Soodanim
Gold Member
I hope you're coping okay. For perspective my PC was built in 2014
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"I Need a New PC!" 2024. 240 Hz OLEDs, PCI-Gen5, Path Tracing & Ray Reconstruction.
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V1LÆM
Gold Member
I’m hoping to buy a 5090 FE. Hopefully it’s not too difficult to get one… 
Edit: nvm it should fit
Will that case even fit a 5090?? Have you checked the dimensions?
Edit: nvm it should fit
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Nankatsu
Gold Member
Fam, when it comes to RAM, can someone explain me if there is any noticeable difference between CL30-36-36-76 vs CL30-40-40-96?
I have a small issue with my Corsair 32GB DDR5 6000 Mhz RAM when using them on EXPO, and been meaning to pull the trigger on a G.Skill DDR5 64GB 6000Mhz CL30, but the timings are slighty different compared with the ones I currently have on my build.
CPU is a Ryzen 5 7600X.
I have a small issue with my Corsair 32GB DDR5 6000 Mhz RAM when using them on EXPO, and been meaning to pull the trigger on a G.Skill DDR5 64GB 6000Mhz CL30, but the timings are slighty different compared with the ones I currently have on my build.
CPU is a Ryzen 5 7600X.
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dreamstation
Member
Is there a 2025 thread yet? Can't see anything.
Anyway, I'm currently in the process of putting together a new build for my brother who doesn't know much about PC but wants a solid PC that will last a long time. His old PC is 10+ years old so will be replacing everything. Have already picked up a 9800X3D while there was stock available but god damn what is with all these different motherboards and chipsets? There are hundreds of them. What should I be looking at here? Not looking to spend more than what's required so I guess I'm just looking for any suggestions on what is considered good bang for buck. Don't need anything super fancy, so long as it can handle the 9800X3D and either a 4080 Super or 5080 depending on price and availability when they are released. Probably only need 2x m2 slots, nothing else really. Thanks.
Anyway, I'm currently in the process of putting together a new build for my brother who doesn't know much about PC but wants a solid PC that will last a long time. His old PC is 10+ years old so will be replacing everything. Have already picked up a 9800X3D while there was stock available but god damn what is with all these different motherboards and chipsets? There are hundreds of them. What should I be looking at here? Not looking to spend more than what's required so I guess I'm just looking for any suggestions on what is considered good bang for buck. Don't need anything super fancy, so long as it can handle the 9800X3D and either a 4080 Super or 5080 depending on price and availability when they are released. Probably only need 2x m2 slots, nothing else really. Thanks.
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Celcius
°Temp. member
The difference in performance will be so small that you won’t be able to tell
delirium trigger
Member
You can get one of the X870 boards for like 200 bucks or a B650 for maybe a little less. Obviously get one with wifi if you need it.
dreamstation
Member
Forgot to mention that I'm in Australia. One of the cheapest X870 boards is the Gigabyte X870 EAGLE WIFI7 for $470 delivered. Surely I can get something decent in the $300-350 range? Been a while since I've built a PC even for myself but always managed to get something decent in the mid range. Everything seems so expensive nowadays.
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Astray
Member
All I can say is look at your current and future needs for PCIE lanes etc and consider whether B850 can do it for you. There are spreadsheets comparing all the mobos on the market on Reddit and you should make use of those, just make sure you look at how the board distributes those lanes in certain situations.
I personally went with a higher-end B650 board (I think it is the Asus Strix E-E) when I did my current build and I honestly never looked back.
Perfectly stable, feature-packed and has all the PCIE lanes and USB ports I'd ever need. Will probably last me like 5-6 years if it doesn't die out somehow.
dreamstation
Member
I'd say my brother won't be upgrading for a long time anyway so whatever he gets now will be fully replaced again next time. Do you have a link to the Reddit spreadsheets? Is this on r/buildapc? Thanks.
Astray
Member
I think its this one, can't check properly because I'm on mobile rn. It should have pictures of the IOs of all the mobos:
AM5 Motherboards Sheet (X870/X670/B850/B650/B840/A620)
crazepharmacist
Member
Looking at getting a new platinum certified PSU to ready myself for the 5090.
