The only thing I can think of is make sure the cooler is in place and working. I had a PC years ago and the stupid intel cooler didn't really make good contact and it would take about 10-20 seconds before the CPU would heat up enough that the system would immediately shutdown to protect the processor. (It was those push thingies, they didn't hold the cooler down well at all.)
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"I Need a New PC!" 2020. Ray Tracing. 120Hz-360Hz. Next-Gen Already.
- Thread starter Leonidas
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I_D
Member
Thanks for the help, guys.
It makes sense, I suppose. Computer A is essentially just acting as a hard drive, then the ethernet is acting as a very long SATA cable.
I have the answer I need, so I'm good to go.
I am curious about what you mean regarding Plex, though.
Plex is software that you install on a device like a PC or raspberry PI and it acts like a media server it scrapes all the metadata from your movies and shows and music a and from from your other devices you can access it like your own personal Netflix. You can stream from within your home and even outside your network.
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Jack Videogames
Member
Yeah temps are fine. I've just passed a memtest, all good too.
I'm totally baffled. Next step would be getting a tech to take a look at it I guess.
Murr
Member
Can you actually boot into Windows? You say save mode doesnt work. Does it boot into the bios?
If the components all work maybe it a bad cable or something?
Jack Videogames
Member
Yeah it boots into windows but when I try to reset into safe mode or terminal it simply resets to a black screen
Cables are new and it also happened with the old cables
I think there might be corrosion on the case where the front panel cables go - but I'm not 100% sure
Jack Videogames
Member
Do you guys think this looks damaged?
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BusierDonkey
Member
Do you guys think this looks damaged?
That's pretty scuffed up but the only way to know if the front panel PCB is your issue would be to try to run your PC without it.
Depending on what mobo you have you might have a power button directly on the board itself. If not you can jump the pins that would go to that PCB with a screwdriver and power up the mobo that way.
If your PC stays on you know the front panel PCB is your issue.
I_D
Member
Alrighty, guys, got a weird one for you.
I have some type of issue with my sound. Basically everything is fine...
Except for human voices.
Every sound comes through clearly, but human voices are extremely quiet (not quite silent, but almost).
Movie files, music files, Youtube videos, etc.... it doesn't matter what it is. Every sound works completely perfectly, but any time a human being talks, it's damn near silent. I can still hear the background music and sound effects and whatnot without any issue, but the voice itself is basically gone.
Even animal sounds work just fine. This issue only affects human speech (and I also tested Oldboy, so it's not limited to a certain language).
Switching to my headphones, everything sounds great and is working perfectly.
Switching back to the speakers doesn't solve the issue.
EDIT: And to make it even more complicated, harmonized vocals sound exactly as they should.
This issue is only present when one person is singing/speaking.
And yes, the sound is coming through all speakers, so it's not like one of them randomly died.
Any ideas?
I have some type of issue with my sound. Basically everything is fine...
Except for human voices.
Every sound comes through clearly, but human voices are extremely quiet (not quite silent, but almost).
Movie files, music files, Youtube videos, etc.... it doesn't matter what it is. Every sound works completely perfectly, but any time a human being talks, it's damn near silent. I can still hear the background music and sound effects and whatnot without any issue, but the voice itself is basically gone.
Even animal sounds work just fine. This issue only affects human speech (and I also tested Oldboy, so it's not limited to a certain language).
Switching to my headphones, everything sounds great and is working perfectly.
Switching back to the speakers doesn't solve the issue.
EDIT: And to make it even more complicated, harmonized vocals sound exactly as they should.
This issue is only present when one person is singing/speaking.
And yes, the sound is coming through all speakers, so it's not like one of them randomly died.
Any ideas?
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I_D
Member
Well now I feel dumb, but I figured it out.
There's a button on the back of my sub called "Matrix" which I've never noticed before. One of my cats must have hit it or something, cause when I turned it off, everything is back to normal.
