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[LiquidMetal14]

Wow 12 TB non boot all SSDs? Noice

16tb

And @nightmare-slain, I use the Asus suite of apps to control it all (Aura/armory crate).

 

[VAVA Mk2]

16tb

And @nightmare-slain, I use the Asus suite of apps to control it all (Aura/armory crate).

Oh whoops added wrong LOL

 

[V1LÆM]

16tb

And @nightmare-slain, I use the Asus suite of apps to control it all (Aura/armory crate).

cool, i want to get an asus board. i'm done with Gigabyte.

is that a X670E-F board? i wanted the X670 Hero but i can't justify the price over the B650E-E. it's about a £300 difference for not really much. I think better VRMs, USB4 support, and more PCIE lanes. i dont want to overclock, not interested in USB4, and i think a B650E would have enough pcie lanes with PCIE5 support.

 

[Black_Stride]

Maybe dumb question: I know Z690 boards are compatible with 13th gen chips with a bios update, but if I'm building a new system rather than upgrading, how can I update the bios?

MSI have a really effective Bios Flash feature that doesnt even need a CPU or RAM in the board, it usually takes a few minutes like 5 minutes for the BIOS to be fully updated.
And they also have cumulative updates so just download the latest version of the BIOS without needing to jump through hoops picking multiple BIOS versions till you reach the 13th gen update. (Gigabyte are number one for dont even try to update the BIOS because those boards are so hit and miss you'd think it was guesswork whether it will update or brick the Motherboard)

 

[intheinbetween]

I'm doing push/pull from the top too with room to spare. I've had that same issue you describe in the past and it's prevented me from doing this config. The last build I was able to do push/pull was my Intel 5930k build.

Plenty of room to spare and the build into the case fan controller still has 3 PWM slots free for more fans. I may cave in and add another 140mm to the front but they're expensive. Not that the 3 Artic fans weren't either (55USD for 3).

This has been the easiest case I put a build together. I would even say it was fun this time around. Plenty of space underneath/back for your PSU and 2 drive bays of which I removed 1 so it doesn't clash with the PSU cables. I used all 4 NVME board slots and the 3 SSD mounts before the motherboard so clean as reasonably cable managed.

Since I upgraded from a Ryzen 5800X to an Intel 13900KS I am monitoring the temps in order to find out how urgen it is to upgrade the case, so I can wait for a good deal, but si far the Arctic Liquid II 280 are doing a great job

 

[LiquidMetal14]

cool, i want to get an asus board. i'm done with Gigabyte.

is that a X670E-F board? i wanted the X670 Hero but i can't justify the price over the B650E-E. it's about a £300 difference for not really much. I think better VRMs, USB4 support, and more PCIE lanes. i dont want to overclock, not interested in USB4, and i think a B650E would have enough pcie lanes with PCIE5 support.

That's is the x670E-F board, yes. I could have gone for the A or I or whichever one was was 50~USD more but this one is excellent with the features and VRM cooling. I like that all the nvme slots come with thermal pads so one less thing to concern yourself with. One thing I can say for sure is that even my x570 board that I had would be limited if I populated all the nvme slots. So the fact that I have four of those here and I'm able to still populate all four of the SATA 6G ports is a major plus.

Since I upgraded from a Ryzen 5800X to an Intel 13900KS I am monitoring the temps in order to find out how urgen it is to upgrade the case, so I can wait for a good deal, but si far the Arctic Liquid II 280 are doing a great job

Things have changed as I used to buy pretty much Corsair kits but these Arctic AIO's have come a long way. I probably won't go with any other brand from here on out unless they have some really weird performance issues. With the push pull I am at the top end of performance. And knowing the way these new Verizon CPUs run it doesn't even bother me to see it in the '80s because all the reviews that I have read a lot of the coolers go right up to the thermal limit quite quickly and I barely even see that. My CPU idles at 44 and GPU at 46~. At load, CPU has never hit higher than 86 during stress and GPU never hits a PvE 76 and that's with a 180core/1575mem OC on the Gigabyte Gaming OC 4090.

 

[intheinbetween]

Things have changed as I used to buy pretty much Corsair kits but these Arctic AIO's have come a long way. I probably won't go with any other brand from here on out unless they have some really weird performance issues. With the push pull I am at the top end of performance. And knowing the way these new Verizon CPUs run it doesn't even bother me to see it in the '80s because all the reviews that I have read a lot of the coolers go right up to the thermal limit quite quickly and I barely even see that. My CPU idles at 44 and GPU at 46~. At load, CPU has never hit higher than 86 during stress and GPU never hits a PvE 76 and that's with a 180core/1575mem OC on the Gigabyte Gaming OC 4090.