I have a 3090 currently so I’m not too familiar with the new ATX 3.0/3.1 certifications.
I was looking at this PSU from MSI:
It looks like it released with ATX 3.0 certification but then later on they changed it be ATX 3.1 “ready”.
Is 3.1 ready the same thing as fully certified?
Or should I wait for new PSU’s that were just announced at CES to come out?
I have a 3090 currently so I’m not too familiar with the new ATX 3.0/3.1 certifications.
I was looking at this PSU from MSI:
MAG A1250GL PCIE5
It looks like it released with ATX 3.0 certification but then later on they changed it be ATX 3.1 “ready”.
Is 3.1 ready the same thing as fully certified?
Or should I wait for new PSU’s that were just announced at CES to come out?
YeulEmeralda
Linux User
I mean I bought two Dualsense for gaming on PC which is €120 right?
Yerd
Member
I am always a stickler for a quality psu. I haven't bought one since atx 2.4 was the latest thing.
I had to look up what the hell atx 3.1 ready meant for myself because I'm in the same situation you are. I couldn't really find a definitive answer on what differentiates a "certified" vs "ready" psu. I would personally wait for a certified one. That psu you specified is also only gold rated.
I've always stuck to seasonic because they are one of the main psu makers. Most psu for sale are made by some few main manufacturers and rebranded. Seasonic makes and sells their own, FSP and Superflower I think is another. I'm into SFF pcs now and one of the best is sold by corsair (which is of course rebranded) but it's such a high quality psu I don't have a problem. The corsair sf1000 is my next psu.
hinch7
Member
That MAG looks fine and fit for purpose but there are aplenty better.
And true, a good PSU can last you nearly forever. Might as well wait for the next standard at this point. I've had my EVGA G2L 750 (Superflower OEM) in my build for nearing 8 years now, in multiple builds and its been solid.
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V1LÆM
Gold Member
i'm not 100% sure but i think 3.0 is PSU that comes with the 12VHPWR cable. that's the main feature. other than that it just has some power and efficiency improvements.
3.1 i believe has the revised 12 pin connector which is now called "12V-2x6". the only difference i think is the length of pins. shorter sensing and longer conductive pins. the shorter pins will make it easier to shut down the PSU if it isn't seated properly. That is what was causing the cable to melt. It wasn't cutting out if you didn't insert it properly. 3.1 has some small changes to improve efficiency.
if you have a 3.0 then you will be fine. if you are buying a new PSU then get a 3.1 but nothing wrong with getting a 3.0 if that's the only option.
i would guess that a PSU branded as 3.0 and then gets updated to "3.1 ready/compatible" would only have the revised connector included instead of the old one. 3.1 certified would be fully compliant 3.1 PSU with new cable and efficiencies.
3.1 i believe has the revised 12 pin connector which is now called "12V-2x6". the only difference i think is the length of pins. shorter sensing and longer conductive pins. the shorter pins will make it easier to shut down the PSU if it isn't seated properly. That is what was causing the cable to melt. It wasn't cutting out if you didn't insert it properly. 3.1 has some small changes to improve efficiency.
if you have a 3.0 then you will be fine. if you are buying a new PSU then get a 3.1 but nothing wrong with getting a 3.0 if that's the only option.
i would guess that a PSU branded as 3.0 and then gets updated to "3.1 ready/compatible" would only have the revised connector included instead of the old one. 3.1 certified would be fully compliant 3.1 PSU with new cable and efficiencies.
I had my EVGA 750W G2 for 8 years. It was rock solid and never had any issues. The only reason I don't have it is because I needed a more powerful PSU. Well, I might have been fine with 750W when upgrading to my 4080 but I decided just to upgrade anyway as I needed the new cable and didn't want to use an adapter.
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V1LÆM
Gold Member
going to be building a PC for a family member. i plan on getting a 5090 so will give them my 4080. so i'll be building it around that. will also be giving them my 1440p 144hz monitor, Fractal case, and CPU cooler.