I'm the guy who's recent build buzzed like crazy. Opened my computer a couple of times, disconnected a fan to narrow it down to a fan. After an hour or so finally noticed "Hey, why is there a little sticker on this fan that probably doesn't belong here." Yeah, so you're having fun like me
PhoenixTank
Member
Lowered supply/supply chain strain. Increased demand from everyone and their mother that wants/needs to video call/work from home. Separate device for kids for school while parents are working.
Hawking Radiation
Member
First post in this thread. Yeah GAF, I'm going PC but need help/advice.
First, the components I have my eye on so far:
RTX 3060 Ti or 3070:
- I can pick up either of these for $1000 NZ dollars. There is only a $50 difference.
- Also plan to overclock either of these when I get it so does brand matter? MSI, EVGA, Gigabyte etc.
RAM:
3200Mhz vs 3600Mhz
Is there any noticeable difference between these in terms of performance. Is it worth spending more for 3600Mhz in current games?
CPU:
Ryzen 5 5600x
I think this should be enough to pair with 3060 Ti or 3070 and gaming at 1440p.
Motherboard:
No idea which one to go for here and may be the area I need help with the most.
Case:
Too many nice cases out there so not too fussed about picking up one that I like.
CPU Cooler:
AIO Watercooler or Air cooler for CPU?
Leaning towards the AIO Watercooler side. I don't want big bulky CPU air coolers interrupting case airflow. For me having a big bulky lump of metal and plastic right in the middle of the case looks not so good.
PSU:
This route I will go for fully modular and 750W+
Will just stick to good well known brands in this area.
SSD:
Pretty much have to go with NVME and will get 1TB size. Also will keep a lookout for fastest possible speeds here as to stay current with upcoming next gen games.
So GAF, I'm looking for a 1440p build here. 4K is too much as I would need a 3080 and that is just too much money for me. I could get away with pushing some games to 4K and only manage 30FPS and that is fine with me.
So far I know the 3060 Ti matches up well with Ryzen 5 5600x.
I just need help with choosing Ram and a good motherboard.
First, the components I have my eye on so far:
RTX 3060 Ti or 3070:
- I can pick up either of these for $1000 NZ dollars. There is only a $50 difference.
- Also plan to overclock either of these when I get it so does brand matter? MSI, EVGA, Gigabyte etc.
RAM:
3200Mhz vs 3600Mhz
Is there any noticeable difference between these in terms of performance. Is it worth spending more for 3600Mhz in current games?
CPU:
Ryzen 5 5600x
I think this should be enough to pair with 3060 Ti or 3070 and gaming at 1440p.
Motherboard:
No idea which one to go for here and may be the area I need help with the most.
Case:
Too many nice cases out there so not too fussed about picking up one that I like.
CPU Cooler:
AIO Watercooler or Air cooler for CPU?
Leaning towards the AIO Watercooler side. I don't want big bulky CPU air coolers interrupting case airflow. For me having a big bulky lump of metal and plastic right in the middle of the case looks not so good.
PSU:
This route I will go for fully modular and 750W+
Will just stick to good well known brands in this area.
SSD:
Pretty much have to go with NVME and will get 1TB size. Also will keep a lookout for fastest possible speeds here as to stay current with upcoming next gen games.
So GAF, I'm looking for a 1440p build here. 4K is too much as I would need a 3080 and that is just too much money for me. I could get away with pushing some games to 4K and only manage 30FPS and that is fine with me.
So far I know the 3060 Ti matches up well with Ryzen 5 5600x.
I just need help with choosing Ram and a good motherboard.
GreatnessRD
Member
Grab the 3070 if the price difference is only $50. Will definitely hold up longer, imo. None of the brand are bad, but I'd say EVGA has the better CS policies and overclock pretty good.
Ryzen loves higher speeds, so I'd say go for 3600. My RAM CL is currently 18, but if you're willing to spend a little more, get CL16 RAM with 3600Mhz. Will be butter, but CL18 is more than fine, too.
