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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

In the market for a new MOBO and looking for suggestions.

Needs to fit:
CPU: i7-6700K
RAM: 2 x 8gb 2133 DDR4
EVGA GTX 1080

Would like to have:
M.2 connection for at least 1 of my SSDs

Must have:
RGB lighting.
 

Pachimari

Member
Can someone help me explain my overclock? I'm in MSI Afterburner, and my core clock is set to 966MHz while my memory clock is at 3206MHz, as I have added 100MHz to the core clock and 200MHz to the memory clock. This is apparently when I am not doing anything on my computer, yet when I start playing games these numbers do not increase. Why is that?
uXrWeTm.png
 
Hope the X299 situation gets resolved relatively soon after launch. Begging Intel to let me upgrade, but so far the early reports aren't too promising.

I wouldn't be surprised if there are some bios/firmware things that will get hammered out by launch date... but who knows. Waiting on more reviews.
 

Vipu

Banned
I'm asking again to have more opinions but would a i5 3570k @4.2 bottleneck a gtx 1080ti for gaming at 1440p (preferably 144/165hz with gsync).

it feels weird to have had the same cpu for so long that I feel like a deer watching incoming headlights and don't know when its time to upgrade considering that I want to play recent games and upcoming ones at ultra.

It totally bottlenecks at those frames.
 
D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
I've been looking into getting the Asus PB328Q lately. Its only 60hz and no Gsync but its damn big and I think my 1080x3770k can run pretty much anything I want to play at a solid locked 60 with RVSS so I think it should quite a decent experience. I'll probably still keep my POS 144hz TN panel for the odd match of CS or whatever.

The price on the 32in sure is right.

I can't help but notice all the Amazon descriptions tout an IPS panel while the TomsHardware Review states it has a VA panel. Anyone encounter this before?

IDK. It's gonna be better than my TN panel either way but it is sorta curious.
 
Microcenter has bundle deals that make the Ryzen 1700x cost the same as the 1700. Is there any reason I shouldn't get the 1700x? Is the increased TDP a reason to stick to the 1700 only? I plan to air cool and only do a mild overclock if I were to get either, and I plan to use them for gaming, streaming, and frequent video editing/rendering.
 

kharma45

Member
Microcenter has bundle deals that make the Ryzen 1700x cost the same as the 1700. Is there any reason I shouldn't get the 1700x? Is the increased TDP a reason to stick to the 1700 only? I plan to air cool and only do a mild overclock if I were to get either, and I plan to use them for gaming, streaming, and frequent video editing/rendering.

If theyre the same price get the X.
 
If theyre the same price get the X.

I see the X doesn't come with the Wraith Spire cooler, but I have a Hyper 212+ that still works well. Looks like my local Microcenter carries an adapter for AM4 to make the H212+ work with AM4 sockets, and it only costs $0.99.

So, that would have been my only concern, having to spend more on a separate cooler... but this seems totally reasonable. Then some thermal paste for a couple of bucks and I'd be set. Thanks.
 

deim0s

Member
Quick questions guys... Planning to build a budget gaming PC after 8years.

An Intel B250 motherboard (MSI B250 mortar) and I'm thinking of getting either G4560 now and go i5-7600 in the future or go straight 7600 when budget allows.

Im not going to overclock this rig, are there further differences between non-K versions aside from no stock cooler and overclockability and clocks?

Performance difference between i5-7500 and 7600? Is the 7500 worth it at all for gaming?

RAM clocks, 2133 or go with 2400?

Am pairing the cpu (any of the above eventually) with a 1050ti... All good?
 
Quick questions guys... Planning to build a budget gaming PC after 8years.

An Intel B250 motherboard (MSI B250 mortar) and I'm thinking of getting either G4560 now and go i5-7600 in the future or go straight 7600 when budget allows.

Im not going to overclock this rig, are there further differences between non-K versions aside from no stock cooler and overclockability and clocks?

Performance difference between i5-7500 and 7600? Is the 7500 worth it at all for gaming?

RAM clocks, 2133 or go with 2400?

Am pairing the cpu (any of the above eventually) with a 1050ti... All good?

In that scenario the 1050 Ti is going to be your main bottleneck, so there's no harm in pairing it up with the G4560. If you're not planning to overclock, you'd be safe to go with the 7500 based on price and availability, though the most bang for your buck will come from picking up an i7-7700 instead.