Tbh I ended up chosing the Liquid Freezer II 280 because my previous MSI AIO died, since it was still under warranty I reached out Amazon CS and they made a refund, so I invested that money on the AIO that got more positive reviews, and that was Arctic's.

On idle the LF II 280 is really silent (I'm a sucker for silent components) while it maintains the CPU around 35-38º Celsius, while gaming, e.g Wo Long, it speeds the fans and the temp sits around 60-70, so, nice buy so far

 

[grfunkulus]

Guys,

could you have a look at this build? Any issues with it? - especially asking about cooling, Power supply, case, SSD.

I will probably not touch it for 5+ years (coming from 960gtx + i5 4460) so longevity is important for me.

Plan to play 1080p widescreen, but might upgrade to 1440p widescreen at some point in the future. I play mostly CPU intesive games - grand stategy, total wars, annos, DF-likes, cities skylines etc. Prefer console for action games.

I basically want 60fps / high (1080p or 1440p) on the next batch of total war games and other sequels of the above and probably quite a few cRPGs (BG3, Rogue Trader and the more strategy focused types).

Decided to go with 5800x3d as the cache seems beneficial in those games giving it an edge over 13600k and the 8 performance cores might give it a longer life vs intel once 8c start to be utilized (more).

The overall build cost should hover around1500e (assembly included) but will see if i can negotiate some discount.

Makes sense? Any criticism is appricaited. Thanks in advance.

Sapphire Radeon RX 6750 XT Pulse Gaming OC 12GB GDDR6 (11318-03-20G)
AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D, 3.4 GHz, 96 MB, BOX (100-100000651WOF)
CPU Noctua NH-D15 2x140mm
Płyta główna Gigabyte B550 GAMING X V2
Kingston Fury Renegade, DDR4, 32 GB, 3600MHz, CL16 (KF436C16RB1K2/32)
Corsair RM750e 750W (CP-9020248-EU)
Fractal Design Pop Air RGB TG (FD-C-POR1A-04)
SSD MSI Spatium M371 1TB M.2 2280 PCI-E x4 Gen3 NVMe (S78-440L870-P83)

Don't buy a 6750xt. Underperforming card for the price vs 6800 and 6800xt which are barely more. Bought a 6800 for my egpu setup and the thing sips power but also has HUGE OC'ling potential

 

[Erebus]

I'm really happy with my RTX 4070 Ti (not so much with its price but what can I do), I tried a few games during the weekend and the performance difference from the GTX 1060 is immense as expected.

On a related note, what's the optimal way of using Gsync in games? What I do is, always disable vsync from the in-game settings and implement an FPS limit (2-3 frames below my monitor's refresh rate) and force vsync on from the Nvidia CP.

 

[Bojji]

I'm really happy with my RTX 4070 Ti (not so much with its price but what can I do), I tried a few games during the weekend and the performance difference from the GTX 1060 is immense as expected.

On a related note, what's the optimal way of using Gsync in games? What I do is, always disable vsync from the in-game settings and implement an FPS limit (2-3 frames below my monitor's refresh rate) and force vsync on from the Nvidia CP.

What you are doing is the best way for low latency, vsync off is goog too but only for games that are below refresh rate of your monitor most of the time.

 

[GymWolf]

I'm really happy with my RTX 4070 Ti (not so much with its price but what can I do), I tried a few games during the weekend and the performance difference from the GTX 1060 is immense as expected.

On a related note, what's the optimal way of using Gsync in games? What I do is, always disable vsync from the in-game settings and implement an FPS limit (2-3 frames below my monitor's refresh rate) and force vsync on from the Nvidia CP.

I heard that when you use framegen you should not lock the framerate because framegen + reflex already take care of lowering the max fps or some shit.

GHG knows it better.

 

[KuraiShidosha]

My 7950x3D finally showed up and I got everything installed. I must say, Windows 11 22H2, which was previously restricted from me because I had a 7th gen Intel CPU, is the most cancerous overreaching piece of shit I've ever used in my 25 years building PCs. I'd legit rather use Windows 98 SE again than uss that crap. Unfortunately I really need it for the underlying tech which goes into my setup's optimal performance. Shitty.

The good news is the performance leap is astronomical for me. 7700k to 7950x3D and 1080 Ti to 4090 has been wild to experience. I test a lot of emulation stuff and one of the most impressive results to me was Dolphin playing Metroid Prime. I have a particular spot where on my old setup I would get about 430 fps. Well now on the new one, I'm seeing 728 fps. That's pretty ridiculous for a test that's largely single thread CPU limited.