I just need a CPU, motherboard, RAM, SSD, and PSU.
We don't really have a specific budget in mind but want to keep it low as possible. Just really need something that will not bottleneck a 4080.
Right now I am looking at:
AMD 9700X
MSI B650 Tomahawk Wifi or MSI B650 Gaming Plus Wifi,
32GB DDR5 6000 RAM
1TB WD SN770 or SN850X
Seasonic 850W Focus GX 3.1
Does that seem good?
I could maybe shave £20 off the PSU if 750W is fine but I don't like cheaping out on PSU.
I wouldn't build a system with 16GB. Plus, the PC will be getting used for gaming and video editing.
Not sure if there is any reason to get a B850 board over B650.
Would love to get a 7800X3D or 9800X3D but that's going to add £170-240 over the 9700X. I was also looking at the 7600X3D but can't seem to find any in stock. I'll keep my eye out for it as I won't be building for another month or so. If I decided to upgrade to a 9950X3D then I'll throw in my 7950X3D instead. Same goes for PSU. If I decide to get a more powerful PSU for the 5090 then I'll use my current PSU.
Definitely going to need motherboard, RAM, and SSD though. I don't have any spare of those.
I just need a CPU, motherboard, RAM, SSD, and PSU.
We don't really have a specific budget in mind but want to keep it low as possible. Just really need something that will not bottleneck a 4080.
Right now I am looking at:
AMD 9700X
MSI B650 Tomahawk Wifi or MSI B650 Gaming Plus Wifi,
32GB DDR5 6000 RAM
1TB WD SN770 or SN850X
Seasonic 850W Focus GX 3.1
Does that seem good?
I could maybe shave £20 off the PSU if 750W is fine but I don't like cheaping out on PSU.
I wouldn't build a system with 16GB. Plus, the PC will be getting used for gaming and video editing.
Not sure if there is any reason to get a B850 board over B650.
Would love to get a 7800X3D or 9800X3D but that's going to add £170-240 over the 9700X. I was also looking at the 7600X3D but can't seem to find any in stock. I'll keep my eye out for it as I won't be building for another month or so. If I decided to upgrade to a 9950X3D then I'll throw in my 7950X3D instead. Same goes for PSU. If I decide to get a more powerful PSU for the 5090 then I'll use my current PSU.
Definitely going to need motherboard, RAM, and SSD though. I don't have any spare of those.
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hinch7
Member
Nice yeah don't really feel the need to upgrade just yet otherwise I would've swapped it out. I only really stick to mid range GPU's because the heat dumped into the room gets quite uncomfortable (4070Ti undervolted to run at ~170-180W max).
With your build though and a 4080, then yeah I would probably go that way. I might be swayed into a new one when I get my 5070Ti though... or even a 9070 XT depending on reviews lol.
V1LÆM
Gold Member
I undervolted my 4080 when I got it. I think i saw up to 70W decrease in power consumption. Can't remember what stock temperatures were like. They weren't bad.... much better than my 2080 FE but definitely dropped a good few degrees
I'll have to undervolt the 5090. I really hope 1000W is enough for my system. Nvidia recommend 1000W and I've seen some places say 950W so I should be fine. I might also update my CPU so need to think of that too.
Bumblebeetuna
Member
I am looking to build a new PC for my middle son, he is using one I built for myself in 2015. It is struggling to run some games he wants to play, mainly Helldivers 2. I looked over the OP, here is what I have:
CPU - Ryzen 7 7700X + some water cooler I found with good reviews
MOBO - ASRock 650BM
RAM - Crucial Classic 32GB DDR5 (4x8)
SSD - 1TB Teamgroup
GPU - ZODAC Gaming RTX4070
Case - Phanteks Pro mid case I found with good reviews
PSU - be quiet 750W 80+ Gold
The GPU says some weird Spiderverse shit on PCPartpicker, idk what that’s about but the specs are the same. Does this seem good? I dont keep up with hardware much and idk how old the info in the OP is. Seems like it’ll run me around $1300. Most I have ever spent on a PC.