RAM isn't too big an issue at your level, though admittedly 2400 is a nicer number.

As to your summation of K vs non-K, pretty much, though those clock speeds can make some difference. The thing with overclocking in that regard is that provides additional longevity to use of the part, particularly with how marginal Intel's individual gains on performance have been for a while. There's a reason a lot of people are still rocking i7-2600ks and the like
 

ISee

Member
Can someone help me explain my overclock? I'm in MSI Afterburner, and my core clock is set to 966MHz while my memory clock is at 3206MHz, as I have added 100MHz to the core clock and 200MHz to the memory clock. This is apparently when I am not doing anything on my computer, yet when I start playing games these numbers do not increase. Why is that?

Try raising the powerlimit.
 

Pachimari

Member
Try raising the powerlimit.
But I wonder, why are my base numbers so high? I saw someone else post his overclock, and when he isn't doing anything, the core clock and memory clock were only in the hundreds while mine is at 3000MHz while doing nothing. I'm afraid of damaging my card.
 
But I wonder, why are my base numbers so high? I saw someone else post his overclock, and when he isn't doing anything, the core clock and memory clock were only in the hundreds while mine is at 3000MHz while doing nothing. I'm afraid of damaging my card.

...Could it mean you're already running the overclock maybe? What card do you have? I know it says 780, but I'm curious as to which variant.
 
I'm going to overclock my i7-3770k, and need a proper water cooler for the job. I prefer Corsair, and space won't be an issue, and neither is noise. What's the best performance Corsair water cooler?

H110i gt its a 280mm rad. Get two more sp140 fans if noise and space and money arent issues.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm going to overclock my i7-3770k, and need a proper water cooler for the job. I prefer Corsair, and space won't be an issue, and neither is noise. What's the best performance Corsair water cooler?

Is there a reason why you discounted air cooling?
What speed you looking to achieve?
What case?
What's the current load vcore at stock under prime95? Use CPUz to measure.
If you have decent cooling see how the chip reacts to some moderate overclocking to judge potential.

I was running 3770@4.25ghz 1.1v on a hyper 212 silently in an ITX case.
 

Xion385

Member
Hi PC GAF. I needed some advice.

So I bought this "Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB 2133MHz DDR4". It was one sale at the time for $36, but now the price shot up to double. I was wondering you guys can help me find some cheaper 8GB RAM that I could pair my current one. Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB 2133MHz DDR4 Non-ECC CL14 DIMM Desktop Memory (HX421C14FB/8)
 

draliko

Member
Looks like a good list to me for your target.

But when discussing bottlenecking or upgrading a CPU, I would encourage everyone to do actual measurements of their system load. Download MSI afterburner and watch the performance overlay. It will be obvious where things are bottlenecking. Personally in cases where I figured it was the CPU, it turned out to be something else.

I recommend a pragmatic approach - upgrade when the bottlenecks are happening now, not for predicted bottlenecks later.
In the end i pulled the trigger, After 6 years I was bored and wanted to upgrade :) at least am4 will concede me another zen generation. Will update you guys when stuff ships and I'll be able to build everything, now I need to sell that 2500k :) any suggestion on how to optimize a win10 gaming machine, is there any tool or guide to slim the system or similar?
 
How does Microcenter not carry an AM4 mATX motherboard with a USB-C​ port? I know USB-C isn't huge yet, but I plan to keep this build for five years and I think I'll be regretting it if I don't have USB-C in there. I'm just surprised at the lack of options
 
But I wonder, why are my base numbers so high? I saw someone else post his overclock, and when he isn't doing anything, the core clock and memory clock were only in the hundreds while mine is at 3000MHz while doing nothing. I'm afraid of damaging my card.

You probably have your power setting in Nvidia control panel set to Maximum Performance.
 