Then there's RPCS3 and RDR. Before it was a constant slideshow of 12-20 fps. Now I'm seeing a locked 30 at all times which is exactly what I want. I'm not about that whole uncap the console game's framerate using a hack, introducing all kinds of weird timing issues and only to end up with 60 fps when you're out in the wildness looking up at the sky, and swinging from 32 to 50 all the time. Nah I'n quite happy with the locked 30 at 4k there.

One thing that's got me really upset is the RAM situation. I have 2x32GB 6000MT/s CAS 30-40-40-96 RAM and I'm finding 0 performance uplift from enabling EXPO over stock. The power draw skyrockets, the poor memory controller gets blasted with 1.44v up from 1.1v, and I genuinely fear for stability sake that it's not fully stable. I feel like I wasted money chasing faster RAM and will probably just run it stock. Oh well.

 

[Azzurri]

Dumb question, but does the size of the monitor matter on your FPS if the resolution is the same?

i.e LG C2 48"4k or LG C2 42"4k

 

[GHG]

Dumb question, but does the size of the monitor matter on your FPS if the resolution is the same?

i.e LG C2 48"4k or LG C2 42"4k

Resolution is the only thing that will determine your FPS, not the size of the display.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

My 7950x3D finally showed up and I got everything installed. I must say, Windows 11 22H2, which was previously restricted from me because I had a 7th gen Intel CPU, is the most cancerous overreaching piece of shit I've ever used in my 25 years building PCs. I'd legit rather use Windows 98 SE again than uss that crap. Unfortunately I really need it for the underlying tech which goes into my setup's optimal performance. Shitty.

The good news is the performance leap is astronomical for me. 7700k to 7950x3D and 1080 Ti to 4090 has been wild to experience. I test a lot of emulation stuff and one of the most impressive results to me was Dolphin playing Metroid Prime. I have a particular spot where on my old setup I would get about 430 fps. Well now on the new one, I'm seeing 728 fps. That's pretty ridiculous for a test that's largely single thread CPU limited.

Then there's RPCS3 and RDR. Before it was a constant slideshow of 12-20 fps. Now I'm seeing a locked 30 at all times which is exactly what I want. I'm not about that whole uncap the console game's framerate using a hack, introducing all kinds of weird timing issues and only to end up with 60 fps when you're out in the wildness looking up at the sky, and swinging from 32 to 50 all the time. Nah I'n quite happy with the locked 30 at 4k there.

One thing that's got me really upset is the RAM situation. I have 2x32GB 6000MT/s CAS 30-40-40-96 RAM and I'm finding 0 performance uplift from enabling EXPO over stock. The power draw skyrockets, the poor memory controller gets blasted with 1.44v up from 1.1v, and I genuinely fear for stability sake that it's not fully stable. I feel like I wasted money chasing faster RAM and will probably just run it stock. Oh well.

It's definitely a massive leap relatively speaking. Even going from a 5900x feels legit faster and performance is tangibly better with much better 1% lows. It's those things that take the performance and feel of a device to another level.

Regarding memory, how are you measuring performance? I'm assuming you did all the AMD chipset/software installs? I run a 32GB (2x16) GSKILL Trident Z5 6000MT 32-38-38-96 timings and it's definitely an uptick.

 

[GHG]

I heard that when you use framegen you should not lock the framerate because framegen + reflex already take care of lowering the max fps or some shit.

GHG knows it better.

Yeh the current best practice for framegen is in the first reply here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/10q8ml9/current_state_of_dlss3_gsync_frame_limit/

 

[decisions]

Dumb question, but does the size of the monitor matter on your FPS if the resolution is the same?

i.e LG C2 48"4k or LG C2 42"4k

No, this is because the way most companies (besides Apple funnily enough) advertise resolution is misleading. Resolution is just a number of pixels. Sharpness/clarity of an image is determined by pixels per inch or pixel density.

So the computer will do the same work for either of these displays, it is outputting the same number of pixels after all. The 48” display will have less pixel density and look worse (may not be noticeable if you are not sitting close enough to it).

 

[JohnnyFootball]

Exchanged my Asus TUF Gaming 4080 for a Gigabyte Gaming OC 4090 at Microcenter. The exchange cost an extra $300. Was it worth it? I don't know. The Asus TUF Gaming was a disappointment. I had all sorts of signal loss and monitor glitches. So far I have had none on the Gigabyte. I know Asus is considered legendary for quality, but I have had more issues with them than any other brand. Gigabyte and Asrock are known for quality issues, yet I have never had any issues with their products. I still wish EVGA was making GPUs as I worship that brand.

