KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Does anyone know if input lag testing at 4k has been done by anyone else outside or rtings?

They peg 4k at 4:4:4 to be 37ms but from the comments around that it looks like they are getting that in PC mode, im wordering if it is different in game mode?
 
Ive noticed that when my tv is turned on and then i turn my ps4 on it automatically switches the source to the ps4 input... is there a way to stop this? Id rather manually change it.

Also i asked a few times yesterday but am still unclear about what the actual input lag is.

Can someone please tell me what the input lag is when playing non hdr games and then playing hdr games?

Non hdr = 20ms
Hdr = 21ms

Is that correct?
 
Aztechnology said:
Man this TV is breathing some great life into my old games.



I need to replace this bias lighting, got it because it was supposed to be 6500k but the color that says it's 6500k isn't even close. it's much whiter in the image, but it still has a blueish tint.
Click to expand...

Does the ks8000 upscale non pro games to 4k? Or is the pro doing it?
 
If you force RGB full and set hdmi black level to full won't this pretty much write off the PS4 for Blurays? (make them look washed out).
 
Hostile_18 said:
If you force RGB full and set hdmi black level to full won't this pretty much write off the PS4 for Blurays? (make them look washed out).
Click to expand...

For blurays you would want auto/auto or low/limited.

I have a separate blu-ray player on a different source so i just keep my ps4 on full/normal at all times.
 
noomi said:
Ive noticed that when my tv is turned on and then i turn my ps4 on it automatically switches the source to the ps4 input... is there a way to stop this? Id rather manually change it.

Also i asked a few times yesterday but am still unclear about what the actual input lag is.

Can someone please tell me what the input lag is when playing non hdr games and then playing hdr games?

Non hdr = 20ms
Hdr = 21ms

Is that correct?
Click to expand...

There is a setting on the PS4 itself to disable HDMI-CEC or something like that, should do the trick. Its under system settings i believe. I had to disable it because remote play was turning on my tv.

Those lag figures are about right (tho i think reversed so hdr mode is the quicker one due to how it is measured, in hdr the luminosity threshold of the measuring sensor is reached slightly quicker). It is unclear if these figures are only applicable in yuv420 mode however.
 
Steve152 said:
Hi

I received my KS7000 (UK) yesterday and although I didn't have much time did some testing with my PS4. The TV looks great however I kept getting dropouts where the screen turns black for a second.

Didn't have time last night to troubleshoot. Has anyone else had this issue? TV is on firmware 1150.7 and the PS4 on 4.06. This is the only thing I have found regarding the issue:

http://community.eu.playstation.com/t5/PS4-Support/PS4-Pro-random-black-screen-dropouts/m-p/24693423

I'm not at home at the moment to test. I just haven't seen anyone elese mention dropouts in this (very extensive!) thread.
Click to expand...

I get this on my original PS4 and 6 year old HDTV. I've just really lived with it over the years. Don't know what the cause it. Not a big issue but still an annoyance when it happens.
 
ShadowRunner said:
There is a setting on the PS4 itself to disable HDMI-CEC or something like that, should do the trick. Its under system settings i believe. I had to disable it because remote play was turning on my tv.

Those lag figures are about right (tho i think reversed so hdr mode is the quicker one due to how it is measured, in hdr the luminosity threshold of the measuring sensor is reached slightly quicker). It is unclear if these figures are only applicable in yuv420 mode however.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

I think I found it, under system settings. Its called HDMI Device Link? Oddly enough mime was already disabled.... but it still seems to turn my tv on and swith the input as well. Is there an option for this on the TV itself?

*edit*

Seems that toggling the option on and then off again fixed it :p
 
noomi said:
Thanks for the reply.

I think I found it, under system settings. Its called HDMI Device Link? Oddly enough mime was already disabled.... but it still seems to turn my tv on and swith the input as well. Is there an option for this on the TV itself?

*edit*

Seems that toggling the option on and then off again fixed it :p
Click to expand...


Hmm, might need to toggle it myself as I turned it on and off once and it didn't fix it.
 
noomi said:
Thanks for the reply.

I think I found it, under system settings. Its called HDMI Device Link? Oddly enough mime was already disabled.... but it still seems to turn my tv on and swith the input as well. Is there an option for this on the TV itself?