Envelope

sealed with a kiss
How does Microcenter not carry an AM4 mATX motherboard with a USB-C​ port? I know USB-C isn't huge yet, but I plan to keep this build for five years and I think I'll be regretting it if I don't have USB-C in there. I'm just surprised at the lack of options
ASRock b350m pro4 and the MSI mortar series have usbb C
 
So I just ordered the following to build a new PC, please criticize and let me know what you think! My biggest worry is if I should have gone with a Ryzen 1700 instead:

i7 7700K
1080ti
Z270 MSI Pro Gaming Carbon Board
Phantek Enthoo Pro Case
Samsung 960 250gb evo m.2 ssd
Samsung 850 500gb evo ssd
16gb ddr4-3000 ram
+ My already existing 4tb in HDD storage
+ My already existing 30" dell 3011 IPS 2560x1600 10-bit panel

I'll be really over-powered for 1600p 60hz, but my plan is to get a 1440p 144hz hdr panel next year.
 

fuzzyset

Member
Not sure if this is the right spot, but I have some headset Qs. I've been looking into surround sound headsets. It seems most headsets are just stereo, but with some virtual surround sound pre-processing happening in a dongle or software. The internet consensus is that 'real' surround sound headsets aren't that great because all the individual drivers are so small and the spatial isolation they can create is minimal anyhow. Is this true? I shelled out for the Sennheiser Game Ones a couple years back, so I really just want to stick with those.

I have a 'nice' gaming motherboard (MSI Z97 Gaming 5) that has an extra headset amp that can be connected to the PSU. Most of the reviews for the Game Ones say that they really need an external amp. Are these gaming mobo dedicated amps enough? The headset gets pretty loud as is. I'm listening to music now, and it's pretty loud at 30% volume.

Last q: would an external amp/dac (e.g. the Sound Blaster G5) improve the surround sound processing? The mobo came with Sound Blaster Cinema 2 which can do virtual surround sound. I'm not sure how well it works though. It currently sounds OK. It's nothing like a real external 5.1 system though. I'm not sure how good these virtual solutions are.
 

ISee

Member
But I wonder, why are my base numbers so high? I saw someone else post his overclock, and when he isn't doing anything, the core clock and memory clock were only in the hundreds while mine is at 3000MHz while doing nothing. I'm afraid of damaging my card.

Now I understand your problem. Your GPU is always at the max boost clock speed, even when doing nothing with it. Yeah, that shouldn't be the case on a 780 (obviously).

1.) Check graphics activity with GPU-Z
2.) Check if Geforce Experience/Shadow Play is recording. Try uninstalling it.
3.) Check if Windows 10 GameDVR is activated.
4.) Check the energy settings in the nvidia control panel, if it is in performance mode change it.
5.) If nothing helps uninstall afterburner/rtts, reboot and than uninstall your nvidia drivers with DDU. Reinstall everything (drivers first, obviously) and recheck again.
 

Pachimari

Member
...Could it mean you're already running the overclock maybe? What card do you have? I know it says 780, but I'm curious as to which variant.

I have the one from Evga.

Try raising the powerlimit.

You probably have your power setting in Nvidia control panel set to Maximum Performance.

Now I understand your problem. Your GPU is always at the max boost clock speed, even when doing nothing with it. Yeah, that shouldn't be the case on a 780 (obviously).

1.) Check graphics activity with GPU-Z
2.) Check if Geforce Experience/Shadow Play is recording. Try uninstalling it.
3.) Check if Windows 10 GameDVR is activated.
4.) Check the energy settings in the nvidia control panel, if it is in performance mode change it.
5.) If nothing helps uninstall afterburner/rtts, reboot and than uninstall your nvidia drivers with DDU. Reinstall everything (drivers first, obviously) and recheck again.

Oh, wow wow wow, so I went into Nvidia Control Panel (I have rarely ever used it), and I changed the "Power Management Mode" to "Adaptive" instead of the "Prefer maximum performance" it was at before. And now my core and memory clock looks like this:


I guess I can go overclock my card now. So since my memory clock were at 3000Mhz before, wouldn't that mean I can overclock it with 2700MHz for better performance in games?
 
ASRock b350m pro4 and the MSI mortar series have usbb C

I can't find the mATX Mortar on their website, and the ASRock is out of stock locally unfortunately. Gonna call them later to see if that ASRock can be ordered and still used with the $100 off combo deal though. Thanks for that.
 

Mozendo

Member
Hi PC GAF. I needed some advice.