At Microcenter in Dallas, TX, it's pretty insane how many open-box 4080s they have. I saw a few marked down to $1000. That is still what I would call overpriced for a 4080, but that's a much better deal than $1300.

Congratulations nvidia, you have created another sucker.

But...I now have the best of the best in terms of GPUs for a good long while.

 

[V1LÆM]

But...I now have the best of the best in terms of GPUs for a good long while.

Until the 4090 Ti We might even get a Titan RTX (Ada).

Rumors are that a 4090 Ti will have 18176 cuda cores (4090 has 16384), an extra 56 tensor cores, 14 more RT cores, faster VRAM.

but it will have a 600W TDP. Titan seems to be more or less the same as the 4090 Ti but has a 800W TDP.

 

[KuraiShidosha]

It's definitely a massive leap relatively speaking. Even going from a 5900x feels legit faster and performance is tangibly better with much better 1% lows. It's those things that take the performance and feel of a device to another level.

Regarding memory, how are you measuring performance? I'm assuming you did all the AMD chipset/software installs? I run a 32GB (2x16) GSKILL Trident Z5 6000MT 32-38-38-96 timings and it's definitely an uptick.

I'm just testing specific spots in games where I have a locked in specific framerate I'm aware of. It doesn't change whatsoever when I e able EXPO. I realize I could probably tighten the timings up and get something better out of it but honestly I'm so over stability problems and I need this system to last me awhile so I don't think I'll be overvolting the IMC like appears to be necessary for stability. If someone could show me basically my identical build and say "you're leaving 10% performance on the table" then maybe I'd agree and try, but right now I'm not seeing any gains whatsoever making it feel really wasteful. Nevermind the power cost increase of idle power draw from these settings. I from around 180w total system power draw at the outlet when idle using stock settings, to 216w with EXPO enabled. Way too big a jump to justify.

 

[demented waffle]

Windows just boots automatically without me being to go into bios. Any idea why?

I even turned off fast boot. I just want to make sure that AI optimized is turned off.

 

[dave_d]

Windows just boots automatically without me being to go into bios. Any idea why?

I even turned off fast boot. I just want to make sure that AI optimized is turned off.

Wonder if it's like my PC. My video card has 4 outputs. For sometimes it doesn't display out on the one output that's hooked up. When I had multiple displays hooked up I saw the screen on what was for me a secondary display. If you can try hooking up as many displays at once to your PC. If it's not that then no idea.

 

[demented waffle]

I can see why Kiguin has a 4.4 trustpilot rating. They fight any rating that gives them a 1 star. They're taking this 1 star and like it.

Documentation? Really? Isn't a receipt enough?

On second thought, that 1 star rating can go, I guess.

Trust pilot and Kinguin are both shit. At least I bought with a CC and disputed that shit. No money out of my pocket.

 

[GreatnessRD]

I can see why Kiguin has a 4.4 trustpilot rating. They fight any rating that gives them a 1 star. They're taking this 1 star and like it.

Documentation? Really? Isn't a receipt enough?

On second thought, that 1 star rating can go, I guess.

Trust pilot and Kinguin are both shit. At least I bought with a CC and disputed that shit. No money out of my pocket.

What did you buy from them?

 

[demented waffle]

What did you buy from them?

Windows 11 key

 

[V1LÆM]

why the fuck is it so hard to find a 7950X3D

or in particular why is the Asus B650E-E Gaming WiFi motherboard constantly out of stock?

I want to build my new PC but fuck knows when I will be able to. Hopefully once the 7800X3D comes out people will calm the fuck down and stop buying 7950X3D's lol. As for the motherboard I might just go with the X670 Hero. It's £300 more but if that's what I need to pay then fine.

Windows 11 key

too late now but you should get your keys from Reddit. not sure if the subreddit is still open but I got mine on /r/microsoftsoftwareswap. definitely the best place for a cheap key. people say there is the risk of microsoft blocking your license but it's bullshit in my experience. i've bought a few licenses with no issue.

 

[GHG]

I can see why Kiguin has a 4.4 trustpilot rating. They fight any rating that gives them a 1 star. They're taking this 1 star and like it.

Documentation? Really? Isn't a receipt enough?

On second thought, that 1 star rating can go, I guess.

Trust pilot and Kinguin are both shit. At least I bought with a CC and disputed that shit. No money out of my pocket.

Kinguin are bottom of the barrel. I've had success with HRKgame for my windows keys.

Don't use any site that doesn't sell the keys themselves and instead use 3rd party sellers. Might as well go to ebay if you're going to do that.