*edit*

Seems that toggling the option on and then off again fixed it :p
Click to expand...

Weird, did you do a system transfer to pro? Am thinking some settings may not have applied properly
 
I just got mine delivered today and it looks fucking awesome. I was worried that I may not see the benefit of HDR since I am slightly colour blind, but it is amazing, it actually seems to make reds and greens a lot more vibrant than what they seem in real life. I was pretty floored by the opening 10 minutes of The Grand Tour.

With that said, I haven't yet refined any of the settings, is there a general consensus on what the optimum settings are, or is it down to individual preference?
 
I played the first prison level of Uncharted 4 and was so impressed when you come up the stairs from solitary and the game like blows out the screen with HDR. It's so neat.

I don't like that the TV is like OMG ITS HDR!!! though.
 
noomi said:
Just checkes my box and my panel is AA02, awww yissss.

Looks like I lucked out on the panel lottery :F
Click to expand...

Can you explain this? Not aware their was a panel lottery.

Is there a way to check this without the original box? I tossed that thing a while ago.
 
Trojan said:
Can you explain this? Not aware their was a panel lottery.

Is there a way to check this without the original box? I tossed that thing a while ago.
Click to expand...

AA02 panels have been found to have very uniform blacks across the screen and little-to-no light bleed.

If blacks across the screen don't have any splotchiness, no lighter areas of dark grey, you're probably good. It'll be easy to notice if it's not uniform.

edit: I imagine the purchase source has something to do with it. Mine from Best Buy had an AA02 panel.
 
Aztechnology said:
This is for my PC so I have it at 8 bit w/RGB . Darker room with only ambient lighting, have not done a full calibration of my set yet.

Game mode

Backlight 10
Brightness 45
Contrast 100
Sharpness 15 (I like a little extra sharpening, I wouldn't go above 20ish though)
color 50
Smart LED High
HDMI black level is normal, PC range set to full
gamma 0
color space native.

Basically the same settings as most others in the thread. I think it's just the pictures my phone takes with the Galaxy S7 edge, make things pop a little more than they should as it's not able to actually represent the color space here.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That's actually really close to what I use for just general viewing and gaming on the One S. I have the backlight at 8 and color space set to auto though.
 
FarFromAnyGame said:
HDR mode will automatically turn on when it detects HDR signal while in game mode but you'll have to manually turn the backlight to 20.

HDR+ IS NOT HDR. DO NOT USE IT.
Click to expand...

Yeah I had that on with the dynamic contrast and was getting weird crushed blacks. Turned it that stuff off and switched off that mode once I learned about that in here.
 
SuperEpicMan said:
Game mode is switched off and it was greyed out, but I changed it to HDR+ and it lets me change more settings.

Basically I was following the settings in the OP with regards to the Colour Space.
Click to expand...

Don't use HDR+, turn off that mode and use movie mode to change whichever settings you are trying. For real HDR, HDMI UHD Color needs to be enabled on the HDMI port you are using and obviously HDR content. Game mode disables stuff like Auto Motion, film mode and others, that's why it's greyed out.

If you use game mode, there is an inconvenience where you have to manually change the backlight to 20 when viewing HDR content and back down to whichever you want when not using HDR. Movie mode automatically adjusts but has higher than average lag
 
I'm on a 65KS8000 and PS4 Pro and the game looks splendid in the 4K resolution, so much details.

However, I might have an issue in HDR. I started playing in HDR and thought it looked pretty good, but my friend suggested we looked without HDR, so we turned it off in the PS4 system menu. With HDR off, it looked so much more vibrant, all the colors were much more brighter and impressive, we were blown away at how pretty/vibrant it looked.

Also The default menu PS4 menu looked also much more "blue"/bright with HDR turned off.

So I come here to ask, has anyone experienced this? Is it a problem with the automatic setting/full/auto/something else? Is it intended that it is less vibrant so actual flashes of light/real vibrant color can shine more?

TV/PS4 Settings:
PS4 Pro current settings: All on auto, TV is getting 3840x2160 UHD and HDR signal when it is on.
TV settings:
HDR: Backlight 20, Brightness 45, Contrast 100, Sharpness 0, Color/Tint defualt, Black Level Auto, Dynamic Constrat Off, UHD color on, Color space Native.
Non-HDR: Backlight 12, same as above for the rest.