So I bought this "Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB 2133MHz DDR4". It was one sale at the time for $36, but now the price shot up to double. I was wondering you guys can help me find some cheaper 8GB RAM that I could pair my current one. Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB 2133MHz DDR4 Non-ECC CL14 DIMM Desktop Memory (HX421C14FB/8)

As someone who's mixed and matched ram in the past, I had no issues mixing and matching as long as it was the same speed and cas latency.
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
I'm a fan of waiting for things. Unless it's a good deal, there's no real benefit to getting things right now, and all the potential benefits, with better parts always right around the corner. Plan, wait, execute. That's how I like to do it, anyway. There's always bad times to buy everything, this just seems like a particularly bad time to buy RAM, the GPU, and possibly the CPU depending on what you want.

This is just my interpretation of the market at this point time based on how I'm planning my next build. I'm planning on waiting as long as I have to. Yes, years if that's what it takes to get what I want at a certain price or performance. I just can't justify overpaying, or even paying MSRP. Whereas waiting is easy, and always wins.

EDIT: Looks like I'm not alone in thinking this is a bad time to buy PC parts.

While you wait, life goes by. If someone needs something and they can make use of it, they should. Has nothing to do with pricing if someone has the means to get it.
Only thing I could agree on is if someone is literally going to buy something and a better make/model comes out like a week after. But when something is coming out for months, half a year to a year, then I disagree. No matter when you buy something it's already obsolete because something new is always on the horizon.
Back in the day people would have tvs and electronics for a decade plus but the way things works now more people are upgrading in a shorter time. That itself drives companies to constantly come out with something better and overall people can benefit.
 

Easy Breezy

Neo Member
Hoping to get some feedback on this (originally posted about a week ago).


The parts I picked are probably way overkill for what I'd end up using it for, but I thought why not spend a bit extra for better parts when I'm already considering spending this much? Am I an idiot for thinking like this?

CPU: Intel -Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor - $468
CPU Cooler: At the moment I like the Cryorig H5 Universal ($49), but I'm interested in the Cryorig Quad Lumi.
Motherboard: ASRock - Z270 Taichi ATX LGA1151 Motherboard - $315
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory - $220
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive - $138
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive - $94
Video Card: GALAX - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB EX OC SNPR White Video Card - $749
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case - $149
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply - $155
Total:$2524


I chose some parts that cost a little extra purely based on looks which I feel really stupid for doing (mainly the Motherboard, but I do like the features it has). Main questions relating to the parts above:
Is the storage ok, or is there better options for around the same price?
Is the power supply enough for the above build?
Any people with experience with certain parts here?
 

jeffc919

Member
Kind of at a loss as to how to fix this problem. My new PC was running great....so of course I had to tinker and mess it all up.

I have an ASUS STRIX Z270G mATX motherboard with an i7 7700k CPU and a 1x16GB g.skill ripjaws 3200MHZ RAM DIMM.

When I built the PC the only thing I changed in the BIOS was to change the RAM frequency from AUTO to 3200MHz and all was good.

So yesterday I decided to install the ASUS AI Suite and run the Dual Intelligent Processors 5 tool to see what it would come up with for overclocking. Later after having issues I uninstalled the entire ASUS AI suite, reset my BIOS to factory defaults, and set my RAM frequency back to 3200MHz.

The problem I'm having now is that my PC is only running halfway decent with the RAM set to AUTO which puts it at 2133MHz. If It try to bump it back up to 3200 as it was before I messed around with anything, my games are unplayable and a benchmark tool called UserBenchMark gives me abysmal scores for my CPU.

I also tried unplugging the PC, clearing the CMOS pins, and pulling the battery on the motherboard in a futile effort to get the thing back to a factory default configuration that would hopefully let me set the RAM speed back to 3200 without issue. I also tried loading a Windows 10 restore point from a couple days ago to get it back to a state before installing the ASUS AI suite in case that is having some residual effect.

Lastly, I tried loading the XMP profile in the BIOS rather than simply bumping up the RAM frequency by itself, but this has the same problem.

Not sure what to try next. I could fully reinstall Windows in case this is a Windows issue and not a BIOS issue but that seems like a lot of work for a long shot. I could downgrade the BIOS to an earlier version (part of the AI suite installation updated the BIOS). But neither loading factory defaults in the BIOS nor clearing the CMOS worked so I'm skeptical reflashing the BIOS will help either.