CPU - Ryzen 7 7700X + some water cooler I found with good reviews
MOBO - ASRock 650BM
RAM - Crucial Classic 32GB DDR5 (4x8)
SSD - 1TB Teamgroup
GPU - ZODAC Gaming RTX4070
Case - Phanteks Pro mid case I found with good reviews
PSU - be quiet 750W 80+ Gold
The GPU says some weird Spiderverse shit on PCPartpicker, idk what that’s about but the specs are the same. Does this seem good? I dont keep up with hardware much and idk how old the info in the OP is. Seems like it’ll run me around $1300. Most I have ever spent on a PC.
crazepharmacist
Member
I found one by Corsair that is formally certified.
The HX1200i.
HX1200i Fully Modular Ultra-Low Noise Platinum ATX 1200 Watt PC Power Supply
CORSAIR HXi Series Fully Modular Ultra-Low Noise Power Supplies with ATX 3.1 and PCIe 5.1 use the highest quality components to deliver 80 PLUS Platinum efficient power.
www.corsair.com
And it's platinum.
I think I'm going with this one.
MikeM
Member
Helldivers is surprisingly heavy. I run a 7600x and a 7900xt and I can’t get it to 120fps locked with upscaling. I hover around 80-90 with optimized settings. Game is a blast though.
I like the build but go with 2x 16GB RAM for the 32GB number. 4x8 GB does not always play nice with boards. Also, aim for 6000mhz cl30 to match the infinity cache on AMD CPUs and not lose frames due to memory speeds.
GPU wise- can you up to a 4070super? Whats the resolution, target frames etc?
Yerd
Member
I'm sure it's fine. Don't let my corsair pick be an influence though. The one I'm aiming for is for SFF(small form factor) pcs. They have a great track record in that lane and I believe well reviewed on the new one I'm aiming for too. I have no idea about their normal size PSUs.I found one by Corsair that is formally certified.
The HX1200i.
HX1200i Fully Modular Ultra-Low Noise Platinum ATX 1200 Watt PC Power Supply
CORSAIR HXi Series Fully Modular Ultra-Low Noise Power Supplies with ATX 3.1 and PCIe 5.1 use the highest quality components to deliver 80 PLUS Platinum efficient power.
And it's platinum.
I think I'm going with this one.
metareferential
Member
I've built it today, my 3090 fits perfectly, and there's even some room to spare. The 5090 should fit easily.I’m hoping to buy a 5090 FE. Hopefully it’s not too difficult to get one…
Will that case even fit a 5090?? Have you checked the dimensions?
Edit: nvm it should fit
The 9800x3d is still in back-order, so for the time being I'm on a 7700x which will be returned once I get the other cpu.
I like this little case. Not much room for cable management, but you see the inside anyway, so.
Celcius
°Temp. member
It's wild that it's now 2 months after launch and it's still constantly sold out.
I'd expect that for videocards but hadn't noticed this for CPUs before. The demand must be insane.
TheShocker
Member
I bought a prebuilt from Microcenter at the end of October. It was one of their Powerspec models.
Came with a:
i9-14900kf
64GB of DDR5/6000 memory
Gigabyte RTX 4090
1000w PS
And a 2TB ssd
I ended up adding two additional ssd drives just to have adequate storage.
And I’m using a 32in 4k OLED.
This was the first PC I’ve had since 2004 and I must say, I have been extremely happy with the purchase.
So much so that I’m already thinking about how I can upgrade my current machine and get more out of it. Welcome to PC gaming I guess.
Came with a:
i9-14900kf
64GB of DDR5/6000 memory
Gigabyte RTX 4090
1000w PS
And a 2TB ssd
I ended up adding two additional ssd drives just to have adequate storage.
And I’m using a 32in 4k OLED.
This was the first PC I’ve had since 2004 and I must say, I have been extremely happy with the purchase.
So much so that I’m already thinking about how I can upgrade my current machine and get more out of it. Welcome to PC gaming I guess.
analog_future
Resident Crybaby
How does this entry level gaming PC look for my 11-year-old kid? They currently play on an Xbox Series S, but it's starting to show it's age and I want to get away from having to pay a monthly fee for them to play online.