Thanks for any help, I also posted in the ratchet thread, since it might be a ratchet specific issue.
 
Haines said:
Color space auto.

Not native
Click to expand...

Might have been set to auto, it was the only setting it was not 100% sure if I remember correctly. Will give it a try tonight, thanks for the input (and sorry for you loss of your tv, let me know if you need access to perks at work)
 
noomi said:
For blurays you would want auto/auto or low/limited.

I have a separate blu-ray player on a different source so i just keep my ps4 on full/normal at all times.
Click to expand...

You can leave Limited/Low or Auto/Auto for ALL sources.

I wish they would change the name "Full RGB" to "PC RGB" (Microsoft actually did this) because people think they are being limited or losing something. You aren't losing anything with Limited RGB and it is the proper setting for TVs.

You aren't getting better colors or better range with Full. If you are set to Limited or Auto on your TV and PS4 and playing a video game, it knows to convert the range to 16-255. It will look identical to Full/Full.

All you are doing is telling your PS4 and TV where black begins. At either 0 or 16. PCs use 0-255 and should be the only time you need "Full". Again, not "better", just a reference point to tell the display where black begins.
 
Simbo said:
So what am I actually looking for on the box re what panel I have?
Click to expand...

This information, although both panels are solid.

D72Trql.png
 
dcx4610 said:
You can leave Limited/Low or Auto/Auto for ALL sources.

I wish they would change the name "Full RGB" to "PC RGB" (Microsoft actually did this) because people think they are being limited or losing something. You aren't losing anything with Limited RGB and it is the proper setting for TVs.

You aren't getting better colors or better range with Full. If you are set to Limited or Auto on your TV and PS4 and playing a video game, it knows to convert the range to 16-255. It will look identical to Full/Full.

All you are doing is telling your PS4 and TV where black begins. At either 0 or 16. PCs use 0-255 and should be the only time you need "Full". Again, not "better", just a reference point to tell the display where black begins.
Click to expand...

I agree, and would like to add food for thought:

Typical luminance banding is seen in very dark areas, and is exacerbated by a low bit depth. YUV limited (and 16-255) does decrease the dynamic range, but doing so decreases the gradient step size where it matter most- the darkest parts of the image..

Limited isn't as bad as people think
 
knacklover said:
I'm on a 65KS8000 and PS4 Pro and the game looks splendid in the 4K resolution, so much details.

However, I might have an issue in HDR. I started playing in HDR and thought it looked pretty good, but my friend suggested we looked without HDR, so we turned it off in the PS4 system menu. With HDR off, it looked so much more vibrant, all the colors were much more brighter and impressive, we were blown away at how pretty/vibrant it looked.

Also The default menu PS4 menu looked also much more "blue"/bright with HDR turned off.

So I come here to ask, has anyone experienced this? Is it a problem with the automatic setting/full/auto/something else? Is it intended that it is less vibrant so actual flashes of light/real vibrant color can shine more?

TV/PS4 Settings:
PS4 Pro current settings: All on auto, TV is getting 3840x2160 UHD and HDR signal when it is on.
TV settings:
HDR: Backlight 20, Brightness 45, Contrast 100, Sharpness 0, Color/Tint defualt, Black Level Auto, Dynamic Constrat Off, UHD color on, Color space Native.
Non-HDR: Backlight 12, same as above for the rest.

Thanks for any help, I also posted in the ratchet thread, since it might be a ratchet specific issue.
Click to expand...

Agreed with Haines. Sounds like your color space was set to Native.

On the TV, every preset has its on settings and when you play HDR content, it has its own as well.

The default HDR settings try to wow you by maxing out the backlight, contrast and a whole bunch of other features. It also sets the color range to "Native" which over-saturates the colors to make them pop more.

Go to the regular PS4 menu and switch between Auto and Native and you'll see the blue background go to a deeper and brighter blue. I know it may be tempting to keep it on Native but Auto is the more proper choice because Native over-saturates and causes a loss in color range.
 
dcx4610 said:
All you are doing is telling your PS4 and TV where black begins. At either 0 or 16. PCs use 0-255 and should be the only time you need "Full". Again, not "better", just a reference point to tell the display where black begins.
Click to expand...

Help me understand. Why wouldn't you want black to begin at 0, with an extra 16 steps?