I definitely appreciate any suggestions for things to try. At least my PC seems to be back in a usable state now in the meantime, however in less than optimal shape with the RAM clocked slower than it should be.
 
Kind of at a loss as to how to fix this problem. My new PC was running great....so of course I had to tinker and mess it all up.

I have an ASUS STRIX Z270G mATX motherboard with an i7 7700k CPU and a 1x16GB g.skill ripjaws 3200MHZ RAM DIMM.

When I built the PC the only thing I changed in the BIOS was to change the RAM frequency from AUTO to 3200MHz and all was good.

So yesterday I decided to install the ASUS AI Suite and run the Dual Intelligent Processors 5 tool to see what it would come up with for overclocking. Later after having issues I uninstalled the entire ASUS AI suite, reset my BIOS to factory defaults, and set my RAM frequency back to 3200MHz.

The problem I'm having now is that my PC is only running halfway decent with the RAM set to AUTO which puts it at 2133MHz. If It try to bump it back up to 3200 as it was before I messed around with anything, my games are unplayable and a benchmark tool called UserBenchMark gives me abysmal scores for my CPU.

I also tried unplugging the PC, clearing the CMOS pins, and pulling the battery on the motherboard in a futile effort to get the thing back to a factory default configuration that would hopefully let me set the RAM speed back to 3200 without issue. I also tried loading a Windows 10 restore point from a couple days ago to get it back to a state before installing the ASUS AI suite in case that is having some residual effect.

Lastly, I tried loading the XMP profile in the BIOS rather than simply bumping up the RAM frequency by itself, but this has the same problem.

Not sure what to try next. I could fully reinstall Windows in case this is a Windows issue and not a BIOS issue but that seems like a lot of work for a long shot. I could downgrade the BIOS to an earlier version (part of the AI suite installation updated the BIOS). But neither loading factory defaults in the BIOS nor clearing the CMOS worked so I'm skeptical reflashing the BIOS will help either.

I definitely appreciate any suggestions for things to try. At least my PC seems to be back in a usable state now in the meantime, however in less than optimal shape with the RAM clocked slower than it should be.
Try setting your rams voltage and timings manually. Put it at a lower clock speed initially to make sure it's stable.
 
Y'all is it worth upgrading to Ryzen or Kaby Lake if you have an AMD FX-8320?

All I'm wanting to do is get a new CPU, mobo, PSU, case and RAM... and my budget for this is under $500.

I'll probably stick to 1080p for a few more years but more importantly, I do a lot of video editing work(Premiere Pro and After Effects) so that's something that needs to be considered as well.

My current PC is getting long in the tooth, I built it early 2013 and I'm still rocking a AMD HD7850 1GB video card haha. But that'll be upgraded soon with a GTX 1060 as soon as I'm done upgrading the CPU, well that's if I decide to go with the CPU upgrade.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

ISee

Member
I guess I can go overclock my card now. So since my memory clock were at 3000Mhz before, wouldn't that mean I can overclock it with 2700MHz for better performance in games?

Vram overclocking is always tricky as there is no way to check if it is overheating. In general: if you see flickering, some kind of artifacts, weird textures or a black screen, dial back. There is often enough also a point of diminishing and even reduced performance. I can for example oc my vram by +700 MHz, but everything above +510 MHz starts to influence performance negatively. So I settled for 'just' +500 MHz.
 
Y'all is it worth upgrading to Ryzen or Kaby Lake if you have an AMD FX-8320?

All I'm wanting to do is get a new CPU, mobo, PSU, case and RAM... and my budget for this is under $500.

I'll probably stick to 1080p for a few more years but more importantly, I do a lot of video editing work(Premiere Pro and After Effects) so that's something that needs to be considered as well.

My current PC is getting long in the tooth, I built it early 2013 and I'm still rocking a AMD HD7850 1GB video card haha. But that'll be upgraded soon with a GTX 1060 as soon as I'm done upgrading the CPU, well that's if I decide to go with the CPU upgrade.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I definitely would if I were you (particularly if you're using it for video editing).
 
Y'all is it worth upgrading to Ryzen or Kaby Lake if you have an AMD FX-8320?

All I'm wanting to do is get a new CPU, mobo, PSU, case and RAM... and my budget for this is under $500.