 

[demented waffle]

-98% price for 3.98 seems pretty shady.

https://www.hrkgame.com/en/games/product/windows-10-professional-standard

 

[hinch7]

I can see why Kiguin has a 4.4 trustpilot rating. They fight any rating that gives them a 1 star. They're taking this 1 star and like it.

Documentation? Really? Isn't a receipt enough?

On second thought, that 1 star rating can go, I guess.

Trust pilot and Kinguin are both shit. At least I bought with a CC and disputed that shit. No money out of my pocket.

Kinguin and G2A always looked dodgy AF to me.. The latter being used to flog stolen keys. And reading responses like this, I nope out. Good that you got your money back.

Personally I use Eneba.. who've have been pretty good for prices and delivery. Granted they are too grey market marketplace for resellers so some risk involved there. Otherwise can't go wrong with CDKeys for new titles and everything else.

 

[winjer]

A good place to find good deals is on https://gg.deals/

It list oficial game stores, as well as non-oficial key stores. But we can turn of the non oficial stores.
Best yet, on the non-oficial key stores, it list the risks associated with each one. Some stores will list 2 or 3 risks, nothing major.
But kinguin is one of the worst:

Risks​

Before you buy in Kinguin, make sure you read about all the associated risks.​

Unknown source of the key​

Majority of keys in the store do not come directly from the publisher. Read more

Obligatory payment fee at checkout​

An extra fee will be added at checkout for all available payment methods. Read more

Marketplace​

A marketplace is an eBay-like platform where multiple vendors sell their keys. Make sure you select a vendor with good reputation and many successful transactions. Read more

Cheap Microsoft Windows / Office keys​

The store is reselling volume licenses or OEM keys for Microsoft Windows/ Microsoft Office. Avoid them at all cost. Read more

EU VAT added at checkout​

The store will ask you about your country of origin at checkout. Once you select EU country, EU VAT will be added to the final price. Read more

Best price is hidden​

The store promotes more expensive offers, even though lower price is available if you scroll down. Read more

Obligatory “order fee” at checkout​

An “order fee” will be added on top of the price displayed in store when you reach the checkout. Read more

Selling Steam gifts​

Trading Steam gifts is against T&C of Steam. Purchasing them from keyshops might put your Steam account at risk. Read more

 

[JohnnyFootball]

I bought one of those cable mod colored 12V PCI 5.0 cables for my 4090.

Bad idea. It caused all sorts of issues and I had to go back to generic one from Corsair.

 

[rofif]

Ok I am having a meltdown here over my "high end" pc is aging. its:
x570 gigabyte aorus elite
1tb corsair mp510 + 512 mp510 for system. both are 3.0 drives.
3700x
16gb 3200mhz ram
3080fe 10gb shitty version
case and coolers are all nice. be quiet dark rock pro 4 on that cpu. All quiet and cool aside from 3080 which is 82c and 2000rpm when I do anything with it lol since I game at 4k.

No... I could drop 5800x in there. 5800x3d is kinda pricey.
I could als add 16gb of ram in there for some reason.
But 3080 stays what it is. There is barely any hope of getting our of that 10gb of vram. 4080 16gb is 2x more expensive than what I've paid for 3080 and there is no FE available here which sucks...
so this kinda halts my upgrade path for now. It might be worth upgrading cpu but 4080 doesnt seem worth it

What a shitty job by nvidia with that 10gb of vram. Games run 100fps still no problem but vram is starting to be an issue. Sure, capcom sucks at optimization but they do give you all the options. I just like maxing out stuff

 

[MikeM]

Ok I am having a meltdown here over my "high end" pc is aging. its:
x570 gigabyte aorus elite
1tb corsair mp510 + 512 mp510 for system. both are 3.0 drives.
3700x
16gb 3200mhz ram
3080fe 10gb shitty version
case and coolers are all nice. be quiet dark rock pro 4 on that cpu. All quiet and cool aside from 3080 which is 82c and 2000rpm when I do anything with it lol since I game at 4k.

No... I could drop 5800x in there. 5800x3d is kinda pricey.
I could als add 16gb of ram in there for some reason.
But 3080 stays what it is. There is barely any hope of getting our of that 10gb of vram. 4080 16gb is 2x more expensive than what I've paid for 3080 and there is no FE available here which sucks...
so this kinda halts my upgrade path for now. It might be worth upgrading cpu but 4080 doesnt seem worth it

What a shitty job by nvidia with that 10gb of vram. Games run 100fps still no problem but vram is starting to be an issue. Sure, capcom sucks at optimization but they do give you all the options. I just like maxing out stuff

Why’d you buy it in the first place? Not to pour gas on the fire, but you must have known about the vram limits.

