedingly long load times in some games (think console load times) and often micro stuttering. Marvel Heroes for instance plays horribly off a hard drive when I moved it over to save on disc space on my SSD.
Gigabyte will have their X299 mobos going on preorder in 3 1/2 hours, will they announce the price, or is this a preorder to get the chance to buy one? How much are the mobos expected to go for? i7-7800X is MSRP at $389, will we be seeing these chips at that price, or is this like with GFX cards and the MSRP is off by like $200.00 for fresh cards?
Looking for some reasoning before I go ahead with any purchases.
Current PC:
I7 3820
8gb ddr3
Amd 7970
Looking at a new building a new system: https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/ynH
That's a fair idea of what I want (prices are AUD).
My question is, to save money would my current system be fine by upgrading the GPU only to the 1080ti. My current CPU should be fine right?
I would also add another 8gb of ddr3.
Currently gaming at 1080p but will be considering a 144hz screen in the short future.
Or
To hell with it and get the new rig?
Current PC:
I7 3820
8gb ddr3
Amd 7970
Looking at a new building a new system: https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/ynH
That's a fair idea of what I want (prices are AUD).
My question is, to save money would my current system be fine by upgrading the GPU only to the 1080ti. My current CPU should be fine right?
I would also add another 8gb of ddr3.
Currently gaming at 1080p but will be considering a 144hz screen in the short future.
Or
To hell with it and get the new rig?
My gal and I are at odds with sharing a desktop for gaming (I play league, she plays minecraft), I want to get her something that's decent enough for decent 1080p gaming and not too spacious. $800 is my budget. I'm not picky on either nvidia or amd for gpu. If anyone's able to help me, I'd much appreciate the time and effort. I've not made a pc in well over a decade and obtained my current one second hand, so I don't know which way to go. Should I just tinker around on pcpartpicker? Whew! Sorry if that came off rant-ish!
800 including monitor/mouse/keyboard?
You could save some money and go from M5 to M3 on the mobo. I believe the only difference is that M5 has SLI support.
Is she only going to be playing Minecraft? If not, are the other games graphically intense?
Bloodember
Member
First, why would you want to gimp yourself, if your going to get an X299 board get a CPU thats not a rebranded I7 7700K and missing alot of features the X299 platform offers. Plus the motherboards will be above $200 probably around $300.
won't need a mouse, as she's got one she prefers. Keyboard and monitor will need to be tacked on to that total, sorry I didn't specify.
She might do some skyrim as well with mods here and there which can be graphically intense. Minecraft seems like the big one, currently, though and she loves a good modded minecraft. hahaha..
Upgrading ram to 16 GB and overclocking your current CPU would be more than enough for the 1080 Ti. Although the 3820 isn't a K processor, it is still able to get above a 4 Ghz overclock following various guides out there, here are 2 examples for gigabyte or for Asus. Now if you can't produce a stable 4.4+ Ghz overclock, then I would seriously consider upgrading. Some people get as high as 5 Ghz with a 3820 but that probably requires far more voltage than you want to use.
That chip is cheap now, I'd rather get in on the new spec so I can do a CPU upgrade later than just have to go and get a new chip and mobo. I'm rocking an i5-750, so I don't want to upgrade into a dead-end 1151 socket, unless 2066 is going to be short-lived?
I would like to spend an extra 200 on a better CPU, but I'd already be spending on pretty much a 100% new system, so I have to find cost-savings somewhere.
I was running Skyrim (not SE) on Ultra at around 30 FPS with a 560 Ti, 4 GB RAM and i5 2500K @ 4.0 GHZ
I'd say go with a 1060, 8 GB RAM and i5 7600
This, before any other parts, should run around $500 or so.
RumblingRosco
Member
I thought the dates were roughly "late June" or "sometime in August."
Still mid June IMO.
Consider Kraken x62 instead of the H115i.
I went from a Corsair H100 that I had for a couple of years to the Kraken, and I really like it. It feels a bit more premium than the Corsair offerings, and the pump is the best looking out of the current AIO offerings imo.
The Corsair stuff is fine too, just throwing an alternate suggestion. The 280mm rad doesn't make THAT much of a difference over 240mm, but it is there. If you're wanting to save some money a 240mm AIO will be just fine.
You might have a point here.
Reasoning behind the need for a OC? I've never been one to follow overclocking and the methods behind it. I'll check your links but I don't think this is a route I'd like to take.
Get the Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 240 instead
How do I overclock my VRAM? Probably such a stupid question but I would like to be sure before I start to tinker with anything. Is it the memory clock?
So I messed with the pc part picker site and followed in spurts the guide on the front of the page. This is my current list.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rCwQsJ
That's $797.04 without a keyboard, as of yet, but I'm leaving that to her. Does this look well enough?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rCwQsJ
That's $797.04 without a keyboard, as of yet, but I'm leaving that to her. Does this look well enough?