I'll probably stick to 1080p for a few more years but more importantly, I do a lot of video editing work(Premiere Pro and After Effects) so that's something that needs to be considered as well.

My current PC is getting long in the tooth, I built it early 2013 and I'm still rocking a AMD HD7850 1GB video card haha. But that'll be upgraded soon with a GTX 1060 as soon as I'm done upgrading the CPU, well that's if I decide to go with the CPU upgrade.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Assuming that budget isn't inclusive of the GTX 1060...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($195.69 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman - T2 Plus MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($30.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $471.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-18 15:55 EDT-0400

You can tweak this further as you wish - maybe get a different case, bump down to the 1500X, etc. But it's a good framework for what you're after.

Edit: But yes, Ryzen is a massive improvement if you game at 1080p, and do a lot of editing work.
 

jeffc919

Member
Try setting your rams voltage and timings manually. Put it at a lower clock speed initially to make sure it's stable.

So, I tried forcing the voltage to ~1.35v with the frequency at 3200 and I had the same problem. Seems that any time I tried to bump up the RAM frequency it would push the CPU down to 800MHz.Tried a couple other things to no avail.

So what DID work was to downgrade the BIOS to the previous version. I don't know if the most current BIOS has an issue or just the act of reflashing it cleared up whatever issue I was having but at this point I'm inclined to just quit while I'm ahead and leave it alone.

Thanks for the reply earlier. Appreciated.
 
I definitely would if I were you (particularly if you're using it for video editing).

Assuming that budget isn't inclusive of the GTX 1060...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($195.69 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman - T2 Plus MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($30.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $471.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-18 15:55 EDT-0400

You can tweak this further as you wish - maybe get a different case, bump down to the 1500X, etc. But it's a good framework for what you're after.

Edit: But yes, Ryzen is a massive improvement if you game at 1080p, and do a lot of editing work.

Thanks for the tips, here's my current Ryzen 1600 build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($195.69 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Case: DIYPC - Solo-T1-R ATX Mid Tower Case ($31.97 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Thermaltake - TR2 600W ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $454.62
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-18 16:25 EDT-0400

Anything I should change?

Couple of notes... I personally don't care about the look of the case as it's under my desk anyway... and as for the PSU, is 550W going to be enough to power a that build + GTX 1060?

Thanks again for the suggestions!
 
Thanks for the tips, here's my current Ryzen 1600 build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($195.69 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Case: DIYPC - Solo-T1-R ATX Mid Tower Case ($31.97 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Thermaltake - TR2 600W ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $454.62
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-18 16:25 EDT-0400

Anything I should change?

Couple of notes... I personally don't care about the look of the case as it's under my desk anyway... and as for the PSU, is 550W going to be enough to power a that build + GTX 1060?

Thanks again for the suggestions!

Well, Ryzen can benefit from higher RAM frequencies, though at the same time you'll still be having a substantial gain over the FX CPU so if you're okay with that, that'll be fine for keeping the cost down. Case looks like it could be a bit awkward to work in and around, due to have a case height drive cage, recommend something with a bit more open an interior.

A 550 watt power supply'll be plenty - Nvidia's own recommended minimum PSU for the card is 400 watts. And really, shouldn't cheap on PSU where you can, since a cheap one can kill your system. Plus in this case the corsair one is semi-modular, allowing you to remove cables as you wish.
 

bluntspoon

Neo Member
Y'all is it worth upgrading to Ryzen or Kaby Lake if you have an AMD FX-8320?

All I'm wanting to do is get a new CPU, mobo, PSU, case and RAM... and my budget for this is under $500.

I'll probably stick to 1080p for a few more years but more importantly, I do a lot of video editing work(Premiere Pro and After Effects) so that's something that needs to be considered as well.

My current PC is getting long in the tooth, I built it early 2013 and I'm still rocking a AMD HD7850 1GB video card haha. But that'll be upgraded soon with a GTX 1060 as soon as I'm done upgrading the CPU, well that's if I decide to go with the CPU upgrade.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I can only speak to the gaming side...the benefits to your editing would likely be more significant.

I would do the gpu first and see where you stand. Your current card is a bottleneck even for the 8320. A 1060 is likely to at least double your current frame rate.