 

[rofif]

Why’d you buy it in the first place? Not to pour gas on the fire, but you must have known about the vram limits.

It was not an issue. Remember when 3080 came out in 2020 it ate everything for dinner. The only better card was a 3090 which is unobtainable youtuber card. 12gb came out almost a year later and I got mine 10gb at release. very much bot hunted on nvidia store for a whole week. I really dedicated week of my life to hunt down this beautiful gpu lol
And to be honest, only few games have this issue but it does start t crop up.

 

[GHG]

-98% price for 3.98 seems pretty shady.

https://www.hrkgame.com/en/games/product/windows-10-professional-standard

I've bought several from them and never had a problem.

 

[Chiggs]

I moved my second rig (5950X, MSI 4090) from a Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL to a Corsair 5000T.

First of all, I just want to--once again--state what an overrated company Lian Li is.

• Their RMA/claim process is worthless, as are a lot of the people they employ to process consumer requests.
  • I submitted a ticket 2 weeks ago for a busted front panel controller on a case that is barely 6 months old and I still haven't heard back from them.

I also want to discuss why the O11 Dynamic XL is just as overrated as the company that makes it:

• Der Bauer might have his name on the case, but its shortcomings are many:
  • Mediocre cable management for quite a hefty mid-tower.
  • Objectively bad design (like having to take the top off to remove the side panel).
  • Poor quality construction on some aspects, like the awful screws which secure the back shroud/SSD mounts.

I swear, reviewers gushed over this case because of its admittedly good thermals and influential design, but when they shipped the EVO out a year later to address numerous complaints from users, you know damn well that Tech Tubers didn't do their due diligence when reviewing it the first time around.

Anyway, here's my 2nd rig in its new case. I turned the RGB red/orange to express my rage at Lian Li.

 

[Chiggs]

Ok I am having a meltdown here over my "high end" pc is aging. its:
x570 gigabyte aorus elite
1tb corsair mp510 + 512 mp510 for system. both are 3.0 drives.
3700x
16gb 3200mhz ram
3080fe 10gb shitty version
case and coolers are all nice. be quiet dark rock pro 4 on that cpu. All quiet and cool aside from 3080 which is 82c and 2000rpm when I do anything with it lol since I game at 4k.

No... I could drop 5800x in there. 5800x3d is kinda pricey.
I could als add 16gb of ram in there for some reason.
But 3080 stays what it is. There is barely any hope of getting our of that 10gb of vram. 4080 16gb is 2x more expensive than what I've paid for 3080 and there is no FE available here which sucks...
so this kinda halts my upgrade path for now. It might be worth upgrading cpu but 4080 doesnt seem worth it

What a shitty job by nvidia with that 10gb of vram. Games run 100fps still no problem but vram is starting to be an issue. Sure, capcom sucks at optimization but they do give you all the options. I just like maxing out stuff

My recommendations for you:

1. Make sure you're using the latest bios for your x570 Elite.
2. Make sure you've updated your SSD firmware.
3. Download Ryzen Master and make sure you're got a decent OC profile going.
4. A 5800X/X3D isn't a bad idea at all, but you're only using 3200 ram and Ryzen needs 3600 (CL 16) to really shine. So remember that if you snag a 5800X or X3D.

 

[crazepharmacist]

Can anyone recommended an AM5 motherboard for me? I want PCIE 5.0 slots for both the GPU and the NVME (planning on upgrading to gen 5 when they come out). Looking for the best customer support, warranty, and general reliability. Looking at x670E and B650E boards by Asus, Gigabyte, ASRock. They all look good reading the product pages. I have no idea what to get. My current board is an EVGA from like 2010 that supports X58. I’ve had no issues with it for the past 10 plus years but I don’t see that EVGA makes motherboards anymore or at least not for AM5. Also don’t mind spending more money as I’ll probably keep this one for at least 5 years minimum.

 

[Celcius]

I moved my second rig (5950X, MSI 4090) from a Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL to a Corsair 5000T.

First of all, I just want to--once again--state what an overrated company Lian Li is.

• Their RMA/claim process is worthless, as are a lot of the people they employ to process consumer requests.
  • I submitted a ticket 2 weeks ago for a busted front panel controller on a case that is barely 6 months old and I still haven't heard back from them.