Big Chungus
Member
Anyone know why a newly installed video card would be giving BSOD?
My cousin just got a 970 gtx, upgrading from a 570 gtx, it keeps giving him random crashes, sometimes he can play games fine for hours, then the next day his pc will just crash.
We wiped the old drivers using DDU and installed the drivers that came on the disc but it's still crashing, we checked the crash log and it gives us:
At first I thought it could be his power supply but it's a pretty good PSU, it's a Seasonic X760 Gold 750W PSU.
Anyone have any ideas?
My cousin just got a 970 gtx, upgrading from a 570 gtx, it keeps giving him random crashes, sometimes he can play games fine for hours, then the next day his pc will just crash.
We wiped the old drivers using DDU and installed the drivers that came on the disc but it's still crashing, we checked the crash log and it gives us:
Code:
Crash dump directory: C:\Windows\Minidump
Crash dumps are enabled on your computer.
On Sun 18/06/2017 5:20:52 PM your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\061817-6567-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: nvlddmkm.sys (nvlddmkm+0x88EEEF)
Bugcheck code: 0x1000007E (0xFFFFFFFFC0000005, 0xFFFFF8800F8BDEEF, 0xFFFFF88005BCB6C8, 0xFFFFF88005BCAF30)
Error: SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED_M
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\nvlddmkm.sys
product: NVIDIA Windows Kernel Mode Driver, Version 344.48
company: NVIDIA Corporation
description: NVIDIA Windows Kernel Mode Driver, Version 344.48
Bug check description: This indicates that a system thread generated an exception which the error handler did not catch.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
A third party driver was identified as the probable root cause of this system error. It is suggested you look for an update for the following driver: nvlddmkm.sys (NVIDIA Windows Kernel Mode Driver, Version 344.48 , NVIDIA Corporation).
Google query: NVIDIA Corporation SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED_MAt first I thought it could be his power supply but it's a pretty good PSU, it's a Seasonic X760 Gold 750W PSU.
Anyone have any ideas?
See if you can flash the vid card bios to a later version.
opticalmace
Member
Ignore the disc, download the latest drivers directly from nvidia's site.
Bloodember
Member
Looks good, but if you can push the RAM to 16GB it would be a much better.
opticalmace
Member
Some are convenient when transporting stuff.
Actually, what speed memory do you have and are you into emulating more recent consoles using Dolphin/CEMU? Those answers could make getting Kaby Lake more worth it.
The 7700k normally boosts to 4.5 ghz without any overclock (or you can overclock to that speed full time), so to get similar performance in 1080p/1440p gaming today with an older processor, it is a good idea to overclock to around that much. When comparing the 7700K and a Sandy bridge 2700k both at 4.5 GHz, there was actually only a 20-30% difference in frame rates when tested at a super low resolution like 480p that isn't GPU bound. When both are at 4.5 ghz at 1440p ultra, the difference is significantly less, sometimes negligible. That is why I was saying getting a nice 4.5 Ghz overclock could really help with a 1080 Ti and get similar performance to a new Kaby Lake.
There are some caveats to that. If you are into CPU intensive tasks such as emulation or non-gaming tasks, then a new CPU would be worth it. Also, the memory situation could influence whether you want to upgrade. If you are using slow 1333 or 1600 DDR3, that could really be holding you back and do you really want to spend the money to replace all your slow DDR3 memory to faster 2133/2400 when instead you could get DDR4 at 3000 or above? However, if you have 2133/2400 DDR3 memory already, the upgrade to DDR4 might not be very noticeable in gaming aside from games very sensitive to memory speeds.
At the very least, I'd keep the box to your video card since I'd imagine you'd be selling it when upgrading to the next one within the next year or 2. A box helps to package it properly for shipping and adds a little bit extra value for Ebay sales. I also like to keep the motherboard box to store extra parts/cables/screws and the manual. The rest you don't really need to keep, but hold on to them for at least 30 days in case you need to return the item to the shop where you bought it for being defective.
Bloodember
Member
I keep all my boxes, as I normally sell them when I upgrade.
Current memory speed is 1600. And no, not interested in emulation, current and future game releases interest me more.
Picked up a 1080 and my games run great... but video playback is now stuffed, the audio slowly gets out of sync until the audio keeps on stuttering so that the video can catch up. I've tried any number of codec packs, base mpc-hc, base mpv, base vlc - all of which worked perfectly before on my 290x. I'm also experiencing a bit of audio popping as well, any ideas?
Buggy Loop
Gold Member
Hey guys.
Here's the situation. I'm going desktop -> HTPC. Node 202 is on the way.
1) I'm keeping my 850 evo 250GB SSD for main with OS
2) I'm looking for a good ammount of storage for steam library with a 2nd 2.5" drive (node 202 has no place for 3.5".
Are Seagate Firecuda 2TB SSHD (hybrid) reliable? Would the ssd part make even a difference for steam games after a few loads?