This will be more than enough
If all you're doing is gaming, I'd say grab a B550 motherboard. Brand depends on your personal preference. I.E aesthetics, wi-fi needs. I've used Asus and MSI boards personally. Like the looks of the Asus boards better.
Just get something with decent airflow. Everyone loves the Meshify C. I currently have the be quiet! Silent Base 802 Airflow version
I personally like Air cooling, but AIO is more than fine. Go with the AIO since you like the look of that better. They'll both do the job just fine as the 5600x is a 65tdp part.
Yup. Corsair, Seasonic, be quiet are pretty good. If you head to Linus tech tip forums, they have tier list over there that might be helpful.
Samsung, Western Digital, Seagate, etc they're all fine NVME's and you'll be fine with either Gen3 or 4 parts.
1440p also appears to be the sweet spot for gaming right now. 4K looks to be creeping up for PC gamers. 3060Ti will be great, but as I said, for $50 I'd take the 3070 all day. I wanted the 5600x and 3070, but I built my newer rig early December, so parts were scarce. Currently using a Ryzen 7 3700x and MSI Ventus 2x OC 3060Ti. Haven't had any issues and gaming is joyus. Plan to upgrade my monitor to a 1440p soon as well, so with your current list of ideas, you'll have a ton of fun. Good luck with your building and choices.
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Yerd
Member
You tried these steps all at once, or one at a time? Also, you tried all those things and it's still resetting after each change?
If you did multiple at once, then it's hard to find the answer if you did or did not solve it. Need to go methodically. 1 item at a time and rule out that culprit. That front panel in your later post might be an issue. Also check for any shorts, like motherboard making contact with the case or other metal touching. Try with the MB out of the case sat on a box. Does it reboot if you just sit in the bios menu? When you tried different PSU, did you use the new cable that plugs to the wall?
I had a coolermaster HAF case where the USB ports in the front panel would shock me if I touched them. Never bothered to find out what was up, just bought a new case, I hate steel cases. Aluminum or death.
Kenpachii
Member
If you replaced your entire PC, then at this point i would say maybe its your case making contact with your motherboard. or a part is overheating. Go into the bios and check if temps are right for your CPU. and remove the GPU and use the integrated gpu while u are at it. and see the board crashes while being in the bios.
Jack Videogames
Member
Yeah
I tried the steps one by one, to see where the problem might have been. And yeh, I'm using the new cables that came with the new PSU. I even tried using different peripherals (mouse, monitor, keyboard, etc.) just in case.
It's weird because when I did the several-hours-long memtest I had no reboots, but once I got into Windows, zing.
And yes the case is really the only possible culprit left... I just ordered a cheapo Aerocool case from Amazon since it's cheaper than getting a technician. If it doesn't work, I'll return it. If it works, I'll likely return it and get a fancier one.
Thanks guys!
I tried the steps one by one, to see where the problem might have been. And yeh, I'm using the new cables that came with the new PSU. I even tried using different peripherals (mouse, monitor, keyboard, etc.) just in case.
It's weird because when I did the several-hours-long memtest I had no reboots, but once I got into Windows, zing.
And yes the case is really the only possible culprit left... I just ordered a cheapo Aerocool case from Amazon since it's cheaper than getting a technician. If it doesn't work, I'll return it. If it works, I'll likely return it and get a fancier one.
Thanks guys!
Rikkori
Member
- Model matters more than brand for GPUs, but also look into how the warranty/customer service of the brand is for your region. That will be more important imo.
- Yes, it can make a huge difference. Check Buildzoid's ramblings about various ram kits or see the tl;dr on the AMD subreddit.
- 5600x is great. Dunno price difference vs Intel but you can look into it. i5 10600k is no slouch either.
- MSI B550-A Pro is great, but again, gotta figure it out based on pricing in your region. See reviews here:
- Look into Gamers Nexus case reviews & look at your region availability.