I also want to discuss why the O11 Dynamic XL is just as overrated as the company that makes it:

• Der Bauer might have his name on the case, but its shortcomings are many:
  • Mediocre cable management for quite a hefty mid-tower.
  • Objectively bad design (like having to take the top off to remove the side panel).
  • Poor quality construction on some aspects, like the awful screws which secure the back shroud/SSD mounts.

I swear, reviewers gushed over this case because of its admittedly good thermals and influential design, but when they shipped the EVO out a year later to address numerous complaints from users, you know damn well that Tech Tubers didn't do their due diligence when reviewing it the first time around.

Anyway, here's my 2nd rig in its new case. I turned the RGB red/orange to express my rage at Lian Li.

If that's your second rig then what is your main rig?

 

[Chiggs]

If that's your second rig then what is your main rig?

7950X, same video card, 128GB of RAM, a ton-and I mean a ton--of storage, but currently sitting on desk waiting for its new home.

(3D rendering machine)

Can anyone recommended an AM5 motherboard for me? I want PCIE 5.0 slots for both the GPU and the NVME (planning on upgrading to gen 5 when they come out). Looking for the best customer support, warranty, and general reliability. Looking at x670E and B650E boards by Asus, Gigabyte, ASRock. They all look good reading the product pages. I have no idea what to get. My current board is an EVGA from like 2010 that supports X58. I’ve had no issues with it for the past 10 plus years but I don’t see that EVGA makes motherboards anymore or at least not for AM5. Also don’t mind spending more money as I’ll probably keep this one for at least 5 years minimum.

I couldn't recommend a Gigabyte to my worst enemy (FYI: I run an x570 Master in my 2nd rig). Their hardware is top notch but the bullshit with their bios--and their awful RGB Fusion software--make them a complete pass.

I'd probably just stick with Asus, who overprice their hardware in the same way that Apple does, but can be counted on to provide support when needed.

 

[rofif]

My recommendations for you:

1. Make sure you're using the latest bios for your x570 Elite.
2. Make sure you've updated your SSD firmware.
3. Download Ryzen Master and make sure you're got a decent OC profile going.
4. A 5800X/X3D isn't a bad idea at all, but you're only using 3200 ram and Ryzen needs 3600 (CL 16) to really shine. So remember that if you snag a 5800X or X3D.

ssd is up to date. as for bios, I've not updated in a year. I shall do that.
If I see 5800x or 5800x3d on a sale, I might grab one. why not

 

[winjer]

Can anyone recommended an AM5 motherboard for me? I want PCIE 5.0 slots for both the GPU and the NVME (planning on upgrading to gen 5 when they come out). Looking for the best customer support, warranty, and general reliability. Looking at x670E and B650E boards by Asus, Gigabyte, ASRock. They all look good reading the product pages. I have no idea what to get. My current board is an EVGA from like 2010 that supports X58. I’ve had no issues with it for the past 10 plus years but I don’t see that EVGA makes motherboards anymore or at least not for AM5. Also don’t mind spending more money as I’ll probably keep this one for at least 5 years minimum.

What is your budget for the motherboard? Any features that you must have?

 

[crazepharmacist]

What is your budget for the motherboard? Any features that you must have?

I would like PCIE 5.0 GPU slot (I have a 3090 now that’s totally bottlenecked by my current X58 CPU but I got it extremely cheap and could definitely upgrade either to the next generation 5090 or definitely 6090 so I want the board to be future proof in that regard.

I want PCIE5.0 for the m.2 NVME slot. I have a SATA SSD now but when the Gen 5 drives come out I’ll likely get one assuming the prices aren’t exorbitant. I want good cooling/heatsinks because I read gen 5 is going to be hot.

I would like fast boot times but I read slow boot is a problem across all AM5 boards due to the design of the CPU and how it interacts with DDR5 so if I have to wait longer to turn on my PC it’s not a big deal as long as I’m getting a high quality, reliable board.
WiFi 6e.
My budget could go as high $400-500

I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDTHQTJV/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[LiquidMetal14]

I would like PCIE 5.0 GPU slot (I have a 3090 now that’s totally bottlenecked by my current X58 CPU but I got it extremely cheap and could definitely upgrade either to the next generation 5090 or definitely 6090 so I want the board to be future proof in that regard.

I want PCIE5.0 for the m.2 NVME slot. I have a SATA SSD now but when the Gen 5 drives come out I’ll likely get one assuming the prices aren’t exorbitant. I want good cooling/heatsinks because I read gen 5 is going to be hot.