Upgrading the CPU is going to get you minimal improvement in games (20%?) and while I know you said the gpu is soon after it's going to piss you off how little things improve for the money spent. You'll be shopping for a 1060 within 24 hours of install. If you go the 1060 first you get a big chunk increase and then another when you upgrade the CPU/MB. Phychomalogically speaking you'll feel better about the money spent.
 
Upgrading the CPU is going to get you minimal improvement in games (20%?) and while I know you said the gpu is soon after it's going to piss you off how little things improve for the money spent. You'll be shopping for a 1060 within 24 hours of install. If you go the 1060 first you get a big chunk increase and then another when you upgrade the CPU/MB. Phychomalogically speaking you'll feel better about the money spent.

This PC is indeed still perfectly fine, surprisingly I can still multitask with Premiere and After Effects easily and a GPU upgrade will definitely benefit since AMD/OpenCL is garbage with Adobe.

But I'll be honest... I don't even play games that much at all lol. My Xbone has taken over those duties but even then I really only play on the weekends or for an hour on a weekday. So gaming is sorta down the list of priorities for me.

It's definitely something that I'm considering too. Maybe I'll upgrade the video card first and later in the year upgrade when Ryzen or Kaby Lake prices start to go down even more.

Well, Ryzen can benefit from higher RAM frequencies, though at the same time you'll still be having a substantial gain over the FX CPU so if you're okay with that, that'll be fine for keeping the cost down. Case looks like it could be a bit awkward to work in and around, due to have a case height drive cage, recommend something with a bit more open an interior.

A 550 watt power supply'll be plenty - Nvidia's own recommended minimum PSU for the card is 400 watts. And really, shouldn't cheap on PSU where you can, since a cheap one can kill your system. Plus in this case the corsair one is semi-modular, allowing you to remove cables as you wish.

Lmao I didn't even notice the RAM frequencies... I had mine at 2400 since the mobo doesn't indicate it supports 3000.

Also is Superbiiz down? For some reason I can't access it, but I'm glad I can't coz I'm quite ready to pull the trigger on this but I think I'll wait for a couple more weeks. Hopefully there'll be some good July 4th sales coz that was also when I bought the parks for my current PC in 2013 lol.
 
This PC is indeed still perfectly fine, surprisingly I can still multitask with Premiere and After Effects easily and a GPU upgrade will definitely benefit since AMD/OpenCL is garbage with Adobe.

But I'll be honest... I don't even play games that much at all lol. My Xbone has taken over those duties but even then I really only play on the weekends or for an hour on a weekday. So gaming is sorta down the list of priorities for me.

It's definitely something that I'm considering too. Maybe I'll upgrade the video card first and later in the year upgrade when Ryzen or Kaby Lake prices start to go down even more.



Lmao I didn't even notice the RAM frequencies... I had mine at 2400 since the mobo doesn't indicate it supports 3000.

Also is Superbiiz down? For some reason I can't access it, but I'm glad I can't coz I'm quite ready to pull the trigger on this but I think I'll wait for a couple more weeks. Hopefully there'll be some good July 4th sales coz that was also when I bought the parks for my current PC in 2013 lol.

Oh, that's a fair point. Check what motherboards may or may not support higher frequencies, then pick out one of those, should they be within your budget. Either way, have fun with this!
 

Llyranor

Member
Not the best time to buy a new PC (GPU and RAM seems pricey), but I need to replace my dead one, so here we go:

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/tN6fZ8
(purely for gaming)

Just two questions:
1) In the OP spreadsheet, ASRock AB350M is listed as the recommended motherboard for the Ryzen build. I opted for the AB350 ATX but it should be the same otherwise. However, it's listed as supporting DDR4-2666 RAM but 3000 is not listed. However, that build suggests 3000 or 3200 RAM. Moreover, I've read that Ryzen's sweet spot may be closer to 2666 than 3000. With this, is 2666 preferable to 3000? The price is pretty much the same.

2) "The CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler may require a separately available mounting adapter to fit the ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard." From what I understand, an adapter kit from the cooler manufacturer might be required? I am planning to have it assembled by NCIX - is this likely to be a problem?

Any other comments/feedback would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks!

I would have picked a RX 580 8gb, but it's completely out of stock everywhere I checked online for Canada.
 
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