- Air cooling is more reliable, and for a 5600x AIO is overkill & overly expensive. I put a 5600x setup together for someone recently with an Arctic 34 Esports Duo and it's cool & quiet, no reason for more unless you're particular about it.
- Seasonic PSU. No ifs or buts.
- Check out https://www.reddit.com/r/NewMaxx/
rofif
Can’t Git Gud
Anyone tried monitor LG 32UN650 ?
It's 32" ips with 95" dci-p3 coverage and 40-60hz freesync. Sounds perfect for ps5 and single player gaming.
I currently have lg 27uk650. 2 years old 27" version with normal srgb colors. But it's a great ips. No bleeding, minimal ips glow, 40-60hz freesync works great and the lag is as minimal as it can be on 60hz monitor. Response times also are as good as can be at 60hz lcd.
So I am interested. Especially that it's 500usd. Same my 27uk650 was.
And I know it's 60hz... but I don't care. I have 3080 and just finished playing cyberpunk maxed out and locked at 30fps as it wouldn't even stay in 40+ for freesync range. And we know that most ps5 games will have 30/60 toggle. I don't play online and dont need 144hz.
That said - 48 cx oled is soon to be released here... 1000usd more expensive than that 32" ips monitor and supposedly freesync is broken on oleds fundamentally
It's 32" ips with 95" dci-p3 coverage and 40-60hz freesync. Sounds perfect for ps5 and single player gaming.
I currently have lg 27uk650. 2 years old 27" version with normal srgb colors. But it's a great ips. No bleeding, minimal ips glow, 40-60hz freesync works great and the lag is as minimal as it can be on 60hz monitor. Response times also are as good as can be at 60hz lcd.
So I am interested. Especially that it's 500usd. Same my 27uk650 was.
And I know it's 60hz... but I don't care. I have 3080 and just finished playing cyberpunk maxed out and locked at 30fps as it wouldn't even stay in 40+ for freesync range. And we know that most ps5 games will have 30/60 toggle. I don't play online and dont need 144hz.
That said - 48 cx oled is soon to be released here... 1000usd more expensive than that 32" ips monitor and supposedly freesync is broken on oleds fundamentally
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Later Alligator
Member
finally upgrading my PC
ryzen 5800x
msi meg mobo
new glass case
32 gb of 3600 RAM
etc..
will be re-using my 1080ti until i can buy a damn 3080
ryzen 5800x
msi meg mobo
new glass case
32 gb of 3600 RAM
etc..
will be re-using my 1080ti until i can buy a damn 3080
Hawking Radiation
Member
Thank you so so very much for the information you provided. Really much appreciated.
chorizosausage#3774
Member
Any advice appreciated here.
I have a new motherboard, MSI Tomahawk, corsair vengeance 3200 ram. Applying the XMP profile causes crashing in more demanding games.
Should I return or is there any tweaks that can be done.
I have a new motherboard, MSI Tomahawk, corsair vengeance 3200 ram. Applying the XMP profile causes crashing in more demanding games.
Should I return or is there any tweaks that can be done.
Kenpachii
Member
If its 2 bars of memory try the other motherboard slots also make sure to correctly install them. If that doesn't help i would just return them and buy new memory or something.
GreatnessRD
Member
What CPU are you using? If you're using something like an R5 2600, the RAM isn't really stable passed 3000.
chorizosausage#3774
Member
3800x
I’m not sure it is the memory now. This is a new build the crash might be coincidental with turning on the xmp. I ran memtest64 over night with no errors.
CPU stress test with cpu z temps don’t really go above 80c and that’s over an hour or so and no crash.
tried furmark. and could get a crash, clocks on rx580 are going up to 1411mhz. might try dialling those down.
After one crash nvme boot drive disappeared from bios
returned after cycle is that unstable? Do i have to replace the thermal pad if i reseat the ssd?Also do the 6 + 8 have to be on separate looms from the psu (750 watt)?