And aren't games developed on PC monitors displaying 0-255?
 
knacklover said:
This information, although both panels are solid.

D72Trql.png
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I'm in the UK and mine simply says 'Version: 03'. Wonder what that means?

Also some of the UK forums have been stirred up as a Samsung rep on their Facebook page has stated that this TV isn't true 10 bit. Just 8 bit + dithering!

EDIT: They've now cleared it up and confirmed that it has a 10 bit panel.
 
So after messing around with settings this is what i decided upon. I might reduce sharpness to zero on game mode. It's at the default 50 right now.

Picture Setting: Movie
Backlight: 12
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint (g/r): G50 R50
Digital clean: Off
Auto motion plus: Off
Smart LED: High
HDMI black level: Auto
Dynamic contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm1
Color Space: Native (This makes red look less washed out)

Game mode
Backlight: 20
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 50(it should be zero no?)
Color: 50
Smart LED: High
HDMI black level: Auto
Color tone: Standard
Color space: Native
 
I highly recommend you guys check out Netflix doc "Tales by Light" in 4K.

The doc is entirely shot in 4K.. and it looks absolutely jaw-dropping amazing on this tv. Probably one of the best 4K I've seen so far. And a good show to show off how amazing this tv is.
 
dcx4610 said:
Agreed with Haines. Sounds like your color space was set to Native.

On the TV, every preset has its on settings and when you play HDR content, it has its own as well.

The default HDR settings try to wow you by maxing out the backlight, contrast and a whole bunch of other features. It also sets the color range to "Native" which over-saturates the colors to make them pop more.

Go to the regular PS4 menu and switch between Auto and Native and you'll see the blue background go to a deeper and brighter blue. I know it may be tempting to keep it on Native but Auto is the more proper choice because Native over-saturates and causes a loss in color range.
Click to expand...

Okay, will def. give that a try tonight. The HDR games on my Xbox One S did wow me, so did Netflix and all, but for Ratchet I was wow'd by switching from HDR to non HDR...
Thanks!
 
KyleOnTheRun said:
Help me understand. Why wouldn't you want black to begin at 0, with an extra 16 steps?

And aren't games developed on PC monitors displaying 0-255?
Click to expand...

Because movies and TV shows are filmed with 16-255 RGB and unless a video game is designed exclusively for PC or with full range in mind, chances are it's the same.

If your TV is set to Full (0-255) and you are sending Limited (16-255) content to it, the TV thinks black should begin at 0 while the content is telling it to start at 16. Depending on which source you have set wrong, you are either going to get a washed out picture or an overly dark image with crushed blacks.

TVs are meant to be set to Limited as most content sent is Limited. Full Range is designed specifically for PCs and calibration in mind. If you set your TV to Full you have to make sure you set your PS4 and other devices to Full or Auto. Doing so doesn't mean you are getting better color or range though. You are just telling black where to begin on the RGB color range. If you have your TV set to Limited or Auto and the PS4 set to Limited or Auto, it will properly display TV and movies and if it happens to receive a source that uses Full Range, it knows to convert it to 16-255.

Your best bet is the Auto setting on the PS4 and Auto on the Samsung. Doing this sets it to Limited range which is the most compatible and least likely to cause problems with any source you run through it.
 
Anyone knows about this sony XD7005 TV? I leave in europe and it seems they still didnt updated the tv here with HDR10

Others say the TV in their forums dont have HDR even after update in US ...

Can somone comment? If this is true i will buy a the KS6300 from samsung cause its way cheaper here.
 
Devilinthiscity said:
So after messing around with settings this is what i decided upon. I might reduce sharpness to zero on game mode. It's at the default 50 right now.

Picture Setting: Movie
Backlight: 12
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint (g/r): G50 R50
Digital clean: Off
Auto motion plus: Off
Smart LED: High
HDMI black level: Auto
Dynamic contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm1
Color Space: Native (This makes red look less washed out)

Game mode
Backlight: 20
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 50(it should be zero no?)
Color: 50
Smart LED: High
HDMI black level: Auto
Color tone: Standard
Color space: Native
Click to expand...

Approved except for Smart LED and Color Space. It's personal preference but my eyes can see the blacks constantly changing with Smart LED set to High and it drives me crazy. I can't see it with Low and the blacks are still super dark.