Will probably go with Bazzite as the OS to have as simple/console-esque of an experience as I can get.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($125.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Prime B450M-A II Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($46.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: MSI SPATIUM M480 PRO 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: XFX Speedster SWFT 210 Core Radeon RX 7600 8 GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg Sellers)
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($36.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GX2 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($56.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $680.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-01-15 10:41 EST-0500
Will probably go with Bazzite as the OS to have as simple/console-esque of an experience as I can get.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($125.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Prime B450M-A II Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($46.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: MSI SPATIUM M480 PRO 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: XFX Speedster SWFT 210 Core Radeon RX 7600 8 GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg Sellers)
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($36.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GX2 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($56.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $680.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-01-15 10:41 EST-0500
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64gigabyteram
Reverse groomer.
>entry level
>looks the same as my current pc
looks good, shockingly cheap price too.
Try replacing that B450 with a B550 or higher- PCIE gen 4 helps performance
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analog_future
Resident Crybaby
>entry level
>looks the same as my current pc
looks good, shockingly cheap price too.
Try replacing that B450 with a B550 or higher- PCIE gen 4 helps performance
Thanks for the tip! Also trying to see if I can nab an Arc B570/B580 instead of the 7600 for the GPU. But they're really hard to find.
So I think it's probably time for a new CPU but unsure if I should just wait to do a full build.
I'm currently running a 3080TI FE but paired with a 10600k. If I were to jump on a 9800x3d and keep my current card, how much of a bump would you all expect to see in more graphically intense games like CP2077? I can't really tell how much I'm being bottlenecked by my CPU, I imagine it's not negligible though.
I'm currently running a 3080TI FE but paired with a 10600k. If I were to jump on a 9800x3d and keep my current card, how much of a bump would you all expect to see in more graphically intense games like CP2077? I can't really tell how much I'm being bottlenecked by my CPU, I imagine it's not negligible though.
Celcius
°Temp. member
I recently upgraded from a 10700K to a 9800X3D and I use an RTX 3090. In cpu benchmarks and when gaming at 1080p or 720p I see HUGE gains, like 60-80%. But when gaming at 4K I see no difference. I mainly wanted to be ready for later on whenever I can eventually get an RTX 5090 and try some high refresh rate gaming (currently I have a 4K 60hz monitor).
Your cpu only has 6 cores though so upgrading may make more of a difference for you in modern demanding games, or if you game at a lower resolution than I do.
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Interesting! I'm at 1440p so somewhere in the middle, but that makes sense.
Thanks for the reply, nice to hear from someone with a similar upgrade path.
Soodanim
Gold Member
Just impulse ordered 2 of these because they're nearly throwaway price. Did I make a huge mistake? I can always cancel/return.
It will be nice to move up to 1440p/180hz, and it will be nice to be able to replace my TN monitor that is in vertical orientation (horrible viewing angles). Not fussed about HDR so if it isn't fantastic then so be it.
DownLikeBCPowder
Member
Hai guys - I'm currently using a 1080 ti GPU. I'm sad now because I expected it to last a bit longer, but seeing it listed as the minimum for KCD II, for example, lets me know that it's time to go a little higher. What's a good and functional budget card (2-400 USD) out there? Follow up and potentially unrelated, what would - for example - be the most cost effective card that could run something like KCD II on "max"?
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Guardian Monkey
Member
A 1080ti should be fine 60@1440p m/high. For a card 8 years old that’s damn near GOAT level.
DownLikeBCPowder
Member
Hmm, oops. I was looking on Steam and must have read "1060" as "1080".A 1080ti should be fine 60@1440p m/high. For a card 8 years old that’s damn near GOAT level.
Still though, I'd like to know so I can see if it's worth doing. My last GPU lasted me about 10 years, but I also wasn't typically trying to play much of anything new.
64gigabyteram
Reverse groomer.
wait till the 5070 comes out then scour ebay for used 4070s, they will probably drop down to that price (i hope.....)
otherwise, your best bet is an AMD. 7700xt gets 1.5x to twice the FPS of 1080ti in most games and can be had for 400 bucks
TheChumpNation
Member
Not sure if this is the right thread, but I'm having quite an issue with my PC and am at my wits end.