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I've got to ask, is there any point to the higher end AIB cards? Asking because I haven't gotten a video card for my build. I've been on a discord server which gave me heads up to listings on Newegg for 3060 and 3070 cards from manufacturers such as MSI. However those cards go from anywhere from $60-$120+ over the reference designs. (High enough that I'd think I'd be better off just going to a 3080) Anybody got any opinion on it? (Admittedly if one of the cards was only $20-$30 over the standard price I'd jump on it. However when it's much more than that I figure I might as well wait.)
amigastar
Member
Dude, i'm feeling you. Had also problems with my PC not to long ago, it can be really frustrating finding the issue (for me it was the RAM)
Wishing you all the luck to find the issue.
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chorizosausage#3774
Member
I know how you feel now.
chorizosausage#3774
Member
I think I found the problem, windows wasn't writing a minidump and I reckon that's because the PCIe lanes are lost, therefore no SSD.3800x
I’m not sure it is the memory now. This is a new build the crash might be coincidental with turning on the xmp. I ran memtest64 over night with no errors.
CPU stress test with cpu z temps don’t really go above 80c and that’s over an hour or so and no crash.
tried furmark. and could get a crash, clocks on rx580 are going up to 1411mhz. might try dialling those down.
After one crash nvme boot drive disappeared from bios
Also do the 6 + 8 have to be on separate looms from the psu (750 watt)?
I put the GPU on two separate cables from the PSU and everything seems stable now. Hopefully no lasting damage.
It seems my RX580 was not getting enough juice from the daisy chained cable.
Md Ray
Member
Is it just me or there's no discussion this time around regarding how much VRAM do you need on PC for next-gen games at 1440p-4K resolutions?
The 8GB VRAM of RTX 3060 Ti & 3070 – will it be enough to last throughout the PS5/XSX generation? What I mean by that is, will it be enough to use at least console-equivalent texture quality for the rest of this gen?
I personally feel like 8GB cards are going to end up like the 3GB GTX 1060 where you have to drop texture quality below console-level in the near future to keep the performance up. What do you guys think?
The 8GB VRAM of RTX 3060 Ti & 3070 – will it be enough to last throughout the PS5/XSX generation? What I mean by that is, will it be enough to use at least console-equivalent texture quality for the rest of this gen?
I personally feel like 8GB cards are going to end up like the 3GB GTX 1060 where you have to drop texture quality below console-level in the near future to keep the performance up. What do you guys think?
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Rikkori
Member
Console-equivalent? Hmm, maybe. It's tricky vs consoles because they, most of the time, use customised settings which aren't equal to PC options, so you can pick either better or worse than consoles but very rarely 'exactly like' consoles. For me there's no doubt that 8 GB cards will choke once proper streaming systems & HD textures get implemented in games, and you can see that already in some games out now, but it's rare. Another thing that doesn't get mentioned in these discussions is how you can sometimes go beyond vanilla settings with vram usage and help out streaming (not to mention modding), e.g. out of the box Fallen Order is a bit miserable with streaming but if you got vram to spare you can use the unlocker and pump out streaming distances & caching up the wazoo and that changes things quite a bit (not possible on 8 GB etc).
So my recommendation to people wanting to buy 1 card for the whole gen and be on parity with consoles is wait for the bigger vram variants which are coming this spring. No reason to rush & stock isn't that plentiful now anyway.
Md Ray
Member
Hey, just curious. Did the new case fix your issue? I suspect the restart cable in your existing case is the problem.
Jack Videogames
Member
Didn't receive it yet
but removing the front panel cables did nothing. I'll keep you guys posted!
Md Ray
Member
No, actually when it comes to texture quality you can find the exact console-equivalent texture setting on PC more often than not. At the beginning of the PS4/XB1 life cycle (2014-15), it used to be usually High-Ultra texture quality. But these days console texture quality sits in the PC's "Medium" range and highest quality/Ultra reserved for X1X since it has 80%-64% more memory allocated for games than PS4/XB1/Pro.