I would like fast boot times but I read slow boot is a problem across all AM5 boards due to the design of the CPU and how it interacts with DDR5 so if I have to wait longer to turn on my PC it’s not a big deal as long as I’m getting a high quality, reliable board.
WiFi 6e.
My budget could go as high $400-500

I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDTHQTJV/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I bought the x670e-F Gaming Wifi. Very solid board with great future proof potential. I have all 4 nvme slots occupied and 3/4 of the SATA 6gbps ports. Runs solid and have been honing my PBO OC and it's very responsive to a good PBO tuning.

Temps are outstanding too. I think the difference in price between the E and F is so negligable so if you want to save some money, go with the F.

 

[OverHeat]

My 7950x3d still have not arrived….the wait is killing me

 

[JohnnyFootball]

I would like PCIE 5.0 GPU slot (I have a 3090 now that’s totally bottlenecked by my current X58 CPU but I got it extremely cheap and could definitely upgrade either to the next generation 5090 or definitely 6090 so I want the board to be future proof in that regard.

I want PCIE5.0 for the m.2 NVME slot. I have a SATA SSD now but when the Gen 5 drives come out I’ll likely get one assuming the prices aren’t exorbitant. I want good cooling/heatsinks because I read gen 5 is going to be hot.

I would like fast boot times but I read slow boot is a problem across all AM5 boards due to the design of the CPU and how it interacts with DDR5 so if I have to wait longer to turn on my PC it’s not a big deal as long as I’m getting a high quality, reliable board.
WiFi 6e.
My budget could go as high $400-500

I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDTHQTJV/?tag=neogaf0e-20

An X58?!!!! Jesus, literally anything you get will provide a massive boost. There are some damn good combo deals with Raptor Lake and Alder Lake for under $300 if you look.

As for that 670E,save yourself $200 and go with the TUF gaming variant.

 

[JohnnyFootball]

I bought the x670e-F Gaming Wifi. Very solid board with great future proof potential. I have all 4 nvme slots occupied and 3/4 of the SATA 6gbps ports. Runs solid and have been honing my PBO OC and it's very responsive to a good PBO tuning.

Temps are outstanding too. I think the difference in price between the E and F is so negligable so if you want to save some money, go with the F.

Yeah, I got the ASUS Prime X670 with a 7700X and it has a -30 offset a max temp of 85 C and a max 85W. It runs ultra quiet now. Temps rarely go above 61.

Before that it was LOUD as F.

 

[JohnnyFootball]

I would like PCIE 5.0 GPU slot (I have a 3090 now that’s totally bottlenecked by my current X58 CPU but I got it extremely cheap and could definitely upgrade either to the next generation 5090 or definitely 6090 so I want the board to be future proof in that regard.

I want PCIE5.0 for the m.2 NVME slot. I have a SATA SSD now but when the Gen 5 drives come out I’ll likely get one assuming the prices aren’t exorbitant. I want good cooling/heatsinks because I read gen 5 is going to be hot.

I would like fast boot times but I read slow boot is a problem across all AM5 boards due to the design of the CPU and how it interacts with DDR5 so if I have to wait longer to turn on my PC it’s not a big deal as long as I’m getting a high quality, reliable board.
WiFi 6e.
My budget could go as high $400-500

I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDTHQTJV/?tag=neogaf0e-20

If you are near a Microcenter, there are some INCREDIBLE deals to be had. It depends on if you need DDR5 memory though.

https://www.microcenter.com/site/products/amd_bundles.aspx
https://www.microcenter.com/site/brands/intel-processor-bundles.aspx

$378 for an Intel 12700K Z-690 ASUS combo?! You need DDR5, but that will be such a massive improvement.

 

[Urban]

Hey Boys,

can you give me feedback on this setup? Im thinking about building a new pc

Samsung SSD 990 PRO 2TB, M.2​

Intel Core i9-13900K, 8C+16c/32T, 3.00-5.80GHz​

G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR5-6000, CL40-40-40-96, on-die ECC​

GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 4090 Windforce 24G, 24GB GDDR6X​

GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite AX​

Thermaltake ToughPower GF3 1000W ATX 3.0​

 

[Celcius]

Hey Boys,

can you give me feedback on this setup? Im thinking about building a new pc

Samsung SSD 990 PRO 2TB, M.2​

Intel Core i9-13900K, 8C+16c/32T, 3.00-5.80GHz​

G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR5-6000, CL40-40-40-96, on-die ECC​

GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 4090 Windforce 24G, 24GB GDDR6X​

GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite AX​

Thermaltake ToughPower GF3 1000W ATX 3.0​

Personally I prefer Corsair or Seasonic for PSU's
I'd avoid the Samsung 990 Pro due to the issues they were having and I'd choose the WD SN850X personally
Otherwise looks good, what are you using for cooling?