The issue I'm having is that wifi speeds on my PC take a nosedive after a minute or two into the ~50kbps range. Sometimes speeds hang out at 2/3 mbps. On my phone, laptop and everything else, with the same distance to router, I get 200-250mbps down. The weirdest part is that when the display goes to sleep, wifi speeds pick back up to the 200-250mbps range. So if I'm downloading a game for example it will download at miniscule speeds while the display is active, but once it goes to sleep the speeds (along with the fans) ramp right up.
This was happening with the motherboard's stock Wifi adapter, so I bought an ASUS PCE-AX3000 card to see if that would fix things but it made no difference whatsoever.
I've tried a clean re-install of windows, same issue. For a few minutes I had speeds in the 200mbps range, but that quickly deteriorated into the same situation I was in previously. Also rebooted the router multiple times, same results (a couple minutes at best of normal speeds, and then they nosedive).
Specs are
Gigabyte B550-UD AC motherboard
Ryzen 7 5800x CPU
Nvidia (Asus) 4070
32GB DDR4 RAM
Windows 11
I've also had some limited bluetooth issues which might stem from the same place. Not sure. Apologies if I'm in the wrong thread.
The issue I'm having is that wifi speeds on my PC take a nosedive after a minute or two into the ~50kbps range. Sometimes speeds hang out at 2/3 mbps. On my phone, laptop and everything else, with the same distance to router, I get 200-250mbps down. The weirdest part is that when the display goes to sleep, wifi speeds pick back up to the 200-250mbps range. So if I'm downloading a game for example it will download at miniscule speeds while the display is active, but once it goes to sleep the speeds (along with the fans) ramp right up.
This was happening with the motherboard's stock Wifi adapter, so I bought an ASUS PCE-AX3000 card to see if that would fix things but it made no difference whatsoever.
I've tried a clean re-install of windows, same issue. For a few minutes I had speeds in the 200mbps range, but that quickly deteriorated into the same situation I was in previously. Also rebooted the router multiple times, same results (a couple minutes at best of normal speeds, and then they nosedive).
Specs are
Gigabyte B550-UD AC motherboard
Ryzen 7 5800x CPU
Nvidia (Asus) 4070
32GB DDR4 RAM
Windows 11
I've also had some limited bluetooth issues which might stem from the same place. Not sure. Apologies if I'm in the wrong thread.
Some sort of QoS setting in the router or motherboard software or whatever maybe? Go into the router web interface and see if you find something like that active.
TheChumpNation
Member
I tried playing with settings in the router web interface but all I managed to accomplish was making things marginally worse. I didn't see anything that stood out as "oh there's the issue" but I'm not the most computer-literate person so that may not mean much.
I'm not sure how to get into or address motherboard software, but I'm absolutely willing to try.
Soodanim
Gold Member
Motherboard software is the BIOS. When you first turn on your computer you get a prompt to press a key to enter it. Perhaps in there you will find some sort of power saving setting. I would do some googling if you aren't sure about settings.
Have you googled a description of your issue? It's an odd one but someone must have encountered it before
TheChumpNation
Member
I have done a bunch of googling, reddit searching etc and haven't seen anyone with the same issue. Maybe my google-fu skills are lacking or it's just a weird issue to describe, but yeah I haven't been able to find any help from someone with the same issue thus far.
Yerd
Member
Lookup the issue with your specific router. If you tried a new adapter then that is pointing to router or something else.
Have you tried a wired connection or wifi analyzer type app? Download an app on your phone to determine the best band and channel for your pc location. I know that's probably not the solution to this, but still helps. There is something throttling your speed. A setting most likely.
When you did a fresh win install did you try the speed before installing any other apps that could interfere?
Have you tried a wired connection or wifi analyzer type app? Download an app on your phone to determine the best band and channel for your pc location. I know that's probably not the solution to this, but still helps. There is something throttling your speed. A setting most likely.
When you did a fresh win install did you try the speed before installing any other apps that could interfere?