Or WD 7200 rpm black or 5400 rpm blue ?
Just steam games.
Here's the situation. I'm going desktop -> HTPC. Node 202 is on the way.
1) I'm keeping my 850 evo 250GB SSD for main with OS
2) I'm looking for a good ammount of storage for steam library with a 2nd 2.5" drive (node 202 has no place for 3.5".
Are Seagate Firecuda 2TB SSHD (hybrid) reliable? Would the ssd part make even a difference for steam games after a few loads?
Or WD 7200 rpm black or 5400 rpm blue ?
Just steam games.
ISee
Member
It should hold out a couple of years. I still have an old 250gb baracuda hdd in my PC. It is now ~10 years old and still holding. (Was my gaming hdd on my q9550 PC. I'm using it as a download/dump drive today). In general drives hold out pretty long, most of the time.
Performance wise, yes it will be an improvement after a couple of loads, especially for MP games you like to play often.
And no matter what you do. Don't get a 5400 rpm drive!
Edit:
If your MB isn't too old chances are high for it to support M.2 or even NVMe drives. You could hold on to your current SSD for games and get a small m.2 drive for your OS this way (~80gb are cgeap and more than enough. M.2/NVMe doesn't take up room in the case). This way you could add another 250-500 gb ssd in the future.
Anyone in here have any experience in CPU cooling within a Fractal Design Node 202?
Got an i5-4690k and would like a mild overclock on it, just seems to be a bit of a nightmare in this case.
Seen people suggest the Cryorig c7 or Noctua L9i with another 120mm fan attached to the top of the case pointing down to keep it cool, or a Thermalright AXP 100 on its own just about fits if you remove the dust filter (not something I am too happy doing, computer will be on a wooden floor that can get dusty, could get an external magnetic filter and slap it on but would rather it all be contained).
Any tips? Been researching all weekend and still not 100% sure :/
Got an i5-4690k and would like a mild overclock on it, just seems to be a bit of a nightmare in this case.
Seen people suggest the Cryorig c7 or Noctua L9i with another 120mm fan attached to the top of the case pointing down to keep it cool, or a Thermalright AXP 100 on its own just about fits if you remove the dust filter (not something I am too happy doing, computer will be on a wooden floor that can get dusty, could get an external magnetic filter and slap it on but would rather it all be contained).
Any tips? Been researching all weekend and still not 100% sure :/
ISee
Member
You are on a pascal card, I assume (just a guess seeing tge clocks).
Nothing to worry about, GPUs have different clock states build in. 966 MHz is probably way below your max boost clock.
If you don't like it, just deactivate the GPU support in the chrome settings.
Is that the "use hardware acceleration when available" option in the settings?
ISee
Member
Can't check atm, but most probably yes.
RumblingRosco
Member
Rumor is that the Etherium mining market is going to dry up a bit soon. Well, to be specific, GPUs with VRAM of less than or equal to 4 GB will no longer be as effective due to the growing DAG size of Etherium mining. The RX 470 and 480 4 GB should start popping up on second-hand markets once this happens.
We can only hope. I'm not expecting a huge change, but this should provide some alleviation to the stressed GPU market, which could also help nVidia cards a bit.
We can only hope. I'm not expecting a huge change, but this should provide some alleviation to the stressed GPU market, which could also help nVidia cards a bit.
try one of their older drivers, like 378 I think? Nvidia drivers have been complete shit the past year or so, one out of every handful of updates are actually stable.
RumblingRosco
Member
Question: is there a way I can make a USB-bootable version of a few software CDs I own? I have a 2010 Microsoft Office physical CD and a Photoshop CS5 physical CD with the serial numbers that I purchased legally quite a few years ago. They still are totally perfect for the uses I need for them so I don't want to spend money upgrading. However, my new PC I plan to build won't have an optical drive, and these are the last 2 discs that still matter to me. Is there a way I can "rip" them to a USB drive or something to have them backed up in a non-CD format to install on my new PC?
I could buy or find an external CD drive, but I'd really rather not spend the money or time on that if possible. Any advice is appreciated.
I could buy or find an external CD drive, but I'd really rather not spend the money or time on that if possible. Any advice is appreciated.
ISee
Member
You should be able to just copy the DVDs 1:1 to usb drives (direct paste and copy). You can than install the software by executing the coresponding setup/install exe files.
This was at least the case for older versions.
If that doesn't work you can rip an iso of the DVD, copy that iso file to an usb drive and than mount that iso with a virtual drive software.
It's also convenient if you need to RMA something. I've had to return stuff within the warranty period before, and the box the stuff comes in is designed to keep the product safe during shipping.
They should be an option for doing video decoding on the card or the CPU, check the options and see what is currently doing it.
RumblingRosco
Member
Alright, thanks. I'll try method #1 first then #2 if that fails. Seems simple enough.