Color space should be set to Auto unless you are viewing HDR content and want a tiny bit of extra pop. It over-saturates and you lose color range. Sharpness is personal preference but zero is zero sharpness added. I go with zero because if you look at text, it looks normal. If you increase the sharpness to 50, you start to see jaggies and distortion. Sharpness beyond zero is sharpening the image beyond what is intended.
 
dcx4610 said:
Because movies and TV shows are filmed with 16-255 RGB and unless a video game is designed exclusively for PC or with full range in mind, chances are it's the same.

If your TV is set to Full (0-255) and you are sending Limited (16-255) content to it, the TV thinks black should begin at 0 while the content is telling it to start at 16. . . .

Your best bet is the Auto setting on the PS4 and Auto on the Samsung. Doing this sets it to Limited range which is the most compatible and least likely to cause problems with any source you run through it.
Click to expand...

I think I'm getting it. I found this line from this source:

Q: Since video games use the Full RGB palette, shouldn’t I use Full RGB when playing video games and then Limited RGB for movies?

A: No. Most video games are designed using the Full RGB spectrum since they are designed on computers which use that. However, when you are playing a Full RGB game and your video game console is set to Limited, it takes this into account. The video levels are shifted from 0-255 down to 16-235 and the gamma curve is adjusted to match a TV as well. You aren’t losing anything as the system is accounting for this.
Click to expand...

I feel like this is on the very tip of my understanding. If you don't mind, since you're knowledgeable, is there a way of re-phrasing this that could make more sense? I'm having trouble interpreting "0-255 down to 16-235" as anything other than a loss of complexity. But maybe it's because values less than 16 or greater than 235 are never really present, even in a 0-255 developing environment?
 
KyleOnTheRun said:
I think I'm getting it. I found this line from this source:



I feel like this is on the very tip of my understanding. If you don't mind, since you're knowledgeable, is there a way of re-phrasing this that could make more sense? I'm having trouble interpreting "0-255 down to 16-235" as anything other than a loss of complexity. But maybe it's because values less than 16 or greater than 235 are never really present, even in a 0-255 developing environment?
Click to expand...

Think of it almost like compressing or zipping a file on a computer. The file size gets smaller but the content is the same inside. You aren't losing anything by zipping the file. you are just converting it to be read differently.

0-255 has a greater range by definition but when it is converted to 16-255 and the gamma curve is adjusted, it ends up being indistinguishable.
 
I got my replacement panel and it's an fa01 instead of aao2

Any tests or something I should look for to make sure panel is good

If it's any worse than my last I'm returning it and I need to check asap

Ugh. On the startup the remote will let me power on off but won't let me select language.

I'm going to lose my damn mind.
 
dcx4610 said:
Think of it almost like compressing or zipping a file on a computer. The file size gets smaller but the content is the same inside. You aren't losing anything by zipping the file. you are just converting it to be read differently.

0-255 has a greater range by definition but when it is converted to 16-255 and the gamma curve is adjusted, it ends up being indistinguishable.
Click to expand...

I get what your saying, but what about this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf4PgAsDzBw

Not trying to dispute what you are saying, but more-so just want to be educated on this. For years I have been under the impression that Full gave a better blacks and brightness...

All I want is the best possible PQ setting for my PS4/Samsung if that isn't Full/Normal then I want to know.
 
Haines said:
I got my replacement panel and it's an fa01 instead of aao2

Any tests or something I should look for to make sure panel is good

If it's any worse than my last I'm returning it and I need to check asap

Ugh. On the startup the remote will let me power on off but won't let me select language.

I'm going to lose my damn mind.
Click to expand...

Just checking for bleed, and uniformity on solid grey ton backgrounds. AVCHD rec 709 has some test patterns to use for that. From everything I've heard there's almost no appreciable difference between the panel types.
 
Haines said:
I got my replacement panel and it's an fa01 instead of aao2

Any tests or something I should look for to make sure panel is good

If it's any worse than my last I'm returning it and I need to check asap

Ugh. On the startup the remote will let me power on off but won't let me select language.

I'm going to lose my damn mind.
Click to expand...

I had this issue and you need to pair the remote to the TV. While pointing the remote at the TV press and hold the return button and play/pause button for 3 seconds.

You should then see a "Searching for devices" message pop-up on the screen.
 
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