Yerd
Member
What settings did you change?
TitanNut88
Member
I will post my doubt again:
I currently have the following build and I have a 1440p 165Hz monitor as of now.:
- Intel Core i9-10900K
- Asus ROG STRIX Z490-E GAMING ATX LGA1200
- G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16
- ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME SSD
- Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 3080 10GB
- be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case
- Corsair RM850 (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
I don’t know why but it struggles with MSFS2024 so I was thinking on a new build similar to this one:
- AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
- ASRock X870E Taichi Lite EATX AM5 Motherboard
- Acer Predator Vesta II RGB DDR5 6000MHz 64GB 2x32GB CL30 Plata
- Gigabyte GeForce RTX 5080 Gaming OC GDDR7 DLSS 4 (I cannot justify the overprice of almost €1,270.00 for a Gigabyte AORUS GeForce RTX 5090 Master)
- Acer Predator GM7 2TB Disc SSD 7400MB/S NVMe PCIe 4.0 M.2 Gen4
- Corsair HX1000i 1000W 80 Plus Platinum Modular or Corsair HX1200i 1200W 80 Plus Platinum Modular
- NZXT H7 Flow 2024 Cristal Tempered USB 3.2
- Be Quiet! Pure Loop 2
- NZXT F280 RGB Core (is this needed?)
I'm doubting on whether going for a new build or upgrading the CPU, GPU and RAM of the existing one. If I go for the new build, is it a balanced one?
I currently have the following build and I have a 1440p 165Hz monitor as of now.:
- Intel Core i9-10900K
- Asus ROG STRIX Z490-E GAMING ATX LGA1200
- G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16
- ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME SSD
- Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 3080 10GB
- be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case
- Corsair RM850 (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
I don’t know why but it struggles with MSFS2024 so I was thinking on a new build similar to this one:
- AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
- ASRock X870E Taichi Lite EATX AM5 Motherboard
- Acer Predator Vesta II RGB DDR5 6000MHz 64GB 2x32GB CL30 Plata
- Gigabyte GeForce RTX 5080 Gaming OC GDDR7 DLSS 4 (I cannot justify the overprice of almost €1,270.00 for a Gigabyte AORUS GeForce RTX 5090 Master)
- Acer Predator GM7 2TB Disc SSD 7400MB/S NVMe PCIe 4.0 M.2 Gen4
- Corsair HX1000i 1000W 80 Plus Platinum Modular or Corsair HX1200i 1200W 80 Plus Platinum Modular
- NZXT H7 Flow 2024 Cristal Tempered USB 3.2
- Be Quiet! Pure Loop 2
- NZXT F280 RGB Core (is this needed?)
I'm doubting on whether going for a new build or upgrading the CPU, GPU and RAM of the existing one. If I go for the new build, is it a balanced one?
Last edited:
Kilau
Gold Member
Main build is good, the Taichi boards are great just make sure your case fits an EATX. I went with a 1200w on my PSU with a 5090 and it’s more than the minimum. I can’t comment on RGB, I hate that stuff.
Soodanim
Gold Member
When you run an overlay what seems to be the bottleneck?
TheChumpNation
Member
I haven't tried a wired connection yet, it's a pain to do because of the router's location but I will try that tonight. I had tried to use a wifi analyzer app on my phone, which shows my 5ghz network at around - 50 to - 60.
When I did the fresh install, I ran a speedtest using fast.com with Edge and I got 220mbps. A few minutes later I'd installed chrome, and the speeds have dropped. I'm not sure whether the speeds dropped the way they were doing anyways, or if somehow installing chrome is the issue? I have restarted the PC a couple times and only run Edge to do a speedtest, and the speeds were very low. THe only two programs I've installed since the fresh system install are Steam and Chrome.
I'd tried to change some of the WiFi settings, so changing from "auto" channel to specific ones, trying the "low" vs "high" setting on the 5ghz network, changing from a/n/ac to n/ac etc. I changed everything back to what I'd found it as - nothing seemed to work in any case but as you can probably tell I don't really know what I'm doing.