The texture quality in CP2077 on PS4/XB1 for e.g. is an exact match for Medium. Yes, sometimes they can be custom but generally, you can find the equivalent setting on PC for texture quality, that is.
Yeah. That's my concern too and those who purchase graphics cards and plan to use it for a long time (5-6 years) need to take the amount of VRAM into consideration too. If you don't mind dropping texture quality below console-level then it's fine. But I personally like to play my games with at least console-level graphics/texture quality, if I can't go higher.
That's a good recommendation. I'm one of those people who buys 1 GPU for the whole gen and does not upgrade major components like the CPU, graphics card every two years like many PC gamers would. I've been using GTX 970 for the past 5+ years and it, unfortunately, gave out a couple of days ago while playing CP2077. In what is possibly the worst period to buy a new GPU.
So I did some research for a suitable upgrade and found the perf of 3060 Ti and 3070 to be where I wanted for the price. While the rasterization and RT perf of both these GPUs are exceptional, I've come to realize that the 8GB VRAM they come with isn't actually gonna be enough. In the here and now? It's fine. But it's potentially going to be a limiting factor in the not too distant future when devs move away from cross-gen.
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Md Ray
Member
What GPU would you guys consider 2x more powerful than Xbox Series S GPU, with RT HW?
I'm not talking about paper specs, but in actual real world performance.
For e.g. CP2077 runs at 30fps (Likely Med-High settings) using dynamic resolution, it tops out at 1440p, but it generally renders at 1188p.
So what GPU will it take for 60fps?
I'm not talking about paper specs, but in actual real world performance.
For e.g. CP2077 runs at 30fps (Likely Med-High settings) using dynamic resolution, it tops out at 1440p, but it generally renders at 1188p.
So what GPU will it take for 60fps?
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With ray tracing on or off?
(Cyberpunk is running in backwards compatability mode on the XSX right now, so can't be used for performance comparisons)
Md Ray
Member
With RT off, of course. Both XSS and XSX don't render any RT effects...yet.
DarkestHour
Banned
Oops. Just managed to get a 5600x on Amazon. Guess I need to start researching parts for it. Going fresh except for existing RTX 2080.
GreatnessRD
Member
EDIT: Misread the question. Agreed with below.
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In Cyberpunk, sure. But they do in Watch Dogs: Legion, where Alex from DF estimated that the ray tracing performance of an XSX was slightly below a 2060 Super.
But I just noticed you said S, not X, so I don't think there have been any direct comparisons with uncapped framerates. (Based on the specifications, the S should deliver RX 570/580 class performance, so a 2060 Super/5700 XT would be needed to double up. The 3060 Ti should be a safe option)
Dural
Member
My brother did the same thing I did last year for his son (bought PC parts for son for christmas) and I helped him choose the parts and put it together. I hadn't been looking at PC parts since last year so didn't realize how much they've gone up, holy shit are CPU and GPU prices and availability ridiculous! He ended up going with a Ryzen 7 3700x as the 3rd gen weren't available anywhere, even then, he paid double what I did a year ago for the 2700x. Couldn't find a GPU at a decent price so I let him use an old 1060 I had until he can get a 3060ti.
SlimySnake
Flashless at the Golden Globes
Yeah the best thing about AMD was that they used to be far more affordable. $100 could get you a pretty decent cpu and $200 could get you a great mid range gpu. Now they are priced like Intel and nvidia so it's like everything is high end and super expensive.
$450 for their new cpus is nonsense.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
VRR works just fine on my 55" LG CX with an RTX 3080 at 120hz over an HDMI 2.1 cable. Plays well with HDR, too.
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rofif
Can’t Git Gud
Some reviews say that when using vr on cx, the gamma get brighter or can flicker or some shit. So maybe it's not that drastic?
Still, I could sacrifice vrr and just play at 30 60 90 or 120fls locked
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